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A COMPREHENSIVE COLLECTION 
OF RECIPES AND 
USEFUL LNFORNATION 
PERTAINING TO EVERY DEPARTMENT 
OF HOUSEKEEPING. 



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'^LCx-- 



rr\iley Publisf^ir^ (ompany, 



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PUBLISHERS. 



imOTO -MlORTYPt C 



COPYRIGHT 1894, BY J. B.SVILEY. COPYRIGHT U85 6Y SMILEY PUBLISHING COMPANY. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. 



(>V\' 



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TO 
ALL TH0S£ 

Who are engaged in the 

noble work of housekeeping, this 

book, which is designed to help them 

In their Labors, is Respectfully 

DEDICATED. 

1 



THIS BOOK 

Is sold by Subscription Only. Those desiring a copy, and not knowing any 
agent, should write to the publishers. 



PREFACE. 



\ I /HE following pages are the result of many years of experl- 
) I I ment, investigation and study. We have aimed to prepare 
®^^^ a work for the use of housekeepers on a more thorough and 
comprehensive plan than has been heretofore attempted. 
As the book is intended for the use of the average housekeeper, there 
is nothing in it which cannot be easily understood by any person of 
ordinary intelligence, for we have taken much pains to present the 
results of modern scientific investigations in a clear and simple way, 
avoiding, as far as possible, the use of technical terms. 

Most of the household books in current use give the processes for 
doing things merely, with no attempt to exjilain the reasons for the 
processes or the principles which underlie them. We also give, as 
clearly as possible, the most detailed directions in all our recipes, but 
we do not stop there, as we think any one can work more intelli- 
gently by understanding not only how to do a certain thing, but also 
why it is done one way rather than another, and the i^rinciples which 
underlie the process. For this reason, throughout the work, we 
systematically explain principles as well as processes. We have long 
felt that a sad defect in most cook books is their utter failure to 
explain those simple, fundamental princii^les which every cook should, 
if possible, understand. If these principles are once thoroughly 
understood the mystery and uncertainty of kitchen operations will 
vanish, and cooking will simply be adopting certain clearly under- 
stood methods to produce certain definite results, and success Mull 
always follow. 

For years we have been gathering material for this book, resulting 
in the accumulation of a great mass of recipes. These have been 
tested and culled, and in making selections our rule has been to 
choose those which were most simple and economical, because the 
book is primarily designed for the use of the masses, whose means 
are always limited, and we aim to meet their every day wants, 
although we joresent also an amjile number of more elaborate recipes 
suitable for special occasions. Our endeavor has been to make 
the collection as complete and comprehensive as jDossible, and to give 
new, choice, and welhtested recipes in every department of house- 
hold cookery, 



4 PREFACE 

The "Time Tables for Cooking," and also the "Time to Cook" 
given with recipes throughout the book, will be very convenient and 
bellyful to our readers and this is a feature which is lacking in most 
other cook books. Its prej)aration has cost us much labor. 

In the chapter on "Cake" we have adopted a new arrangement of 
the recipes, and used an excej)tionally large and clear type which for 
practical kitchen use will be . found a great convenience. The type 
used throughout the book is large, clear and new, and the ease with 
which it can be read will be appreciated by busy housewives. 

The colored plates and numerous illustrations with which the book 
is embellished have required much labor and ex^^ense, and they will 
make many of the sul)jects much clearer than any wholly verbal de- 
scrijition could possibly do. 

In preparing this work we have constantly had four main objects 
in view. (1) To secure the fullest, latest, and most reliable informa- 
tion iDossible on the subjects treated. (2) To explain processes and 
methods for saving time and labor, for the average housewife is 
sadly overworked and her time and strength are of the utmost value? 
(8) To select the best and most economical recipes; and (4) to point 
out ways to prevent waste. 

In the general deiDartment of household topics we present a more 
complete and systematic treatment of the various subjects connected 
with household management than can be found elsewhere, and the 
information therein contained will certainly be of great practical 
value to housekeepers. 

The effort of the editor has been to produce a thoroughly reliable 
and a plain and jDractical guide to housekeeping in all its branches, 
which no housewife can afford to do without. 

The book has not been written by any one individual, but many 
pens have been employed more or less in its preparation. 

The book will certainly shed much needed light on the problems 
which confront and often harass housekeepers, explain the funda- 
mental princif)les which underlie their work, and present a mass of 
recipes which will materially aid them in their labors. 

The Editoe. 



ORDER OF DEPARTMENTS. 



Table Showino: the Compar- 
ative Amount of Nutriment 

in Different Foods 7,8 

Table Showing the Compar- 
ativeAmount of Nutriment 
which 25 cents will Buy 
when Invested in Differ- 
ent Foods 9,10 

Tables of Weights and 

Measures 11 to l)j 

Time Tables for Cook- 
ing 14 to 16 

Table of Proportions. . 17 

Altering Recipes 18 

Intoxicating Liquors . . 18 

Soups 19 to 47 

Fish 48 to 81 

Shell fish 82 to 94 

Sauces for Fish, Shell- 

Fish and Meats ... 95 to 110 

Meats Ill to 164 

Beef 127 to 135 

Veal 185 to 140 

Mutton and Lamb. 140 to 143 

Pork 144 to 148 

Poultry 148 to 158 

Game 158 to 164 

Cutting up and Curing- 
Meats 165 to 175 

Hash and Croquettes 176 to 183 

Eggs 184 to 191 

Milk, Butter and 

Cheese 192 to 203 

Salads 203 to 215 

Vegetables 216 to 255 

Bread. Biscuit, etc.. .256 to 294 

Bread 256 to 272 

Biscuit 273, 274 

Buns, Rusks, Rolls, 

etc 274 to 277 

Johnny Cakes, 

Pones, etc ..277 to 279 

Gems, M u tfi n s , 

Scones, etc 280 to 283 



Bread, Biscuit, etc. 
(Continued.) 

Griddle Cakes 283 to 

Waffles 285 to 

Mushes, etc 286 to 

Toast 289, 

Sandwiches 290 to 

Pastry 295 to 

Pies 300 to 

Tarts 312 to 

Shortcakes 313 to 

Puddings and Dump- 
lings 315 to 

Doughnuts and Frit- 
ters 338 to 

Cake 346 to 

Layer Cakes 359 to 

Loaf Cakes 372 to 

Frosting and Icing 391 to 
Small Cakes, Cook- 
ies, Jumbles, 
Snaps, etc 398 to 

Desserts 409 to 

Ice Cream, Water Ices 
and Sherbets 434 to 

Home Candy Making 457 to 

Fruits and Nuts 464 to 

Fresh Fruits and 

Nuts 465 to 

Dried Fruits 473 to 

Cooked Fruits 477 to 

Compotes 485 to 

Jams, Jellies, Marma- 
lades and Preserves 488 to 

Jellies 491 to 

Marmalades 496 to 

Fruit Cheeses 499 to 

Fruit Pastes 500 to 

Jams ^ 502 to 

Preserves 505 to 

Canning Fruits, Vege- 
tables, etc 518 to 

Pickles, Catsups, Soys, 
etc 530 to 



285 
286 
289 
290 
294 
314 
311 
313 
314 

337 

345 

408 
372 
390 
398 



408 
433 

446 
463 

487 

473 

476 

485 
487 

517 

496 
499 
50D 
502 
504 
517 

529 

549 



ORDER OF DEPARTMENTS 



Pickles, Catsui)s, Soys, 
etc. (Continued.) 

Sour Pickles 581 to 540 

Sweet Pickles 540 to 544 

Spiced Fruit 544 to 545 

Catsups and Soys. . 546 to 549 

Vinegar 550 to 553 

Beverages 554 to 572 

Syrups 570 to 572 

Invalid Cookery 573 to 588 

Foreign Cookery 589 to 602 

Picnics 608 

Times When Foods 

are in Season .... 604 to 610 

Bills of Fare 611 to 628 

Garnishing Food 629 to 634 

Carving 635 to 648 

The Table and Its Ap- 
pointments 649 to 669 

Setting the Table. .649 to1557 

Table Decorations . 659 to 663 

Folding Napkins . . 663 to 669 

Household Topics. . .670 to 874 

The Kitchen, Pantry 

and Storeroom 671 to 676 

Dishwashing 676 to 678 

Knives and Forks . . . .678 to 679 
Kettles and Vessels . . 680 to 682 

Refrigerators 682 to 683 

Sinks and Drains .... 683 to 684 

Cellars 684 to 686 

The Ice = House and 

Ice 686 to 687 

Wells, Cisterns and 

Water 688 to 694 

Roofs, Doors, Walls, 

etc 694 tc 697 

Housecleaning and 

Dusting 697 to 700 



The Bedroom and Beds 700 to 702 

Ventilation 702 to 704 

Disinfectants and De- 
odorizers 704 to 711 

Floors and Floor Cov- 
erings 711 to 723 

Furniture 723 to 731 

Ivory, Stone, Rubber, 

etc, 731 to 740 

Glass, China, Earthen- 
ware, etc 741 to 746 

Lamps, Matches, etc. 74(5 to 749 
Metals and Metah ware 749 to 759 
Stoves, Fires, Chim- 
neys, etc 759 to 764 

Paint, Varnish, White- 
wash, etc 764 to 768 

Pictures and Frames . 801 to 804 
Books and Paper. . . .805 to 810 

Leather 810 to 814 

Woodenware 814 to 816 

Feathers and Hair. . .816 to 818 
Clothing and Cloth . .818 to 828 

Gloves 822,823 

Bonnets and Hats . .824 to 826 

Furs 826 to 828 

To Remove Spots and 

Stains 828 to 837 

Cements,Pastes,Glues, 

etc 837 to 843 

Mucilage and Paste 841 to 843 
Inks, Stamping Prep- 
arations, etc 843 to 846 

A few Useful Articles 846 to 848 

Insect Pests 848 to 856 

The Laundry 857 to 874 

Glossary 875 to 880 

Index 881 to 916 



TABLE SHOWING THE C03IPARATIVE AMOUNT OF NUTKIENTS IN DIFFER- 
ENT FOODS. 



The following table will show tlie comparative amount of nutrients, after evaporating 
the water, remaining in the edible portions of the more important articles of food, i.e., after 
rmnov iiig tlie refuses like bones, shell, skin, etc. Tlie nutritive value of the di lerent foods 
and the elements of which they are composed, are explained more fully elsewhere, but 
tills table will brin^' clearly before tlie eye, at a glance, the striking dilTerence m the nutri- 
tive value of different foods. In vegetables, one of their great benefits to tlie system is de- 




which is especially burdensome to poor people. 

3IEATS, ETC. 

Beef, Brisket of ■-^■■'^■™ 

Beef, Dried. ..^-.■— — ^— ^-^— ^— 

Beef, Flank of ^■^^^■■— ^— .^^^— ^^— 

Beef, Flank, Corned. 

Beef, Neck of ■ 

Beef, Ribsof ^■^_^^^^— ^— — — 

Beef, Shoulder of . . . . — ^— ^^-^— — — — 

Beef, Sirloin of ^^^n.^— ^^— ^— ^^— 

Beef, Round of -— ^" 

Beef, Liver of ■^^^^■^—i ^^— .i^— 

Beef, Heart of — ^— ^— ^^— ~^^"^^"^~™ 

Beef, Tongue of — — ^.— -i^^-^i— i^— ^— 
Veal, Shoulder of.. • 

Mutton, Breast of.. .— ^^-^■^-^■-^^"■■^^~~" 
Mutton, Flank of . . . . -.^— — ^— ^— — — — 

Mutton, Leg of —^—i — ^^— h^^^-^— 

Mutton, Neck of . . . . -i^^-— ■— ^^^■^■^^— — ^ 
Mutton, Shoulder of 

Lamb, Leg of ^^^i^,^-^.^-^-^-^^ 

Lamb, Loin of "■^^"^^^^^^^■^^^^^^"™ 

Lamb, Neck of. .... . .-^^— ^-^-^— ^^^^-^^-^™ 

Lamb, Shoulder of. . ^— ^^^^— i^^— ^-^-— - 
Pork, Shoulder roast"-^^— ^^■^^-^^■■-^^-■— ™"- 

Pork, fat, salt ■■^■^^"■'■^■~ 

Pork, smoked ham.. — .^^^i^— ^^— 

Sausage, Pork ^^— ^""""""^^^^ 

Tripe, soused ^-i-^.^— ^ 

Chicken ^^— ^^^^m— 

Turkey ^^.■■^^^^^b— ^^m— 

Eggs, Hen's — ^— ■^^■^^-" 

Bass, black 

Blue Fish 

Codfish, fresh 

Codfish, salt 

Eel, salt-water 

Flounder 

Haddock 

Haddock, smoked . . . 

Halibut, fresh 

Halibut, smoked .. 

Herring, fresh 

Mackerel, fresh 

Mackerel, salted... 

Salmon, fresh 

Sardines, canned 

Trout, brook 

Wliitefish. 

Clams 

Lobsters, fresh 

Oysters, fresh 

Shrimp 



FISH AND SHELL-FISH. 



(7) 



DAIRY PRODUCTS. 

Milk — — — i 

Butter i^_^»>i»_Ki^_i^>ii^_^^a_i^-^K 

Cheese, full cream..— ^——■—"—^^■^—^^^■^—i— ^-^— 
Cheese, skim milk. . . ^^^^■^■i^— ^^^— — ^^^^^^^-^ 
Oleomargarine ^^^^^^™^™™i«^— — iM.™Mi««i«^ 



VEGETABLES. 
Asparagus -^— 

Beans, Lima, green.— ^——^^^^—■— 
Beans, string, green.^^^— ■ 

Beans, dried — i^^^^^^^^^^— ^— i^^— ■ 

Beets — ^»— ■ 

Cabbage —•^^ 

Carrots — -^^ 

Cauliflower ^^— 

Cucumber ^™ 

Corn, sweet, green ■^^— -""^i^™^ 
Corn, sweet, canned— ^i""^^^—^^^™ 

Egg Plant ^— 

Lettuce ——^ 

Onions — ■^— 

Okra ^— ^— 

Peas, green ^^— i^-^— 

Peas, dried i— i^^B^^^a_Ba_^_— i^^^_^^_i 

Potatoes ^^^— ^^^— laa 

Potatoes, sweet ^~"— ^— ^— — "^ 

Pumpkin ^^ 

Rice 1^— ^^^^»^^^^^^^ 

Spinach ■ 

Squash __Ba> 

Turnips , ..bb^h^ 

Tomatoes ^b 

CEREALS, ETC. 

Barley, pearl .^^^^■,^_i^„^__i_a^^— ^— i 

Flour, graham — ^■^■^^^— 

Flour, entire wheat, "^—^—^^^^^ii—"———^^^ 
Flour, buckwheat.. . ^— ^^^^— ^— ^— ^^^^^— 

Flour, rye aHH^^B^^^^^^^B^^B— hh— ki 

Flour, wheat >— ^^^^_s.ai^._Ma^^^^^^^ 

Cornmeal ^•^m^m^.M^.^mmmmm^^mi^^.^.^^^m, 

Oatmeal ^— hki^^— BBaB_^ii^^.>^_a— >— ■ 

White hominy mi^^^^^mmm,m.^^^^^^mm^,m^m^m^ 

Buckwheat farina. . .■^^»— >— ^>— a^^— ^i^b^^^ 

Bread, graham m^mmm^^^m.mm^^mm,^.^m,mm„^^^ 

Bread, rye ~— ■■■^^— iii^^^_^^Da__>nn 

Bread, wheat iB>^_^^__^^^^B>i.— »— 

Boston crackers ^^^■^>^»aB^^^a^^KHa^^^i_ 

Graham crackers — — ^^— ^^— ■ 

Oatmeal crackers — ■^o^_^H»__»__i^_i,.._ 

Apples -K-_^-B__ 

Bananas m aiHBaBa^^ 

Blackberries mt^^^mm 

Cherries ^^— - 

Cocoaniits ^^^vaa^^^H 

Cranberries ^^^->»- 

Grapes k.^^__m 

Lemons a^^^— 

Peaches ^h^h^^^ 

Pineapples ^— » 

Strawberries f^^^m 

Wa^iermelon ^— ^ 

Whortleberries a^^^^i^B^ 

Walnuts Ki..i_^.__^_, 



FRUITS. 



(8) 



TABLE SHOWINO THE COMPARATIVE AMOUNT OF NUTRIMENT WHICH 
25 CENTS WILL BUY WHEN INVESTED IN DIFFERENT FOODS. 

The following table shows at a glance the comparative amount of nutriment 
which 25 cents will buy when invested in different foods at the ordinary retail 
prices in the city. In studying the table, however, the advantage of a variety in 
food should be borne in mind, as the fruits furnish the system with acids, and 
fresh vegetables furnish potash and other salts which are of' the highest value. A 
thorough knowledge of the nutritive value of foods will enable many people to 
make a material saving in their household expenses. 

MEATS, ETC. 



Beef, brisket of . . . . ___^_^^^__^____ 

Beef, dried __^^ 

Beef, fiank of ■^^—i— ■^^^_^.^^^_i— i 

Beef, neck of .^.^____ 

Beef, ribs of mmmm^^,^^^^ 

Beef, shoulder of. . •.^„_Hi._i 

Beef, sirloin of ««=__ 

Beef, round of ^_^ 

Beef, liver of ^^-.^— «- 

Beef, heart of i,^^.^— ™-««^.,^^« 

Beef, tongue of ^,,___ 

Veal, shoulder of. . .^____ 

Mutton, breast nf 

Mutton, flank of . . . ^^^^^________^^_^_^^^_ 

Mutton, leg of _^___ 

Mutton, neck of . . . . _i«^_„__^^^^^^_ 

Mutton, loin of .■.i.i^^.™™.,^ 

Mutton, shoulder n f 

Lamb, leg of — -^i^ 

Lamb, loin of ^^_^_^_ 

Lamb, neck of __„,___ 

Lamb, shoulder nf 

Pork, fresh ^^«— _™» 

Pork, fat, salt ^^^^„__.^.™i,M_a« 

Pork, smoked ha m 

Sausage, pork ^__„^^^^^^^ 

Tripe, soused ^^_ 

Chicken ^^^ 

Turkey _^^^ 

Hen's Eggs, _^^ 

FISH AND SHELL^FISH. 

Bass ^ 

Bluefish ^_ 

Cod ^_ 

Eels ^^ 

Flounder ^^ 

Haddock ^^ 

Halibut _^ 

Herring ,,_,_^_ 

Mackerel _^^ 

Perch __ 

Pickerel _ 

Salmon ^ 

Shad __ 

Snaelts ^ 

Swordfish ^ 

Trout ^ 

Whiteflsh _^_ 

Clams _ 

Crabs _ 

Oysters ^ 

Lobsters ^_ 

Shrimp ^ 



DAIRY PRODUCTS. 



Milk 

Butter 

Oleomargarine 

Cheese, full cream. 
Cheese, skim milk. 



VEGETABLES. 



Asparagus , 

Beans, lima, green . , 

Beans, dried , 

Beets , 

Cabbage 

Carrots , , 

Cauliflower , 

Cucumber , 

Corn, sweet, green. 

Lettuce , 

Onions , 

Peas, green 

Peas, dried , 

Potatoes 

Potatoes, sweet , 

Pumpkin 

Rhubarb , 

Rice 

Spinach , 

Squash 

Turnips , 

Tomatoes _ 



Apples 

Bananas 

Blackberries.. 

Cherries 

Cranberries. .. 

Dates 

Grapes 

Lemons 

Pineapples 

Strawberries. . 
Wate rmelons 



FRUITS. 



CEREALS, ETC. 



Barley, pearl 

Flour, graham 

Flour, entire wheat. 
Flour, buckwheat. _ 

Flour, rye „ 

Flour, wheat 

Cornmeal _ 

Oatmeal _ 

White hominy , 

Buckwheat farina. _ 

Bread, graham _ 

Bread, rye _ 

Bread, wheat 

Boston crackers . . . _ 
Graham crackers.. _ 
Oatmeal crackers.— 



10 



TABLES OP WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 

Notice. — The standard of measure which we have adopted in this book is the 
ordinary coffee cup, which holds }/^ pint. Where uot otherwise specified, we al- 
ways mean that by a cup. Of course the size of the cups and spoons in actual use 
vary somewhat, and extraordinary dampness or dryness of the materials will affect 
their weight, but these tables are as accurate as we can make them. In making up 
any recipe, using the same measure throughout will keep the proportions correct. 

Before measuring sugar, meal, flour, soda, salt and spices, they should be sifted. 
Materials like baking powder or mustard, which have been packed, should be 
stirred and crushed if you do not sift them. 

To get 1^ a spoonful, fill the spoon, divide it through the center lengthwise, 
and use one-iialf. To get an even spoonful of any dry material, till the spoon and 
level it off with a knife. A heaping spoonful is all it will hold. To get a spoon- 
ful, fill the spoon and shake it a'^little until it is slightly rounded on top. 

As a cup is smaller at the bottom than at the top, }-o, a cup does not mean to 
fill it Yi the way up, but a little more than that. The tin measuring cups holding 
)4, pintj and divided into fourths and thirds, are the best to use; they can be pur- 
chased at tin or hardware stores. 

Throughout the work, to save space, we drop off the " f ul " in such words as 
"cupful," "tablespoonful," etc., and write simply "cup," "tablespoon," etc. We 
always mean full measure unless we add the word "heaping," or "scant." 



COMMON ARTICLES OF FOOD. 

Almonds: — 1 cup, shelled, weighs 7 

ounces. 
Baeley: — 1 cup weighs 4 ounces; I 

tablespoon, heaped, }4, ounce. 
Bkead ckumbs, grated: — 1 cup weighs 

2 ounces. 
Butter: — 1 even cup, hard or melted, 

weighs 7 ounces; 2 /k/? cups weigh 

1 pound; a rounded tablespoon 
weighs 1 ounce; the "size of an 
egg " weighs 2 ounces. 

Citron: — 1 cup of chopped weighs 7 

ounces. 
Coffee, ground: — -4 cups weigh 1 

pound; 1 cup weighs 4 ounces; 

2 rounded tablespoons weigh 1 
ounce. 

Coknmeal: — 1 even cup weighs 43^ 
ounces; a heaping tablespoon 3^ 
ounce. 

Corn=staeoh: — 1 cup weighs 5 ounces; 
a heaping tablespoon ^^ ounce; 3 
cups equal 1 pound. 

Currants: — 1 cup, cleaned and dried, 
weighs 6 ounces. 

Dates: — 1 cup weighs }:4 pound. 

Eggs: — 10 eggs, average size (or 9 if 
very large) weigh 1 pound; 1 white 
of egg weighs about 1 ounce, and 
1 yolk about 1 ounce. 

Figs: — 1 cup weighs 3^ pound. 

Flour (wheat, well sifted always): — 1 
quart, heaped, weighs 1 pound; 
1 cup, level, weighs 4 ounces, or 6 
ounces when heaped; 4 cups equal 
1 pound or 1 quart; 1 tablespoon, 
heaped, holds 1 ounce; 1 teaspoon, 
heaped, J^ ounce. 

Lard: — Same as butter. 



COMMON ARTICLES OF FOOD -Continued 

Meat: — 1 solid cup of chopped meat 
weighs 8 ounces; a pint = l pound. 

Nutmegs: — 5 medium sized nutmegs 
weigh 1 ounce. 

Prunes: — 1 cup weighs % pound. 

Raisins: — 1 cup weighs % pound, or 8 
ounces. 

Rioe: — 1 cup, heaped, weighs 8 ounces; 
1 tablespoon, heaped, }^ ounce. 

Salt: — A "pinch'' = l saltspoon. 

Sago: — Icup, heaped, weighs 8 ounces; 
1 tablespoon, heaped, 3^ ounce. 

Suet: — Same as butter. 

Sugar, granulated, or dry brown: — 1 
cup, heaped, weighs 8 ounces; 1 
tablespoon, heaped, 1 ounce. Pow- 
dered sugar: — 23'^ cups equal 1 lb. 

Tea: — 1 cup, heaped, weighs 2 ounces; 
1 tablespoon, heaped, weighs 34 
ounce; 1 teaspoon, heaped, }/^ 
ounce. 

Walnuts: — 1 cup, shelled, weighs 7 
ounces. 



LIQUIDS. 

Cream: — 1 cup holds }4, pint and 

weighs 7 ounces. 
Milk: — 1 cup holds 3-^ pint and weighs 

8 ounces. 
Molasses:—! cup holds 3^ 

weighs 12 ounces. 
Vinegar: — 1 cuji holds 3^ 

weighs 8 ounces. 
Water: — 1 cup holds 14, pi"* ^^^ 

weighs 8 ounces; 2 cups weigh 1 

pound. 



pint and 
pint and 



11 



MEASURING CUPS, ETC. 

Cup: — 1 cup holds 2 gills, or % pint, 
or 8 ounces of liquid; or 16 table- 
spoons of liquid; 4 cups of liquid 
equal 1 quart; 4 cups of flour 
equal 1 quart or 1 pound; 1 cup 
holds 4 ounces of coffee or 2 
ounces of tea. 

Basting = spoon: — 4 basting - spoons 
make 1 cupful; 1 basting=spoon 
equals 4 tablespoons or 8 tea- 
spoons. 

Saltspoon: — 4 saltspoons of liquid 
equal 1 teaspoon. 

Tablespoon: — 1 tablespoon holds % 
ounce of water; 8 tablespoons 
liquid make 1 gill; 16 tablespoons 
of liquid make 1 cupful; 12 table- 
spoons, or 8 heaping tablespoons, 
of dry material equal 1 cup; 4 
tablespoons of liquid make 1 
wineglass; 8 tablespoons of liquid 
make 1 gill; 2 rounded table- 
spoons equal 1 ounce of flour or 
cofifee; 1 tablespoon, heaped, holds 
^2, ounce barley, cornmeal, corn= 
starch, ground spice, sago, sugar 
or coffee, and )^ ounce of tea. 

Teaspoon: — 4 teaspoons of liquid equal 
1 tablespoon; 3 teaspoons of dry 
material equal 1 tablespoon. 1 
teaspoon holds 34 ounce of coffee 
and 1^' ounce of tea. 

A TUMBLER, common size, holds % 
pint, or 8 fluid ounces, or 1 cup. 

A WINE glass, common size, holds % 
gill, or 2 fluid ounces, or % cup. 



AVOIRDUPOIS WEIGHT. 

16 drams (dr.) make 1 ounce ( oz.). 

16 ounces make 1 pound (lb.). 

25 pounds make 1 quarter (qr.). 

4 quarters make 1 hundred weight 

(cwt.). 
20 hundred weight make 1 ton (T.). 



LIQUID OR WINE MEASURE. 

4 gills make 1 pint (pt.). 
2 pints make 1 quart (qt.). 
4 quarts make 1 gallon (gal.), 
313-2 gallons make 1 barrel (bbl.). 
63 gallons make 1 hogshead (hhd.). 
2 hogsheads make 1 pipe or butt (pi.). 



DRY MEASURE. 

2 pints make 1 quart. 
8 quarts make 1 peck. 
4 pecks make 1 bushel. 
8 bushels make 1 quarter. 



CLOTH MEASURE. 

234 inches make 1 nail. 
4 nails make 34 yard. 

4 quarters make 1 yard. 

3 quarters make 1 Ell Flemish. 

5 quarters make 1 Ell English. 

Cloth Measure is little used at pres- 
ent. In measuring goods sold by the 
yard, it is divided into halves, quart- 
ers, eighths and sixteenths. 



LINEAR MEASURE. 

12 inches = l foot. 

3 feet = l yard. 

53^ yards = l rod or pole. 

40 rods = l furlong. 

8 furlongs = l mile. 
3 miles = l league. 

3 barley=corns = l inch. 

3 inches = l palm. 

4 inches = l hand. 

9 inches = 1 span. 

21.888 inches = l sacred cubit. 

18 inches = l English cubit. 

11 feet = l great cubit. 

6 feet = l fathom. 

120 fathoms=l cable's length. 

6086.7 feet = l knot. 

3 feet = l pace. 

1,152^/3 common miles = l geographi- 
cal mile. 

3 geograjihical miles = l league. 

60 geographical miles = l degree. 

360 degrees = the circumference of the 
globe. 

THE METRIC SYSTEM. 

Measures of Weights. 

1 milligramme=fl.015432 grains. 
1 gramme = 15.432 grains. 
1 decagramme = 0.()22046 pounds. 
1 liectogramme=0.22046 pounds. 
1 kilogramme = 2.2046 pounds. 
1 myriagramme=22.046 pounds. 

Measures of Capacity. 

1 millilitre=0.0610 cubic in. = 338 fluid 

oz. 
1 ]itre = 1.0567 quarts. 
1 dekalitre = 2.6417 gallons. 
1 kektolitre = 26.4175 gallons = 2.84 

bushels. 
1 kilolitre =: 264.175 gallons = 2837 

bushels. 

Measures of Length. 

1 millimetre = 0.03i)37 inch. 
1 ceatimetre:=0.3937 inch. 
1 metre=:39.37 inch. 
1 decametre = 32.80!) feet. 
1 hectometre= 328.09 feet. 
1 kilometre = .6213 mile. 
1 myriametre = 6.2138 mile. 



12 



MEDICINAL TEMRS AND APOTHECA- 
RIES WEIGHTS AND MEASURES. 

Measures. 

60 miniine (M) or drops = 1 fluidrachm 

(/3.) 
8 fluidrachms:=l fluid ounce (/ 3.) 
16 fluid ounces = l pint (O.) 
8 pints^l gallon (Cong.) 

Weights. 

20 grains (gr. xx) = l scruple ( D or 

sc.) 
3 scruples (3 iij) = l drachm (3 or 

dr.) 
8 drachms (3 viij) = l ounce (3 or oz.) 
12 ounces (3 xij) = l pound (fltj.) 

Physicians in writing prescriptions 
use the Rotnan numerals instead of 
figures, but the small letters only, 
which they j^^'^cede by the symbols. 
They write j for i when it terminates 
a number. Thus 3 vij means 7 ounces, 
3 xiv means li scruples, etc. R is an 
abbreviation for recipe, or take; P 
for 2Jn>'ticxila, or little part; q. s. quan- 
tity sufficient; P. seq. for equal parts; 
q. p. as much as you please; gr. for 
grain; ss. for semi; d, aa. for equal 
quantities; ii for 2; gtt is a drop; Cong, 
is an abbreviation of congins, the latin 
for gallon; 0. for octariiis, the latin for 
one=eighth. The minim is equal to a 
drop of water; a jrint of water weighs 
a pound. 



MISCELLANEOUS TABLES 

COMPRISING VARIOUS THINGS 

WORTH KNOWING. 

Counting. — 12 units make a dozen; 
12 dozen make a gross; 12 gross make 
a great gross. 20 units make a score. 

Papek. — 21 sheets make 1 quire; 20 
quires make 1 ream; 2 reams make 1 
bundle. 

Books. — A sheet of paper folded in 
two leaves makes a folio or 4 pages; 
in»4: leaves a quarto, 4 to, or 8 pages; 
in 8 leaves an octavo, 8 vo, or 16 
pages; in 12 leaves, a duodecimo, 12 
mo, or 24 pages; in 16 leaves, a 16 
mo, or 32 pages; in 18 leaves an 18 
mo, or 36 pages. These terms are 
applied without regard to the size of 
the sheet folded, which may vary 
widely. 



MISCELLANEOUS TABLES 

(Continued.) 

Apples, dried, a bushel = 22 to 28 

lbs.* 
Apples, green, a bu&hel = 50 lbs."}" 
Beets, a bushel=:50 to 60 lbs.* 
Barley, a bushel = 48 Ibs.f 
Beans, a bushel = 60 lbs.* 
Bran, a bushel = 20 lbs. 
Buckwheat, a busheln=40 to 52 lbs.* 
Butter, a firkin = 56 lbs. 
Carrots, a bushel = 50 to 55 lbs.* 
Charcoal, a bushel = 22 lbs. 
Clover seed, a bushel = 60 lbs. 
Corn, a bushel, shelled = 56 Ibs.^f" 
Corn, a bushel, unshelled = 70 or 68 

lbs.* 
Cornmeal, a bushel = 48 Ibs.^ 
Cranberries, a bushel = 33 lbs."!" 
Feathers, a bale = about 1 cwt. 
Flaxseed, a bushel = 56 lbs. 
Fish, a quintal=100 lbs. 
Fish, a barrel = 200 lbs. 
Flour, a barrel = 196 lbs. 
Hempseed, a bushel^l-l lbs. 
Hickory=nuts, a bushel = 60 lbs. 
Honey, a gallon = 12 lbs. 
Meat, a stone = 80 lbs. 
Molasses, a hogshead = 130tol50 gals.* 
Oats, a bushelrr 32 Ibs.j 
Onions, a bushel = 48 to 57 lbs.* 
Parsnips, a bushel = 15o Ibs.f 
Peaches, dried, a bushel = 28 to 33 lbs.* 
Peas, dried, a bushel = 60 lbs. 
Peas, in pod, a bushel=32 lbs.* 
Popcorn, a bushel = 70 lbs. 
Potatoes, a bushel = 60 lbs. 
Potatoes, sweet, a bushel = 50 lbs.* 
Pork, a barrel — 200 lbs. 
Rice, a barrel = 600 lbs. 
Raisins, a barrel = 112 lbs. 
Rye, a bushel = 56 lbs. 
Salt, a barrel=:280 lbs. 
Salt, a bushel = 70 lbs. 
Soap, a barrel = 256 lbs. 
Soap, a box = 56 lbs. 
Sugar, a barrel = 200 to 250 lbs.* 
Tea, a chest = 60 to 81 lbs.* 
Timothy seed, a bushel = 45 lbs."!" 
Tobacco, a hhd. = 168 Has. 
Turnips, a bushel = 55 lbs.")" ' 
Wheat, a bushel=60 lbs. 
Wood, a tod = 28 lbs. 



t In most states, but varies. 
* Varying in different states. 

DEGREES OF HEAT FROM FUEL. 

Coal produces 1000^ F.; wood (hard) 
800° to 900'; charcoal (ordinary) 700°; 
charcoal (willow) 600°. 



18 



TIME TABLES FOR COOKING. 

TIME TO COOK MEATS. 

Beef, brisket of, boiled gently, about 30 minutes per lb. 

Beef, corned, boiled gently, about 31 minutes per lb. 

Beef, fillet of, rare, in moderate oven, f to 1 hour. 

Beef, rib=roast, rolled, rare, in moderate oven, 10 minutes per lb. 

Beef, sirloin, roasted in oven, rather underdone, 9 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, leg of, roasted, rather rare, 10 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, loin of, roasted, rare, 9 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, saddle of, roasted, rare, 10 minutes j)er lb. 

Mutton, shoulder, stuffed, roasted, well done, 16 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, leg of, boiled, gently, 17 minutes per lb. 

Veal, fillet of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes per lb. 

Veal, loin of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 17 minutes per lb. 

Veal, shoulder, stuffed, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes 

per lb. 
Pork, leg of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes per lb. 
Pork, loin of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 18 minutes i^er lb. 
Pork, shoulder of, roasted in slow oven, well done, 20 minutes per lb. 
Liver, roasted, well done, in moderate oven, about 2 hours. 
Bacon, boiled gently, 15 minutes per lb. 
Ham, boiled gently, 20 minutes per lb. 
Trij)e, boiled, nearly 5 hours. 

Meat for bouillon, simmer gently, 35 minutes per lb. 
Tongue, salted, boiled, 3 to 4 hours. 

TIME TO COOK POULTKY, ETC. 

Chicken, boiled gently, 20 minutes per lb. 

Chicken, roasted in oven, 20 minutes per lb. 

Duck, baked in hot oven, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Duck, roasted, full growth, f to 1 hour; duckling 25 to 35 minutes. 

Fowl, old, boil gently, 20 to 30 minutes per lb. 

Fowl, old, roasted, 20 to 30 minutes per lb. 

Goose, roast, 1 to 1| hours, according to size. 

Grouse, roasted in oven, 30 to 35 minutes. 

Partridge, roasted in oven, 25 to 35 minutes. 

Pigeons, roasted, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Prairie Chicken, broiled, 4 to 6 minutes. 

Quail, broiled, 4 to 6 minutes. 

Rabbit, roasted in oven, ^ to f hour. 

Turkey, boiled gently, 20 minutes per lb. 

Turkey, roasted in oven, 3 hours for an 8 lb. turkey. 

Venison, haunch of, roasted, rare, 10 minutes per lb. 

Venison, saddle of, roasted, rare, 10 minutes per lb. 

TIME TO COOK VEGETABLES. 

Artichokes, globe, boiled, ^ to 1 hour, according to age, etc. 
" Jerusalem, boiled, ^ to ^ hour, according to size. 

Asparagus, boiled, 15 to 25 minutes. 
Beans, shelled, boiled, 1 hour or more according to age, 
Beans, shelled, baked, 8 to 10 hours in moderate oven, 



TIME TO COOK VEGETABLES— (Continued.) 

Beans, string, boiled, 1 to 3 hours, according to age, etc. 

Beans, boiled, if young, about 1 hour; if old 2 to 4 hours, 

Brocoli, boiled, about | hour. 

Brussels sprouts, boiled, 10 to 20 minutes. 

Cabbage, winter, 1 hour or more; young, (juartered, | to | hour; sliced 

^ hour. 
Carrots, boiled, if young ^ to i hour; old, ^yhole, 1 hour or more. 
Cauliflower, boiled, 15 to 85 minutes. 
Celery, boiled, ^ hour. 
Corn, green, boiled, 20 to 25 minutes. 
Cucumbers, boiled, 12 to 15 minutes. 
Endive, stewed, 5 to 10 minutes. 
Kohlralji, boiled, 15 to 20 minutes. 
Lentiles, boiled, 2 hours or more. 
Lettuce, steamed, 10 or 15 minutes. 
Mushrooms, stewed, about ^ hour. 
Okra, boiled, | hour or more. 

Onions, boiled, if young -| to 1 hour; if old 2 hours or more. 
Parsnips, boiled, if small h to 1 hour; large, 1 to | hours. 
Peas, green, boiled, ^ hour or more, according to age. etc. 
Potatoes, boiled, 25 to 35 minutes. 
Potatoes, baked, | to 1 hour. 
Sweet jjotatoes, boiled, f to 1 hour. 
Sweet potatoes, baked, 1 to 1^ hours. 
Pumpkin, stewed, 4 to 5 hours. 
Salsify, boiled, about 1 hour. 
Sea kale, boiled, 15 to 20 minutes. 
Sorrel, scalded, 10 to 15 minutes. 
Spinach, covered closely, about 1 hour. 
Squash, boiled, 20 to 30 minutes. 
Squash, baked, about 1 hour. 
Tomatoes, baked. ^ to | hour. 
Tomatoes, stewed, | to =} hour. 

Turnips, boiled, if young 15 to 20 minutes; if old | to 1^ hours. 
Yams, boiled, | to 1 hour. 

TIME TO BAKE. 

Beans, 8 to 10 hours. 

Beef, sirloin, rare, 8 to 10 minutes per lb. 

Beef, sirloin, well done, 12 to 15 minutes per lb, 

Beef, long or short fillet, 20 to 30 minutes per lb. 

Beef, rolled rib or rump, 12 to 15 minutes per lb. 

Biscuit, 10 to 20 minutes. 

Bread, brick loaf, 40 to 60 minutes. 

Cake, thin, 15 to 20 minutes; thick, 30 to 40 minutes; fruit, 2 to 3 

hours. 
Cake, s^Donge, 45 to 60 minutes. 
Chicken, 3 to 4 lbs., 1 to 1^ hours. 
Cookies, 10 to 15 minutes. 
Custards, 20 to 30 minutes in a moderate oven. 
Diwk, tame, 40 to 60 minutes. 
Fish, 6 to 8 lbs., I Jiour, 

U 



TIME TO BAKE— (Conthmed.) 

Gingerbread, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Graham Gems, ^ hour. 

Lamb, well done, 15 minutes per lb. 

Mutton, rare, 10 minutes per lb. — well done 1() minutes per lb. 

Pies, ^ to I hour 

Pork, well done, 30 minutes per lb. 

Potatoes, 25 to 40 minutes, according to age etc. 

Pudding, — bread, rice and tajoioca, | to 1 hour. 

Pudding, — plum. 2 to 3 hours. 

Rolls, 10 to 15 minutes. 

Turkey, 8 lbs., 3 hours. 

Veal, well done, 20 minutes per lb. 

TIME TO BROIL. 

Chickens, about 20 minutes. 
Chops, 8 minutes. 
Steak, 4 to 8 minutes. 
Fish, 5 to 15 minutes. 



TIME TO FRY. 



Bacon, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Breaded chops, 4 to 6 minutes. 
Croquettes, 1 to 2 minutes. 
Doughnuts, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Fish balls, 1 minute. 
Fritters, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Muffins, 3 to 5 minutes. 
Small fish, 1 to 3 minutes. 
Smelts, 1 minute. 

16 



TABLE OF PROPORTIONS. 

Baking Powder. — Fen- hrcad, use 4 even teaspoons to 1 quart of 

flour, or 1 teaspoon to each cup of flour. Cake, made light with 

eggs, needs less. 
Batters. — Use 1 scant cup of liquid to each full cup of flour. 
Bread. — Use 1 scant cup of liquid for 3 full cups of flour, 
Cake. — For j^hiin cake use 1 saltspoon of sj^ice and 1 teaspoon oiex- 

iract for each loaf of usual size, and 1 teaspoon baking powder 

to 2 cups flour. For sponge cake use 1 saltspoon of salt and 1 

teaspoon of extract to 1 ordinary sized loaf. 
Cream of Tartar.— Use 2 full teaspoons to 1 level teaspoon of 

soda. 
Custards.— Use 1 teaspoon of extract for 1 quart of custard, and 1 

saltspoon of salt to 4 cups of milk. 
Extract. — Use 1 teaspoon to each loaf of plain or sponge cake, or to 

1 quart of custard. 
Herbs.— In soup, use for flavoring 1 teaspoon of mixed herbs to each 

quart of soup. 
Liquids.— For bi-ead use 1 scant cup to 3 full cups flour; for muffins 

use the same for 2 full cups flour; for batters use the same for 1 

full cup flour. 
MuFFiNS.^Use 1 scant cup liquid for three full cups flour. 
Pepper. — Use 1 saltspoon of white pepper to 1 quart of soup stock. 
Salt.— Use 1 teaspoon to 2 quarts of flour, or to 1 quart of soup 

stock. Use 1 saltspoon to 1 quart of milk in custards, or to 1 

loaf of si^onge cake. 
Soda. Use 1 f^(Y'/i teaspoon to 2 /»// teaspoons of cream of tartar; 

use 1 teaspoon soda to 1 cup molasses, or 2 cups sour milk. 
Soup. — In soup stock use 1 tablespoon of each chopped vegetable, 1 

teaspoon of mixed herbs, 4 cloves, 4 pepper=corns, 1 teaspoon of 

salt, or 1 saltspoon of white pejDper to each quart of stock. For 

each pound of meat and bone use 1 quart of water. 
Spice. — Use 1 saltspoon of any kind for 1 loaf of cake. 
Yeast. — For each 2 cups of liquid used in bread, etc., use 1 cup liquid 

yeast, or ^ of a yeast cake. 1 cup of liquid yeast is equal to ^ 

cake of compressed yeast. 

17 



ALTERING RECIPES. 

In order to be sure of the result, care should be taken in meas- 
uring all the ingredients, to use the exact quantities called for in a 
recipe, but if all the ingredients are changed in the same proportion 
(as for example, using twice as much, or ^ or § as much of each one) 
the result will not be affected. As has been well said by the author 
of " Quick Cooking," however, except in those cases like the cooking 
of meat and vegetables, the baking of bread, etc., where definite 
chemical laws appll) (which cannot be violated without loss) the 
rules of cooking are not absolute and unchangeable. The large class 
of materials combined for producing flavors (as in soups, etc.) can be 
varied indefinitely, according to convenience and the materials at 
hand. Whenever you get hold of a recipe calling for numerous ar- 
ticles for flavoring, some of which you do not have, you can often use 
the recipe, putting in the flavorings you do have, or substituting 
others for those you lack, and still produce a very good dish, although 
it will, of course, be a new one — or, if not judiciously done, it may not 
be so good! Those who have mastered the princiiDles of cookery and 
acquired a little experience can devise many new and excellent 
recipes. 

INTOXICATING LIQUORS. 

In all recipes contained in the department of cookery, which ad- 
vised the use of intoxicating liquors, we have substituted fruit juices 
— often using orange or lemon juice. Nothing can excel the unfer- 
mented juices of fruits as a flavoring, or for giving a desirable pi- 
quancy to various dishes. They make an almost perfect substitutute 
for liquors, and for obvious reasons are much safer for family use. 
Fruit juice can be easily substituted for liquor in any recipe by those 
who desire to do so. In fruit cake, \ cup or 10 tablespoons of mo- 
lasses is equal to 1 wine glass of brandy or other liquor. Those so 
disposed can substitute molasses for liquor in this way in any such 
recijje found in books, magazines or newspapers; a cake thus made 
will be quite as good as though the liquor was used. As the alcohol 
evaporates in baking, however, liquors are not so objectionable in 
cakes as in sauces. 

18 



SOUPS. 

OUPS are of 2 kinds; the heavy, rich soups, made from stock 
prepared the day before, with the addition of other ingre- 
^2J dients on the day of serving, and plain soups, made entirely 
in the morning before dinner. These latter will, no doubt, 
be more useful for ordinary occasions, being lighter, and quite as 
palatable, and they certainly are more economical than those made 
from stock. 

Soups are made by cooking meat, fish or vegetables in water or 
milk, and they are seasoned ^yiih a great variety of flavorings. If 
you see a recipe calling for a great variety of ingredients, many of 
which you do not have, you will find that you can often use what 
ingredients you do have and still produce a very good soup, as many 
of the ingredients can be omitted without much loss — it will simjaly 
change the flavor a little. Remember that the 2 important points 
with soups are, (1) their nutritive properties, which are extracted 
from the meat, fish, etc., and (2) the flavoring derived from herbs, 
spices, etc., added for that purpose. Some soups will contain a good 
deal of nourishment and others very little; some will be very highly 
and others only slightly flavored. 

The names are often given to soups because of their principal 
ingredients, as with "Beef," "Chicken," "Potato," or "Cabbage 
Soup," and sometimes because of the color, as "White," or "Brown 
Soup," while often they are purely fanciful. By bearing these 
things in mind, and by studying the principles involved in extract- 
ing the nutritive properties from the fish or meat, the inexperienced 
cook can soon master the mysteries of sou^d making, and she can then 
easily make new and appetizing combinations for herself. 

The Utensils Used. — The soup^kettle or stock pot for, an ordinary 
family should hold from 6 quarts to 2 gallons. The allowance of 
soup for each person is a half j)int, and unless the family is very 
large, a kettle of this size will give amjjle room for a full supply,- 
after straining from the soup material. The best kettle is made of 
aluminum, and iron is next, and if kept scruimlously clean (as all 
cooking utensils should be) it will not discolor the soup. If any- 
thing should happen to turn color in it, there is nothing harmful in 
the oxide of iron, whereas, some articles of food are made jjoisonous 
if prepared in brass, copper, or lead, especially acid foods, if allowed 

19 



20 SOUPS 

to stand in those vessels. The soup=kettle should be high in jDropor- 
tion to the size, as only a small surface in contact with the hot range 
is needed for the long, slow simmering required in the preparation of 
soups. A kettle of that form takes less room on the range, and when 
dinner is being prei^ared, this is desirable. 

Other utensils used in the preparation of soups are, 1 coarse and 
1 fine colander, and 2 or 3 squares of cheese=cloth for strainers. The 
clotli sfrcu'ner should be boiled in water with a little cooking soda 
added. It boiled in soap, the odor is apt to remain in the cloth, 
giving a bad flavor to the soup'. 

The Principles Involved in Soup Making. — Many cooks have little idea 
of the principles involved in extracting the nutritive properties from 
meat, but they are quite simple, and are as follows:* Fibre, fat, 
gelatine and albumen, with extractives and salts (to which some 
writers give the name of osmazome), are the component parts of all 
meats. Fibres swell up and soften when subjected to the action of 
hot water. They are a valuable and nourishing food, but are insolu- 
ble in water, and constitute nearly all that remains of meat after long 
boiling. Fat is dissolved by boiling, but as it is contained in cells 
covered by a very fine membrane which never dissolves, a portion of 
it always adheres to the fibres. The other portion rises to the sur- 
face of the stock, and is that which has escaped from the cells which 
were not whole, or which have burst by boiling. Fat is also added 
to thickened soups, where it combines with starch and does not rise 
to the surface. The gelatine is soluble in water, and is the basis and 
nutritious portion of soup stock. It is the gelatine which, when 
enough of it is j)resent, causes the stock to become a jelly when cold. 

Albumen surrounds the fibres of meat in its soluble state, just as 
it exists in an unboiled egg. It is soluble in cold or tepid water, but 
it begins to coagulate at 145° and sets into a jelly at 160°, for which 
reason it is evident that if the water is boiling when the meat is put 
in, or if it is afterwards made to boil up quickly, the albumen will 
harden, and will form a thin case or shell which will prevent the gel- 
atine and osmazome from dissolving, and the result will be a thin 



*Count Rumford, writing of his experiments in feeding the Bavarian army, 
gays: "I constantly found that the richness or quality of a soup depended 
more upon the proper choice of the ingredients, and the proper management 
of the tire in the combination of these ingredients, than upon the quantity of 
solid nutritious matter employed; much more upon the art and skill of the 
cook than upon the sums laid out in the market." To which we may add, 
tliat the poor suffer more from the common lack of skill than the rich, be- 
cause they are least able to bear the losses it entails, and therefore we say, 
that to no class is a clear understanding of the principles of cookery so im- 
portant as to the poor. 



SOUPS 21 

and tasteless stock. Albumen partially dissolved, makes the cloudy 
ajjpearance of soup and jelly; coagulated albumen is removed as 
scum. Scum is wasted food. It is well also to know that the size of 
the piece of meat affects the solubility of the albumen, as the i^art 
farthest from the surface will receive enough heat to be coagulated 
before it is dissolved, if the piece is large. The extractives and salts 
(osmazome) are soluble in water, cold or hot, and they give flavor 
and perfume to the stock. The flesh of old animals contains more 
than that of young ones, and brown meats contain more than white 
and make the stock more fragrant. By roasting meat, a portion is 
converted to caramel; thefore, by putting the remains of roast meats 
in the stock=pot a better flavor is obtained. Choose lean rather than 
.fat meat for soup. See also what we say elsewhere about the princi- 
ples involved in cooking meats. 

Bones are composed of ossein, a gelatinous, fatty fluid some- 
thing like marrow, and an earthy substance, to which they 'owe their 
solidity. As much gelatinous matter is contained in 2 oz. of bone as 
in 1 lb. of meat, but it is so incased in the earthy substance, that usu- 
ally only the surface is dissolved in boiling water; when the bones 
are broken, there are more surfaces, and more gelatinous matter is 
dissolved; and by reducing the bones to powder, all the gelatinous 
matter can be obtained. Long continued boiling is, therefore, needed 
for bones, and this boiling should continue until the earthy matter is 
full of little empty holes where the gelatinous matter once was, and 
until the bone has lost ^ of itS weight. They should boil for days 
rather than hours. The best way to break bones is to pound them 
roughly in an iron mortar, adding a little water from time to time to 
prevent their heating. It is a great saving to thus utilize bones 
which are often entirely wasted. If the bones are finely broken, tie 
them up in a bag and jjut them in the stock=pot. Now gelatine 
forms the basis of stocks, but although nourishing, it is without taste, 
and so stock made entirely of it, is not liked. Flavoring and salts are 
needed to make it palatable, and when meat and vegetables are add- 
ed to the cooking bones, they make the stock savory. 

Stock. — When meat is used solely to make stock, cut it into very 
small pieces, put it into cold water, and heat very slowly; but if you 
wish to have stock and a piece of savory meat also, choose the fresh- 
est meat, and have it cut as thick as possible, for if it is a thin, flat 
piece, if will not look well, and will be soon spoiled by the boiling. 
It is impossible, however, to have fi)'st rede stock and (food, boiled 
meat at the same time, as the two objects are diametrically opposed. 



22 • SOUPS 

As it extracts all the juices from the surface of meat to wash it, that 
should never he done unless it is absolutely necessary. Add cold 
water, and put the stock=pot on a gentle fire and heat it gradually. 
The albumen will dissolve if it is never heated above 1G0°, and will 
not coagulate, but as, in this state, it is much lighter than water, it 
will rise to the surface, and this is what makes the scum. The ris- 
ing of the hardened albumen (scuiv) has the same effect in clarify- 
ing stock as the white of eggs (which is albumen) and, as a rule, it 
may be said, that the more scum there is, the clearer the stock will 
be. If you want clear stock, remove the scum when it rises thickly. 
Do not let the stock boil fast, because then part of the scum will 
be dissolved and another part will go to the bottom, thus making 
it difficult to obtain a clear broth. Always try to have the fire very 
regular, as then it will not be necessary to add cold water in order 
to make the scum rise; but if the fire is too warm at first, that will be 
necessary. If fried onions are added to stock, tie them in a bag, as 
they may cloud it without this precaution. Generally siDcaking, the 
longer the stock simmers, the better it will be. 

Removing Fat. — The English and Americans prefer soup with the 
fat removed; it has become the fashion and the fat is thought to look 
badly, but the fat is food, and quite nutritious. The common people 
on the continent prefer their soup covered with "eyes" (fat). The 
scum is coagulated albumen, and if clean meat was used, the scum 
will not be objectionable; it is certainly nutritious, and to throw it 
away is clear waste. Its presence is not noticable in thickened soups 
as it is mingled in and hidden by the other ingredients. Those who 
want clear soups can easily make them, but it is well to understand 
thftt they are less nutritious than others. In invalid cookery the fat 
is removed because the stomach is then weak, and often not able to 
digest it, but with healthy people the case is different. 

When it is desired to remove the fat, soup can be allowed to 
stand until next day, and it can then all be taken off; then the soup 
can be re= warmed. Or any surplus fat on the surface of soup may 
be removed (after skimming off as much as possible with a simoon) 
by drawing a piece of blotting jjaper across it, which will remove all 
the remaining fat. Or to take fat from soups, sauces, etc., thor- 
oughly wet a cloth with cohl M'ater and pour the stock through it; 
the coldness of the cloth will coagulate the fat, which will collect on 
the cloth; repeat if necessary; if any x^a'rticles of fat remain, take 
them off with blotting paper as above. The fat on the cloth can be 
removed and clarified, and is good for many purposes. 




SOUPS 23 

Flavorings — Add vegetables used for flavoring about an hour 
before serving soup; that is, do not add them until the juices are 
nearly extracted trom the meat. Wash and pare the vegetables, cut 
them into small pieces, and keep them in cold water until ready to 
add them to the soup. They can be first blanched or parboiled if 
very strong or old. If desired, a part or all of the vegetables can be 
fried before being added to the soup; potatoes, 
cabbages and onions are better for being boiled 
in separate water before being added. Pars- 
ley, summer savory and celery are also often 
used; onions and garlic we speak of in a 
following paragraph. Some cooks occasionally 
use cloves, basil, bay leaf, nutmeg, etc. For a 
variety, try a little caraway seed in potato soup. 
Just before serving, add the salt and pepper. 

Sweet Basil is a tender annual, a native of Asia. 
The leaves and leafy tops are highly aromatic, and their basil. 

flavor resembles that of cloves. It is much used in 
French cookery, but not much by English or American cocks. 

The flavoring of all food is an important matter and should 
never be slighted. For soups and stews the best rule is to combine 
several flavors without having any one of them too prominent. 

As boiling spoils the flavor of wines and catsups, if they are 
added, it should not be until just before serving. Unless the soup 
is to be thick, no flavor should be added, but if some of the meat 
and vegetables used are fried, it will improve the color and flavor, 
but be sure nothing, either meat or vegetable, is added, which will 
have the taste of being smoked or burnt. 

Great richness may often be given to soups by the addition of 
fried cucumbers. Cut off celery leaves, dry them, and put them in a 
tin can, and you will have them the year round to flavor soups. 

Using Onions. — Onions, garlic and shallot are disliked by so many 
people, that, in making stock, or any of the quickly made soups, it 
is better to leave them out; but as many peoj^le consider scntp flavor- 
less without those vegetables, a dish of stewed onions, garlic or shal- 
lot may be cooked separately, and on serving it, a little can be added 
to the soup given to those who like such flavors. In this way, soup 
either with or without onions can be served from the same tureen. 

Onion juice for flavoring can easily be obtained by peeling and 
mincing an onion and squeezing it in an ordinary lemon scpieezer, or 
cheese=cloth. The odor can be removed from the squeezer and knife 
by washing them in cold water. 



24 



SOUPS 




Tne Chiye is a plant belonging to the same family as the 
leek and onion, being the smallest of the onion tribe. Its 
properties are similar to the onion, and it is used like that in 
soups, sauces, salads, etc., but it is much stronger, and only 
about }^ as much is needed. 

The Shallot, Shalot ob Eschalot is a native of Pales- 
tine. It was introduced into Europe by the Crusaders. It 
belongs to the same family as the common onion, but its fla- 
vor is stronger, and it does not leave an unpleasant odor 
behind. The leaves of the plant may be cut while growing, 
and used like young onions. It is used for high flavored soups 
and gravies, and is excellent when pickled. Shallot vinegar is 
used for flavoring soups, sauces, hashes, etc. 

Rocambole is often called Sjjaniah Shallot, and belongs to 
the order Liliaca}. It is very similar to garlic, but is milder. 

Broth can be changed and often imi^roved in fia- shallot. 

vor by using 2 or 3 kinds of meat at the same time; 
for example, with beef a little liver can be added, or with veal a 
piece of ham. 

For seasoning, salt, whole and ground pepper, both black and 
white, cayenne, allspice, ginger, cloves, mace and cinnamon should 
be ready. Whole i^epper is always used for white soups, as ground 
pepper makes them look dusty. As herbs and spices are more easily 
removed from soup, by straining, when whole than when ground, it 
is better to use them whole. 

Be chary of seasoning and spices. A little of these things will 
go a long way. But a very little sugar judiciously added will often 
be found to greatly improve the flavor. Never indulge over freely in 
onion or shallot in soups. The condiments should not be added 
until just before the simmering is completed, in any soup, as they 
will harden the meat etc., with which they come in contact. 

Hints. — When the meat, vegetables, etc., are ipnt in the kettle 
add what water will be needed, as it will injure the flavor of soup to 
add more afterwards. 

If too much salt is added by mistake, its taste may be modified 
by adding 2 or 3 teaspoons of vinegar; its acid will partially neu- 
tralize the alkaline salt; then add a little sugar to mask the taste 
of the vinegar. 

No further general directions will be needed for making soups, 
as special directions accomj^any each recij)e. The experienced cook 
can vary the rules according to the tastes of her family, while the 
novice in cookery will find the best results by adhering strictly to the 
recipes as given, as they have been tested and found good. 

STOCK FOR SOUP. 

All meat and bones, scraps and trimmings, used in making stock, 



SOUPS 25 

or plain soup, must be perfectly fresh, for the least taint in the meat 
is sure to spoil stock or soup. Soft water is also required, as this ex- 
tracts the juices from the meat, and gelatine from the bones, much 
better than hard water. The proportion of meat and water for stock 
is about 1 pound of meat, bones and trimmings, for 2 quarts of water. 
The slow boiling does not much reduce the quantity, but a little boil- 
ing water may be added from time to time if any appreciable quanti- 
ty has evaporated. When the meat separates from the bones, it can 
be taken out and used in making various side dishes found under the 
head of " Meats " — the bones remaining longer for the extraction of 
gelatine. 

Mutton, lamb and jjork are not good for stock, as the flavor of 
the former is unpleasant when re=cooked, and pork is too oily to use 
in this way, although many cooks do use ham bones in soups. Beef 
makes the best stock, as the flesh of mature animals contains more 
osmazome; an old fowl is a great addition to stock. Veal alone 
makes a fine white stock, but not so savory. Bones ought always to 
form a com23onent part in the soup^kettle when making stock, and 
they should be finely broken, in order to extract all the gelatine. 

Watch the stock pot until it is ready to boil, then carefully take 
off all the scum as fast as it rises. When thoroughly skimmed, set 
back on the range where it will just simmer — do not boil rapidly as 
this hardens the albumen. It may be kept simmering on a gas or 
kerosene stove, if fire is not needed for other purposes. Stock while 
cooking should not be tightly covered. A sieve should be placed 
over the kettle to keep out flies, but close covering prevents the stock 
from being clear. 

The vegetables used in making stock, are turnips, carrots, onions 
or garlic and celery. The meat should slowly cook 4 or 5 hours, and 
the vegetables the last hour, as vegetables should only be added in 
time to become thoroughly done when used in any soup; then strain 
it through the cloth strainer (called by foreign cooks a "tammy") 
into a tin pail, or deep tin pan, as it cools more quickly in tin than in 
any other vessel. The i^ail or pan must be entirely tinned, for if the 
tin is off the vessel, the stock may be discolored by standing in con- 
tact with iron; — the salt in the soup will attack the iron, and cause 
rust. While boiling, the salt does not attack the kettle unless it is 
new and rough, because, after using a smooth kettle for a while, the 
pores of the iron become filled with the fat of the meats cooked in it. 

Place the tin containing the stock in an airy place, in the shade, 
where it will cool as quickly as possible, and cover it with a sieve to 
keep out the flies. When it is cooled, place it uncovered in the ice 



26 SOUPS 

chest for the fat to rise. The stock should be a firm jelly and will 
keep for a week in the ice chest. The next day after making it, the 
fat can all be removed from the top of the stock, and used in cooking 
vegetables. Wipe the top of the stock with a dry cloth, and then 
with a little cloth wet with extract of cloves to prevent its molding. 

For ordinary cooking, especially in hot weather, it is better to 
make stock one day, for the soup of the following day, rather than 
take the risk of having it mold or sour. Remember that it must be 
cooled as quickly as possible without other covering than a sieve, 
which facilitates the escape of steam, and consequently the cooling of 
the stock, and at the same time keeps out the flies. If tightly cov- 
ered, and the stock is a long time in cooling, it will ferment and sour, 
w^hen it becomes poisonous. If only beginning to turn, it is said 
that it may be restored by tying some charcoal in a bag, putting it in 
the stock, and then boiling it. 

STOCK NO. 1. 

2 lbs. shin of beef well broken. 1 head of celery. 

2 lbs. knuckle of veal. 4 whole cloves. 

1 gallon cold water. 1 teaspoon of broken white pepi^er. 

1 large onion. 1 teaspoon of sugar caramel. 

3 carrots. 1 blade of mace, or a little nutmeg. 
1 turnii). 1 soup bunch; salt. 

STOCK NO. 2. 

1 old fowl. 2 carrots. 

4 lbs. veal bones well broken. 1 turnip. 

1 gallon of cold water. Salt and pepper. 

2 onions. Cloves and herbs. 

STOCK NO. 3. 

4 lbs beef shin-bones, broken. 3 large carrots. 

1 chicken. 1 turnip. 

1 gallon cold water. Salt and pepper. 

3 large onions. Cloves and herbs. 

VEAL OR WHITE STOCK. 

Wipe 4 lbs, knuckle of veal, break the bones, put it into one gal- 
lon of cold water, heat slowly, and simmer 4 hours, skimming well; 
then add 1 stalk of celery, 1 onion, 1 bay leaf and 1 tablespoon salt, 
and simmer 1 hour longer. It should jelly when cold, and the fat 
can easily be taken ofp. It can be melted for use and strained 
through cheese-cloth, or flannel, or clarified with egg if necessary and 
it is wanted very clear. 



SOUPS 27 

FISH STOCK. 

Never throw away the water in which fish has been boiled; it is 
valuable for making fish sauce, and also cheap fish soups — {soup 
maigve). Therefore, in boiling fish, or any meats whatever, when 
the broth is, or may be wanted for stock, be careful about putting in 
too much salt. Salt in quantity is not needed for boiling fish — only 
a little to harden it, and the sauce served with it can contain more if 
liked. Many kinds of fish, after boiling in just sufficient water to 
cover them, will leave the broth a hard jelly when it is cold. This of 
course contains nourishment, and the next day can be utilized for a 
fine souj), by adding the bones and remnants of the boiled fish with 
additional seasoning and vegetables. 

Stock, to Clear or Clarify. — For each quart of jellied stock, the 
whites of 2 eggs are required; melt the stock and let it get 
steaming hot, but not boiling; beat the whites of 2 eggs, with the 
shells which have been washed and well crushed, and stir into the 
hot stock, then let it come to the boiling point; set it back on the 
range and simmer 15 minutes; strain through a flannel bag; keep 
returning it through the bag until it runs through' bright and clear. 
In cold weather this operation must be near the fire to keep the jelly 
from sctfing. The bag must be made of fine, thin, new flannel, and 
well scalded in hot water containing a teaspoon of borax, or cooking 
soda. Never use soap in cleaning the bag, or other strainers used in 
making soups or gravies, as the odor of the soa^D will affect the 
flavor of the soups. Clearing stock extracts the flavor and nutrition, 
and is not necessary for every=day soups, besides being too expen- 
sive, as well as consuming too much time. The every^day soup only 
needs straining and the removal of superfluous fat. 

To Clarify Soup, when desired, beat the white of an egg 
with a small cup of cold water and add to the souj); simmer for 10 
minutes, and then strain through the " tammy," or cloth strainer. 

Hints. — Even very weak stock is much better than water to use 
for soups and gravies, vegetable stock being better than none. 
White stock is made of veal, and of bones which have been boiled 
once or contain only gelatine. The best stock is obtained from the 
freshest meat. 

Souj) meat if not boiled too long, can, after cooling, be finely 
choj)ped, seasoned to taste, and heated again with a piece of butter. 
If not moist enough, 1 or 2 spoonfuls from the soup=kettle may be 
added. This will make a delicious side dish, or nice breakfast dish 
the next morning. 



28 SOUPS 

If a good soup is served (which can be made of the cheapest 
cuts of meat) with bread, it is ahnost a meal in itself. Then the 
meat can be served as hoiiilli, or minced and made delicious by judi- 
cious seasoning and flavoring — it is much less expensive than the 
heavy and costly large joints. French cookery is proverbially inex- 
pensive, and it is equally renowned for its delicacy. In France just 
this rule of cookery is most often follow^ed. But it should be remem- 
bered that the French do not cook the soup until (dl the osmazome 
and nutrients are extracted from the meat. If cooked until all the 
nutrients are extracted from the fibres, they will be of little value, as 
needed fibre can be obtained more cheaply in other ways, than to 
attempt to make them palatable by adding the other ingredients 
necessary. 

Coloring for Soups. — Amber Color. — The favorite color for soups 
is caramel or scorched sugar (not burned). This not only gives the 
soup a fine amber color but imparts a fine flavor to it. Vegetables 
sliced thin and fried in a very little butter till nicely browned, and 
then put into the soup kettle, will impart an amber color. — Brown. 
Onions fried a dark brown, M'ill, in addition to caramel, give a 
brown color. Many cooks fry a few slices of the soup meat a dark 
brown before the simmering x^rocess is begun.— (rree«. Pounded 
spinach and x^uree of young green peas color soups green. — Golden 
Color. Saffron will give soups a fine golden color — only a very little 
is needed. — Bed. Tomatoes, lobster coral, well pounded, and cochi- 
neal will impart a red color. Pot=marigold, leaves, stems and flowers 
are used by the French to color and flavor soups. 

Lobster Butter. — Take lobster coral (not the little red eggs that 
cling to the outside of the lobster, but the red lumps inside when it 
is cut open down to the tail); wash it carefully, removing every mor- 
sel of the flesh or green part, as that may turn it after it is made. 
Add a little butter and pound it in a mortar — the less butter used the 
better, but it must bo pounded until perfectly smooth and free from 
grit; then add a little cayenne pepper and nutmeg, which will pre- 
serve it. Alxjut half fill jelly glasses with it, set it in the oven till 
thoroughly hot, press it down, pour on a little melted parafine or 
clarified butter, and tie on x^aper. 

ADDITIONS TO SOUPS. 
Quenelles or Force Meat, Croutons and Nudels or Noodles are additions 
to soup used by foreign cooks. Curry^powder and various sauces are 
also used for flavoring rich soups for banquets and dinners for cere- 
mony, and can be used, if liked, in the ijrexmration of side dishes 



SOUPS 



29 



made from soup=meat, in warming the remains of boiled and roasted 
meat. 

CROUTONS (pronounced krn-tons'). — These are bits of bread 
cut in small diamonds, squares, cubes, or in fanciful shajjes. They 
are fried brown in butter, and used in soups, and as a garnish for 
side dishes and entrees of meat. 

FORCEMEAT OR QUENELLES (pronounced kee-nells.)— This 
is made of equal parts of bread-crumbs, beef suet, and any kind of 
raw meat excepting mutton, land), or j)ork. Poultry and game make 
excellent force=meat, but veal is most commonly used. The suet and 
meat must first be cut finely, then chojiped, and lastly jiounded to a 
paste in a mortar, with a little salt, pepper and any pulverized herbs, 
if liked. 

To 1 pound of meat and 1 of suet, allow 4 eggs. Beat the eggs 
thoroughly and mix with the paste, and work through a wire sieve or 
fine colander to take out any fibers that may remain in the meat; 
to the strained mixture add the bread=crumbs which have been previ- 
ously dried, pulverized and sifted; then take up the mixture in a tea- 
spoon, and with another teas^Doon form and smooth the quenelles in 
shape like a small 
egg; they are then 
dropped in boiling 
water for ten min- 
utes to x'O'^ch. 

When a soup is to i j; ^^s»-^*'^ fokming quenelles. 

be served with 
them, place them in 

the tureen, and jjour the hot soup over them. Another way to i^re- 
pare force=meat balls is to shape the above mixture into balls the size 
of marbles, and fry in boiling fat until a light brown. 

SUET DUMPLINGS FOR SOUP— Take 3 cups sifted flour, 
sift in 3 teaspoons baking powder, and then rub ill well 1 cup of 
finely chopped suet; add 1 teaspoon of salt, and enough sweet milk 
to make as stiff as biscuit dough; then form it into balls about the 
size of oranges, flour them well, and ^ hour before serving the soup, 
put them in it; the cover should not be taken off, and to make them 
nice they should boil steadily until ready to serve. They make a 
kind of potqjie. 

NOODLES OR NUDELS — To 1 egg add a little salt, and flour to 
make a stiff paste. Roll out as thin as a wafer, then roll up as you 




30 SOUPS 

would jelly-cake. Slice otf the end in fine strings, shake out loosely 
and cook in the soup for 10 minutes before taking it up; or the 
dough may be rolled out a little thicker than pie^crust, and cut in 
rounds with a tiny biscuit cutter; or it may be divided in 2, then 4, 
then 8 parts, and so on until the pieces are the size of a gooseberry 
when rolled in the hand. Roll, and boil them in the soup for 15 
minutes before taking it up. The German mi dels are made much 
the same as this, but they use no salt, as that, they think, makes 
them sticky when cooked. 

SOLJP=BUNCH. — This is a bunch of young onions or leeks, car- 
rots, and various herbs to be found in the market in most large places, 
such as green sage, thyme, marjoram etc.; celery=tops are sometimes 
included. The onions, carrots and other vegetables can be cut in 
pieces for the soup, but the herbs are best folded in thin muslin and 
taken out after 10 minutes simmering in the soup. 

SOUP BOQUET — A boquet of herbs for flavoring soups and 
sauces is much used by foreign cooks, and is made of a few sprigs of 
parsley, thyme, celery leaves, 1 or 2 leaves of sage and a bay leaf. 
This may be folded in a small square of tarlatan or other thin cloth, 
and wound with a thread. This can be put in the soup for a little 
time, and all removed without trouble when the soup is served. 

THICKENING FOR SOUP.— Clear soup may be thickened with 
a little corn=starch, and still preserve its transparency. For brown 
souj)s, browned flour is much better than the raw for thickening. 
Put into a small sauce pan i lb. of butter and when hot, stir into it 
2 cups of flour. Stir this over the fire till it is pale brown, taking 
care that it does not burn. One large tablespoonful thickens a 
quart of soup. 

Flour, arrowroot, bread-crumbs, sago, rice, oatmeal, barley, 
macaroni and vermicelli are all put into souj) to thicken it. They all 
have this in common, that the soup must actually boil to burst the 
starch granules after they are added. Floury substances must be 
mixed smooth with a little cold water, milk or broth, before being 
added to the bulk of the broth. Eggs, when added, should be 
beaten, mixed with a little of the warm liquid, strained into the soup, 
and not afterwards allowed to boil, lest they harden in tiny lumps, or 
what is popularly called " curdle." The yolk is better to use than 
the white. " Body " may be given to soup by adding a little cold 
potato, grated, and mashed i^otato is sometimes added, mixed smooth 
with a Itttle milk. Flour can be cooked in a little butter and then 



SOUPS 31 

added, which is probably better than first mixing it in cold water as 
above. Barley, when added, should be soaked over night, and then 
stirred in an hour before the soup is done. With rice, use 1 table- 
spoon to 1 quart of soup, and add it about 80 minutes before it is 
done. Farina can be sprinkled in a short time before serving, allow- 
ing it to boil a little while. 

CARAMEL FOR SOUP. — Put a teaspoon of sugar in a frying- 
pan and place on the stove; let it dissolve and brown, but not burn. 
When it has turned a bright golden color and begins to smoke, add 
water enough to cover the bottom of the pan; let it boil up and dis- 
solve the caramel; then pour into the soup for coloring and flavor. 
This is not to be used in any white soup. If you have prepared 
caramel on hand, use that. See our recipe given elsewhere for pre- 
paring it. 

BROWNED CRACKERS.— These are a fine addition to soups, 
and with tea or coffee are good for invalids. The crackers are first 
split and a little butter spread on the halves; they are then placed on 
a baking tin, with the si^lit and buttered side up; set them in a hot 
oven, on the top shelf, and they are done when of a delicate yellow- 
ish brown. They need watching very closely, to prevent scorching. 
They are delicious with soups, fish chowder and oyster stews. 

EQQ=BALLS FOR SOUP.— Powder some hard=boiled yolks of 
egg, and add sufficient raw yolk to make the mixture into a paste 
that can be rolled; add some pepper, salt, a little finely chopped pars- 
ley, and a "suspicion" of nutmeg; roll into balls the size of marbles. 
Dip the balls into flour and throw them into boiling water till they 
are set; then drain them and throw them into the soup before serv- 
ing. They can also be used to garnish entrees. 

VIRGINIA FLAVORING — Take thyme, mint, sweet marjoram, 
and rosemary gathered in full perfection; pick from the stalks, i^ut 
them in a large jar, pour on strong vinegar, and let stand 24 hours; 
then take out the herbs, throw in fresh bunches, and do this 3^ times; 
then strain the liquor, put it in bottles, cork and seal tight. Do not 
let the herbs stay in more than 24 hours at one time, else a bitter,, 
unsavory taste may be imparted. What is wanted, is just the deli- 
cate first flavor which comes from steeping the herbs in the liquid. 
It makes a delicious flavor for soups and sauces. 



32 VEGETABLE SOUPS 

VEGETABLE SOUPS. 

ALMOND SOUP — Blanch and pound finely 1 pound of sweet 
almonds, and the yolks of 4 hard boiled eggs; beat these well togeth- 
er, and add to a gallon of hot stock; let it come to boiling and stir 
constantly; thicken with bits of butter rolled in flour, and just before 
serving, add salt to taste, and a coffee cup of rich cream. Have the 
whites of the eggs cut in small j^ieces in the tureen, pour over it the 
hot soup and serve. Time, 20 minutes. 

ASPARAGUS SOUP.— Break off all that is tender from a bundle 
of fresh, green asparagus, and put this in a large pan, with a large 
handful of freshly gathered spinach, 1 of parsley, and the same of 
spring onions. Wash in 2 waters and drain in a sieve; then boil in 
2 quarts of water, with a bit of butter and a little salt. As s(jon as 
the asparagus is done, rub all through a fine colander and return to 
the pot; then add a piece of butter the size of a small egg (cut in 
bits and rolled in flour), a teaspoon of sugar, and a sprinkle of wdiite 
pepper. Serve hot with croutons. Tune, \ hour. 

BARLEY SOUP. — Scald 10. tablespoons of pearled barley; drain, 
cover with fresh boiling water, and boil 8 hours. Scald a c[uart of 
rich, sweet milk and add to the barley when done. Season with salt 
and pepi^er to taste. Beat the yolks of 10 eggs to a foam and put in 
the soup'tureen: pour over the barley soup and serve, 

BEAN SOUP. — Soak 1 cuj) of white beans over night; in the 
morning boil until quite tender; then rub through a colander, and 
add 3 pints of water and 1 quart of rich milk, 2 tablespoons of butter, 
8 large potatoes chopped fine; season with finely cut parsley, pepper 
and salt to taste. Simmer about \ hour, and serve hot. 

LIMA BEAN SOUP — Soak a pint of dried Lima beans over 
night; turn off the water in the morning, and put on the fire to boil 
slowly for 2 hours, with 3 pints of water; then rub through a colan- 
der. Put in the kettle again and add a pint of milk or cream, and 
thicken with a lump of butter rolled in flour. When it boils, add the 
beaten yolks of 2 eggs. Season with pe^jper and salt, and serve with 
a roll at each plate. Time, about 2^ hours. 

BEAN PORRIDGE — Soak over night a quart of any kind of 
good beans, such as are used for baking; boil them the next morning 
in plenty of water, until they begin to break in pieces; then drain, 
and add them to any good broth of fresh or salted meat, with a few 
slices of salt pork cut in dice. Cook and stir them often, until they 



VEGETABLE SOUPS 33 

are all broken fine. This is a most nutritious soup to keep constantly 
on hand in winter, when milk is scarce; it is inexpensive, for the 
broth of all salted meats and "boiled dinners" can be used in prepar- 
ing it. It is more easily digested than baked beans, being less con- 
centrated food. Of this soup it was said in " olden times;" 

"Bean liorridge hot. bean porridge cold, 
Bean porridge is the best when nine days old." 

CABBAGE SOUP.— Cut a small cabbage in quarters; carefully 
take apart and wash ; then chop finely. About | hour before dinner 
add it to 2 quarts of stock, or broth, in which meat has been boiled; 
let it boil until dinner time, when the cabbage will be done. Serve 
with toasted bread. 

CARROT SOUP {a la Cressy). —Vnt a piece of butter the size 
of an egg into the frying-pan, and when melted, add 1 large onion 
cut finely, a slice of ham cut in little squares, a teacup of chopped 
celery and 10 grated carrots Stew over the fire until the vegetables 
begin to brown, then add 2 quarts of stock, and simmer for 2 hours. 
Rub all through the coarse colander, put back into the kettle to re= 
heat, and season with pepper and salt. Serve with a few dice of 
toasted bread in the tureen. This is good made with 3 pints of 
water, adding a pint of milk or cream when it is redieated. Time 
about 2| hours. 

CELERY SOUP.— Break apart, and carefully clean 2 bunches 
of celery; then cut it finely and boil in just water enough to cover it, 
until it is soft enough to rub through a coarse colander; scald 3 pints 
of milk and add to the celery, and the water in which it was boiled, 
with half a small onion cut finely if liked; then rub together a table- 
spoon each of butter and flour and stir it in the boiling soup, season 
with salt and pepper to taste, and serve with strips of toasted bread 
without butter, or with browned crackers. Tiinc, about 1 hour. 

CELERY CREAM SOUP.— Take 3 lbs. veal, and let it simmer 
slowly in 2 quarts of water till reduced one=half; when cold it will 
make a jelly-like white stock. Take some celery, cut the best parts 
small, and cook it until tender in this stock; now put it through a 
colander first, and then through a coarse sieve, and it will make a 
kind of paste; return this to the saucepan, add 2 pints of cream, sea- 
son with pepper and salt, and let it simmer 10 minutes, stirring it 
often. It is excellent. 

GREEN CORN SOUP. — Grate sweet^corn from 6 ears, and 
boil the cobs in sufficient water to cover them; remove them after 10 



34 VEGETABLE SOUPS 

minutes boiling, and use the water in which they are boiled to stew 
the grated corn; just before it is time to serve, add 1 quart of rich, 
sweet milk, letting it boil a few minutes. Season well with pepper 
and salt. Time, about ^ hour. 

CUCUMBER SOUP. — Peel the cucumbers (they must be young 
enough to have small, fine seeds) and put in a kettle to boil in a pint 
of water; when soft, rub through a fine colander and return to the 
kettle, with a little onion if liked, and seasoning to taste. Add 
enough sweet milk to make a quart; when hot, add a little corn= 
starch, or arrowroot to thicken it, and serve with toasted bread. 

FLEMISH SOUP. 

5 heads of celery. 2 quarts of water. 

1 pint of cream. 10 medium sized potatoes. 

2 small onions. 

Slice the onions, celery and potatoes, and put them in a stew-pan, 
with just sufficient water to cover them, and stew them until they 
can be rubbed through a fine colander. Return to the kettle with 
the water, and let it boil up; season with salt and white pepper, or a 
little curry powder; have the cream scalding hot, in a pitcher stand- 
ing in hot water, and add to the soup just before serving. If onion 
is disliked, 2 small carrots may be substituted for the onions. Make 
^ the quantity if desired. 

OKRA OR QUMBO SOUP.— The foundation for this should be 
stock, or broth made of a chicken, or, what is better even for any 
cliich-('ii soup, an old fowl. Carefully pluck, draw, singe and wash the 
fowl ; cut it in pieces, cover with cold water, put on to boil up, skim, 
and then place the kettle where it will slowly cook. A little salt may 
be added if the fowl is young, but if old, simmer for an hour before 
adding the salt. When the fowl is done, take up the breast, thighs 
and legs, which can be served with a sauce for dinner, or made into 
salad; then slowly cook the remainder of the fowl to " rags," after 
adding pepper, a little sweet herbs, and a trifle of cayenne, and an 
even teaspoon of powdered sassafras leaves. Strain through the fine 
colander and return to the kettle. Add a few slices of salt pork, if 
the fowl was lean, then wash and slice a quart of green okra and add 
to the soup; cook until the pork and okra are done. Serve with 
boiled rice, boiled onions and rolls or bread. 

ITALIAN SOUPS.— These are made by adding to hot stock, either 
macaroni, vermicelli, semolina, or other Italian pastes. They should 
be boiled for 10 or 15 minutes in water to cover them, before adding 




VEGETABLE SOUPS 35 

them to the stock. Macaroni and vermicelli are best cut in short 
pieces about ^ inch long, before being added to soup. 

JULIENNE SOUP.— For a soup to serve for 5 or 6 persons, take 2 
or 3 middling=sized carrots (only the red parts), a middling=size tur- 
nip, a piece of celery^root, the core of a lettuce, some sorrel leaves, an 
onion, the white of half a leek. Rasp, peel or pluck these vegetables 
according to their nature; wash, drain them, and 
mince them to "Julienne," that is, cut them in thin 
fillets about an inch long; carrots, turnip, celery 
and leek, all in equal lengths. Fry the onion and 
leek in a little butter, then add the carrots, tur- 
nips and celery, raw if tender, if not, blanch them. 
Season with salt and a little sugar, and add 2 
quarts of good stock. Let it simmer for ^ hour 
before serving. leeks. 

The Leek belongs to the same order as the shallot, gar- 
lic and onion. It possesses similar properties to the onion. It is very succulent 
and wholesome, but to prevent tainting the breath it should be well boiled. 

MOCK BISQUE SOUP — Take -i can of tomatoes cook until ten- 
der, and strain; cook 2 pints milk in a double boiler, and in a small 
sauce=pan cook 2 teaspoons of corn=starch and 1 tablespoon of butter, 
adding enough of the hot milk to make it pour easily; now stir this 
into the boiling milk carefully, and boil about 10 minutes. Cut 4 
tablespoons of butter in small pieces and add it, mixing it well, and 
add also the strained tomatoes, ^ saltsj)oon of white pepper, and 1 
teaspoon of salt; serve hot. Before straining the tomatoes, if they 
are very acid, | saltspoon of soda will improve them, by neutralizing 
the acid. 

MUSHROOM SOUP — Cut a hip of veal in rather large pieces 
and break the bones; allow to each pound a little less than a quart of 
water. Season with salt, pepper, and | dozen blades of mace. 
Boil until the meat falls to pieces; then strain into a.clean soup pot. 
Have ready a quart of mushrooms, peeled and divested of their 
stems; put them into the soup, adding ^ pound of butter divided into 
bits, each bit rolled in flour. Boil until the mushrooms are tender,- 
about 20 to 30 minutes; keep closely covered; have toasted bread in 
small pieces in the soup=tureen, and pour the soup over it. 

NOODLE SOUP — Beat the yolks of 2 eggs until light; add flour 
and a little salt. Mould very stiff, then roll thin, and cut in narrow 
strips, about an inch long. Put in boiling water for 10 minutes, 
then in cold water for 3 minutes, Add this to 3 pints of hot stock, 



36 VEGETABLE SOUPS 

ONION SOUP. — Put a piece of butter the size of an egg into 
a sauce pan, or spider, and slice 1 medium sized onion into it; let 
it fry until a delicate brown. Put in 1 (^uart of stock or hot water, 
with herbs if liked, salt, white i^epper, and a dust of cayenne. 
Strain into the tureen, add 3 crackers, halved and well toasted, and 
send to the table. 

PALESTINE SOUP.— Peel and slice a quart of Jerusalem arti- 
chokes, 4 onions and 1 head of celery. Have 3 pints of water in the 
soup^kettle, or white veal stock or broth; add the vegetables, with 
pepper, salt, a bit of butter and a teaspoon of sugar; boil till tender, 
nil) through the fine colander, and return to the kettle to keep hot; 
add a pint of cream, and send to the table hot, with croutons. Time, 
about 1 hour. 

CANADIAN PEA SOUP.— Put a quart of whole hard peas, or 
split X)eas, in 2 quarts of cold soft water, and set on the fire in the 
morning. Let it boil, and as soon as the peas begin to soften, mash 
with a longdiandled iron spoon, as much as possible, and skim off 
the skins as they rise to the top of the kettle. About 10 o'clock add 
to the peas a pound or more of salt pork, and if liked, a small onion 
cut finely. Boil together until noon, then take out the pork, add a 
little salt if needed, and a bowlful of bread, finely shaved from the 
loaf, which thickens the soup and prevents the peas from settling to 
the bottom of the tureen. This is a most nutritious and palatable 
soup. The pork can be served in thin slices, with vegetables, and 
chili sauce, or sour baked apples. 

GREEN PEA SOUP.— Into the broth in which a leg of lamb has 
been boiled, put the shells of a quart of tender young peas; let them 
boil in the broth for |- hour, then strain out the shells and put in the 
peas to boil 20 minutes longer. Serve with any "soup=addition" 
liked. 

POTATO SOUP.— Slice 6 large potatoes and boil until tender; 
mash line and rub through a colander into the soup kettle; add 2 
quarts of sweet nnlk. When it comes to boiling, add noodles 
already boilinl in salt water. Season the soup to taste and serve. 

PUMPKIN SOUP.— Peel the pumpkin and cut into pieces (re- 
moving the seeds). Put it into boiling water with some salt, and 
leave it to boil until reduced to a pulp thin enough to pass through 
a strainer. Melt a piece of butter in a saucepan with a wine-glass 
of cream. Strain the pulp and add, with salt and pepper to taste, 
and a pinch of flour. Let the whole simmer J hour, thickeu with 
the yolk of an egg, and serve, 



VEGETABLE SOUPS 37 

RICE SOUP.— Put a piece of butter the size of an egg and 1 
cup of bread crumbs in a skillet, and fry them as thoroughly brown 
as possible without burning. When sufficiently browned, pour on 
3 quarts of boiling water, and add a pint of rice, a head of finely 
cut celery, and a little salt. Stew all together until the rice is ten- 
der. Add a cuj) of rich milk or cream, and serve. Half the above 
quantity will serve a small family. 

SAGO SOUP. — Wash | cup of sago in warm water, set it in a 
saucepan with 2 quarts of milk, and simmer until the sago is thor- 
oughly dissolved; season with ■ pepper and salt, and add a cup of 
cream before serving Good clear stock is generally used for both 
sago and tapioca soup, but they are even nicer made with milk. 

FOR SEMOLINA, MACARONI AND VERMICELLI SOUP, see 

"Italian Soups."' 

FRENCH SORREL SOUP.— Take a large handful of garden 
sorrel; wash thoroughly, and cut finely with shears, and add some 
lettuce leaves and sweet herbs, also finely cut. Drain thoroughly on 
a sieve, then put them in a frying=pan with butter already melted, 
and fry, stirring with a spoon. After about 10 minutes of cooking 
in this way,, put in the soup-kettle, with 2 quarts of 1)oiling water, 
and add salt, white pepper, and bits of butter well 
rolled in flour. Serve rolls with the soup; hard ^ 

l)oiled eggs, sliced into the tureen, are an addition :^J^. 

much liked. 

The Sorreu (Ritmex Acefosa) is a hardy pereimia., 
which grows in Europe, Asiatic Russia and North America. 
It grows in any good garden soil, and when fully grown, the 
leaves ara gathered singly, and they are used to flavor soups, 
salads and sauces. Sorrel was known to the Romans, who 
sometimes stewed it with mustard, and seasoned it with a 
little oil and vinegar. It is not much used in English and 
American cookery, but is used considerably in France. Its 
acid, which is very pronounced, is a combination of oxalic 
acid with potash, called by chemists, binoxalule oi jjotasli. sokcel. 

TAPIOCA SOUP.— Make like sago soup, given above,^ only the 
tapioca must be soaked for at least | hour in warm water before 
being put into the milk. 

TOMATO SOUP.— Put 1 quart of tomatoes in 1 quart of boiling 
water and let them cook thoroughly; set 1 quart of milk in a pitcher 
or tin, into a kettle or pan of hot water to scald. When the tomatoes 
are done, add a teaspoon of soda, and when foaming ceases, add the 
hot milk with a generous lump of butter; salt and pepper to taste. 
Cream may be added instead of butter, and more milk and less 




VEGETABLE SOUPS 



water used if desired. Brown a few crackers, roll fine and add to 
the soup. Serve with small j)ieces of dry toast without butter. 
Time, about 30 to 40 minutes. 

TOMATO SOUP No. 2. — One pint of canned tomatoes, or 4 
raw ones, cut finely; add 1 quart of water and cook thoroughly — 
about ^ hour; then add 1 teaspoon of soda, which causes it to foam. 
Immediately add 1 pint of sweet milk with a little salt and butter. 
When this boils, add 8 small crackers, rolled fine, and serve. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP — Soak over night 1 pint of black 
beans. The next day boil them in' 2 quarts of water, until soft 
enough to rub through a colander; return them to the soup-kettle. 
Ti-e in a bit of strainer cloth (which must be perfectly clean) a 
bit each of thyme, parsley and summer savory; let it boil in the 
soup. Add 1 tablespoon of butter, cut in bits and rolled in flour; 
also salt and pepper to taste. Cut the yolks of 
hard boiled eggs in quarters and add to the 
soup, with one sliced lemon. A good imitation 
of real turtle soup. 

The Thyme is a native of Spain and Italy, and was 
well known to the Romans. Its leaves possess an agree- 
able and highly aromatic flavor, and are used, in both a 
green and a dried state, to season soups, sauces, stutfings, 
etc., but a little of it goes a long ways. The Lemon Thyme 
is a variety of the wild thyme, remarkable for its smell, 
which closely resembles the rind of a lemon. 

LEMON THYME. 

VEGETABLE MARROW SOUP.— Pare and cut in quarters a 
large vegetable marrow, and remove the seeds from it. Dissolve a 
slice of fresh butter in a stew pan, and put in the 
marrow with a little salt, pepper, a lumj) of loaf 
sugar and a little nutmeg. Stew in water to cover 
it until it will pass through a fine colander, or 
hair-sieve; then add enough scalding hot milk to 
make it the consistency of cream; serve with fried 
bread cut in small dice. 

Vegetable Marrow belongs to the gourd tribe, and was 
first introduced from Persia. It has a delicate flavor and is 
easily digested. One of the simplest and best ways of cook- 
ing is to boil them and serve with a sauce poured over them. vegetable marrow. 

VICTORIA SOUP.— Wash and scald | pound of pearl barley; 
put it in the soup pot with 3 pints of white veal stock, and simmer 
gently over a slow fire for 1|- hours, by which time the barley will be 
nearly dissolved; remove ^ of it to a small soup^pot, rub the remain- 





MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 89 

der through a tammy or sieve, pour over the whole barley, add half a 
pint of cream season with a little salt, stir it over the fire until hot, 
and serve. 

This soup may be made with rice, and these were the only soups 
eaten by Queen Victoria during the time Francatelli was chef in her 
household. 

WHITE SOUP — White soup is in reality white sauce, only in 
larger quantities and not quite so strong. White soups, such as cel- 
ery, cauliflower, Palestine, potato, vegetable marrow, have all the 
same basis, viz., reduced stock and boiling milk, and only differ as to 
which stewed vegetable is rubbed through the wire sieve and added. 



MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS. 

ALMA MATER SOUP.— Take a sheep's head and pluck. 
Have the head cut in several pieces with a cleaver, wash thoroughly 
in salted water and put in the soup=kettle with a gallon of water; cut 
the liver and heart in slices, and fry brown in a little butter, then 
add to the soap; simmer gently until the bones separate from the 
meat; take from the fi_re, and remove all the bones from the meat; cut 
the meat in very small pieces, and return to the kettle; fill in with 
hot water to keep the gallon, add 1 teacup of pearl barley; season 
with 4 cloves, pepper, salt, and a bunch of sweet herbs; cut finely 2 
onions, 2 carrots, 1 turnip, and cook until the vegetables are done. 
Serve with forcemeat balls. 

BEEF SOUP. — Put 1 small beef bone in about 1 gallon of 
water; when it has simmered about 8 hours, add 4 potatoes, 2 tur- 
nips, 2 onions, and 2 tablespoons each of rice and barley; season 
with salt and white pepper, and boil 1 hour longer. Add one table- 
spoon of chopped celery just before serving. 

BOUILLON — For a party of 12, allow G pounds of beef cut 
finely, and 2 shinbones of beef well broken. Put over the fire with 
3 quarts of cold water, and bring to a boil. Skim thoroughly, and set 
back on the range to sinnner slowly for 5 hours; then strain through 
the fine colander. Remove every particle of fat, which can be done 
by drawing the edge of blotting paper across the bouillon. After the 
fat is removed, return to the kettle and retreat. Season with pepper 
and salt, and serve in bouillon cups (/. c, cups about the size of cof- 
fee cups, with 2 handles) when served at lunches. Cloudy bouillon 
is caused generally by rapid boiling and careless skimming. 




4U MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 

CLEAR SOUP. — Cut 4 lbs. lean beef into small pieces, carefully 
removing all the fat; pour on 1 gallon of water, and boil it up three 
times, skimming well each time; if not well skimmed, it will not be 
clear. Into each of 2 small onions stick 4 cloves firmly, scrape 2 
small carrots, and j)ut them into the soup; add 6 blades of mace, 1 
bunch of parsley and 1 teaspoon of celery seed, salt and pepper; boil 
until the vegetables are tender, strain through muslin, and return to 
the soup^pot; add the whites of 4 eggs, well beaten, and boil until 
they gather to one side; skim and tint it a delicate amber with a 
little caramel; wash the muslin, pour through again, and serve. 

Mace is the membrane which surrounds the nut- 
meg. This membrane is removed, and when dried 
and flattened it forms the mace of commerce. It con- 
tains about 4 per cent, of an aromatic oil, and its 
general properties are similar to the nutmeg. A 
coarse and inferior article from a different tree is 
sometimes palmed off for the genuine mace. 

CHICKEN SOUP. — This need not be made wholly of young 
spring chickens, for they are more valuable for roasting or broiling; 
but the remnants of raw chickens wdien used for fricassee or " chicken 
supreme," can be utilized in a soup, and if a large quantity of soup 
is needed, a few pounds of veal bones and cheai) veal trimmings may 
be simmered with the chicken, which will flavor them all. Let the 
soup=pot come to boiling; skim, and then set on the back of the 
range to slowly simmer for 3 or 4 hours, or until the meat drops from 
the bones. Season with salt and pejDper, or a little curry powder 
instead of pepper, and a soup bunch ; then simmer 10 minutes longer, 
strain through the cloth strainer, and return to the kettle. Thicken 
with a little corn-starch, and color and ilavor with caramel. Serve 
with oyster crackers. 

Chicken Soup No. 2. — Take the remnants of roasted chickens — the 
necks, wings, all the bones, and every part left from dinner the day 
previous; add water sufficient to cover it all; slowly simmer until 
the meat separates from the bones. Then add any gravy or rem- 
nants of dressing, and let it boil up once. For the remnants of 2 
chickens there should be 3 pints of soup; strain through cheese=cloth 
or fine colander, put the soup back into the kettle, add more season- 
ing if needed; thicken with bits of butter well rolled in flour; boil up 
once, and serve immediately. 

CHICKEN AND GUMBO.— Take a fair sized chicken, cut up as 
for fricassee, pick out the bones, and fry with -i lb. finely chopped 
bacon. Add 1 gallon water, 2 pints small okras, and the same of 



MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 41 

tomatoes; season highly with white pejjper, salt and cayenne, and 
simmer 4 hours. Put 1 tablespoon of boiled rice in each plate before 
serving, and pour the soup over it. 

Gumbo Fillet is made the same way, but seasoned more highly, and 
tender roots of young sassafras added. Green corn, cut from the 
cob, and lima beans are also added sometimes. 

CONSOMME. 

6 quarts of water. 2 turnips. 

2 carrots. 1 bunch of herbs. 

2 leeks. 2 old fowls. 

4 pounds of lean beef. 2 onions. 

Let it simmer slowly for 8 hours, or till it is reduced to 2 quarts. 
Observe the usual rule of skimming, straining and seasoning, and 
use for dainty appetites, with quenelles, or any garnish liked best. 

DUCHESS SOUP. — Put a quart of rich stock, or consommS, 
on the range to heat; when it comes to boiling, thicken it with a 
tablespoon of arrowroot, and then pour it into the tureen containing 
neatly cut lengths of roasted poultry or game. 

EQQ SOUP. — Break 6 fresh eggs into a bowl; add a pint of 
sweet cream and a little white pepper and salt; beat the eggs well and 
add the cream ; pour into a square tin well buttered, and place it in 
the oven in a dripping-pan of hot water, and bake about | hour. Let it 
get cold, then cut in small squares, put in the soup tureen, pour 2 
quarts of hot stock, or broth, over it, and send it to the table. Milk 
may be used instead of stock. This soup is rich and may be served 
with hot toasted crackers when the dinner is otherwise light. 

Egg Soup No. 2. — When you have a broth in which meat has been 
boiled, or poultry, even if thin and not transparent, a good soup may 
be made when eggs are plenty by boiling for 20 minutes, 4 eggs for 
every cj^uart of broth. Throw the eggs in cold water, and shell them. 
Have the broth well strained, and put it back in the kettle. Cut the 
whites of the eggs in rings, and pulverize the yolks with a fork on a 
plate (they should be mealy with the boiling) and add whites and 
yolks to the broth, also a few bits of butter well rolled in flour. Do 
not boil after the egg mixture is put in the kettle. 

EVERY=DAY SOUP. — Go in the pantry in the morning and put 
into the soup kettle all the nice meat bones, cold bits of meat, cold 
gravy, also any cooked vegetables left the day before. Get ready the 
meat for dinner, and j)ut the trimmings in the kettle. Season with a 
little salt, a few whole cloves, and a few pepper^corns broken in the 
mortar; add also a small onion cut finely. Put in the kettle enough 



4^ MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 

water to serve each person with -| pint of soup. Simmer all together 
until an hour before dinner; then strain and return to the kettle. 
Have ready, shrodded, and standing in cold water, some vegetable, 
either cabbage, turnips, carrots, asparagus, green peas or spinach, 
and add to the soup. When the vegetable is done, serve with rolls or 
bread. 

FLORENCE SOUP.— Put on to heat, 3 pints of white stock, 
beef, veal or chicken broth, and add the yolks of 3 eggs well beaten, 
and 1 cup of cream; boil 3 or 4 sticks of macaroni in salted water for 
10 minutes; cut in -| inch pieces and add to the soup; have the bot- 
tom of the soup tureen covered with grated cheese, pour over the hot 
soup, and serve. 

GAME SOUP.— This can be made of a squirrel, wild duck, rab= 
bit, partridge, 2 or 3 squabs (young pigeons) or any kind of game 
brought in, in too small a quantity for serving in any other way, and 
is a good souji for an invalid, or small family. Dress the game by 
skinning, if a quadruped, or, by picking, if a fowl or bird. Draw, 
and wipe clean with a wet cloth. Cut in small jDieces and boil gently 
2 or 3 hours, or until the meat separates from the bones; then take 
out the bones and season with pepper and salt. Cut a piece of butter 
the size of an egg, in small bits, roll each bit in flour; add, and let it 
boil for ^ minute, and serve with thin slices of bread laid on the bot- 
tom of the tureen. 

Game soup can also be made by one of our recipes for stock, 
using game instead of beef or other meat. 

HOTCH=POTCH SOUP.— Soak i pint of split peas over night 
and add ^ teaspoon of soda to the water; the next morning, turn off 
the water and rinse again; then put them to boil in 2 quarts of water; 
boil slowly 2 or 3 hours; then add a pound of beef or mutton, cut in 
small pieces, a carrot, a turnip, a small cabbage, an onion, all cut 
finely, and 3 or 4 large slices of salt pork. Add salt and pepper to 
taste, and cook until the meat is done, keeping it just covered with 
water. This is fine in a cold day in the winter, and is an inexpensive 
dinner by itself, without other meat. 

MEAT BROTH — Put the beef or mutton on in cold water and 
let it heat slowly; a scum will rise when it comes to the boiling point; 
remove this very carefully, then cover the pot, and keep it at a gentle 
simmer; from time to time lift the cover and skim till no more scum 
rises. Take out the meat when thoroughly cooked — in 2 or 3 hours. 
Set the meat in the oven to keep it warm, with the door of the oven 



MEAT, POULTRY AND GAME SOUPS 43 

open a little way. Have some thin slices of toasted bread well butter- 
ed, or some browned crackers in the tureen, and after pourins^ the 
broth through the cloth strainer, pour over the tureen and serve. 
Instead of the toast, a little chopped cabbage, boiled in a separate 
stew=pan can be added, or any other vegetable liked. 

MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. 

1 fowl or rabbit, or 2 lbs. of lean 2 large onions. 

beef or veal. A bit of garlic (or 2 or H 

1 bunch of herbs. cloves). 

2 tablesi3oons of curry powder. 2 quarts of cold water. 
Peal of 1 lemon. 

Cut the meat in small pieces and cover with the water; slice the 
onions, fry them brown in beef drippings, and put the onions, lemon 
peel, herbs, and cloves or garlic, with the meat, and simmer slowly 
for 5 hours, skimming well; then strain through the fine colander. 
Return to the kettle, add salt to taste and ground white pepper, and 
a teacup of rice. When the rice begins to break 
in pieces, add the juice of a lemon, and 2 table- 
spoons of curry powder. 

Mullagatawny means "pepper pot," and it is an Indian 
soup. It always requires to be well seasoned, and rice should 
be served with it. 

Garlic is an eastern plant which has been cultivated 
from ancient times. It belongs to the same family as the 
onion, and it posseses its properties in an intensified degree. 
It is much used in Italian, Spanish and French cookery, but 
very little in English and Americati. It is very wholesome, 
assists digestion, and acts as a slight stimulant and tonic. 
It possesses much medicinal value. As a rule in using garlic 
it is not chopped but the flavor is imparted simply by rub- 
bing; cut a little off the end of the garlic, and rub it on the garlic 
dish in which the food to be flavored is placed. 

MUTTON BROTH.— Take 2 lbs. of what is known as the scrags 
end of the neck of mutton; remove as much as possible every parti- 
cle of fat. Put it in a quart of cold water, with a slice of onion and 
a saltspoon of salt. Let it simmer very gently for 3 or 4 hours; skim 
occasionally. Strain off the broth and allow it to cool. Take off all 
fat, and warm up when required. When not required f(jr invalids, 
some chopped joarsley may be added to the broth, as well as other 
vegetables, such as turnips, carrots, or leeks. 

OXTAIL SOUP.— (i?/rA hcef soup).— Two shin-bones of beef well 
broken, and 2 beeftails cut in short pieces. Put in the soup kettle 
with 3 quarts of water. Let it come to a boil and carefully skim; 
then slowly simmer until the meat will separate from the bones. 
Take out the meat and bones with a skimmer into a pan, and cut the 




44 MEAT, POULTKY AND GAME SOUPS 

meat in small pieces, putting back the bones to simmer until an hour 
before dinner; then take out the bones again and add a carrot, a 
small turnip, a small onion, all cut finely, with herbs, salt and pepjDer 
to taste, and if preferred, a tablespoon of any of the ready-made meat 
sauces liked by the family. Fry the bits of meat a nice brown, in a 
little butter, and place in the bottom of the tureen; pour the souf) 
and vegetables over the meat and send it to the table. Serve with 
rolls, bread, or toasted crackers. The ingredients of this soup may 
be all simmered together for 4 or 5 hours, then strained through the 
cloth strainer. A tablespoon of corn-starch in a little water may be 
added for thickening, and a tablespoon of caramel sugar used for col- 
oring. Sufficient for 8. 

RABBIT SOUP. — Cut a young rabbit in small j)ieces and soak 
in water for an hour; then put in the soup pot, and cook until the 
meat separates from the bones. Take all the best meat, and return 
the remainder to the kettle, with a carrot, turnip, onion, and 2 or 8 
sticks of celery, all cut finely, with seasoning to taste, and simmer 
for 2 hours longer; then strain the soup and return to the kettle; add 
a piece of butter about the size of an English walnut, cut in pieces 
and rolled in flour, to thicken it. There should be 3 quarts of broth 
when done. Cut the meat in small pieces, put in the tureen, and 
pour over the hot rabbit soup. 

TURKEY SOUP. — After a turkey has been served for dinner 
and the meat has been taken from the carcass, break all the bones 
finely and put in the soup=kettle, with any remaining dressing or 
gravy, and add 3 quarts of water if the turkey was large — less for a 
small one. Let boil slowly for 2 or 3 hours; then pour through a 
coarse colander, and serve with toasted crackers. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP.— Scald a calf s head, and wash it clean. 
Boil in a large pot of water for -J hour, then cut all the skin off 
by itself; take the tongue out, take the broth made of a knuckle 
of veal, put in the tongue and skin, with an onion, ^ ounce each of 
cloves and mace, ^ a nutmeg, all kinds of sweet herbs chopped fine, 
3 anchovies; stew it till tender; then take out the meat, and cut it in 
pieces 2 inches square; cut the tongue, previously skinned, in slices; 
strain the liquor through a sieve. Melt | lb. butter in a stewpan; 
put in ^ lb. flour; stir it till smooth; if at all lumpy, strain it; add 
the liquor, stirring it all the time; then add to the meat the juice of 
2 lemons. Season with pepper, salt and cayenne j)epper, pretty 
high; put in 5 meat balls, 8 eggs, boiled hard. Stew it 1 hour gently. 



FISH AND SHELLFISH SOUPS 45 

VEAL SOUP. — Into 4 quarts of water put a 3 lb. joint of 
veal, well broken, and set on the stove to boil. In a separate dish 
put ^ lb. of macaroni, with just water enough to cover it, and boil till 
tender; then add a little butter. Finally the soup should be strained, 
seasoned with pepper and salt, and afterwards add the macaroni and 
the water in which it was boiled. Many will find it an improvement 
to add 1 pint of cream, or rich milk, and celery flavor. 



FISH AND SHELL=FISH SOUPS. 

BOSTON SOUP. — Any kind of fish may be used for this dish. 
Chop 2 onions, and i^ut them with a jjiece of butter into a stew-pan 
and let them brown without burning. Then arrange the fish which 
has been previously cut into small pieces, in the pan. Add a small 
quantity of the best olive oil, a clove of garlic, a bayleaf, two slices 
of lemon, 2 tomatoes, and as much powdered saffron as will go on the 
point of a table=knife, and lastly the juice of the remainder of the 
lemon. ' Put in sufficient stock to cover the whole, and boil from 10 
to 20 minutes, skimming carefully the whole time. 
When ready, to serve, throw in a handful of 
chopped parsley. 

Bay Leaves are taken from a species of laurel, L. Nobil- 
is. It is a native of Asia Minor, but is cultivated as a 
handsome evergreen. The leaves are large, shining and 
lancesshaped. and are bitter, aromatic and narcotic. They 
are used b}' cooks and confectioners because of their agree- 
able flavor. Most of the dried figs imported into this 
country are packed in bay leaves. The laurel among the 
Greeks was sacred to Apollo, and from it the garlands 
were made which were jilaced on the heads of heroes and 
poets. 

'- THE BAY. 

BISQUE OF LOBSTER. Wash thoroughly with a brush, a 
small lobster, then remove all the solid meat and put it on ice. Break 
finely the shell and claws of the lobster, and put it 'in the soupdvet- 
tle with enough water to cover it. Cut finely, and add a small carrot, 
1 head of celery, and a very small onion or bit of garlic, with herbs,- 
salt and white pei:)per, to taste. Boil 1 hour and then strain; put 
back in the kettle and add 3 pints of stock. Set it on the range 
where it will keep hot but not boil, as boiling causes it to curdle. 
Just before serving^ cut the meat of the lobster in small pieces and 
fry brown in a little butter, and place in the bottom of the tureen. 
Add to the bisque the juice of \ a lemon, and a dust of cayenne pep- 




46 FISH AND SHELLFISH SOUPS 

per, and pour over the meat in the tureen. Serve with a French roll 
at each plate, or with browned crackers. 

CLAM SOUP.- Put 25 clams in boiling water for a few minutes. 
Then open them and save the liquor that comes from them; add to it 
an equal quantity of water, 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, 1 chop- 
ped onion, butter the size of an egg, cut in bits and rolled in 
flour; pepj)er and salt to taste, 2 well beaten eggs and the choi)i)ed 
clams, adding lastly 1 j)int of milk. Boil 10 minutes. A very nice 
soup. (It is better to add the eggs to this soup the last thing before 
taking up, as the egg is apt to curdle, if boiled.) 

NEWPORT CLAM CHOWDER.— Wash the clams thoroughly 
with boiling water, and let them stand 10 minutes, when they can 
easily be removed from the shell. Cut ofl* the black heads and put 
the bodies in a clean dish. For a peck of clams use 8 large potatoes, 
peeled and sliced thin, and | an onion cut in small pieces. Cut ^ 
pound of salt pork into small pieces and fry brown. Put the onion 
and potatoes into the kettle with the pork, with a tablespoon of salt, 
a little pepper and |- a cup of flour shaken in; strain on this 4 quarts 
of the water in which the clams were scalded, and let all boil 15 min- 
utes; then add the clams, 6 crackers split, ^ cup of tomato sauce; 
cook 10 minutes longer, and serve. 

SALT CODFISH SOUP.— Take a piece of codfish the size of the 
hand, scald, skin, and pick in small pieces, and put in a kettle with a 
quart of water; soak, and change the water until it is fresh enough; 
then add 1 pint of cream and 1 pint of water and let it come to boil- 
ing. Serve it with buttered, toasted crackers. 

FISH SOUP.— Take any kind of fresh fish liked best— about 2 
pounds for 8 quarts of water. Cut in small pieces and put in the 
soup=pot — skin, bones and all with a large onion, sliced, a bunch of 
parsley, a sliced lemon, with a little salt and white pepper. Cook to 
rags; then strain through the cloth strainer, and return to the kettle. 
Add a heaping tablespoon of corn=starch wet in half a teacup of 
water; let it come to boiling, and serve with quenelles, if desired. 
Time, about 2 hours. 

FISH SOUP No. 2 — Take a fish that weighs about 2 pounds; 
cut enough slices for the fryingpan, and put the remainder, with the 
bones, in the soui)=kettle, with an onion if liked, a sliced lemon, a 
bunch of parsley, salt, and white pepper. Simmer together for an 
hour; strain and return to the kettle, and add ^ pint of cream, and 
enough hot water to make 3 pints of soup, Fry the fish cutlets in 



FISH AND SHELL FISH SOUPS 47 

butter, and add to the soup, or serve on a platter instead of meat on 
a fast day. If the fish is not added to the soup, serve it with nood- 
les. Time, about 1^ hours. 

OYSTER SOUP. — Put a pint of small oystesr with their liquor 
in a quart of boiling water and let them become plump; then take 
them out with a skimmer, rinse thoroughly in warm water, and be 
sure there are no bits of shell adhering to them. Strain the 
soup=water through the cloth strainer and return to the kettle. Let 
it come to a boil, add a little white pei^jser and a very little cayenne, 
with a piece of butter the size of an egg, cut in bits and rolled in 
flour. Boil a minute after this, then pour over the oysters in the tu- 
reen and serve with small crackers, or large crackers split, and 
browned in the oven. A richer soup is made by leaving out one pint 
of water and substituting one pint of cream. 

SPANISH SOUP. — Slice and shred 2 large onions and fry in 2 
tablesx^oons of salad-oil until the onions are quite yellow; then add a 
dessert-spoon of Spanish sweet red pepper, a little salt and a quart of 
good stock, or water; boil together for 3 minutes; then add small 
slices of any kind of fish most agreeable or convenient; boil these for 
a few minutes and serve with the crusts of a round French roll fried 
in a little oil and butter. The slices of fish may be removed to a 
platter, covered with one of the fish sauces, and served as a course 
separate from the soup. 



FISH. 

EISH has been an important article of food in all ages and in 
all countries. Although less nourishing and stimulating 
than meat, it has much nutritive value. Its abundance and 
cheapness commend it, and it should be used freely in the 
season when it is best and cheapest. 

The flesh of fish when in season, /. e., before spawning, is solid 
and boils firm and curdy. It should be used as fresh as possible, as 
it soon spoils. White ileshed fish are the most easily digested, and 
the oily varieties like mackerel, salmon and eels, are the most difficult 
of digestion. White fleshed fish is the most delicate, and the red 
fleshed and oily kinds the most nourishing. Fish is highly nitrog- 
enous, and requires an abundant use of starchy food in combination 
with it, to supply a sufficient amount of heat=giving material; and, 
owing to the lack of oil in the white fleshed varieties, they are best 
cooked in fat. Lemon juice or vinegar (being acid) are excellent as 
an accompaniment, or in the sauces, for fish and shelhfish, because of 
the alkaline nature of their juices. It is essential to the wholesome- 
ness of fish that they should be thoroughly cleaned and cooked. 

The popular idea that fish aid brain and nervous development because of the 
phosphorus they contain is wholly erroneous. There is no relation between the 
amount of phosphorus passing through the system and the intensity of thought. 
It is not because of the phosphorus they contain that fish, oysters and eggs, are 
suitable for students, but because they are easily digested, and those leading sed- 
entary lives do not need the hearty food suited to a day=laborer, besides which they 
are adapted to those on whose nervous energies there are large drains because of 
the large amount of nitrogenous material which they contain. It should also be 
said that fish contains no larger per cent, of phosphorus than meat. 

Cleaning Fish. — Fish should be cleaned as soon as possible after 
being caught. Make an incision in the under side from the gills half 
way down, and take out the insides; carefully remove the thin black 
membrane lining the cavity, as it is apt to impart a bitter flavor 
to the whole fish if it is left. It is best to remove the white part ad- 
hering to the bone, called the sound, although some people leave it. 
Do not cut off the tail and head if it is to be served whole. Scrape 
from the tail toM^ards the head to remove the scales; take out the 
eyes, and wash in strongly salted water; dry carefully, and wrap a 
cloth sprinkled with salt around it, and keep near the ice. The salt 
checks the outflow of the juices. Handle the fish as little as possible, 
and do not wash it too much (one water is visually enough) and do 

48 




coNMOH ■mouT 







FISH 49 

not let the fish soak in the water, as that will extract the juices 
and detract from its value. Keep fish in a cool place near the ice, 
but do not let ice touch it, as that will soften and injure, if it does 
not spoil it. Do not keep fish in the ice chest, as it will taint any- 
thing like milk or butter. Keep any fish left after the meal in the 
same way. 

To Skin a Fish. — Cut a narrow strip along the backbone, using a 
sharp knife, and removing the fin on the back; then run up the knife 
through and under the bony part of the gills and peel the skin off 
backwards toward the tail, holding the bony part of the gills with the 
thumb and finger; then peel ofp the skin from the other side in the 
same manner, and throw it away. 

To Bone a Fish — Fish like herring and shad, abounding in fine 
bones, are not boned, but whitefish, mackerel, cod, etc., can be boned 
as follows: Clean, skin and spread it out flat on a board; then begin 
at the tail, and run a sharp, thin knife under the flesh, close to the 
bone, and loosen the backbone with the forefinger. Take pains not 
to break the flakes, and when the flesh on one side is loosened, slip 
the knife under the bone on the other; when all the bone is loosened, 
IDull it from the flesh. Any small bones remaining in the flesh can 
be felt and removed with the fingers. 

Hints. — The earthy or muddy taste which taints some kinds of 
fresh water fish can be removed by rubbing on salt and letting them 
stand a few hours or over night; or, if in a hurry, soak them in salted 
water |- to 2 hours. 

If fish are dipped in hot water for a minute, they will scale 
much easier. To remove scales, there is no instrument equal to a 
currycomb — it is everyway superior to a knife. The scales and en- 
trails should be removed, and also the blood and white skin along the 
backbone, as soon after the fish is caught as possible; then rinse, 
wipe dry, and keep near ice. Keep the eggs, or fish roe, and cook it 
with the fish. 

The quickest and best way to freshen salt fish is to soak it in 
sour milk. As salt will settle, put the fish flesh side down, then the 
salt as it dissolves out of the fish will settle in the bottom of the pan. 
If the skin side is down the salt will settle against the skin and be 
retained in the fish. All fish lose nourishing power by being salted. 

Salted fish and canned fish, oysters, lobsters etc., can be kept in 
the store=room against an emergency, but great care must be taken 
in the case of canned meats, fish, lobsters, and vegetables, that the 
4 



50 FISH 

brands selected are put up i a j>/nv' //;i cans; a mixture of lead with 
the tin is sometimes used, the oxide of which is })oisonous. All the 
contents of a tin can when opened should be innnediately reuKJved 
into an earthen or ylass dish, as oxidation proceeds rapidly after 
the can is opened, and the inside, with its contents, exposed to the 
action of the air. 

The knives and spoons used about fish should not be used for 
other food till well cleaned, as they will impart a fishy fiavor to it. 
Hub steel knives or forks with fresh lemon or orange peel to take off 
the fishy taste. 

To thaw out frozen fish, put it in cold water, and leave it until it 
is flexible and the frost is all drawn out; then dress and cook at once. 

Fish, if kept near ice and very cold, retains much of its fresh- 
ness, but if once heated, its delicate flavor cannot be restored. Fish 
that is not quite fresh can be improved by washing in vinegar and 
water, or permanganate of potash and water. It is afterwards better 
fried than boiled, but no dressing will entirely conceal its quality. 
Fish i^urchased in the market should l)e used the same day if pos- 
sible. 

The garnishing of fish is an art, if nicely doue. Celery tops, horse- 
radish, common radishes, water-cresses, parscly, nasturtium flowers, 
sliced lemons and red pickled beets, cut in fanciful shapes, are 
among the most effective and popular things to use. 

Methods of Cooking Fish. —Broiling a fish best retains its nourish- 
ing qualities; baking is next, while boiling retains the least — in fact, 
boiling is the least desirable way of cooking them. Small fish are 
usually fried; those of medium size broiled and baked, and the larg- 
est can be boiled. 

As the directions for fri/iiuj, hoUiiuj, siciriii;), Jn-oiliiu/ and bdk- 
iiig fish apply to nearly all kinds, we will give these methods quite 
fully, instead of describing the same method over and over again for 
each different kind of fish. Anyone who masters the process, can 
easily cook any fish adapted to that way of cooking. 

TO BOIL FISH. 

When boiling fish, to have the water bubble is worse than 
useless, as it cracks the skin. If fish is x^ut into cold water 
at first, it, like meat, gets dry (see our article on the j)rin- 
ciples involved in cooking meat). A compromise is therefore made, 
and salt is added to the water (use about 1 oz. of salt to each quart 
of water ); it is well also to add about 1 tablespoon of vinegar or 



FISH 



51 




A FISH KETTLE. 



lemon juice to each 2 quarts of Avater, Vinegar or lemon juice are 
valuable because albumen coagulates sooner when in contact with an 
acid, and they thus help to coagulate the surface albumen, and so re- 
tain the juices inside. Salt added to the water in which fish is 
cooked acts in 3 ways, as explained in the article on cooking meats. 
The old plan has been 
to put fish into cold 
water at first, but // /s- 
much better to put it 
into water as hot as 
the skin will bear 
without breaking, and 
this varies with each 
kind of fish. To 
break the skin is very 
undesirable , because 
it not only makes an 

unsightly appearance but each crack makes an opening through 
which the interior juices will escape. Any fish which is to be served 
without the skin on, like sturgeon or halibut, is best if put into boil- 
ing water. Fish having a thick, tough skin, can be put into water 
at the boiling point. Fish with delicate skins, like trout, mackerel, 
etc. should be i3ut into warm water — 140° to 150°. If a fish kettle is 
used, and a fish plate that can be taken up, there is no need of a 
cloth around the fish, but if it has to be boiled in a common kettle, 
it should be rolled in a piece of cloth (butter cloth is best) to keep it 
in shape, and it is likely to be broken when taken from the water, 
if the cloth is not used. Allow the fish to gently simmer, not actually 
boil, or the ou.tside will break into pieces before the inside is done. 
If water is to be added, do not pour it directly on the fish, as that is 
apt to break the skin; i^jur it gently in on one side of the kettle. 
Fish should always be jjut into the water in which it is to be cooked; 
if the water is poured upon it, it is apt to become broken. H should 
not be allowed to remain in the water after it is done; if it has to be 
kex)t hot, it should be taken up on a drainer, placed across the fish; 
kettle over the hot water, and covered with a soft cloth or flannel 
folded several times, to larevent its losing its color. - The reason for 
skimming is, that the scum will be likely to settle on the fish if that 
is not done, and give it an unsightly appearance. Save the liquor 
in which fish has been boiled, as it makes an excellent soup with a 
few cheap additions. 

Boiling is the least desirable way of cooking fish. 



52 FISH 

The Time of Boiling depends entirely on the freshness and 
thickness of the fish, and varies so much that no rule can be given; 
experience is the only guide. There are three reliable tests by which 
it can be ascertained if the fish has been sufficiently cooked: First, if 
the fins will pull out easily; second, if the skin of the fish is cracked; 
or, third, if a skewer passes easily when run into the fish close to the 
bone. Too long boiling makes fish " woolly " and tasteless. Fish 
should be well cooked to be digestible, but should not be overdone. 
White fish cook much more rapidly than meat. All dark fleshed fish 
require more boiling than the white- fleshed kinds. Salmon needs 
about 10 minutes to each lb. Haddock, cod, etc. only need 2 or 3 
minutes to the lb. Mackerel needs about \ hour. Bass or sheeps- 
head, of 4 or 5 lbs., will boil in about 10 minutes. Herring and 
many similar fish, in 6 or 8 minutes. 

An Court Bouillon is a term applied when white wine or vine- 
gar and onions and spices are used to flavor the water in which the 
fish is boiled. 

A la bonne eau is a term applied when the fish is simmered in a 
little water made savory with herbs, and the water in which it is 
cooked is generally served with it. When sea water is used the 
fish is said to be a V Hollundaise. 

Au bleu is the term aj^plied when red wine and vinegar are used 
in the water in which the fish is boiled, and it is also strongly im- 
pregnated with herbs, The fish is then generally served cold. Only 
the best kinds of fish are thus treated. 

All boiled fish should have a good sauce served with it. Hollan- 
daise and sauce piquante go well with salmon, oyster, lobster, and 
shrimp; and drawn butter, egg, pickle, etc., with other fish. Serve 
the sauce in a sauce-boat unless the fish breaks and looks badly, in 
which case the bones can be taken out, the fish flaked, piled on a 
platter lightly, and the sauce poured over it. 

Gcwnish boiled fish with slices of lemon or hard boiled eggs, 
parsley, button mushrooms, fried oysters, sliced j)ickles, Saratoga 
potatoes, etc. 

STEAMED FISH. 

An excellent way to cook fish is to thoroughly clean, remove 
the head, skin and tail, rub with salt and lemon juice, and cook in a 
steamer, over boiling water, instead of boiling it. In many respects 
it is better than boiling. When done, serve on a platter on which a 
folded napkin is laid, pile Saratoga potatoes around it, and garnish 
with parsley, slices of lemon or hard boiled egg. Serve a good sauce 
in a sauce boat with it. 



PISH 53 

Time to steam, about 20 minutes for moderate sized fish, and 
longer for large ones. 

STEWED FISH. 

Cut the fish in small pieces and sprinkle on salt; then in ^ pint 
of water boil one onion (sliced) and when cooked, j)our ofp the water; 
then add 1 cup water, the juice of -| a lemon, \ teaspoon salt, a salt= 
spoon of pepper, and a sprig of parsley or other herbs. Boil the fish 
in this till done, and serve very hot. Rub to a cream 1 teaspoon of 
butter and 1 large teaspoon of flour, and thicken the gravy with it. 
Any fresh water fish can be thus stewed. 

Time to stew, about 20 minutes. 

TO BROIL FISH. 

Clean the fish properly and either rub it with vinegar or dry it 
and dredge it with flour. Salt and pepper is all that is really neces- 
sary to apjDly to oily fish before broiling them, but salad oil or butter 
should be first spread over dry, white fish. Fish is sometimes soaked 
in marinade previous to broiling, as it improves the flavor. The 
French steep it in olive oil flavored with spices. 

Large fish need a moderate fire so as not to burn the outside 
before the inside is done; they are best si^lit, in order to cook them 
through well, or else make notches at equal distances on the sides to 
admit the heat. Small fish need a clear hot fire, and may be cooked 
whole. The gridiron should always be well greased. As the skin 
burns easily, the flesh side should be cooked first to a golden brown; 
then turn and broil the skin side until it is crisp. A double wire 
gridiron is easily turned, but the best way when an old style iron or a 
single gridiron is used, is to take a knife and separate any part that 
sticks; then with one hand hold a platter over the fish, and with the 
other, turn over the gridiron; the fish will then be on the platter and 
can easily be returned to the gridiron without breaking. When done, 
sprinkle on salt and pepper, and, using a knife, spread a little butter 
over it, and then put it in the oven a moment to let it soak in. A 
Maifre <V hotel or other good sauce can be used with it. 

All oily fish, like mackerel, herring etc., are better broiled than 
fried. 

The pieces of fish are sometimes wrajjped in a piece of oiled 
paper before being broiled, when very delicate broiling is desired. 
The paper must be very thoroughly oiled or buttered, but no oil 
should drop on the fire, and a very clear fire is needed. 

A gridiron that has cooked fish needs most thorough cleaning. 



54 FISH 

Remember that the secret of having dry, white fish, nice, is to 
rub them with salad oil or melted butter before broiling them. 

Time to Cook. — This depends largely on the size. Small fish will 
broil in 5 to 10 minutes, while larger ones will need 15 to 20 min- 
utes. 

BROILED SALT FISH. 

Use any salt fish, and either soak it in cold water 24 hours, 
changing it 2 or 3 times, or if in a hurry use warm water and soak it 
a short time, changing the water and parboiling it slightly. When 
wanted for use, drain, dry, and broil briskly. Season with pepper, a 
little salt if needed, and pour on melted butter. 

Time to broil, about 10 to 12 minutes. 

MARINADE FOR BROILED FISH. 

Mix together 4 cup of salad oil, a chopped onion, the juice of a 
lemon or 1 tablespoon of vinegar, and a bunch of herbs. Scores 
1 inch apart are often made in the fish before putting it in the 
marinade. Let them soak in this -| hour. Many kinds of dry fish 
are much imi)roved by this treatment. 

TO FRY FISH. 

By frying fish we mean immersing it in hot fat. The fish 
should be well cleaned, dried with a soft cloth, and seasoned with 
pepper and salt; then rub it with flour, dij) it in beaten egg, and 
then sprinkle with fine bread or cracker crumbs; sometimes wheat 
flour or Indian corn meal are used, but fully cover the fish so that 
there are no cracks. Then fry it in smoking hot fat like doughnuts, 
and as directed elsewhere under " The Processes of Cooking." It 
should be fried a rich golden brown. A sheet of paper can be 
j)laced to receive it after it is fried, that it may be free from all 
grease. Some cooks lay it in the oven for a moment, and then serve. 

Tivie io Coolx. — A very little time is all that is needed to cook it 
(from 2 to 5 minutes) if the fat is the right temperature; a general 
mistake is to overcook it. 

Do not fry oily fish, like mackerel, salmon, etc. Halibut, cod; 
etc., can be skinned, boned, and cut into small pieces, and then 
fried. Fish which is very cold should l^e slightly warmed first, or it 
will chill the fat and become greasy. Fish thus fried is nicer than 
by the common method of frying in the frying pan; try it once, if 
you never have. 

Fish is also sometimes fried in batter. The fish should be dried, 
seasoned with pepper and salt, dipped in the batter, and cj,uickly put 



FISH 



55 



into the hot fat. The batter must be smooth and thick. As soon as 
the batter is of a bright golden color, take it out, and if the fish is 
thick, ijut it in the oven for a few minutes. The fat is more than 
100° hotter than boiling water, and the inside part of whatever is 
cooked in it goes on cooking after it is taken out of the fat. 

For frying in the frijing-pan or sauieing, butter is not desira- 
ble, as it scorches too easily and gives a bad odor to any fish that re- 
quires long cooking. Small brook-trout, however, are sometimes 
cooked in butter in the fryingpan. For ordinary sized pan^fish, or 
slices of large fish, the fat from a few thin slices of salt pork is excel- 
lent; the .thin scraps of fried pork are used witli other garnishing, 
around the fish on the platter. 

Gdrnish fried fish with parsley, lemon, pickle, etc., and serve 
with any acid sauce, like tomato or tartare. Small fish should be ar- 
ranged with heads and tails alternating. Arrange fillets in a circle, 
one overlapping the other. 

BAKED FISH. 

Clean, dry, and stuff the fish with one of the stuffings given be- 
low, and sew it. Long, narrow fish bake best if a trussing needle is 
run through the side of the 
head, then the middle of the 
body, and then the tail, in such 
a way as to form the fish into 
the shape of a letter S as shown 
in the accompanying illustra 
tion; it will then rest on its bel- 
ly while baking, instead of 
on its side. Shad or other 

short, broad fish, may be propped up on their bellies with peeled po- 
tatoes, or i^ieces of old bread. In order to lift the fish out easily 
when done, it is best to put the fish on an iron or tin baking sheet, 
with handles at the ends, and set that in the baking pan; if you have 
no such baking sheet, 2 broad strips of cotton cloth can be used to 
lift the fish out with, laying the cloth across the pan before putting 
in the fish. Grease the baking sheet well with salt pork fat, to keep 
the fish from sticking, and lout some pieces of pork under the fish al- 
so. Sprinkle it over with salt and joepper, rub on soft butter, and put 
narrow strips of pork in gashes cut across the back of the fish aliout 
2 inches apart. Dredge it well with flour, and bake in a hot oven 
until nicely browned, basting it often to prevent the skin from crack- 
ing. Remember that constant basting is essential to success. Some 




EAKEU I'liSH. 



56 FISH 

cooks put a little water in the bakiii<i: pan, but it is better not to do 
so, but use the pork fat to baste with. When done, lift it carefully 
and put it on a hot platter, take out the trussing needle or threads, 
and remove the salt pork. 

The best fish for baking whole are fresh shad, bass, cod, blue- 
fish, haddock and small salmon. 

Time to Bdkc. — This depends on the size and character of the 
fish, varying from ^ to 1 hour usually. A medium sized shad or cod 
should bake in |- hour. 

Garnisli with parsley, water cresses or Saratoga potatoes, and 
serve a drawn butter or Hollandaise sauce with it. 

Stuffing for Baked Fish. — Take 1 cup cracker crumbs, 1 teaspoon 
of salt, 1 saltspoon of pepper, 2 teaspoons of chopjied parsley, 4 ta- 
blespoons melted butter. If it is wanted more moist, wet the crack- 
er crumbs with -| cup of warm water, or with 1 beaten egg. This 
makes a stuffing for a fish weighing 4 to 6 lbs. 

Stuffing, No. 2. — Take bread crumbs, 1 well beaten egg, 1 table- 
spoon chopped suet, 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, 2 tablespoons 
minced onion, a little butter, pepper and salt. Stuff the fish, sew or 
tie up, and bake. 

Oyster Stuffing. — Prepare ^ pint of buttered cracker crumbs; then 
take 2 cups oysters, roll each one in the cracker crumbs (draining 
them first) and fill the fish with them; sprinkle the oysters with the 
balance of the crumbs, sew up the fish, and bake. 

Oyster Stuffing, No. 2. — Season a pint of oysters with salt, red pep 
per and lemon juice; fill the fish with the oysters, sew up, and bake 
as before directed. 

FILLET OF FISH. 

This consists of the flesh of fish, skinned, boned, and cut into 
small strips. (The word fillet means literally a thread or string). 
These strips (fillets) are usually dredged with salt and pepper, 
dijjped in beaten eggs, rolled in crumbs, and fried like doughnuts in 
smoking hot fat. Time to fry, 1 or 2 minutes. On taking out lay 
them on paper a moment to drain. Serve on fried or toasted bread, 
or with a good fish sauce, like cream, tartar, or Hollandaise. The 
strips (fillets) are sometimes allowed to stand 1 hour, sprinkled with 
salt, pepper and lemon juice, and then baked, having melted butter 
in the pan and basting the fish with it When done, garnish and 
serve with a good fish sauce. 



FISH 57 

TURBAN OF FISH. 

This consists of fish prepared as directed above for fillets of fish, 
but the fillets (strips) of fish are rolled up and fastened with a small 
skewer, such as a wooden tooth pick. Then fry or bake as directed 
for fillets and serve the same way. 

PICKLED OR SPICED FISH. 

Use remains of any cold fresh fish, remove all skin and bones, 
put it in a deep dish, and add enough hot, spiced vinegar (prepared 
by boiling cloves and allspice in the vinegar for 10 minutes) to just 
cover. As soon as cold it can be used. 

FISH AU GRATIN. 

Cut an onion in small pieces, and fry it in 3 tablespoons of 
butter; skin and bone 2 lbs. fish, cut it in pieces, roll and dip it in 
flour, and fry it in the onion and butter, in a frying pan; let only 1 
side brown. Now i^our over the onions and butter, 1 tablespoon 
lemon juice or vinegar, 8 tables^Dooons beef gravy or good meat 
extract, 4 tablespoons of tomatoes just out of the can, and the liquor 
from 1 ijint of oysters. Sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, and 
here and there put bits of butter. Set the platter in the oven over a 
pan of hot water, to prevent the dish from breaking, and bake till the 
crumbs are brown. Season 1 jDint of raw oysters with red pepper, 
salt and lemon juice; x)ut them in a sauce^pan, and let them cook 
until they pufp up. Shake the i^an to keep them from burning, and 
when done, pour them around the fish. Shrimp or mushrooms may 
be used instead of oysters if more convenient. 

FISH BALLS. 

To 1 cup salt fish picked in ^Dieces and freed from bones, take 2 
cups x^otatoes i^eeled and cut in small pieces; put all in a pan .togeth- 
er, cover with boiling water and boil till the potato is soft but not 
soggy — about 25 minutes. Then drain, and mash and beat till ro'ij 
light; add a little pepper, 1 teaspoon of butter, and, when cooled a 
little, 1 well beaten egg, with a little more salt if needed.' Then 
shape it into balls with a tablespoon. In shaping them press very 
lightly; if pressed hard they will be injured or ruined. Then fry- 
like doughnuts in smoking hot fat about 1 minute; on taking out lay 
them on soft paper to drain. Or, if desired, the mixture can be fried 
till brown in a frying pan, with salt pork fat or butter, and then 
turned out like an omelet. These are delicious. 



58 FISH 

FISH CHOWDEE. 

Take three lbs. fish cut in pieces, 4 cups sliced potatoes and ^ lb. 
salt pork cut in thin slices. Fry the pork in a deep kettle till brown, 
but not burned; then over it put a layer of fish, then a layer of pota- 
toes well dredged with fiour, pepper and salt. Rei)eat alternate layers 
till all is used; then pour on hot water, not quite to cover, and boil 
till the i^otatoes are tender. In another saucepan heat 4 cups milk, 
and when the potatoes are tender add it to the chowder with one [leap- 
ing tablespoon of butter and | lb, fresh Boston crackers (if stale the}^ 
will spoil the chowder) having first split and soaked them a few 
minutes in warm milk or water Boil up once and the dish is done. 
The broth should be about the consistency of a thin cream soup. 
The best fish to use are cod, haddock or striped bass. A good way to 
serve it is to put the fish and potatoes on a large platter, with the 
crackers in a circle around, and then strain the broth and put in a 
soup tureen. This will make an entire dinner of itself (soup, fish and 
vegetables,) adding, to finish, a simple dessert or a little fruit. Time 
to cook about ^ hour. 

UTILIZING COLD FISH. 

CREAMED FISH. — LTse remnants of any cold fish left from din- 
ner, picking it to pieces and removing all bones. Make a .cream 
sauce by cooking 2 tablespoons of butter and two tablespoons flour 
until they bubble; then add 2 cups milk, 1 teaspoon salt, and pep- 
per or cayenne. Butter a pudding dish, put in a layer of fish, then 
a layer of the sauce, and so on alternately. Spread bread or cracker 
crumbs on top, add bits of butter, and bake about 20 minutes in a hot 
oven. A little parsley, onion or lemon juice can be added to the 
sauce for flavor if desired. 

CURRY OF FISH.— Use cold boiled or baked fish of any kind; 
pick it to pieces and remove all bones. In a little butter fry a 
sliced onion till quite brown; add 1 cup hot water and 1 teaspoon 
curry powder; then add 1 teaspoon of flour which has been mixed in a 
little cold water and freed from lumps. Then strain the sauce, put 
in the fish, heat till warmed through, and serve. 

ESCALLOPED FISH. — LTse remnants of any broiled, fried or 
baked fish left from dinner, picking the fish to pieces and removing 
all bones. Into a baking dish put alternate layers of the fish, and 
either mashed potatoes or cold boiled potatoes cut into small piec- 
es. Pour over a cream sauce made as directed for " Creamed Fish," 
and bake in a hot oven about | hour. 



FISH 59 

ESCALLOPED FISH No. 2 — Pick cold fish in pieces and remove 
all bones. Make a cream sauce as for "Creamed Fish." Into a pud- 
ding dish put a layer of fish, then a layer of bread or cracker crumbs; 
moisten it with the sauce, and season with salt and pepper, if needed, 
and put on bits of butter. Put in alternate layers in this way, fin- 
ishing with crumbs. Bake it in the oven till the crumbs are brown- 
ed on top — about 20 minutes. 

FISH CAKES. — Take remnants of any cold fish, pull them to piec- 
es, and thoroughly incorporate with them a little butter and some 
mashed potatoes; season the whole with pepi^er and salt to taste, 
and a little cayenne if desired. Form the mixture into cakes, and 
fry in smoking hot fat till of a golden brown. Serve garnished with 
j)arsley. Time to cook 1 or 2 minutes. 

FISH PIE. — Take any cold fish left from dinner, pick it into 
small pieces, removing all bones, and season with pepper and salt. 
Have a kettle of hot mashed potatoes, put half the potatoes into the 
bottom of a pudding dish, spread the fish on it, and cover . with the 
remainder cjf the potato. Smooth over the top and brown in the 
oven 10 minutes. 

FISH AND OYSTER PIE.— Take remnants of any cold fish, pick 
it in pieces, remove all bones, spread a layer in a pudding dish and 
sprinkle with pepper and salt; spread on a layer of bread or cracker 
crumbs and oysters and sprinkle with nutmeg and parsley, and so 
continue with alternate layers. Form a covering of either criimbs, 
which should be browned, or puff jDaste, which should be cut into 
long strips and laid in cross=bars over the fish, witli a line of the 
paste first laid around the edge, and bake. Before putting on the 
tojD, pour in some melted butter, or a little thin white sauce, and the 
oyster liquor. Time to bake, if of cooked fish, ^ hour; if made of 
fresh fish and puff paste, £ hour. 

RE=DRESSED COLD FISH.— Cut the fish into square pieces, 
and lay them neatly in a flat dish; then cover them with mayonnaise 
sauce. Garnish with parsley and sliced beet^root if you have it. 
White fish or salmon may be dressed in this way. 

POTTED FISH. 

Clean the fish, skin it, remove the larger bones, and cut it in 
pieces. Mix together 3 tablespoons each of cloves, allspice and pep- 
percorns, 1 saltspoon of cayenne, and | cup of salt. Into a small 
stone jar (not earthenware) pack the fish in layers, sjirinkling the 
mixture of sx3ices between the layers. Put in vinegar enough to 



60 FISH 

cover, tie a thick paper over the top, and bake 5 or 6 hours in a mod- 
erate oven. It will keep some time in a cool place (if kept under the 
vinegar), and can be eaten cold or hot, making a fine relish for tea or 
lunch. The bones will be dissolved by the vinegar. 

CRIMPING FISH. 

This consists in striking the fish on the head when caught, and 
then making a number of transverse gashes in it; the fish is then put 
in cold water which makes the muscular fibres contract strongly, and 
the flesh becomes firmer than would otherwise be the case. Cod are 
often crimped, and are then thought to be firmer, better flavored, and 
to keep longer than when uncrimped. 

CAVIAR. 

This is the hard roe of sturgeon and other fish preserved by 
washing in vinegar and salting. It is pretty extensively prepared 
and used as an article of food in Russia, but in this country is 
served principally as a relish at the table, the mode of serving it 
being on dry toast with lemon juice squeezed on it. It is generally 
disliked at first, but is highly esteemed by those in whom the taste 
has been cultivated. It is now quite extensively manufactured in 
the United States. 

ANCHOVIES. 

FRIED. — Slightly fry the little fish in their own oil; and serve 
them on thin fried toast. They make a nice accompaniment to the 
cheese course at dinner. 

ANCHOVIES ON TOAST.— Wash the fish in milk, dry them, 
remove the bones, and fillet them (each anchovy should make two 
fillets.) Put the fillets on nice strips of thin buttered toast, set in 
the oven a minute to heat, and serve. 

The anchovy is a small fish of the herring tribe caught principally in the Med- 
iterranean sea, the best coming from the island of Gorgona. It was well known to 
the ancients, and they made a valued sauce from it called gareen. A large part of 
the anchovies put up in Europe are really sprats or pilchards, the name anchovy 
now indicating a peculiar method of preparing fish rather than the fish it- 
self. There is an Americaa variety of the anchovy but it is mainly sold as white- 
bait. 

THE ALEWIFE. 

This fish can be dressed, and then fried, or sauted like brook 
trout. 

The alewife is an American fish, allied to the herring and shad. It abounds 
on the eastern coast of N. America, appearing in the late spring and early summer. 
It enters the rivers to spawn, but ascends only as far as the tide goes. Although 




FISH 61 

inferior to the herring they are a valuable food fish. They attain a length of from 
8 to 12 inches. It is the most abundant of any of our coast fishes. 

The Baebel belongs to the carp family and resembles the American sucker. 
Numerous species are found in Europe, but no true barbel is known in the United 
States. 

Thc Bleak is another European fish not found in the United States. 

BASS. 

Striped Bass. — Those weighing less than 1 lb. can be allowed to 
soak 1 hour in salted water (after cleaning and dressing); then 
drain, wipe dry, and fry in salt pork fat. Anchovy butter is nice 
with them. (2) Small striped or black bass can be filleted, as previ- 
ously directed for filleting fish. Serve a good sauce, like tartare with 
them. (3) Those weighing from 1 to 3 lbs. can be broiled. (4) 
Those weighing 5 to 8 lbs. can be boiled as previously directed for 
fish. Time to boil, 20 to 30 min- 
utes according to the size. (5) 
They can be stuffed and baked as 
jDreviously directed for baking fish . 
(6) Very large ones can be cut in 
pieces and boiled, steamed, fried, 

or broiled as previously directed stkiped bass. 

for cooking fish by those meth- 
ods, at the beginning of this chapter. They often reach a weight 
of 20 lbs. 

Black Bass. — The smaller ones can be cooked as directed for 
small striped bass, and the larger ones broiled. The flesh is hard, 
white and flaky, but not specially flavored. 

This fish bears many names in different localities, being called Chub in North 
Carolina, Jmnper in Kentucky, and Moss Bass in Indiana. Otsego Bass is a local 
name for Whitefish. There is much confusion in the use of the name bass, it being 
often applied to fish which have no claim to the title. 

The White Bass. — these usually weigh from 1 to 3 lbs. They are 
often also called iJcrcli. Cook them as directed for small striped 
bass. 

The Yellow Bass, which is often called Bav-fsh in tlie south 
closely resembles the white bass in size and color, and is cooked the 
same. 

BLACKFISH, 

These are very nice made into fillets as previously directed for 
filleting fish. Serve with tartare or other good fish sauce. It niakes 
an excellent chowder. It is also good boiled. Proceed as directed 
for cooking fish by these methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

The blackfish is an inhabitant of the coasts of Europe, but is rare because it 



62 FISH 

inhabits deep waters. It often attains a length of 2'^ feet, and a weight of 12 to 
15 lbs. It is an excellent food iish. Its tlesh is firm, flaky and very sweet. It is 
variously known as "Sea- bass," Rock^bass," "BlacksWill," "Black^Harry " and 
"Hannahills." 

BONITO. 

This fish is best broiled or grilled as previously directed for 
broiling iish, at the beginning of this chapter. 

The bonito is found only in the Atlantic basis. It is often called "Skipjack" 
in the Boston market. The tish is not very common, but is a marvel of beauty 
and strength, and is nearly equal to the Spanish Mackerel as a food fish. 

The Brill is a European Iish allied to the turbot, but inferior to it as a food 
fish. It is not found in American waters. 

THE BREAM. 

The American variety belongs to the species of sunfish, and is 
not very highly esteemed. It is best cooked as a jjan^fish — that is 
fried or sauted in the frying j)a.n. 

The European variety is much used for food. There is much confusion in the 
use of the name '"bream," as it is applied both to a sea^fish and to several varie- 
ties of fresh water fish. 

BLUEFISH. 

This is excellent stuffed and baked as previously directed for 
baked Iish, at the beginning of this chapter. Serve with it any fish 
sauce liked best. (2) It can be boiled as directed for boiling fish, 
at the beginning of this chapter. Or (3) it can be cut in steaks and 
fried in salt pork fat in the frying pan, or cut in pieces, egg and 
bread=cruinbed, and fried in smoking hot fat till of a golden brown 
color. Garnish as directed for fried fish at the beginning of this 
chapter. 

The bluefish is an Americaxi fish, and it has never been found on the coast of 
Europe. It is the most destructive 
fish known, devouring eagerly all other 
varieties of fish. The size of the fish 
varies in different localities from 2 or 
?) lbs. on the southern coast, to 15 or 
20 lbs. on the northern coasts. The 
flesh is sweet and savory but does 
not keep very well. They appear on 
the coast from May to October. the bluefish. 

BUTTERFISH. 

These are excellent when fresh if fried in salt pork fat in the 
frying pan. They can also be broiled or filleted as directed for fish 
at the beginning of this chapter. They are nice boiled and a good 
sauce served with them. 

The butterfish is found along the Atlantic coast from Maine to the Carolinas. 
They attain a length of 7 or 8 inches. Their flavor somewhat resembles the 
mackerel, but they are not so oily. They are excellent eating when properly 




FISH 63 

cooked. When freshly caught their color is iridescent and beautiful, resembling 
the dolphin. The "Harvest«fish," "DuUar-fish," "Shcepshead," "Skipjack" and 
'*Star=fish'' are different names applied to this lish or to nearly allied species. 

THE CAKP. 

Dress, and if it comes from stac^nant or muddy water let it soak 
in salt water for an hour, or sprinkle on salt and let it stand over 
night. (1) It is nice stuffed and baked as previously directed for 
baking fish. Or (2) it can be stewed as directed previously for fish, 
and garnished with fried bread. (3) It is also nice fried as directed 
previously for fish. It may be improved by letting it soak a little 
while before cooking it, in vinegar flavored with thyme, parsley and 
nutmeg. 

The carp is a native of Asia, but it has been naturalized in many countries on 
account of its value as food. It is said to live 150 to 200 years. Its weight is 
from 3 or 4 lbs. at 3 years of age, to 15 or 20 lbs. at 6 or 7 years. It prefers stag- 
nant or slowly running waters with a muddy bottom. Its quality depends much 
upon its habitat. In stagnant water it tastes strongly muddy. It should then be 
freshened by soaking it in salted water. 

CATFISH. 

Dress and always soak it in salted water, or leave it over night 
Math salt sprinkled on, to remove the muddy taste. (1) It can then 
be cooked as , previously directed for "Stewed Fish." (2) Fried. 
Prepare it as above, then drain, dredge with flour or corn=meal, and 
fry in a little fat. Season with pepper and salt, and serve. Waffles 
are nice with this dish. (3) It is also good when steamed. (4) Cut 
it in pieces and fry it in smoking hot fat, iDroceeding as directed for 
cooking fish by these methods at the beginning of this chapter. 

CATFISH CHOWDER.— Dress the fish and let it soak a little 
while in salted water. Then boil it, (in just enough water to cover 
it) until tender. Take out the 
largest bones, chop the fish, and 
put it into a stew pan; add 2 
cups hot water, 1 cup milk or 
cream, 2 tablespoons of l)utter, 
1 onion, 1 teaspoon mustard, 

salt, pepper and -| teacup wal- ^^^ catfish. 

nut catsup; stew till thick and 
serve hot. Garnish with sliced lemon. 

The catfisli is a species of the family siluridae and is found in American rivers 
and lakes. The common catfish or horned pout of the eastern states attains a 
length of 7 to 9 inches, but in the west and in the great lakes they sometimes grow 
to a length of 4 feet and attain a weight of 50 to 150 lbs. 

^^ The BuWhead''' '' Bidl=poiit'^ and ^^ Horned pouV of the eastern states is the 
common representative of the catfish in those regions. They are detested by those 




64 FISH 

■who do not like them, but that is partly, at least, owing to not cooking them prop- 
erly. When well cooked they are very palatable, resembling the eel in texture and 
flavor. Many of our common lish are not appreciated as they deserve to be for 
food. 

THE CHAR. 

The char belongs to the same species and is very similar to the 
trout. The method of cooking is the same. It is a delicious food 
fish. (See Trout.) 

THE CHUB. 

This is best fried in the frying=pan after being caught, as direct- 
ed for frying fish at the beginning of this chapter. 

The chub is closely related to the dace and minnows. It reaches a length of 10 
or 12 inches and rarely attains a weight of 5 lbs. There are many American spe- 
cies, but they are not highly esteemed for food. 

CODFISH. 

When fresh, the cod is excellent stuffed and baked as previously 
directed for baking fish. (2) It is excellent also stewed or fried, as 
directed for fish. (3) It is nice boiled whole as directed for other 
fish, but if boiled quite fresh it is apt to be watery; it is rendered 
firmer by being salted a little. If a large cod is boiled whole the 
upper part is so much thicker than the tail that the latter may be 
boiled to rags before the rest is cooked. The head and shoulders 
are therefore generally boiled; the rest may be fried, or stewed in 
slices. (4) Cold boiled cod is very nice creamed, curried or escal- 
loped as directed for preparing fish in these ways, at the beginning 
of this chapter. 

CODFISH BALLS.— Make as previously directed for "Fish 
Balls." 

ESCALLOPED CODFISH.— If salt codfish is used, freshen it by 
soaking it in water or sour milk. Then proceed as previously di- 
rected for " Escalloped Fish." 

BROILED SALT CODFISH.— Soak it | hour in cold water, dry, 
and broil 10 or 12 minutes over a moderate fire. Put it on a warm 
platter and spread on butter, cutting it in several places to let the 
butter penetrate the fish, and serve. 

CODFISH TOAST — Shred 1 teacup nice salt codfish, and soak 
it over night in cold water. In the morning thicken 2 cups milk 
slightly with flour, add 1 well beaten egg, and boil | hour; then add 
the codfish (which should have been well drained in a colander) 
and let it boil 5 minutes longer, and spread it over nice well but- 
tered toast; serve hot. 



FISH 65 

SALT CODFISH OMELET.— Soak a piece of codfish about 3 
inches square over night. Split 3 crackers and lay them in enough 
cold water to cover them. Pick the fish up fine and mix well with 
the crackers, and add 1 well beaten egg, 1 .tablespoon of butter, and 
salt and pepper. Take 2 cups milk and 1 teasj)oon of corn=starch and 
boil 5 minutes, and pour it over the other ingredients. Bake 20 min 
utes. 

CODFISH TONGUES — Wash them thoroughly in cold water 
and then boil them in slightly salted water. When done, drain 
them, arrange them on a napkin on a hot dish, and garnish with 
slices of lemon and parsley. Serve cream sauce with them. Time 
to boil about | hour. 

COD SOUNDS.— These usually come salted. Soak them all 
night in cold water, then scrape and rub off the dark skin with a 
cloth, wash thoroughly, and then boil them very gently in equal 
parts of fresh milk and water until tender. Be careful to remove 
the scum as it rises. Serve them on a hot napkin with egg sauce. 
Time to boil about | hour per pound. 

SCROD. — This is a term applied in the east to small cod. They 
can soak over night in salted water and then be boiled or fried, as 
previously directed for fish at the beginning of this chapter. 

TOMCODS. — These are small codfish. They are nice fried as 
follows. Do not remove the heads, but dress, clean, dry, and rub 
salt on the inside. Dredge with flour and fry a golden brown in 
deep, smoking hot fat. (2) They can also be baked. Dress as 
above, jjut in the baking pan, put a thin slice of bacon on each one, 
add pepper and salt, and bake in a hot oven. Time to bake about 
20 minutes. Serve with slices of lemon. They are sometimes called 
" Tommies." 

The Codfish is found in the northern Atlantic, but is not known in the Med- 
iterranean sea. It is the most important of our food fishes. Cod toncfues, and 
sounds, {i. e. airbladders) are esteemed a delicacy, and are often salted for the 
market. Cod is less digestible than most other white fish, and is hardly suitable 
for invalids, being more difficult of digestion than is commonly imagined. 

DACE. 

This is nice either fried in the frying-pan (sauted), or broiled, 
as directed for cooking fish by these methods at the beginning of 
this chapter. 

The dace is common in western Europe, but it is not very highly esteemed for 
food. There are many allied species in the United States, as the horned dace 
found in clear streams in the east which attains a length of 10 or 12 inches. The 
••horns" develop on the males in the breeding season, but are absent at other 
times. 



66 



FISH 



The John Doby is a marine fish found on the coasts of Europe. It has a 
large head with a black spot on each side, and it attains a length of 18 inches. 
The Frexich Canadians apply the name to a species of pike. It is not found in 
America. 

THE DRUM. 

The young make a fine pan=fish, i. e. fried in the frying j)an. 
The large ones are not much esteemed for food. 

The drum derives its name from the drumming noise which it makes. It is 
found on the gulf coast and as far north as Maryland. When joung and fresh the 
flavor is agreeable, but the flesh is coarse though tender. 

EELS. 

Eels should always be skinned, and the head cut off and thrown 
away. They can then be washed dried, and cut into lengths about 
8 inches long. They are sometimes allowed to then soak a short 
time in a little water and vinegar, which improves them. They can 
then be fried, as j^reviously 
directed for frying fish, in 
deejD smoking hot fat. Serve 
tomato, pickle or any acid 
sauce with them. They can 
also be broiled, stewed or 
boiled as directed for cook- 
ing fish by those methods at 
the beginning of this chapter. 

THE FLOUNDER. 

This is nice fried. Scra^De the fish, cut off the head and tail, 
wash, dry, and fry as directed for frying fish. Time to fry about 6 
or 7 minutes. They are often broiled as directed for fish at the 
beginning of this chapter, They make nice fillets also. Serve a 
good fish sauce with the latter. 

The Floundeb is found along the 
Atlantic coast from Cape Cod to Florida. 
They lie u[)on the bottom or bury them- 
selves in the sand. They attain a length 
of 12 to 30 inches, and a weight of 2 to 8 
lbs. It is a flat fish having both eyes on 
the same side of the head. The upper 
side is darker than the lower. They live 
long out of the water. The flounder is 
easy of digestion, but is best broiled 
when intended for weak stomachs. 




CONGEK EEL. 




FLOUNDEli. 



FROGS. 
The hind legs only are used. Skin and put them for -^ minutes 
in boiling salted water containing a little Icukju juice; tlien drain 
and wipe dry. Fry the fat from 2 or b slices of thin salt pork; dip 



FISH 67 

the frogs' legs in beaten egg and then in flour, and fry a delicate 
brown. Or (2) dip them in bread crumbs, then season with pepper 
and salt, di^j in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry a golden 
brown in smoking hot fat. (8) If preferred they can be broiled. 
Or (4) stew them in a little water seasoned with salt, pepper and 
herbs; stew until tender, then let the water boil out, put in a bit of 
butter and let them brown. Serve v/ith parsley, watercresses or 
l^epper^grass and lettuce. (5) Frogs' legs are also made into a broth 
the same as chicken broth. 

Seventy years ago, Charles Lamb wrote to a friend: "Since I saw you I have 
been in France and have eaten frogs, the nicest little rabbity things you ever tast- 
ed. Pick off the hindsquarters; boil them plain, and serve with parsley and 
butter.'' 

THE GRAYLING. 

This l)elongs to the same species as the trout. It is found in 
Europe and America, but is con- 
fined to special localities. It is 
a very gamey fish, and is deli- 
cious eating. It is cooked in the 
same ways as brook trout 
(which see). the geIyling. 

The Gudgeon is a European fish belonging to the carp family. It is not com- 
mon in the U. S. 

GURNARD. 

The large ones can be boiled, or stewed, or stuffed and baked, as 
previously directed for cooking fish by those methods. Small ones 
can be broiled or fried, as directed for fish, at the beginning of this 
chapter. 

The gurnard is much eaten iu Europe, but is neglected in America. The fiesh 
is a flaky white, firm, and most agreeable eating. It deserves more attention. 

HADDOCK. 

When fresh the haddock is very nice (1) broiled or (2) stufted 
or (3) baked. It is also good (4) boiled or (5) steamed^ or (6) 
fried, and (7) it makes a splendid chowder. (8) It is also nice 
filleted. Proceed as previously directed for cooking fish by those 
methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

Smoked haddock, if very salt, should be soaked- 1 or 2 hours in 
water. Then the simplest and best way to cook it is to broil it over a 
clear fire. Time to boil 1 to 10 minutes according to its thickness. 
Rub on butter before sending it to the table. It cau also be boiled, 
or boiled a short time and then baked. 




68 FISH 

DRIED HADDOCK, STEWED— Warm the haddock before the 
fire just enough to make the skin i^eel off easily. Cut it into jpieces 
down the middle, and 2 or 3 times across. Put it into a closed 
saucepan, with a lump of butter and a teaspoon of water and stew 
gently a few minutes. 

The haddock is found in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans and immense 
quantities are now cauglit. Their average length is about 10 to 15 inches, and 
their weight 3 or i lbs. although they sometimes attain a weight of 12 or 15 lbs. 
When very large its flesh is coarse. It does not take salt as well as the cod, 
although it belongs to the same family, and it is often smoked and dried. It is in 
season from October to January. It is wholesome, nutritious, and easy of diges- 
tion. 

HAKE. 

This fish is not often eaten except when salted, but it is some- 
times (1) boiled, or (2) stuffed and baked, or (3) stewed, or (4) 
made into fillets, the methods being the same as directed for other 
fish at the beginning of this chapter. When salted and dried it 
much- resembles codfish, and is often sold for it. The method of 
cooking is the same. 

The hake belongs to the cod family 
and is found in the North Atlantic. It is 
sometimes 3 or 4 feet in length. Its 
flesh is white and fiaky., 

THK HAKE. 

THE HALIBUT. 

This excellent fish is nice either (1) baked, (2) broiled, (3) 
boiled, (4) steamed, or (5) made into fillets, as jDreviously directed 
for cooking fish by those methods. (6) When cold it is excellent 
creamed or prej^ared by the other recipes given for cold fish at 
the beginning of this chapter. 

HALIBUT STEAKS— Fry the fat thoroughly from 4 thick slices 
of clear salt pork; take out the pork when crisp; roll the steaks in 
flour or yellow corn meal, and put in the pan; fry over a hot fire, but 
do not scorch; when done on one side, turn carefully with a fish or 
pie knife, and when done, have both sides a golden brown. Place 
the fish on a platter; send to the table, with cream gravy made in 
the pan after taking up the fish. Serve with cucumber pickles. 

HALIBUT, PICKLED.— Take a piece of cold boiled halibut, put 
it in a bowl and pour over it hot vinegar in which has been boiled 
for 8 or 10 minutes a little red pepj)er and 1 blade of mace; let it 
stand 2 days before using. 




FISH 



69 




The halibut is emphatically a cold 
water fish, being found in the north 
Atlantic and Pacific oceans. It is 
the largest of the ct)ld water fish, 
sometimes attaining a weight 
of 300 lbs. Those weighing 30 
to iO lbs. are best. Its eyes are 
both on the same side of the head, 
and it is dark on the upper and white 
on the lower side. The flesh is 
white and firm, but dry. It is high- 
ly esteemed for food, but is not equal 
to the turbot. 

THE HERRING/ 

Fresh herrings are excellent either (1) broiled or grilled, or (2) 
baked, or (3) boiled, or (4) fried, or (5) made into fillets, as directed 
for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

SMOKED HERRING, BROILED.— Let them stand 10 minntes 
covered with b(jiling water. . Then skin, wipe dry, and broil them 
over clear coals. Put them on a warm dish, moisten with butter, 
and serve. Time to broil, about 7 or 8 minutes. 

The herring is the most important food fish known. Enormous quantities are 
caught every year. It is eaten fresh, and is smoked, dried and pickled. It is very 
oily, and not very digestible, but it is exceedingly nutritious. The so called her- 
ring of the great lakes is a kind of whitefish. 

Bloateb is ah English name applied to herring prepared for the market by 
slightly salting, smoke=drying, etc. 

THE LAMPREY. 

The lami^rey is like a very tough eel. It can be cooked like vf\ 
only it requires to cook l(jnger, (See eel.) 



The lamprey is an eeUlike fish, having a car- 
tilagenous body, without scales, and a round, 
sucking mouth with numerous teeth. It is found 
in Europe, and there are several species in the 
U. S. They are very tenaceous of life, and are 
prized by some for food. 




THE LAJiriiliY. 



LING, CUSK OR BURBOT 

The ling is caught in the northern seas, and it is a fish belong- 
ing to the same family as the cod and hake, which it much resembles.- 
It can be (1) boiled or (2) fried or (3) stewed, treating it the same 
as the cod, and (4) it makes a good soup. The fish is wholesome 
and nutritious, although not much used fresh. It takes salt well, 
and large quantities are prepared for the market. It is also dried. 

Cask, Bin-but and Eehpout are other names for the same or very 
similar fish. 



70 FISH 

MACKEREL. 

This fish is excellent if eaten fresh, but it spoils easily. In 
dressing and cleaning be careful not to break the skin. One of the 
best ways to cook it is to broil it. Time to broil, 15 to 20 minutes. 
(2) It is excellent steamed, and many people can eat it that way who 
cannot when broiled. It is also good (3) when boiled or (4) fried or 
or (5) filleted, proceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by 
those methods at the beginning of this chapter. 

PICKLED MACKEREL.— Boil fresh mackerel. Then take the 
liquor it was cooked in, add 1 cup vinegar, ^ oz. whole black pepper, 
2 bay leaves, and boil all 7 or 8 minutes; pour it over the mackerel, 
cover tightly, and let stand 24 hours, when it will be ready for use. 

BROILED SALT MACKEREL.— Take a medium sized salt mack- 
erel and soak it over night in cold water. In the morning dry it, 
rub on a little butter, and broil it nicely, but not too long. When 
done, plunge it into boiling water a moment, which makes it swell 
up and look fat. Then put it on a hot plate, add a little melted but- 
ter, lemon juice and pepper, and serve. 

CREAMED SALT MACKEREL.— Soak the fish over night, and 
wipe dry the next morning; heat the gridiron, butter it, and broil the 
fish over a clear fire; lay it on a hot platter while you make a sauce 
as follows: Heat 1 cup of milk to near boiling, and thicken it with 
2 teaspoons of corn-starch rubbed smooth in 2 teaspoons of butter; 
add salt, pe^jper, a little chopped parsley, and when taken from 
the stove and partly cool, stir in 1 beaten egg; then pour it over the 
fish and serve. A nice breakfast dish in hot weather. 

The mackei-el is found in the northern Atlantic, and immense quantities are 
used as food. Its usual length is about 16 to 18 inches, and its weight 2 lbs. It is 
very nourishing although difficult of digestion by weak stomachs. 

The " Spanish Mackeeel '' is caught on the Atlantic coast, but it is not very 
highly esteemed for food. 

THE MENHADDEN. 

This fish is best (1) broiled, or (2) fried, or (3) filleted, proceed- 
ing as directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning 
of this chapter. 

The menhadden belongs to the same family as the shad and herring, and is 
extensively caught along the Atlantic coast of the U. S. It is not much eaten fresh, 
as it is full of bones and very oily. It is now put up and sold for sardines, the 
bones being softened by steam. 

THE MULLET. 

This fish frequently has an earthy taste. That can be removed, 
as in other fish, by soaking it in salted water for an hour or two, or 




FISH ^1 

sprinkle on salt and leave it over night. It can then be stutfed and 
baked as previously directed for baking fish. (2) It can also be split 
and broiled. Or (3) it may be fried, or (4) filleted. It is sometimes 
(5) boiled or (6) steamed, proceeding as directed for fish at the be- 
ginning of this chapter. 

Mullet Roes are often eaten raw and they are also salted and dried 
in the sun. They are then eaten raw like dried beef, or they can be 
fried. 

The mullet is found in both Europe 
and the U. S. The red mullet of Europe 
is considered the best. The mullet is 
very plentiful along the gulf coast of 
the U. S., and two varieties are found, 
the Striped and White. It attains an 
average length of about a foot and stkiped mullet. 

weight of about If^ lbs. 

MUSKELLUNGE. 

(1) This fish is nice stuffed and baked as previously directed 
for baking fish. (2) It is often cut in pieces the right size for 
the table, rolled in corn meal, and fried in smoking hot fat like 
doughnuts, until of a rich golden brown. (3) It is also often fried 
in the frying=pan in salt pork fat, and garnished with the crisp slices 
of pork. It can also be (4) stewed as directed for stewing fish at the 
beginning of this chapter. 

The muskellunge belongs to the pike family, and is found in the Great Lakes 
and the St. Lawrence river. The tiesh is superior to that of any of the rest of the 
species of pike. It is sometimes called '' lake trout." 

THE PERCH. 

To facilitate removing the scales it may be plunged into boiling 
water for a moment. It is in America quite generally fried in the 
frying pan with salt pork fat. (2) It is nice fried in deep fat as 
previously directed for frying fish. (3) It is also good In'oiled or 
(4) stewed, as directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the 
beginning of this chapter. " ^ 

The true perch is the common yellow perch of Europe and America. In re- 
gions where the true perch is not found the name is loosely applied to various 
fishes. All the true perches are confined to the north temperate zone. This fish 
loves still waters and is very voraceous and tenaceous of life. The tiesh is firm, of 
good flavor and digestible. 

PICKEREL. 

This fish is cooked in the same ways as pike, (which see). 

The pickerel is a diminutive pike. It is rarely more than a foot in length, but 
it sometimes attains a weight of .5 to 8 lbs. The flesh is the same as the pike's. 
In the southern states it is called the " Jack." 



72 FISH 

PIKE. 

This fish should be carefully scaled and cleaned. It is very nice 
stuffed and baked as previously directed for baking fish. (2) It 
can also be boiled or (3) fried or (4) stewed or (5) filleted, as pre- 
viously directed for cooking fish by those methods, at the beginning 
of this chapter. 

The pike is found in both Europe ^_-^^^^^^^P^^^^^^^ ?^^^^^^^^-' 
and America, and is exceedingly vora- ' ' ' ' ° - -, --^--= ^~" 




cious, eagerly devouring other tish. It 

frequently attains a very large size. 

The flesh is much esteemed for food, 

although it is rather dry. Those of 

moderate size are better than very '^^e pikl-. 

large ones. The roe of the pike is made into caviare, and in some countries the 

flesh is dried and salted. 

THE PLAICE. 

This is an excellent fish, the best being those with a thick, firm 
body. Large fish should be skinned, but small ones need not be, 
but it is best to remove the head and fins, and clean thoroughly. 
The fish is excellent (1) boiled, or (2) baked, or (8) broiled, or (4) 
fried, and (5) it is very nice steamed. (6) Small ones are i^roba- 
bly best fried or baked. Proceed as directed for cooking fish by 
these various methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

The plaice belongs to the same family as the flounder and turbot. It is a flat 
fish having both eyes on the same side of the head. It seeks sandy and muddy 
bottoms, and attains a weight of 6 to 12 lbs. It is light, digestible, and when fresh 
has a delicate flavor. Invalids can eat it without fear. 

THE PORGY. 

This fish is found along the southern Atlantic coasts. It is best 
fried in the frying pan, with salt pork fat. 

RED SNAPPER. 

This fish is best ( 1 ) boiled, or ( 2 ) stuffed and baked as previous- 
ly directed for cooking fish by those methods. (3) It also makes an 
excellent chowder. Medium sized fish will boil in oO to 40 minutes, 
while to bake them will take about 1 hour. 

Snapper is a name applied to several different fish in the U. S. The red snap- 
per is a fish found along the gulf coast of the U. §. It resembles the porgy and is 
highly esteemed for food. 

THE POLLOCK OR COALFISH. 

This fish is found in the north Atlantic and belongs to the 
same family as the cod and whiting. Owing to an unwise pre- 
judice it is very much underestimated as food. Some who have in- 
vestigated the subject say that they prefer it, when salted, to cod. 




FISH 73 

It is rather deficient in flavor, but makes a gooa curry. It can be 
cooked by any of the recipes given elsewhere for codfish. 

THE POMPANO. 

This fish can be (1) broiled, or (2) baked or (3) boiled or 
(4) steamed or (5) filleted, as directed for cooking fish by those 
methods at the beginning of this 
chapter. 

The poinpano is found both on 
the Atlantic and Pacific coasts. It ap- 
pears chiefly in the summer and fall. 
There are several varieties. The flesh 
is fat, rich and delicious, being consid- 
ered the best of all the food fishes, and 
they usually command a very high 
price. 

THE POMPANO, 

THE RAY OR SKATE. 

This fish can be either (1) boiled or (2) fried or (3) stewed or 
(4) curried, as previously directed for cooking fi.sh by those methods. 
The Skate is a species of the Ray family. 

THE ROACH. 

This fish is probably best (1) fried, but (2) is also good baked, 
(if baked, be sure and baste it well.) (3) It can also be stewed, or 
(4) filleted, proceeding as j)reviously directed for cooking fish by 
those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

The roach belongs to the same family as the carp, dace, etc. It is common tt) 
both Europe and America. The name is applied in America to several species of 
fish, and sometimes to sunfish. 

FISH ROES. 

The hard, yellow, granular roe is the spawn or eggs of fish, 
and comes from the female, and the soft whitish roe is the milt, 
which comes from the male. For frying (either the hard or the soft) 
wash them, then parboil by j)utting them for 10 minutes in boiling 
salted water containing 1 tablespoon of vinegar; thgn take out, plunge 
in cold water, drain, egg and bread=crumb, and fry in hot fat till a 
nice brown. They are also sometimes sauUd or fried in a frying- 
pan, being first cut in slices ^ inch thick and egg and bread-crumbed. - 

FISH ROES, BAKED. — Parboil them in slightly salted water 
for 10 minutes; then drain them on a cloth, lay them on thin slices 
of breakfast=bacon in a baking- tin, place thin slices of bacon over the 
roe, and set it in a hot oven until the bacon is baked crisp and brown. 
Serve with any one of the fish sauces preferred. 



74 FISH 

FISH ROES, BOILED.— Boil them in slightly salted water for 
30 minutes; if small, they will cook in less time. Do not let them 
break in pieces. In the meantime make a nice butter gravy, add to 
it a very little chopped parsley, and pour it over the roe, after plac- 
ing it on a hot platter. 

FISH ROES, BROILED.— Parboil the roes for 10 or 15 minutes 
in slightly salted water to liarden them, drain on a cloth, and wipe 
them dry; dip in beaten egg, roll in cracker crumbs, and broil over a 
clear fire of coals until well browned on both sides; place them on a 
hot platter, spread them with butter, or pour over them any fish 
sauce preferred. 

The fecundity of fish has always excited the wonder of naturalists. The males 
have the milt, and the females tlie roe. The greater number deposit their spawn in 
the sand or gravel, but some of those who dwell in the depths of the ocean attach 
their eggs to seaweeds. According to Lewenhoeck, the cod annually spawn up- 
wards of 9,000,000 of eggs; the flounder 1,000.000, the sturgeon 700,000; the percli 
400,000 the mackerel 500,000; the herring 10,000. Fish roes form a cheaj) and ap- 
petizing dish for those who like them. 

SALMON. 

Probably the two best ways of cooking salmon are by (1) broiling, 
or (2) boiling. (3) Salmon steaks are very nice broiled, steamed or 
fried. (4) Fillets of salmon are nice fried; or first parboiled or 
steamed, and then stewed in a good brown or matelote sauce. In 
cooking salmon by the above methods proceed as directed for cook- 
ing fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. 

Cold Salmon, may be prepared by any of the various recipes giv- 
en for cold fish at the beginning of this chapter. 

Salmon is nice spiced, as directed in our recipe for spiced fish 
previously given. 

SALMON CUTLETS.— Cut slices of salmon i inch thick, remove 
skin and bone, season with salt and pepper, sprinkle on flour, dip in 
beaten egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Or they can be 
fried in a frying pan. 

SALMON STEAKS. — Salmon steaks are good broiled and served 
with piccalilli heated and piled in the middle, and with a hot sauce 
poured round, but not over the fish. A very simple but delicious 
way of cooking salmon is to cut it in slices, and grill it, serving it 
at once with a good squeeze of lemon juice, and a dust of cayenne on 
each side. 

Large Trout cooked in the same way are equally good. 

SALMON TOAST.— Soak 2 oz. of bread crumbs in cold milk, 
and mix with a can of salmon which has been worked to a paste. 



FISH 75 

Add tlie beaten yolks of 2 eggs, season with salt, pepper, a little nut- 
meg, and the grated peel of ^ a lemon. Put into a dish, and on the 
toj) place beaten whites of the eggs. Bake in a moderate oven, and 
when the top is slightly brown, it is ready to serve. 

CANNED SALMON — A good way to serve it for breakfast, is to 
heat it, add pe^jper and salt to season, and serve on slices of toast, 
pouring over milk, thickened with flour and butter. 

Another way to use canned salmon is to put the can for about 20 
minutes in a kettle of hot water; then turn it into a dish, and pour 
on drawn butter, to which finely cut hard boiled eggs and chopped 
parsley has been added; eat with mashed potatoes. 

SALMON, GERMAN STYLE.— Take 2 pints sauerkraut, boil, 
drain, pile it on a dish, and make a hole in the center; have 1 lb. 
hot canned salmon ready, jiut it in the hole; heat and season the 
salmon liquid, pour it over the dish and serve. 

SMOKED SALMON, BROILED.— Smoked salmon is nice 
washed, drained, and broiled nicely, Then put it on a warm dish, 
sj)read on butter, and serve. 

The Salmon is found in both the Atlantic and Pacific oceans. There are many 
varieties. Although the fish is considered most delicious when fresh, it is said to 
be more wholesome when kept 1 or 2 days. It is very nutritious, but should be 
eaten in moderation. 

SARDINES. 

These are nice broiled. Do not break them in taking from the 
can. Scrape ofP the skin carefully, and broil to a delicate brown 
between double wire broilers. Then put them in a hot dish and 
serve with lemon juice squeezed over them. They are also nice with 
orange juice. 

To serve sardines, the oil can be drained from them, and then 
place them on any small ornamental dish. Some peoi^le cover them 
with fresh olive oil, and others do not, as tastes differ. They can 
be garnished with parsley, pepper=grass or lettuce. Set a dish of 
quartered lemons near them. 

SARDINES ON TOAST.- -Take 3 eggs, 3 sardines, 3 slices of 
buttered toast. Bone the sardines and pound them in a mortar with 
a pinch of salt, a little pepper, and cayenne. Spread this paste on 
the hot buttered toast. Heat \ pint of cream, and, when hot, add 
the eggs well beaten with a Dover beater. Stir well until almost 
boiling; then pour it over the sardines and toast, and send to the 
table. Sufficient for 3 persons. 



76 



FISH 




Sardines belong to the same order as the herring. They abound in the Medi- 
terranean, and are also found in parts of the Atlantic. They appear in shoals, are 
caught witl\ nets, and are salted, dried, soaked in boiling oil and put into boxes 
and covered with oil. A good many of the fish sold as sardines are really sprats, 
cured and preserved in the same way. A variety named anchovied sardines are 
sardines that have been cured in red wine. Sardines are very wholesome, and fur- 
nish an agreeable addition to the table. 

THE SCUPPAUG. 

The scup, or scuppaug, is very abundant in the eastern market 
in some seasons. (1) Small 
ones are .best fried in the frying 
pan. (2) Large ones can be 
broiled, and a rich sauce served 
with them. The flesh is rather 
dry, and flavorless. 



THE SCUPPAUG. 

SHAD. 

This fish is probably best broiled. The fish is apt to be dry. 
The secret of having it juicy is to rub it with melted butter or salad 
oil before broiling it. Then broil it over a clear coal fire, It will 
take 20 or 30 minutes. When done, spread with butter, salt and 
pepper. A cream or bechamel sauce is often served with it. (2) 
Many people prefer this fish baked Stuff and bake it as directed 
for baking fish. It will take from 1 to 1^ hours to bake, 

Dressing for Baked Shad. — Boil up the gravy in which the shad 
was baked, put in a large tablespoon of browned flour which has been 
wet with a little cold water, and the juice of 2 lemons, Pour it 
around the fish after it is placed on the platter, or serve it in a sauce- 
boat. 

(3) It is also nice fried, proceeding as directed for frying fish, at 
the beginning of this chapter. (4) It is sometimes potted. See our 
recipe for potting fish, given at the beginning of this chapter. 

The shad is found only in the northern hemisphere. The American shad 
is best. They attain a length of 2 to 3 feet, and weight of 4 to 8 lbs. 

SHEEPSHEAD. 

This fish is excellent boiled. Proceed as previously directed for 
boiling fish. (2) It is probably best steamed. Take a medium sized 
fish, dress, clean, rub with a little salt, wrap it in a cloth and then 
steam. Time to steam, about 1 hour. Then garnish with parsley 
and slices of lemon, and serve with drawn butter or other good fish 



FISH . 77 

sauce. (3) It is excellent broiled. Sf)lit it in two lengthwise, 
remove the head and backbone, rub on butter or salad oil, and broil 
over a clear fire. When done spread on butter, add salt and pepper, 
and squeeze on lemon juice, and serve. (4) It is also nice stuffed 
and baked as directed previously for baking fish, at the beginning of 
this chapter. 

The sheepshead is found in the warm- jjfWWIWwwiw^^^^^-^ 

er waters of the Atlantic, south of Cape .^^E^'l - w '^I'lf^'^^^'i^^^^^ 

Cod. It sometimes exceeds 2 feet in ^^^^^''- '§% ''^^'^ ''■'M^^^^^i>C3 ^^^a^ 

length, and weighs 14 or 15 lbs., but its ^w.lr'^^ Mt w • -^j Vf^ ^^^^^^''T^^^^ 

average weight is 5 or 6 lbs. Its flesh is ^^-^vj, )|ji^ -rS^^ ^'{. . 'yA '% j^ ^^S 

very delicate and has been likened to the ^^^^^ wp^i^^^^ \k, '\m,M^^^^^^ 

English turbot, and is one of the best of ^""^^^'x-^ilL^Mhi^mJ^^^ ^^^ 

THE SHEEPSHEAD. 

SMELTS. 

Smelts, small trout, and all small pan fish are better dressed 
with scissors than with a knife. 

BAKED SMELTS.— This delicious little fish is of a fine silvery 
appearance, with a light fawn=colored shade on the back, and when 
fresh, has an odor resembling cucumbers. Wash and dry them with 
a cloth; arrange them in a buttered flat baking dish; cover them with 
a layer of fine, fresh bread crumbs, first sprinkling the fish with a 
little salt and white pep^jer; place bits of butter over the bread 
crumbs and bake until a nice brown, say 20 or 30 minutes. Send to 
the table in the dish in which they were baked; squeeze the juice of 
a lemon over them just before sending to the table. 

FRIED SMELTS.— They may be fried in a little butter after the 
manner of cooking small trout, or in the fat of a slice of salt pork; 
or they may be strung, 6 on a wire skewer, dipped in egg and then 
cracker crumbs, and cooked in boiling fat like doughnuts. Sauce 
tartare is nice with them when fried. So is anchovy, cucumber, or 
other good sauce. 

BROILED — Clean, split, and broil them nicely in a double wire 
broiler. Serve sauce tartare with them, or slices of lemon. 

The smelt is found in both Europe and America, and belongs to the same 
family as the trout and salmon. Most of the species inhabit salt water, but some 
are found in fresh. The flesh is very delicate. 

The Sole. — The English sole is from 10 to 20 inches long and weighs from 1 
to 10 lbs. It is a flat fish like the turbot, and its flesh is much esteemed. In 
America the name is often applied to the *'Hog=choker," "Calico" or "Cover- 
slip," a fish which is not used for food. 



78 



FISH 




SPRATS. 

DRIED SPRATS. — Let them stand for 10 minutes covered with 
boiling water; then skin, wipe dry, and broil them over a clear fire. 
Serve them on a warm dish with butter spread over them. Time to 
broil aT)out 8 minutes 

Fresh sprats are also best when broiled; serve with lemon juice 
squeezed on. They are also sometimes fried. 

The sprat is a small herriiif^ seldom over C inches long. It is often drted or 
salted. 

THE SQUETEAGUE. 

This fish is excellent (1) broiled, or (2) fried, or (3) filleted. 
The larger ones can be (4) boiled or (5) steamed, or (6) stuffed and 
baked, proceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by those 
methods, at the beginning of this 
chaj)ter. 



The squeteague is found along the 
Atlantic Coast from Cape Cod to Florida. 
It attains a weight from 1 to 8 or 10 
lbs. The flesh is soft, delicately flavored 
and is highly esteemed. It is often called 
" WeaA/fs/t." '^^^ squeteague ob weakfish. 

STURGEON. 

The flesh from a medium sized fish will be found more tender 
and better than that of a very large one. (1) Small ones can be 
skinned, and then stuffed and baked as i^reviously directed for bak- 
ing fish. (2) Steaks cut from sturgeon can be broiled, or ('S) small 
cutlets can be cut out and fried, or ( 4 ) the flesh can be stewed as 
previously directed for cooking fish by those methods. (5) The 
flesh is sometimes allowed to soak in the marinade given at the be- 
ginning of this chapter before being broiled. 

This fish requires more thor- 
ough cooking than almost any other 
kind. Its flesh is more like meat 
than that of any other fish. 

The sturgeon is found in both Europe 
and America. It is shark like in form, and 
has strong fins but no scales. The flesh is 
a pale red, very wholesoa:e and agreeable, 
and the flesh of the back tastes like veal, 
while the flank is more like pork. It is 
found in the markets from April to Sep- fc _____ f 

^^'^^^'- . "STUEGEON. 

SUCKERS. 
These should be dressed, and allowed to lie iii salted water for 1 




FISH 



79 



or 2 hours, or with salt sprinkled on over night, to remove the 
earthy taste. Then they can be^ either (1) stewed or (2) fried, or 
(3) broiled, j)roceeding as previously directed for cooking fish by 
those methods, at the beginning of this chapter. 

. Many peoj^le have a prejudice against these fish and will not 
eat them, but if properly cooked they are good, and as a food supply 
they are too much ignored, 

SUNFISH. 

These are usually fried in the frying=pan (sauted) in salt pork 
fat. They can also be (2) filleted or (3) broiled. Serve with lem- 
on juice squeezed on. Proceed as directed at the beginning of this 
chapter for cooking fish by those methods. 

SWOEDFISH. 

The flesh of this fish is usually cut into steaks, and either (1) 
broiled or (2) boiled; it can also be (3) stewed or (4) steamed, pro- 
ceeding as i^reviously directed for cooking fish by those methods, at 
the beginning of this chapter. 

The swordlish ranges from the Atlantic to the Mediterranean. It is from 10 to 
15 feet long, and a rapid swimmer. The flesh is rather coarse and oily, but the 
flavor is good. 

THE TAUTOG. 

This fish can be either (1) broiled, or (2) fried, or (3) filleted, 
or (4) boiled or (5) stewed, as directed for cooking fish by those 
methods at the beginning of this chapter. 



The tautog is found along the At- 
lantic coast of the U. S. It appears 
from April to November. Its average 
weight is aliout 2 lbs., but it sometimes 
weighs 10 to 1.5 lbs. The flesh is 
white, dry and delicate in flavor, and 
is much esteemed. 

THE TAUTOG. 

The Thobnback is a fish very abundant along some parts of the English coast 
and highly esteemed for food. It is not found in the United States. 

The Tunny is a large fish belonging to the same family as the mackerel, and 
the "horse mackerel" is nearly allied to it. It is found in the Mediterranean and 
Black seas as well as in the Atlantic, and although esteemed for food in Europe it 
is seldom or never eaten in America. 

BROOK TROUT. 

In dressing trout the head, tail and fins should not be removed, 
but cut the fish open and scrape out the insides. 

The sportsman's way of cooking i^erfectiy fresh trout is to dress 
them, rub table salt inside, and fry in the frying=pan in smoking hot 




80 FISH 

salt pork fat. (2) As the fish comes to the city market it is best to 
broil it nicely over a declining fire. Season it with salt, iDepjDer, a 
little lemon juice and butter, and serve on hot plates. (3) Those 
weighing 1 lb. or more can be stuflPed and baked as previously di- 
rected for baking fish. Time to bake 20 to 30 minutes. This 
method is not common, but the fish are good thus prepared. (4) 
When many are received and there is danger that some may spoil 
they can be boiled in water seasoned with lemon juice, whole peppers, 
mace and salt, and then they can be served at luncheon, or prepared 
as previously directed for any cold fish, at the beginning of this 
chapter. 

Trout au Bleu. — Take some freshly caught trout; clean and wipe 
them; put them in a sauce=pan, and pour over them a pint of boiling 
vinegar, which immediately turns them blue; then add a pint of 
water to cover the fish; add 4 bay leaves, salt and pepper, an onion 
stuck with cloves, the peel of a lemon, half a head of celery, a carrot, 
and a small bunch of parsley; cover and boil ^ hour. Serve with 
fish sauce, or oil and vinegar. 

The trout is found in most northern countries and is a fresh water fish. It is 
very voraceous and agil, and 20 species are known in America. It is a delicious 
food fish. In the south the name is sometimes erroneously applied to black 
bass, etc. 

TURBOT. 

In choosing turbot the medium sized are best, and those with 
yellowish-white rather than bluish=white flesh. Soak the fish in 
salted water 1 hour to facilitate removing the slime, or, if in a hurry, 
rub with salt and wash in several waters. The fins are not removed 
as the gelatinous parts about them are esteemed a delicacy, but they 
may be trimmed. Red spots on the white side can be removed by 
rubbing them with salt and lemon juice. The skin becomes gelatin- 
ous when cooked, and is highly esteemed, but is rather indigestible. 
Unlike most fish it is better if kept for a day or two. If boiled, a 
gash through the skin down the back will keep the skin on the belly 
from cracking when it begins to swell in cooking. 

It is often boiled. Dress and prepare it as above and then boil 
as previously directed for boiling fish. Time to boil 15 to 20 min- 
utes for small fish, and 20 to 30 for larger ones. Then garnish and 
serve with a good fish sauce. It can also be (2) stuffed and baked, 
or (3) fried, or (4) filleted, proceeding as directed for cooking fish 
by those methods. 

Cold remnants of the fish are nice prepared by any of the recipes 
given previously for cooking cold fish, at the beginning of this 
chapter. 




TURBOT 



CRAB 




OYSTERS 



FRIED SMELTS 



FISH 



81 




FRIED TURBOT — Cut some remnants of boiled turbot into 
neat pieces, steeja them in a 
marinade of lemon juice, oil, 
pejaper and salt, for 1 or 2 
hours, then dip them in 
batter and fry them a golden 
brown in plenty of hot fat. 

The turbot is found on the 
northern Atlantic coast of the U, 
S. It is a flat fish like the flounder 
and halibut, having the upper side 
dark and the underside light. It 
attains a weight of 2 to 20 lbs. 
The flesh is highly esteemed for 

food. TUKBOT. 

The Tenoh is a fish belonging 
to the same family as the carp. It 
is found in Europe and Asia, but not in the U. S. It is highly esteemed for food. 

WHITEFISH. 

This fish is splendid broiled. Cut it in two lengthwise, take out 
the backbone, cut each half in two, rub on butter or salad oil, and 
broil nicely over a moderate fire. Time about 10 minutes. Serve 
on a hot dish with butter spread on, salt and pepper added, and 
lemon juice sqeezed over. Garnish to taste. It is also nice (2) 
boiled, or (3) filleted, proceeding as directed for cooking fish by 
those methods at the beginning of this chapter. 

Cold Remnants can be prepared by any of the recipes given for 
utilized cold fish, given at the beginning of this chapter. 

The whitefish belongs to the same family as the salmon and trout. It is 
found in the northern parts of America. It sometimes attains a weight of 10 lbs. 
and a length of 2 feet or more. The flesh is a bluish white, turning pure white 
when boiled. It is one of the best of the summer fishes. 

WHITING. 

This fish is excellent fried in a frying-pan with salt i^ork fat or 
butter. It can also be (2) broiled or (3) filleted as directed for 
cooking fish by those methods at the beginning of this chapter. 

The whiting is found along the southern Atlantic coast of the U. S. Its 
flesh is sweet and hard, but soon looses its delicate flavor. 

WEAKFISH. 

Same as squeteague, which see. 

WHITEBAIT. 

The whitebait is the name given in England to young herring 
not over 6 inches long. They are usually rolled in flour and fried in 
deep, smoking hot fat. They are considered very choice. They ap- 
pear after April and during the summer months. 
6 




SHELL=FISH. 

NDER the head of shelhfish we include oysters, clams, crabs, 
lobsters, shrimps, prawns, mussels, crayfish, scollops, and 
terrapin or turtle. 

Of the shell fish, oysters are the most valuable, not only 
for their flavor, but for the ease with which they can be taken by 
invalids, and for the nutritious qualities they possess. Lobsters and 
clams are more difficult of digestion, but are much liked by many 
persons. Lobsters and clams should be perfectly fresh, as many 
cases of illness have been caused by eating them after decomposition 
has begun. All shell fish should be ke^jt near ice both before and 
after being cooked, if there is a remainder after the meals, except in 
cold and freezing weather. 

CLAMS. 

Clams arc good duriug the months when oysters are not in sea- 
son — those without an " r," May to August. If only eaten when 
fresh, they are wholesome. 

CLAMS AU QRATIN — Chop all the hard part of uncooked 
clams; to a cup of clams add a cup of fine cracker or bread crumbs, 
reserving a little for the top of the mixture before it is placed in the 
oven ; add also to the chopped clams a dessertspoon of chopped onion, 
a small teaspoon of marjoram and sage, a little chopi)ed celery, some 
cayenne and salt; moisten all with the broth of the clams; fill but- 
tered shells with the mixture, sprinkle crumbs over the top, with 
some bits of butter, and x^lace in a hot oven for 20 minutes; garnish 
with parsley when served. 

CLAM CHOWDER.— Take 1 quart of clams and chop them fine; 
6 large fresh crackers, 1 onion, sliced, G potatoes, cut in dice. In an 
iron pot fry 2 slices of salt pork; take it out soon, leaving the fat in 
the pot; put in 2 or 3 slices of onion, then a layer of jjotatoes, then a 
layer of the choj^ped clams, sprinkle well with salt and i^epper; then 
a layer of the onion, then the bits of fried pork, cut into small pieces; 
add a layer of broken crackers; put in the remainder in the same 
way; then add the clam liquor, and enough water to more than cover 
them. Cook 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are done; add 2 cups 
hot milk just before serving. Sufficient for 8 persons. 

82 



SHELLFISH 83 

ESCALLOPED CLAMS.— Scald the clams, remove the hard part 
and clioj) the rest. Make a soup of the liquor, with enough water 
added to make it fresh enough; thicken it and make sufficiently rich 
with butter. Butter a scalloped dish, strew the bottom with bread or 
cracker crumbs, moisten them with the soup, then spread a layer of 
clams seasoned with pepper, and continue alternately till the dish is 
full, the last layer being crumbs moistened with soup. Bake | hour, 
and serve at once. 

ROAST CLAMS. — Scrub the shells, wash well, drain, and put 
them in a drix^ping^pan. Set them in a hot oven and as soon as 
the shells open serve them on the half shell, or in the whole shell, 
with salt, pepper, and slices of lemon. Serve toasted brown bread 
with them. Time to roast about 10 or 12 minutes. 

STEWED CLAMS Take 2 cups milk, add 1 teaspoon butter 

and a little white pepper and bring to a boil. Then add the clams, 
freshly opened, bring them to a boil, let simmer 4 or 5 minutes and 
serve. They will be tough and indigestible if boiled long. 

CLAMS ON TOAST.— Take the clams out of the shell and cut 
their heads ofP; boil them in their own liquor; skim it well, and add 
as much water or milk as there is liquor; thicken with flour or pow- 
dered rice to the consistency of cream; add butter, and pe^^per and 
salt to taste. Have some thin slices of buttered toast prepared, pour 
on enough of the liquor to soften the toast and lay 8 or 4 clams on 
each slice. Serve at once, on hot plates. Garnish with parsley. A 
teacup of hot water will "start the steam" for | peck of clams; the 
amount of liquor which each shell contains will surprise the novice. 
As few like the liquor full strength, it is better to dilute it one= 
half as above directed. 

CRABS; 

A crab of the medium size is the best, and the crab, like the 
lobster, should be judged by its weight. It should be heavy for 
its size, for if light, it is watery. They are called "soft shell crabs" 
when the new shell is forming, as they shed their shell annually. 
They are a similar shell -fish to lobster, and are prepared in the same 
ways for the table. 

BOILED HARD SHELL CRABS.— Put them into slightly salt- 
ed boiling water, and boil 12 to 15 minutes. Drain, season with 
pepper and salt, and with catsuj) or lemon juice. 

BROWNED CRABS.— Take the great shell, clean and butter it; 
mince all the fish, shred some parsley, mushrooms, truffles, and a 



84 SHELLFISH 

small onion. Brown these in a sauce=pan with a very little butter; 
put in the minced crab with the inside bruised, and some cayenne 
pepper and salt; stir this abovit, shake in some flour, and add a little 
coral. Let this simmer up, lill up the shell, strew over crumbs of 
bread with a small piece of butter; brown in a hot oven. 

DEVILED CRABS. — Boil the crabs, take out the meat and chop 
it fine; then add ^ as much bread crumbs, cream or a cream sauce, 
salt, pepper, cayenne, mustard and lemon juice. Clean the shells, 
fill them with the mixture, dust them with cracker crumbs, and bake 
them brown in a quick oven. Deviled crabs should always be sea- 
soned highly. 

ESCALLOPED CRABS — Take the meat of boiled crabs, chop it 
fine; add cream or cream sauce, chopped hard boiled egg, pepi)er 
and salt to season, and a little lemon juice. Clean the shells, put in 
the mixture, dust on bread crumbs, and bake brown in a quick oven. 

FRIED SOFT SHELL CRABS.— Remove the sand bags, etc., 
wash and dry them; sprinkle on pepper and salt, roll them in flour, 
then in egg, then in bread or cracker crumbs, and fry in hot fat. 

KROMESKIES OF CRABS.— Boil for 40 minutes, 1 or more 
crabs; when cool, pick them out in as large pieces as possible. 
Mash fine the hard-boiled yolks of 4 eggs, add them to the crabs, 
with 1 tablespoon of chopped parsley, 1 whole egg well beaten, and a 
palatable seasoning of salt and cayenne. Mix 
carefully, and form into tiny rolls; wrap each in a 
very thin slice of bacon, dij) it in fritter batter, 
and fry in smoking hot fat. Serve on a napkin; 
garnish with cress. 

The flesh belonging to the claws of the crab is far less 
likely to disagree with the stomach than the soft part con- 
tained within the shell. Crabs are diflQcult of digestion, and so not suitable for 
invalids or dyspeptics. 

CRAl^FISH, PRAWNS AND SHRIMPS. 

These are much like lobsters, only smaller, and they are to be 
found in provision stores in hermetically sealed cans, already cooked, 
and the meats picked from the shells. They are used whole and 
boiled for garnishing boiled fowls and all kinds of boiled fish. They 
are boiled in the same manner as lobsters, but for a much shorter 
time, from 5 to 15 minutes being the rule. After boiling, they may 
be broken in pieces, shells and all together, and form a foundation 
for a delicious soup, with any additions preferred. 




SHELLFISH 



85 



These shell- fish make ornamental side dishes, served whole and 
garnished with parsley and nasturtiums. 

BUTTERED SHRIMPS OR PRAWNS. Pick 1 pint of shrimps 
or prawns, and put them in a stew pan with | pint of bouillon; add a 
thickening of butter and flour; season to taste with salt, cayenne and 
nutmeg, and sinnner gently for 3 minutes. Serve on a dish gar- 
nished with fried bread or toasted sippets. Cream sauce may be 
substituted for the gravy. 

CURRIED CRAY=FISH, PRAWNS AND SHRIMPS.— For a 

can of these shelhfish, melt a small cup of butter in a pan; add a 
saltspoon of curry=powder, a sour apple chopped finely, the juice of a 
lemon, and ^ pint of hot water; a small onion may be added if liked. 
When all the ingredients are well scalded together, add a tablespoon 
of corn starch wet with a little water, and stir until it thickens; "add 
the can of shelhfish to the curry sauce. Let it get quite hot — do not 
boil — then serve. 

POTTED CRAY=FISH, PRAWNS OR SHRIMPS.— Pick the 

meat from 50 cray fish and pound it to a paste in a mortar; season 
with salt, pepper, a little nutmeg, and a piece of butter the size of an 
egg. The butter must be slightly softened, but not melted, and the 
ingredients should be thoroughly mixed. Put it in small earthen 
pots, pack tightly, and 
cover with salad oil; 
then cover in such a 
way as to entirely ex- 
clude the air. The 
earthen j)ot can be had 
of apothecaries, with the 
covers, the potted cray= oeay=fish. 

fish should be kept in a 
cool, dry, dark place. 

Prawns and shrimps may be potted in 
the same manner. 

SHEIMP. 

Shrimps and })rawns, although not easy of 
digestion nor adapted to a weak stomach, are less likely to disagree than crabs or 
lobsters. 

LOBSTERS, 

The largest lobsters are not as good as those of a medium size, 
and those full of eggs are inferior. Lobsters should be put in cold 
water to boil, for they are dead as soon as the water becomes warm, 
and suffer less than when plunged into boiling water; they are done 





86 SHELLFISH 

when they have boiled about 20 niinntes. Lobsters are not poison- 
ous if i)erfectly fresh; there is no poison "lady" in the lobster. The 
stomach near the head is, of course, taken out, and also the "string" 
or intestine which goes through the lobster; all the rest is edible. 
The green tomally or liver can be eaten, and do not waste the sweet 
meat between the bones of the body. Lobsters that were alive when 
XDut into the water to boil, will have the tail curled up, while one that 
was dead will have the tail extended. Long or slow cooking will 
toughen lobsters and make them indigestible. Brushing the large 
shells on the outside with olive oil, is thought to preserve the bright 
red color. Cayenne pepper, mustard, vinegar or lemon juice, should 
be eaten with lobsters; they are digested with difficulty. 

To kill a lobster quickly and easily, cut the spinal cord by pushing a 
long, narrow=bladed knife into the tail, slanting the blade downward, 
and inserting it at the third joint, counting from the end. 

Lobster Coral can be kept a long time if put in a jar or bottle and 
covered with vinegar. To use, soak about an hour in water, and 
then in milk for the same time; wipe dry, and use like fresh coral. 
During the season it is well to preserve surplus coral in this way, for 
coloring soups, etc. 

LOBSTERS AU GRATIN. -Split the tail and body of the lob- 
ster, removing the fish and taking care not to break the shells; mince 
the fish, and put all into a stew=pan with a little good stock, and pep- 
per and salt; mix it well, fill the shells with the mixture, cover them 
well with bread crumbs, brush over with clarified butter, and brown 
it in a hot oven. 

BROILED LOBSTER.— After being boiled, a lobster may be 
broiled as follows: Take the claws off and crack them, split the body 
and tail in two, season well with pepper, salt, and cayenne, and broil. 
Serve with plain butter, or with a little heated catsup, dashed with 
Worcestershire sauce. 

BUTTERED LOBSTER.- A buttered lobster should be first 
boiled and broken up. Take out all the meat, cut it small and put it 
in a stew pan with plenty of butter, a little pepper, salt, and vinegar, 
and stir till it is hot. If a handsome dish of 2 or 3 lobsters be de- 
sired, the tails should be halved and broiled, and put round the dish 
with the minced lobster in the middle. 

LOBSTER CANAPES— For this, there must be the meat of a 
medium sized lobster, cut in small pieces, and mingled with the 
green fat; pour over it a very little salad oil and vinegar, just enough 



SHELLFISH 87 

to moisten it well, and let it stand 10 or 15 minutes. Cut thin slices 
of bread for the croutons, trim off the crust to make them square, or 
cut them with fancy=shaped cutters, and fry them a delicate brown, 
on a griddle well buttered; spread the croutons on a i^latter gar- 
nished with parsley; on the croutons spread the lobster, and on the 
lobster may be placed thin slices of lemon, or sprinkle them well 
with capers. 

LOBSTER CREAMED. — Chop finely a medium sized lobster and 
pour over it a pint of cream; put in a cup of bread crumbs, and .H 
eggs well beaten, with a little salt and pepper; butter a mold, fill in 
the mixture, invert a plate over the top, and steam for an hour. 
Serve with any nice fish sauce. 

LOBSTER CURRY. Put ^ cup of butter in a frying-pan, and 
when melted, stir into it 2 tablespoons of fiour and 1 heaping salt- 
spoon of curry powder; stir constantly until it is brown; then gradu- 
p,lly add | pint of hot water, stirring rapidly until it thickens; season 
with salt to taste. Chop coarsely the meat and fat of a medium=sized 
lobster, and add it to the curry sauce; simmer 5 or 6 minutes, or un- 
til it is quite hot; if onion is liked, rub the hot platter with a raw on- 
ion; place on the platter slices of nicely-toasted bread, and pour the 
curried lobster over the toast. Serve hot. 

DEVILED LOBSTER.— Cut lobster fine, and season it highly 
with salt, cayenne, mustard, chopped parsley, onion juice, if desired, 
and some pungent sauce, like Worcestershire; place the mixture in 
the lobster shell, sprinkle bread crumbs over the top, with bits of 
butter, and bake till brown on top. Eat hot or cold. 

LOBSTER PATTIES. — Chop a mediumssized lobster very finely, 
and mix with it the juice of a lemon, a little salt, and white pepper, 
and salad oil enough to moisten it, if not moist enough; line patty= 
pans with puff paste and put into each a small piece of bread; put on 
a top crust of paste, brush over with beaten egg, and bake; when 
done, take off the top crust, remove the bread, fill the patties with 
minced lobster (after stirring it over the fire with the seasoning 
for 2 or 3 minutes); then replace the top crusts. 

STEWED LOBSTER.— Cut the lobster small and put it in a 

stew pan, and add just a little water, milk or cream, the latter being 
best, although the first will answer; let it boil up, add a teaspoon of 
butter, and pej^per and salt to season, and serve hot, either on toast 
or plain. 



88 SHELLFISH 

The flesh found in the claws of the lobster is more delicate and digestible than 
that found in the tail, but all lobster meat is difficult of digestion and not suited to 
invalids or dyspeptics. 

MUSSELS. 

These cheap and excellent shellfish are sometimes called the 
poor man's oyster. They are sometimes eaten raw, but it is better to 
cook them. They can be fried, broiled, stewed, or pickled, being us- 
ually prepared for the market by pickling. The " moss," or byssus, 
which serves to attach them to rocks, etc., is usually removed, be- 
ing considered j3oisonous, although there is no proof of that. Still, 
it is better to remove it after being boiled and before serving them. 

BOILED MUSSELS.— Clean the shells and put them in a kettle 
with water slightly salted and containing a little vinegar; heat until 
the shells open, and they will be done. Remove them from the 
shells, trim off the "moss,'' strain the liquor, add a little flour, the 
yolks of 1 or 2 eggs, pour over the mussels and serve at once. Chop- 
ped parsley may be added if desired. 

The mussel more often exerts a deleterious effect than any other shell=fish. It 
often has a poisonous effect, the reason for which is not clearly understood. 

OYSTEKS. 

Oysters are only good during the months containing an "r" 
(that is, from September to April) as their multiplying season is 
during the warm weather, and at that time they are soft and tasteless. 
They are not easily kept in warm weather, being a fish that quickly 
spoils. Canned oysters can be used in hot weather if liked, for they 
are only canned in their season. In cooking oysters, great care 
should be taken that they may not be cooked too long, as that pro- 
cess hardens them. They are easily digested and are commonly 
given to invalids, although cooking renders them a little less digesti- 
ble; if too much cooked, they are tough and leathery. Always buy 
the "solid" oysters, or those containing very little juice, as they are 
sometimes watered and it is more economical to water them yourself 
The smallest oysters are used for stews and escallops, and are sold by 
measure, as are the " straits," that is, the large and small mixed. 
The largest oysters are usually sold by the dozen for broiling and 
frying; they are called "counts," and "selects." 

Never salt oysters until just before serving, as cooking them 
with salt hardens them. They should be served at once after being 
cooked. Be sure that all bits of shell are removed before cooking. 
Do not open theiu until just before using if wanted raw; if to be 
cooked, do not keep them long after being opened. As the crabs are 
usually regarded as a delicacy, save any which are found among the 



SHELLFISH 89 

oysters. As oysters in cooking produce liquor enough of their own. 
there is less need of saving their liquor. 

BROILED OYSTERS — Take as many large oysters as are 
needed, dry them in a towel, rub butter on the bars of a wire grid- 
iron, brush a little over the oysters, and broil over a clear fire. If 
the wires of the gridiron are close together, smaller ones can be 
broiled. Arrange them on toast, season and serve. Or they can be 
dipped in melted butter, then rolled in crumbs which are seasoned 
with pepper and salt, and broiled until the juice flows; this saves the 
juice more and many people prefer it. 

CREAMED OYSTERS— Cook 3 tablespoons of flour and 2 table- 
spoons of butter together until they bubble; add 1 cup of milk and 1 
cup of oyster liquor, and stir until you have a thick sauce; into this 
drop 1 quart of oysters freed from their liquor. Have ready an egg 
beaten light in a cup, mix some of the hot sauce with it, turn all 
back into the saucepan, stir 1 minute (not longer) and take from the 
fire. Season with salt, pepper and the juice of half a lemon. Serve 
on toast, or put the creamed oysters into buttered scallop=shells; 
sprinkle with crumbs, dot with butter, and brown in a quick oven. 
Eat hot. 

DEVILED OYSTERS. — ^Drain the oysters and dry in a clean 
towel; then put them in a dish, and cover with a mixture of melted 
butter and vinegar or lemon juice, adding a little pepper sauce or 
cayenne pepper if desired; let them soak 5 or 10 minutes and take 
them out; dip them in fine cracker crumbs, then in beaten egg, and 
again in crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

ESCALLOPED OYSTERS.— Koll 1 quart of crackers fine with 
the rolling pin. Grease the baking dish as you would before baking a 
cake in it. Put a layer of cracker crumbs in the dish; drain the liq- 
uor from the oysters and add twice the quantity of milk to it; mois- 
ten the crumbs with some of this, then put in a layer of oysters with 
a seasoning of salt, i)epper and bits of butter. Put in the layers of 
crumbs alternately with the oysters in this way until all are in, with 
a layer of crumbs and bits of butter on top. Beat 1 egg and add to 
it the remainder of the milk and oyster liquor, or if none remains, 
add a little milk to the egg and pour it over all. Put a covet over 
it and bake | hour; then remove the cover and bake ^ hour longer 

FRIED OYSTERS. — Take large sized oysters, parboil slightly, 
drain, sprinkle with pepper and salt and cool 20 minutes. Then 
roll each one separately in bread crumbs, then in beaten eggs and 



00 SHELLFISH 

milk mixed, then again season, and again roll in bread crumbs. Put 
into smoking hot fat and fry 1 minute; take out, lay on paper to ab- 
sorb surplus grease, garnish and serve. 

They can also be fried in the frying-pan. Prepare as above, roll 
in cracker crumbs only, and fry on each side until brown, using but- 
ter for the fat. 

FRICASSEE OF OYSTERS.— Put about 75 oysters on the fire in 
their liquor and an equal quantity of chicken broth ; add the juice of 

1 lemon, and when all comes to a boil, remove from the fire; in an- 
other stew'pan j)ut a tablespoon of butter, 1| tablespoons of flour; 
stir them together carefully so as not to color; add, slowly, the liquor 
and oysters from the other stew=pan, then the beaten yolks of 4 
eggs, 1 saltspoon of white pepper and salt mixed, 1 tablespoon of 
chopped parsley; let the mixture become thoroughly hot, but do not 
boil; serve as soon as possible. 

OYSTER FRITTERS.— Have ready a batter made as follows: 
Dissolve 1 heaping tablespoon of butter in 4 tablespoons of water or 
oyster liquor, and stir to this 1| tablesi^oons of sifted flour; mix well 
over the fire. Take it off and mix in, one after the other, 3 eggs, and 
a little salt. Beard and scald the oysters, dip each into the batter, 
fry lightly in smoking hot fat, and serve. 

OYSTERS ON THE HALF SHELL — Do not open them until 
just before they are served, and then leave each one in half the shell. 
Allow about ^ doz. large oysters for each guest. Put them on a din- 
ner plate, and in the center of the dish put 1 or 2 slices of lemon cut 
thin. 

OYSTERS AND MACARONI.— Take some macaroni, boil until 
soft, put a layer into a baking dish, then put in a layer of oysters; 
season with salt, pepper and butter, and so on with alternate layers 
of macaroni and oysters, until the dish is full. Then bake till 
Ijrown, and serve. 

OYSTER OMELET.— Beat the yolks and whites of 6 eggs separ- 
ately; to the yolks add ^^ cup of rich milk or thin cream, a little salt, 
and 12 oysters, chopped fine. Put butter in your frying pan, as for 
an ordinary omelet, and allow it to heat while you are mixing the 
whites of the eggs with the rest of the ingredients. Mix the whole 
lightly and turn into the pan. Shake to prevent burning, and as 
soon as the omelet is set, or begins to be firm, turn one half over the 
other half quickly, slip on to a hot i^latter and serve at once. Good, 
but not as economical as many dishes. 



SHELLFISH 91 

PANNED OYSTERS — Remove the crust from thin slices of 
stale bread, toast it, cut it in pieces, and fit them into muffin or 
patty=pans; moisten with oyster liquor; put oysters on the toast, 
sprinkle with pepper, and put a bit of butter on each one; cover with 
a dripping=pan, or any convenient cover to prevent the escape of 
steam, and cook in a quick oven; they will be done when the oysters 
curl (in 6 or 8 minutes). Then sprinkle with salt, and serve hot. 

OYSTER PATTIES — Make a rich puff paste and bake it in 
earthen sauce dishes. Wash nice fresh oysters in warm, salted 
water; drain and put in a sauce=pan, with a piece of butter, a little 
salt, ijepper, and nutmeg, if liked. Cook them only until they are 
plump, stirring with a silver fork while plumping; when cold, fill the 
crusts and send to the table. If liked hot, the crusts can be filled, 
before baking, with the plumped oysters, and sent from the oven to 
the table. 

OYSTER PIE — Line a deep pie=dish with puff paste; dredge 
with flour; pour in 1 pint of oysters, season with butter, salt, j)epper, 
and sj)rinkle a little flour over the oysters; pour on some oyster liquor 
and cover with a crust, with a hole in the top for steam to escape. 
Bake 30 minutes. 

PICKLED OYSTERS.— Put 100 oysters in a sauce=pan, and let 
them simmer gently in their own liquor for about 10 minutes; take 
them out one by one, put in jars, and when cold, cover with a pickle 
made as follows: Measure the oyster liquor and add to it the same 
amount of vinegar, and for each cup of vinegar, add 1 blade of 
pounded mace, 12 cloves, and a strip of lemon peel; boil 5 minutes, 
and when cold, i^our it over the oysters and cover closely. 

PIGS IN BLANKETS. — Choose large oysters, season with pep- 
per and salt; wraj) each one. in a slice of bacon cut very thin, and 
fasten with a wooden toothpick. Cook in a hot frying=pan just long 
enough to crisj) the bacon. Have small pieces of toast ready, put 
each "pig" on one, without removing the skewer; serve at once. 

RAW OYSTERS. — In cold weather these are much better to lie 
a short time in warm salted water; this takes the chill from the juice- 
of the oyster, and they are more agreeable than when very cold, as 
they will be in winter. They may be eaten with just salt, pepper, 
and vinegar, but some persons like them served with one of the ap- 
petizing sauces. Nice bread and butter sandwiches are good with 
raw oysters. 

At large dinners where raw oysters are served, they are some- 



92 SHELL FISH 

times brought to each individual place before the company is seated. 
It is a pleasant and homelike way for the host to serve them from a 
platter before him, on small dessertplates. Drain the oysters M^ell, 
arrange them on a platter, sprinkle with salt and pejjper and slice 
lemon over them. Thin slices of buttered brown bread may be 
served with the oysters. Let them stand in the ice chest ^ hour 
before serving. 

STEAMED OYSTERS. — Drain them, lay on a plate and set in 
the steamer, and steam for about 10 minutes till they look white and 
plump. Use the liquid for a dressing; beat it, mix with an equal 
quantity of cream, and thicken it with a little corn=starch. 

OYSTER STEW — Put the liquor from 1 pint of oysters with 1 
cup of sweet milk in a kettle; let it just boil, add the oysters and let 
it boil up once ; then season with pepper, salt, and butter, with a few 
crackers toasted and broken in pieces. Never salt oysters until just 
before removing from the fire, or they will shrivel and harden. 

SMOTHERED OYSTERS.— Put a piece of butter the size of an 
egg into a sauce^pan, with a little salt, white pepper and cayenne. 
Have ready a pint of oysters, which have been washed in warm water 
slightly salted, and thoroughly drained and dried on a napkin; wdien 
the butter is hot, put in the oysters and cook them until they are 
plump (2 or 3 minutes); stir them carefully all the time with a silver 
fork to prevent them from sticking to the sauce=pan. Serve on 
toasted crackers. 

OYSTER TOAST. — Chop fine 1^ dozen good large oysters, and 
season with pepper, salt, and a dash of nutmeg. Beat together ^ cup 
of cream and yolks of 2 eggs; heat the oysters till they simmer, stir 
in the egg and cream, and pour it on prepared slices of buttered 
toast, 

OYSTERS UNSHELLED — Take oysters in the shell; wash and 
scrub the shell till perfectly clean; then, to keep in the juice, set 
them with the round shell down. Either steam them in the steamer 
10 to 20 minutes, or roast them over hot- coals on a gridiron, or put 
them in the dripping=pan on top of the stove, or in the hot oven. 
They will be done when the shells oj)en. Then take off the flat top 
shell, and season each one with a little butter, salt, pepper, and lem- 
on juice. Serve hot. This method retains the natural flavor of the 
oyster better than any other. 

Oysters are wholesome and nutritious, but are more digestible when raw than 
when cooked, as cooking usually hardens and toughens them. 




SHELLFISH 93 

SCALLOPS. 

This fish somewhat resembles the oyster in 
appearance and the crab in taste. It is com- 
paratively little known, although when fresh 
and well cooked it is very delicious. It is found 
in all parts of the world, and in ancient times 
the shells were used extensively in cookery, giv- 
ing us our prefix of " scalloped." They are in 
season in fall and winter. The muscle by which the scallop. 

it opens and closes its shell is the only part eaten. They can be 
stewed like oysters, or fry them, which is a better way. 

FRIED SCALLOPS.— Kinse them in cold water slightly salted, 
and dry in a napkin; dip them in cracker dust seasoned with pepper 
and salt, then in egg, then in crumbs again, and fry in hot fat. They 
are sometimes dredged with flour and fried in a frying=pan with pork 
fat, and some people prefer them that way. 

TERRAPIN OR TURTLE. 

To dress terrapin, cut off the head and bleed thoroughly, then 
soak in cold water for an hour. Next boil 10 or 15 minutes, take it 
out into cold water and with a coarse cloth rub off all the black skin. 
Have another water heating in the kettle, and when the turtle is 
cleaned, boil until the shell loosens; the time will vary from ^ hour 
to 2 hours, according to the age of the terrapin. When done, put in 
cold water again, take off the under shell and carefully take out the 
galhsack and the liver and sand bag, and throw away the head. 

Be careful not to break the galbsack, or the gall will escape and 
spoil the whole dish. Save the juice that runs from the meat, open- 
ing it over a bowl for that purpose. The eggs and meat are served 
in various ways. If made into a soup or stew, the eggs are put in 
and served with it; if served in other ways, the eggs are used with 
other decorations, as a garnish. In whatever way served, the meat 
must be cut finely. ' - ^ 

ESCALLOPED TERRAPIN.— Put a cup of butter in a sauce pan, 
melt, and stir in 2 tablespoons of flour; then pour on a pint of hot 
water, stirring rapidly, to make a smooth gravy; pound the terrapin 
eggs to a paste and add with salt, pej^jDer, and a trifle of nutmeg to 
taste; then strain. For a quart of finely cut terrapin, have a quart 
of bread crumbs made fine ; put a layer of terrapin on the bottom of a 
pudding dish, then a layer of crumbs, then of sauce, and so fill the 
dish, having a layer of crumbs on the top. Add sweet milk enough 



94 SHELL FISH 

to show through the top layer of crumbs if it is not sufficiently moist; 
put on a few bits of butter, and bake 20 minutes in a hot oven. 
Serve with slices of lemon. 

TERRAPIN STEW — Make a sauce as for escalloped terrapin; 
put in the meat, cut finely, and let it get hot, but do not let it boil 
longer than a minute. Add lemon juice to the stew if liked. Serve 
with croutons or toasted crackers. 



SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH 
AND MEATS. 

fT is of much importance that the cook should know how to make 
a good sauce for her meats, etc. A great deal of the elegance 
of cooking depends upon having the accompaniments of each 
dish appropriate and well adapted to it. The most homely fare 
may be made relishing, and the most excellent improved, by a well 
made sauce. It may safely be asserted that a first rate sauce maker is 
also a good cook. Sauces are necessary in the most modest kitchen, 
and they are as easily made rightly as wrongly, if one only knows 
how, so that this branch of the art of cookery deserves very careful 
attention. A busy and economical houses wife will sometimes say she 
has no time or money for sauces, when as a matter of fact she cannot 
afford to do without them, for, by using flavorings is the best way to 
induce the system to take plain food with relish; and when we say 
this, we are not unmindful of the old saying that " hunger is the best 
sauce." Animals certainly would hardly be considered over particu- 
lar, and yet they have been known to starve in the experimenter's 
hand rather than eat a nutritious food from which the flavor had 
been extracted and of which they had become tired. We are con- 
vinced that poor people especially are too much inclined to neg- 
lect the very imj)ortant matter of flavorings and relishes for their 
food. 

The Utensils. — To make sauces successfully, proper utensils should 
be provided. The most essential are wooden spoons and round bot- 
tomed sauce=pans. It is very difiicult to prevent lumps in a sauce if 
it has to be made with a pointed spoon and a flat bottomed pan. All 
utensils must, of course, be scrupulously clean. Sauces are best 
cooked in a double boiler to guard against scorching them in the 
least, which should be carefully avoided. 

Herbs, etc. — Do not be appalled at the number of ingredients, like 
thyme, mace, parsley, etc., called for in a recipe. A few cents will 
buy enough of all these things to last for a year, and the good cook 
aims to keep a small supply of all flavoring herbs on hand; but if 
you do not have them all, very good results may be produced with 
less. 

Thickening — The most common thickening for sauce is flour. 
The quantity generally used is one ounce, or a heaping tablespoon, to 

95 



96 SAUCES FOK FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 

a pint of liquid; though 2 or 3 times that is needed to make a sauce 
thick enough to adhere to what it is poured over. Corn^starch or ar- 
row-root is often used instead of flour, and makes a smooth and more 
delicate sauce. All sauces containing flour or any other form of 
starch for thickening, must boil, and must be stirred nntil it boils, 
or the starch will settle to the bottom and make lumps, instead of 
thickening the whole. Although the starch swells, and thickens the 
liquid even before the boiling point is reached, even in this pulver- 
ized form the starch needs to cook ten minutes at least, to he made 
digestible; it should be remembered that all starch needs at least 10 
to 20 minutes cooking. 

There is some difference in the quality of flour and it does not 
thicken the same at one time as another. Dry flour must never be 
mixed with hot liquid unless it is intended to form lumjjs; but it 
must first be stirred to a smooth paste with cold li(|uid, and then the 
hot poured over it, or it must be mixed with a little melted fat over 
the fire when hot, or cold liquid can be gradually added. As a gen- 
eral rule, the following is the best way to mix all flour sauces: Melt 
the fat, stir in the flour, and when they are well mixed, and there are 
no lumps, add liquid gradually, on or off the flre, stirring continu- 
ously till all boils. Sometimes the flour is cooked in the fat until it 
takes a brown color, more or less dark. Sauces thus made have a 
fine flavor, and are smooth and free from grease. 

All the different kinds of brown sauces are made by using brown 
stock, browning the butter, and using various seasoning materials. 
As flour, when cooked into brown roux does not thicken quite as 
much as when uncooked, rather more is needed. 

Eggs are also used to thicken sauces, sometimes the yolk only, 
sometimes both yolk and white, and both with and without the addi- 
tion of flour. They must be well stirred and never allowed to heat 
to boiling, as the yolk then hardens, and will not mix with the sauce ; 
but they must be heated enough to slightly coagulate the albumen, 
or the sauce does not thicken. To pour boiling water very gradually 
over the eggs in a basin is often sufficient. The safest way to cook 
an egg sauce is in a basin or pitcher standing in a pan of boiling 
water, or in a bain marie made on purpose; but an ordinary sauce- 
pan can be used if care is exercised. On the least appearance of 
" curdling," the sauce should be lifted from the fire, poured into a 
cold basin, and stirred. 

Coloring for Sauces. — It may be said that sauces should as a rule 
be of some decided color. In order to get these decided colors, ar- 
tificial coloring matter is often used. Brown is the most common 



SAUCES FOE FISH, SHELLFISH AND MEATS 97 

and the most harmless, for it is produced by roasted flour, sugar or 
vegetables, which add to the flavor as well as appearance, if not 
carried to the point of burning. Onion skins contain much col- 
oring of a harmless kind. Home made brown roux is to be i^eferred 
to that "which is bought, and is much cheaper. Milk, cream, or 
white stock are used in white sauces. Lobster spawn gives a bril- 
liant scarlet. Spinach green is always harmless, and is the only 
green suitable for kitchen use, as many greens contain arsenic. 
Other harmless colors are given in our article on frosting for cakes. 

Good fresh butter only should be used for first rate sauces. In- 
ferior or rancid butter should never be used; it is not as good as 
fresh beef dripping or fat. Where economy is studied, it is better 
to use less butter and have that good, than to buy a large quantity 
of cheap cooking butter. 

Meat should always be sufficiently fat to " cook itself," that is 
it should furnish enough oil for the gravy — if it does not, it is j)oor 
meat. Good salad oil is much used in salads, and dishes made of 
dry cooked meats, as the gravy is mostly served with the hot meat 
at dinner. 

Serve hot. — Gravies and sauces should be sent to the table very 
hot. Being made in small quantities, they are more liable to cool 
quickly than if they were in a larger body. If made before the mo- 
ment of serving, they should be kept in a sauce=pan of boiling water; 
a fish kettle makes a good improvised bain marie. 

Roux (pronounced Roo). — Brown Roux, for thickening gravies 
and sauces, is made by melting butter in a stew=pan and adding an 
equal quantity of flour. Stir constantly while it is browning, so that 
it will not burn; when of a nice yellowish brown, put it in jars, cover 
tightly, and keep it in a dry dark place. It is then ready to use at 
any time by taking 1 or 2 heaping spoonfuls, according to the quan- 
tity of soup, and stirring it in while the sou^d is boiling, and it will 
instantly thicken. This is the Brown Roux used by foreign cooks. 

The White Roux is made in the same manner; but only ^ cooked 
together for a few minutes without browning. Many prefer the bits 
of butter rolled in flour, and used as occasion requires; then there is 
no danger of rancidity or waste, as there might be if a quantity of 
roux was prepared and it was not needed for use, as expected. 

Condiments. — These are used to give a relish to food and gratify the taste. 
The principal condiments are salt, vinegar, oil, butter, herbs, spices, ginger, pep- 
per and mustard. Some of these, like mustard, are food and condiment combined. 
When taken in moderation they are conducive to health, but used to excess, they 
are highly injurious. 

It is dififtcult to draw a very distinct line between spices ^nd condiments, but 

7 



98 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 

spioes are generally added to articles of food containing sugar, while condiments 
are eaten with meat, and generally with any foods which contain common salt. 
Cloves and allspice are, however, eaten witli meat, find cinnamon, nutmeg and 
mace with sweet foods. Spices can be used in moderation, but if used in excess, 
they irritate the mucous membrane and are harmful, often causing dyspepsia. 



SAUCES 



ASPIC JELLY. — Take a tablespoon of good extract of meat 
add 2 quarts of water, a small onion cut finely, or a l)it of garlic, a 
pinch of celery-seed, a sprig of thyme, a carrot cut finely, with the 
rind of a lemon, and a few drops of tarragon vinegar. Let nil boil 
slowly together until the vegetables are soft. Have 2 large table- 
spoons of gelatine soaking in cold water enough to cover, and add 
when the vegetables are done. Stir in the softened gelatine until it 
is dissolved, and add the juice of the lemon, with the whites of 2 
eggs slightly beaten; now let come to a boil, then set back on the 
range for 15 minutes. Strain through a jelly bag until clear, pour 
into a mould and place on ice. Aspic jelly is used as a garnish for 
various meat dishes. A jAnin lemon jelly made with gelatine, an- 
swers every j)urpose for decorations, instead of this elaborate jelly. 

BORDEAUX SAUCE. 



2 cjuarts of cider vinegar. 

2 quarts finely chopped green 

tomatoes. 
2 quarts finely chopped cabbage 
1 ounce of turmeric. 
1 teaspoon celery seed. 



1 teaspoon ground ginger. 

1 teaspoon ground cloves. 

1 heaiDing teaspoon of salt. 

1 teaspoon of ground mustard. 

1 teaspoon of ground black j)epper. 

1 heaping teaspocn of sugar. 
Mix all together and cook until soft, stirring often to prevent 
sticking to the sauce=pan. Cork tightly in wide mouthed bottles, 
and keei3 in a dry, cool place. A good meat sauce. 

Cloves are the dried flower buds of the clove tree, an 
evergreen tree belonging to the myrtle order. Our supplies 
come principally from Zanzibar and the West Indies. They 
contain a considerable quantity of a pungent oil which is 
aromatic and stimulant. 

BREAD SAUCE.— Dry white bread or rolls 
thoroughly in the oven, but do not brown them; 
then roll on the moulding board, put it in the fine 
colander, and sift through the finer crumbs. Put 
the fine crumbs in a sauce-pan, and for each 
cup, add 2 cups stock or water, a slice of onion, '^"^ clove. 

with pepper and salt; simmer 20 minutes. In 
the meantime put a piece of butter the size of an egg in the small 




SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 99 

frying=pan, and when melted add the coarser crumbs of bread; stir 
continually until they are a nice golden brown. Take the onion 
from the sauce, add the browned bread crumbs, and serve in a sauce^ 
boat. This sauce can be made with fresh sweet milk instead of 
stock, and is served with g/mie. 

ANCHOVY SAUCE.— Take 1 cup of drawn butter sauce, and 
add 1 tablespoon of anchovy paste or extract. 

BECHAMEL OR WHITE SAUCE.— Put |- a cup of butter in a 
sauce pan and let it soften; mix with it 2 tablespoons of fl(jur, then 
add 1 pint of milk; set the sauce pan in a larger one containing hot 
water, stir constantly until it thickens, and let it scald; rub out the 
lumps, and season with pepper and salt. This can be used as a 
foundation for many other sauces. A few bits of celery, sprigs of 
parsley and a little nutmeg can be added, with a sliced onion, if 
desired, for flavor; scald 15 minutes, strain through cloth to 
remove onion, etc., and send to the table. It is often made with ^ 
milk and | stock. 

BROWN SAUCE. — Fry 1 tablespoon of chopjoed onion in 1 
tablespoon of butter; let this brown, but not burn, and then add 1 
heaping tablespoon of flour;, stir thoroughly and then add (a little at 
a time) 1 cup of hot stock," stirring rapidly until it is smooth and 
thick. Season to taste with pepper and salt, let it simmer 5 min- 
utes; remove the onion by straining the sauce. Leave out the onion 
if its flavor is not liked. Color with caramel. This will serve as the 
ff)undation for many sauces by using various flavoring materials. 

DRAWN BUTTER SAUCE.— Put 2 tablespoons of butter into a 
sauce-pan and melt it, but do not let it turn brown; then add 1 
tablespoon of flour and mix well; then add (a little at a time) 1 cup 
of hot water, or white stock if you have it, stirring it thoroughly. 
When smooth, add 1 large tablespoon of butter, cut in pieces, and stir 
it in thoroughly. Add pepper and salt to season, and strain it if not 
X)erfectly smooth. This can be used as the foundation for many other 
sauces. A few drops of lemon juice or vinegar can be added by 
those who want it acid, and a little finely cut parsley can be added 
also if desired. 

Maitre d' Hotel Butter.— Melt a teacup of butterin a sauce^pan; 
stir into it a tablespoon of corn=starch, then a pint of hot water; stir 
well so that it will be smooth. Add the strained juice of a lemon, 
a saltspoon of cayenne; salt to taste and add 2 large spoons of 
chopped parsley. It is served with meat or boiled fish. 

Butter, Montpelier.— Pick the leaves from water cress, which must 
be green and fresh^ chop them finely, dry them in a cloth an^ 



100 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 



mince again; then thoroughly mix them with fresh l)utter until it is 
of a bright green, seasoning with the pepper, or cayenne and salt. 
This is used as an appetizer, for spreading croutons, or to make a 
garnish for savory dishes. 

Horseradish Butter. -Thoroughly mix pqual parts of horseradish 
and butter, pass through a sieve and it is ready for use. 

Garlic or Tarragon Butter can be prepared the same way, regulat- 
ing the flavor by the proportion of butter used to the other ingredi- 
ents. 

Nut Butters. — Peanuts, hazel nuts, filberts or other nuts can be 
pounded, mixed with butter, and then passed through a sieve. The 
strength can be regulated by the proportions used. They are deli- 
cious and easily "made 

Scented Butter. — Butter can be worked in a bowl with a few drops 
of the essence of any scent desired, then passed through a sieve, and 
it is ready for use. 

CAPER SAUCE. — Melt a cup of butter in a sauce=pan, stir in 2 
tablespoons of flour, then add a pint of hot water, stirring rapidly 
while it boils and thickens; add a little salt if needed, a trifle of 
white pepper, and ab;)ut a gill of pickled capers. Caper sauce is 
served with l)oiled fish, boiled mutton and lamb. 

Mock Capers. — Pick full grown seeds of nasturtiums, but which 
have not turned yellow, leaving 2 inches of the stem attached; wash 
them, put in a glass jar, add vinegar enough to 
cover, and in 7 or 8 days they can be used. 

Capers are the unopened buds of a low, trailing 
shrub growing in Asia and Africa, and they are now culti- 
vated in Europe. They are pickled in vinegar and salt 
before being imported, and are used to flavor sauces and 
vinegars. They have a pleasant pungent taste, and pos- 
sess both stimulant and laxative properties. They are 
sometimes colored green by the use of copper vessels, 
producing a poisonous adulteration. This can be 
detected by inserting a polished piece of steel or iron, 
and if copper is present it vyill coat the metal in a 
short time, the same as described for pickles. The hys- 
sop of Scripture is a variety of caper. 

^ . THE CAPEK. 

CAULIFLOWER SAUCE.— Make a drawn butter sauce with 
part cream, and to it add boiled cauliflower, cut into small dice. 
Nice for fried or boiled fowls. 

CELERY SAUCE Take G sticks of celery and cut the white 

part into ijieces | inch long; cook them in salted water for 20 min- 
utes, pour off the water and cover them with 1 pint of milk; boil 
until the celery is tender — about 15 minutes; add an even tablespoon 
of flour and a piece of butter the size of an egg; rub the flour 




SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 101 

smooth with a little cold milk; season with salt and cayenne to taste. 
Boil 2 minutes to thicken. 

CHESTNUT SAUCE.— Take 2 cups shelled chestnuts, and 
blanch them by putting them for 3 minutes into boiling water and 
then taking oif the skin; Cook till soft in salted water, and then 
mash very fine. Put 2 tablespoons of butter and 1 tablespoon of 
flour into a saucepan, and cook till brown; add it to the chestnuts, 
stir it in well, cook 3 minutes, and season to taste with i^epper and 
salt. Make a gravy of the drippings of the poultry, stir in the chest- 
nuts, and serve. Good for roast turkey. 

CHUTNEE SAUCE. 

1 cup granulated sugar. 1 clove of garlic. 

2 cups vinegar. ^ teaspoon mustard. 
Y tablespoon ground ginger. 1 large onion. 

15 sour apples. ^ teacup raisins, seeded and 

chopped. 
Peel, core and slice the apj)les, and stew soft in just enough 
vinegar to cover them; then mash finely. Chop the onions and gar- 
lic finely and add, with the sugar, raisins, salt, ginger and mustard; 
scald all together and set away till next day; then add the vinegar, 
cold, and mix all together thoroughly. Bottle and cork tightly, a id 
keep in a cool, dark place. Good for meat or fish. 

CURRANT SAUCE. 

1 cup of soup^stock. 1 mustard^spoon of cloves 

1 teaspoon of salt. and black pepper. 

1 tumbler of currant jelly. pJuice and rind of 1 lemon. 

Put a piece of butter the size of an egg in a sauce=iDan with the 
above ingredients, and let them come to the boiling point; then add 
1 tablespoon of corn=starch wet with a little water: stir until it 
thickens, then send to the table. Good with game and poultry. 

CREAM SAUCE. — Heat 2 tablespoons of butter in a sauce^pan, 
and stir in 2 tablespoons of flour; add a little salt and a little white 
pepper, then add gradually a i^int of hot cream. Scald the cream 
by putting it in a pitcher; set the pitcher in a tin dish or kettle of 
hot water, and set on the hot stove. Cream sauce is good to serve 
with an omelet, or any kind of boiled fish. 

CUCUMBER SAUCE.— Peel and chop finely 2 or 3 cucumbers 
(they must be so young that the seeds are small); choj:) one small 
onion and add to the cucundjers-. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne 
and vinegar; this is better liked by some people than the navy 
sauce. 



102 SAUCES FOE FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 



CRANBERRY SAUCE.- To serve with roasted tuikey: A pint 
of cranberries, ^ teacux) of su,t;ar, and | teacup of water is al^out the 
right proportion. Stew the cranberries in the water until they are 
tender; then add the sugar. 

CURRY SAUCE.— Slice thin 1 carrot, 2 onions, 1 head of cel- 
ery and stew in 2 tablespoons of butter, until tender; put in a pinch 
of mace, a teaspoon of curry powder and 1 of thyme leaves; add 1 
pint of water and a bay leaf; let it come to the boiling point; thicken 
with a tablespoon of flour, strain and serve. 

EGG SAUCE. — Take three hard boiled eggs, chop fine, and add 
to 1 cup of drawn butter sauce. Good for fish. 

FENNEL SAUCE.— Mix 1 tablespoon of 
flour and 1 cup water to a smooth batter; put 
into a sauce^pan, add 2 tablespoons of butter, 
season with salt, and keep stirring one way 
until all are melted; add 1 tal)lespo(m of fen- 
nel, chopped fine and free from dirt; simmer 
for 1 or 2 minutes, and serve. Excellent 
for oily fish like salmon or mackerel. 

Fennel is generally grown in gardens, and its ele- 
gant leaves are used to ornament and garnisli various 
dishes and they are sometimes used to flavor soups and 
sauces. 




THE FENNEL. 



FISH SAUCE. 

2 tablespoons of walnut catsup. 



1 teaspoon of salt. 



1 saltspoon of cayenne. 
1 qt. best cider vinegar. 
1 bruised garlic. 

Mix all together. Put in large bottles, after standing a week, 
stirring every day; cork tightly. Use with any fish. 

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE.— Rub A cup of butter to a cream, add 
the yolks of 2 eggs (one at a time) and beat well. Stir in the juice 
of half a lemon, 1 saltspoon of sfJt, and a pinch of cayenne pepper. 
When ready to serve, add -I cup of boiling water; place the bowl in a 
X3an of boiling water, or on the top of the -tea-kettle, and scald until 
as thick as custard, stirring all the time. This sauce is served with 
fish or meat. 

HORSERADISH SAUCE.- Thoroughly mix 4 tal)lespoons of 
grated horseradish witli 1 teaspoon of pounded sugar, 1 teasi^oon of 
salt, |- teaspoon of peppt'r and 2 teaspoons made mustard; moisten it 
with sufficient vinegar to give it the consistency of cream; 3 or 4 




HOKSEEADISH. 



SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELLFISH AND MEATS 10;] 

tablespoons of cream added will improve its appearance and flavor. 
To heat it to serve with hot roast beef, put in a bam marie, or put it 
in a cup or jar and place it in a i^an of boilinsjj water; make it hot, 
but do not allow it to boil, or it will curdle. This is a great improve- 
ment on the old=fashioned way of serving cold, scraped horse=radish 
with hot roast beef. Of course with cold meat the sauce should be 
served cold. 

Horseradish Sauce, No. 2. — Cook in a double boiler for 15 minutes, 
^ cup cracker crumbs, ^ cup grated horseradish, and 2 cujjs milk; add 
1 large tablespoon of butter, and salt and pepper to taste. Use 
freshly grated horseradish and rolled cracker 
crumbs. This is very appetizing. 

No. 3. — Take 2 cups horseradish grated fine, 
1 hard-boiled egg pulverized; add sweet cream, 
and a little butter; salt and vinegar to taste. 

Horseradish is a native of Europe and grows readily 
in damp ground. It should never be preserved by drying, 
because of the great volatility of its oil, but the root 
should be kept moist, by burying it in the sand. Its vola- 
tile oil evaporates so rapidly that even when scraped for 
the table it almost immediately spoils by exposure to the 
air. It stimulates the appetite and aids digestion, but is 
most unwholesome when taken on an empty stomach. 

LEMON SAUCE — For a boiled fowl take the chicken liver boil- 
ed and mashed fine; add the juice and pulp of one lemon (without 
the seeds) and add it to 1 cup of drawn butter sauce. 

LOBSTER SAUCE.— Take the meat from the tail and claws of 
a boiled lobster, choi3 it into dice ^ inch in size. Add it to a drawn 
butter sauce, and season with cayenne pepper, salt and lemon juice. 
Adding a teaspoon of lobster butter will make it a bright red. Good 
for any fish. 

MANDRAM SAUCE.— Take cucumbers, pare them, and chop in 
small pieces; take half the quantity of young onions and cut them 
fine; add the juice of a lemon and a dessert-spoon -of vinegai;. This 
is very good with any roast meat. 

MATELOTE SAUCE.— Peel and cut finely 2 large or 4 small, 
onions, and fry them in a little butter until they are a rich brown, 
but do not burn them; then add about half a teacup of butter. 
When it is all melted, stir in a tablespoon of flour, and when it is 
well browned in the butter, add half a pint of cold water; stir well 
and l(^t come to a boil. Season with ground white pepper, a little 
nutmeg, a sal tspoon of sugar, and salt to taste; rub all through the 
fine colander and return to the sauce pan to keep hot until wanted. 
Good with meats. 



104 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 

MISS MAITLAND'S MAYONNAISE — Take the raw yolks of 2 
eggs, ^ teaspoon of salt, a pinch of cayenne, a pinch of white pepper, 
a mustard spoon of made mustard, ^ teaspoon of lemon juice, ^ pint 
of olive oil. After all is thoroughly blended, add 2 tablespoons of 
tarragon vinegar. Good with fish. 

MILK SAUCE (PZrtm).— Melt I cup of butter in a sauce=pan; 
stir in 2 tablespoons of flour; then pour in and stir rajjidly 1 pint of 
scalded milk; season with salt and white pepper. 

MINT SAUCE.— Take 2 tablespoons sugar, ^ cup of finely cut 
mint, ^ cup vinegar; mix and let stand 1 or 2 hours before serving, to 
well season the vinegar with the mint. Use the leaves 
and tender tips only; wash them in slightly salt- 
ed water; then shake off the water, gather tightly in the 
hand, and cut finely with the scissors. 

Mint. — There are many varieties of mint, and the species are 
distributed nearly all ov.er the world. The green mint or spear- 
mint is the variety commonly used in cookery, the leaves being 
used in sauces and salads, and to counteract the flatulent proper- 
ties of some young vegetables. Spearmint is highly esteemed as 
an anti=spasmodic and stomachic. Peppermint is another variety, 
possessing the same properties, but is much stronger. The oil 
•which is extracted from it is a carminative and stimulant, and is 
used for flavoring lozenges, etc. Miisr. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE.— Put a piece of butter the size of an egg 
in a sauce^pan with 1 heaping tablespoon of sifted flour. Soften the 
butter and mix thoroughly with the flour; then add 1 pint of hot 
stock, broth, or hot water; boil up, and add 4 teaspoons of mush- 
room catsup, and the juice of 1 lemon; beat an egg thoroughly and 
stir into the sauce; remove immediately from the fire to prevent 
curdling. This sauce is served with poultry and game. 

MUSTARD SAUCE.— To 1 cup of drawn butter sauce, add a 
little cayenne pepper and three teaspoons of prepared mustard. 

Prepared Mustard. — Take 2 heaping tablespoons of ground mustard 
and add 1 teaspoon of sugar and |- teaspoon of salt; wet it with good 
vinegar and stir it to a smooth paste; then add more vinegar and 
cook it until it thickens like paste, adding more vinegar until of the 
consistency required. 

No. 2. — Put 3 large tablespoons of ground mustard into a bowl, 
and pour on enough warm water to make a stitf paste; rub smooth, 
add "I cup vinegar, a pinch of salt, and the beaten yolks of 2 eggs; set 
the mixture in b(jiling water, and stir constantly until it thickens; 
then add butter the size of an egg, and continue the stirring until it 
is dissolved. S^jlendid. 




SAUCES FOE FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS 105 

French Mustard. — Use 4 tablespoons of the best English mustard, 
2 teaspoons of salad oil, 2 teaspoons of white sugar, 2 teaspoons of 
salt, 1 teaspoon of white pepper, 1 small garlic minced very fine, and 
tarragon vinegar to mix to a smooth paste. Put the mustard into a 
bowl and add the oil, rubbing it in with a wooden spoon until it is 
all absorbed. Wet with the vinegar until jmju have a stiff paste; add 
the salt, pepper, garlic and sugar, and work all together thoroughly, 
wetting little by little with the vinegar until you can beat it as you 
do cake batter. Beat 5 minutes very hard; put into wide mouthed 
bottles — empty French mustard bottles are the thing, if you happen 
to have them — pour a little oil on the top, cork tightly and set away 
in a cool place. It will be well mixed and ready for use in 2 days. 

French Mustard, No. 2. — Take 2 tablespoons mustard, pour on it 
just enough boiling hot water to make a paste; then add a teaspoon of 
salt, and 1 of sugar, and add a few drops of salad oil if you have it, a 
little butter, then a tal)lespoon of vinegar. 

German Mustard. — Take 8 tablespoons of mustard, 4 tablespoons 
white sugar, 4 tablespoons salt, 1 saltspoon of cayenne pepper, 4 ta- 
blespoons of butter, and juice of 1 large raw onion; 
mix all well together, and moisten with a little 
vinegar. 

The flour of mustard in common use is ground from the 
seed of black mustard (sinapis nigra). It possesses an agree- 
able pungency, and is the best stimulant employed to impart 
strength to the digestive organs. In its present form it has 
only been in use about 150 years, although it was used long be- 
fore in a coarsly powdered state. Mixed with hot water, it is a 
strong emetic. In moderate quantities, both mustard and red 
pepper are useful with indigestible foods, like lobster, etc., as 
they are stimulant and aid in the digestion. Mustard is best 
mixed with cold water, as hot water impairs its essential prop- 
erties. It is well to prepare it in small quantities, as it is bet- ^^.^^a-^. 
ter when freshly made. 

NAVY SAUCE. — Chop finely 2 or 3 large onions, and season 
highly with salt, pepper and vinegar. This is fine for those who like 
raw onions, and is served with oysters raw or cooked. 

NUT SAUCE. — This is made by pounding to a paste, in a mor- 
tar, the meats of any kind of wild nuts (hazel nuts, hickory nuts,- 
butter=nuts, etc.) and mixing the paste wnth an equal amount of 
nice buttter. It is served with game, or poultry. 

OLIVE SAUCE. — Extract the salt from 1 doz. olives by soaking 
them I hour in warm water; then pare them close to the stone, 
round and round, as you would an apple, to remove the stone. Then 
put the olive into ^ pint brown sauce, simmer 10 to 15 minutes and 
serve. Good with roast duck or other o-ame. 




106 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL^FISH AND MEATS 

ONION SAUCE.— Take 3 good sized onions, boil them till soft, 
pulj) througli a sieve, and mix it into 1 cup white sauce. Good with 
mutton or lamb choj). 

OYSTER SAUCE. — Blanch small oysters, drain and dry in a 
towel, and add them to drawn butter sauce; put in a very little lemon 
juice or tarragon vin(\gar, let it come to the boiling point and serve. 
It goes with fish, lioiled turkey or chicken. 

PARSLEY SAUCE — Take 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley. 
and add it to 1 cup of hot drawn butter sauce. Color with si)inach 
green if you have it, as that will improve the app(\arance. 

PICKLE SAUCE. Take 2 or 3 tablespoons of finely chopped 
cucumber pickles, and add them to a drawn butter sauce. 

SAUCE PIQUANTE.— Add 1 tablespoon each of chopped cu- 
cumber pickles, capers and vinegar, to one cup of brown sauce. 

POTATO SAUCE — Grate 3 or 4 large potatoes, wash out the 
starch, and dry a little in a napkin; chop a small onion and mix 
with the raw potato. Season highly with salt, cayenne and vinegar. 
Good with raw or cooked oysters. 

PEPPER SAUCE. — Break in pieces 6 pods of red pepper, 3 
dozen black pepper=corns broken in a mortar, 2 tablespoons of white 
sugar, and 1 quart best vinegar. Scald the vinegar in which the 
sugar has been dissolved, pour it over the peppers, put in a jar, and 
steej) a fortnight; strain and bottle. This is served with raw oys- 
ters, or' fish, and is a fine addition to various salads. 

RAISIN SAUCE. — Cut in two and remove the seeds from 1 lb. 
of large choice raisins; put over the fire in a pint of hot water and 
stew slowly until tender; then add 1 pint of granulated sugar, | i)int 
of good vinegar, a pinch of salt, and a teaspoon of mixed ground cin- 
namon and cloves. Boil all together 10 minutes, and cork well in 
wide mouthed bottles. An excellent sauce for any cold meats. 

SAUCE ROBERT. — Cut finely 3 large onions, and fry in a 
piece of butter as large as an egg; caramel a tablespoon of sugar and 
add it to I pint of water, and 2 tablespoons of good cider or wine 
vinegar; add salt, ground white pepper, a saltspoon (jf dry mustard, 
and a pinch of pulverized sage. Boil well together and add a tea- 
spoon of cornstarch dissolved in a little water. This is good with 
most kinds of meat, game, or fish. 

SHRIMP SAUCE.-^Take | of a cup of chopped, picked, boiled 
shrimps, and add it to 1 cux? drawn butter sauce; let it merely sim- 



SAUCES FOE FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 107 

mer, without boiling, and add a pinch of cayenne, and a few drops of 
lemon juice the last thing. 

SAUCE SUPREME.— Chop 3 mushrooms finely, add 1 table- 
spoon of butter and the juice of half a lemon; mix it into 2 cups be- 
chamel sauce, let all simmer 10 minutes, rub through a strainer, and 
it is ready for use. 

TARTAR SAUCE. — Take 2 tablespoons each of Worcestershire 
sauce and vinegar, 1 tablespoon of lemon juice and 2 saltsj^oons of 
salt; put them into a bowl and set in a pan of hot water to heat. Put 
I cup of butter in a sauce pan, brown it, strain, and add to the other 
ingredients. Serve it hot with boiled fish. 

SAUCE TARTARE. — Put the yolks of 4 eggs into a sauce=pan, 
and add -J teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon mustard; then add alternately 
1 teaspoon each of olive oil and tarragon vinegar (adding them very 
gradually ) until it is of the right consistency. Then add 2 chopped 
shallots, or instead 2 tablespoons chopped pickled onions and gher- 
kins. This sauce is often too acid. It goes well with fried oysters 
or fish, or with boiled tongue or codfish. 

TOMATO SAUCE. — To (5 tomatoes add 2 cloves, pepper, salt 
and a sprig of parsley; stew 30 minutes, and strain through a sieve 
into a saucepan put butter the size of an egg, set over the fire, and 
when it bubbles well, add 1 large tablespoon flour; when well cooked 
(keexjing it stirred and mixed well) add the strained tomato; stir un- 
til smooth, and serve. This can also be made with canned -toma- 
toes. 

SAUCE VELOUTE.— Heat in melted butter, 1 pound of veal, cut 
finely, and any bits of fowl you may have, together with 12 good siz- 
ed mushrooms; do not let them brown; then put them into a sauce- 
l^an with two carrots and onions cut finely, a large tablespoon of 
flour, salt, pepper, a little mixed spice and as much veal gravy as will 
cover them. Let it boil up. skim ofl^ the fat, and let it simmer for an 
hour and a half; strain, and keep it covered for use. 

WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE. 

1 oz. of cayenne. 1 grated nutmeg. 
() anchovies (mashed). 1 oz. of salt. 

2 (][ts. vinegar. 6 cloves of garlic (minced). 
1 oz. black j)epper. 1 oz. cloves (pulverized). 

Mix all together and let it stand in a jug for 2 weeks; then 
strain and bottle for use. It must be tightly corked and kept in a 
dry, cool place. 



108 SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 

WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE, No. 2. 

3 teaspoons cayenne. 1 mnstard=spoon powdered cloves. 

3 anchovies, chopped fine. 3 onions, chojaped fine. 

3 teaspoons walnut catsup. 1 qt. good cider or wine vinegar. 

Put all together in a stone jar and set in a kettle of water to 
become scalding hot; then let it stand in the jar, closely covered, 2 
days; bottle after straining, and cork tightly. 

WALNUT SAUCE. — A half peck of walnuts young enough to 
crush easily — they can be rolled on a board or crushed in a mortar. 
Add 2 quarts of vinegar and a gill of salt. Stir and mash together 
for a week; then boil in a porcelain kettle, adding a heaping tea- 
si^oon of ground black pepper, the same of cloves, 1 grated nutmeg, 
1 teaspoon of cayenne pepper, and 1 teaspoon of ground ginger. 
Boil all to a paste; if too thick to run from a bottle, add more vine- 
gar to thin it. Keep corked tightly in a dark closet. Some cooks 
do not mash while cooking, but strain ofP the juice to bottle. Good 
with meats. 

CURRY POWDER. (Kitchener's.) 

3 oz. coriander seed. 1 oz. mustard, ground. 

1 oz. cayenne. ^ oz. fenugreek seed. 

1 oz. allspice. 2 oz. cassia buds. 

3 oz. turmeric. 1 oz. ground ginger. 

Pulverize all together; bottle tight, and keep in a dark closet. 
Good for meats. 

CURRY POWDER. {Whit&s.) 
I lb. turmeric. 2 oz. ground ginger. 

4 oz. black pepper. ^ oz. cardamon seed. 
^ oz. caraw^ay seed. 8 oz. coriander seed. 
4 oz. cumin seed. 2 oz. cayenne. 

Pulverize and bottle as above. 

HERB POWDER FOR FLAVORING.— Dry in a moderate oven 

very carefully 2 oz. each of thyme, winter savory, parsley, sweet 

marjoram and lemon peel; then pound the lemon peel in a mortar 

separately with ^ oz. celery seed; then pound the 

herbs, mix all, x)ass through a fine sieve, and keep 

closely corked in a bottle. To use, add to each 2 

pints of souj) 1 teaspoon of the powder. 

The Marjoeam is a plant of which there are. several 
varieties. The sweet or knotted marjoram is the one usual- 
ly preferred in cookery. It is a native of Greece. It is 
rather tender, and requires a light, dry soil, but if taken in 
doors and kept in a warm, sheltered place, free from wet, it 
may be kept through the winter. The leaves have an 
agreeable aromatic flavor, and are used in soups, stuffings, 
etc. Medicinally it is a stimulant, tonic, and useful for mabjoeam. 

nervousness. 




SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 109 

RAGOUT POWDER — Take 1 oz. of lemon peel, dried and 
grated, 1 oz. each of black pepper and mustard, ^ oz. each of nutmeg, 
ginger, mace and cloves, all ground fine; 1 saltsi^oon cayenne pepper, 
and 4 tablespooiis of salt. Thoroughly mix the ingredients together, 
pass through a fine sieve, and keep in closely corked bottle. Ragout 
or sauce is much improved by adding a teaspoon of the powder. 

SASSAFRAS POWDER. — Select sassafras leaves which are very 
young and tender, and dry them in a cool, airy place, spread out on 
white paj^er; then pound in a mortar till fine, pass through a hair 
sieve; bottle and cork tightly. They are used in gumbo and other 
soups, and in sauces. 

FLAVORED VINEGARS — These are a great addition to many 
dishes, like fish, sauces, salads, meats, etc. Keep them well corked, 
in a dry, cool place. 

Cayenne Vinegar. — Put into a glass bottle 2 cups vinegar and 1 
tablespoon of cayenne pepper, let stand 4 weeks, strain and bottle for 
use. It is useful for gargling sore throats, as well as for seasoning 
soups and sauces; but very little is needed at a time. 

Celery Vinegar. — Put into a jar 2 j)ints celery, chojjped fine; bring 
to a boil and ppur on hot, 2 pints good cider vinegar, and 1 table- 
spoon each of sugar and salt; let it cool, cover and let it stand a fort- 
night; strain and bottle. 

Chili Vinegar. — Cut finely 1 quart of chili peppers, or any kind of 
ri^De red peppers. Add a quart of vinegar and a tablespoon of salt; 
let it stand for a week, stirring daily; then strain and bottle for use. 

Cucumber Vinegar. — Pare, slice, and pat into a stone jar, 10 large 
or 12 small cucumbers; add 2 onions sliced, 1 tablespoon of salt, 2 ta- 
blespoons of pepper, | teaspoon cayenne and 1 quart vinegar; let it 
stand 1 week, boil it up once, and when cold, strain through muslin, 
bottle and seal. Excellent for gravies, hashes, salads and cold 
meats. 

Elder=flower Vinegar — Into 1 quart of good strong vinegar put 1 
pint elder flowers free from the stalks; let stand 2 weeks in the sun 
or in a warm place; strain through flannel, and put up in quite small 
bottles. It can also be made by infusing the leaves, either fresh or' 
dried, in the same way, the fresh being the best. The vinegar is 
used both in cookery and in perfumery. 

Garlic Vinegar.— Into 1 quart of cold boiled vinegar put 2 oz. of 
finely chopped garlic; let stand 2 weeks, strain, and bottle for use. 

Shallot vinegar can be made the same way. 

Cress vinegar can be made by bruising in a mortar |- oz. cress 
seed, and letting it stand 2 weeks in 1 quart of cold, boiled vinegar. 



no SAUCES FOK FISH, SHELL FISH AND MEATS 



Horseradish Vinegar. — Put into a l)()ttlo 1 quart vinegar, ^ lb. 
scraped liorsei-adisli, a pinch of cayenne and 1 teaspoon sugai-; let 
stand two weeks, shaking- daily; then strain and bottle. An excellent 
relish for cold beef, etc. 

Lemon Vinegar. Put the vinegar in a glass bottle and add lemon 
peel; the rind of 1 lemon will flavor a pint of vinegar; let it stand 2 
weeks, then strain and bottle. 

Orange Vinegar can be made the same way. 

Mint Vinegar. — Pick nice fresh mint from the stalks, fill a bottle 
or jar loosely with them, and then fill it full with vinegar; cover 
closely to exclude the air, and let stand 3 weeks; then strain, put 
into small bottles, and cork tightly. Excellent for roast meats, cold 
meats, soups, etc. 

Parsley vinegar can be prepared the same way, the i^rinciple be- 
ing merely to let the herb soak in the vinegar until its flavor is ex- 
tracted. 

Onion Vinegar. — Mince 6 large onions and add a tablespoon of 
salt, letting them stand for 5 or 6 hours. Take 1 quart of vinegar, 
and 1 tablespoon of sugar and pour over the onions; put in a jar, tie 
down the cover and let steep for a fortnight; then strain and bottle. 
This gives an onion flavor to meat sauces and gravies, when liked, 
without the trouble of cooking onions for each dinner. 

Tarragon Vinegar. — Take a handful of tarragon leaves just before 
the i3laiit begins to bloom, and cover them with the best cider or 
wine vinegar (a quart is as much as would be needed for a year in a 
small family); let the leaves steep in the vinegar for a week, turning 
them every day; then strain, and bottle tightly. This is good in 
sauces for boiled fish or poultry. 

The Tabbagon is a hardy plant which grows in light, dry- 
ish soil. It IS a native of Siberia, and belongs to the order 
Coinjwsitae. It has smooth leaves, of a bright green color, 
which are agreeable to the taste, and are used principally for 

making the tarragon vinegar. 

Other Flavored Vinegars. — Black Pepper Vinegar, 
Caper Vinegar, Caj>siciini Vinegar, Gin</er Vine- 
gar, Bed Base Vinegar, Carrij Vinegar, Tnijflc 
Vinegar, White Pepper Vinegar, and several oth- 
ers can be made by steeping about 1 oz. of the arti- 
cle in 1 pint of good vinegar for 2 weeks, to ex- 
tract its flavor; then strain and bottle. Celery Seed 
vinegar is made the same way, but first crush the seeds. Using a 
little more of any article increases the strength. 




TABBAGON. 




MEATS. 

THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING. 

"To be a good cook means the economy of our great'grandmothers, and the 
science of the modern chemist." — liuskin. 

EFORE taking up the subject of cooking- meats, etc., it may- 
be of both interest and profit to our readers to explain some 
of the fundamental principles which underlie the processes 
of cookery. It is a lamentable fact that of the great multi- 
tude of j)eople who daily prepare food for human consumption, very 
many have no idea of the princii)les involved. And yet these prin- 
ciples are quite sim^jle, and can be easily comprehended, and if they 
were well understood, innnense amounts of food might l)e saved 
which are now s^joiled in the cooking and thus rendered both unpal- 
atable and indigestible. 

BROILING OR GRILLING.— To broil successfully put meat on a 
broiler or gridiron, put it over the fire, and heat it stiddcnlij to crust 
the outside and keep in the juices. Fibres of meat are surrounded 
by water holding in solution all)umen and certain soluble salts which 
are of the highest value as food. Albumen is solul)le in cold water, 
it begins to coagulate at 145°, sets into a jelly at 1G0° and becomes a 
tough opaque mass at 212^. When suddenly heated this albumen 
near the surface coagulates and forms a thin film or crust which 
will hold in the other nutritive juices. The crust should, if pos- 
sible, be formed all over the surface of the meat, and not on one 
side alone. Do not stick a fork or anything else into meat to see 
if it is done, as that will form holes and let out the juice. 

If the article is dipped in melted fat before putting it on the 
gridiron, it will hely) set the surface albumen quickly. If it is very 
lean, or there is but little fat, it is well to draw it through 'a little 
melted butter or oil on a i^late. For Jish, it would be well to always 
do this, and the fish (not meat) may be sprinkled with salt and pep-, 
per before being dipped in the oil. Fish is also floured to prevent 
its sticking to the gridiron. 

When the meat is browned all over, and ceases to feel spongy, it 
is done. A little experience will show just the right time to stop the 
broiling; then allow it to rest for 1 minute on a very hot plate, and 
serve. Do not put any salt on the meat while it is cooking; the 



112 MEATS 

seasoning should be put on the meat after it is put on the hot plat- 
ter. Remember, therefore, that the rules for broiling are always the 
same, viz. : a hot fire at ^'rs/ with a hot gridiron well greased; fre- 
quent turning; no holes made to see if the meat is done and so let 
out the juices. Also remember, that the smaller the article, the hot- 
ter the tire necessary, and that for larger ones a more moderate fire is 
needed, or hold it further away from the fire. 

BAKING AND ROASTING — The first object is to harden the 
surfac-e albumen, and so imprison the juices of the meat the same as 
in broiling. To do this, the fire and utensils must be very hot at 
first, and the heat can afterwards be lessened by cooling the oven. 
The smaller the joint, the higher the temperature to which it should 
be exposed, while the larger the joint, the smaller the fire, lest it 
should be burnt outside before it is cooked enough inside; but it 
should be hot at first and cooler afterwards. If the oven is only 
warm at first, the surface albumen will not be coagulated, the juices 
will escax^e, and the damage cannot afterwards be repaired. In a 
perfectly roasted joint the outside albumen should be thoroughly 
hardened, but inside, the heat should only reach the stage which 
swells and softens the fibrin. If cooked more than this, the fibre 
becomes tough and separates into bundles which resist the teeth and 
digestive organs. 

Basting. — It is very important that the meat should be frequently 
basted — say every 10 to 20 minutes — and do it quickly, so as not to 
keep the oven door open longer than necessary. The drippings from 
the meat are the best thing with which to baste it; some cooks add 
some beef drippings. Owing to the heat of the oven, the outside 
surface soon becomes dry, and basting the meat covers it over with a 
thin film of fat which assists in imparting heat, while it checks the 
evaporation of the juices. Water is sometimes jDut in the dripping- 
pan to baste with, but it should be remembered that the water Can- 
not be heated above 212°, while 280° or more is needed for proper 
baking; so that water should not be put in the pan at first. Use 
beef drippings or fat from the meat itself at first, and add a little 
water later, if it is used. If a frothed surface is desired, flour may 
be dredged uj)on it every time it is basted. When you baste it, look 
at the joint and see if one side is more brown than the other; if so, 
turn it around; also, it is well very often to turn it over. All game 
and poultry requires a hot, clear fire, frequent basting, and should be 
sent to the table direct from roasting. It should not be finished 
long before it is wanted, and then " kept hot." 

A basin of water in the oven will produce steam which will 



THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 113 

check the tendency to scorch and dry the meat. Hot, dry air is 
thirsty for water and will absorb it eagerly from any moist substance 
with which it comes in contact, but if the air is kept moist by keep- 
ing a pan of water in the oven, the tendency is overcome; water in 
the dripping pan does the same thing. This, however, should not be 
relied on as a substitute for having the oven hot at first and cooler 
afterwards. Do not put in the water until after the strong heat at 
first has set the surface albumen of the meat. It is better not to use 
water with meat which is desired rare, or with small cuts, but only 
for large roasts which require long, slow cooking. 

BOILING. — To properly boil meat is quite an art, and the best 
method is as follows: Meat to be eaten should be plunged at once 
into boiUug water, as that coagulates the albumen on or near the sur- 
face and forms a thin film (perhaps not thicker than cotton cloth), 
and this film holds the juices inside the meat. After this the water 
should merely simmer until the meat is heated through to the center 
sufficiently to cook it, but not enough to harden the albumen inside. 
About 160° to 180° is right for the simmering water. Cooked in 
this way the meat should cook longer, however, than by the old 
method of rapid boiling, but it will be much more digestible and 
better. 

If there are any exceptions to the above principles for boiling 
meat, they are in the case of sinewy and tendonous meat when gela- 
tine is abundant, for to make gelatine soft and eatable, long contin- 
ued boiling is necessary. Thus calf's head and feet, shins of beef, 
knuckles of veal, cow heel, tripe, etc., are usually best put into cold 
water first, and boiled longer than other meat. 

A good practical method for boiling meat is to put it first into 
boiling water, being sure to have enough water to cover the meat. 
Of course, putting a large j)iece of cold meat into the water will at 
first stop it from boiling, so keei) it on the fire a short time (say 10 
minutes) with the lid on; then take off the lid and skim it. As soon 
as the water begins to boil thoroughly again, the surface albumen 
will be coagulated; then lift the kettle off the fire on to the side of 
the range, so as to stop the boiling at once. Leave it there a short, 
time — say 15 to 20 minutes — so that the meat may get hot clear 
through. This will jirevent the meat at the finish fTom being over- 
cooked outside, and blue and uncooked in the middle. Then place it 
on the fire again and let it simmer. The time for simmering should 
be from 10 to 12 minutes for every pound of meat. All the best ex- 
perience, however, agrees in this, that a long, slow boiling produces 



114 MEATS 

the best results, so that no exact rule can be given as to the time. 
An even teaspoon of salt can be put into the water in which the meat 
simmers; it is enough to season the meat on the outside, and more 
can be added when it is eaten, and, besides, most of the meat sauces 
contain a quantity of salt which serves as flavoring. 

After meat is i)ut into boiling water, a scum will rise to tlie sur- 
face; this should be skimmed off and thrown away. It is one of the 
very few things in the processes of cooking which sh(nild be thrown 
away, as it is wasted food. The scum is the nllmmen which is drawn 
out of the meat, coagulated by the heat, and rises to the surface. 
Although the greater part will rise at first, do not fail to skim during 
the whole process; if any is left, it will attach itself to the meat, and 
sx^oil its ai^ijearance. 

S((U meat should be put in cold water after being washed thor- 
oughly in fresh water or milk; the water should then be slowly 
brought up to the simmering point. This will draw out the salt. 
Remember that all salted and dried meats sIkjuRI simmer slowly, as 
rapid boiling hardens them. All trimmings of meat should be used 
in the soup^kettle, or simmered in a little water and made into gravy. 

In boiling an erjg, what we want is to set the white, without 
making the albumen tough and hard ; the best way, therefore, is to 
always keep the water below the boiling point — nearer that of sim- 
mering water. Some people put the egg in cold water and take it off 
as soon as it boils. Others prefer to put it first into a sauce pan of 
boiling water, and then take off the pan and let it cook as the water 
cools. It is a mistake to boil even a hard boiled egg an instant 
longer than is enough to set the albumen in the white and yolk. 

Recollect that vegetables require boiling, and meat only t^inimcr- 
ing; therefore, you can not, as a rule, b(jil vegetables with meat with- 
out spoiling one of them. Vegetables should be put into boiling 
water at first, and kept there. 

Flour foods, such as macaroni, sago, rice, cornflour and flour 
puddings, should be kept all the time in boiling water, in order to 
burst the starch granules. The mechanical action of fast l)ubbling 
water is often useful here, partly in preventing the grains of rice, 
etc., from settling to the bottom of the pan. 

STEWING. — This is a process often confounded by ill-informed 
people with boiling a long time, and even moderately good cooks 
often confound it with "simmering." A stew, jjroperly so called, 
is when both meat and juice— that is, all the liquor— are eaten to- 
gether. Stewing invariably requires a heat much below that of 



THE PEOCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 115 

boiling water; 135^ to 100° is about stewing point. AYhatever is 
stewed, parts with much of its goodness to the surrounding liquor, 
which should not, therefore, be wasted. And yet it is not desirable 
in stewing to extract all the juices from the meat, as is done in mak- 
ing soup or beef tea; part should be barely coagulated, and thus re- 
tained in the meat in as tender a condition as j)ossible. To accom- 
plish this, a hit ill mar ie or double boiler is an excellent thing to use. 
If you have not this, it will be a good idea to extemporize one, by 
setting one dish inside another, something like a carpenter's glue- 
Y)ot. A pudding-basin, with a wide projecting rim, may be set into 
another i^an just large enough for it to drop into and rest upon its 
rim. Put the meat into this basin, pour hot water over it, and pour 
hot water into the cmter basin, forming a '"water bath;"' then let this 
outer water boil, but very gently, so as not to make the inside basin 
jum^j with its steam. Stew it thus for about double the time usually 
Ijrescribed, and compare the result with similar materials stewed in 
the old way. The superiority will be evident. In any event, even 
if stewed on the old plan, the water should not boil nor get near the 
boiling point: keep the water at 150° to 160° by setting the dish at 
the side of the stove and letting it quietly stew. Less water is used 
than in boiling. A connnon mistake is to put in too much water. 
The meat needs to be barely covered, and cooks forget that at the 
moderate heat of stewing there is very little loss by evaporation. It 
is the cheapest method of cooking that there is. Little heat is re- 
quired, and therefore little fuel used; nothing is wasted, and what- 
ever goes into the pot comes out. No attention is needed while 
cooking, and the cheapest and coarsest meat can be used. 

This method is peculiarly adapted for all gelatinous meat, such 
knuckles, heads and feet, and for all tough, fil)rous meats, because 
long-continued, moderate heat, with moisture, is the best way of 
bringing gelatine and tough fiber into an eatable condition, and it 
will not only make it eatable but palatable. A tough fowl can in this 
manner be made presentable, better than by any t)tlier. In .order to 
prevent the extraction of all the juices from the meat in stewing, 
the best way is to fry it first; this gives it a good color and mode- 
rates the escape of the juices, which is often very desirable. The 
thoughtless method of i^utting it in an excess of wat_er and then let- 
ting it boil away, produces miserable results. 

In stewing, meat and vegetables are often cooked together, but 
as the principles involved in cooking them are different, and they re- 
quire different treatment, the best plan is to boil the vegetables first, 



116 MEATS 

and then use them and their liquor for the stew. Some people have 
a prejudice against a " stew." If so, you can dignify it by giving it 
a French name, and call it a ragoitt—hnt be sure you pronounce it 
ra goo', not ra=gowt. 

FRICASSEEINQ.^This means, literally, " to fry." It is usually 
applied to a chicken, rabbit or any small animal which is cut up and 
fried, either before or after stewing, and served in a well flavored sauce. 

FRYING. — There are 2 ways of frying known to cooks as (1) 
wet frying, sometimes called French frying or frying in a kettle of 
hot fat; and (2) dry frying or cooking in a frying pan. The best re- 
sults are undoubtedly obtained by the first method, although it is 
little used in this country. We will describe the 2 methods: 

To fry anything by the first, or French method, is to cook it by 
immersing it in very hot fat. In fact, just as in boiling we must let 
the water cover what is boiled, so in this method we must let the fat 
cover what is fried. The same fat will do over and over again, so 
that this method. is not as expensive as many people imagine. Food 
fried in this way comes out quite dry, and without any of the greasy 
moisture of frying-pan cookery. An iron sauce=pan or small kettle 
must be used, as the heat of the fat melts the solder of a tin pan. 
The rules for good frying are: (1) The fat must be sufficiently 
deep to fully cover the article. (2) The fat must be sufficiently 
hot, in fact, it should smoJx-c. (3) When anything is floured before 
it is fried, it must not be floured until the last moment before it is 
plunged into the fat. (4) When anything is fried that has been 
egged and bread=crumbed, it is best to egg and bread=crumb it some 
little time before it is fried. (5) Shut the kitchen door and open 
the window a little to avoid scenting up the house; this is a practical 
point which should be remembered. 

Now a few hints: The exterior of the substance to be fried 
should be as dry as possible; by this means we get a good color, and 
less bubbling is caused. Fish can be rubbed in flour; vegetables 
with a cloth; meat should not be waslieJ. Before dropping anything 
that contains much water into hot fat, lift the kettle ofP of the stove, 
as the fat is liable to bubble over and catch fire. Most things that 
are fried are covered with egg and bread crumbs, flour and milk, or 
batter, in order that a crust may be formed round them to keep the 
juice in and the fat out; the essential thing is to cover them com- 
pletely and leave no crack. It is best to warm the articles a little 
before putting them in to fry, as, if they are to cold, or if too many 
are put in together, they will chill the fat, so that it will soak into 



THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 117 

tliem. On taking any fried article out of the fat, lay it to drain on a 
sieve, bottom uj), or on a very hot cloth, or best of all, on a sheet of 
blotting paper. The hot fat being extremely fluid, will drain otf and 
leave the article free from grease. Never pile up on top of each oth- 
er articles which are fried. Bread crumbs should be very fine; if 
coarse, grease will adhere to or be absorbed by them. They should 
take a fine, yellow color, being slightly charred or toasted by the 
high temperature to which they are exposed. Things well fried are 
not greasy, l)ut c|uite dry. 

Frying food thus is not adapted to materials which recpiire slow 
cooking at a low temperature, because it heats the surface much be- 
yond the temperature of boiling, and, if prolonged, meat is heated 
clear through and toughened. Croquettes and similar preparations 
of cold meat are much nicer cooked in this way, and many kinds of 
fish are greatly improved by this process, while choirs and cutlets 
which are first egged and breadcrumbed, are delicious thus cooked. 

If many articles are to be fried, reheat the fat occasionally to 
keep it hot enough. Losing fat which is not hot enough is a com- 
mon mistake; keep the fat SDiokiiu/ hot. There is much more danger 
of not having it hot enough than too hot. 

It is advisable, when possible, to use a wire frying-basket. 
This does away with much handling, and lifts all the things out at 
the same time. A basket should not be used for fritters, which stick 
to the basket, and the articles in the bas- 
ket should not touch each other. As a 
basket expands with heat, it should not fit 
the j)ftn very tightly; it should not touch 
the bottom of the joan. If you have no 
basket use an iron spoon, as tin or Brit- basket foe fkying. 

annia metal will melt if the fat is very hot. 

Grease the basket by dipping it into the hot fat before putting the 
articles into it, and lay them in so as to keep them from touching 
each other. 

Fats and oils may be heated much hotter than water, but some 
burn much more easily than others. About 350"' to 400° is a suit- 
able temijerature for use; it can be higher; for some things which re- 
quire slow cooking, it should be lower. It is better to have the tem- 
perature high at first, lowering it afterwards. Remember that put- 
ting anything cold into fat to cook, lov\-ers its temperature somewhat. 

The temperature of fat can be obtained with a thermometer, but 
without that, the following tests offer some guide: (1) Droj) in a 




118 MEATS 

few drops of water; if the fat bubbles thereupon, it is over 212"; if it 
bubbles very smartly, it is over 300°. (2) Drop in a piece of bread 
and take it out in ^ minute; if the bread is then crisp, the fat is 
about 350° or more. (3) The more violent the bubbling when any- 
thing is put in, the hotter the fat. (4) A thin, filmy, blue smoke 
arises when the fat is fit for frying; after that, if the fat is further 
heated, it becomes thicker, until the fat is burning, when there is a 
dense cloud. (5) Fat, unless it has left off bubbling and is quite 
still, is never hot enough for frying. These rules are true of all fats, 
and more or less of all frying. 

The reason that fat crackles when it is first put on is, that there 
is generally w^ater in it. This water, being heavier than fat, sinks to 
the bottom and is converted into steam, and these bubbles of steam 
escaping up through the fat makes the bubbling. If not moist with 
water, it would not crackle. When the crackling ceases, it shows 
simply that the fat is hotter than boiling water, and that the water is 
evaporated. 

When you have finished using the fat, pour it into a basin con- 
taining some hot water. Have more water than fat, and pour the fat 
in gradually, if it is very hot, or else it will suddenly create a volume 
of steam; then agitate the fat a little, and let it stand until it is cold. 
When you next use the fat, take it out in one large cake, and scrape 
the part next to the water, which will contain impurities. The fat 
should also be occasionally strained while warm. 

With regard to the best fat to use, it may l)e said that, while 
olive oil is generally considered the best, it is too expensive for gen- 
eral use, and the taste is not liked by some people. Pure cotton seed 
oil answers well, and it has but little odor. Mutton fat or drippings 
is not suital)le, as it is apt to leave a tallowy taste and smell, and it 
cools quickly. For every day use, lard is best, or, lard mixed with 
clarified beef suet, or the drippings from roast beef, pork or veal. 
We think, however, that some of the vegetable oils will soon largely 
sui3plant the animal fats for frying, and most other cooking pur- 
poses. There are many advantages and few objections to their use. 
The fat can be used over and over again. 

It is generally believed that for this method of frying, several 
different supplies of fat are needed, one for meat, one for fish, and so 
on, but if the fat is properly handled and clarified, it will be found 
that this idea is exaggerated. 

Fat for frying can be clarified by cutting it up into small j^iec- 
es, and putting it into the sauce=pan with just enough water to pre- 
vent its burning, and then heat it over a slow fire until the bottom 



THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 119 

can be seen, then it should be strained; or heat it in 'a frying pan to 
285° to 300° F., and then very cautiously sprinkle upon it small 
quantities of water. The steam carries off the volatile fatty acids 
which produce the rancidity in such as fish oils, and also removes the 
neutral, ott'ensive fatty matters that are decomposable by heat. 

CoTTOLENE. — Tliis is a mixture of cottonseed oil and beef suet, and nothing 
e,se. It is an excellent substitute for butter or lard for shortening, or for other 
fats for frying. It can be used for shortening in any recipe calling for butter or 
lard, but use only about tw<:=thirds as much of it. When used for frying it should 
be heated very hot before the articles to be fried are put into it, as we elsewhere 
explain about all fats used for frying (see "Frying"), but cottolene will not 
"smoke" as other fat does, so test it first by dropping in a piece of bread, and if 
that browns in ^2 minute, it is hot enough for use. No further general directions 
are necessary for using it. 

We have elsewhere stated Mint we believe the day is near at hand when tlie 
vegetable oils will largely supplant the aniniMl fats for all cooking pur]>oses, and 
we believe the change to be desirable. This is a move in that directicjn. Cotton- 
seed oil is healthful, nutritions, and its use is unobjectionable. 

CoTosuET. — This is a prejiaration similar to cottolene, but made by another 
manufacturer. It is 80 per cent, cottonseed oil and 20 per cent, beef suet. All 
that we have said above about cottolene will apply to cotosuet, or, in fact, to any 
similar preparation of the same ingredients such as Vegetoi^e. 

If fDi (ivcidrut occurs. irJtrv fi-jjhig, do not throw water on the 
flames, as tliat turns to steam; smother them instead with a tliick 
cloth or strip of carpet. 

The Philosophy of Frying.— This consists largely in the fact that 
different fluids will receive different amounts of heat — water boiling 
at 212°, beyond which it cannot be heated in an open kettle, while 
fat or oil will go to 5(30° to G00°. Water dissolves and extracts the 
juices of meats submitted to its action, but in fats the juices are pre- 
served, for they are insoluble in oil, and substances submitted to its 
action when it is very hot, harden, assume a more or less deep color, 
and finally become carbonized. If the fat is at the right tempera- 
ture, it will instantly hardtm the surface albumen, but if the tem- 
perature is too low, the fat will soak into the article, instead of draw- 
ing out the juices as water does. 

To Fry by the Second Plan we Mentioned above, or Dry Frying (the 
French call it Sauteing) the following directions may be givi^n. To 
fry meat properly in this way, requires care and expedition, or the 
operation will be a failure, and, as in the case of broiling, it must be 
done the last thing while preparing the meal; everything should be 
in place on the table, excepting the vegetables in their hot dishes, 
and if mutton or laml) is to be fried, the f)lates, even in warm weath- 
er, must be hot, as the fat chills rapidly after being taken from the 
fire. Have the cutlets, steaks or chops all ready for the j)an before- 
hand, so as to lose no time at the last; the slices should be of the 
right size to serve. If beef is to be fried, a little of its own fat, cut 



120 MEATS 

in bits, should be melted and sizzling hot in the pan — on this, much 
depends. Put the pieces of meat in the hot fat, add no salt, as that 
draws the juices, and fry as fast as possible, turning and tossing the 
meat to keep it from burning; do not leave it a moment. Have a 
hot platter in readiness and take up the meat when well browned on 
both sides (which will be in less than 5 minutes) dust on it a little 
pepper, if liked, and spread it with butter, with a very little salt 
sprinkled over it very evenly, and send it to the table as hot as possi- 
ble. Meat done in this w^ay will be tender and juicy, like well 
broiled steak. A long, slow simmering of fresh meat, salted in the 
pan, will make it hard and indigestible. 

Fresh ijork, beef, mutton and lamb should each be cooked in its 
own fresh fat; veal is so dry and lean that it is usually fried in the 
fat from salt pork, and afterwards seasoned as above. Other meats, 
if they are lean, can be fried in the fat of a single slice of salt pork, 
rather than in butter, which burns if brought to the right heat to 
cook meat without losing the juices. Only enough fat is required to 
keep the meat from sticking to the pan; if there is more, it can be 
poured over the meat, or thickened, and with a little water added, 
used for gravy. 

BRAISING. -This is a way of cooking by the action of heat 
o6ore as well as heJoiv the article cooked — the effect is somewhat 
similar to stewing. A braising^pan has a deep cover, on which live 
coals are placed. The pan is air4ight, and as all evaporation is thus 
precluded, the food imbibes whatever flavor the cook may wish to 
give it, in order to effect which, she must place in the pan with the 
meat, whatever vegetables, etc., her recipe may direct. The ingredi- 
ents should be very well proportioned, and the stewing should go on 
very slowly. It is not a common method of cooking in America, 
although more practiced in Europe. 

TO STEAM Cooking by steam in private families is not as 

generally practiced as it might be. The steamer fits tightly on a pan 
or kettle, and as the water boils, the steam fills the steamer and cooks 
the articles in it. A tough fowl, filled w^ith a stuffing of bread 
crumbs, etc., and steamed for 2 hours or so, will be made quite ten- 
der. Fish and oysters cooked in this way are delicious. Stale bread 
and biscuit steamed 5 or 6 minutes, is made fresh and good. Plum 
cake steamed 3 hours and then baked 1 hour, is better than when 
baked in the ordinary way. Potatoes are often steamed. In steam- 
ing puddings, etc., do not use w^ater in which anything else has been 
cooked, as it will give them an unpleasant flavor. Articles being 



THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 121 



steamed cannot burn, but do not let the fire get so low that the water 
stops boiling for an instant, or the supply of steam will be lessened, 
to the detriment of the article being cooked. 

SAUTEINQ. — This is the French name for frying anything 
quickly in a small pan, with a very little dripping, oil or fat, doing 
one side at a time. It is the same as the dry frying which we have 
previously described. The art consists in having the pan and fat 
very hot at the start, and in doing it very quickly, to save the juices 
and succulence in the meat. 

TO LARD. — This consists in sticking bacon or other specified 
articles into poultry, meat, etc. 
It is done with a larding needle. 
It is sometimes thought a difficult 
operation, but is really exceeding- 
ly easy. It improves dry, lean 
meats, and though it needs to be 
done neatly, to look well, a little 




#lll|lti 






Fig. 1. LARDOONS. 



Fig. 



METHOD or LAEDING MEAT. 



practice teaches this readily. The method is to cut fat bacon into 
narrow strips of equal length and thickness; for poultry and game, 
these should be about 2 inches long, ^ inch thick, ^ inch wide; for 
fillets of beef, loins of veal, or 
other solid joints, the same 
length, and ^ inch thick and 




LAEDED NECK OF MUTTON 



Fig. 4. LAEDED TUEKEY. 



wide. Notice that for all white meats, the bacon used must be cured 
without saltpetre, as that tinges meats red in cooking. Put each of 
these strips of bacon (which is called a "lardoon") into a "larding 
needle," and pass the point of this through enough of the fowl or 
joint to hold the lardoon safely; then draw the needle through, leav- 
ing the bacon in the meat, with both ends projecting equally. Do 
this in regular rows, and at equal distances, until the meat is covered 



122 MEATS 

with a regular pattern. Generally the breasts only of poultry and 
feathered game are larded, and the backs, or backs and thighs of rab- 
bits and hares. With soft meat, like poultry it is well to first 
dip the part to be larded in boiling water for a moment, as that im- 
parts greater firmness to it, and makes it hold the lardoons better. 

DAUBING. — This is somewhat like larding, but the strips of 
pork are pushed entirely through the meat from side to side, instead 
of being merely inserted near the surface. By this means the fat 
and flavor of the pork penetrates the inside of the meat, giving it a 
flavor which some people relish. Cut the fat pork into strips as for 
larding, but a little thicker, and long enough to a little more than go 
through the meat, projecting a little to each side. A hole is first 
punched clear through the meat with a steel instrument, and then 
the striiD of fat pork is thrust through with the larding needle or fin- 
gers. Daubing is usually applied to a thick piece of beef or veal. 
The flavor of the pork may also be obtained, however, by laying it on 
the top of the meat, leaving it on while cooking, and removing it 
when done. 

BONINQ. — This is usually done by the butcher, and means liter- 
ally making the joint or fowl, or whatever it is, boneless. 

BARDINQ. — This is practiced on poultry and game and consists 
in fastening a thin, large slice of fat salt pork on the breast; it an- 
swers the purpose of basting. 

GLAZING. — This consists in covering certain meats with a thin, 
golden brown paste (a glaze) made l:)y Ijoiling down rich soup stock. 
It is used to give meats which have not been colored by cooking, a 
glossy surface, and a brown, roasted appearance. 

TO EGG AND BREAD=CRUMB.— The best way to make breads 
crumbs is to rub stale bread through a wire sieve, because the bread- 
crumbs should be very fine A wire sieve is a necessity in every 
home where economy is considered or good cooking desired. If 
the bread crumbs are to be used for meat or fish, a little pepper and 
salt can be added; if for sweet dishes, add a little sugar. The eggs 
should be bealen up lightly; a teaspoon of water to each egg helps 
in beating it thin. The rule is, to dip the article that is to be egged 
and bread crund)ed first in the crumbs to dry it; now let it dry a 
little, then dip it in the beaten up egg, drain it, and then roll it 
again in the bread crumbs and leave it in the crumbs until it is put 
in the smoking hot fat. It is best to egg and breadcrumb anything 
some time before it is fried. The dryer the crumbs the better if a 
good color is desired. 



THE PROCESSES AND PRINCIPLES OF COOKING 123 

The philosophy of this process is that the egu;, being albumen, 
when put into the hot fat, hardens into a thin, tough film, which 
keeps the fat from penetrating, and with meat and tisli holds the 
juices within them. It is evident that for this purpose every part 
of the surface should be i3erfectly covered with the egg, and that 
there should be no cracks for the juice to escape through. 

If the egg and bread crumbs fall off, it is because the crumbs 
are too coarse; or there is not enough fat in the kettle; or it is not 
hot enough, the latter being often the cause. 

DRIPPING — Excepting the fat from mutton, lamb, and that 
from boiled ham that has been smoked, " dripping " is any fat tried 
from cooked meat. The fat of salted jjork is ready for use as 
soon as tried, and may be poured from the frying=pan into the 
bowl kept for that purpose, but the fat from roasted or boiled 
meat contains more or less water and must be heated in the 
frying=pan until all the water has evaporated, and then strained 
into an earthen vessel. If more dripping is saved in this 
way than is needed for shortening or for recooking potatoes, 
it can be strained into the kettle for frying doughnuts. An econ- 
omical cook never allows good fat to spoil. The fat from baked 
sausages is excellent for re- warming potatoes, but will not do for 
the doughnut kettle. The fat from poultry may be used very soon 
after trying out, but it becomes rancid much sooner than the fat of 
beef and pork. The fat of mutton and lamb, with that from the 
boiled smoked ham, is only fit for the soapman. 

When the drippings to be clarified for use are smoking hot in 
the frying=i3an, all unpleasant odors (like that of fat from corned 
beef) can be removed by slicing 1 or 2 raw potatoes into the pan 
and leaving them until fried crisp; the potatoes absorb all unpleas- 
ant flavors. 

Thermometers. — We wonder that no one has ever invented a good 
thermometer to be used when cooking, and in the kitchen. We 
know of none now. Mrs. M. H. Abel says she fastened a^thermo- 
meter to a cork, having the bulb project below, and protecting it 
with a i)iece of wood; thus arranged, the cork would float on the 
water, and the temperature of any article boiling or stewing could 
be determined. She also used it to test the oven by-hanging it on a 
wire frame. The present method of guessing at the temperature 
when cooking is very unsatisfactory, and must give way before long 
to a more exact and scientific jilan. 

HINTS. — In cookijig meat, it will be an assistance to remem- 
ber that freshly killed meat requires more time to cook than that 



124 MEATS 

wlileb has been kept; also that meat needs cooking rather longer in 
cold weather than in hot. 

To Make Tough Meat Tender, — Soak it in vinegar and water; if the 
jDiece is very large, soak it about 12 hours; for 10 lbs. of beef, use 
about 3 quarts of water and f pint of vinegar, and soak it for 6 or 7 
hours. If the vinegar is not very strong, a very tough piece can be 
soaked o or 4 days in summer, and twice as long in winter to advan- 
tage, and spices may be added if liked. Or the meat can be brushed 
over with vinegar and let stand with that on |- to one day. The 
tough fibre is cut and softened by the acid. Sour milk is used for 
the same purpose, by foreign cooks, the lactic acid of the milk acting 
the same as the acetic acid of the vinegar. The meat should be im- 
mersed in the sour milk, which should be changed every day, and 
thoroughly washed off before cooking the meat. Meat is also "hung" 
to make it tender. Stewing also makes many tough meats tender; 
see the i^receeding article on " Stewing." 

Washing Meat. — Meat purchased from a good butcher should not 
need washing before being cooked; all that will be necessary will be 
to dampen a cloth with cold water and wipe it off; or scrape it with 
a dull knife to remove splinters of bone, sand, etc. Washing meat 
will dissolve out the surface albumen and juices, and detract just 
that much from its value. If necessarij to wash it, do not let it stay 
in water, but use cold water, throw it on quickly, and then wipe the 
meat dry. 

The ActlGn of Salt on Meat — This should be understood. Salt 
causes the fibers of meat to contract, and the juice to flow out of its 
pores, often forcing out in this way as much as ^ of the juice of 
the meat, which is the reason of the fact, familiar to every house- 
wife, that dry salt in contact with fresh meat gradually becomes 
fluid brine. Now as the juice thus extracted contains albumen, and 
other valuable principles, it will be seen that meat which has been 
preserved with salt can never have the nutritive value of fresh meat, 
because the juices when once drawn out can never be restored. 

Do not put salt on meat that is being cooked until it is nearly 
done; if added earlier it toughens the filDre. 

Hard and Soft Water. — Many cooks also do not understand the 
action of different waters on meat. For making soup, or broth, soft 
water, unsalted, is best to use, because that more readily penetrates 
the tissues and extracts the juices; but for cooking meat to be eaten, 
where it is desired to retain the juices in the meat, hard water is 
best, or if soft water is used, put a little salt in it. Salt added to the 
water in which meat or fish is cooked acts in 3 ways: (1) It hel^JS 



MEATS 125 

to coagulate the surface albumen. (2) Water containing salt boils 
at a little higher temperature than pure water, . (3) It increases the 
density of the water, and the juices flow out less readily. Although 
each action is rather small, they all combine to keep in the juices. 

The Disagreeable Odor of Boiling. — This may be kept from filling 
the house by putting into the water a pod of red pepper. A lump of 
charcoal wrapped in muslin and droi^ped in the kettle will also 
absorb the odor and prevent its permeating the house. 

Burning Fat.— When, in broiling meat, fat drops down on the 
coals, and you fear it may give the meat a smoky taste, take off the 
gridiron for a minute or two, and put a little salt on the coals. 

To Thaw Frozen Meat. — Put it in cold water, and do not try to 
cook it until it is fully thawed. Do not thaw it until just before it is 
to be cooked. To ascertain whether the thawing is complete, drive 
an iron skewer through the thickest part of the joint; if there is a 
core of ice within, it will be distinctly felt by the resistance it offers. 
If the meat is cooked before it is perfectly thawed, it will often dis- 
play a raw center when done. Meat that has been frozen decom- 
poses easily when thawed, and it is apt to be insipid and dry when 
cooked. 

Cold Meat. — Gold, sliced meats are much relished by many, but 
need not, necessarily, be entirely cold when served, especially in cold 
weather. Arrange the slices neatly on a platter, then set the platter 
in the oven with the door open, and warm just enough to take off the 
chill, but not to start the fat from the meat. Serve it with tomato 
or chili sauce. Cold meat cuts better after it is entirely cold. 

Remember that in re^warming all kinds of meat, it must not be 
re=cooked, as that has a tendency to harden it. By placing thinly 
cut bits of cold meat in a hot dish, or platter, and pouring over it the 
hot sauce or gravy, and then serving in hot plates in cold weather, 
the meat will be sufficiently heated. Cold butcher's meat of all 
kinds can be treated in this way; also fish, shelhfish, poultry and 
game, each covered with its appropriate hot sauce or gravy. Mutton 
particularly calls for hot plates nearly all the year round, as tli ^ fat 
hardens immediately on a cold plate. 

GRAVY — Gravy differs from a meat sauce in that it is made of 
the juices which drip from roasted or baked meats; or from those 
extracted in the process of frying or sauteing; or from the broth 
from boiled meats, in contradistinction from a sauce made from 
something foreign to the meat. 

Gravy for roasted meat is made by adding water to the dripping- 
pan in which the meat is roasted; the juices of the meat which have 



126 MEATS 

dried and browned on the sides of the dripping pan, sliould be thor- 
oughly stirred down into the pan with a spoon, as this gives color 
and flavor to the gravy; the surplus fat must be dipped off, but a 
small i3ortion left in gives the needed fat and richness to the gravy 
without the addition of butter, and will be thoroughly blended 
through it by the addition of the thickening. The thickening is 
made by mixing flour or corn^starch with a little cold water, and 
stirring it into the boiling contents of the dripping pan, which is 
placed on the top of the stove or range, immediately ui)on taking up 
the roast. Most cooks of the iDresent day use corn^stareh, which 
cooks free from lumps; others prefer the flavor of flour thickening, 
even if it necessitates the straining of the gravy; browned flour, or 
browned flour and butter, called brow^n roux, or Mdiite roux, which is 
raw flour and butter already mixed, is used by ijrofessional cooks. 
Gravies should be kept hot in a saucepan, after straining, until sent 
to the table for a cold gravy is an abomination. 

Gravy for meat fried in a frying^^pan is made in the same way, 
by adding a little hot water to the pan after the meat is taken up, 
then thickening it as above; there is usually no surplus fat when 
meat is cooked in a frying=pan, as only enough fat is used to keep 
the meat from sticking to the pan. 

Gravy for boiled meat is made by dipping the required quantity 
of broth from the top of the i^ot, together with a portion of the fat, 
then thicken and season as for other gravies. A spoonful of any one 
of the various meat sauces may be added to gravies for seasoning if 
preferred. 

Do not si)oil gravies with high seasoning of any kind, for the 
best gravy is that in which the flavor of the meat is best retained. 
The English method of making gravy with meatdiquor or soup stock 
is as follows: When roasting beef, mutton, lamb or pork, i^our off 
into a dish, ^ hour before dinner time, all the contents of the drip- 
l^ing pan, and set them away in a cool place; then put into the pnn 
1 or 2 cujDS of the meat liquor or stock; if you have cold gravy or 
dripi^ings of a ]previous day, take off all the fat from the top, and i^ut 
the liquid which is left, into the pan. Wet some browned flour 
smooth, and when you take up the meat, set the dripping-pan on top 
of the stove; the gravy wall at once boil up, and the w^et flour must 
then be stirred in. Do not let it stand too long, as it will l)oil away 
fast. 

With veal and venison, there is but little fat, and that is not 
gross, and so the gravy is made differently. When the meat is first 



BEEF 127 

put to roast, put some meat^iquor or stock in the dripping-pan, and 
add a little more as it boils away. When the meat is done, set the 
dripjjins: pan on the stove, and, having stirred in the wet flour as 
before, add a jjiece of butter ^ the size of an egg, and stir until it is 
all melted or it will make the gravy oily. 

For poultry, the gravy is made by boiling the giblets by them- 
selves in a little water; skim it carefully, as a good deal of scum will 
rise. After 1 or 1^ hours, take them out and pour the water into the 
dripping x^an; mash or chop the liver fine, and when you make the 
gimvy, add this and a bit of butter, some j)epper, the wet flour, and, 
if you choose, a little sweet marjoram. 

The fat that roasts out of a turkey should be di^jped off with a 
spoon before these ingredients are added; it is too gross to be palat- 
able. 

For goose gravy, jjour off all the drii^i^ings as directed for beef 
or pork, and put in some of the meat liquor or stock. 

To Brown Flour. — Some cooks keep browned flour on hand for 
gravies and soups, and think it gives a better flavor and color than 
white flour. Prepare it as follows: Put about a quart of flour into a 
spider and set it into the oven or on top of the stove; stir it often 
lest it should burn. When it is a light brown color, set it away for 
use. in a jar or wide mouthed bottle, keeping it corked. 

Garnishing meat adds much to its aiDpearance. Slices of carrots 
are suitable for hot or cold boiled beef. Mint is used for hot or cold 
roast lamb, either with or without parsley. For roast veal and calf's 
head, slices of lemon are used. For boiled meats or stews, use 
capers, boiled onions or pickled gherkins. For roast beef, horse- 
radish is often used. Slices of red beet^root go well on boiled beef 
or cold meat, and for looultry, fish, cold meats, etc., parsley is verj* 
generally used. 

Slices of lemon sened with a j)late of beefsteak will impart a 
pleasant flavor to it, and those who like onions will relish beefsteak 
served on a platter that has been well rubbed with raw onion. 



BEEF. 

Beef is probably the best and the most wholesome, as it is cer- 
tainly the most economical meat that can be purchased for family 
use. Very lean beef is of inferior C|uality. while that which is very 
fat is objectionable because it is so wasteful. 

Before boiling salted beef, it should be soaked in a c^uantity of 



128 BEEF 

water over niglit; then put it on in cold water and it is much better 
for a long, slow boiling. 

BEEF BALLS. — Chop fine some cold beef, mix with the meat 1 
or 2 welhbeaten eggs, according to quantity of meat; a bit of chopped 
onion, a little melted butter, salt and pepper; flour your hands, roll 
the prepared meat into balls, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

CHIPPED BEEF. — Heat together 1 cup each of milk and water, 
and thicken wath a beaten egg and a little flour; when it has boiled 
5 minutes, add a quantity of chipped beef; stir in well ancl remove 
at once from the fire. 

BEEF OR VEAL CHEESE.— Boil and skim beef until the meat 
and gristle drop from the bone; chop the meat fine, season with pep- 
per, salt and sage, and put in a deep dish ; take all the fat from the 
soup and boil it away some, then pour it over the meat, stir well, and 
set away to cool and harden. Cut in slices and eat cold. 

CORNED BEEF. — Put it into cold water and boil slowly until 
tender. If there are any bones take them out, fold the meat together 
and press it under a heavy weight. It can then be sliced in nice 
shape. Time to boil | hour for each pound of beef. 

BEEF DAUBE (doe-b). — Have a slice cut from the top of the 
round of beef, 3 or 4 inches thick; take out the bone, cut places all 
over it an inch or two apart (doing it as evenly as possible) and 
place little squares of salt jjork in each cut; put it in a deej) frying* 
pan or baking tin with a little water, cover tightly, and bake, or sim- 
mer on the stove for an hour; then turn it in the pan, season with a 
little salt, pepper, and herbs if liked, slice on an onion, 2 or 3 pota- 
toes, a small turnip, and a carrot, cover again, and bake or simmer 
until the vegetables are done. Serve with sour apj)les, baked or 
fried. Time, If hours. 

DEVILED BEEF — Take 2 lbs. round steak, chopped fine, add a 
cup of bread crumbs, | cuj) of sweet milk, a good table spoon of but- 
ter, a good teaspoon of salt, a little pepper. Mix and put into square 
deep tins, and bake about | hour. It slices nicely when cold. 

DRIED BEEF. — This is commonly served as an appetizer, sliced 
very thinly, and eaten raw. It is cooked by slicing thinly, or rather, 
shaving it as for a relish, then put it in a sauce-pan and scald with 
just boiling water enough to cover it; let it scald 4 or 5 minutes, 
then drain off the water, and add ^ pint of cream; when this gets hot 
thicken it with a little cornstarch in cold milk; when thoroughly 



BEEF 129 

hot, serve in a hot dish. Milk may be substituted for cream, and a 
little butter added to season it, or the yolk of an egg. This is a con- 
venient and economical dish for a small family living at a distance 
from a market. Serve with either boiled or baked potatoes. 

DRIED BEEF RELISH.— Cut dried beef very fine, put it in a 
sauce^pan with a little hot water and let it simmer on the stove a few 
minutes; add a little butter, toast slices of bread a nice, delicate 
brown, and spread the beef over the slices of toast. If the dried beef 
is very salt, turn off the hot water after standing a few minutes; then 
add a little more to prepare it. 

FILLET OF BEEF — This is the underside of the loin; take 
out the bones. After trimming and larding, put into a pan, in the 
bottom of which are some small pieces of beef suet; sprinkle with 
salt and pepper; add 1 cup of water. Bake in hot oven 30 minutes; 
baste often with hot water. 

FRIZZLED BEEF.— Take 2 cups of sliced dried beef, -| cup of 
butter, 6 cups of sweet milk, 6 even teaspoons of flour, ^ teaspoon of 
pepj)er, and 12 small slices of bread. Brown the butter slightly, add 
the dried beef and let it cook until it curls at the edges; stir in the 
flour dry, add 'the milk and pepper, stirring constantly until it boils; 
turn it over the bread and serve. 

BEEF HEART — Cut open the heart, rub well outside and in 
with salt; make a nice dressing the same as for chicken, stuff the 
heart and sew it together. Roll a nice round steak around it and tie; 
season well with pepper and salt. Then put a plate in the bottom of 
a kettle, put in the heart, cover with water, and cook until tender. 
When about done, take it out and put into a dripping=pan, pour over 
the juice in which it was cooked, and place it in the oven to brown. 
Make a nice gravy to go with it. Excellent. 

HUNTERS' BEEF— Take 25 lbs. of round of beef, 3 oz. of salt- 
petre, 3 oz, of the coarsest brown sugar, 1 oz. of cloves, 1 nutmeg, ^ 
oz. of allspice, 3 handfuls of common salt — all in the finest powder. 
Take the bones from about 25 lbs. of a round of beef, and let it hang 
for 2 or 3 days. Then rub the above ingredients well into it every' 
day for 2 or 3 weeks, turning it every morning. When ready to 
be dressed, dip it into cold water to take off the loose spice, bind 
it up tightly with a wide tape and put it into a pan with a crust of 
flour and water; set it in the oven and bake it six hours. When it is 
cold, take off the paste and tape, glaze it and garnish it with savory 
jelly. The gravy is very fine, and adds greatly to the flavor of soups, 
hashes, etc. It keeps good for some time. 

9 



130 BEEF 

BEEF KIDNEYS. — Cut the kidneys in 2 slices, lengthwise; soak 
an hour in salted water, then wipe dry; dij:) them in a beaten egg, 
roll in cracker dust, and broil over a clear fire. 

Kidneys may be stewed until tender in a very little water, and 
seasoned; then thicken the broth, and serve. 

STUFFED LIVER — Scald slices of liver in boiling water with a 
little salt; make dressing as for iwultry; put a layer of thin slices of 
salt pork on the bottom of a deep baking=dish or tlie short-handled 
frying=pan; then spread half the liver on the jjork and place the 
dressing on it. Cover the dressing with the remaining half of the 
liver, cover with a pan or plate, and bake an hour. 

DEVILED LIVER.— Chop very fine IJ lbs. of . liver and { lb. of 
salt i^ork, both uncooked. Then mix | pint of bread crumbs, 'S ta- 
blespoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of pepper, -^ teaspoon cayenne, and | 
teaspoon of mace and cloves; add and mix well with the chopped 
liver and jwrk; put it in a covered sauce ijan, and set that in a sauce= 
IDan of cold water. Cover the sauce=pan and place on the fire to boil 
2 hours. Take out the mold, uncover, and let it stand in an open 
oven to let the steam escape. This is a cold dish. 

BEEF A LA MODE — Cut the bone from a round of beef, and 
fill the space with bread and butter dressing, or a dressing made with 
onions and spiced with herbs. Put a bandage around it to keep it in 
shape, and put it in a pot just large enough to hold it; add about a 
pint of water, cover tightly, and bake 3 hours. Good either hot or 
cold. 

MOCK DUCK. — Take a good piece of upper round steak, make a 
dressing as for turkey, and spread it over the steak; roll it up and 
wind it with a string. Bake it as you would roast beef, but not so 
long. It can be served hot, or allowed to cool with the string around 
it, when it can be cut in thin slices for luncheon or tea. If served 
cold, garnish handsomely with sliced lemon and green parsley. 

Mock Duck No. 2 — Make a dressing the same as for turkey, put it 
in a round of beefsteak which has been salted and peppered, and 
sew it uj); then roast it with 2 or 3 slices of salt pork on top, and 
baste it frequently. It will be equal to duck. 

BEEF OMELET.— Chop finely 1 pound of raw beef; roll 3 
crackers to a powder, and mix with them ^ teaspoon of baking powder; 
beat well 2 eggs, and then mix all together with a seasoning of salt, 
pepper and powdered herbs; put a piece of butter the size of an egg 
ill a pudding^dish, let it ju^t melt, then place the mixture in a cHke 



BEEF 131 

in the dish, flatten down into a flat cake in the bottom of the pud- 
ding=dish, and bake | hour. Take it up on a hot platter, spread the 
top with soft butter, and send to the table hot. Good for supper or 
breakfast in cold weather. For breakfast, serve hot corn meal muf- 
fins with the omelet. 

BEEF POT PIE A good dinner which combines the needed 

variety of foods in 1 dish, is a beef or mutton stew. Two pounds of 
cheap meat, neck of mutton, shin or round of beef, is enough for 4 to 
6 people. Cut the meat in inch jDieces, season with salt and pepper, 
and roll in flour. Put the bones in cold water and heat slowly; when 
boiling, put in the meat, already brow^ned in a frying pan, with a lit- 
tle hot fat. Add 1 or 2 small onions sliced and fried with the meat, 
if liked; a stalk of celery, or ^ cup of strained tomato, also gives a 
nice flavor. Simmer an hour, then add a medium sized carrot and 
turnip, cleaned and cut in i inch squares; cook 2 hours, or till the 
meat is tender; i hour before serving, j)ut in () potatoes already 
pared, quartered and parboiled to draw out their strong juice. Taste 
and season more if liked, and skim all fat from the top; 10 minutes 
before dinner time, jjut in the dumpling and cook without removing 
the cover. The DtDnpliin/s: 1 pint of flour, ^ teaspoon of salt, 2 tea- 
spoons baking powder, sifted together and mixed into a soft dough 
with 1 cup more or less of milk or water. Droj) from the tip of the 
spoon into the boiling stew, cover closely, and in 10 minutes take up 
on a hot platter or place around the platter on which the stew is 
served. 

POT=ROAST OF BEEF.— Take 5 or 6 pounds of the round of 
beef, remove the bone, put slices of suet in the bottom of a deep pot, 
and fry out the fat; leave the bits of suet in the bottom of the kettle, 
put in the b(^ef in a round shape, and add a pint of hot water; put on 
the stove where it will cook slowly. Cover well after sprinkling on a 
little salt, pepper, and sweet herbs, if liked. It should cook 2 or 3 
hours, and at last uncover it and rapidly cook out all the watej', until 
it begins to' fry in the Ijottom of the kettle; when it is nicely 
browned on the bottom, take up on a platter, the browned side up, 
and pour over it any fat left in the pot. Good, M'arm or cold. Cut 
in thin slices it makes nice sandwiches. 

PRESSED BEEF.-Take any kind of beef, stew it till the bones 
fall out, pick it over carefully, removing all gristle, and chop finely. 
Season to taste with pepi^er and salt, and add any herbs or siDices de- 
sired. Put it in a brick^shaped pan with a flaring top, put another 
pan on top, and weight with flat=irons or other convenient weight. 



132 



BEEF 




When cold, serve in slices. Tlins prepared, cheap and tough pieces 
of meat may be made delicious. 

ROAST BEEF.— The best pieces for 
roasting are the hrst and second cut of the 
sirloin. The next to be preferred are the 
first cut of the rib and the back of the 
rump. Dredge with flour, salt, and pep- 
per, place in dripping-pan with very little sikloin. 
water; baste frequently. If a large piece 

of beef (10 or 12 pounds) allow 15 minutes to every pound; a small 
piece, 10 minutes to every pountl. Make a gravy of the dripping. 
After carefully skinnning off all the grease, pour the remainder into 
a sauce-pan, mix a little brown flour carefully so as not to have any 
lumps, and stir into the liquid while boiling; boil 3 minutes and it is 
ready to serve. 

ROAST RIBS OF BEEF.— Take a 2 or 3 rib roast, have ribs 
sawed across 3 times at least, with no seasoning of (ini) kind as that 
injures the flavor of the meat. Set on bricks in a vc)-;) hot oven, sear 
over, and when well browned decrease heat by opening the door and 
closing the dampers; then cook slowly for 1 hour if liked rare, or la- 
bours if well done. 

ROAST BEEF AND YORKSHIRE PUDDING.— Into 2 cups 
flour mix 1 teaspoon baking powder, and a Y>\nc\\ of salt; add 1 cup 
milk, beat till smooth, and add another cup of milk. Put it in hot 
gem^^ pans and bake; baste it with beef drippings. Serve it with the 
roast beef. The batter is often poured under the beef to bake, 
but this is a better w^ay. 

SPICED BEEF.— Boil 2 or 3 pounds of fat beef slowly until the 
bones will easily separate from the meat; then take it out, take out 
all the bones, and chop the meat (fat and lean together) while hot; 
season with salt, white pepper and sifted sweet herbs — sage, thyme, 
parsley, or any best liked. Mix all thoroughly and put- in a brick=^ 
shaped bread pan to become cold for the next day. The broth can 
be used for a soup the next day. Serve the spiced meat, cut in 
slices, with potatoes, baked, or cooked in any way liked. 

BOILED TONGUE.- If the tongue is salted, soak over night in 
plenty of cold water; the next morning put it over the fire with 
enough cold water to cover it, and boil slowly 3 or 4 hours, according 
to the size; skin the tongue while hot and set away to cool. When 
cold, cut in very thin slices, excepting the extreme tip, which can be 



BEEF 133 

used for making side dishes. If the tongue is fresh, then soak it 
over night in cold water in which is a handful of salt; the next morn- 
ing put it over the fire and cook slowly, and proceed in the same 
manner as with salted tongue. 

TRIPE. — Tripe is usually sold already boiled and x)iekled, and is 
a good food if cider vinegar is used for a pickle; if any of the miner- 
al acids are used, it will unfavorably affect the digestion. After 
coming from the market, it is sometimes broiled, spread with l:)utter, 
and served with baked potatoes. It can be put on a platter and set 
on the grate in the oven until hot and then sj^read with butter; again, 
it can be fried brown in the frying pan with a little butter, and sea- 
soned with any of the i^iquant meat sauces. It may also be cut in 
strips, soaked 10 or 12 hours in salt and vinegar, wiped dry, and fried 
in hot lard. It can be stewed also. 

Fricasseed Tripe. — Cut in narrow strips 1 lb. of tripe and add to it 
1 cup of milk, or part water; put in a piece of butter the size of an 
egg, season with salt and pepper, and thicken with 1 tablespoon of 
flour, stirred with a little cold milk or water. Let it simmer gently 
for i hour, and serve hot. It may be improved by a bunch of x^arsley 
cut small and put with it. 

BEEFSTEAK. — Broiled Sfeak. — Grease the gridiron with suet. 
Have it liot. Put on the steak over hot coals. In a moment, 
when the steak is colored, turn it over. Watch and turn frecpiently. 
Do not let out the juice by sticking a fork in it. Remove to a hot 
platter. Sprinkle well with salt and pepper and butter M^ell. Set plat- 
ter into oven a few minutes, to let butter soak well in. Serve hot. 
The juice of a good steak is inside of it — not a gravy in the dish. 

Broiled Cliopped Beef steak (called Salisbury steak). — Take 2 lbs. of 
raw beefsteak and chop fine in a chopping bowl; then press together 
in flat pieces, each one large enough for 1 person, and broil over a 
bed of coals. This is nice for an invalid or person with j)oor teeth, 
especially if tender steak cannot be had. 

Beefsteak and Oysters. — Broil the steak the usual way. Put 1 qt. 
of oysters with very little of the liquor into a stew=i3an upon the fire; 
when it comes to a boil, take off the scum that may rise, stir in 3' 
ounces of butter mixed with a tablespoon of sifted flour; let it boil 
one minute until it thickens; jDour it over the steak aiid serve hot. 

Beefsteak Pie. — Put about 2 pounds of steak (round steak will an- 
swer) into a sauce=pan with a gill of water; put on the cover and sim- 
mer for an hour; then cut the steak into small pieces about ^ inch 
square; put them into a white pudding^dish, thicken the juice with a 



134 BEEF 

tablesiDoon of corn^starcli, season with salt, pepper, and herbs, also 
with garlic or onion if liked, and pour it over the meat; then cover 
with a rich pie crust and bake until the crust is a rich golden brown. 
This is good to serve at luncheons. A less expensive pie can be 
made by covering the meat with a nice baking powder biscuit dough. 
Bake this also until it is nicely browned. Time, about 1| hours. 

Beefsteak, Rolled.— Put a slice of round steak on the meat^board, 
sprinkle on a little salt and pepper, and put on bits of butter, with a 
little chopped onion if liked, and a little sifted sage; spread over it 
mashed potatoes, or sliced raw potatoes, and roll it up; wind with a 
string and fasten the ends with skewers; put in a baking=pan with a 
pint of water and bake slowly an hour; baste often. 

Beefsteak Smothered in Onions.— Cut 6 onions very fine, put them in 
a sauce=pan with 2 cups hot water, 2 oz. butter, some pepper, salt, 
and dredge in flour; let stew until the onions are quite soft. Have 
the steak broiled, put it into the sauce=pan with the onions, let sim- 
mer 5 or 10 minutes; send to the table very hot. 

Hamburg Steak. — Lay your beefsteak on the meat^board, salt and 
pepper it as required; peel and slice a few onions and cover the 
steak. Then with chopping knife choi) all together until like hash, 
and fry in hot fat, either in balls like sausage, or plain. Leave out 
the onions unless you know everyone at the table likes them. This 
is delicious. 

MINCED BEEF. 

2 cups of cold minced beef. 1 teacup of gravy. 

1 shallot, or small onion. 1 tablespoon of Chutnee sauce. 

1 bunch of parsley. Butter the size of an egg. 

Put the butter in a sauce pan, slice and fry the onion until a yel- 
lowish brown, add the gravy, then the chopped parsley; stir in the 
chutnee, add the beef, and let it get hot, but do not re=cook. Serve 
it on a platter garnished with parsley and fried bread. Time, 20 to 
30 minutes. 

BOILED DINNER.— Boil the corn beef early in the day; when 
tender, tak? it out and skim the fat otf the meat liquor; then, about 1 
hour before diimer, put into the boiling meat licpior the carrots first, 
having them washed and scraped; a little later put in the cabbage 
which has been cpiartered, and the turnips which have been pared 
and sliced; last, about i hour before dinner, put in the potatoes 
(peeled) and a crook-neck squash, peeled and sliced. Boil the beets 
by themselves. When done, take up the vegetables, put the cabbage 
in a colander and press out the water, cut up the carrots, and serve 



VEAL 185 

the meat and vegetables separately. Try to serve them as attractive- 
ly as possible. This is better than boiling meat and vegetables 
together. 

MOCK SAUSAGE.— Take 1 lb. of cold beef and chop fine; then 
take 3 tablespoons of chopped or mashed potatoes, 1 egg, 1 table- 
spoon of flour, and a small slice of bread; moisten the bread with 
milk or waler, stir all together, add salt, pepper, and a little sage, or 
chop an onion in. Make in small balls, and shape like slices of sau- 
sage. Fry in a little hot fat like potato balls, and when brown on 
one side, turn over and brown the other. 

SAUSAGE ROLL — Make a dough as for baking powder biscuit; 
roll out and cut in large rounds with a large biscuit cutter; lay fine 
sausage meat on half of each piece, turn the other half over and 
f)inch together; lay close together in a baking tin or dripping pan, 
and bake h hour. These are good either hot or cold. 

PRESERVING MEAT.— In cold weather when meat is plentiful, 
it can be preserved for a long time by treating it in the following 
manner: Take large pieces of the fore=quarter of beef (the cheap 
X^ieces of the neck and shoulders); boil it slowly in just water enough 
to cover, until it is tender; add a little salt for the last hour; let it 
stand until (piite cold, then mince it finely; season well with pepper, 
and last, pack tightly in a stone jar, put a few whole cloves on the 
top, then pour over it hot, melted beef suet. When this gets cold, 
cover the jar with a cloth, then with the cover, and store in a cool 
room. This is ready to use for mince pies, and for slicing to put in 
a potato pie, or it can be cut in slices and served cold with hot baked 
potatoes, for breakfast. 



VEAL. 

Veal should be thoroughly cooked, for cases -are not uncommon 
of illness arising from eating under done veal. The flesh is rather 
indigestible. No meat is more useful for making stews and gravies 
than veal. It needs much seasoning as it is deficient in flavor, and 
while it is richer in gelatine than beef, it has less nitrogen. It con- 
tains the least heat producing elements of any meat, and is best eaten 
with bacon and jelly, rice or potatoes, etc., which supply the elements 
it lacks. 

Old Veal.— This is most delicious meat and but little known. It 
is a calf kept yarded near the house, fed liberally with skimmed 



136 VEAL 

milk, vegetables of all kinds, and fattened to the age of 5 or 6 months 
in this way, then killed in the fall when the vegetables are gone. It 
is dressed and used like beef. 

BREAKFAST VEAL. — Butter a small oval dish very thoroughly, 
and fill with bits of cold, stewed veal, seasoned with pepper, salt, and 
a little nutmeg; put in alternately with layers of bread crumbs; 
moisten with gravy, put bits of butter over the top, and bake. When 
it is brown, turn out of the dish on a hot platter and garnish with 
parsley. If not too moist, it will keep its form when turned out. 
Time to bake, 20 to 30 minutes. 

VEAL, CREAMED — Chop cold veal, or cut in small, thin slices, 
leaving out the stringy part for your stock kettle. If you have a 
pint of meat, it is enough for a handsome dish. Put 1 teacup of rich 
milk into the teakettle pail, and, when hot, add 1 tablespoon of flour 
and 1 of butter, rubbed together. Let it boil up, and then stir in 
the veal, seasoned with pepper, salt, a pinch of mace, and a slice of 
onion. When hot, pour on a platter edged with leaves of j)uff 
pastry, and lay a few on the top of the mince. The leaves can be 
made of remnants of pastry when you are making pies. 

CALF'S BRAINS — Remove all the fibrous membrane which 
covers them, and throw into a pint of cold water containing ^ tea- 
spoon salt and 1 teaspoon vinegar. Boil 3 minutes, and plunge into 
cold water. When cold, cut into small pieces, season with salt and 
pepper; egg and bread=crumb, and fry in a little hot drippings. They 
may be prepared early in the day if for dinner, or the night before if 
for breakfast, and they may be served plain or with tomato sauce. 

VEAL CUTLETS, BREADED.— 

Egg and bread=crumb the cutlets, 

and fry them in smoking hot fat, 

turning them until well done — time 4 

to 6 minutes. Then take up and 

pour over them a good brown gravy; 

serve hot. They may be garnished Teal cutlet. 

with parsley. 

CALF'S LIVER, FRIED.— Cut the liver in thin slices, pour hot 
water over, to blanch it; let stand in the water while you fry the fat 
from ^ dozen slices of breakfast bacon ; take out the bacon and cut a 
large onion in slices and fry brown; then fry the liver, after drying 
it in a cloth; after the liver is brown on both sides, sprinkle over it a 
little salt and a teaspoon of curry powder; cover and stew 20 min- 
utes. 




VEAL 137 

CALF'S LIVER STEWED.— Wash and lard a calf s liver; chop 
1 tiirnix), 1 carrot, 1 stalk of celery, and 1 onion, and place them in 
the bottom of a deep bakings pan; place the liver on top, sj^rinkle salt 
and pepper over the whole, and pour on a pint of boiling water; 
cover the pan, and place in a moderate oven for 2 hours; when 
done, remove the liver, put a teaspoon of butter into a frying-pan, 
and place over the fire to heat; add the liquor strained from the veg- 
etables, and a little flour, stir until it begins to boil, then add a table- 
spoon of Worcestershire sauce; pour over the liver and serve at once. 

ROAST FILLET OF VEAL.— Bone the joint, make a deep in- 
cision between the fillet and saddle, and fill with dressing made as 
for poultry; bind the joint in round form and fasten with skewers 
and twine, and roast slowly, allowing about 20 minutes to the pound. 
Baste well with butter, dredge over a little flour, and butter well; 
make gravy of drippings, with the juice of a lemon added; garnish 
the platter on which the meat is served with slices of lemon and 
parsley. 

VEAL LOAF. — Chop 3^ lbs. of lean and fat raw veal very fine, 
with 1 slice of salt pork; add 6 crackers rolled fine, butter the size of 
an egg, 2 eggs, 1 tablesjjoon of pepper and 1 of sage; mix this 
thoroughly and pack it tightly in a deep, square tin; sprinkle over 
the top a little melted butter and fine cracker crumbs. Cover it with 
another tin and bake 2 hours; uncover and brown the top. Serve 
cold in thin slices. This is very nice for a picnic lunch. 

VEAL MAYONNAISE.— Cut pieces of cold veal into bits, not as 
small as dice; put in an equal quantity of celery, cut in small pieces; 
mix thoroughly, and pour over it a little of the dressing, reserving 
the rest to put over the top when it is arranged in the dish; garnish 
with lettuce leaves, and hard=boiled eggs cut in slices. Lettuce can 
be substituted for celery. 

MOLDED VEAL. — Cut thin slices of cold roasted veal, put them 
in the bottom of a pan, season with pepper, salt, and chopped celery; 
add a layer of hard=boiled eggs sliced thin, then a layer of thinly* 
sliced, cold boiled ham, and in this way fill the pan. Pour over it 
enough stock to cover the meat, and bake in the oven 1 hour. Let it 
stand until cold, and serve in thin slices. 

VEAL POT=PIE — Take 2 or 3 pounds of fat veal, cut it in small 
pieces, and put over the fire in cold water. When it comes to the 
boiling point, skim well, then cook slowly about an hour; do not boil 
rapidly, as that tends to make the meat hard. At the end of an hour 



13a VEAL 

sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add a sliced onion if liked by all, 
and a handful of washed rice to thicken it a little. Pare and slice 
enoug'h potatoes for the family, and add to the stew; when the broth 
boils a«-ain, after j^ntting in the potatoes, add dumplings made of 
baking powder biscuit dough, or crust made from recipe for potpie 
crust, and boil -| hour. 

P0T=P1E CRUST.— One pint sour milk, 1 teacup sour cream, 1 
teaspoon soda; mix hard like bread, let it stand 1 hour to rise; 
never roll nor cut, but nip it ofp in pieces the size you want, let boil 
30 minutes, without lifting the lid, and you will always have them 
like a puif. 

VEAL=AND=HAM PIE. — Cut the veal into very small pieces and 
put a layer on the bottom of a pudding^dish;- sprinkle over it a sea- 
soning of salt, pepper and powdered herbs (sage, thyme, summer 
savory, etc.), then lay on thin slices of cold boiled ham, fat and lean 
together, then another layer of veal, and so proceed to fill the dish; 
pour in enough cold stock or water to cover the meat, having sliced 
ham on the top; cover the top with a thick puif paste, and bake an 
hour in a hot oven. Put a dish of hot water- in the oven to prevent 
scorching the crust. When this is cold, it should be a firm jelly 
inside. 

"It's a veal'-and ham pie," said Mr. Boffin. " Is it indeed, sir? And it would 
be liavd, sir, to name the pie that is a better pie than a weel and hammer," said 
Mr. We-fr. 

ROAST VEAL PIE.— Cut cold roast veal into slices, with the 
stuflfing, and lay them in a deep dish, adding pepper and salt; dredge 
lightly with fiour, and put in the gravy that was left, with a little 
hot water added to it; a dish that holds 3 pints will ret[uire 1 cup of 
gravy. Cover the top of the pie with a crust made as follows: Crust. 
— One pint of flour with 2 teaspoons of baking powder sifted through 
it; add a piece of butter as large as | an O'j^ij:. rubbing it into the 
flour with the hand. Wet with some sweet milk, enough to make a 
dough as soft as you can handle it. Different qualities of flour differ 
in the (juantity of wetting required. Bake till brown -about 1 hour. 

SCALLOPED VEAL — Mince cold veal very fine. Put a layer 
in the bcjttom of a buttered pudding dish, season with pepper, salt 
and a very little nutmeg; then put in a thin layer of fine cracker 
crund)S, then another layer of meat, and so on until the dish is full. 
Wet with good broth; if you have no broth, make a little by boiling 
the bones and trimmings of your veal. Put over the top a layer of 
cracker crumbs, wet into a paste with a little milk, and mixed with a 



VEAL 130 

beaten egg. If your oven is not very slow, it is best to cover the dish 
with a pan for the first ^ hour, and then let it brown 10 minutes 
after you uncover it. Time, about 1| hours. 

SPICED VEAL. 

3 lbs. veal cut fine. 3 Boston crackers rolled fine. 

1 large slice fat pork. | teacup of catsup. 

3 eggs beaten well. 1 lemon, rind and juice. 

The salt and pepper should be mixed with the crackers; mix all, 
moisten with water and butter. Bake 2 hours. 

SMOTHERED VEAL.~-Place in the bottom of a bakingpan 3 
or 4 potatoes sliced, 1 small onion sliced, 2 slices cf salt pork cut into 
strips; season with salt, pepper and sage; place over this 3 or 4 
pounds of veal from the breast, or any other part desired; cover the 
meat with sliced potatoes, onion and other seasoning; sprinkle over 
all a tablespoon of flour, add a pint of water, cover the pan with 
another one, and place in the oven and cook 14 hours, adding 
water if it cooks dry. 

VEAL STEW. — Cut up 2 pounds of veal, and after having wash- 
ed it carefully, put it in the dinner=pot; add 3 pints of water, put in 1 
onion, pejjper and salt, and let it stew an hour; then add sliced 
potatoes, and take a crust made with a pint of flour, a cup of sour 
milk, and \ a'teasjjoon of soda sifted through the flour, a pinch of 
salt: cut up in squares, dust a little flour over them, lay them in on 
top, cover closely and cook h an hour. 

VEAL TOAST. — One cup of chopped veal, 1 cup of hot water, 
a piece of butter as large as a butternut, 1 teaspoon of salt, and \ tea- 
sj)oon of jDepper. Have ready on a platter, slices of bread toasted 
brown, and buttered; if the crusts are hard, dip the edges in hot wa- 
ter. Heat the minced veal thoroughly hot, pour it on the toast, and 
serve at once. 

SWEETBREADS. — At once on coming from the butcher (and 
that should be as soon as possible after the animal is killed) sweet- 
breads should be soaked 1 or 2 hours in cold water, and then cooked 
about 20 minutes in boiling water containing 1 teaspoon each of salt 
and lemon juice; then plunge them into cold water to harden them; 
take out and put into a towel to drain out all the water, and remove 
the pipes and membranes. They may then be cut into thin slices 
and broiled; or egged and bread crumbed and fried in hot fat; or 
sauted; or stewed in a very little water, and seasoned with salt, pep- 
per and butter. Serve with any of the meat sauces best liked by the 
individual. 



140 MUTTON AND LAMB 

SWEETBREAD CROQUETTES— After prepariii,^? 2 pairs of 
sweetbreads as above, cut them into dice, and also cut up and add ^ 
box of mushrooms. Into a sauce=pan put 1 large tablesjaoon of but- 
ter, and when it bubbles, sprinkle in 1 tablespoon of flour; cook 
well and add ^ cup cream or soup stock; heat and add the sweet- 
breads and mushrooms; when well heated, lift from the fire and add 
yolks of 2 eggs well beaten; form into croquettes when cool, then egg 
and bread=crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

CREAMED SWEETBREADS.-Prepare as above, and then with 
a silver knife pick them in jjieces; then put 1 tablespoon butter in the 
sauce=pan; melt without browning it, add 1 tablespoon flour, stir till 
smooth; add 1 cup cream and the sweetbreads, stir till it thickens; 
lift from the stove, season with salt and pepper and serve. Time, 20 
to 30 minutes. 

Sweetbreads consist of the Thymus Gland found in the neck of veal and lamb. 
It decreases in size and flavor as the animal grows older. The glands are found in 
the back part of the throat and in the breast. There should always be 2 of them, 
although they are sometimes sold separately. Tlie heart sweetbread is so called 
because it lies nearest the heart. It is the lower one and is round in shape. The 
throat sweetbread is the upper one, and is long and narrow. They are a great del- 
icacy (those of the calf are most esteemed) and if properly prepared make a fine 
dish to tempt the appetite of the invalid, although opinions differ somewhat as to 
their digestibility. The pancreatic gland of the bullock (that is, the gland near the 
stomach which secretes the pancreatic juice which aids in digesting the food) is 
sometimes sold as sweetbreads, but it is inferior in quality to the thymus gland of 
young animals and requires long and careful washing and cooking. 



MUTTON AND LAMB. 

Within the limits of wholesomeness, mutton varies immensely in 
quality and flavor. It is often thought more digestible than beef and 
is therefore prescribed for invalids. All young meat is less digestible 
and is also less nourishing than full-grown, but lamb has a better re- 
pute in this respect than veal. Although mutton may be served rare, 
lamb should be thoroughly cooked always. The strong flavor of mut- 
ton, which is disagreeable to many, comes from the penetration 
through the skin of the oil from the wool; the thin outside skin 
should be taken ofp before cooking the meat. Mutton should always 
be served on hot plates in the winter, never allowing any cold mutton 
tallow to appear on the edges and disfigure the dish. 

BOILED MUTTON.— Cut off the superfluous fat from a breast of 
mutton, remove as much of the bone as will bring it into shape for 
the kettle, add water to only half cover it, and cover the kettle tight- 
ly; let it boil gently for an hour, then turn it in the kettle, and sea- 



MUTTON AND LAMB 141 

son with salt, pepper and herbs if liked. Add a little more water if 
needed, and boil for another hour; then serve with caper sauce. 

A mutton ham can be boiled in the above manner with another 
half hour's time. A leg of Iamb also can be cooked in this way in 
about li hours. 

MUTTON CHOPS. — Remove a portion of the fat and trim them 
into a nice shape; place the gridiron over a bright, clear fire, rub the 
bars with a little fat, and lay on the chops. Whilst broiling, frequent- 
ly turn them, and in about 8 minutes they will be done. Season 
with pepper and salt. Serve hot on a hot dish. Or they can be bak- 
ed in a dripping pan in a hot oven, basting frequently; they are very 
nice this way. They can also be fried on a frying pan, having it very 
hot, and using no other fat than that from the chop. As soon as one 
side is seared (in about 1 minute) turn over on the other; then finish 
the cooking more slowly. Sprinkle salt on each side when almost 
done. 

MUTTON AND RICE.— Mince into dice, pieces of cold mutton 
or lamb; add 1 cup of cold boiled rice to 1 cup of meat; butter the 
sauceqjan thoroughly, pour in a little water, add the mutton and 
rice, and stir until it is hot; then pour in 2 eggs slightly beaten, and 
stir until the eggs are cooked. Season with salt and pepper to taste. 

MUTTON PATTIES.— Mince cold mutton, fat and lean together, 
and season with salt and pepi^er; if the mutton is lean, add a piece 
of butter and warm all together in a sauce pan, with a little water to 
make it moist; put it in patty- j)ans, and cover the top with mashed 
potatoes; put a bit of butter in a little dent in the center and bake in 
the oven to a delicate brown — about 10 or 15 minutes. Serve hot 
in the patty-pans. 

MUTTON PIES.— Mince coarsely, cold mutton, fat and lean 
together, and i^ut in the bottom of a pudding=dish. Sprinkle with 
salt and pepper, with a little butter if the mutton is not fat, then 
cover deeply with hot mashed x^otatoes; set in the oven to brown a 
little, and to let the pudding-dish get thoroughly hot — about 10 or 15 
minutes. Serve with hot plates. 

Warming cold minced meats, as a pie with mashed potatoes, is one of the best 
ways of re wanning any kind of fish or cold meat — the most appe*^^izing and the 
most economical. 

MUTTON OR LAMB PIE — Cut finely, bits of raw mutton or 
lamb; put to stew in just water enough to cover, and cook slowly 
until the bones, if there are any, will separate from the meat. Put 
them in a pudding=dish, season and thicken the gravy, and pour over 



142 MUTTON AND LAMB 

the meat in the baking dish. Make a nice baking=powder biscuit 
dough, and cover the pie; bake until the crust is a golden l)rown. 

MUTTON RECHAUFFE.— Slice an onion and fry it brown in 
the pan, with a little goixl butter; then put in a pint of good stock, 
or water, if you have no stock, and let it come to boiling. Thicken 
with a teaspoon of corn starch wet in a little water. When it has 
boiled, strain out the onion, and add salt and pepper to taste. Have 
cold sliced mutton on a hot platter; pour the hot sauce over it, and 
send to the breakfast table with hot plates. Time, 20 to 30 minutes. 

SCRAMBLED MUTTON.— Take 2 cups of cold chopped mutton 
or land), 2 tablespoons of hot water, a piece of butter the size of an 
English walnut. When the meat is hot, break into it 8 eggs and 
cook until the eggs begin to stiffen, stirring constantly. Season 
with pepper and salt. Time, 10 to 20 minutes. 

IRISH STEW. — This is a nice and economical dish, and can be 
made from any kind of meat, the best being the best end of the neck 
of mutton, Kemove nearly all the fat from 2 lbs. of meat, and cut it 
into chox3s. Peel and slice 8 lbs. i^otatoes, and also slice 1| i^ounds 
onions. Put a layer of potatoes in the kettle, then a layer of onions, 
then meat; i epper and salt it well, and so put in all the materials in 
layers. Add 1 or 2 cups water, cover closely, and let it stew {not 
boil ) 2 or 3 hours. 

SCOTCH STEW — Cut 2 pounds of fresh mutton into small 
pieces; i^ut them into a stew-pan with 3 quarts of cold water and a 
tablespoon of salt; set it upon the fire, and cook very slowly, letting 
it simmer, and keeping it well skinnned. After it has simmered an 
hour, add a large carrot, 2 turnips, 2 large onions, all cut in jiieces, 
and 2 small heads of cabbage. Let the whole sinuner until tender, 
1 to 1-| hours, and serve it with the various ingredients. 

MUTTON AND TOMATOES. -Out cold roast mutton in thin 
slices, fat and lean together; put it on a hot platter, and pour over it 
5 or 6 tomatoes, stewed, and seasoned with salt, pepper, a bay leaf, a 
little pulverized sage, and a bit of onion,'if liked. If the mutton is 
lean, add a piece of butter the size of an egg to the tomatoes. There 
should not be much juice of the tomatoes, and the excess should be 
I)oured off before seasoning. Good for breakfast with baked potatoes 
and tcast 

BOILED SHEEP'S TONGUES. -Boil ^ doz. tongues until ten- 
der, in water which is salted and contains the juice of -^ a lemon 
Serve cold. Sauce Tartare is excellent to serve with them, Time to 
boil 2 or 3 hours, elowly, 



MUTTON AND LAMB 143 

ESCALLOPED LAMB.— Chop coarsely, cold lamb, either baked 
or boiled, and put a layer in a pudding dish with a sprinkle of salt 
and pei^per, and little bits of butter, then a layer of bread crumbs, 
and thus fill the dish, having a layer of crumbs on the top; fill the 
dish with hot water up to the top layer of crumbs, and bake until the 
crumbs are browned — about 1 hour. 

LAMB'S LIVER, CURRIED— Cut it in convenient slices to 
serve, soak in salted water for 5 minutes, while an onion is frying in 
salt pork fat; take the liver from the water, dry in a cloth, then put 
it into a j)an and fry brown on both sides. Have the fat hot, and fry 
quickly. When brown, add a little water or stock, dust with salt and 
a little curry powder, cover, and simmer 10 minutes. 

LAMB, GRILLED — Take a cold shoulder of lamb, and score 
the meat deeply at | inch distances; prepare a teaspoon of salt, 1 of 
white pepper, a saltspoon of cayenne, a trifle of onion juice, and the 
strained juice of a lemon; rub this into the meat at night. In the 
morning, put it on a gridiron over a clear, coal fire, and thoroughly 
heat through; put on a hot platter and spread with softened butter. 
Send to the table with hot plates. 

KID. — This is cooked in the various ways given for lamb, and is 
much like lamb after being cooked. 

SHEEP'S BRAINS. — Remove the skin and blood vessels and 
put them in warm water for 2 hours; then put them in boiling water, 
containing a little salt and vinegar, and leave until firm; then take 
out and put in very cold water. Then drain, dry, brush with oil, and 
roll in crumbs, well seasoned with pepper and salt. Put slices of 
bacon on them, and bake in a well heated oven, basting frequently. 
When nicely browned, take up, put the slices of bacon on toast, and 
lay the brains on the bacon. Serve with tomato, Tartare, or some 
acid sauce. 

MEAT ROLY POLY. ^ 

4 cups flour. 1 teacup milk. 

2 teaspoons baking- powder. 1 teaspoon salt. 

Do not use any shortening, but mix and roll out ^ inch thick,' 
and spread minced mutton, veal or chicken on it. Have the meat 
free from gristle, and season it with pej^per and salt. Then roll the 
crust over and over, and put it on a buttered plate, and steam in the 
steamer | hour. Serve for breakfast or lunch, giving a slice to each 
person, wath gravy served with it. 



144 PORK 

PORK. 

Pork, more than any other meat, requires to be chosen with the 
greatest care. If it is killed and the tlesli eaten when in an un- 
healthy condition, those who eat it will probably pay dearly for their 
indulgence. Care should be taken that pork is thoroughly cooked, 
as it is most indigestible when under-dressed. Uncooked or under= 
cooked pork should on no account be eaten. Exposure to the tem- 
perature of boiling water effectually kills the trichina, but obviously 
every part of the meat, inside and out, must be fully heated to 
destroy all the trichina, and there is no safety without that. 

To freshen salt pork or ham, after cutting in slices, soak it ior a 
few hours, or over night, in milk and water, or in sour milk, which is 
quite as good; afterwards rinse it until the water is clear, before 
frying, and it will be as palatable as salt pork can be made. 

BAKED HAM — Cover the ham with cold water (after having 
thoroughly cleaned it) and simmer gently just long enough to loosen 
the skin, so that it can be easily taken off — in 2 or 3 hours, if the 
ham is large. After skinning, place it in a dripping=ijan in the oven, 
and pour over it a teacup of vinegar, and 1 of water; put a little 
mustard in the water, and baste the ham with this while baking 
slowly for an hour; then cover the ham all over thickly with sugar, 
in which is mixed a tablespoon of flour, and bake slowly another 
hour iviihoui basting. This gives a nice, brown, glazed crust; when 
it has partly cooled, turn a flat dish on the pot, and put a weight on 
it, to get thoroughly cold. This latter process insures nice, smooth 
slices when cut. The juice of a lemon may be substituted for the 
vinegar, if preferred. 

HAM BALLS. — With ^ cup of bread crumbs mix 2 well-beaten 
eggs and some finely=chopped ham ; season with pepper and a very 
little salt; make into balls, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

BOILED HAM To boil a ham it must first be thoroughly 

washed and scraped in warm water, containing a little baking=soda; 
then rinse in cold water, put it over the fire, skin side upward in the 
kettle, with water enough to completely cover it; let it slowly simmer 
3 or 4 hours, according to the size; if it cooks rapidly, it will break in 
pieces. When done, take it from the kettle and remove the skin 
while hot, leaving on all the fat; stick cloves all over the fat part, and 
put it into the oven, to brown a little. It should be entirely cold be- 
fore it is cut. Both lean and fat should be served in carving, as 
many persons like the latter best. Mustard, spiced vinegar, catsup, 
or pickles, are used as condiments with this. 



'ii' *s >:■ 



PORK 145 

BROILED HAM — Ham is better broiled than fried. Slice it 
thin, and broil the slices on a gridiron, and when done on both sides, 
place on a platter with a fried egg on each slice. It should be broil- 
ed over bright, hot coals, from o to 6 minutes. 

HAM PATTIES — Take 1 pint of cold boiled ham, finely chop- 
ped; mix it with an equal quantity of bread crumbs wet in milk to 
make a soft batter; put the batter in patty^pans, break a fresh egg 
over each pan, sjprinkle the top of each dish thickly with cracker 
crumbs, and bake until brown on the top — about 1^ hours. 

ROAST PIG. — The pig should weigh 12 pounds at least, be- 
fore dressing; the butcher should dress it, leaving on the head and 
feet, and clean thoroughly; the harslet should be sent with the 
pig. First cook the liver and heart by boiling about 20 minutes in a 
little salted water; then chop them finely. Cut a loaf of bread in 
slices and dip in cold water, chop, and add to the harslet; pour over 
it a teacup of melted butter, and 2 well beaten eggs; season with pei?- 
per, salt, sage, and onions if liked. Mix all together, and fill the pig; 
then sew it together. Bend the front legs under at the knees, and 
the hind legs forward at the gambrel joint; put a stick in the mouth 
to keep it open, wind a cord around to keep the legs in place; put in 
the dripping-pan with a little water, and tin dishes on each side to 
keep it on the knees. Bake until done — 2 to 3 hours. Baste fre- 
quently, using melted butter at first; do not let it burn. Put a 
small red apple or lemon in the mouth before sending to the table, 
and serve with baked sour apples. 

ROAST PORK — The loin, chine or spare ribs are best for roast- 
ing. Rub on salt, pepper and flour, and bake in a moderate oven; 
baste often. Time, about 20 minutes to the pound. It is best eaten 
cold. 

BOILED PIGS' FEET.— The 2 front feet should be cleaned, 
scraj)ed, and to keep them in shape wrap them tiglitly in muslin, and 
sew or tie it up; boil 6 or 7 hours moderately; then let them cool, 
take off the wrapj)ing and they will be like jelly. They can then be 
split, rolled in crumbs, and broiled or fried. Some acid sauce should 
be served with them. 

SPARE=RIBS AND CHINES.— These are usually too fat to cook 
in any other way than by baking or roasting in the oven; in this way 
much of the superfluous fat is draM^i from them. Rub them well with 
a little fine salt, flour, pepper and pulverized sage, if liked; put them 
on the rack in the dripping-pan, containing a pint of hot water; the 
10 



146 PORK 

oven must be hot, but not enough to scorch the meat; baste often. 
The meat should bake about 2 hours, or until it is well browned; then 
take it up, pour otf the fat from the gravy, at one corner of the drip- 
ping-pan, and thicken the remainder with a tablespoon of flour or 
corn=starch; add a little water to make about a pint of gravy. Serve 
with sour baked apples, onions, potatoes and mashed turnips. Shoul- 
der chine of pork, and loin, are cooked in the same manner. 

Pork requires long and thorough cooking, for the texture of the flesh is cUise; 
fresh sparesribs particularly require it, to extract all the superfluous fat, and it 
should be roasted or baked until of a rich brown color. 

Chine of Pokk. — The chine of an animal is the back»bone witli the meat 
attached, and (ji-ikkin (a term obsolete in tliis country) is used in England to desig- 
nate tlie back=bone of swine, and particularly that part lying between the shoul- 
ders of the animal. The chine of pork is more often divided into " fore loin," that 
part lying between the shoulders; " sparc=ribs," or that part containing the long 
ribs, and "hindsloin," or small part of the spine just above the hams. In Eng- 
land, the hind=loin is sometimes called a chine when the bone is uncut and the two 
sides of the loin are in one piece, corresponding to the "baron of beef," or "saddle 
of mutton." In England these are all roasted, but in this country (the land of 
Yankee cooking stoves) all divisions of the chine are cooked exactly like the mid- 
dle pieces or spare=ribs. 

PORK CUTLETS.— Take the remains of cold baked pork and cut 
it in nice pieces of the right size to serve; put a little of the cold fat 
in a frying=pan and let it get hot; fry a sliced onion 1 rown, then lay 
in the cutlets, and fry them a light brown in the fat ^\ith the onions; 
take them up, and make a gravy with a little corn starch and cold 
water; season with salt and pepper, and when thickened, pour it over 
the cutlets and serve. 

PORK AND EGGS.— Cut 2 or '3 slices of salt pork in dice, and 
fry, often turning it over and over with a fork; then break 5 or 6 
fresh eggs and put them in the j)an with the pork; Ftir all together 
rax^idly, and cook until the eggs are set. 

PORK RECHAUFFE {Reheated).— Cni finely, cold roast pork, 
put a layer of this in the bottom of a pan or i^udding dish and season 
to taste; then a layer of bread crumbs, another layer of cold pork, 
thus fill the dish; have a layer of fine crumbs on the top, but before 
putting them on, pour into the dish enough broth or water to moist- 
en the ingredients; then put crumbs on the top, and bake until brown 
on top, about ^ to 1 hour. Cold baked or roastel pork is more often 
served cold, nicely sliced, and sent to the table with hot baked, or 
mashed potatoes. 

PORK STEAKS.— Take slices of fresh pork that have the fat 
and lean well blended, put on a hot gridiron and broil it thoroughly, 
over a clear coal fire, turning often, and lifting if the dropping fat 



PORK 147 

blazes to scorch the meat; put it on a hot platter, sprinkle with salt, 
and send in with baked potatoes. 

FRIED SALT PORK — This is a most excellent dish when prop- 
erly prepared, for those who are blessed with a good digestion. The 
pork should be of the best quality and " clear fat." Cut the slices 
nearly ^ of an inch thick, take otf the rind, put in a hot frying-pan, 
and fry until crisp. Place the pork around the edge of the platter, 
fry a few eggs for the center, and serve. Salt pork is sometimes 
dipped in flour or yellow cornnieal before frying, and is excellent. 
After taking up the pork, a nice milk gravy can be made by adding 
corn=starch or flour to milk; pour it into the hot fat from the i^ork, 
and stir until it is thickened and well blended. This gravy is good 
with new potatoes; also delicious with buck= wheat muffins. 

SOUSE. — Clean the ears, feet and gristly part (not the fat) of 
the pig's head; let them soak 12 hours in brine, then take out, scrape 
clean, and soak again in fresh brine. Then wash, put them in cold 
water, and boil gently until the bones loosen from the meat. Then 
put the meat in jars (not earthenware, or the vinegar will act on it) 
and cover with boiling hot spiced vinegar. 

SOUSE PIE. — Cut the toes from the pig's feet, and use the legs 
up to the ham. Soak and clean well; cut in pieces, and boil in 
water to cover, with a little salt, until tender. Add a little boiling 
water from time to time as it evaporates, and turn the meat from the 
bottom of the kettle with a skimmer to prevent burning. Take out 
the meat when done, and remove the bones; put the meat in a pan, 
or large pudding^dish, adding a little more salt if necessary; thicken 
the broth with corn= starch and pour over the meat; cover it with 
baking powder biscuit dough, and bake until the dough is well 
browned. Cheap and good. Time, altogether, 4 or 5 hours. 

SALT PORK DlNNER.^Cut enough slices of salt pork to 
cover the bottom of the frying pan; take ofP the rind; pour hot water 
over the pork and turn it off immediately; dip each slice in flour, and 
fry it brown on both sides; take it up on a platter and keep warm. 
Pour nearly all the fat into another frying i^an and fill it with sour 
ai^ples already sliced, with the skins on. Sprinkle the apples with a 
little salt, and cover tightly with a deep, white pie-plate; stew until 
the apples are soft. In the meantime add a pint of svreet milk to the 
fat left in the first pan; let it simmer, then thicken with a little flour 
or corn-starch, and send it to the table in a bowl or gravy-boat. 
Serve with new potatoes and sweet^corn. 



148 POULTRY 

PORK WORST — Cut a pig's head in pieces, and soak, with the 
liver and heart, over night in slightly salted water. The next morn- 
ing wash and put it over the fire to cook slowly, in just water enough 
to cover it. When the bones will separate, take them all out, and 
cut the meat in very small pieces; return to the kettle, add salt, pep- 
per, and any sweet herbs liked; then thicken it to the consistency of 
mush, with flour; fill square baking=pans with it, and let it get cold; 
then slice, dip in flour, and fry in salt pork fat. 

HEAD CHEESE {English Brawn).~The cheeks of pig s heads 
are reserved for salting with the hams and shoulders; the remainder 
is cut in pieces and soaked over night in salted water; the next morn- 
ing wash thoroughly, and put over the fire in a kettle with just water 
enough to cover the meat (the cleansed pig's feet may be added). 
Simmer slowly until the bones will easily separate from the meat, 
then take it up in a pan and pick out every bone; cut the meat in 
small pieces, season to taste with salt, pepper, and sifted sage; pom- 
over the broth from the kettle, and put it in a cold pantry to harden. 
When thoroughly cold, remove the fat from the top of the pan, cut 
in slices, and serve with hot baked, or mashed potatoes. 

SAUSAGES, TO COOK. — Sausage cakes are usually fried; 
when they are in skins, they should be pricked to prevent them from 
bursting, and they should be turned on all sides to insure thorough 
cooking. Sausages, especially those made of pork, should always be 
well cooked, and should never look red in the center when cut. 
They are best baked, as they are then cooked slowly and are more 
thoroughly browned than when fried. Serve with baked potatoes, or 
mashed potatoes and other vegetables. The large Bologna sausages, 
made of beef mostly, require a long and thorough boiling for 3 or 4 
hours; they are then dried and smoked. They are usually prepared 
and cooked by the butcher, and are eaten cold. The best thing to 
serve with pork sausages is apple=sauce. They garnish a roast 
turkey nicely. 



POULTRY. 

In selecting jjoultry, choose those which are plump, but not too 
fat. If they are young, they should be firm to the touch. If the 
bone across the breast above the hollow skin is hard to the touch, the 
bird is old; in young ones it is more like gristle. W^hitedegged birds 
are given the preference by some, because they look better on the 
table, but black arc equally good eating. Dark fleshed game can be 



POULTRY 149 

eaten rare, but the white-fleshed should always be well done. In 
preparing i^oultry great care is required not to break the gall=bladder, 
for if it is broken, the gall will leave a bitter taste on every place it 
touches, which cannot be washed off. 

Young poultry has not an excess of fat unless it has been 
"crammed" for that purpose, in which case it should be avoided, as 
that process affects the health of the fowls. 

Slightly Tainted Meat. — Poultry and all meats should be cooked 
immediately if the least sign of taint ajopears; give it first a thorough 
washing in soda water, then a rinsing in clear water to which a little 
vinegar has been added; then either bake or roast it, as that mode of 
cooking drives away bad odors from meat better than any other. 

Onion. — It is better to leave onions out of all meat dressings, un- 
less you are sure they are liked by all at the table. A rich onion 
sauce can be sent in with them, or boiled onions served as one veg- 
etable, for those who like them. 

Overcoming the, Strong Smell of Old Fowls. — If old fowls are washed 
in warm soda water, the strong smell will be overcome. 

If a roast fowl cannot be served as soon as it is done, put it 
over a kettle of boiling water and put a dripping=pan over it, which 
will keep it from drying up. 

The Garnishes for Fowls.— These are parsley, water cress, horserad- 
ish, slices of lemon, slices of ham, fried oysters or sausages, and 
forcemeat=balls. 

To Draw a Fowl. — Place the fowl on its back, and make a slit 
lengthwise in the skin of the neck from the body to the head; free 
the neck from the skin, and cut off the neck as close to the body as 
possible; then cut the skin, leaving a flap at least 3 inches long- 
hanging to the breast. Loosen the crop and the windpipe, and insert 
the first finger, keeping it close to the inside surface of the body; 
work it round, breaking all the ligaments with which it comes in 
contact, thus loosening the contents of the carcass. Be careful 
not to thrust the finger into the centre, for if* the galhbladder is 
broken, the gall will impart a bitter taste to whatever it may touch. 
Turn the bird, slightly enlarge the opening at the vent, insert the 
finger, and loosen the insides from the carcass at that end. Turn the 
bird again, and place it on its back; press tha breast with the 
thumbs, and push out the gizzard by the hole at the vent; take hold 
of it and pull steadily, when the whole of the interior should be 
brought away entire. If all the insides are removed, little washing 
will be needed. Wipe it out with a damp cloth, or rinse quickly and 
wipe dry. If the breast bone protrudes too much, put a cloth over 



150 POULTRY 

it and beat it down flat, putting something like a pestle inside to 
pound on. 

To Truss a Fowl. — After stuffing the fowl, sew the skin of the 
neck over the back. Then run a long skewer through the pinion 
"and then through the body and out through the other pinion, press- 
ing them close to the body. Also press a skewer through the 
thigh and body and out through the other thigh. Pass a string over 
the projecting ends of the skewers and tie it firmly at the back, to 
keep the bird firmly trussed. The legs can be crossed over the tail 
and firmly tied. The wings and thighs can be tied in place by 
winding a string around the body, if you have no skewers; cut the 
string off carefully when done, so as not to tear the flesh. 

Boned Poultry.— Cut through the skin down the center of the 
back, and raise the flesh carefully on either side, with the point of 
a sharp knife, until the sockets of the wings and thighs are reached. 
Until a little practice has been gained, it will perhaps be best to 
bone their joints before proceeding further; but after they are once 
detached from it, the whole body may be easily separated from the 
flesh,, and taken out entire; only the neck, bones, and the merry= 
thought will then remain to be removed. The fowl thus prepared 
may either (1) be restored to its original form by filling the legs and 
wings with stuffing; the body of the bird, also, should be filled 
with stuffing, and then the skin on the back should be sewn together, 
and the fowl trussed as usual. Or (2) the legs and wings may be 
drawn into the body, and the remaining space be filled with the 
dressing. 

Plain Dressing.— Take slices of stale bread (do not remove the 
crusts) dip it in cold water, and chop in the tray; season with 
sa'lt and xjepper, and for | loaf of bread soften a teacuij of butter 
and stir into the bread; add a beaten raw egg and stir tliat in well. 
Fill the cavity in the fish or meat, but do not crowd it in; sew up, 
or wind the meat with a string, and when done, this will be light 
and crumbly — not pasty, as when made with hot water, nor hard, as 
when stuffed into the fish or fowl. This is excellent for fish, poul- 
try, game, etc. 

Poultry Stuffing. — Take a loaf of light bread,- chop fine; add a 
little melted butter, or cream, and 2 eggs. Some savory summer 
celery leaves improve it often, with warm water and milk. 

Various Stuffings.— For fowls a variety niay be had by adding to 
the jDlain dressing, dates, stoned raisins, chopped celery, etc. A little 
ingenuity will devise many varieties. 



POULTRY 



151 




Oyster Stuffing. — Take a small loaf of baker's bread, remove the 
crust, and crumb the bread very fine; pour on hot water enough 
to moisten it, and cover it tight. Chop 1 large onion and a c^t. 
of oysters, take | cup of melted butter, 1 teaspoon of powdered 
sage, and salt to taste. Mix all together, and if the oyster liquor 
does not make it moist enough, add a little more hot water. 

Chestnut Stuffing — Blanch, boil, and mash, 12 large chestnuts. 
Cook the liver of the fowl, mince it tine, and 
add the yolks of 2 eggs, 1 teaspoon each of salt 
and minced onion. 1 tablespoon chopped ham, 2 
tablespoons grated bread, a little lemon juice and 
white pepx3er; mix all with the maslied chestnuts^ 
and use for stuffing. 

The chestnut is said to have come ovigiuaUy from Lyilia. 
It has been used for food from very ancient times. It attains 
a great age. As a food it is the least oily of all the nuts, and 
the easiest of digestion. It contains 15 per cent, of sugar, 
and a large proportion of starch. They can be preserved so 
as to keep good for years. The tree called horse=chestnut is 
altogether different and its fruit is not suitable to eat. chestnut. 

BOILED CHICKEN.— Pluck, singe, wash, and bone them, till 
with any dressing liked; do not crowd in the dressing; sew up, and 
boil gently for an hour or more. To jjrevent the skin from breaking, 
roll each one up in a separate cloth. For salads, and cold sliced 
chicken, they may be boiled in a kettle w^ith the water slightly 
salted, and without the dressing. Boil until the meat will start from 
the bones, and let them get entirely cold before cutting for salads; 
then they can l)e skinned and all the meat, served in a much nicer 
manner than when the bones are taken out before cooling. 

CHICKEN FRICASSEE— Take 2 young chickens, cut them 
up, put them in a stew pan, merely cover with cold water, cover with 
the pan, and stew until tender; then season with salt and pepper, and 
2 tablespoons of butter. A little celery can be added if liked. Add 
2 tablespoons of flour, wet with a little milk or ^water, and the well 
beaten yolks of 2 eggs, which are mixed with a little of tlie cooled 
gravy, before being added; bring all to a boil, and then put the 
chicken on a warm plate, and pour on part of the gravy, sending the 
balance to the table in a l)oat. If old fowls are used, they will need 
longer stewing than chicken — 3 or 4 hours being none too much. 

SOUTHERN FRICASSEE.- Cut up chicken as for a fricassee. 
Dry each piece and dip in beaten egg and roll in cracker dust; sea- 
son with pepper and salt, and fry each piece very brown in half 
butter and half lard. When well browned, add 1 cup of hot water, 



152 POULTRY 

cover and simmer | hour. Then take out chicken and put on plate 
in warming oven. Have ready a bowl of rice — cooked; put it into 
fryingpan which the chicken liquid has simmered in, add 2 toma- 
toes, chopped fine, a chili pepper, also chopped fine. Toss all 
together lightly with a fork. Pile high in the center of platter and 
lay around it the pieces of fried chicken; garnish with stoned olives. 

CHICKEN CHEESE — Take 2 chickens, boiled tender, chopped 
not too fine, and seasoned with salt and pepper. Boil hard 3 or 4 
eggs, and slice, with which line molds and pour in the chickens, 
adding the liquor in which they were boiled. When perfectly cold, 
slice for luncheon, or Sunday tea, or for sandwiches. 

ESCALLOPED CHICKEN. -Cut cold boiled potatoes into irreg- 
ular pieces; remove all the meat from a cooked chicken and cut it 
into small pieces; make a sauce of 1 pint of milk and 1 beaten egg, 
seasoned with a little salt and pepper; put a layer of the meat in a 
pudding dish, then a layer of potatoes, and sauce to cover them; 
another layer of meat and potatoes, and cover the whole with cracker 
crumbs, moistened with melted butter; bake ^ an hour. 

CHICKEN LOAF. — Boil 2 chickens in as little water as possible 
to cook them without burning, until the meat will droi3 from the 
bones. Remove the meat from the bones and cut it fine without 
chopping. Put it back in the kettle, with plenty of butter, pepper 
and salt; heat it thoroughly. Slice a hard=boiled egg in the bottom 
of a dish, pour the chicken over it hot, place a weight upon it and 
set in a cool place. When cool, it will come out in a form. 

CHICKEN AND OYSTERS.— Take a nice, tender chicken, and 
split it down the back, and after cleaning it well, pound all the bones 
flat; wash and wipe it dry; season with pepper and salt, and fry in 
sweet lard until tender and brown on both sides; put it on a platter 
and keep it warm. Make a gravy in the pan (after pouring out the 
fat) with ^ pint of water, a piece of butter, and flour for thickening, 
or use ^ pint of cream without the butter, if preferred. Have ready 
about 25 large oysters washed clean in salt and w\ater, then dried in a 
towel, and add them to the gravy when it comes to boiling; plump 
thein in the hot gravy, and pour on the dish of chicken. Serve hot. 
Time, about | hour. 

CHICKEN PATTIES — Take 1 pint of .cream, 1 tablespoon of 
corn=starch, 1 pint of cooked chicken, chopped coarsely. Let half 
the cream come to a boil in a stew-pan. Mix the remainder of the 
cream with the corn^starch, and add as soon as it boils; when this 



POULTRY lo3 

thickens, take off the fire, add the chopped chicken, and season to 
taste with salt, white j)epper, and any other seasoning liked. Line 
patty=pans, small saucers, or sauce=plates, with rich pie crust, and 
bake. When all is cold, place a heaping spoon of the chicken on 
each crust and serve. 

CHICKEN PIE. — Cut the chicken i^i small pieces as for frying, 
and stew in just water sufficient to cover it, with a little salt, until 
the meat begins to separate from the bones; take it out, pick out the 
bones, and put the meat in a tin j)an or large puddingdish; season 
the gravy with a little more salt, if needed, and a little white pepper, 
then thicken with a little corn=starch; add a lump of butter if the 
chicken is lean, and pour the gravy over the chicken. Make a rich 
baking=powder biscuit dough, spread it with the hands until it is 
large enough to cover the pie, place it on the meat, and cut a large 
cross in the middle of the crust; bake until the crust is a rich, golden 
brown (f to 1 hour), but do not have the oven hot enough to 
scorch it. 

Dangerous Gases in Meat Pies. — If the i^ie is cut and eaten hot, 
there will be no danger of its being poisonous — if set away to cool, 
be sure that there is an opening in the center of the crust dotcn io 
the meat, for the escape of the steam and gases while cooling. The 
rising of the crust while baking, sometimes closes the opening in it, 
and the slow cooling, and confined gases, cause it to be unwholesome. 
This should be especially guarded against with (lU meat pies. Meat 
pies are those made entirely of meat and crust, while mince pics are 
made of minced meat, apples, fruit and spices. 

MEAT PIE. — Take cold turkey, chicken, or any cold meat chop- 
ped fine; season with salt, pepper and gravy; lay pie=crust around 
the edge of a platter, and cover the same; bake a nice brown in the 
oven. Time, | to | hour. 

PRESSED CHICKEN — Boil 2 or 3 chickens and use what is 
wanted for dinner — then take what is left and boil until it will drop 
from the bones easily. Remove bones, and let the liquor boil down 
if there is too much; then add the meat, and season with pepper and 
a little cinnamon. Put in a square tin to press. It is easily made, 
and is very nice for Sunday lunch. 

CHICKEN AND RICE. — Take fricasseed chicken and remove 
1he bones from the largest pieces, leaving the others in. Cover the 
bottom of a small pudding=dish with cold boiled rice, then jnit in a 
layer of the chicken, sprinkled with salt and ]oej)per; then more rice, 



154 POULTRY 

and so on until the dish is full. Have the last layer rice. Put in 
the gravy that is left, and cover the whole with the yolk of an egg 
well beaten. Set in the oven and bake until it is light brown. 
Time, f to 1 hour. 

CHICKEN SHORTCAKE.— Cut the meat from the largest pieces 
of cold stewed chicken and remove the bones (the wishbone and 
other small pieces may be left whole); heat, adding more gravy, if 
necessary, and when hot pour it on a shortcake, cut in pieces made as 
follows: Shoj'fcake. — Mix 2 teaspoons of bakiug powder with 2 cups 
of flour. Rub into it a small ^ cup of butter, and then add 1 cup of 
sweet milk. Bake in a quick oven in a thin sheet. 

CHiCKEN SUPREME.— First skin, then carefully cut the breast 
meat from 2 full grown chickens; divide each side of the breast meat 
into 2 long fillets — this will give 8 pieces, and is sufficient for a party 
of that number; flatten them by rolling with the rolling-pin until 
they are about an inch thick, then broil over a clear coal fire until 
they are thoroughly done and well browned; sprinkle with salt and 
white jjepper, \Aace on a hot platter, and spread with butter. Gar- 
nish with parsley, and serve with currant jelly, or any meat sauce 
preferred. These fillets can be stewed tender in a little water, and 
served with Bechamel sauce. The remainder of the fowls can be 
used for a stew, chicken pie, or chicken fricassee. 

CHICKEN TARTS. — Mince cold chicken very fine, and season 
with pepper and salt to taste. Boil 1 cup of milk with |- an onion 
and a blade of mace in it; when it is scalding hot, take out the onion 
and mace, and stir in a thickening made of 1 teaspoon of flour wet 
with c(.)ld milk. When it has boiled a few minutes, mix in 2 cups of 
chopped chicken. Have ready some rather large tarts made of puff^ 
paste, and put a spoonful of the mince in each. 

CHICKEN AND TOMATOES.— Prepare chicken as for a fricas- 
see, with a few slices of salt ijork and a small onion, sliced; cover 
them with water and let them simmer slowly; when nearly cooked 
add 4 medium-sized tomatoes, peeled and sliced, and a little salt and 
pepper, and cook ^ hour longer. Arrange the chicken on a platter 
with some toasted crackers, and pour the broth over the whole and 
serve. 

FRIED FOWL.— Cold roast or boiled fowl can be dipi^ed in bat- 
ter and fried. Make the batter of 4 heaping tablespoons of flour, 1 
egg, I cup of water, and 2 tablesj)oons of salad oil. Add the water to 
the flour gradually, stirring it smooth; then beat in the yolk of the 



POULTRY 155 

egg, with I teaspoon of salt, and just before yon want your batter, 
stir in the beaten white; some flcnir may require a little more water. 
Dip each j)iece of chicken in the batter, and fry a light brown. 

TO MAKE OLD FOWLS TENDER.— Take an old fowl and 
stew it from 2 to 4 hours according- to our directions for stewing; 
then roast it in the oven, basting frequently. It will make an old 
fowl 5 or 6 years old, tender and equal to a chicken. Try it. 

FOWLS RECHAUFFE {Rcheafe(l).—Cnt up a cold fowl, taking 
off the legs and wings, and dividing the fowl in pieces. Season bread 
crumbs with pepper and salt, and minced parsley; mix all together 
and lay over the j^ieces of fowl in a dripping-pan, and brown them in 
the oven. While that is taking place, make a gravy of l)utter and 
flour in | pint of water or broth; add a tablespoon of catsup and let 
it come to the boiling point; place the warmed fowl in a dish to 
serve, pour over it the hot gravy, and send to the table immediately. 
Good for breakfast. Time, about | hour. 

MINCED FOWL.— Cut the meat from the bones, and put them 
on to boil with the bits of skin which are left, and an onion, in 
enough water to cover them. When they have l)oiled until you have 
a cup of strong stock, strain and pour in a cup of hot milk, with pep- 
per and salt; then stir in 2 cups of minced fowl, and serve with chop- 
ped parsley sprinkled over it. 

STEAMED FOWL. — Place a fowl in a close steamer and cook 1 
hour. Then remove the steamer, rub well with salt, and stuiT as for 
baking; steam again until perfectly tender, then place it in a bakings 
pan, rub with flour and butter and place in the oven until brown, 
basting often with l)utter. Use some of the liquor in the steamer for 
gravy by adding it to the butter in the drip- 
ping pan; thicken the gravy with flour, and add 
the chopped giblets and a little celery salt. 
Time, 2 to 3 hours. 

GUINEA FOWLS.— They are better when 
a year old and under, for the old fowls are apt 
to ])e tough and dry. Guinea fowls are cooked 
in various ways in the same manner as the com- 
mon domestic fowls. 




GUINEA FOWL. 



GIBLETS. — These are the liver, heart and gizzard of fowls, with 
the feet, and long, bony part of the legs, and the tips of the wings. 
Carefully cut away the gall sack from the liver, peel the hard lining 



156 POULTRY 

from the inside of the gizzard, and remove the veins, arteries and en- 
veloping membranes from the heart; throw them in cold water and 
wash well. Boil them £ hour in slightly salted water sufficient to 
cover them. Take them up, cut in small pieces, or chop, thicken 
and season the gravy and return the giblets to reheat; then serve as 
giblets stewed. Or they may be baked in 2 crusts as "giblet pie." 
Giblets are also chopped, added to the gravies, and served with the 
fowls they were taken from. Scald and scrape the legs and feet for 
the soup kettle — they are rich in gelatine. 

ROAST DUCK. — Choose ducks that are plump, and have yellow- 
ish feet; dress like other poultry, taking care to get off all the down. 
Fill the body with seasoned dressing, sew up, and bake or roast, bast- 
ing often. Time, 20 to 40 minutes. They are often parboiled before 
being baked, as that lessens the strong taste. They can also be 
stuffed with apples which absorb the strong taste and should not be 
eaten on that account. Celery should be served with roast duck, and 
any of the piquant meat sauces liked best. 

Wild ducks are cooked in the same way as the domestic variety, 
but if the bones are solid and show indications of age, they are better 
stewed, or boiled and made into side dishes. 

GEESE.— Geese are called green until they are 4 or 5 months 
old. They are dressed, singed, trussed, and roasted in the same way 
as chicken, carefully basting them while baking or roasting. Cook 
until they are thoroughly browned on both sides, and the English 
sauce for them is made of gooseberries, as their name indicates. 
The remains of baked green goose is made into entrees, side dishes, 
hashes, etc., in the same way that other cold poultry is re=warmed. 
Time, 1 to 1| hours according to size. 

ROAST GOOSE. — It is better to keep the goose a few days after 
coming from the market, but do not let it come to the slightest taint. 
Pluck, singe, draw, and wash thoroughly; then fill the cavity with a 
dressing made with sage and onions, if liked, or a plain bread and 
butter filling may be used. Sew up, and bake or roast in a moderate 
oven until a golden brown on both sides. Baste often; use butter 
and flour when nearly done. The goose is sometimes parboiled be- 
fore baking. The oil which runs out will be too strong for gravy. 
Serve apple sauce with the goose. Time, if small, 1^ hours; if large, 
1| hours. 

Goose Stuffing (Soijer^s). — Take 4 apples, peeled and cored, 4 on- 
ions, a little sage and thyme; stew until soft, then pulp through a 
sieve; add a sufficient amount of mashed potato to fill the bird. The 
stuffing should be well seasoned with salt and pepper. 



POULTRY 157 

BOILED TURKEY. — Draw and clean the turkey, then bone and 
nearly fill the inside with veal force-meat; thrust a trimmed boiled 
tongue down the middle of the force=meat, and sew up the turkey 
securely; truss and put it as near as ijossible in the original shape. 
Sew it up in a buttered cloth, and boil very gently to prevent it from 
bursting. Time, 3 to 4 hours, according to the size. To carve, cut 
across the breast, so as to give each person a slice composed of equal 
parts of tongue, turkey and force=meat. Turkeys dressed in this 
fashion, covered with Bechamel sauce, and garnished with aspic 
jelly, form an elegant dish for ball suppers. 

BONED TURKEY, BOILED.— Chop finely about a pound of 
veal, and | jDound of salt pork; roll 3 crackers, add 2 eggs well 
beaten, with a little chopped parsley; salt and pepper to taste; mix, 
and fill the turkey, not crowding it. Sew it up and roll in a cloth; 
boil from 3 to 4 hours, then press by putting it on a platter, turn 
another platter over it, and place a weight on the upper platter, until 
cold. Take a quart of the broth in which the turkey was boiled, add 
an ounce of gelatine which has been soaked in a little cold water, and 
the juice of a lemon; place it in a dish about an inch deep; when 
solid, cut ^ of it in inch squares to lay over the top of the turkey; 
beat the other half with a fork and place around the turkey. Sau- 
sage meat of fresh pork, highly seasoned, may be used for filling, in- 
stead of the veal and salt pork. 

ROAST TURKEY.— After drawing the turkey, stuff it with 
bread, oysters, or any other stuffing desired; then sew it up, truss, 
and rub with butter, and sprinkle on pepper, salt and flour. Put it 
in to roast, having the oven hot at first; then reduce the heat and 
put 2 cups of water in the dripping pan. Baste frequently, and each 
time dredge on salt and flour. It should be cooked thoroughly, roast- 
ing about 20 minutes to the pound, and 20 minutes extra. Cran- 
berry sauce and currant jelly are the best things to serve with roast 
turkey. 

Giblet Gravy can be made for turkey by boiling the giblets till 
very tender (begin to boil them early); then chop fine, and add salt, 
pepi)er, and sufficient flour to thicken. When the turkey is removed' 
from the pan, pour on the giblets sufficient gravy from the pan, and 
boil it. Make an ordinary gravy with the balance left in the pan, as 
some do not like giblet gravy. 

TURKEY CHEESE. — This is an excellent way to cook an old 
turkey too tough for roasting. Have it dressed in the usual way, and 
let it hang in the larder for a few days if the weather is cold. Singe, 



158 GAME 

wash, and cut it in small pieces as for a fricassee of chicken; put it 
in the dinner put with just cold water enough to cover it, put on the 
fire, and let it come to boiling; then add a tablespoon of salt and set 
the kettle on the back of the range, where it will gently sinuner until 
the meat will separate from the bones. At this stage, remove the 
kettle from the fire, take out the turkey into a pan or deep earthen 
dish, remove all the bones, cut the larger pieces of meat into smaller 
portions, season with more salt, if needed, add pepper and herbs, if 
liked; then pour the liquor from the kettle over it, and let it get cold 
before using it. 

TURKEY RAGOUT — Cut all the meat left from roast turkey, in 
as large pieces as it will allow. Break up the bones, put them in a 
stew=pan, with cold water to cover them, boil an hour, strain out the 
bones; season the liquid with pepper, salt, a little chopped celery or 
celery salt; stir in a thickening made of a spoonful of flour rubbed 
smooth in a little cold milk, ^ a cup of milk, and butter the size of 
an egg. Stir over the fire constantly until thick as cream put in the 
cold turkey, simmer five minutes and serve. 

A GOOD BREAKFAST DISH.— A fine breakfast dish can be 
made by frying the livers of chickens or turkeys with a few thin 
slices of bacon. Cut the liver and bacon very thin; season with pep- 
per and salt. 



GAME. 

Game is young if the bones of the legs and wings break easily, 
and if the skin is tender. 

All water birds should be eaten as fresh as possible, as their flesh 
is oily, and soon becomes rank. If there is a large quantity of game 
on hand at one time, it will be well to cook the young game first, and 
the old, 1 or 2 days later, as old birds will keep longer than young 
ones. Old birds also need longer cooking. Young game cooks 
rather more quickly than poultry, and the flavor is best retained by 
cooking it i^lainly. The rule is, that while dark meated game may 
be rare, white meated game should be well done. 

Game, like all meat, should not be washed, unless it is really 
needed, and should never be left in the water, because, as we have 
elsewhere explained, the water will draw out the juices. 

Game drawn with care only needs wiping. It is best o dry-pick 
birds, using care, and taking off all the feathers which can be readily 



GAME 159 

removed; then plunge into boiling water, skin, draw, and finally 
wipe carefully. Wild ducks and geese, however, are so oily that 
they should be washed with warm water and soap, as anything less 
effectual will not cleanse them properly. The objectionable flavor of 
wild ducks comes from the oil in the skin; if it is very strong, they 
can be skinned; then spread with butter, dredge thickly with Hour, 
and put in a very quick oven to roast. 

The directions for " drawing" and "' trussing" given for poultry, 
will apply equally well for wild fowls. 

Overcoming the Wild Flavor.— It is sometimes desired to overcome 
the wild flavor in the large birds, as it is disliked by some people. 
There are various ways to do this: (1) Take a lemon, take otf the 
peel, and lay it inside; renew it every 10 or 12 hours, and continue 
for 1 or 2 days. From most game this will absorb the unpleasant 
flavors. (Probably the best plan.) (2) Ducks, geese, prairie chick- 
ens, pheasants, etc., may lie for 10 or 12 hours in salt and water. 
(3) They may be put in soda and water for 2 or 3 hours. (4) Par- 
boil in water containing 1 or 2 onions. 

Restoring Tainted Game.— If game becomes slightly tainted, it 
should at once be picked clean and put into milk for a full day (24 
hours) keeping it entirely covered; this will sweeten it, and it should 
be cooked at once. 

Most game is kept as long as it can be without becoming tainted, 
as it is thought the flavor is thereby developed. 

Game is less fat than butcher's meat, and is generally considered 
very nourishing; it is easy of digestion and is valued in the sick- 
room. This does not apply to wild fowl, however, which have close, 
firm and rather oily flesh, and are, therefore, unsuited to weak stom- 
achs. 

The garnishes for the larger game, like wild ducks, etc., are pars- 
ley, slices of orange or lemon, cranberry or apple sauce; while for 
small game, the most common are j)arsley, toast, currant jelly, and 
slices of lemon. Currant, grape, or any acid jelly, i^ suitable to serve 
with game. 

Cranes, Plovers, Snipes, Herons, Prairie Chickens, Quails, Pigeons, Wood= 
cocks, and all small game, are cooked in much the same way as spring 
or broiler chicken — that is, if the game is young, which will be known 
by the tenderness of the bones, and the freshness of the feet. They 
can be broiled, fricasseed, stewed, etc., in the same manner as poul- 
try. 

Old game should be parboiled before roasting, as that is the bet- 
ter way of cooking old game or poultry. 



160 



GAME 




WILD DUCK. 



BLACKBIRD PIE.— Take 1 doz. blackbirds, reedbirds or oth- 
er small game; skin and draw them, cutting off the heads and feet. 
Put a bit of bread, buttered, peppered, and salted, into the body of 
each bird; place them in a pndding^dish with thin slices of cold, boil- 
ed, fat salt j)ork; add a little cold water, cover them with rich pie 
crust ^ inch thick, and bake thoroughly in a moderate oven. Time, 
30 to 40 minutes. 

WILD DUCK. — Pick the ducks carefully, and thoroughly singe 
off the down, then rub them with a coarse cloth. Split them open 
down the back, wash clean, and dry 
them with a cloth; pound flat with 
the potato=masher, or rolling=i)in, and 
broil; turn often on the fire, which 
must be clear and bright. Have a 
little wisp, made of a bit of linen, tied 
on a clean stick, and rub them with 
melted butter every time you turn 
them. Serve hot. Caiivas-hdck chicks 
should be served on hot plates, and eaten as soon as i^ossible after be- 
ing taken from the fire. Serve with celery mayonnaise. 

PARTRIDGES. — Boned. — Bone the birds, and lard with thin 
slices of salt pork; stuff with oysters, roll up and tie; j^lace in a drip- 
ping pan with a little hot water and butter; bake in a moderately hot 
oven until well browned, basting often. Serve with mushroom sauce 
and mashed potatoes and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. 
Time, about ^ hour. 

Roast Partridges,— Pick, draw, and wipe clean; then fill with tur- 
key dressing; truss them in shape 
and put in the dripping-pan with 
a little water; lay on the birds 
thin slices of fat salt pork. Roast 
about an hour, basting often; when 
done thicken the water in the pan, 
add more seasoning if needed, 
f)lace the partridges on a hot plat- 
ter, and pour the gravy around 
them, or send it to the table in the 
gravy boat, with a garnish of pars- 
ley around the birds on the platter. 

PIGEONS.— i?oos/. — These to be good should be cooked soon af- 
ter being killed, and should be dressed and drawn immediately. 




PARTlilDGE. 



GAME 



161 



Wash them thoroughly and wipe them dry ; spread a lump of butter 
on a bit of bread and jjlace it in the cavity of each bird; truss them 
into shape, cover the bottom of the baking-pan with very thin slices 
of salt pork, place the pigeons in the pan with the backs down, and 
put a little water in the pan; roast in a hot oven until they are done, 
and of a nice brown color; they should be basted often. Time, about 
20 to 30 minutes. Ga)'»ts}i the pigeons with the bits of pork, slices 
of lemon and parsley. Make a gravy in the pan, and send it to the 
table in a gravy boat, with the pigeons. The juice of a lemon 
dripped over the birds after they are on the x^latter adds to their deli- 
cacy. 

Pigeon Pie — Line a pie dish with thin slices of fat bacon, place 
on this the pigeons cut in quarters, three pigeons to a pie. Fill the 
interstices with veal taken from the loin or leg (of course uncooked); 
season with f)epper aiid salt, and proceed as to the crust in the same 
way as for other meat pies. Time, about 1^ hours. 

Squabs (Young Pigeons). — Dress in the same manner as for "broil- 
er'' chicken; split down the back, pound flat with the rolling-pin, 
butter the broiling- iron, and cook over clear coals until a delicate 
browm, turning often. Sx:)rinkle with a little salt and pepper wdien 
done, and spread with butter, and keep Lot on the top shelf of the 
oven until ready to set on the table. Time, 4 to G minutes. 

PLOVER. — Fricassee. — Dress, wash clean, and put to stew in 
just water to cover them; boil slowly for an hour, then add a little 
salt, and boil the water out rapidly, to brown the birds in the kettle; 
watch that they do not burn. Take out, put bits of butter on the 
birds and keep hot. Make a l^rown 
gravy in the kettle, pour over tht 
birds, and send to the table. 

Fried Plover.— Skin the birds 
serving only the breast and legs- 
remainder can go into the soup=kettle 
— wash and wipe them dry; roll in 
flour or bread crumbs, put in a hot 
well buttered frying=pan and fry until 
nicely browned on both sides; place on 
a hot platter, spread with butter, and 
sjirinkle with a little salt and pepper, 
and keep the platter hot wdiile making 
a gravy 

pint of hot water. Mix a little cold water with a tablespoon of corn^^ 
starch, stir rapidly until it thickens, season with salt and pepper, and 
11 



re- 
-the 




Add more butter for the gravy, to that in the pan, and ^ 




162 GAME 

pour it over the l)irds. Serve with wild grape jelly, or some nice 
meat sauce. 

PRAIRIE CHICKEN. — Cut out the breasts, cut each one in two, 
rub with butter, broil, season with salt and pepper, and serve on but- 
tered toast; garnish with currant jelly. If for breakfast, serve on 
fried mush. The balance, except the breast, is apt to be tough, and 
is best if first parboiled; then rub with butter and broil as above. 
They are often si^lit open at the back, rubbed with butter and broiled, 
but we think the above the best way. 

QUAIL. ^ Broiled. ^V'lck, draw, 
and sjilit down the back, then wash 
and wipe dry; pound flat with the roll- 
i ng pin, or a flat iron coveredwith a 
cloth; broil slowly, and baste often 
with butter. Serve on toasted slices 
of bread, richly buttered. Time, 4 to 
6 minutes. 

QUAIL. 

QUAIL PIE. — Take 8 or 10 quails, cut each in two, and lay in 
salt water for 2 hours; then put them in a sauce pan with 1 large 
onion, 2 chili peppers, some parsley, cut fine, salt and black jDepper; 
cover with water, and stew until tender; then add ^ lb. butter, 2 
tablespoons flour, and simmer for a few minutes; season with a little 
lemon juice and mushroom catsup. Place in a pan, cover with puff 
paste, and bake. Time, about 1 hour. 

SMALL BIRDS.— A method of treating small birds which is 
liked by many, is to halve sweet potatoes lengthwise, scoop out a 
depression large enough to receive half a bird, or if very small, a 
whole one. Put in the dressed bird, season with pepper, salt and 
butter, put on the other half of the potato, tie it, and bake till soft. 
Serve in the jDotatoes; garnish with green leaf. Reedbirds, etc., are 
nice this way. Small birds can also l)e fried in hot fat, or roasted, 
broiled or stewed. 

SNIPE — Treat the same as Woodcocks. 

WOODCOCK.— Pick the birds, draw the trail, and wipe clean. 
Tie the legs, remove the skin from the head, turn the head under the 
wing and tie, also tying a thin slice of bacon on the breast. Fry in 
hot lard 2 or 3 minutes. Season, and serve on toast, with currant 
jelly. If preferred, it can be prepared the same M-ay and roasted in 
the oven. Time, about ^ hour, 



GAME 



163 




Salmis of Woodcock. — This is made of cold roast woodcock. Cut 
the birds into small neat pieces to serve, and keep the remainder — all 
the bones and trimmings — for the sou^^ kettle. Simmer until the 
meat comes off the bones, with herbs, a little salt and pepper. Add 
also any gravy left from the day before. Strain through a colander, 
and return to the kettle. Thicken with a little corn starch and put 
in the pieces of woodcock to get hot in the soup. There should be 
about enough of the soup for a plenty of good gravy. Croutons, or 
strips of toasted bread can be laid around the edge of the i^latter, 
with sprigs of parsley or chives. 

GROUSE.- Cook same as "Prairie 
Chicken." Or the breast and legs can ,: 
be larded; then rub with butter, sprinkle 
on pepper and salt, dredge with flour, 
and roast in the oven. A bread sauce 
is best served with it. 

RABBITS.— Jack=rabbit is the term 
usually applied to the wild rabbit of the 
United States. They are plentiful in 
some parts of the country, and in the 
fall, when th6 boys bring them in from 

gunning excursions, they are fat and most delicious, cooked in 
various ways, either roasted, fried or boiled, and they make a fine 
soup or p)ot pie. If the bones are strong and the skin tough, they 
are old, and are better boiled whole and served with white or cream 
sauce. If young, the skin is tender and the ears tear easily, in which 
case they are nice cut in x)ieces, pounded flat and broiled over a clear 
fire in the same way as chickens are broiled. They can be roasted 
whole, if young, after being filled with a bread and butter dressing, 
with a large slice of fat salt pork spread over the rabbit, and it should 
be frequently basted. If large, it should 
be in the hot oven from 1^ to 2 hours, and 
well browned, and served with a brown 
gravy made in the dripi)ing=pan after the 
meat is put on the platter. 

OPOSSUM.- Scald like a hog, clean, 
and expose to a frosty air about 2 days. 
Then parboil, and bake like pigs' meat, in 
a moderate oven, basting often. Peel and 
split sweet potatoes and place them in the 
pan to bake with the meat. 




164 GAME 

SQUIRRELS. — The old ones may be known by their greater size, 
and by the greater strength of the bones. After dressing and clean- 
ing, they are cut in quarters; those that are old are better stewed. 
Put them over the fire in a kettle, with water enough to cover them; 
stew gently until the meat starts from the bones, then season with 
salt, pei^per, and herbs, if liked; add a little corn=starch for thicken- 
ing, with a lump of butter. The young squirrels can be cut in quar- 
ters, and either broiled or fried, as you would chickens. 

Squirrel Pie. — Clean, and soak ^ hour in salt water; take out and 
stew with a little salt pork until half done. Line the sides of the 
dish with x^astry, lay in the squirrel, put in the gravy, put on an 
upper crust, cut a cross in it to let out the steam and gases, and 
bake. Time, about |- hour. 

BUFFALO AND BEAR.— Bear and 

buffalo meat is either baked, boiled, fried 
or broiled, in the same ways as beef. 

RACCOONS AND WOODCHUCKS.— 

Raccoons and woodchucks, are stewed or 

baked, and served after the manner of ^^'^^^^^^^^'^^"^v^^^^^^^ 

pigs' meat, and are considered a delicacy "' ' ^^ 

by hunters. Old animals can be parboiled 

before cooking — with young ones it is not necessary. 

VENISON. — Venison is easily digested. As the hairs often 
cling to the meat, it should be cleaned carefully before cooking. The 
best cuts for steaks or roasting come from the loin or saddle. The 
rules given for cooking beef or mutton apply equally to venison. 
Stew the tougher parts. Currant jelly is considered the best' thing 
to serve with venison, or garnish with slices of lemon. 

Venison Steaks. — Cut venison steaks in suitable pieces for serving; 
heat \ of a lb. of butter in your frying pan; season the steaks with 
salt and pepper, then dip them in wheat flour or rolled cracker 
crumbs, and fry them a nice brown on l^oth sides. When done, set 
them in the oven with a tin over, to keep them warm, while you pre- 
pare gravy, as follows: Dredge a large tablespoon of flour into the 
butter in the pan, and stir until it is brown, without burning; put in 
a teacup of boiling water, with a teaspoon of currant jelly dissolved 
into it. Stir briskly for a few minutes, then strain the gravy over 
the meat and serve at once. 




CUTTING UP AND CURING 
MEATS. 




fT is very desirable for every housekeeper to know the •location 
and names of the different parts of meat, and many families 
occasionally cut up and cure animals for their own use, and so 
in this chapter we will give such information on these subjects 
as will meet the requirements of our readers. Before corning meat 
hang it 1 or 2 da)^s after it is killed. 

BEEF. 

1. Rump. — Uned for corned beef, 
stews and steaks. 

2. Aitclibone. — Used for stews and 
pot'roasts. 

3. Bound or Buttock. — Used for 
stews, boilin<r, pot-rtJasts, or steaks. 
The lower part is good to work up in 
Hamburg steaks and curry of beef. 

■1. Hock. — Best for soup or stews. 

5. Shin or Leg. — Used for soup, 
stewing or hash. 

6. Shin. — Used for soup or cheap 
stews. 

7. Clod. — Used for soup, stock, 
stews, sausages, etc. 

8. Neck or Sticking Piece. — Used same as ch)d. 

9. Shoulde)- Clod. — Used for stews, pot=roasts, hashes, 
etc. 

10. Brisket. — Used for soups, stews, corned and spiced 
beef. 

11. Thin Flank. — Used for stews or for corned beef or 
dried beef. 

12. Thick Flank. — Suitable for corned beef, boiling, 
stews, or pressed beef. 

13. Sirloin. — Used for sirloin or po/'^cr house steaks or 
choice roasts. The tip is an extra fine roast, and should have 
3 but is sometimes cut up with 2 ribs. 

1-4. Fore Bib. — The 5 ribs nearest the sirloin are the best: 
it makes fine roasting pieces, or steaks; the bones are often 
taken out and the meat rolled, when the bones can be used for 
soup. 

is. Middle Bibs. — Usually roasted. 

16. Chvck Bibs. — Used for stews and steaks and rcjasts of 
second quality. 

17. Cheek. — Used for soups or stews. 

Other parts used are: (18) TJie B)-ciiiis which, 
when v/ell soaked, can be stewed, fried, scalloped or made into cro- 
quettes. (19) Ox'tail, used for soups and stews. (20) Cow-heels, 

165 




166 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 

wliich make as good jelly as calves' feet, and what remains of them 
is good eating; they also make good soui3. (21) The Heart, which 
can be stuffed, braised or roasted, but although economical it is 
rather indigestible. (22) The Licer. — It can be boiled or fried and 
is very nutritious and cheap. The food known as "foggots " is made 
of the liver and lights of sheep and bullocks mixed with some fat. 
(23) T]ie Kidneys, used for stewing, pies or puddings. They are 
cheaper than the kidneys of young animals, but difficult of diges- 
tion. They need light cooking, as they are apt to dry uj) when 
exposed to a high temperature. (24) TJie Tongue is boiled and 
braised, either fresh or salted. It can be bought either way. (25) 
Tripe. — This is easily digested, but is not very nutritious. (26) 
Sweetbreads — This in full grown animals consists of the pancreas, 
and is not equal to the thymus gland of the calf. (27) Suet. — That 
which surrounds the kidneys is the firmest and best. (28) The 
Spleen or Milt of bullock, sheep and pig is sold for food. It is gen- 
erally stuffed and roasted, or stewed or boiled for stock. (29) The 
Fillet lies under the rump and loin and weighs 6 or 8 lbs. 

Tlie Liglds are the lungs. Tlie Pluck is the lights, liver and 
heart. 

It is well to remember that any part of an animal which is much 
exercised is tougher than parts which are exercised little or none, 

VEAL. 

1. Head. — Used for soup or jelly. Calves' 
brains are served as an entree. 

2. Neck. — Used for stews or soup. 

3. Knvekie. — Best stewed or boiled; occasion- 
ally roasted. 

4. Feet. — Used for jelly making; occasionally 
stewed or fried. 

.5. Loin. — Prime roasting joint or for cutlets. 

6. Chuinj) end of Loin. — Used for roasting or 
cutlets. 

7. Fillet. — The most economical roasting joint, 
and furnishes the best cutlets. 

8. Knuckle. — This is cheap and is best used 
for stewing, boiling or for stock. 

9. Flank. — Used for stews. 

10. Breast. — Best stewed; sometimes roasted. Tliis part furnishes veal ten- 
dons served as an entree. 

11 and 12. Shoulder or Bladehone.—lJt^ed sometimes for roasting and some- 
times for cutlets. 

13. Rib. — Used for small roasting joint or for chops. 

llr. Sweetbreads. — These are found above Fig. 14 and consist of the thi/rnKS 
gland found on both sides of the windpipe. The stomach sweetbreads are located 
further along near the stomach. 

Other parts used are: (15) The Heart which is more digestible 
than bullock's heart and is liked by many. (16) Liver. — This is 
very lean, and is usually cooked Avith some of the inside fat or with 




CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 



1(17 




bacon. (17) Kidneij. — This is more delicate than beef kidney, and 
is preferred to it. (18) Sucf. — Veal suet is more delicate than beef 
suet, and may advantageously be substituted for that in puddings 
and for all purposes. 

PORK. 

1. Feet. — Used for jiickle or jelly; 
occasionallv boiled, or boned and stuff- 
ed. 

2. Ham or Leg. — Used for roasting, 
boiling or frying; the most economical 
piece to buy, 

3. Bacon. — Generally cured. 

4. Hock. — Best stewed or boiled. 

5. Shoithlev. — Smoke, or cut steaks 
from this. 

6. Lower Neck: — Used for sausages 
or lard. 

7. Head, — Can be boiled or made into brawn; the cheek 
can be made into smoked jowls, and the snout boiled. 

8. Shoitlder Top. — Used for spare ribs, steak or sausage. 

9. Fore Loin. — Usually roasted. 
10. Loin. — The best roasting joint; chops are also ciit 

from it. 

Other parts are: (11) Pig's Fry. — This con- 
sists of the liver, sweetbreads and some of the 
inside fat. (12) The Harslet, consisting of the 
liver, lights and heart. (13) The CJn'ne; this is 
the 2 loins unseparated from the backbone. ( 14 ) 
Lard; this has a lower melting point than beef or 
mutton fat, and the lower the heat at which it is 
melted the smoother it is. 

TO CUT UP PORK.— Have the hog laid on 
his back on a clean bench; cut otf the head close 
to the base. If large there will come otf a considerable collar be- 
tween the head and shoulders, which, pickled or dried, is useful for 
cooking with vegetables. Separate the jowl from the face at the nat- 
ural joint; open the skull lengthwise and take out the brains — es- 
teemed a luxury. Then, with a sharp knife, j-emove the backbone 
the whole length; then the long strip of fat underlying it, leaving 
about 1 inch of fat covering the spinal colunni. Take out the leaf 
lard, and the tenderloin — a fishy shaped piece of flesh. Now cut out 
the middle or sides, leaving the shoulders s'quare shaped and the 
hams pointed or rounded as desired. The spare ribs are usually 
wholly removed from the sides, with but little meat adhering. It is 
the sides of young hogs, cured as hams, that bear the name of breal:- 
fast bacon. The sausage meat comes chiefly in strips from the back- 
bone, part of which may also l)e used as steak. The lean trinnnin<>-s 




168 



CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 



from about the joints are used for sausage. The chines are smoked 
with the jowls and used in late winter and spring. The feet should 
be heated over the fire until the hoofs can be easily removed; then 
scraf)e clean, and, after being a few minutes in hot water, scrape and 
wash carefully, and they will be ready to cook. The fat from the 
intestines is all removed; use that which sticks to the larger intes- 
tines for soap grease. 

Sometimes the smaller intestines are used for sausage cases. Try 
up all flabby piecea for lard. The sweetbreads, liver, kidneys and 
heart are used for boiling. When meat is to be pickled it should be 
dusted lightly with saltpetre, sprinkled with salt, and allowed to 
drain 24 hours; then plunge it into pickle, and keep it under weight. 
It is good policy to pickle a portion of the sides. 

Pork is cured for the market in different ways; the fat sides are taken from 
the ribs, cut in pieces, packed in barrels with layers of salt, and then covered with 
strong brine, in which it is kept until retailed from the barrels. Sometimes the 
sides are well cured iu the brine, then hung, dried, and afterwards packed in boxes 
with dry salt. At the South this is called bacon, and smoked bacon if it has been 
hung in a smoke=house. Pig meat is treated in the latter way, and makes a deli- 
cate meat called breakfast bacon. The hams, shoulders and cheeks of pork are 
pickled in brine for a certain length of time, then are taken from the pickle, and 
either packed dry in salt, or smoked and packed in a manner to best preserve 
them. One of the best ways of keeping hams in the country, is to dry the hams 
well in a smoke-house, then rub them well with fine salt and sugar, roll up well in 
newspapers, and pack in barrels, filling as you go with clean wood ashes. 

MUTTON AND LAMB. 

1. Loin, chump end. — Used for roasting or chops; 
chump chops are cut nearest the tail where there is 
the most bone. 

2. Loin. — The best roasting joint. 

3. Back. — Used for roasting, boiling, or for mut- 
ton cutlets. 

4. Shoulder. — Used for roasting or for stuffing; 
is fatter and not so economical as the leg, but is pre- 
ferred by many. 

.5. Neck. — Used for stews. 

6. Head. — This makes excellent broth but is not 
much used by the well=to=do classes. 

7. Shank. — Suitable for stews or soups. 

8. i^ee^.— Used for jelly. 

9. Hock. — Suitable for stews or soup. 

10. Leg. — Used for roasts or chops; rhutton steaks are cut from the leg; usu- 
ally considered the most economical piece to buy. 

11. Breast. — Suitable for stewing or boiling; often economical but too fat for 
some. 

Other parts are: (12) The Chine, which consists of the 2 loins 
unseparated from the backbone. (13) The Saddle, which consists of 
2 loins and 2 legs undivided. (14) The Herirt, which is best roasted, 
(15) TJie Licer, which can be fried or made into soup. (16) The 
Kidnei), which can be broiled or stewed (often sold with the loin). 
(17) Mutton Suet. — This is not so good as beef suet for puddings, 
etc. 




CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 



169 




LAMB. — When very large it is cut into the same joints as mut- 
ton; when small it is simply cut into quarters. Lamh^s Sweetbreads 
are considered a delicacy. LarnVs Fry consists of the liver, the 
sweetbreads, and some of the inside fat or leaf of the heart. 
Lamb's Kidney, Head and Feet are also eaten. Lamb's kidneys 
cooked a little while are tender, but long cooking toughens them. 
Many people prefer the fore quarters, but the leg is the most eco- 
nomical part to buy. 

VENISON. 

1. Loin or Haunch. — Used for steaks, roasts and 
stews; also for making smoked venison; the ribs can 
be used for soup. 

2. Fore Loin. — Good for roasts or steaks. 

3. Shoulder. — Usually roasted, or boned, stuffed, 
and then roasted or baked. 

4. Neck or Scrag. — Used for soup or stews. 

5. 3reast. — Used for stews or baking. 
The best and sweetest venison comes from a 

female deer about 4 years old; doe venison (in season 
from October to December) is not equal to buck 
venison — (in season from June to October 1st). The 
haunch is the prime joint, though the shoulders are 
much esteemed. Venison requires more care in the 
killing, preserving and dressing than any other meat. 
As soon as it is cut up it should be taken into a cool, 
dry larder, dried with a cloth, and hung in an airy 
place. If it is to be kept some time, dust dry ginger and pepper yver it to keep 
off flies; keep it as long as it is possible to preserve it untainted. If it should in- 
advertently become musty, first wash it with lukewarm vinegar and water, and 
afterwards with lukewarm milk and water, and then dry it perfectly with a cloth, 
and flour it. 

PICKLE FOR MEAT.— Make 8 gallons of brine strong enough 
to float an egg, add 2 lbs. of brown sugar, and 1 quart of molasses, 
and 4 oz. saltpetre; boil and skim clean, and pour cold on the meat. 
Meat intended for smoking should remain in pickle about 4 weeks. 
This pickle can be boiled over, and with a fresh cup of sugar and 
salt, used all summer. Some persons use as much soda as saltpetre; 
it will correct acidity, but we think impairs the meat. 

Note. — In salting or pickling beef or pork for family consumption, it not be- 
ing generally required to be kept for a great length of time, less salt and more of 
other matters better adapted to retain the mellowness in meat may be used than 
could be adopted by those who cure large quantities for shipment. Sugar is well 
known to possess the preserving principle to a large degree without the pungency 
and stringency of salt. It acts without contracting the fibers of the meat, and 
therefore does not impair its mellowness, but when used in sufficiently large quan- 
tities for preserving effect it imparts a flavor not agreeable to many people. It 
may be used with salt, however, to great advantage in about the proportion of 1 
part by weight of sugar to 4 parts of the mixture, and now that sugar is so much 
cheaper than formerly it may be more commonly used. 

MEAT PICKLE. — Take of moist sugar, 2 lbs., common salt, 4 
lbs., saltpetre, ^ lb., fresh ground allspice, 2 oz.; water 6 to 8 quarts. 



170 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 

Dissolve. Used to pickle meat, to which it imparts a fine red color, 
and a superior flavor. 

TO CURE MEAT.— To 1 gallon of water add 1^ lbs. salt, ^ lb. of 
sugar, ^ oz. saltpetre, | oz. potash. Make any quantity desired, j)re- 
serving these proportions. Boil these together until all the dirt from 
the sugar rises to the toj) and is skimmed off; then throw it into a 
tub to cool, and when cold pour it over the beef and pork to remain 
the usual time, say 4 or 5 weeks. The meat must be well covered 
with pickle and should not be put down for at least 2 days after kill- 
ing, during which time it should be slightly sprinkled with salt- 
petre, which removes all surface blood, etc., leaving the meat fresh 
and clean. If this recipe is tried it will never be abandoned — 
nothing surpasses it. 

CURING BEEF AND HAM.— For beef use lbs. salt, 1 oz. salt- 
petre, 4 oz. New Orleans sugar, | gallon sorghum molasses, 3| gal. 
water; boil and skim the mixture; when cold, pour it over the meat, 
and if the latter is bloody pour off the brine, scald it, and when cold 
pour over the meat again. If the meat is a ham or shoulder to be 
smoked, it should lie in the brine 20 to 30 days, and then be hung up 
to smoke. Beef to be dried should be treated in the same way, but 
corned beef lies in the brine until it is used up. 

HAMS, TO CURE.- To each green ham of 18 lbs. use 1 dessert- 
spoon of saltpeter, I lb. of brown sugar applied to the fleshy side of 
the ham and about the hock; cover the fleshy side with fine salt ^ 
inch thick, and pack away in tubs; let remain from 3 to 6 weeks, ac- 
cording to size. Before smoking, rub ofl^ any salt that may remain 
on the ham, and cover well with ground pej^per, particularly about 
the bone and hock, hang up and drain for 2 days; smoke with green 
wood for 8 weeks, or until the rind assumes a light chestnut color. 
The pepper is an effectual preventive of the fly. (An extra recipe.) 

A Southern Rule for Curing Meat. — For 250 lbs. of beef or hams and 
shoulders, use IG lbs. salt, 8 gal. water, 4 oz. saltpetre, 2 quarts mo- 
lasses, 1 tablespoon soda; mix and dissolve. For salting beef, first 
cut it into suitable pieces and pack in a clean barrel as closely as 
can be pressed in by the hand; put it in even layers. When all the 
meat is packed place on top 4 sticks crossed, and lay on them a clean 
stone heavy enough to keep the meat under the brine. Pack hams 
the same way, and after 30 days remove from the brine and smoke. 

WESTPHALIAN HAMS.— The famous Westphalian hams are 
cured thus: First rub with dry salt, and then drain 24 hours. Take 



CUTTING UP AND CUKING MEATS 171 

4 quarts salt, 3 lbs. brown sugar, 1 lb. saltpetre, 4 oz. salprunella, 4 
oz. juniper berries; bruise, mix well, boil in 6 quarts of water, cool 
and skim. Take the hams from the salt, wijje dry, pour over the 
IDickle, and rub well into the meat. Then smoke a little every day 
for 3 months until completely dry, when they will keep sound and 
improve in flavor for years. Hams shrink, in smoking about 10% in 
weight, while pickled or salted pork gains about 10%. 

SUGAR CURING HAMS {English Becipc).— As soon as the 
meat conies from the butcher's hand rub it thoroughly with salt; 
repeat this 4 days, keeping the meat where it can drain. The fourth 
day rub it with saltpetre and a handful of salt, allowing 1 lb. of salt- 
petre to 70 lbs. of meat. Now mi.x 1 lb. of brown sugar, and 1 lb. of 
molasses; rub it over the ham every day for a fortnight, and then 
smoke with hickory chips or cobs. Hams should be hung highest in 
meat houses, because there they are less liable to the attacks of 
insects. 

TO KEEP CURED HAM. — A simple way is by packing closely 
in a stone jar, (after taking off the rind and cutting in slices) and 
then exclude the air by pouring over enough melted lard to cover 
them; they will keep this way several months. When some is taken 
out melt the lard and pour on again, to protect the balance. 

PICKLE FOR CORNED BEEF.-(l) Use 1 gal. water, 1^ lbs. 
salt, ^ lb. brown sugar, | oz. saltpetre, ^ oz. potash; use same projoor- 
tions for any quantity; boil all together in an iron kettle, skim and 
strain; put into the pickle tub, and when cold put in the meat, hav- 
ing the pickle cover it, and weighting it down with clean stones. (2) 
For 100 lbs. of beef use 8 lbs. fine salt, 4 lbs. brown sugar, 4 oz. sal- 
eratus, 2 oz. saltpetre, and mix well; put a layer of this in the bottom 
of the barrel and between each layer of meat, removing the large 
bones. Put a weight on the top layer to hold it down, and the juices 
of the meat furnish all the brine necessary. Meat thus pickled is 
ready for drying in six weeks, and does not toughen in tha summer. 

TO CORN BEEF (PococA- P/cA-/c).— Take 4 gallons fresh water, 
1| lbs. coarse brown sugar, 2 oz. saltpetre, 7 lbs. connnon salt; put all 
in a boiler, take off the scum as it rises, boil well, and then let it get 
cold. Have sufficient to cover the meat, lay a cloth over it, and 
weight down the meat. The same pickle may be used again by 
re=boiling, and adding a small quantity of each ingredient fresh. 

SPICED CORN BEEF. — Prepare a mixture of 4 cups molasses, 
4 cups of salt, 4 tablespoons of saltpetre, 2 tablespoons cloves, 2 



172 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 

tablespoons ground pepper; each day for 10 days rub this into the 
beef, turning the meat, and rubbing well in. This is for 20 lbs. 
of meat. At the end of the 10 days it can be used. 

HAMBURGH BEEF.— Take a piece of meat from some fleshy 
l^art; scatter common salt under and over it, and let lie 24 hours to 
void the blood; then put into a pickle made with 1 gal. water that 
has been boiled, 1 lb. common salt, Ih lbs. coarse sugar, 2 oz. salt- 
petre, I pint vinegar; simmer until all are melted; i^lace the meat in 
a deep narrow pan and pour over the liquor, covering it comioletely; 
it will be ready for smoking in 3 weeks; dry well with a cloth, and 
rub pea meal all over it, until it has a good coat on it. If well 
smoked it will come out a bright yellow, and will keep any length of 
time. 

HOME MADE DRIED BEEF.— Select a nice round of beef- 
better from a young animal — divide it into 2 pieces, following the 
natural line of division very carefully, so as not to make any cuts or 
gashes for the fly to burrow in. Then for 50 lbs. of meat make a 
mixture of 2 lbs. fine salt, 1 oz. of powdered saltpetre, 1| lbs. brown 
sugar. Rub this mixture well into the meat every morning until 
used up, and at the end of 2 weeks hang up in a smoke house to 
smoke slightly or just enough to be tasted. Excess of smoke is not 
generally relished. It may be left hanging in any dry place away 
from flies. If it molds a little on the outside that will not hurt. 

BEEF, SCOTCH METHOD OF DRYING.— Take 2 lbs. salt, 1 
oz. finely ground cloves, 2 oz. of ground pepper, or in these propor- 
tions for any desired quantity. After cutting the meat into suitable 
pieces, rub this mixture well into it every day for 5 or 6 days; then 
hang the meat up to dry. This is said to produce superior dried 
beef. 

TONGUES, TO CURE.— (1) Take 9 lbs. salt, 8 oz. sugar, and 9 
oz. powdered saltpetre. Rub the above ingredients well into the 
tongues, and keep them in this curing mixture for 2 months, turning 
them every day. Drain them from the pickle, cover them with 
brown paper, and have them smoked for about 3 weeks. The above 
quantity of brine is sufficient for 12 tongues of 5 lbs. each. (2) 
Take | oz. saltpetre, ^ oz. salprunella, 1 lb. salt, ^ lb. very coarse 
sugar, 4 bay leaves, 1 tablespoon of vinegar, and 3 pints of water. 
Let it boil for ^ hour, skim off the scum, and pour the liquid into a 
pickling dish; when it is quite cold put the tongue in, and turn it 
every day for 3 weeks, if you wish to cook it green, but if not leave it 



CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 178 

in the pickle for a month. This pickle will keep good for months if 
re= boiled and skimmed. Every tongue put in should first be well 
rubbed with salt, left to drain for 3 days, and then wiped dry. 

PICKLE FOR TONGUES AND BEEF.— Use 1 gal. water, 2 
lbs. common salt, 4 oz. saltpetre, | lb. brown sugar; boil all well to- 
gether. A tongue should be pickled 14 days before it is considered 
well cured. 

TO PICKLE PIGS' FEET.-Put them in strong brine, and 
leave for 1 M-eek; then take out and boil in water to remove the 
brine, then pour vinegar over them, and soak in a pickle containing 
b?^y leaves, allspice and mace. 

TO CLEAN BEEF TRIPE.— Rinse carefully in cold water 
(after emptying the contents, none of which should be allowed to 
touch the outside). Then sprinkle on lime, j)ut it in a tub, j)our on 
hot water and leave 2 hours; then try scraping it with a knife — if the 
dark does not come off readily, spread on more lime and put in the 
tub another hour or two; then scrape, and rinse clean with cold 
water. Put it in salt water, enough to cover it, and leave 3 days; 
change the water each day. Take it out, cut in strips, and whiten by 
laying it in buttermilk for a few hours; then rinse clean, and boil for 
a few hours— or till it is tender enough to mash with the fingers. 
Then it is ready to cook as desired. 

RENNET, TO PREPARE.— Rennets should not be saved from 
calves less than a week old; those from 3 to 4 weeks old make 
the best. Never use a stomach of an animal the least out of health. 
Take the rennet out immediately after the animal is killed, turn 
inside out without washing, cure thoroughly with dairy salt, dry 
perfectly, and keep in paper bags till wanted for use. For use, 
soak in clean whey, saturated with salt, for 24 hours before using, 
frequently squeezing them with the hand to macerate. After being 
soaked, keep the liquor as cool as possible in tightly covered ves- 
sels until used. ^ ^ 

TO PREPARE BLADDERS FOR USE.— Soak them for 24 hours 
in a basin of water in which a little chloride of lime has been dis- 
solved; then clear all extraneous matter from the bladders, wash 
them thoroughly in clean water, and hang them up to dry. 

SAUSAGES. — Use the trimmings and other lean and fat por- 
tions of pork, selecting about twice as much lean as fat. Some 
consider it an improvement to add about one-sixth the weight of 



174 CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 

beef. Season to taste. Some use salt and pepper alone (say 1 tea- 
spoon to 2 lbs. of meat), and others add sage, thyme, mace, cloves 
and other spices. If the meat is put into muslin bags 2| to 8 
inches in diameter, and, after being tilled, are dipped into melted 
lard and hung up in a cool, dry place, it will keep very satisfactorily. 

PORK SAUSAGES. — For these the right joroportions of fat 
and lean meat is about i fat, and for every 10 lbs. of the minced 
sausage 4 oz. of salt, 1 oz. of pulverized black pepper, and 1 table- 
spoon pulverized sage is nearly the right proportion of seasoning. 
Mix thoroughly, but add no water. It can be packed down in stone 
jars, with hot lard poured over it, to be cut out in slices for cooking; 
put in cheese=cloth bags of the right size to cut off pieces to 
serve, or it can be filled into the small intestines for beef or 
IDigs, and tied into links. The intestines should be cut into 
pieces about a yard long; strip out the contents, turn them 
inside out on a stick; take them off and wash thoroughly in warm 
salted water; put to soak over night in another salted water; the 
next day thoroughly scrape them on a board with a dull knife; then 
soak them another night in salted water, when they will be ready 
for use. 

BOLOGNA SAUSAGES — Take 3 lbs. lean beef, 3 lbs. lean pork, 
2 lbs. fat bacon, 1| lbs. beef suet; put the lean meat into a stewqoan 
of hot water, and set it over the fire for ^ hour; then cut it small, 
each sort by itself; shred the suet, bacon or ham, each by itself. 
Season with pepper, thyme, chopped fine, and ground mace; fill ox- 
skins with it, tie them in lengths, and put them in a beef 
brine for 10 days; then smoke them the same as ham or tongue. 
Rub ground ginger or pepper over the outside after they are smoked, 
and keep them in a cool, dry place. (To prepare the skins, take 
ox intestines, cut them into strips about G feet long, wash them 
thoroughly in warm water, and then turn them inside out and wash 
again; scrape them with a suitable scraper designed for this use, 
wash off, and put them into salt water to soak until desired for 
use. Be very careful not to tear the skins while working on them.) 

A SIMPLE WAY TO SMOKE MEAT.— Take a kerosene or rain 
water barrel, and drive nails around the top on which to hang the 
meat; fill an iron pan or pail half full of ashes, and build a fire 
in it; set it in the bottom of the barrel, place a board on top and 
cover with a heavy cloth or blanket to keep out the air and con- 
fine the smoke. Those without a smoke house can easily do a little 
smoking in this way. 



CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS 175 

LARD, TO MAKE — Cut the fat up into pieces about 2 inches 
square; fill a vessel holding about 3 gal., with the pieces; put in a 
pint of boiled lye made from oak and hickory ashes, and strained 
before using; boil gently over a slow fire until the cracklings have 
turned brown; strain and set aside to cool. This will give more, 
whiter, and better lard than any other process. 

LARD, TO BLEACH. — Apply a mixture of bichromate of 
potassa and muriatic acid in minute proportions to the fat. 

LARD, TO KEEP SWEET.— When rendering (melting) it, 
throw into each kettle a handful of slippery elm bark. Add no 
salt at any time; the jars in which it is kept must be perfectly 
cleaned. This plan will keep it sweet even in the warmest weather. 

BEEF FAT. — This, if thoroughly cooked in water and the fat 
skimmed ofp as it rises, is very nice. It will remain soft, and is pre- 
ferred to lard by many, for various uses. 

TALLOW, TO CLARIFY.— Dissolve -| lb. of alum in 1 pint 
of water; add 50 lbs. of tallow in a jacket kettle (/. e., a kettle 
set in a larger one, and the intervening space filled with water; 
this prevents burning the tallow); boil it | of an hour and skim. 
Then add ^ lb. salt dissolved in 1 pint of water; boil and skim. 
When well clarified the tallow should be nearly the color of water. 

SUET. — Cut fresh suet in small pieces and cover them with 
water; let them remain in the water bath 24 hours, but change 
the water once during the time; this removes the peculiar tallowy 
taste. Now drain well and put in an iron kettle with ^ teacup of 
milk to each jjound of suet; let it cook very slowly till the fat looks 
clear and is light brown, and till all sound of cooking has ceased. 
Loosen the pieces from the bottom of the kettle to j^revent scorch- 
ing, but avoid stirring; let it stand till partly cooled, then pour into 
cups to become cold. It smells as sweet as butter, and can be 
used in place of it for many purposes. The fat left in the pieces 
may be pressed out and used in various ways. ' 



HASH AND CROQUETTES. 

^ I / HE dinner table should be liberally supplied with both meat 
^ I I and vegetables, as it is the principal meal of the day. This 
w I W should be done so that each member of the family can be gen- 
erously helped, remembering that a family stinted in food, 
no matter how finely dressed, or housed, can never be in a healthful 
condition; it also provides for unexpected guests. The remainder of 
the dinner, if at noon, can be sliced cold, and served with the supper 
if needed, or minced the next morning for hash. Hash is also a fine 
accompaniment on the supper table in cold weather, when hungry 
children come from school. The meat for dinner need not be of the 
most exj)ensive joints, for the cheaper cuts are quite as nutritious, 
and, if ijrojDerly cooked, can be made very palatable. 



HASH AND MINCED MEATS. 

Under this head are included recipes for mincing and re=warm- 
ing in an appetizing manner, cold meat of all kinds, fish, etc., etc. 
This minced meat is usually combined with vegetables, or bread, ei- 
ther in crumbs, or toasted slices, and forms a series of dishes, both 
economical and agreeable to the palate. The French term Salmis 
(Sahiiij by foreign cooks) is used more particularly to designate 
minced game re-warmed in various ways, but in plain English it is 
simply hash. In making hash, and in re== warming any kind of cold 
meat, do not confound the term re= warming with re=cooking; to re= 
cook meat is to harden it, and the secret of good hash is to make it 
just piping hot, and no more. 

HASH. — One of the most common forms in which cold j^otatoes 
and meat left from yesterday's meal appears, is — hash. Not 1 per- 
son in 10 knows how to put it together appetizingly. Chop fine such 
bits of cold meat as you may have, add a double quantity of potato, 
chopped fine also, mix well, season with pepper and salt to taste; 8 
minutes before you wish to serve the dish, melt a tablespoon of but- 
ter in a spider, and, when hissing hot, put in the hash and press it 
down well and evenly all around. At the end of the time specified, 
have a heated plate ready, turn it over the spider, tip the latter upside 
down with the plate beneath, and send your steaming " hash cake " 

176 



HASH AND MINCED MEATS 177 

to the table. This " hash " can be varied indefinitely. Some prefer 
a larger portion of meat, others not so much. Occasionally a flavor- 
ing of chopx)ed onion may be added, or a s^joonful of any good catsup 
or sauce to give piquancy. And sometimes for a change, mix as di- 
rected, flour your hands well and form into balls, and fry light brown 
in plenty of hot lard. 

Do not stir hash while it is heating, for that inclines it to stick 
to the pan, and it also makes the hash salvey. The very best hash is 
made with hot baked potatoes, | potato to ^ of finely chopped meat. 

BAKED HASH.— Chop finely the remnants of cold meat left 
from dinner, cho^j cold potatoes and add — there should be twice as 
much potato as meat. If there are not enough of cold potatoes for 
this proportion, dip 2 slices of bread in cold milk or water, and chop; 
season with salt and i3epper, and herbs, if liked, with a bit of sliced 
onion. Melt a piece of butter the size of an egg, in the baking=pan, 
put the hash well mixed in the pan and cover tightly with a plate; 
bake ^ hour, and turn out in a cake on a hot dish. If it is covered 
with a white pie=plate, that is the best dish to serve it on, as it is 
already hot. Economical and good. Serve with pickles. 

CORNED=BEEF HASH.— If the family is large, in addition to 
the daily dinner, it is well to boil a i)iece of corned^beef every 2 or 3 
days and have this hash every day or every other day, either for sup- 
per or breakfast, as it is economical and liked by most people. Not- 
withstanding the threadbare jokes about " hash mills, " " hash-factor- 
ies," mysteries," etc., people still like a good dish of hash when they 
have "confidence in the cook." Cook the beef slowly until done; let 
it get cold in the liquor it was boiled in, then take it out, wipe it dry, 
and it is ready to chojD. Use the fat and lean together, and the cold 
fat from the top of the kettle to heat with the hash. Have the pota- 
toes quite cold, or they will stick to the chopping knife. A lady with 
a large family of fashionable boarders, told the writer that this dish 
was often called for at her table. , ^ 

FRENCH HASH.— Take cold bits of meat left from a roast of 
beef, chicken or cold turkey, finely minced, add gravy enough io 
make moist; when quite hot, place the mixture over toast. This 
is a very nice breakfast dish, 

HAM HASH. — Take equal parts of potato, boiled ham and bread, 
chopped fine, and cooked in hot fat left from frying ham; cook about 
10 minutes, and season with pepper when it is ready to be dished. 

SCOTCH HASH. — ChoiJ raw beef very fine; add butter about 
the size of an egg, pepper, salt, and chopped parsley; cover with 
12 



178 HASH AND MINCED MEATS 

water, stew 15 minutes, keeping it coven-d. Pour it over slices of 
toasted bread. 

TURKEY HASH. — Mince the remnants of turkey left from a 
previous dinner. Boil the bones in a quart of water until the 
quart is reduced to a pint; then strain, add turkey gravy if you have 
it, a bit of butter if the turkey is not fat, with a seasoning of salt and 
pepper; if there is dressing left, boil it in with the bones. Dredge 
a little flour over the minced turkey, put it in the hot gravy and 
let it just come to boiling heat. Serve in a hot dish on slices 
of toasted bread. 

VEAL HASH — Chop ^ pint of fricasseed veal (ilo not make 
it as tine as for croquettes); put veal fat, beef dripping or butter, in 
the stewqjan with the meat; if you have no broth or gravy, add 
hot water enough to w^et the meat. Season with pepper and salt, 
dredge on a little flour, stir all together, put in a hot dish, with 
slices of toasted bread or crackers in the bottom, and send to the 
table with baked potatoes. 

VEGETABLE HASH — Take equal parts of boiled vegetables, 
cornedbeef, and salt pork, chopped togethei ; this makes a fine hash. 
When you have a boiled dinner, always have enough left to make 
hash for breakfast the next morning. The vegetables used are 
potatoes, turnips, cabbage, beets, and parsnips or carrots; put the fat 
from the kettle in which the dinner was boiled, in a large frying-pan, 
and let it melt; then x)ut in the hash, smooth it dovvui, put a pie= 
plate over it to keep in the steam, set it on the back of the stove 
for 15 or 20 minutes until thoroughly heated, and dish it in the hot 
l^late which covered it. Vegetable hash is often made without meat, 
and is much liked by most people. 

HASH PIE — Take any kind of cold meat and chop it finely; 
season with salt and pepper, put in a layer of bread crumbs, then a 
layer of meat, then crumbs, until the dish is full. Make a gravy, 
pour it over, and bake. 

SCRAPPLE. — This can be made of. odds and ends of fresh meat 
such as would be used for soups— pigs' heads and feet, beef shanks 
and trinnnings. Boil the meat with sufficient water to cover it well, 
until the meat separates from the bones; then take it up, remove the 
bones, cut, or chop the meat finely, and return it to the broth; add salt, 
pepper, and herbs, if liked. Let it boil up again and thicken it with 
corn^meal to make a stiff mush, and cook it thoroughly. Put it in 
bread pans to solidify, and, when cold, cut off' in slices and fry in salt 



CROQUETTES 179 

pork fat, dripping, or sausage fat. This is an inexpensive dish, and 
excellent in cold weather, for supper or breakfast. Finely minced 
remnants of any kinds of cold meats, with the gravy, can be utilized 
in the above manner, instead of the fresh meat. 

PILAFF. 

1 onion. Butter the size of an egg. 

2 cups minced cold meat. 1 teacui^ rice. 
1 pint tomatoes. 

Put the butter in a fryingpan, and cut the onion in, then fry to 
a delicate brown; add the rice, and brown that in the butter, taking 
care not to let it scorch. Next add the tomatoes and 1 pint of hot 
water; cover and cook until the rice is done, adding more water if 
needed, but it should not be watery when done. Season with salt, 
pepper and cayenne, and curry powder if liked; then put in the 
chopped meat, stir well, and send to the ta])le hot. 

POTTED MEAT OR FISH.— All kinds of meats can be potted, 
and the same general princiijles hold good for all. Take the cooked 
meat or fish, remove it from the bones, clear away all skin and gris- 
tle, and pound it in a mortar. It should be well pounded, reduced to 
a smooth paste, and no unbroken fibre left. Then add spices, i^epper, 
salt, made mustard, mace and cayenne; the amount used varies. If 
it is intended for immediate use, add the spices sparingly; if to be 
kept some time, spice highly. Then moisten with melted butter, and 
press the mixture down in smalj j)ots or jars of stone or earthenware, 
and let it get thoroughly hot in the oven; or better, steam it 30 min- 
utes in the steamer. Then press down again and cover with hot 
clarified butter or beef suet, and tie paper dipped in egg over the toj). 
Game of all kinds, fish and beef, are best put up alone, but chicken 
or veal can be mixed with tongue or ham. This potted meat can be 
used in slices, or for sandwiches, and as it will keep for weeks if 
properly put up, it offers a change from hashes or stews, for using 
remnants of food which are left over. 



CROQUETTES. 

These are somewhat allied to hash, as they are only elaborate 
dishes made of finely cut meats, or with fish, oysters, vegetables, rice 
etc., or of several of these ingredients combined. They are formed 
into rolls or ovals, and usually fried in smoking hot fat, after they are 
egged and bread crumbed. Drain on paper, or a wire sieve, paper 
being best. The mixture may be stiffened by working in a little fine 



180 CROQUETTES 

cracker dust, if too soft to roll well, but it is apt to be made too stiff 
if any uncooked material like flour is added. 

If the fat in which they are fried is not hot enough they will 
burst ox)en, especially rice and potato croquettes. 

Time to fry, about 1 to 2 minutes. 

BAKED CROQUETTES — Take 2 cups finely chopped veal, \ cup 
dried bread crumbs, 1 egg, well beaten, 1 teaspoon salt, | teaspoon 
pepiDer, a pinch of mace; form into croquettes, roll in egg and cracker 
crumbs, and bake in a quick oven. 

BRAIN CROQUETTES.— Put 2 oz. of butter or beef drippings 
into a sauce=pan and set on the stove; when the butter has melted, 
add 1 small onion chopped fine; let it brown, then add calf's brains 
cut in small pieces, a small slice of bread first soaked in cold water 
and squeezed dry, a little thyme, minced parsley, -| nutmeg grated, a 
little cayenne pepper and salt; heat these all w^ell, then remove from 
the stove and add \ cup of milk and 1 egg, well beaten. Mix all 
thoroughly and set aside to cool. When cold, form into croquettes, 
dip them in beaten egg, roll in cracker crumbs and fry brown in hot 
fat. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES.— To 2 cups of cold boiled chicken, 
finely minced, add 1 cup of fine bread crumbs, 2 well beaten eggs, 
pepper and salt to taste; add a little cream if not moist enough — it 
should be as soft as can be, and keep its shape after being molded. 
Have ready on the fire a kettle of hot fat; flour the hands and make 
the croquettes into rolls a little larger than English walnuts; dip 
them in beaten eggs, then in fine bread crumbs; place in a wire bas- 
ket and fry in the hot fat until a golden brown; drain on a wire 
sieve, then keep them hot until time to serve. 

Chicken Croquettes No. 2. — Take 1 cup finely chopped chicken, 1 cuj) 
finely sifted bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon salt, | teaspoon white pepper, 
■| teaspoon chopped loarsley, and h cup stock, made by boiling the 
bones of the chicken; heat all together, and then stir in 1 beaten egg. 
When cold, form into croquettes, roll each in fine bread crumbs, 
then in beaten egg, then in crumbs again. Put them carefully into 
the frying^basket, and plunge it into smoking hot fat for 1 or 2 min- 
utes. 

CHICKEN AND OYSTER CROQUETTES — Take one cup of cold 
chicken, chopped fine, 1 saucer of cold, escalloped oysters, also chop- 
ped, ^ cup sifted bread crumbs, pepper, salt, a little mace, and 1 egg, 
beaten light; add a little broth made of the bones of the chicken boil- 



CROQUETTES 181 

ed ill just water enonjr^h to cover them. Have the mixture as soft as 
you can handle it, form into long' rolls as large as a man's finger, roll 
in sifted bread crumbs, and fry in hot fat. Serve with slices of 
lemon. 

FISH CROQUETTES, — Remnants of any cold fish, egg, bread 
crumos, cayenne, salt, and fat for frying are needed for these. Flake 
the fish finely, season to taste, add an equal (|uaiitity of bread 
crumbs; make a stiff paste with beaten egg; form into round l)alls 
about an inch thick and 3 or 4 inches long, and fry them a golden 
brown in smoking hot fat. 

HOMINY CROQUETTES.— Soak 1 cup hominy in water all 
night, and the next morning l)oil it till tender in 1 quart milk; let it 
cool, add 1 tablespoon butter, 1 egg, and season to taste with salt and 
cayenne. When cool, shape it in balls, egg and breadcrumb each, 
and fry in hot fat. Serve with tomato or onion sauce. 

LOBSTER CROQUETTES.— Use the fresh or canned lobster; 
strain off all the liquor and chop fine. Take 2 slices of bread, soak 
in water, remove the crust, squeeze dry, and mix with the lobster; 
season with salt, pepper, the juice of a lemon, and mix to a paste 
with a well beaten egg. Form into cakes, dip in beaten egg, then 
in sifted cracker crumbs, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

MEAT CROQUETTES.— Use 1 quart of meat, either chicken, 
veal or lamb, chopped but not too fine. To this quantity allow 1 
cup stock or gravy, 1 cup rich milk or cream, 2 large tablesjjoons 
of butter, 2 large tablespoons of flour, 1 teaspoon of salt, 1 teaspoon 
onion juice, cayenne and white pepper to taste, mace and any sweet 
herbs liked for seasoning meat, and 1 large cup boiled rice. Melt 
the butter in a sauce^pan, add flour, stir, then add stock or gravy, 
then the milk; when thick so that it can be raised from the pan 
with a spoon, add meat, rice and seasoning; stir till thoroughly mixed. 
Remove from fire, joour into a large flat dish and leave till x^erfectly 
cold, then form with the hand into cone or pea'r shapes, roll in bread 
crumbs, then in egg, then in crumbs again, and fry in smoking 
hot lard. Turn with a long handled skimmer and when brown lift 
out and place on brown paper to absorb the surplus fat. Set in a 
moderate oven for 5 minutes and serve. 

OYSTER CROQUETTES. -Take the oysters, beard them and 
cnop fine, and mix into a firm paste with bread crumbs, moistened 
with the yolk of an egg, seasoned with parsley, sweet marjoram, pep- 
per and salt. Cut into finger shaped pieces, and fry a delicate color. 
Strain and serve piled high on a dish, garnished with parsley. 



182 CROQUETTES 

POTATO CROQUETTES.— Take 2 cups cold mashed potatoes, 2 
eggs, salt to taste, -^ cup fine cracker crumbs; mix well, and roll on 
the kneading board with the hands in round cakes or long ones; 
scatter a little fine cracker dust on the board; egg and bread=crumb, 
and fry until brown in smoking hot fat. 

RICE CROQUETTES.— Take | cup rice, boil until soft, let it 
cool and beat into it 2 eggs, 2 spoons sugar, 1 teaspoon of salt; mold 
into balls, egg and bread crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

RICE AND CHICKEN CROQUETTES. - Take 1 cup cold chopped 
chicken, seasoned with pepper and salt, and one cup boiled rice; 
heat together on a teakettle, pail or double boiler, and if the mixture 
seems dry, add a little milk; when hot, stir in 1 egg, beaten light, and 
take from the fire when thoroughly mixed. When cold, shape into 
balls, egg and bread crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

VEAL CROQUETTES.— Take 1 heaping cup of cold chopped 
veal, 1 cup fine, dry bread crumbs, 1 teaspoon 
chopped parsley, a pinch each of sage and red pep- 
per, 2 teaspoons lemon juice; moisten with sweet 
milk, heat it, and add 1 egg, well beaten; use milk 
enough to make it as soft as you can handle when 
it is cold. When cold, form it into croquettes, egg 
and bread crumb, and fry in smoking hot fat. 

The Sage is a hardy shrub, a native of the south of 
Europe. There are several kinds of it, known as the red, the 
green, etc. Its principal use in cookery is for stuffing and 
sauces, the red being most agreeable for this use, and the sage. 

green next. The other varieties are used for medical 
purposes. 

KROMESKIES.— Kromeskies are croquettes cooked in the Rus- 
sian manner; they are made as follows: Mince the remains of any 
cold meat, fish, poultry, or shell fish, as for croquettes; season them 
nicely, and shape like a cork. Instead of dipping them in egg, and 
afterwards in bread crumbs, cut some slices of cold fat bacon 
(boiled) as thin as writing paper; wrap the croquettes in these, dip 
each one in a little frying batter, fry them in hot clarified fat, and 
when brown and crisp, arrange neatly on a hot dish; garnish with 
fried x^arsley, and serve immediately. Kromeskies may be made 
according to any of the reci^jes given for croquettes, and should be 
cooked as above. 

SCOTCH COLLOPS.— Cut away the fat and any skinny portions 
there may be from about 1| lbs. of steak, and mince it finely, sea- 
soning it well with salt and pepper. An onion can be added, if liked, 




CROQUETTES 183 

but this is a matter of taste. Melt a little butter in a stew=pan, put 
in tlie mince and stir it frequently to keep it from getting into 
lumps. In about 8 minutes, dredge a little flour over it, and pour 
upon it a little stock, boiling hot. Let it simmer gently a minute or 
two longer, and serve very hot. Three= cornered pieces of toasted 
bread may be put around the dish as a garnish. 

KOUFTAS (An Indian Dish)— Chop cold meat finely, season 
it well with pepper, salt and spice, make it into a paste with the yolk 
of egg, form it into cakes, and fry (saute) it brown in butter. 



EGGS. 

\ I /he eggs of different birds vary much in size and color. 
) I ^ Those of the ostrich are the largest. They are said to be 

^^^ pleasant in taste, and to keep longer than hens' eggs. The 
eggs of the goose are large, but well flavored, while turkey 
eggs are almost as mild as hens' eggs. Ducks' eggs have a rich 
flavor, and the albumen is slightly transparent, or bluish when set by 
boiling. Guinea fowls' eggs are smaller and more delicate than 
those of the hen. The eggs of wild fowl generally partake somewhat 
of the flavor of the l^ird they belong to. Those of sea fowl have a 
fishy taste more or less strong. The eggs of the turtle consist of 
yolk only, without shell, and are delicious. Hens' eggs are the ones 
principally used, and when raw they weigh 2 to 2| oz. The white of 
an egg is principally albumen, while the yolk contains most of the 
fat found in the e<,i;ii, and most of the mineral matters, the latter 
being principally sulphur and phosphate of lime. 

Eggs are deficient in the carbohydrates, and hence bread, pota- 
toes, rice, or other starchy foods, should be eaten with them to 
supply the elements they lack. It will l)e wise to use eggs freely, as 
they are nutriment in its most portable and concentrated form, and 
they are palatable to all classes of peojjle. They are strengthening 
to consumptives and to all feeble persons, and young children. 
They are medicine as well as food. The white of an egg is a sooth- 
ing application for a burn, as it coats it over and excludes the air, 
and it is an antidote for various poisons like corrosive sublimate, 
creosote and acids, as these articles coagulate albumen, and if white 
of egg is given soon after they enter the system, it combines with 
them and protects the stomach. 

Children do not receive into their systems a sufficient supply of lime for the 
development of bones, if eggs form a large part of their diet, for the albumen and 
yitellin of eggs, although highly nutritious, and adapted to the making of muscle, 
is deficient in lime. The embryo chicken takes its lime for the growth of bone 
from the shell of the egg, which diminishes in thickness day by day, until the time 
of hatching, when it becomes so thin as to be easily broken for the escape of the 
chicken. If the water supply of the family is in a limestone formation, children 
will get a sufficiency of lime through the medium of water; but if the rock forma- 
tion is primitive, and the water very soft, the defect may be remedied by the use 
of lime=water, as explained in the chapter on " Invalid Cookery." 

Invalids should never be given eggs which are more than 2 or ?, days old, as 
they will then have begun to deteriorate. The albumen in an egg will not become 
thick enough to beat well until it has been laid about 10 hours; for boiling or 
poaching, eggs l}^ days old are best. The philosophy of cooking eggs is 
explained in our article on the principles and processes of cooking meat, which 
Bee. 

181 



EGGS 185 

In hrealdng eggs, each one should be broken separately into a 
cup, and then there will be no danger that a bad egg will spoil other 
eggs or materials. Also be careful not to break the yolks, as that 
will spoil them for poaching, frying, etc. 

When puiting eggs in to boil, great care should be taken not to 
crack the shell, as a portion of the white will then exude inevitably, 
and it lets water into the egg. When fresh eggs are dropped into a 
large quantity of boiling water, they crack, because the interior, 
being full, is expanded by the heat, and the shells give way. If the 
quantity of water is small, the shells do not crack, because putting 
cold eggs into hot water lowers its temperature. Stale eggs do not 
crack because the air inside is easily compressed. Prick pinholes in 
the large end of the shell to keep the contents from oozing out 
through the crack, if an egg is cracked before putting it into the 
water. 

Eggs should always be washed as soon as they come into the 
house. Take a little cloth and carefully remove every particle of soil 
from the eggs, and then the shells will be ready to use in clarifying 
cofPee or soups. 

COLORING AND DYEING EGGS — Eggs can be easily dyed for 
Easter, etc. The aniline dyes are useful for the purpose. A simple 
plan is to place the eggs in colored water and boil them in it. Mot- 
toes, monograms, etc., may be produced as follows: Draw upon the 
shell with simple oil and a camel's hair brush, whatever name or de- 
vice it is wished to display; then place it in the coloring liquid and 
the portions touched with oil will remain white, while the remainder 
will be dyed. In a similar way the ground may be left white while 
the designs are colored. Wrapping them in calico which is brightly 
colored, and then boiling them in lye, will also color them. Eggs 
can be colored brown by boiling them in strong coffee, and yellow 
with onion peeling Cochineal will color them any shade from crim- 
son to pink, according to the quantity used. Logwood chips will 
color them any shade from port wine to black, by varying the 
quantity used. They can be made like gold or silver by coating 
them with painters' size (after boiling them hard) and then rolling 
them in a plate containing gold or silver dust, such as bookbinders 
use, until they are entirely covered, or a name or other device may 
be put on in this way. A little butter or oil rubbed over the egg 
when it is sufficiently cool to handle, after being boiled, gives it a 
nice bright look, 

BAKED EGGS. — Cut nice toast into squares. Take eggs out of 
the shell, keeping yolks whole. Beat the whites to a stiff froth, lay 



180 EGGS 

the beaten white around nicely on the toast, drop yolks in center of 
white ring, sprinkle on salt and put in hot oven to bake a few min- 
utes. When taken out of the oven, pour a little melted butter on 
the toast. 

No 2. — Grease a pie-plate well with butter, break into it as many 
eggs as it will conviently hold, and bake until the whites are fully 
set and the yolks slightly hardened; slip them on to a hot platter, 
and drop bits of butter over them, with a sprinkling of salt. 

TO BOIL EGGS. — Many fairly good cooks do not know how to 
boil eggs in the best manner. There are 2 good ways. One is to 
put them into cold water, gradually bring it to a boil, and as soon 
as the water commences to boil, they will be done. Another way is 
to put them into a saucepan and pour on boiling water enough to 
cover them; pouring the hot water on the eggs will lower its temper- 
ature a little; then let it simmer, not boil, until they are done, 
keeping the water about 180° to 185". 

It takes longer to cook eggs in this way than when they are put 
into boiling water, but when done, they will be jelly like instead of 
tough and leathery, and are more easily digested. The length of 
time to leave them in the water depends on the individual taste. 
An egg to be soft boiled should not be cooked in boiling water, for 
then the albumen near the outside will become tough before the yolk 
is heated. To hard boil an egg, it needs only to be left in the sim- 
mering water longer — say 20 to 30 minutes; it will then be solid but 
not leathery; the yolk is more mealy when cooked 20 minutes then 
when cooked 10. Eggs for salads, etc., should be thus hard boiled, 
and, when done, put in a basin of cold water a few minutes; then 
roll them on the table with the hand and the shell will peel off easily. 
Do not cut up eggs for garnishing purposes until about the time 
they are needed, or the yolk will dry up and get discolored. 

Breakfast Eggs.- A nice breakfast dish is made by taking eggs 
from the shell and boiling them 2 minutes in a cup of sweet cream; 
then season with salt and pepper. 

CREAMED EGGS.— Kemove the shells from G hard=boiled eggs, 
cut them in halves, and cut a slice off the round end, enough to make 
them stand. Put one tablespoon of butter in a sauce=pan to melt; 
add 1 tablespoon flour, mix till smooth, add 1 teacup milk or cream, 
and stir until it boils; season with salt and pepper. Stand the 
eggs on a heated dish, pour the sauce over, and serve. 

CURRIED EGGS. — Cut some hard-boiled eggs in halves; cut off 
the white end sufficiently to make them stand upright; then pour 
some curry sauce around them, and serve. 



EGGS 187 

DEVILED EGGS. — Boil 1 doz. eo^s hard; cut in two, length- 
wise, take out the yolks, and mash them. Prepare 2 teapoons of 
mustard by jwuring a very little boiling water on, and mix smooth; 
add a small teaspoon of butter, 1 of sugar, a little salt, and a few 
drops of vinegar. Mix some of the prepared mustard with the yolks, 
and refill the white part of eggs with the dressing. They make a 
nice garnish for lettuce, and also a nice dish for picnics. Other stuif- 
ings can be devised and filled into the whites in the same way. Cut 
them in two crosswise instead of lengthwise, if preferred. 

DROPPED EGGS ON TOAST.— Have ready a dish of boiling 
water, well salted, break the eggs into a saucer, and slide into the 
water, one at a time. Let the water keep at boiling point, but not 
bubble, and dip the' water with a spoon over the top of the eggs. 
Have ready some nice buttered toast, take the eggs up with a skim- 
mer, lay on the toast, dust a little salt and pepper over them, and 
serve. 

ESCALLOPED EGGS. — Boil 1 doz. eggs for 25 minutes; j)ut in 
cold water and take off the shells. Slice the eggs, and i^ut them in 
a pudding dish in alternate layers with bread crumbs, having a layer 
of the finest crumbs on the top of the dish. Season each layer of 
eggs with pepper, salt, and a little chopped parsley, if liked, and be- 
fore putting on the tox3 layer of crumbs, pour over it a pint of sweet 
cream. Bake until browned on the top. Serve hot. A good coun- 
try dish for luncheon, tea or breakfast. 

FRIED EGGS. — Take a hot frying-pan, put in a lump of butter, 
let it melt, and then drop in the eggs; let them fry o minutes; add 
salt and pepper to season; lift out with a skimmer. The nicest way, 
however, is to use the egg molds now made for the purpose in 
various sizes. In each mold put a piece of butter, and when melted, 
drop in the eggs; to prevent the under side from being overdone, 
loosen the edges every few seconds; season with salt and pepper, and 
take out with a sx)oon when done. Sorrel, spinach and green salads 
are nice with them. If a few eggs are fried in a large mold, put hot 
water in the unused forms. 

Cold Fried Eggs can be used for salad, or revamped by dipping 
them in fritter batter, and frying. A fine sauce for fried eggs is 
made of stewed tomatoes, grated cheese, and a couple of chopped up 
boiled sausages. 

EGG GEMS — Mix together chopped cold meat and bread 
crumbs, in equal quantities. If liked, a tiny bit of onion, chopped 



188 EGGS 

very fine, may be added to the meat and crumbs. Season with pep- 
per, salt, a spoonful of melted butter, and enough milk to wet and 
bind it together nicely. Have some gemq^ans w^ell greased, and fill 
with the mixture; then break an egg carefully on the top of each, 
season it with a little salt and pepper, and sprinkle some fine cracker 
or bread crumbs on the top. Bake 8 minutes. 

EGG NESTS. — Dip slices of toast Cj^uickly in hot water, spread 
lightly with butter, pile on, in the shape of nests, stiffly beaten and 
salted whites of eggs, place a yolk in the center of each, and bake 3 
minutes. 

OMELETS. — These light and simple dishes require practice to 
prepare them to perfection. Do not cook them until just before they 
are needed, and then serve them at once on a very hot dish. The 
mixing is simpler than the cooking. Any smooth iron spider will 
answer, but have it very clean. Have a clear fire, and the pan hot 
before making the omelet. Mix the omelet, moisten the bottom of 
the -pan with a little butter, pour in the omelet and as soon as slightly 
brown underneath, turn one half over the other with a knife, let it 
harden a moment, and turn out on a plate, or lift out with a pancake 
turner. Brown the omelet merely — never burn it, as the scorched 
egg flavor is an injury to it. Numerous flavorings can be added, and 
the name will be derived from the meat, fish, vegetable or herb used. 

Omelet, No. I. — Beat 6 eggs very light, the yolks and whites sepa- 
rate; add f^ teaspoon salt, and 3 tablespoons of milk; have a very hot 
pan, put in 1 tablespoon of butter, pour in the egg mixture, shake on 
the hottest part of the stove until the egg begins to thicken, then 
place on a grate in the oven until set; run the knife between the 
omelet and pan, fold the omelet over, and serve on a hot dish. 

Omelet No. 2. — Take 6 eggs, beat yolks and whites separately; add 
1 teacup milk, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 tablespoon butter, salt and pep- 
per to taste. Cook, and serve hot. 

Baked Omelet. — Take 4 eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately; 
1 cuj) of milk, 1 tablespoon of flour and a little salt; add the whites 
just before putting the mixture in the. oven. Bake 20 minutes in a 
well buttered dish. 

Baked Omelet No. 2. — Six eggs, 1 cup of milk, 1 tablespoon of 
flour, a i^ineh of salt. Beat the whites and yolks sej)arately. Mix 
the flour, milk and salt, add the yolks, then add beaten whites. Have 
a buttered spider very hot; pour in. Bake in a quick oven 5 min- 
utes. 

Green Corn Omelet. — Take 6 ears corn, grate or cut the kernels 



EGGS 189 

fine, add 4 eggs, 1 tablespoon flour, 1 cup milk; season with salt and 
pepper, and bake -h hour. 

Orange Omelet. — Mix a little orange juice, grated rind, and sugar, 
with the eggs before cooking them. Or (2) slice the oranges, remov- 
ing the seeds and skin; make a plain omelet, and fold the omelet 
over part of the oranges, and spread the rest on top when it is 
done, sugaring the top also. 

Queen Omelet. — Use 2 extra yolks to every egg. Beat fast for 2 
minutes. Have the frying j)an or spider hot, with a piece of butter 
the size of an egg; set in a hot oven and bake. When done it will 
be a light puff, and the extra yolks will keep it in shajje and prevent 
its falling. Sprinkle with salt, and, if liked, with sugar; turn on a 
hot plate, sprinkle the other side with salt, and send to the table. 

Rice Omelet. — To 1 cup of steamed or boiled rice, add 1 cup of 
water, 3 well beaten eggs, and 1 teaspoon of butter; season with salt 
and pepper, and, if liked, with a little finely chopped ham. Bake 
until it is a light brown. 

Sweet OmeSet.— Do not use any pepper, but add a little sugar — 
about 1 teaspoon for each egg. Make like a plain omelet, and when 
done, sprinkle sugar on tox3. This can be varied by putting any 
desired kind of jam, jelly, marmalade or preserves on top, or they can 
be folded inside when the omelet is folded over. 

Omelette Souffle.— Beat thoroughly together the yolks of 6 eggs 
and 6 tablespoons of pulverized sugar; flavor with vanilla or lemon, 
and then beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and stir lightly 
and quickly with the yolks and sugar; bake in an enameled puddings 
dish, or in small paper sotijfle cases, one for each person. The 
souffles should bake 10 or 15 minutes in a moderately hot oven, and 
be sent to the table immediately, as they soon fall. Blanched and 
pulverized sweet almonds can be added to the above for Almond 
Souffle. 

Various Omelets. — Any sort of an omelet can be made by folding 
into the omelet either sardines, tomatoes, ham^ oysters, cheese, kid- 
ney, mushrooms, macaroni, or whatever one desires or has on hand. 
Asparagus tops are nice in an omelet. The ingenious cook can 
devise many new and attractive dishes. 

POACHED EGGS. — Break the eggs separately into a cup; let 
them slide gently into boiling water with a few droiDS of vinegar in 
it. Take them out and serve on hot buttered toast. They are often 
conveniently poached in a frying^j)an; when poached in quantities 
they are apt to run together. In poaching eggs, a few drops of 
lemon juice or vinegar in the water keeps the whites from spreading. 



190 EGGS 

EGGS POACHED IN GRAVY — Poach the eggs in gravy instead 
of water. Serve them in their gravy, if clear. Or, poach the eggs in 
water, and serve with rich gravy poured round them. 

HAM AND EGGS — Prepare thin slices of fried or broiled ham, 
and serve a poached egg on each one. 

EGGS ON RICE — Butter a baking dish and fill it | full of cold 
rice which was seasoned with salt and butter when boiled; make as 
many depressions in the rice as there are persons to be served, break 
an egg into each depression, sprinkle with salt and strew with bits 
of butter. Bake until the eggs are set. Serve hot. 

SPANISH EGGS. — Serve poached eggs on highly seasoned, hot, 
boiled rice. 

ANCHOVIED EGGS — Prepare slices of toast, spread them with 
butter and anchovy jjaste, and put a poached egg on each slice. Sar- 
dine paste may be used instead of the anchovy, if preferred. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. — For every egg allow an even tablespoon 
of melted butter and a tablespoon of sweet milk. When the butter 
and milk is hot, put in the eggs without beating, and stir. When it 
begins to cook, scrape fast from the bottom of the frying-pan to keep 
from scorching. Take off while very soft, as they cook a half minute 
after being taken off', for which many cooks do not allow. Serve by 
itself hot, or on toast. A dash of lemon juice added just as they are 
going to the table is an improvement. 

Scrambled Eggs No. 2. — Beat the eggs, and allow 1 tablespoon of 
milk for each egg; season with salt and jDcpper, and fry in a buttered 
frying=pan, and while cooking, stir from the bottom. A few spoons 
of boiled string beans, or boiled peas, or tender ends of aspara- 
gus left over from dinner, can be stirred in; these are nice, furnish 
variety, and use up remnants. Try and devise new dishes. 

SCALLOPED EGGS. — Moisten bread crumbs with cream; place 
a layer in the bottom of a buttered dish; slice hard-boiled eggs, and 
put in a layer of them, with butter, pepper and salt, with chopped 
cold meat; continue alternately until' the dish is full; sift grated 
crumbs over the top, and put bits of butter on it; set it in the oven 
and bake 10 minutes. 

SHIRRED EGGS — Take 6 eggs, 3 tablespoons of gravy — from 
poultry is best — enough fried toast to cover bottom of a flat dish, a 
very little grated cheese, 1 teaspoon butter. Melt the butter in a 
frying-pan; when hot, break into this the eggs. Stir in gravy, and 



EGGS 191 

season; stir quickly and well u^) from the bottom, until the whole is 
a soft yellow mass. Have ready in a flat dish the fried toast. Heap 
the shirred eggs upon this, and serve before it hardens. 

SCOTCH EQQS — With 1 cup of cooked ham, chopped fine, mix 
-| a cup of bread crumbs made into a paste with I a cup of milk, |- a 
teaspoon of prepared mustard, a little salt, and 1 egg, well beaten; 
hard-boil 6 eggs, remove the shells, and cover them with the prepared 
mixture, and fry about 2 minutes in very hot fat; serve either hot or 
cold. Chicken, veal or salmon may be substituted for the ham, but 
lemon juice should be added to the seasoning if salmon is used. 

SNOWED EGGS — Beat the whites of 6 eggs till stifp; have on 
the stove 2 cups of milk SM'eetened and flavored with vanilla; when it 
boils drop the beaten eggs into it by tablespoons, and as soon as 
they set dip them out. Let the milk cool a little, then slowly stir in 
the yolks of the eggs, and when thick pour it around the snowed 
eggs and serve. 

STEAMED EGGS — Break each egg into an egg-cup, set them 
in a steamer and steam until cooked. They can be i^ut in buttered 
patty=pans, if more convenient, and then steamed. Serve hot. 

STUFFED EGGS. — Cut hard=boiled eggs in two, take out the 
yolk, and mix it with fried onions, a little finely chopped ham, and 
parsley, pepper and salt; fill the whites with this mixture, and fry 
until the yellow browns a little. 

EGG TOAST — Take a tablespoon of butter and 2 of cream, and 
warm together in a frying=pan. Break 6 eggs in it and stir lightly 
until cooked; have it well seasoned; have buttered slices of toast, 
spread the mixture on it, and serve hot. 




MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE. 

MILK. 

ILK is the only food which, taken alone, will support life in 
all its stages. It is the only perfect food for children, 
and in old age it is one of the most valuable foods known. 
The fat rises in the form of cream; curd is the nitrogenous 
matter, and the whey contains sugar of riiilk, or lactose, with the salt 
or mineral matter. Milk differs as procured from different animals, 
but its general characteristics are the same in all, and that of the cow 
is most generally used. Unless the milk is of the best quality, all 
the preparations made from it will be of an inferior character. 

Milk when taken into the stomach is coagulated by the acids in the gastric 
fluids, and the coagulum {curd) is digested like any other solid. The watery parts 
are absorbed. If much milk is drunk rapidly it will form a solid mass; if it is 
sipped a little at a time it will be broken into small parts, and will, therefore, be 
more easily digested. A quantity of acid taken into the stomach just before or 
after drinking milk is apt to harden the curd, and so interfere with its digestion. 
Between milk, flour and blood, there is great similarity of composition. The curd 
is the albumenoid part. 

From no other substance, solid or fluid, can so great a number of distinct 
kinds of aliment be prepared as from milk, some forming food, others drink; some 
of them delicious and deserving the name of luxuries, all of them wholesome, and 
some medicinal. 

Milk when first drawn from the cow is slightly alkaline, but afterwards lactic 
acid is formed, so that it becomes first neutral, then acid, and the acidity goes on 
increasing until it is perceptible to the taste; this acidity is thought to assist in 
the rising of the cream. In milk we have the tissue=making elements in its casein, 
and the heat=making in its butter; the curd or casein is changed to albumen 
again in the process of digestion. 

The souring of milk is caused by the bacteria which alight on the milk and 
cause a fermentation which acts on the lactose (sugar of milk) and forms lactic 
acid, which causes the sourness. When enough acid is formed it will unite with the 
soda ill the casein, making lactate of soda. The casein, when thus deprived of its 
soda, is insoluble in water, and it shrinks into a curdy mass. The introduction 
of an acid will hasten the process, as is done in making cheese. 

Solidified milk is made by sweetening fresh cow's milk, and evap- 
orating it to dryness in a water bath; when re=dissolved in water, it is 
said to have all the qualities of fresh milk. This preparation of milk 
is sometimes called lactoline. 

Sugar of milk is the dry, white, nearly tasteless powder used by 
physicians in preparing medicine in jDowders. It does not gather 
dampness like cane sugar, and will keep in good condition for years. 
It is sometimes given to children by itself, as a remedy in certain 
conditions of the system. It is made from evaporated whey. 

Canned or Condensed Milk. — This is now to be obtained in all 
parts of the civilized world, and is invaluable, as, being evaporated 

192 



MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 193 

by steam and hermetically sealed, it will keep for an indefinite time, 
while sealed, and after the can is opened, if care is taken, it will keep 
good for a week. The directions for reducing it are on the can. 
There is cane sugar added to it before condensing, and it has the 
color and consistency of thick, opaque honey. It can be used clear, 
a teaspoon to a cup of coffee, without sugar, as it is already sweet- 
ened. Diluted to the right consistency, it is much used as a food for 
infants. When good milk is difficult to obtain, condensed milk is a 
great blessing, for, being sterilized by extreme heat, it is free from 
dangerous germs. The large amount of cane sugar which it con- 
tains, and which is added to preserve it and prevent its thickening in 
the can, renders it somewhat less suited for infants than the natural 
milk, however. 

Sour Milk — If milk sours on your hands, do not throw it away — 
it can be used in various ways, as in making corn bread, soda biscuit 
and all kinds of pancakes, while many cooks prefer it to sweet milk, 
in making cookies, doughnuts and gingerbread. Sour milk can be 
substituted for sweet in making most kinds of cake, but remember 
in that case that only half as much cream of tartar should be used 
as the recipe calls for. 

Buttermilk also has many uses besides being used as a drink (to 
drink, it should be fresh) as it can be made into soup, or used in 
making corn bread, pancakes, soda biscuit, and many kinds of cake. 

BUTTER. 

Butter is the solidified oil or fatty matter of the milk of animals. 
The Greeks and Romans neither employed it in cooking, nor had it 
brought upon their tables; they used it only as an ointment in their 
baths. The Hebrews appear to have used it as food from an ancient 
date, and in England it has been used from very early times. In 
making butter the utmost care is required in all the manipulations 
from the time it leaves the cow until it is packed. The peculiar 
flavor of butter is derived principally from the butyric acid it con- 
tains. In the milk, the globules of fat are held in solution by the 
albumenoid (or proteid) matters, forming what is termed an emul- 
sion. The albumenoid matter must be separated from the butter 
before or during the process of churning, or the butter will not keep 
well, 

TO MAKE BUTTER QUICKLY.— Immediately after the cow is 
milked, strain into clean pans and set over a moderate fire until it is 
scalding hot; do not let it boil; then set it aside, and when cold, skim 
off the cream, and the milk will still be fit for any ordinary use. 

13 



194 MILK, BUTTEK AND CHEESE 

When you have enough cream, put it into a clean earthen basin, beat 
it with a wooden spoon until the butter is made, which will not be 
long; then take it out of the milk and work it in a little cold water 
until it is free from milk, then drain off the water, put in a small 
tablespoon of fine salt to each lb. of butter and work it in. A small 
teaspoon of fine white sugar worked in with the salt will be found an 
improvement; sugar is a great preservative. Make the butter in a 
roll, cover with a piece of muslin and teep in a cool place. 

An easy method of washing butter is to remove the butter from the 
churn, pour off the milk or buttermilk, as the case may be, half fill 
the churn with cold water (a little salt may he added to the water), 
rex3lace plunger and throw back the butter, and operate the churn as 
before for 1 minute. This process will extract all the milk from the 
butter, which may then be placed in a sieve to allow the water to 
strain from it, and then worked in the usual manner. 

BUTTER, TO SALT {Irish Recipe).— To 1 lb. of common salt 
add 1 lb. of saltpetre and ^ lb. of white sugar; pound all these 
together and mix them well, and to every pound of butter allow 1 
ounce of this mixture; make it fresh as you want it, observing to be 
careful always to keep the same proportions, and to mix the ingre- 
dients thoroughly. The butter should stand a month before you use 
it, to ripen. 

Butter to Salt, No. 2. — One pound of best salt, 4 oz. of sugar and 1 
oz. of saltpetre; pulverize it well together, and allow of this, 1 oz. 
to the pound of butter. 

CLARIFIED BUTTER, OR GHEE, as it is called by the Arabs, 
is prepared as follows: Put butter in a farina boiler or porcelain 
bowl, put it on the stove and bring to a boil; when cheesy, thick, 
white grains form, move it to the back of the range; the buttermilk 
which rises to the top should be skimmed off; after it has settled, 
strain it, and the clear, oily fluid remaining can be bottled for use. 
It can be kept for years, and for frying oysters, fritters, etc., there is 
nothing better known. 

SUBSTITUTES FOR BUTTER. Butterine — In preparing this, 
lard is heated to a temperature not exceeding 120", and the oil is sep- 
arated; a similar oil is obtained from beef fat, the 2 are mixed, and 
they are then churned with milk, making the butterine of commerce. 

Oleomargarine.* — In preparing this, beef fat is washed, ground, 



*It was during the Fraiicc-^German war of 1870-71 that a French chemist Mege= 
Mouvier acting under instructions from Napoleon III, went into his laboratory and 



MILK. BUTTER AND CHEESE 195 

and heated to 120" to 200° to separate the oil, which is known as 
"butter oil." This is cooled, salted, put into milk, a little annatto 
added to give it color, and it is then churned and worked like butter. 
In preparing butterine and oleomargarine only the best fats can be 
used, for there is no way now known to remove the unpleasant odor 
of fat if it is at all foul. These preparations are about as nutritious 
as true butter, and if properly used they are a most valuable addition 
to the food of the poorer people, who commonly suffer from a want 
of fatty food. Strict laws have been passed in some of the states 
against their sale except under their true name, and this is very de- 
sirable. It is a fraud to sell them for pure butter, but if well made, 
and sold for what they really are, they merit an extensive sale. They 
are certainly preferable to the poorer grades of butter, often partly 
rancid, which are frequently sold in the large cities. The objection 
to their use rests rather on sentiment and i^rejudice than on any phy- 
siological basis. They are to be considered rather as sulistitutes for, 
than imitations of butter. 

Other substitutes for butter are the vegetable oils; olive oil is best, if 
pure, but it is often adulterated with inferior oils. Pecinut oil is ex- 
cellent, and cotton-seed oil of late has taken an important place in 
cookery; it is inexpensive, and a less quantity is required than of 
butter in cooking. A prejiaration of cotton^seed oil and beef suet 
has been widely advertised, and is much used instead of butter and 
lard. Sesamum or Benne oil should be better known; it is easily 
raised in the southern states. It is a bland and oderless oil, and a 
most excellent substitute for olive oil in salads. It keeps for a long 
time without becoming rancid, if stored in a dark place. Popjjy-seed 
oil is also being used now somewhat. We believe the day is near at 
hand when some of the vegetable oils will largely supplant lard and 
other animal fats in nearly all cooking ojperations. 

Some people who have a dread of "margarine," take a piece of 
fat pork, melt it down, and strain it through a piece of coarse, thin 
muslin; then set it aside until it is cold. It is then white^ and firm, 
and may be used like butter in any kind of cake. In pound cake it 
is delicious. 

A Word About Fats. — And right here we may say a few words about 
different fats. There are three substances called- "stearin," "mar- 
garin," and " olein" which, without exception, principally make up 
all the fats we consume. They are called " neutral fats," and the fact 



invented the process of making a substitute for butter, designing it for use in the 
French army. The process has since been, further perfected, and tlie making of 
these substitutes has uow become a great iudustry, 



196 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 

that they melt at different temperatures constitutes the principal 
ditference between them. There is a small amount of what are 
known as '" fatty acids " in the vegetable oils, and in butter there 
is from 5 to 8 per cent, of 4 of these fatty acids (butyric, capronic, 
caprylic and caprinic) and from these butter derives its pecular fla- 
vor. Olein melts the most easily, and stearin the least so. The fats 
which melt most readily are the most digestible, and are most readily 
assimilated by the system, but the healthy stomach readily disposes 
of any fat used in the household, in reasonable quantities, although 
it should be taken into the system finely divided instead of in 
lumi)S. It will readily he seen, therefore, that all the fats are sub- 
stantially alike, and when once they are assimilated, they perform 
the same services for the body. Their flavors, and the readiness with 
which they melt in the mouth and in the digestive tract, make some 
forms, like l)utter, more palatable than others. Mutton fat would do 
about as well as any, but it is not swallowed readily because it con- 
tains so much stearin. The body requires a certain amount of fat, 
but it makes very little difference which one it takes, and for this 
reason the introduction of some cheaper forms of fat, in such a shape 
that they will be palatable, will be a great benefit to the mass of the 
people. We believe, as we have elsewhere stated, that some of the 
vegetable oils will soon be quite generally used, and it is certainly 
to be desired that they should be. Wealthy people will always use 
the best butter, but the mass of the people should understand what 
the cheaper sul^stitutes are, and their properties and merits, and cer- 
tainly there is no hygienic or physiological reason why they should 
not use these cheai^er substitutes, and so make a material saving 
in the household expenses. 

To keep butter sweet when it seems likely to taint, take some 
lime water and ijut the vessel containing the butter into it, leaving 
it there until the sweetness is restored. 

Rancid butter may be sweetened and recovered (1) by washing 
and kneading it well, first in new i^iilk, and afterwards in cold spring 
water; butyric acid, on which the rancidity depends, being freely solu- 
ble in new milk. (2). Beat the butter in a suflicient quantity of 
water, in which you i)ut 25 to 30 drops of lime chloride to each 
pound of butter. After mixing it till all its parts are in contact with 
the water, it may be left in from 1 to 2 hours; afterwards withdraw, 
and repeatedly wash in fresh water. (3). Melt the butter and skim 
as for clarifying; then put into it a piece of bread thoroughly toasted 
all over. In 1 or 2 minutes the butter will lose its offensive smell 
and taste. (4). Thoroughly mix! teaspoon of soda and 1 tablespoon 



MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 197 

of salt for each pint of butter; then add equal parts of butter and 
cold \Yater, set on the stove, and bring all to a boil; then remove, let 
cool, and take otf the butter; it will be sweet, and good for cooking. 
(5). A little saltpetre worked into butter that has become sour or 
rancid will render it sweet. — Remember that great care must be taken 
not to burn butter when trying it out. 

A icord about rancid buffer. — Nobody eats it on breac^ but it is sometimes used 
in cooking, althoupch it really ruins every dish into which it enters. It is injurious, 
and many cases of dyspepsia can be directly traced to rancid butter. It should 
never enter into the composition of any dish which appears on the table. Sweeten 
it or throw it away. 

To keep butter hard in hot weather, without ice, invert a large 
crock of unglazed earthenware over the dish containing the butter 
(a large, clean flower=pot will answer); the porousness of the earth- 
enware will keep the butter hard if the pot is wrapped in a wet cloth. 
Another way is, after one meal is served, take a silver-plated butter^ 
dish, clean and wash it, then when cool, place on it sufhcient butter 
for the next meal; set the dish in a shady, airy place (in a draft if 
possible); wet a clean towel with cold water, cover the dish tightly 
with the towel and let it stand until the next meal; the evaporation of 
the water will cool the butter. 

CHEESE. 

When milk is curdled it separates into two portions — curd and 
whey. The former consists of the butter and casein, and produces 
cheese; the latter is mainly water, holding the sugar and mineral 
constituents of the milk in solution. Any acid introduced in milk 
has the curious jDroperty of coagulating the curd or casein. This 
acid is supplied by the '• rennet," but in some countries a weak 
solution of hydrochloric acid is used instead. In preparing cheese 
for cooking, old cheese should be grated, and new and soft ones 
should be chopped. 

An analysis of cheese shows it to be one of the most nourishing of foods. 1 
lb. of average cheese containing more nutriment than an equal weight of ordi- 
nary meat. Eaten raw it is not suited to persons of_ weak digestion or of sed- 
entary habits, and it tends to produce costiveness. If it could be properly cooked 
it ought to be one of the most desirable of foods. It is frequently over^cooked, 
converting it into an air=tight, leathery substance, which is harder to digest than 
the raw cheese. When lightly cooked it is easily assimilated, and very nourishing. 
In fact it is too nourishing to be eaten heartily as an accompaniment to meat; it is 
more adapted for the main course of the meal. It is most deficient in the salts of 
potash, which, on account of their great solubility, are left behind in the whey. 
Eating freely of fruits or salads will supply these salts, but vegetables do not 
answer the purpose, because in ordinary methods of cooking them, their salts 
are dissolved out. and wasted. 

With the advance of scientific knowledge and scientific cookery, the true value 
of cheese for food will sometime be better appreciated, and it will take a much 
more important place among the foods of the race than at present, we believe, and 



198 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 

it is certainly entitled to it. We would add that some of the German scientists 
have recently been investigating the digestibility of cheese. Dr. Rubner found 
tliat when taken alone he could not consume much of it, but wlien taken with 
milk he easily assimilated nearly J^ lb. The softer kinds are very largely used 
in Germany. Except in fat, skim cheeses are as nutritious as any otiaers. 

Rennet. — This is made from the fourth or lowest stomach (the 
aJ)()]U(isus) of the calf. Soon after the animal is slain the stomach 
should be cut open at 1 end, emi^tied of the curdled milk, and turned 
inside out; then wilh a damp cloth dipped in dry salt, carefully 
wipe the inside of the bag until it is free from any particles of 
curdled milk; do not wash it, as that extracts the gastric juice. 
Eub fine salt thoroughly into both the inside and outside of the bag, 
place it in a bowl, and cover it to keep out the flies. The next day 
there will be a brine formed with the salt; turn the rennet=skin in 
the bowl, and let it stand another day to jjickle. Take a long, slen- 
der, green, wooden stick, make it into bow shape, and stretch the ren- 
net bag on the stick and hang it up to dry. When thoroughly dry, 
do it up in paper so that no insects can get into it, and keep it in a 
dry place. 

To Prepare Rennet. — When wanted for use, the dried rennet is cut 
in pieces about an inch square, and if to be used for invalids' curds 
it is put in a bottle with wine; a piece half the size of the hand is 
enough for a pint of wine; it must be kept well corked. It is bet- 
ter to have the druggist jirepare the wine after his formula. A tea- 
spoon is enough to " set " a quart of sweetened milk. Set the milk 
on some solid foundation, as it then coagulates with much less ren- 
net than when it is jarred by people walking near it. For dairy 
purposes the rennet is steeped in a weak brine, but that way of pre- 
paring it is not the best for invalid cookery. 

The Usual Mode of Serving Cheese, is to cut the desired quantity into 
neat, square pieces, and put them in a glass cheese dish, in which 
it is handed around the table. If the cheese is too crumbly to serve 
in this manner, the host or hostess can have the large piece of 
cheese placed on the table, with a cheese=scoop to serve it with, or 
a heavy silver spoon. The cheese must be nicely scraped before 
serving in the latter way. When there is a cheese course at dinner, 
several kinds of cheese are placed on the table at once, cream cheese, 
Parmesan, Stilton, etc., etc., and rusks, crackers, or fancy biscuits, 
fanciful pats of butter, lettuce, cucumbers or cresses, are served with 
the cheese. 

Parmesan cheese is, perhaps, the most celebrated of the foreign varieties. It is 
made of skimmed milk, and owes its rich flavor to the fine, sweet herbage of Lom- 
bardy about Parma and Pavia, in Italy, where the cows are pastured. It is distin- 
guished by its power of keeping, and after being kept some time it becomes hard 
and needs to be grated before it can be used. 



MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 199 

BOILED CHEESE. — Take 2 thick slices of cheese, 1 teasjjoon of 
butter, "I teacup of milk, a little sugar and mustard, 1 egg, pepper 
and salt to taste. Put all the ingredients, except the egg, into a clean 
pan, and stir over the fire until they boil and become quite smooth; 
then beat the egg well, and stir it in over the fire for a minute, after 
which pour out on a dish and brown in the oven. 

CREAM CHEESE. — Dip a cheese cloth in salted water, and put 
it in a square dish or baking tin, having first laid a folded napkin 
in the dish; on the cheese cloth put the thickest cream you have 
— it must be perfectly sweet (Devonshire cream is the best); pour 
the cream in, a little at a time, and sprinkle a little salt on each 
layer; fold over the cloth and let it lie until the next day; then 
turn it into a dry cloth, put a dry, folded cloth under it, put a liitle 
square platter on it, and set a Hut iron on the platter; change the dry 
cloth once more, and on the third day it is ready to eat. If preferred, 
this cheese can be made in a round form in a pudding dish. 

COTTAGE CHEESE. — Put a pan of sour or loppered milk on 
the stove or range where it is not too hot; let it scald until the 
whey rises to the top (be careful not to let it boil or the curd will 
become hard and tough). Place a clean cloth or towel over a sieve, 
and pour this whey and curd into it, leaving it covered to drain 2 
or 3 hours; then put it into a dish and chop it fine with a spoon, 
adding a teaspoon of salt, a teaspoon of butter, and enough sweet 
cream to make the cheese the consistency of putty. With your 
hands make it into little flattened balls. Keep in a cool place. 
Some like it made rather thin with cream, serving it in a deep dish. 

DEVONSHIRE CREAM.— The milk should stand 24 hours in the 
winter, and half that time in warm weather; then the milk pan is 
set on the stove, and should there remain until the milk is quite 
hot, but it must not boil. When it is sufficiently done, the undu- 
lations on the surface look thick, and small rings appear. The time 
required for scalding cream depends on the size of the pan, and the 
heat of the fire, but the slower it is done the better. Set it back in 
the dairy again, after scalding, and skim the following day. This 
cream is so much esteemed that it is sent to the London markets 
in small square tins, and is exceedingly delicious when eaten with 
fresh fruit. In Devonshire, butter is made from tliis cream, and is 
usually very firm. 

CHEESE FRITTERS.— Put into a sauceqoan 1 pint of water, 1| 
oz. of butter, a teasi^oon of black jjepper, and a pinch of cayenne, and 



200 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 

bring the water to boiling point; then gradually stir in flour enough 
to make a thick paste. Remove from the fire and incorporate ^ lb. 
of grated Parmesan cheese, the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a froth, 
and the yolks of 4. Let the paste stand for 2 hours, and then fry in 
little pieces, dropped into boiling lard. Sprinkle a little salt over 
them before serving. 

FONDUE — Beat 6 eggs until light; season with salt, pepper and 
2 tablespoons grated cheese; xDut a tablespoon of butter in a frying- 
pan; when hot, pour in the eggs and stir until well done and smooth; 
serve on buttered toast. 

THE HOME CHEESE SCALLOP— Soak 1 cup of dry bread 
crumbs in fresh milk; beat into it 3 eggs, add 1 tablespoon of butter 
and I lb. of grated cheese; strew upon the top sifted bread crumbs, 
and bake in the oven a delicate brown. 

ITALIAN CURDS {GaUino Curds).— Toke a number of the 
rough coats that line the gizzards of turkeys and fowls; clean them 
from their contents, rub them well with salt, and hang them to dry. 
When needed for use, break off bits; pour over them a little hot 
water, and after standing over night it is ready for use. It makes a 
more delicate curd than calf's rennet. Warm 2 quarts of milk, and 
add some of the gallino liquor, and, when the curd is well set, dip it 
carefully with a large spoon or ladle into a colander over which a 
cheese-cloth has been spread; handle it carefully so as not to start 
the white whey. When the whey has separated from the curd, so 
that it has consistence, sprinkle with salt, and send to the table. 

CHEESE AND MACARONI {Italian Mode).— Boil 6 ounces of 
the best macaroni in 3 pints of boiling water, with a little pepper and 
salt. Allow it to simmer gently for 15 or 20 minutes, then drain it, 
return the macaroni to the sauce^pan with \ a pint of good gravy and 
allow it to simmer until it has absorbed all the liquid. Have ready 
grated -| lb. of cheese, put half of it with the macaroni until it is 
nearly melted, and then add the remainder with an ounce of butter. 
Stir it well, always the one way, until cheese and macaroni are well 
mixed. Serve very hot. A little short crust bordering the dish is 
an addition. 

POLPETTI {Italian). — Chop cold meat finely, either roast or 
boiled; season with mushrooms or truffles, and grated Parmesan 
cheese, nutmeg, salt, pepper and chutnee sauce; spread on a tin to 
cool, after being well heated together; cut in small squares when 
cold, dip in egg, and then in bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard. 
Serve with plain boiled macaroni and cream. 



MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 201 

POTTED CHEESE — To pot cheese is an economical way of 
disposing of any that has become dry. Cut the cheese into small 
pieces, and pound it smoothly in a mortar, adding a little nice sweet 
butter, just sufficient to make a x)aste suitable for spreading on bread 
for sandwiches; add a little mixed mustard, and a trifle of cayenne to 
the paste; pack in little earthen pots; if to be set on the table for an 
appetizer, cover closely, and set in a dry place; if there is danger of 
mold, X3ut a few drops of extract of cloves on the top of the ^Daste 
before covering; or, if preferred, a thin layer of nice salad oil. 

SMEAR CASE — Pour boiling water on clabbered milk, till the 
curd separates from the whey; let it stand till the curd settles, then 
pour cold water on it and stir; let settle, drain water off; do this till 
the water is clear, then let it settle, and squeeze out enough curd for 
one meal. Season with salt, pepper and sugar, and pour good, sweet 
cream over. You can keep it in water for several days, by changing 
the water every day. 

CHEESE STRAWS. — Mix together 4 tablespoons of flour, a 
pinch of salt, a very little cayenne pepper, and 8 oz. of grated English 
cheese. Add the beaten yolk of an egg, and then enough iced water 
to make a very stiff jjaste. Roll the paste out on a board into a sheet 
^ of an inch thick. Cut the paste into strips y- of an inch wide and 
5 inches long, and bake them about 10 minutes in a very hot oven. 
They should be a very light brown. If you have any scraps of paste 
left, roll them into a sheet, and cut it into small rings. Bake them, 
and slip little bundles of the straws through them. 

TOAST WITH CHEESE — In 1 cup of milk stir 1 cup of grated 
cheese, and boil until the cheese softens in the milk; then add 2 welb 
beaten eggs; stir until it boils, take from the fire and spread over 
nicely=browned toast. Served very hot. This will be found enjoya- 
ble. It is a nice dish for breakfast or tea. 

WELSH RAREBIT.— Cut slices of stale bread about i inch 
thick, and toast them a nice brown on both sides (take time enough 
so that it can be well done without scorching, and this rule will 
apply to making toast at any time). Have as many thin slices of 
rich, mild cheese as there are of the toasted bread; dip the edges of 
the toast in hot water, and spread with softened butter; lay a slice 
of the cheese on each slice of toast, and set the platter on the top 
shelf of a hot oven until the cheese is melted into the toast and 
slightly browned. Another way is to lay each slice of toast on a 
blue=edged English baking=plate, just a little larger than the toast; 



202 MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE 

dust a little cayenne, or j)epper, on the toast before putting on the 
cheese; place the little plates in a large dripping=pan, without water, 
set on the top shelf of the hot oven, and when done as above directed, 
serve each jjerson with the rarebit on the hot plate. Another method 
is to melt the cheese in a little cup and pour it over the prepared 
toast. Some add a little butter and milk, stirring it into the melted 
cheese till smooth, before pouring it over the toast. Others add a 
little egg, butter, mustard and cayenne. Do not make it until just 
ready to serve it, as, if it stands and becomes cold, it will be nearly 
spoiled. 

CHEESE CRACKERS.— Take small, thin crackers, sprinkle on 
grated cheese and set in the oven until the cheese adheres to them. 
Serve either hot or cold. Some people butter the crackers lightly 
and add a dash of cayenne before sprinkling on the grated cheese. 



SALADS. 




ALADS are preparations of vegetables, fruits, nuts, meats 
and fish, which are dressed with oils, acids, salt, pepper and 
often mustard. Vegetables when eaten raw are apt to fer- 
ment in the stomach and the condiments used, such as vine- 
gar, pejDper, salt and mustard, aid in their digestion. The prejudice 
against the use of oil which is entertained by many people is jjroba- 
bly exaggerated, as it is a nutritious food and aids digestion, but 
medical authorities differ about its value. 

The vegetables used in salads should be very carefully cleaned, 
using ice cold water to wash them in, and they should be after- 
wards carefully dried in a towel. Do not break the leaves if you 
can help it, as that will make them wilt quickly. Putting lettuce, 
cabbage, celery, etc., into ice-cold water for 2 or 3 hours will make 
them crisp. Vegetable salads are best eaten at once after they are 
made, but chicken salad will keep a number of days in cold weather. 
As a knife when used on a vegetable salad will blacken it, and impair 
its crispness, it is better to avoid using one; use a wooden spoon to 
stir a salad, and stir no more than necessary. 

The freshest olive salad oil is the best to use. Cotton seed oil is 
often sold as olive oil, which is a fraud, but if sold at a fair price un- 
der its true name, its use is unobjectionable, as it is a nutritious vege- 
table oil. Melted butter is used instead of oil by some people, who 
say they like it better. While melted butter may do for family use, 
oil is the only thing for " state occasions." Arrange a salad on a plat- 
ter or in an earthen salad bowl; never put it in glass, as it looks 
disagreeably smeary when you begin to dish it out. 

As lettuce is necessary to so many salads, a word may be said 
about the proper way to prej)are it. It is quite apt to be infested 
with insects which penetrate even to the inner leaves, and therefore 
each leaf must be carefully washed and examined. Let it stand in 
very cold water an hour or longer, shake in a wire basket or coarse 
towel to free it from water, and put in the ice=box until serving time. 
An easier and quicker way than cutting lettuce for salad is to lay 6 
or 8 leaves together in the hand and twist and tear them apart; it is 
better to tear than to cut it. 

There is a common idea that salads are difficult to make and are 
principally adapted for the wealthy, or for special occasions. This 

203 



204 SALADS 

is a mistake, as they can be made from " left=over " vegetables, and 
so are economical, and they are easily i^repared when one knows how. 
The common people among the French use them almost daily, and 
to advantage. 

The vegetables used should be drained or dried thoroughly from 
the water, or the dressing v/hen applied will be watery, and spoil the 
salad. Do not prepare plain salads until wanted at the table; if 
prepared long beforehand, the lettuce withers, and the dressing 
becomes watery. 

There is an admirable Spanish proverb about dressing salads. 
It says it requires 4 persons to mix a salad; a spendthrift to throw 
in the oil, a miser to drop in the vinegar, a lawyer to add the sea- 
soning, and a madman to stir it together. 

To Fringe Celery. — A simple and convenient way to fringe celery 
stalks, is to take a cork, put many large needles in the end, and then 
cut the celery into pieces about 2 inches long, and draw about half 
of each strip through the needles a few times. When well shred- 
ded, i3ut away to become crisp in a cold place. Thus prepared it 
makes a good garnish for salads, meats, etc. 

To Marinate a salad, is to let it stand for a time to season, 
sprinkled with a French dressing. 

Although salads usually contain no flesh forming or heat giving material, they 
are valuable because they introduce into the system large quantities of saline mat- 
ter, which by the common method of cooking is generally removed from vegetables. 
For this reason they are of much value to the poorer inhabitants of our towns and 
cities. They should be cleaned very carefully so that no parasitic animals remain in 
them. The vegetables are best used when freshly cut, although some of their fresh- 
ness may be regained if the stalks are freshly cut and placed underwater. The salad 
dressing should not be added until the last moment. The French and Italians seem 
to best appreciate the value of salads. 

SALAD DRESSINGS. 
FRENCH SALAD DRESSING.— Mix 1 saltspoon salt and ^ 
saltspoon pepper; then mix in 3 tablespoons salad oil slowly, and 
1 tablespoon vinegar, and "pour it over the salad. If liked, ^ tea- 
spoon of onion juice can be added; some people also add 1 teaspoon 
of made mustard. Lemon juice or tarragon vinegar can be used 
instead of the vinegar if preferred. For a French dressing the 
standard proportion is to use 3 times as much oil as vinegar, but 
some jjeople use as high as 6 times as much oil as vinegar, and others 
as low as ^ as much. Tastes differ, and these rules are all variable. 

MAYONNAISE DRESSING.— Break the yolks of 2 raw eggs in 
a soup plate, beat smooth with a silver fork, and add oil, a few 
drops at a time, until it begins to thicken, when it can be added in 



SALADS 205 

larger quantities; but the stirring must be kept up constantly, and 
with a rapid motion. When it grows thick, add a few drojDS of vin- 
egar, beat smooth again, and then add 1 teaspoon of salt, a level 
saltspoon of mustard, and a dust of cayenne. The vinegar should 
be added a little at a time until 2 tablespoons have been used. The 
amount of oil depends on the quantity of dressing required, but a 
scant cui^ful will be an abundance for an ordinary salad. Should 
the mayonnaise curdle, or crack, as it is called, take another egg, 
add oil in small quantities until it thickens, and then stir in the 
curdled mixture, which will soon grow smooth and velvety in appear- 
ance. Take special pains in hot weather to have both ingredients 
and utensils ice cold. 

To color mayonnaise, lobster coral will produce a bright red, 
and spinach green or chopped parsley will color it green. 

BOILED DRESSING.- Take 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 tablespoon 
of mustard, 1 tablespoon of salt, 1 tablespoon of oil or butter; stir 
together until smooth, and then add 3 eggs and beat well; add 1 cup 
vinegar and 1 cup milk and cook in a double boiler to a smooth 
paste, stirring constantly. It will keep 2 weeks in a cool place. 

BOILED DRESSING No. 2.— Beat 3 eggs well; add | cup but- 
ter, 1 cup vinegar, 2 teaspoons lemon juice, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tea- 
spoon mustard, \ teaspoon cayenne pepper; boil until thick. 

CREAM DRESSING.— Rub the yolks of 2 hard^boiled eggs fine 
with a siDoon, stir in a tablespoon of melted butter, ^ teacup of thick 
sweet cream, a saltsj)oon of salt, a dust of cayenne, and vinegar 
enough to reduce all to a smooth, creamy state. Add a little mustard 
also, if liked, and pour it upon salad when ready for serving. 

EGG DRESSING.— Rub to a paste the yolks of 2 hard-boiled 
eggs. Add 1 teaspoon each of mustard, salt and sugar, with ^ tea- 
sijoon of pepper, drop in about 2 tablespoons of salad oil or sweet 
cream, and add 4 tablespoons of lemon juice. This is a nice dressing 
for canned salmon also. 

SALAD DRESSING WITHOUT OIL.— Rub till smooth the 
yolks of 2 hard= boiled eggs, add 1 teaspoon powdered sugar, \ tea-' 
spoon white pepper, 1 teaspoon of mixed mustard, \ saltspoon of salt 
and a pinch of cayenne ; mix thoroughly and add equal amounts of 
cream and vinegar until the mixture has the desired consistency. 
Rubbing the rind of a fresh lemon on a x^iece of loaf sugar, and dis- 
solving this in the vinegar before using it will be an improvement. 
Those who cannot eat salads containing oil can try tliis dressing. 



206 SALADS 

SWISS DRESSING. - Put 2 ounces of cheese in a mortar, pound 
it well, add 1 tablespoon vinegar, a small quantity of salt and 
pepper, and very gradually dilute it with salad oil. 

VEGETABLE SALADS. 
BOILED SALAD. — Boil celery and l)eans separately until ten- 
der, cut the celery into i)ieces about 2 inches long, put both into a 
salad dish and cover with one of the salad dressings previously given. 
Some people find salads indigestible when made with raw vegetables, 
and the cooked salads are more wdiolesome if less agreeable to the 
taste. A little boiled onion, boiled cauliflower, chopped lettuce, 
blanched endive or tarragon can be added if desired; also slices of 
cold meat, poultry or fish. 

ASPARAGUS SALAD. — Take boiled asparagus and dip it while 
warm into melted butter with which is mixed a little mustard and 
lemon juice or vinegar. The extreme ends need not be coated. Ar- 
range with the heads toward the center. It is better if iced before 
serving. Or (2) cut the tender parts of boiled asparagus into short 
lengths, and cover it with a mayonnaise dressing. 

BEET SALAD. — Cut cold boiled beets into pieces, and cover 
with any salad dressing. Celery or other vegetable may be added if 
desired. 

STRING BEAN SALAD — String young, green string beans, 
and cook till tender in salted water; then drain, cover with cold 
water, let stand till cold, drain and dry. Serve with or without let- 
tuce, and use a French dressing. Add a little onion juice, if liked. 

CABBAGE SALAD.— Chop a cabbage, and add a French, may- 
onnaise, or boiled dressing. 

CARROT SALAD — Into a salad bowl put 1 cup chopped celery, 
I cup boiled sliced carrot and 2 cups choijped cold veal; add a little 
finely chopped raw onion, season with salt, pepper and a very little 
melted butter, pour over | cup good vinegar and mix well. 

CAULIFLOWER SALAD.-Boil the cauliflower, cut in pieces, 
and cover with a French or mayonnaise dressing. A little parsley, 
boiled beets, carrots or tomatoes can be added if desired, and also 
cold tongue or other meat. 

COLD SLAW. — Take | cup vinegar, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 tea- 
spoon salt, I teaspoon mixed mustard, butter size of small egg; mix, 
stir until it boils,^ and when cold pour it over chopped or shaved cab- 
bage. Very nice. (The term '" cold slaw "' is derived from the Dutch 
Kohl'Slaw, meaning simply cabbage salad,) 



SALADS 207 

Cream Dressing for Cold Slaw — Take 2 tablespoons whipped 
sweet cream, 2 tablespoons sugar, 4 tablespoons vinegar. Beat well, 
and pour over cabbage previously cut very fine, and seasoned with 
salt. 

CREAM SLAW. — Chop a head of cabbage fine and sprinkle on 
a little salt; let it 'stand while you make the cream. Mix well 
together, and cook slowly until quite smooth and creamy, 1 table- 
sj)oon flour, 1 egg, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 tablespoon sugar, | teacup 
vinegar, | teacup sweet milk or cream; when done, pour over the 
cabbage. After you i)ut it in the dish, sprinkle with pepper. Excel- 
lent. If kept in a cool place will be nice for 1 or 2 days. 

HOT SLAW. — Chop a head of cabbage and put into the kettle, 
with a tablespoon of lard (or meat fryings) in the bottom, with 
enough hot water to keep it from boiling dry; add a little salt and 
pepper. When the cabbage is boiled tender, loeat 1 egg in a teacup 
^ full of vinegar, and then fill the cup with cream (sour cream will 
do as well as sweet); pour it over the hot cabbage, let stand 5 min- 
utes, and serve. Will cook in 1 hour. 

CELERY SALAD — Wash and wipe | dozen heads of celery. 
Cut with shears in a salad bowl. Mix the yolk of 1 egg, 1 teaspoon 
of mustard, a little salt and pej)per and the juice of 2 lemons with 2 
tablespoons of water. Stir well together, drop over it 3 ounces of 
salad oil, then add a spoon of hot water, and pour over the celery. 

Endive is used also for salads like celery. Endive is a native of China and 
Japan. It resembles sea=kale in flavor, being rather bitter, and it is used for salads 
and soups. It is not so tender as lettuce, but it makes an excellent winter salad. 

EsoAEOLE and Monk's=Beakd {Barbe de Capucin) belong to the same family as 
the endive. They can be made into salads alone, or mixed with sorrel, lettuce, etc. 
They make good winter salads, and also excellent salads to serve with game. The 
method is simply to cut them small, and, using 1 alone, or 2 or 3 different vegeta- 
bles mixed, to cover them with a good salad dressing. 

CHICORY OR SUCCORY SALAD.— Take a 

bunch of chicory cut small, add 1 boiled egg and 
1 onion cut fine, and pour over a good salad dre^ss- 
ing. 

Chicoky or SuccoEY belongs to the order compositce, 
and the leaves are blanched and used for salads, while the 
root is used to adulterate coffee. ohicoey. 

CREAMY SALAD. -Whip thick cream to a stiff froth; add to 
it some of the boiled salad dressing given among our dressings; have 
the salad dressing cold; use 2 or 3 times as much of the whipped 
cream as of the salad dressing. Have ready cold boiled potatoes 
cut into small dice, pour over the mixture and stir it together. It 
is more light and creamy than other salads. 




208 SALADS 

CUCUMBER SALAD — (1) Peel and slice fresh cucumbers, 
and let them stand in a bowl of water 2 hours, changing the water 
twice. When it is time to serve dinner, drain and chop the cucum- 
bers coarsely with a knife, and add 1 or 2 new onions, cut finely. 
Put in a salad dish, and send to the table without dressing. Serve 
in small saladj^lates and send it around the table with salad oil, vin- 
egar, salt and pepper. (2) Mix sliced cucumbers and new onions, 
sliced, and cover with a French dressing. 

DANDELION SALAD.— Choose that which is small and tender, 
cut off the root, wash carefully, drain and shake out the water, put it 
in a salad bowl and cover with a French dressing. 
Chives and chervil can be sprinkled on top, if you 
have them, before applying the dressing, or add a 
little sliced onion if liked, or lettuce or other vege- 
table. 




Chervil. — This is a plant the roots of which are poison- 
ous, but the leaves are tender and are used in salads. They 
emit an aromatic flavor and are often called myrrh by the 
peasantry of Scotland. The leaves are also used to flavor 
soups. 

UHKKVIli. 

LETTUCE SALAD. — Lettuce makes the foundation for many 
excellent salads. Prepare it as previously directed, and serve it crisp 
and cold. It can be served (1) alone with French or boiled dressing; 
or (2) mixed with celery cut into dice, and with a French dressing, 
which makes an excellent salad. It goes well (3) mixed with sorrel, 
with a French dressing, or (4) with chives, using the same dressing 
and garnishing with olives, or (5) with i3epper=grass and water-cress- 
es mixed, using a mayonnaise dressing, and garnishing with radishes. 
A few nasturtium blossoms for a garnish produce a brilliant effect. 
(6) A bed of lettuce covered with sliced cucumbers, and a layer of 
sliced tomatoes on top, covered with a mayonnaise or French dress- 
ing, makes a good salad. 

Lamb's Lettuce (also called Corn^salad or Fetticus) is a small annual plant, 
often used for salads. It comes early in the spring, and although inferior to let- 
tuce, it makes a fairly good substitute for it, and a good spring salad. 

OKRA SALAD. — Put it on top of a bed of jootato salad; sprinkle 
on mustard and cress and dress with oil, tarragon vinegar, salt, pep- 
per and a little grated horseradish. Another way is to mix siDrigs of 
cress, endive, young onions and radishes with okra, and cover with 
any salad dressing liked. 

PEPPERS SALAD. — Take boiled jjeppers, cut them into strips, 
add a few drops of onion juice and cover with a French dressing. It 
goes well w^ith hot or cold meats. 




RUSSIAN SALAD 



EGG SALAD 



BEET SALAD 



SALADS 209 

POTATO SALAD. — Cut cold boiled potatoes in dice and " ?»ar- 
mate'''' in a French dressing; chill thoroughly, then arrange in a 
tasteful manner, and garnish with parsley, chopped pickled beets, 
and hard-boiled eggs, sliced. For a quart of cut potatoes, a teaspoon 
of salt, a saltspoon of pepper, 3 tablespoons of oil, and 3 of vinegar, 
are required for the dressing, and 4 hard=boiled eggs. This is a 
tasteful dish of white, yellow, red, and green. 

POTATO SALAD, No. 2. — Chop 1 large or 2 small onions very 
fine; add 12 cold boiled potatoes and chop also; if lettuce is to be 
had, chop a head or more with the onion — if not, take the tender 
green leaves of a cabbage. Pour on the boiled dressing given among 
our dressings, and put curled lettuce around the edges and slices of 
cold boiled eg^g on top. 

POTATO SALAD WITH EGGS.— Cut cold potatoes finely, and 
mix with French salad dressing; place on a garnished j)latter, and 
cover with slices of hard=boiled eggs. Good for a luncheon or sup- 
per dish in hot weather. 

RUSSIAN SALAD — Cut up very small, equal quantities of any 
cold vegetables, adding lettuce, endive and cress, if you have them; 
add any cold flaked fish, mix all well in a bowl with mayonnaise 
sauce, turn out into the dish in which it is to be served, and garnish 
with olives, filleted anchovies and lemon jelly. 

SALAD IN JELLY. — Fill a mold with a lemon or other gelatine 
jelly; when cold, cut out most of the center, leaving a shell of jelly, 
fill it with salad, and serve. 

SALSIFY SALAD — Chop cold boiled salsify, and pour over it a 
French or mayonnaise dre.ssing. Or (2) it can be combined with 
other cold boiled vegetables, such as cauliflower, carrots, beans or 
potatoes, and then the salad dressing added. 

SPINACH SALAD. — Take cold boiled siiinach, mince fine, cover 
with a French salad dressing, and garnish with sliced hard-boiled 
eggs. It goes well with roast beef, mutton or game. 

SUMMER SALAD.— Thoroughly wash and drain 2 heads of let- 
tuce, the heads of 2 green onions, and a handful of the tops of freshly 
cut mustard and water cress; add a plain dressing, placing it under 
the vegetables and stirring well before using The mustard and cress 
are so highly flavored that a plain dressing is better than a more elab- 
orate one. 

U 



210 SALADS 

SWEET POTATO SALAD.— Boil 3 large sweet potatoes, and 
when tlioi'ougliiy cold rut them into half inch squares; cut into very 
small pieces 2 stalks of celery; mix with a seasoning of salt and pep- 
per, and pour over it a French dressing. 

TOMATO SALAD. — (1) Cut ripe tomatoes into slices, remove 
all the seeds, sprinkle on a French dressing, let them stand 2 hours 
on ice, and they will be ready to serve. (2) Another way is to peel 
the tomatoes, cut them in two, put a spoonful of mayonnaise dress- 
ing on each half, and serve. 

GELATINE SALAD. — Take a quart can of tomatoes, stew, 
strain, add a teaspoon of salt and f box of gelatine soaked in | cup of 
cold water, and then dissolved in | cup of boiling water; put it in 
cups and when set and cold turn them on to leaves of lettuce and 
garnish with mayonnaise dressing. 

RED VEGETABLE SALAD.~Use 2 cups each of cold boiled 
potatoes, cold boiled l)eets and raw red cabl)age. Cut the potatoes 
in thin slices, and the beets fine, and slice the cabbage as thin as. 
possible. Cover with a dressing made of 6 tablespoons of oil, 8 
tablespoons of red vinegar (that in which beets have been pickled) 2 
tablespoons of salt and -^ teaspoon pepper. Let stand in a cold place 
an hour before serving. 

VARIOUS VEGETABLE SALADS — Almost any cold vegetable 
may be used for salads, and this is an excellent way to utilize the 
remnants of vegetables left from dinner the day before. Take any 
one alone, or several vegetables mixed, and arrange them tastefully 
(with lettuce if you have it, without if not); cover with a French or 
mayonnaise dressing. Many varieties may thus be made by any 
housekeeper. 

WATER=CRESS SALAD — Pick over the leaves and remove 
bruised or wilted ones; if long, tear them into 2 inch lengths; if short, 
it is not necessary. Cold boiled beets, cut in dice, or chopped onion 
may be added. Use a French dressing. Water=cress makes one of 
the most wholesome of salads, and is remarkable for the amount of 
mineral matter found in it. 

The garden cress also makes an excellent salad. Cresses can be 
used alone, or mixed with cucumbers, tomatoes or onions for salads, 
and then cover them with a good salad dressing. 

WINTER SALAD.— Bake 1 Spanish onion and 1 large or 2 
medium sized beets; slice them and cut the slices in two twice; cut 
3 stalks of celery quite tine and mix with it 1 tablespoon of minced 



SALADS 211 

herbs; mix all together and set in a cool place till time to serve; 
then sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour over 1 tablespoon of 
butter and 3 tablespoojis of vinegar. 

MEAT, EGG AND CHEESE SALADS. 

BEEF SALAD — Take the crisp, small center leaves of 2 heads 
of cabbage lettuce; add |- lb. cold boiled, fresh lieef, cut in small 
pieces. Add or not, as preferred, a tablespoon of chopped sweet 
Spanish peppers. Serve with a plain salad dressing. 

Lamb Salad can be made the same way, by using instead of the 
beef, I lb. cold roast lamb, cut in small pieces. 

HAM SALAD. — Cut cold boiled ham into dice, lean and fat to- 
gether; mix with celery or lettuce and cover with a boiled dressing. 

CHICKEN SALAD — Take the meat of 2 large boiled chickens, 
free it from skin and fat and cut in dice; add an equal quantity of 
celery cut in dice, 3 olives, chopped, 2 teaspoons capers; make a 
dressing of 6 spoons salad oil, 2 tal)lespoons vinegar, 2 teaspoons salt, 
and a dash of red pepper; pour it over the salad and let stand several 
hours in the ice chest. Then arrange it on a platter in a mound, 
pour on a mayonnaise dressing, and garnish with lettuce, olives, 
beets and carrots cut in fancy forms. The chicken should be cooked 
the day before using so as to be thoroughly cold. (See "Veal 
Salad." ) 

Chicken Salad, No. 2 — Take the meat from 1 cold boiled chicken, 
and 2 teacups celery; do not chop either, but cut each into dice, and 
mix. Put 2 teacups cream into a sauce=X3an and boil; stir in 4 eggs, 
well beaten, until it becomes like thick corn=starch; put the sauce- 
pan into cold water and stir in ^ bottle Durkee's salad dressing, stir- 
ring to keep it from curdling; add vinegar to taste. When cold, 
pour over the chicken and celery. Excellent. 

TONGUE SALAD. — Chop a nicely cooked tongue fine, then add 
chopped celery and lettuce and the whites of eggs. Use a mayon- 
naise dressing, 

VEAL SALAD.— Boil tne veal until it is tender; let it become 
quite cold, cut it quite fine, and use as much chopped celery as veah 
Mix, after chopping, and just before serving pour over it a rich may- 
onnaise dresssing. (When a large quantity of chicken salad has to 
be made for a party, half the meat may be of veal, boiled in the 
chicken broth after that is done, and no one will ever know the 
difference.) 

SWEETBREAD SALAD.— Cut cold, boiled sweetbreads into 
cubes; chill it in the refrigerator for 1 hour, then add celery, cut 



212 . SALADS 

fine, arrange it on lettuce leaves and cover with a mayonnaise 
dressing. 

CHEESE SALAD. — Arrange lettuce in a salad bowl, sprinkle on 
arated cheese, and cover with a French dressing. 

CHEESE AND EGG SALAD.-^Put slices of hard boiled eggs in 
a dish, grate on nice cheese, add another layer of eggs, and so on 
alternately. Put a few capers and finely chopped pickles on top, 
pour a mayonnaise dressing over all and sprinkle grated cheese on 
top, Nice at picnics. 

EGG SALAD.— Put into a salad bowl the leaves of a head of let- 
tuce; slice 4 hard boiled eggs and add; mince 12 capers and sprinkle 
over the eggs, and cover with either a French or mayonnaise dress- 
ing. Or (2) slice cold boiled eggs, pour over a salad dressing, and 
garnish with lettuce. 

FISH AND SHELL FISH SALADS. 

FISH SALAD.— Take any cooked fish which has become cold, 
remove skin and bones, and fiake it or cut in pieces, and spread it on 
lettuce leaves. Cover with mayonnaise dressing. Finely picked sar- 
dines may be added if desired, and also some hard-'boiled eggs. Sal- 
mon is the favorite fish for salads, but almost any other will do. 
The fish can be mixed with cabbage or celery instead of lettuce, if 
more convenient. 

CRAB SALAD. — Take the meat of boiled crab, chop it, and mix 
a mayonnaise sauce with it. Clean the shells, put in the mixture, 
and garnish with parsley or cresses and sliced lemon. 

LOBSTER SALAD.— It is better to use large lobsters, as there 
is less waste than with small ones. Cut up the meat, and i^our on it 
oil and vinegar in the proportion of 1 tablespoon of oil to 3 of vine- 
gar, with pepper and salt, and let it stand in a cold place for 1 hour 
at least; this is called '' mm-inaiimf it, and serves to season it. At 
serving time, drain it from the oil and vinegar not absorbed, put it 
on a bed of lettuce, and cover with a mayonnaise dressing. Garnish 
it with the claws of the lobster and with ca^jers, pounded coral and 
parsley if you have them. It can be made without going through 
the marinating process, but we think that an improvement. 

OYSTER SALAD.— Use the small oysters, and just let them 
come to boiling in their own liquor; skim and drain in a colander, 
then on a cloth. For a pint of oysters, add 2 tablespoons of vinegar, 
2 of salad oil, with salt and pepper to taste; mix well, and set it in 



SALADS 213 

the ice=chest. Cut finely a i)int of nice white celery, and mix with 
the oysters just before serving; arrange it on a salad dish, garnish 
with the white leaves of the celery, and pour over it a pint of mayon- 
naise dressing. 

SALMON SALAD.- Put the meat of 1 can of salmon in a col- 
ander to drain; then carefully pick out any bones, skin, or unsightly 
bits. When well drained, put it in a bowl iu the ice chest until time 
to serve; make a mayonnaise dressing and keep that by itself in the 
ice chest. Have ready the hearts of nice head lettuce leaves in ice= 
cold water; just before serving put a heavy border of lettuce around 
the salad dish, cut the salmon finely, and place in the center, then 
pour the mayonnaise over the fish. Serve a few of the lettuce leaves 
with the salad to each person. The water from the lettuce must be 
thoroughly shaken off, or it will dilute the mayonnaise. Another 
way is to put 3 stalks of sliced celery into a salad bowl, add ^ lb. 
of canned salmon, arranging neatly. Use mayonnaise dressing, gar- 
nish and serve. 

SARDINE SALAD. — Drain the oil from a small box of sardines, 
laying them afterward on brown paper so that no trace may re- 
main of the oil in which they are preserved. Remove the skin and 
bones, and pour a little lenion juice over them. Lay them on a bed 
of lettuce, pour a plain French dressing over them, and garnish 
with 2 hard boiled eggs which have been chopped fine. 

SHRIMP SALAD.— Take 1 can of shrimp, break them into 2 or 
3 pieces each, add 2 sticks of celery, cut small, and 1 bunch of let- 
tuce, and cover with a mayonnaise dressing. Marinate the shrimps 
for 1 or 2 hours, after taking them from the can, if desired. . 

FRUIT AND NUT SALADS. 

Note. — Combinations of oranges, pineapples, bananas and other fruits sweet- 
ened with sugar, are often erroneously called '"fruit salads." Strictly speaking 
fruit salads are prepared with oil, and acid fruits, or those with a pronounced 
Havor, are the ones best adapted for salads. The coinjainations of fcuits above 
referred to belong properly with desserts, for which they are intended, and in our 
chapter on "Desserts" (which see) we give a great variety of such dishes. 

AGUACATE SALAD. — Pare the aguacate, cut it into thin rings 
add lettuce and sliced onion, if liked, and cover with a mayonnaise 
dressing. 

Aguacate is a fruit which comes from the West Indies, and is found in fruit 
stores dealing in foreign fruits. 

APPLE SALAD. — Take tart apples and slice them; chop young 
green onions, mix the two together, cover with a plain salad dressing 
and serve. 



^14 SALADS 

BARBERRY SALAD — Slice cucumbers, mix them with barber- 
ries, cover with a plain salad dressing and serve. Or (2) chop young 
onions, mix them with barberries and cover with a plain salad 
dressing 

CRANBERRY SALAD. — Mix cranberries with chopped young 
green onions, and cover with a good salad dressing. 

CURRANT SALAD.— Take nice tender lettuce, mix it with cur- 
rants and cover with a dressing made of 1 saltspoon of salt, 1 salt- 
spoon of pepper, and 3 tablespoons of salad oil. It is wholesome and 
refreshing. 

GOOSEBERRY SALAD. — Chop young onions, mix them with 
gooseberries, cover with a plain salad dressing and serve. Or (2) 
Sliced cucumbers can be mixed with gooseberries, and ' covered with 
plain salad dressing. 

GRAPE FRUIT SALAD Peel the fruit, remove the bitter 

white membrane, slice it, and pour over it a mayonnaise dressing 
It makes a good salad. 

FRENCH FRUIT SALAD — Use 2 oranges, 3 bananas, 24 large, 
firm, white grapes, 12 walnuts, 1 head lettuce and 1 cup mayonnaise. 
Peel the oranges, divide into lobes, cut each lobe into 3 pieces and 
remove the seeds. With a very sharp knife skin the grax)es and seed 
them. Slice the bananas with a silver knife, and shell and halve the 
walnuts. Arrange the fruit on choice and delicate lettuce leaves, 
cover with 1 cup of mayonnaise dressing and serve ice cold. 

MELON SALAD. — Take ice cold muskmelons (have them on 
ice for 5 or 6 hours ) ; open them, scrape out the seeds, divide into 
crescents, cut ofp the rind and green part, leaving the fully ripe 
l^ortion only; put these pieces in a bowl with bits of ice among them, 
pour on a French or mayonnaise dressing and serve. 

Watermelons which are lacking in sweetness may be served the 
same way. 

ORANGE SALAD. — Peel the oranges, slice them crossways, take 
out the seeds, and cover with a dressing made in the proportion of 3 
spoons of salad oil to 1 spoon lemon juice, and add salt and a dash of 
cayenne; flavor, if desired, with a little grated orange rind. Excel- 
lent with cold game, roast pork or poultry. 

LEMON SALAD. — Make as directed for orange salad, but add a 
little lettuce, and sprigs of mint or tarragon, if you have it. 



SALADS 215 

LIME SALAD — Make the same as directed for orange and 
lemon salad, only use limes instead of the other fruits. 

NUT SALAD.— Mix together 1 qt. of shredded lettuce, and 2 
cups chopped nuts; dress with a little mayonnaise dressing, arrange 
in fresh lettuce, and garnish with more mayonnaise. 

WALNUT SALAD. — Get the kernels as nearly whole as possible, 
and let them soak 2 hours in lemon juice; pick them out without 
draining, and serve on water cress or lettuce, with French dressing. 




VEGETABLES. 

N abundance and variety of vegetables are essential to perfect 
health. They furnish the mineral matters, alkalies and 
^^^ acids in which meat is deficient, and most of the carbohy- 
drates needed by the system. 
The lack of fat in vegetables should be supplied by using butter, 
or some other form of fat, with them all. A moment's thought will 
show our readers that in arranging a dietary the object is to supply 
the lack of any element in one article of food, by using with it some 
other food containing the missing element. Although the foods in 
every-day use thus supijlement each other, many people do not think 
of the jorincii^le involved. Why does butter go with bread? Because 
the gluten of the bread furnishes the albumenoid element needed by 
the body, while the starch sui^plies the carbohydrates, but bread it- 
self lacks fat, and the butter used supplies that. So meat and pota- 
toes go well together, the lean meat supplying the albumenoids, the 
])otato the carbohydrates, and the fat or butter furnishes the fats, 
the 3 together thus supplying the body with the 3 great food ele- 
ments which it needs. 

Vegetables when taken as food are valuable not only for the direct nourish- 
ment which they afford to the system, but also because they impart to the blood 
certain constituents which are necessary to maintain its highest purity. This has 
been amply proved by the appearance of such blood diseases as scurvy, etc., in cir- 
cumstances where vegetable food was not procurable for any length of time. Few 
people rightly estimate the value of vegetables to the system. One of the chief 
benefits derived from eating them comes from the salts which they contain, while 
they also introduce into the system some water necessary for digestion and assimi- 
lation, and afford the benefit of variety in food. It is much to be regretted that by 
the method of cooking vegetables which commonly prevails in this country the 
greater part of their salts are dissolved out by the water in which they are cooked, 
and this water is thrown away, only the vegetable itself being eaten. There seems 
to be a common impression that the water in which many vegetables are boiled is 
poisonous, but this is a most erroneous idea. 

In this connection we quote from Mr. Mattieu Williams: "I must add a few 
words in advocacy of further adoption in this country of the French practice of us- 
ing as potage (for soups, etc..) the water in which v«getables generally (excepting po- 
tatoes) have been boiled. When we boil cabbages, turnips, carrots, etc., we dissolve 
out of them a very large proportion of their saline constituents; salts which are 
absolutely necessary for tlie maintenance of health; salts without which we become 
victims of gout, rheumatism, lumbago, neuralgia, gravel, and all (he ills that hu- 
man flesh with a lithic acid diathesis is heir to; i.e.. about the most painful series of 
all its inheritances." To which we may add the recommendation to save vegetable 
broth, and utilize it for soup, sauce, etc. A rich soup can be made from the water 
in which potatoes have been boiled (if without their skins) by mashing 2 or 3. and 
adding a iittle thickening and seasoning and a little l)utter. The juices of other 
vegetables like cabbage, turnips, celery and most others, are palatable and work 

216 



VEGETABLES 217 

well into soups. Onions are an exception; they should be used sparingly, as flavor- 
ing, for those who like them, but a dish of boiled onions, served with the water they 
are boiled in, causes distressing flatulence often. They can be parboiled, the water 
changed once, and then eaten by most people without unpleasant digestive disor- 
ders. 

All green vegetables are best when they are grown quickly, in 
v/hich case they have less woody fibre. All green vegetables need to 
be eaten fresh. When fresh, vegetables will snap crisply. Peas 
picked in the early morning can be cooked the same day in about -| 
the time needed if they are kept 1 or 2 days longer, and their flavor 
is much better. Ears of green corn that are just filled, will, if plung- 
ed into boiling water as soon as gathered, cook in 10 minutes, or 
perhaps less, and if kept 1 or 2 days twice as much time will be 
needed, and they will not then be as tender and fine flavored. 

Very few vegetables are roasted; they are generally boiled. 
Those which contain saccharine matter, such as carrots, beet==root, 
parsnips, etc., are best cooked by steam, as boiling water dissolves 
out a large quantity of their nutritious ingredients. Vegetables, 
however, which contain much starch, as a rule, are best boiled, as by 
boiling, the granules of the starch are ruptured and partially dis- 
solved, and any volatile oils which may be present are expelled, as 
well as the confined air. We elsewhere explain how much cooking 
adds to the. digestibility of starch. 

All vegetables, with a few exceptions, should be put first into 
boih'iKj water which contains salt in the proportion of an even tea- 
spoon to every 2 qts. of water; the exceptions are old, dry, and partly 
dried vegetables, such as peas, beans of all kinds, and wilted vege- 
tables; the latter had better be thrown away if they do not become 
crisp after standing a few hours in cold water. 

How to Boil Vegetables.— While in boiling meat, the great point is 
not to have the water boil, but to have it simmer instead, the great 
point in boiling vegetables is not to let ilie boiling slop. Even if the 
boiling water could be raised above 212° the vegetable would be 
rather improved than injured thereby. Have plenty of water, espe- 
cially for greens of all kinds. Choose a sufficiently large kettle, and 
get it I full of boiling water in ami^le time; then the water will come 
to a boil more quickly when the vegetables are thrown in, for when 
the cold vegetables are first put in they will check the boiling. The 
quicker vegetables boil the greener they will be, and remember that 
freshly gathered vegetables do not require as long boiling as those 
which have been long kept. Experience will best tell you when the 
vegetables are sufficiently cooked. The rule should be to cook them 
until they are soft and tender, but no longer, because the starch cells 



218 VEGETABLES 

having then burst, they will l)eo-in to absorl) water, and the vege- 
table will become soggy, and loose flavor as \yell. If not sufficicidly 
done iheij are indigestible, and if teft too long theij become soggy. 
As soon as they are done, take them out and serve them. 

Remember then, that there is a right and a wrong way to boil 
vegetables. The essentials of the right way are: (1) to j^ut them 
into boiling water, which is slightly salted; (2) have j^lenty of it; (8) 
do not let the boiling stop until they are done; (4) take them out as 
soon as tJiey are done. The wrong way is the opposite of this — it is 
to use little water, let it sinime)- without really boiling, and to leave 
the vegetables in too long. If you will try the 2 methods once, the 
difference in the results and the superiority of the first method will 
be apparent. Asparagus, cauliflower and peas should boil, but the 
water should not l)ubble, as that tosses them around and breaks 
them. 

Time to boil. The age of the vegetal)le and the time it has been 
gathered affects the time needed to l)oil it, so that it is impossible to 
give the exact time needed to boil different vegetables. When old 
and wilted, more time is needed than when young and fresh. The 
best rule is to test them by piercing them with a fork, watch them 
closely, and cook until they are soft and tender, but no longer. 

The Pkinciples Involved in Boiling Vegetables. — These are not generally 
undei'stood. Each minute granule of starch, in its original state, is surrounded by 
a thin sheath of cellulose, much like the shell on a chestnut; this cellulose sheath is 
nearly insoluble in tlie digestive fluids, so that they cannot get at the starch inside. 
In boiling, the starch swells and bursts this sheath; the starch Ihus liberated is 
readily attacked by the digestive fluids, which turn it into sugar, and then it is as- 
similated by the system. The object therefore, in boiling any form of starch is 
merely to burst these cells, and that is best done by having the water as hot as 
possible, and by keeping it boiling actively as long as the article is in it. As soon 
as the starch cells burst, however, the vegetable should be taken out, as, if it is left 
ill longer, the starch will absorb water and deteriorate. When starch is improper- 
ly coc>ked its digestion is very difficult and much waste is caused the system, which 
is quite a loss even to one in good health; but for invalids it is particularly im- 
portant that the starch should be suitably cooked so as to be easily digested. The 
difference in the digestibility of different forms of uncooked starch is caused by 
the fact that the cellulose coating in some forms of starch is tougher than in others. 
When properly cooked, so that its cellulose sheath is burst open, all forms of 
starch are about equally digestible. 

In baking potatoes the heat of the oven causes the starch granules to swell and 
burst their sheaths, much as a chestnut or a grain of 2:)opcorn bursts open when 
roasted, thus liberating the starch. 

Overcoming the Odor of Boiling. — Various plans have been devised 
to mitigate the unpleasant odor caused by many vegetables while 
cooking. (1 ) Wrap a piece of bread about the size of a lemon in a 
cloth, and drop it in the kettle at the start; it will absorb the odor. 

(2) A lump of charcoal treated in the same way will absorb the odor. 

(3) Fold a towel to 3 or 4 thicknesses and lay over the kettle. (4) 



VEGETABLES ^Id 

A piece of red pepper, | inch in diameter, dropped in at the start, is 
used by some cooks. The essential oils are dissolved out of the veg- 
etable while cooking, and from this oil the odor comes. If the water 
is changed once or twice while the vegetable is cooking, it will be an 
advantage, but be sure the fresh water is boiling hot when put in. 
Changing the water while cooking also gets rid of some unwholesome 
sulphuric gases given out by cabbage and onion. 

Effect of Different Waters. — Many cooks do not understand the dif- 
ferent effects produced by hard and soft water; peas and beans esx)e- 
cially should be cooked in soft water if possible to obtain it (see 
"Rain Water Cisterns"), as hard water containing lime and gypsum 
harden vegetable casein, making them less digestible. With some 
vegetables, soft water extracts most of their flavor and salts; but the 
addition of a little salt partially remedies this. 

Hints. — Be very careful to wash vegetables thoroughly, and exam- 
ine them for insects. Spinach should be allowed to float on water in 
a deep vessel and then lifted out with the hand and placed in deep 
water in another vessel, in order to free it from sand. 

Any vegetables which are peeled should be thrown into cold 
water until wanted for cooking, to prevent their turning color. 

When possible, it is much better to boil the different vegetables 
by themselves; also, when such vegetables as cabbage, carrots, beets, 
onions, potatoes, parsnips or turnips are boiled with meat, the flavor 
of both the meat and the vegetable is injured. Not only this, but it is 
also better to store vegetables separately. Certainly the strong scent- 
ed vegetables, like onions, leeks and cabbage, should be kept apart, 
for delicate vegetables will be siDoiled in a short time, if near the 
strongly scented ones. 

Vegetables are much -cer boiled in slightly salted water, and 
then, when seasoned with butter, they are usually salted sufficiently 
for most persons ; the water being salted reaches a higher temperature 
before boiling, and secures better cookery of the vegetables. 

It is important that all vegetables should-go to the table as hot 
as possible, and 2 or 3 two^qt. tin basins are good to keep them in 
until ready to put them on the table; or they may, if an ore conven- 
ient, be kept in the kettles they were boiled in. Have the vege- 
table dishes (that will not bear standing on the back of the range to 
keep hot) standing ready on a table with hot water in them. For 
common use, heavy white nappies are good for dishing up vegetables, 
as they will bear standing on the back of the range, or in the edge 
of the oven, with the door open. In dishing up vegetables, drain 
them thoroughly from the water. 



220 VEGETABLES 

Vegetables which contain much sugar, like beets, turnips 
squash, pumpkins, etc., especially if they are not of the best quality, 
are improved by the addition of a little sugar — a fact overlooked by 
many cooks. Boiling deprives them of part of their sweetness, so add 
a little. 

Vegetables like lettuce and cabbage, which contain potash salts, 
are best eaten with a mild acid, like vinegar. It is usual to serve 
some condiment, like vinegar, salt, oil or pepper, with vegetables 
which are eaten raw, and wdiich may therefore ferment in the stom- 
ach. 

When, by reason of long keeping, the freshness of salads, greens, 
roots, etc., has been somewhat lost, it may be restored by putting the 
stems and roots in cold fresh water for 1 or 2 hours before dressing 
them, but the leaves should not be immersed, as that injures them. 

In winter, or after long keeping, tuberous vegetables like carrots, 
turnips, potatoes, etc., become wilted, and their flavor impaired; after- 
peeling and slicing, let them stand in cold water for several hours 
before cooking them, and it will restore their freshness. 

To shell beans easily, j)our upon the pods a quantity of scald- 
ing water, and the beans will slip out very readily. 

In boiling suet dumplings, to be served with meat, like a vegeta- 
ble, put a plate at the bottom of the kettle, as, when first put in, they 
will sink, and sometimes stick at the bottom of the kettle and burn 
When they swell with boiling, they get light and float. Puddings 
are always boiled in a cloth. 

ARTICHOKES. 
JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES.—Wash the roots thoroughly, 
scrai:)e oft' the skin, cut otf 1 end flat, and leave the other pointed. 
Boil until soft, in water containing a little salt, and a few drops of 
vinegar. Cook until Soft, but do not leave longer, or they will be- 
come hard again. Take them up carefully, put them in the vegeta- 
ble dish, and ijour over them scalded cream, or serve with a white 
sauce. They can also be chopped coarsely and served as a salad, 
with a salad dressing. Time to boil about, 20 minutes. 

GLOBE ARTICHOKES.— Cut off the outside leaves, trim away 
the lower ones, and boil in salted water containing a few drops of 
vinegar; boil about 1 hour, drain, take out the choke, and serve with 
drawn butter poured over them. 

FRENCH ARTICHOKES, FRIED. -Wash and trim the arti- 
choke heads, and cut them into thin slices; place in cole] water with 
a little salt and vinegar added; this should be done 15 or 20 minutes 



VEGETABLES 221 

before frying them. Drain, and wipe them dry; make a batter with 
3 eggs, 2 tablespoons of salad oil, and 2 tablespoons of flonr, seasoned 
with salt and pejjper; mix the sliced artichoke thoroughly with the 
batter, then fry in hot fat, being careful that the artichoke is cooked 
through as well as browned. 

CANNED ARTICHOKES should be placed in ice=cold water for 
15 minutes before serving them. The dressing to accompany them 
is made by mixing 2 large sjpoons of vinegar with 1 of chopped 
parsley, a little salt and pe^Dper, and 8 spoons of good salad, oil. 

Aetichokes. — There are two vegetables called by this name, both belonging to 
the order Compositce. The Jerusalem artichoke, {Helianlhus tuberosus) is said to be 
a native of Brazil, but has long been naturalized in this country. Its name is a 
corruption of the Italian girasole (sunflower). The flowers are like the common 
sunflower, only smaller, and the roots, something like potatoes in shape and size, 
are cooked as a vegetable, and sometimes used for pickles. This plant is perren- 
nial, and when once planted in a rich soil can be dug early 
every spring; the small roots left in the ground will keep 
the crop growing year after year. 

r/te globe, or French artichoke, so called (Cynara Scols- 
miis) is a native of Asia, but is naturalized in this country. 
The flowerbuds and upper part of the stalks are used for a 
vegetable at table, and are cultivated from suckers placed in 
rows 3 feet apart. Artichokes contain 80,'« of water; 2 of 
albumenoids; 16^ carbohydrates; 0.5% fats; 1% mineral mat- 
ters. 

The Cardoon {Cynara Sardimcuhts) is a native of south 
ern Europe, and much resembles the artichoke. It has pur- 
ple flowers, and is grown, blanched and eaten like celery. 

ASPARAGUS. 
A LA FRANCAISE — Wash and boil the asparagus until tender 
— about 15 to 25 minutes; drain them, cut off the heads and about 2 
inches of the white part of the stalks; mince them with a knife, and 
mix them with a small onion cut finely; add the yolk of an qq^ well 
beaten, with salt and p)epper to taste; make it hot in a stew pan, and 
dish it up on a platter, with nicely browned, buttered toast. 

BUTTERED ASPARAQUS.-^Pour boiling water over a bunch 
of asparagus, then untie the bundle and lay it in a large frying=pan; 
cover with boiling water, sprinkle on a very little salt, cover, and 
cook 20 or 30 minutes— do not coolr until the heads break off. When 
done, pour off the water, lift the pieces carefully by the hard end of 
the stem, lay them in a flat vegetable dish, place bits of butter on the 
asparagus, set in the oven until the butter is melted, and send to the 
table. 

CREAMED ASPARAGUS— Wash and cut asparagus in inch 
pieces until the hard part of the stem is reached, stew 15 minutes in 
slightly salted water; then drain in a colander. Make a rich cream 
sauce and pour over. Or use drawn butter. 




222 VEGETABLES 

STEAMED ASPARAGUS — There is another method of boiling 
asparagus, rarely practiced by American cooks. It is to take the 
stouter varieties, cut them of exactly ecjual lengths, and stand them 
on end in a deep sauce=pan, with the heads projecting about 2 inches 
out of the water; then cook 80 to 40 minutes. By this plan at least 
^ more of the stalk will be rendered delicious, while the head will be 
properly cooked by the steam. Then season, and serve. This is 
especially adapted to the " giant " and stouter varieties. 

Asparagus is a native of Europe, and is sometimes vulgarly calleel sparrow- 
gr-ass. It is wholesome, but not very nutritious, and has been used in medicine, 
being a diuretic, and aperient. The cellular tissue contains a substance similar to 
sago. Its jaice composed of a peculiar crystallizable principle called asparagin, 
albumen, mannite, malic acid and some salts. 

To avoid getting the woody white part, which is not made tender by boiling, 
asparagus when gathered can be snapped off, instead of cutting it. 

BEANS. 
SHELLED.— Shell, wash and boil until tender, adding salt 
after they have boiled about 10 minutes. If i^ossible, always cook 
them in soft water. They should boil at least an hour. Season with 
salt and butter. Add hot cream to Lima or any white beans. 

FRENCH BEANS.— Soak them over night, then parboil them 
until the skins loosen, change the water, and when they are cool, rub 
ofp the skins; put them back in the pot with fresh water to just cover 
them, and boil until they begin to break in pieces; then drain, 
sprinkle a little salt and pepper over them, and bits of butter. Set 
the dish in the oven to get hot; then send to the table. Ti)iic to boil 
if very young 10 to 12 minutes; if older 15 to 20 minutes. 

STRING BEANS. — The bean pods should be tender enough to 
snap off short when bent. Pull off the string- on each side, and break 
in pieces | inch long. Boil in slightly salted water. A few thin 
slices of salt pork can be put in or not, as desired. It takes a full 
hour to cook them well, and may take 3 with some varieties. Drain, 
and season with Initter and pe^jper or butter and cream, and a little 
more salt if needed. It is a good plan to change the water once 
while they are boiling, as that gets rid of part of an unwholesome 
gas which they yield in boiling. 

DELICIOUS BAKED BEANS.— Take about 3 pints of the small 
white beans, wash, and then soak them over night. Do not boil, but 
put at once in the baking dish and add a piece of salt pork that has 
been scalded, or if beef is preferred, use a piece of the brisket. Add 
salt, and a little pepper, and 2 or 3 tablespoons of molasses. Place in 
the oven, with plenty of water to cover, early in the morning, and let 



VEGETABLES 223 

cook all day. Do not allow them to cook dry. A teaspoon of mustard 
is sometimes added with the molasses; it adds to both the flavor and 
wholesomeness of the beans when done. 

NEW ENGLAND BAKED BEANS.— Pick over and wash, 1 pint 
of beans, i)ut them into 2 cj^uarts of cold water and let them stand 
over night. The following morning drain otf all the water, and put 
them into an earthen bean pot — which comes for this purpose — with 
2 tablespoons of molasses, a teaspoon of salt, a little pepper, half a 
pound, salt pork — quite fat and till the pot up with boiling water 
and bake from 8 to 10 hours in a good steady oven; keep the pot well 
filled with water, till 2 hours before serving, and then allow it to 
simmer away one^half at least. You will find them delicious- if di- 
rections are strictly followed. 

Beans are supposed to be a native of the East, particu- 
larly of Egypt, but have been known in Euroj>e from time 
immemorial, having, in all probability, been introduced by 
the Romans. The common dwarf kidney bean, erroneously 
called the French bean, is a tender annual, a native of India, 
and was introduced into Enrope in 1597, or perhaps earlier. 
AH varieties of the bean are wholesome and nutritious, but 
are not suitable to persons with delicate stomachs or of sed- 
entary habits. They are best eaten with fatty or starchy 
foods, like bacon or rice. If bean flour was to be had as 
wheat flour is, n much larger proportion of the nutrient 
parts of beans could bs assimilated, experiment havingf 
shown that 91% of bean flour was digested, and only 40^ of ritENCH beans. 

the nutritive parts were assimilated as ordinarily prepared. 

If beans are well cooked and passed through a sieve, it will divest them of their 
indigestible skins, or cellulose. 

The Pulses, which include lentils, beans and peas, are among the most 
nourishing of foods. Owing to the large amount of nitrogenousrnatter which 
they contain, they should be accompanied, when eaten, witli articles in which fat 
and starch abound, The nutritive value of these articles is somewhat deteriorated 
by the fact that they are rather difTicult of digestion. They sometimes occasion 
flatulence, and have a stimulating, heating effect on the system. They should 
never be eaten without being thoroughly cooked. 

BEETS. 

BOILED. — These should be washed clean, and the tops and tips 
cut closely, but do not peel them nor prick the skin, as the juice will 
then escape and injure both the color and flavor. Cook until tender 
in boiling water Young beets will cook in about an hour; fully 
grown ones take 2 to 4 hours; the very largest are not suitable for the 
table, as they are ajjt to be tough and tasteless. When done, i)ut them 
in cold water and rub ofp the rind; then slice, initr in a vegetable 
dish, and cover with vinegar; or serve with a butter or white sauce. 
For a "boiled dinner'' cook them by themselves; they are peeled 
after cooking, cut in slices, and served without dressing. They are 
also cut in fancy pieces and tised to garnish various dishes. They 
are also used for salads mixed with other vegetables. 




224 VEGETABLES 

CREAMED BEETS.— First boil in unsalted water until ten- 
der; rub off the skins with a wet towel, and serve at once in hot 
cream sauce, which can be made while they are boiling. (See 
"Cream Sauce.") 

BEET GREENS. — Beet greens are boiled whole, the beets with 
the tojjs, while they are young. Put into slightly salted boiling 
water, and boil for an hour. When the little beets are done, the 
tops are done also. Sometimes thin slices of salt pork are cooked 
with them. When done, take up into a colander and drain well, cut 
through several times with a knife, so that they can be served with 
a spoon, and send to the table in a vegetable dish. They are usually 
eaten with vinegar. If no pork is boiled with them, they can be 
seasoned w^ith a little butter, and a very little vinegar, about a table- 
spoon to a medium-sized vegetable dish. They can be served hot or 
cold. 

The beet root is a native of the shores of the Mediterranean. It is wholesome 
and nutritious, and is chiefly characterized by the large amount of starch, sugar, 
and alkaline salts which it contains. 

BRUSSELS SPROUTS. 
BOILED. — Pick otf all dead or discolored leaves, and soak in 
cold salted water 1 hour before cooking; then put them in boiling 
water containing a little salt and soda, the latter to preserve their 
green color; leave the kettle uncovered, and boil briskly until tender. 
Drain and send to the table at once, as they cool quickly. Serve 
with melted butter or maitre d'hotel sauce. Time to boil, 10 to 15 
minutes. 

SAUTED. — Take 1 qt. of sprouts, remove loose, hanging leaves, 
and soak |- hour in cold water; then wash and boil 
h hour in 2 c^ts. of water, adding 1 teaspoon of salt, 
after the first 10 minutes; then drain off all the 
water, and add 3 tablespoons of butter, 1 teas^Doon of 
sugar, 1 teaspoon of flour, -^ teaspoon of pepper, and 
1 teaspoon of salt; shake the pan over the fire 3 or 4 
minutes, or until the sprouts are slightly colored. 
Serve at once in a warm dish. 

Brussels Sprouts is a variety of the cabbage, and is so 
named because the seed was obtained from Belgium in former Brussels spkouts. 
times. It grows from 3 to 5 feet in height, the stalk terminat- 
ing in a large, cabbage=like head, and the stem being covered with the sprouts. 

CABBAGE. 
BAKED. ^-Boil a firm white cabbage for 15 minutes, changing 
the water once; drain and set aside until cold; then chop finely, and 




VEGETABLES 225 

add 2 beaten eggs, butter the size of an egg, pepper and salt to taste; 
stir all together and bake in a buttered pudding dish until brown. 
This is economical, good and nourishing. It is sometimes covered 
with bread crumbs, moistened with white sauce, and then baked. 
Time to bake, about ^ hour. 

BOILED CABBAGE.— Cut it in quarters, soak 30 minutes in 
salted water; then boil rapidly, uncovered, until tender, but no 
longer, in slightly salted water; push it down with a spoon as it rises 
above the water; it should boil in about 25 to 30 minutes. When 
done, take it up, drain, put it in a vegetable dish, and put bits of 
butter over it with a little salt. Remember that the secret of boiling 
cabbage is to boil it rapidly, uncovered, and in plenty of water, and 
boil until tender, hut no longer. If boiled longer it becomes wilted, 
yellow, and loses flavor. Try cabbage thus cooked and see how 
much better it is than when cooked in the old w^ay. If the water it 
is boiled in is not very soft, add to each 4 quarts of water 1 saltspoon 
of baking soda, but no more. 

FRIED CABBAGE.— Chop cold white cabbage quite fine; stir in 
some melted butter to taste, pepper and salt, and four tablespoons 
of milk or cream; after it is heated through add 1 or 2 well-beaten 
eggs, according to quantity of cabbage; then turn the mixture into a 
welbbuttered spider, and fry about 5 minutes, or until a light brown 
on the under side. Place a hot dish over the pan, which must be 
reversed when turned out to serve. 

CABBAGE AND MILK.— Cut the cabbage into very fine slices, 
take out the coarser veins carefully; put it in a tin sauce^pan, over 
a slow fire, add milk enough to cover entirely, and simmer very 
slowly 2 hours. Grate some nutmeg over it before serving, and add 
a good sized lump of butter. Thus cooked its coarseness disappears, 
and it almost equals cauliflower. Very few people know how good it 
is thus prei^ared. 

COLCANNON — Take equal parts of cold cabbage and cold pota- 
toes; cut all together well with a knife; fry salt pork, and when the 
pork is crisj), put the cabbage and potato into the fat; season with 
pepper, and a little more salt, if needed; cover closely with a plate 
and let it steam in the pan for |- hour. Do not stir it until you take 
it up, then stir all together, and serve hot, with the pieces of crisp 
pork around the edge of the j)latter. A little onion may be added to 
this, if liked. 

15 



226 



VEGETABLES 



A Hint. — The young white leaves of a white4iearted cabbage 
chopped fine, are a fairly good substitute for lettuce when the latter 
is scarce. 

The botanical order, CruciferiB, is a most important one, in furnishing various 
nitrogenous, and therefore higiily nutritious dishes for our use; cabbage, cale, cau- 
liflower, brocoli, Brussels sprouts, turnips, all belong to this order. For salads 
and relishes we have cresses, pepper-grass, scurvy=grass, wild pepper^root, rad- 
ishes, horseradish and cardamine. Cabbage contains 90$^ of water, and is more 
wholesome than nourishing. Its tendency is to purify the blood, and it is partic- 
ularly serviceable in cases of skin disease, but should be avoided by all who are 
subject to flatulence and diarrhea. It is long in digesting, and is best fitted to 
robust and active persons. Cabbage eaten raw as a salad is more wholesome than 
when cooked. Cabbage and cauliflower contain more gluten than other vegeta- 
bles, and for that reason they should be eaten with fatty foods. A mild acid, like 
vinegar, aids their digestion. 

CAULIFLOWER AND BROCOLI. 

BOJLED. Cut cauliflower where it begins to branch, place it, 
head down, in cold salted water for an hour; this will take out 
hidden insects if there are any; rinse it up and down several times. 
Put in a kettle with enough slightly salted boiling water to cover, 
and boil till tender — time 15 to 25 minutes according 
to size. Do not let the water bub1)le and boil so vio- 
lently as to make the cauliflower jump about, as that 
will break it. It is sometimes tied in a muslin bag; 
if not, skim the water. When done, i)ut it in a colan- 
der to drain well, and at the same time keep it hot. 
Then cut it coarsely with a knife, put it in a vegetable 
dish, put a few lumj^s of butter over it, and send to 
the table. Or instead of the butter pour over either a 
bechamel, Hollandaise or cream sauce. It is used also 
for garnishing chicken or sweetbreads, or for salads. 

ESCALLOPED CAULIFLOWER. -Boil as directed 
above. Then put in a baking dish, pour over a thick 
drawn butter sauce, s^jrinkle with bread crumbs, put in 
the oven and bake until brown — about 10 to 15 minutes. 
Sprinkle on grated cheese, also, before baking, if 
desired. 

BROCOLI. — This, both white and purple, is only a ukocoli. 
variety of the cauliflower, and is cooked in the same ways. 

Caulifowee is only a form of the wild cabbagein its cultivated state. Cauli- 
flower has been known since the times of the Greeks and Romans. It is a whole- 
some, but not particularly nourishing, article of food; it is difficult of digestion, 
and ought to be avoided by those who have delicate stomachs, but, on the whole, 
it is less indigestible and vichev in flesh^formers than cabbage. 




CAULIFLOWEE. 





VEGETABLES 227 

CARROTS. 

BOILED. — Wash, scrape, not pare, cut into strips, barely cover 
with boiling water, and as soon as they begin to boil put in a little 
butter; as soon as tender add some minced parsley and serve. They 
need to boil longer than most vegetables. Tu)ic, 1 hour or more 
according to age. They are often boiled with corned beef. 

Another way is to cut lengthwise, boil until 
soft and slice thin. Put in sauce=paii with 2 
tablespoons of butter and 1 cup of milk. Season 
with salt, pepper and a little sugar; stew 15 min- 
utes and serve. 

CARROTS WITH CREAM— Cut the carrots 
in thin slices; boil in water until almost tender; 
then pour the water ofp and add butter; fry them a 
little; then add a few spoons of cream; season 
with salt and pepi^er and serve very hot. 

CARROTS. 

Carrots grow in all parts of the jrlobe. They are one of 
the most important vegetables used in domestic cookery, and their flavor renders 
them valuable in soups, stews and sauces, but they are not ]iarticularly nourishing 
as it requires 2 lbs. of carrots to produce 1 oz.- of the nitrogenous substance of 
muscle and flesh. They contain pectine (a gelatinous substance) instead of starch, 
and hence soups containing them become gelatinous when cold. For 1 part of 
flesh^formers they contain 10 of heat=givers. 

CELERY. 

Many peojjle throw away the outside green stalks of celery, not 
knowing that it makes a very savory dish when stewed. Take all the 
tine white stalks, wash well and serve; the remainder break into 
short pieces, pulling otf all the stringy outside. Put the pieces in a 
stew pan, cover well with boiling water, and boil -| hour. Make a 
cream or drawn butter sauce, pour it over the celery, and serve. 

BAKED CELERY.— Take a qt. of veal stock, and, having par- 
boiled a pro^oer amount of the stalks, put them into a baking=dish. 
Rub together 2 spoonfuls of butter and 2 of flour, smoothly, then 
beat in the yolks of 3 eggs, and stir these into the veal broth, and 
pour it over the celery. Lastly, cover the top with finely grated 
bread crumbs, and then with grated cheese. Bake 10 minutes ii> a 
quick oven. This is one of the most delicious forms in which celery 
can be put upon the table. 

FRIED CELERY — After cutting it into inch lengths, and boil- 
ing till tender in slightly salted water, dip the pieces in fritter batter 
and fry in smoking hot fat. Garnish with parsley, and serve with 




228 VEGETABLES 

tomato sauce. Or sprinkle the pieces with salt and nutmeg; then 
egg and bread=crunib them and fry the same way; 
drain on a sieve and serve on a napkin. 

Cel3ry grows wild nearly all over Europe, growing chiefly 
in ditches and marshes near the sea, and when wild is called 
SinaUage. Smallage was tirst, cultivated by Italian gardeners 
and the result of their labors was the production of two plants, 
Celery and Celeriac. The latter variety (often, also, called Ger- 
man or knob celery) is turnip shaped, and large, and is exten- 
sively used by the Germans, who prefer it to the variety we 
commonly use. In its raw state, it is not suited to persons of 
weak stomachs, but is more easily digested when cooked. 
Celery has medicinal properties, and is used as a corrector of 
bilious conditions, and as a tonic for the nervous system. It 
contains about i)3 per cent, of water, 1 of albumen, 2 of sugar, 1 
of mineral matter, and 2 of starch, etc. celeky. 

COKN. 

BOILED. — Green corn when in proper condition for boiling 
should be well filled out, but still in the milk, so that it will exude 
freely when pressed with the nail. It should be put when freshly 
gathered into slightly salted boiling water, and as soon as its milk 
thickens, and the raw taste is gone, it should ])e taken up, as longer 
cooking hardens it and injures its flavor. Corn for fritters, pud- 
dings, etc., may be a trifle older, but never out of the milk. 

To cut corn from the cob the best way is to stand it on the small 
end, and with a sharp knife cut off about half the kernel; then with 
the back of the knife press and scrape out the remainder with a 
downward stroke. If scraped with the sharp edge it will carry many 
of the hulls with it, and they are not wanted. This is the best 
method of cutting off corn for canning or any purpose. 

DRIED CORN. -Select corn that is right for boiling, and boil 5 
minutes in slightly salted water; then cut and scrape from the cob as 
above, and dry in the oven in shallow pans or on plates. Pack in 
paper bags, and hang in a dry x)lace or it will mold. It sours easily, 
and the drying process should not be long. To use it, soak over 
night, and then cook like green corp. Season with butter, cream, 
pepper and salt to taste, and serve. 

BAKED CORN. — Take 48 full ears of sweet corn, cut and scrape 
from the ears as above, and then jjound in a mortar; add (according 
to the juiciness of the corn) 8 or 4 cups of milk, 4 well beaten eggs, 
^ teacup butter, the same of flour rul)bed .fine in a little milk, 1 
tablespoon of sugar, and salt to taste. Pour into a well greased 
earthen dish, bake 2 hours till browned on top, and place on the 
table hot. Eat with plenty of fresh butter. 



VEGETABLES 229 

CORN CHOWDER. — Take 1 can of corn, or the same amount of 
green corn cut from the cob, 2 oz. pork fried brown and chopped, 6 
potatoes sliced thin, 1-^- quarts water; cook until the potatoes are 
done — about 25 minutes; then add 2 cups milk, and butter and salt 
to taste. 

ESCALLOPED CORN — Cut corn from the cob, spread a layer in 
a basin, season, put on a layer of sliced tomatoes, season, and so on 
with alternate layers, seasoning each layer; then till the dish with 
rich milk in which a little soda is dissolved, and bake 1 hour. 

FRIED CORN — Select roasting ears, cut the corn from the cob, 
add salt and pepper, put it in a large pie4in containing hot butter, 
set where it will cook slowly, and fry, stirring it often. If it should 
stick to the pan add a very little water, but not otherwise. 

CORN OYSTERS.— Cut, the corn from B ears, add to it 1 well 
beaten egg. 1 tablespoon of sweet milk, a little salt, and then flour 
enough to make a pretty stitf batter; drop a spoonful at a time into 
smoking hot fat, and fry a delicate brow^n. 

GREEN CORN PUDDING.-Take the pulp from 2 doz. ears of 
corn, 1-i- quarts of new milk, 2 crackers rolled fine, 3 eggs, 2 teacups 
sugar, and a little salt. Mix the crackers with the milk, then put in 
the corn and other ingredients; bake slowly 21 hours. Serve warm 
with butter and pepper. 

CORN SOUFFLE— Take 2 cups of canned corn, 2 cups of milk, 
2 eggs, salt to taste. Beat the eggs until very light; add the other 
ingredients; put the mixture in a buttered pudding=dish, and bake 
about 40 minutes. 

STEWED CORN. — Cut young corn from the ear, put it in a 
basin, cover it with milk, and cook | hour, stirring it frequently; 
then season to taste, with butter, pepper and salt, add some rich 
cream in which a little corn-starch is stirred, and serve. 

SUCCOTASH. — Boil or steam the corn and cut it from the cob; 
allow 2 cups corn for 1 cup beans! Any good, fresh shelletl l^eans 
may be used; they should be boiled by themselves, in slightly salti'd 
water, until they begin to break; then drain them in the colander, 
mix them with the corn, and season to taste, with cream, butter, 
pepper and salt. 

Indian corn is a native of America, where it was cultivated by the aborio-ines 
before the difcovery of America by Columbus. There aie many varieties ol the 
plant, and the grains vary in cotor, but the yellow is the most common. Althouijh 
ti is deficient in gluten it is richer than other grains in oily and fatty matter; but 



230 VEGETABLES 

the constituent elements of the different varieties vary a good deal. It is highly 
nutritious, and rivals rice and sugar cane in its importance to the human family. 
It is a very important article of consumption alike for man and beast. Uwing to 
its lack of gluten it is not sufQciently sticky to hold together well, and so does not 
make good bread. Corn=meal is not suitable for an exclusive diet, but it makes a 
very valuable addition to our food • resources, and is more fattening than wheat 
flour. 

CUCUMBEKS. 

These are usually served raw, cut in slices, and served with 
pej)2.3er, salt and vinegar, and onions are sometimes added. Three 
or 4 hours before serving they should be peeled, sliced and placed 
in a large bowl of water to stand 1 or 2 hours; then the water 
should be poured off, and fresh, cold water added, and just before 
sending to the table, the water should be changed again. Serve in 
salad dishes, and send around with them, salt, black pepper, vinegar 
and oil, to be added by each person as preferred. Thus served, 
they are not so likely to prove indigestible as when served, as they 
sometimes are, by slicing wilted cucumbers a few minutes before a 
meal, sending to the table in the first water they are placed in, and 
strong vinegar and salt added to that, which causes them to wilt 
still more; served in the latter way, it is no wonder that people 
say, " I cannot eat cucumbers — they always distress me." 

BOILED. — After paring the cucumbers, and slicing about | inch 
thick, boil them about 12 minutes in slightly salted water, con- 
taining a little vinegar. Serve with drawn butter or Hollandaise 
sauce. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS — Peel and slice them, and soak in cold 
water an hour; this takes out the gummy cptalities of the plant; 
then drain and dry the slices on a cloth; dip the i)ieces in egg, 
then in flour, and fry a delicate brown in smoking hot fat. 

STEWED CUCUMBERS.— Peel and slice fresh young cucum- 
bers, and soak them an hour in cold water; then put them in a 
stew=pan with just sufficient water to cover them, and let them boil 
until soft— about ^ hour; then take off the cover, to let them dry 
down a little, dredge in a little flour, to thicken the water they were 
stewed in, add a piece of butter, with seasoning of salt and pepper. 
Sweet cream can be used instead of butter, if one has it, and it is 
much better. 

The cucumber is a native of Asia, and it has been cultivated from very early 
times. It is not very nutritious, and, generally speaking, it is not suited to weak 
stomachs, as it is indigestible and disagrees with many when eaten raw, but when 
stewed, it is light and wholesome. It contains about 96 per cent, of water, some 
grape sugar, and a little volatile flavoring matter. 



VEGETABLES 



231 



EGG PLANT. 

BAKED — Pare, slice and boil till tender, in slightly salted 
water; then drain, mash, and add bread crumbs soaked in milk, 
and season with salt, pepper, a little butter and minced parsley; 
beat together, put into a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle bread 
crumbs on top, and bake a nice brown. Time, altogether, about 1\ 
hours. 

FRIED.— Cut in slices without j^aring, sprinkle on salt, pile 
them up, and weight them with a flat iron or other weight; let stand 
about an hour and it will squeeze out much of their bitter flavor; 
rinse them off in cold water, drain, dip in cracker or bread crumbs, 
then in beaten egg, then in crumbs again, and fry brown in a fry- 
ing-pan. They are sometimes dipped in batter and then fried. 

Egg Plant belongs to the order Solanacece, which includes also tobacco and 
potatoes. All varieties of this order contain a bitter, more or less poisonous juice. 
The egg plant is indigenous to the East Indies. There are several varietes; one 
of which is the Dead Sea apple. 

ENDIVE. 

STEWED ENDIVE — Wash and free 6 heads of endive thor- 
oughly from insects, remove the green part of the leaves, and put it 
into boiling water slightly salted. Let it remain for 10 minutes; 
then take it out, drain until there is no water remaining, and chop it 
very fine. Put it into a stew=pan with 1 pint of liroth; add a little 
salt and a lump of sugar, and boil until the endive 
is perfectly tender. When done, it may be ascer- 
tained by squeezing a piece between the thumb 
and finger, add a thickening of butter and flour, and 
1 tablespoon of lemon juice; let the sauce boil x\p. 
and serve. Time to boil, 10 to 15 minutes. 

Endive is said to be a native of China and Japiin. 
It has long been cultivated as a garden vegetable, and 
used for salads and soups. It is slightly narcotic, and has 
a bitter taste, on account of which some people dislike it 
very much while those who like it call it a fine bitter. 

GREENS. 

Dandelions are most conunonly used for greens, either alone or 
mixed with other herbs, as plantain, young milk weeds, scurvy=grass, 
beet tops, horseradish tops, and the young shocjts of poke or gorget; 
the roots of the latter plant are a violent cathartic, and should never 
be used. Wash and examine all herbs used for greens, and then 
boil them till tender in slightly salted water. A little baking soda 
added to the water in which the greens are cooked will preserve 




232 VEGETABLES 

their color, and it also softens the cellulose. Salt pork is commonly 
boiled with them, but they are rather more wholesome boiled with- 
out it. When done, drain them in a colander, and while draining 
cut them through and through in every way, to facilitate serving 
them; then put them on a j)latter, season with butter and salt, and 
send vinegar around with them. If salt pork is boiled with them, 
slice it, and use it to garnish the greens instead of the butter. 
Greens are usually eaten in the spring, and are chiefly valuable for 
their alkaline salts and water. 

KOHLKABI. 

Peel, cut it in two, and then slice thin; put into salted water, 
parboil, and then drain; then stew it in some weak broth; when 
nearly done, shred some of the green leaves growing at the top, 
and add them; they will tinge it a light green. When tender, drain 
out the kohlrabi. Make a bechamel sauce with the liquid in which 
it is cooked, pour it over the vegetable, let it get hot, and serve. 
Time, 15 to 25 minutes. 

Kohlrabi is a cultivated variety of the cabbage, distinguished by the swelling 
in a globular form of that part of the stem which is just above the ground. 
This protuberance is the part used, its uses being similar to the turnip. It is only 
fit to use when young, being then M'holesome, nutritious and palatable; later it 
contains much indigestible fibrous matter. It is very valuable, also, as food for 
cattle. 

LETTUCE. 

If lettuce has become wilted in the market, let it stand with 
the stems in a bowl of cold water for several hours before using, to 
become crisp again. Just before serving, wash carefully, then shake 
off the water, tear it in small pieces, as it is more convenient to 
serve in that way. It should never be cut with a knife. Pile it in 
a glass dish, and serve on salad dishes, or small plates. Vinegar 
and sugar is sometimes used for a dressing, or oil and vinegar, salt 
alone, French salad dressing, or mayonnaise if preferred. It is deli- 
cious served with lemon juice, using sugar also if liked. 

FRIED LETTUCE.— Chop lettuce and the tops of 2 onions 
fine, add 2 well-beaten eggs, put a little salad oil or butter into a 
frying=pan, and pour in the mixture well beaten; cover, stir up 
when well heated, and serve with vinegar or lemon juice, or without 
either, according to taste. 

STEAMED LETTUCE.— Melt 2 tablespoons of butter in a sauce* 
pan, add vinegar and 1 well beaten egg; stir well together, and add 
the leaves from 2 large heads of lettuce, cover, and let it steam until 
the lettuce is well wilted; serve hot. 



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A FEW EDIBLE MUSHROOMS. 



VEGETABLES 238 

Lettuce is supposed to be a native of the East Indies, but it has been cultiva- 
ted in Europe from very early times. It is wholesome and has a particularly 
pleasant taste. It is said to have a sedative action on tiie nervous system, which 
allays pain and induces sleep. Those who have no tendency to apoplexy, and who 
are troubled with wakefulness may be recommended to eat lettuce at supper. It 
contains little nutriment, being 9(j^ water. It contains about I'^i of mineral mat- 
ters (especially nitre), which are useful. 

MACARONI, SPAGHETTI AND VERMICELLI. 
BOILING MACARONI — Do not wash macaroni, as that extracts 
part of its nutrients. After breaking it into suitable lengths put it 
into plenty of boiling water, slightly salted, and boil actively until it 
is done; most cook books say to boil it 15 to 20 minutes, but you will 
find it better if you boil it |- to | hour, but do not boil it too long or 
it will lose its nutritive qualities; then drain in a colander, pour on 
cold water, which will prevent its sticking, then spread the strips 
beside each other and cut them all at once into pieces about an inch 
long, which is better than leaving them in unweildy lengths. 

BAKED MACARONI.— Boil and prepare as above directed; then 
butter a baking^dish, put in the macaroni, cover with bread crumbs, 
pour a little melted butter on top, bake in a moderate oven 5 min- 
utes, and serve. 

FRIED MACARONI. — Boil the macaroni as above, and grate 
cheese. Take the cold macaroni, make it into little balls with the 
cheese, egg and bread-crumb them, and fry in smoking hot fat to a 
rich brown. 

MACARONI WITH CHEESE.— Boil i lb. and prepare as above 
directed; then make a sauce with 1^ cups hot milk, and 1 tablespoon 
each of butter and flour, and salt to taste. Then in the bottom of 
the baking=dish put a layer of grated cheese, put on a layer of maca- 
roni, and cover with the sauce; then other layers of cheese, macaroni 
and sauce; put fine bread crumbs on top, dot with bits of butter and 
a little grated cheese, and bake until the top is browned. Time, 
about 20 minutes. 

MACARONI WITH MELK SAUCE.— Boil and prepare the 
macaroni as above; make a sauce with 1 cup milk thickened with a 
dessertsi^oon of butter and flour rubbed together, and a little salt; 
after it has boiled a few moments drop in the macaroni, and in 5 
minutes, dish up and serve. 

SPAGHETTI — Boil this the same as macaroni, only it does not 
need to cook quite as longj and drain and pour on cold water the 
same. Cut it or not as you j)refer. It can be treated otherwise 
much the same as macaroni. 

Vermicelli is treated the same as spaghetti. 



S34 VEGETABLES 

Macaroni is a particular form of wheaten flour. It is made by selecting tli 
tincst tlour, making it into a paste with water, then pressing it through holes o 
molds in a metal plate, or stamping it to the desired form, then drying or baking 
it. When properly dressed it is pleasant and wholesome, but not so easy of diges- 
tion as some other wheaten preparations. It is nutritious, however, and if well 
cooked deserves an extensive use. Butter and cheese go well with it, as the butter 
supplies the fat it lacks, and cheese adds the albumenoid element in its casein. 

Vekmicelli and Spaghetti are prepared in the same way as macaroni, only 
they are pressed through smaller hoks, making them a little smaller round. 

MUSHROOMS. 

Never be content with wipins:, Init always wash mushrooms, 
thoroughly, and dry with a cloth. They should be cooked soon after 
being gathered, for as soon as decay begins they are unfit for food- 
To this cause alone many of the cases of illness caused by them can 
be attributed. The trimmings are useful for flavoring gravies, 
soups, ragouts, etc. 

MUSHROOMS, FRIED.— Peel, cut off the stalks, and placethem 
in the frying-pan with a little butter; fry gently until they are quit 3 
tender; season with pepper and pour the contents of the frying pan 
over them. If desired put them on buttered toast before pouring on 
the gravy. 

ESCALLOPED MUSHROOMS.- Take B cups chopped mush- 
rooms and 2 cups cracker crumbs, rolled fine. Put a layer of cracker 
crumbs into a i)udding dish, then a layer of mushrooms; sprinkle 
with salt and add bits of butter. Add alternate layers of crackers 
and mushrooms thus, finishing with crackers. Then pour on 1 cujp 
cream, and bake in a moderate oven about 1 hour. 

MUSHROOM PIE. — Cut fresh agarics in small pieces; add iDep- 
per, salt, and place them on small shreds of bacon in the bottom of a 
pie dish; cover with mashed potatoes, and so add alternate layers, 
having x^otato on top. Bake well ^ hour, and brown before a quick 
fire. 

MUSHROOMS EN RAGOUT,- Put into a sauce pan a little 
" stock," vinegar, parsley, salt, spices, and green onions chopped up; 
when about to boil put in the cleaned mushrooms; wdien done till 
tender, remove from the fire and thicken with yolks of eggs. 

MUSHROOMS ON TOAST.— Put 2 cups mushrooms into a stew^ 
pan with 2 oz. butter rolled in flour; add 1 teaspoon salt, ^ teaspoon 
each of white pepper and grated lemon peel and a blade of powdered 
mace; stew until the butter is absorbed and the mushrooms tender. 
Serve at once on toast. Garnish with lemon. 



VEGETABLES 235 

CANNED MUSHROOMS.— Take 1 can mushrooms, add 2 tea- 
spoons melted butter with flour and salt; heat in a double boiler 
thoroughly. Stir in 1 beaten egg and 3 tablespoons of cream just 
before serving. 

Our Colored Illustrations. 

Fig. 1. — The Morel {MorclicUa csculcnfa). This mushroom is 
found in April and May in grassy' places on the borders of fields and 
the raised banks of streams, sometimes in fir or chestnut forests and 
in hilly countries. 

Cooking them. (1) Remove the butt of the stem and wash and dry 
carefully. Cut large ones in small pieces, and split small ones. 
Pour on boiling water, set on stove 5 minutes and then drain. Then 
gently stew 1 hour in a little water; then add a little soup stock, pep- 
per, salt and butter, and onion if liked, and cook a few minutes. 
Serve on buttered toast. Garnish with slices of lemon. (2) Fill 
them with a forcemeat of seasoned bread and wrap them in thin 
slices of salt pork or bacon; bake in the oven 30 to 40 minutes, or 
slowly stew 1 hour in good broth. (3) Escallop them as directed 
above for mushrooms. 

Fig. 2. —Meadow Mushroom {Acjai'IaiH canipcsfn's). This vari- 
ety grows in open grassy places in fields and rich pastures, but never 
in thick woods. They are fall mushrooms. Cooking. (1) To fry, 
scald a few seconds, dry with a ch^th, dredge with flour seasoned with 
salt and pepper, and fry 5 or 6 minutes in smoking hot fat. Serve 
hot. (2) They can be boiled and then they make desirable additions 
to soups, gravies, ragouts, etc. (3) Stewed with butter, spice, pars- 
ley, salt, pepper, lemon juice and sweet herbs it goes well with steak 
or mutton chops. (4) Escallop as directed above for mushrooms. 
(5) It makes a fine catsup. 

Fig. 3. — Chanterelle {CrmfJiai-cllus cibariotis). This variety is 
generally found in light woods and high situations, and it grows in 
great abundance. For cooking, choose crisji, heavy ones rather than 
light soft ones, as they are less likely to become leathery. They are 
sometimes soaked in milk ever night to make them tender. To stew, 
cut them across and remove the stems; put them into a closely cov- 
ered sauce=pan, with a little butter, and stew till tender at the lowest 
possible temperature; great heat destroys the flavor. As they are 
rather dry and tough, long, slow stewing is needed, with plenty of 
liquid. 

Fig. 4. — Hedgehog or Sjiine Mushroom {Hijdnion repaudion). 
This is the most desirable species of the genus Hydnum. It may be 
stewed in brown or white sauce, cooking slowly and for a long time; 
as it is naturally deficient in moisture keep well supplied with liquid. 
This species is easily preserved and may be kept a long time. 

Fig. 5. — Horse Mushroom (Afjoriciis arvensi><). This variety 
is found in the fields and pastures in autumn. Its flesh is firm and 
delicious and yields an abundant gravy. 



236 VEGETABLES 

Fig. 6. — The Oyster Mushroom (Agaricus ostreatus). This va- 
riety is found on dead tree trunks in the fall. It can be co(jked in 
any of the usual ways given above for mushrooms, but is better cook- 
ed over a slow fire. 

Fig. 7. — Orange Milk Mushroom (Lactitriits (Icliciusus). This 
variety is found in swam^jy woods and in forests of fir and x)ine. Its 
flavor when cooked is thought to resemble kidney stew. It requires 
delicate cooking, as, if kept over the fire until its juice evaporates it 
becomes tough. It is probably best baked. 

Fig. 8.— Edible Pore Mushroom {Boletus cdulis BuU). This va- 
riety is found chiefly in the woods, especially of pine, oak and chest- 
nut. It is most abundant in autumn, but is found in spring and 
summer. Its flesh is tender and juicy and it requires less cooking 
than some of the tougher varieties. It can be (1) broiled; or (2) 
stewed in white sauce w^ith or without chicken in fricassee; or (3) 
escalloped as directed above for mushrooms. 

Fig. 9. — The Plum Mushroom (Agaricui^ pnmiiliis). This va- 
riety groAvs in and near damp woods. The flesh is firm, juicy and 
full of flavor. It may be (1) broiled; or (2) stewed, and is then de- 
licious. 

Mushrooms belong to the genus Agaric^ts, and over 1000 different species are 
known. The season for mushrooms extends from spring well into autumn. They 
are highly nitrogenous and some varieties contain much fat or oil; when dried 
about ^2 their weight is nitrogenous. They are admirably adapted for human con- 
sumption, no other class of vegetables containing in a higher degree the elements 
needed for nutrition. Many people are prejudiced against their use because there 
are so many poisonous varieties, and the inexperienced cannot readily distinguish 
between them. It is probable that in the future they will become a more import- 
ant article of food than at present. The fresh are better than the canned, but it is 
better in gathering them to be guided by some one who unerringly knows the edi- 
ble varieties, than to trust to any written description. Any mushroom having 
an offensive smell, or a bitter, astringent, or even unpleasant flavor, is unfit for 
food, 

OKRA, 

BOILED — Use only that which is young and tender; wash care- 
fully, so as not to break the skins for the mucilage to escape. After 
washing, take ofiP the stems and boil until quite soft, in water con- 
taining a little salt. When done, drain in the colander, place in the 
dish in which it is to be sent to the table, season with pepper and a 
little more salt; then pour over it butter sauce, or hot cream. Cook 
okra in porcelain lined or tin vessels, as iron colors it black. Time 
to boil, 1 hour or more. 

The Okra is a species of mallow (the Hibiscus esculenhis) possessing mucilagen- 
ous seed pods which are valuable for soups and stews. The dishes thus formed are 
healthful and nutritious, and are quite popular in the South and in France. The 
ripe seeds are sometimes used to adulterate coffee, and form one of its least ob- 
jectionable adulterations. Use the pods when young and tender; when over 3 
inches long, they become tough and stringy. 



VEGETABLES 237 

ONIONS. 

Onions, as has been said elsewhere, should not be cooked with 
other vegetables, nor should the kettle in which they are cooked be 
used for other foods, as the odor of the onions clings tenaciously to 
the kettle for a long time after using it for that vegetable. So many 
people dislike onions, and others who like them do not eat them for 
other reasons, that great care should be taken in this respect. 
Kemember the caution about using them in soups, when you are not 
sure of the tastes of the partakers; boil the onions separately, in the 
onion Ixcttle, and add them, at the time of serving, to the soup of 
those who like them. 

When peeling and slicing onions, hold the hands under water 
and they will not then atfect the eyes. After iDceling onions the 
smell may be taken from the hands by rubbing them with celery. 

It is said that after eating onions, the odor may be overcome by 
eating a little parsley. 

Onions, carrots and turnips should be cut across the fibre in 
rings, instead of being split the other way, as they will then cook 
tender more quickly. The rank flavor of onions may be relieved by 
soaking them for an hour before cooking, in warm salt water. 

PLAIN, BOILED ONIONS — Pour on boiling water, and take 
off the skins (use those of medium size, as the largest ones can be 
sliced for frying, and the smallest can be used for soups, if liked). 
Boil them in salted water, changing it once or twice during the 
process; wdien done soft, take them out with a fork, or drain them, 
put in a vegetable dish, sprinkle on salt, pepjoer, and bits of butter, 
which will be melted by the heat of the onions, and serve. Time to 
boil, about | hour. 

ONIONS A LA BORDEAUX.— Parboil medium sized onions, 
then drain the water from them; put them in a kettle with butter the 
size of an e^g, a little salt, and use stock, gravy or water, to moisten 
them; simmer them until tender, and the sauce is reduced; add the 
juice of a lemon, and send to the table hot. 

ONIONS WITH CREAM.— Skin the onions and cut them in 
small pieces and put them into a sauce=pan with a piece of butter 
and a little water, and let them cook thoroughly. Strain them and 
put them back into the sauce pan, with a piece of butter; when this 
is melted, stir in a little flour, pepper and salt, and just before serv- 
ing, a small quantity of cream. When this is added, the sauce must 
on no account be allowed to reach boiling point. Milk can be used 
in place of cream. Time, altogether, about \ hour. 



238 VEGETABLES 

ESCALLOPED ONIONS.— Boil the onions till quite soft, chang- 
ing the water twice. Butter a deep baking dish, and put in a layer 
of onions just pulled apart in bits, but not chopped; season with bits 
of butter and a little salt; then add a layer of bread crumbs or 
crushed crackers, season to taste, and moisten with milk. Then in\t 
in alternate layers of onions and crumbs, seasoning each layer, till 
the dish is full; finish with the bread crumbs. Moisten the last layer 
very thoroughly with milk; bake ^ hour in a hot oven. 

Escalloped, No. 2. — Lay an onion, sliced, and fried brown in but- 
ter, in the bottom of a baking dish; put a layer of cold boiled rice 
next, well moistened with an equal quantity of stewed tomatoes, and 
cover the whole with a layer of crumbs, wet with milk. Set in the 
oven till heated through and brown on top. The rice and tomatoes 
should be previously seasoned. 

FRIED ONIONS. — If the onions are large, cut them in quarters 
first, then across in small pieces. The small ones may be cut in 
rings; iDut them in a spider, with a little dripping, or salt pork fat, to 
keep them from sticking; cover for 10 minutes, to partly stew them, 
then uncover and stir them until they are a nice yellowish brown. 
Butter may be used in frying onions, if preferred, but anything fried 
with butter must be closely watched, as it is more apt than other fat 
to scorch. 

SPANISH ONIONS, FRIED.— Heat 2 tablespoons butter in the 
frying-pan till smoking hot; put in 2 lbs. Spanish onions, peeled and 
sliced, add 1 teaspoon salt, a dash of cayenne and a little black pep- 
per; cook until tender, stirring constantly; then serve on toast. 
Pour over them the gravy they form in cooking. 

The onion belongs to the natural order Allium, which includes also the leek, 
garlic and shallot. It is supposed to be. a native of India, or Egypt, in both of 
which it has been grown from very early times. In Egypt, it was an object of 
worship. Of all the flavoring substances used in cookery, it is the most valuable, 
next to salt. The onion possesses strong irritant and excitant properties, and is 
diuretic, expectorant and stimulatirg. It is believed to promote sleep, and is 
usually considered very nutritious, but opinions differ on this point. The y are not 
suited to ail stomachs, and some cannot eat them fried or roasted, while others 
prefer them boiled, by which process they are deprived of their essential oil. 
Some authorities claim for them medicinal qualities of a high order, and advise 
their more general use. The strong smell comes from a volatile oil, rich in 
sulphur. 

Spanish Onions are large, white, and delicate in odor and flavor. They can be 
used to flavor other vegetables, or used as a salad when cut in thin shavings. 
They can also be baked, boiled or fried, and served as a vegetable. 

PARSNIPS. 

BOILED, — Wash and scrub well? and boil until tender in salted 



VEGETABLES 239 

water; then put them into cold water and the skins will easily rub 
ofiP. Then cut them n]p and serve in a bechamel or white sauce, 
letting them steef) in it a little while before serving. Time to boil, 
if small, ^ to 1 hour; if large 1 to 1^ hours. 

PARSNIP BALLS — Boil as above and take off the skins; then 
mash smooth, removing any tough fibre; add salt, pepper, a little 
flour, and welhbeaten egg; form into balls, and fry in smoking hot 
fat. 

FRIED PARSNIPS.- Boil and skin as above; when cold, slice 
them and saute in butter or salt pork fat. Season with salt and Dep- 
per, and serve hot. 

STEWED PARSNIPS.— Wash and scrape them clean, then cut 
them in little pieces about ^ an inch square, put them in a kettle 
with just sufficient water to cover them, with a trifle of salt and a lit- 
tle pepper. When they are done, take off the cover, and let the 
water they were boiled in evaporate, so that there will be none to 
turn off', and they will brown a little; do not stir them until you 
take them up; then add a generous piece of butter (remember the 
old adage, " Fine words butter no parsnips"); stir lightly with a 
fork, take them up into a hot vegetable dish, and 
send to the table. 

Parsnips are a native of England, and are found in 
many parts of Europe and nortliern Asia. Tiiere are 
several varieties in cultivation. They are wliolesome and 
more nutritious than either the carrot or the turnip. Pars- 
nips are sweetish in taste, and are a i:)articularly useful 
vegetable in sj^ring, when a change of diet is desirable 
and fresh vegetables are scares. They contain a little 
gluten, and a small percentage of starch and sugar. They 
go well with corned beef and salt fish. Although they 
are left in the ground during the winter, they should be 
dug as soon as the frost is out of the ground, and before 
the tops start to grow, as that detracts from their sweet- 
ness. 

PEAS. 

Young green peas should be washed in the pods, then shelled; 
then iDut the pods in a little soft waler and boil about 10 minutes, 
as these pods are sweet and full of flavor which is worth saving;- 
then skhn them out, put in the i)eas, and boil about ^ hour, or until 
tender, adding a little salt when almost done. Do not drain off the 
water they were cooked in, but serve with the peas. When done, add 
a little butter, and salt if needed. A little sugar will be an improve- 
ment, and cream if you have it. 

Green peas are nice cooked in a steamer without water; then 
salted, and cream poured over them, 




PARSNIP. 



240 



VEGETABLES 




If dried peas are boiled until very soft, mashed and passed 
through a sieve, then seasoned and served, it will divest them of 
their indigestible outer coat, and it is really the best way to serve 
them. This applies also to beans. These pulses are among the 
most nutritious of food, but the outer skin is almost indigestible cel- 
lulose and is best gotten rid of as far as possible. Time to boil peas, 
about ^ to 1 hour, according to age and condition. 

The water in which peas are boiled 
should not be thrown away. If to this, as 
it comes from the kettle, is added a little 
stock, or some good meat extract, a deli- 
cious soup is at once produced, requiring 
nothing more than ordinary seasoning. 

Peas have been cultivated in the East from 
time immemorial, and were introduced into Europe 
very early in the middle ages. When eaten young, 
they are wholesome and digestible, and being richer 
in phosphates than most other vegetables, they are 
more adapted to invalids; but when older they are 
more indigcstijjle. Split peas have the tough envel- 
ope removed. <■ 

Green peas are more digestible but less nour- 
ishing than dried, which require prolonged boiling 
to make them digestible. Dried peas should always ^^ji. 

be boiled in soft water, for the longer they are boiled in hard water, the harder 
they become. A. little bicarbonate of soda, (cooking soda) may be added to the 
water in which dried peas and beans are cooked, as this assists in softening 
the legumen. It may also be added to stale green peas, but it impairs the color of 
fresh, tender, green peas and beans, and is not needed for softening purposes. 

PARSLEY. 

FRIED — See that the parsley is dry, dip it in smoking hot fat 
1 minute, drain on pajoer, sprinkle on pepi)er and salt, and serve. 

The Pabsley is a hardy biennial plant, a native of 
Eastern Europe. There are several varieties, the Ham- 
burg parsley being grown for the sake of its roots which 
are eaten like parsnips. The leaves of parsley are nutri- 
tious and stimulating, and are used as a flavoring for 
soups, etc., as well as for garnishing foods. The root is 
diuretic. The fruit (seed) is a deadly poison to many 
birds, especially parrots. 

To keep parsley for the winter, use that which is freshly 
gathered, wash it free from grit and dirt, and put it into 
water which has been slightly salted and well skimm< d, 
and let it boil 2 or 3 minutes; then take it out, drain, and 
lay it on a sieve before the fire and dry as quickly as 
possible; store away in bottles in a dry place. When 
wanted for use, pour a little warm water over it and let 
stand about 5 minutes. 

POTATOES. 

Probably the best method of cooking potatoes, certainly from 
September to June, is by steaming them in the skins; by this pro- 




VEGETABLES 241 

cess tlie steam penetrates everywhere, and there is no loss of mate- 
rial or salts, if the skins are removed before boiling, a large amount 
of salts will be lost. Dr. Letheby estimates the loss when the skins 
are removed at 14%, and when not removed at only 3%. The 
addition of common table salt to the water is advantageous, as 
it modifies the extraction of the natural salts, and improves the 
flavor. The boiling should be thorough, so that the siarch grains 
of which they are largely composed, may swell and burst the walls 
of cellulose, which confine them; too often, however, the potatoes 
are spoiled by allowing them to absorb water, and so become sod- 
den after this stage is reached. 

Old potatoes, towards the end of the season, are improved by 
being peeled and put into cold water over night, by which process 
they regain in a measure their natural color and consistency. 

Put potatoes into cold water as soon as peeled; they turn dark if 
left exposed to the air. 

Old potatoes are rendered more digestible by being finely 
mashed; mash them very thoroughly indeed — you will hardly over- 
do it. Roasted potatoes are more nutritious than boiled, and mealy 
potatoes more nutritious than those which are waxy. 

Potatoes, are spoiled by germination or growing (which exhausts 
the starch) and by frost; severe frost invariably kills them, so that 
when the thaw comes the process of putrification almost immedidtely 
sets in. The sw^eetness of potatoes which have been frozen and 
thawed, arises from the fact that the starch then changes to sugar on 
being exioosed to warmth and air. Keep them frozen until wanted 
for use, then thaw by letting them lie in cold water, and use at once. 
Potatoes after being frozen decay very quickly, because in freezing 
the water they contain bursts the cells. They can be put on to bake 
without being thawed, when frozen. 

Whenever tjie starch cells are intact, ripe potatoes can be 
cooked so that they will be mealy. The starch cells have not matured 
in unripe potatoes, so that wdien cooked they will not be so mealy, 
but they need not be soggy. When, potatoes sprout, the process of 
germination ruptures the starch cells so that they will not afterwards 
cook as mealy as before sprouting. If sprouts appear they should 
be removed or killed at once, as they exhaust the starch as they 
grow, and spoil the potato for food. 

TO BOIL POTATOES — Wash them very thoroughly, or scrub 
them; a narrow strip cut off around the middle will allow the poi- 
sonous solanine to esca^De more readily; put them into boiling, salted 
16 



242 VEGETABLES 

water, and boil them until soft (about 25 minutes) varying accord- 
ing to variety and size. The thing to bear in mind is that to have 
potatoes mealy they must be taken out of the water as soon as the 
starch cells are cooked enough so that their walls are ready to burst; 
if drained off at once, the superfluous water will pass oft* as steam, 
and the interior will be dry and floury; if left longer they will 
absorb water and become sodden; therefore as soon as they are ten- 
der enough to pierce readily with a fork, drain them, cover with a 
thick cloth, and set them for 15 or 20 minutes on the back part 
of the range, or where they will keep hot without burning. They 
can be kept thus, hot and dry, for several hours if need be, and 
right for eating. 

BAKED POTATOES. — Select j)otatoes as nearly of a size as 
possible, wash or scrub thoroughly clean, and if old, let them stand 
for 2 hours in cold water; then wipe dry (always dry potatoes for 
baking) and bake in a hot oven; it v.ill take from f^ to 1 hour. It 
is a good plan to x^rick the skin before putting them in to bake, to 
allow the escape of the steam and prevent their bursting; if not 
pricked, break the skin as soon as they are done to allow the 
steam to escax)e. Never cover baked potatoes to confine the steam, 
as that makes them soggy. Potatoes baked until just done are best; 
baked longer, they harden near the skin, lose their light, mealy char- 
acter, and so deteriorate. Serve while hot. Baked potatoes are 
the most wholesome, because none of the nutrients are lost, part of 
the starch is turned to sugar, and the solanine escapes with the 
steam. 

POTATO BALLS.— Mix 2 teacups mashed potatoes, 2 table- 
spoons melted butter, 2 welbbeaten eggs, salt and ijepper to taste; 
form into balls, roll in flour, and fry in hot lard, or drii:)i)ings. 

BROILED POTATOES.— Cut whatever you may have of cold 
boiled potatoes into lengthwise slices, about \ inch thick; dip each in 
flour, and lay tlunn between an oyster broiler. Have the lire clear, 
and when both sides are nicely browned, lay the slices on a hot dish, 
put a piece of butter on each and season with salt and pepper. A 
very delicate dish. 

POTATO CAKE.— Boil the potatoes till they are soft and floury, 
dry them, and, while warm, mash them thoroughly — this is usually 
done with the hand; then mix with them as much flour as will bind 
the potato without making it stiif, add salt, and roll out on a floured 
board, and shape the cake or cakes, then fry in boiling bacon^fat. 



VEGETABLES 243 

Usually, the cake is rolled to about | inch in thickness, molded to 
the shape of the pan, and fried whole. Properly made, it is won- 
derfully light. It requires some art in turning it. This is managed 
by heating only enough fat at first to fry one side, then dexterously 
turning the cake on to a plate, and when sufficient fat is boiling for 
the other side, sliding it into the pan again, 

BOSTON CHIPS,— After paring the potatoes, soak them 1 hour 
in cold water; then cut them into thin slices, lengthways of the 
potato; after this do not wet them again. Have a kettle of moder- 
ately hot fat ready; put the chips in a basket, dip them in the fat, 
leave a moment, lift out, dip in again, lift out again, and then put in 
and fry until they turn a golden brown; then lift out, put them 
in a colander, sprinkle on salt, set in the oven a minute, and serve. 

SARATOGA POTATOES.— Shave them thin, soak in cold or ice 
water 20 or 30 minutes, drain them, dry on a towel, and fry in boiling 
fat to a light brown; when done, drop them on blotting or unglazed 
paper to absorb the extra fat; sprinkle on salt and serve hot. Enough 
can be done at one time, if desired, for several meals; they keep 
well, are easily warmed over by setting them in the oven a few min- 
utes, and are nearly as good as when fresh. 

A similar method is to cut them in cubes, instead of thin strips. 
They require a little longer frying, but are nice for a change, and are 
more moist and digestible than chips. 

CREAMED POTATOES.— Into a frying=pan put 1 tablespoon 
butter; as soon as it bubbles, stir in 1 tablespoon of flour, and 1 
cup of hot milk; season to taste with pepper and salt; then put in 
2 cups cold boiled potatoes, which are cut into small cubes, heat 
thoroughly and serve. 

POTATOES WITH CHEESE.— Put alternate layers of thinly- 
sliced cheese, and sliced cold potatoes into a dish, with the cheese 
on top; dot with butter, and bake a light brown in a slow oven. 
Time, about | hour. 

ESCALLOPED POTATOES. -Slk-e small, raw potatoes quite thin. 
Butter a dish well, and sprinkle fine bread crumbs on the bottom^ 
then i)ut in a layer of sliced potatoes and season with salt and pepper 
and bits of butter. Then add another layer of crumbs, and so alter- 
nately until the dish is full, having crumbs on toj) with a good 
supply of butter. Moisten with milk and a little cream, if it is to 
be had, and bake until potatoes are creamy and nicely browned on 
top. If the oven is very hot, it is well to cover them part of the 
time. 



244 VEGETABLES 

POTATOES AND EGGS.— Take 2 large cups of cold, well= 
mashed potatoes, and -i cup melted butter; beat together until light 
and smooth, and add 2 well beaten eggs, 1 cup milk, and a little salt; 
beat all together, put into a deep dish, brown in a quick oven, and 
serve hot. Tunc, about 10 minutes. 

FRIED. — Peel and slice cold potatoes, and fry first one side; 
then turn and fry the other, in a frying=pan, with salt pork fat, beef 
drippings or butter. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and always send 
to the table hot. Raw potatoes can be fried in the same way. They 
will be better if soaked in cold water after being peeled and sliced; 
the water will take out the starch and they will then fry more crisp. 
The French usually fry them, like doughnuts, in smoking hot fat. 
Take them out the minute they are browned, drain on paper, sea- 
son, and serve hot. 

POTATOES WARMED IN GRAVY — Chop cold boiled potatoes 
in .the chopping-^ bowl (with a knife they are never cut even, some 
pieces are large, while others are almost mashed); after the jDotatoes 
are pretty fine, put a piece of butter in the frying pan, turn in the po- 
tatoes, brown slightly, then turn in gravy (chicken gravy is very 
nice), and stir the potatoes carefully w^ith a fork, so as not to mash 
them, until the gravy is very hot. Season with a little salt and 
pepper. 

LVONNAISE POTATOES.— Slice 6 cold boiled potatoes, or cut 
into dice. Put a little butter in the frying-pan. put in ^ onion chopped 
fine, and fry it a light brown, turning them without breaking; then 
stir in 1 tablespoon of minced parsley, and serve hot. A few drops 
of vinegar added w^ith the onion, improves the flavor. 

MASHED POTATOES.— Pare and boil them in slightly salted 
water; when done, drain off the water, and mash them in the kettle 
with a wire masher; add a level teaspoon of salt to 10 potatoes, and a 
little cream, or, if one has no cream, a piece of butter and a little hot 
water; mash and beat against the side of the kettle, until they are 
creamy — you can hardly mash too much; keep them hot in the ket- 
tle until ready to serve. Pour hot water in the vegetable dish to 
warm it, pile the potato in the dish, put dots of black pepper over it, 
and send it to the table. 

POTATOES A LA MAITRE D' HOTEL — Cut cold boiled pota- 
toes in small sc^uares, the size of dice, and put them over the fire in 
a stew=pan, with butter or cream, a little chopi^ed parsley, salt and 
pepper to taste, and a few drops of vinegar or lemon juice. Let 



VEGETABLES 245 

them get hot, shaking the pan to keep them from burning, and serve 
them in a hot dish that has been rubbed with a raw onion. 

POTATO PUFF.— To 2 cups of mashed potatoes, add 2 table- 
spoons of melted butter, and beat until light; then mix in it 2 eggs, 
well beaten, a cup of milk, and salt to taste. Beat together thorough- 
ly, and bake in a buttered pudding dish in a quick oven until nicely 
browned. A fine breakfast dish. 

PUFFED POTATOES. — Cut peeled raw potatoes in thin slices, 
and fry in a kettle of hot fat; stir with a fork to prevent their stick- 
ing together. When they are soft, take them out with a skimmer 
and let them drain on a sieve until cool ; then return to the hot fat 
and fry 4 minutes longer; the second frying causes the slices to puff 
and become hollow. Sprinkle them with salt and serve. 

POTATO STEW. — Take (3 or 8 large potatoes, peel and slice 
thin; cut 3 thick slices of salt x^ork into little squares, and put into 
the bottom of the soup^kettle; fry thoroughly, then add the potatoes, 
with salt, pepper and a little sage, if liked, and 1 large tomato peeled 
and sliced; cover with water and closely cover the kettle. Cook 
until the potatoes begin to break in pieces. Cheap and good. 

QUIRLED POTATOES.— Peel, boil, season and mash potatoes; 
IHit them through a colander into the dish in which you wish to 
serve them, set in a hot oven and brown. 

SALTED POTATOES.— Make a strong brine of salt and water; 
cl^an but do not cut, smooth, medium sized potatoes; when the brine 
is boiling hot put in the potatoes and boil until tender. Serve with 
the jackets on, with good butter. Nice and new. 

STUFFED POTATOES. — Choose 12 good-sized potatoes, wash 
them, and scrub the skins with a brush; bake them until done — 
about 1 hour. Remove them from the oven, cut a slice off one end 
of each, scrape out the potato, mix it lightly v.'ith a small piece of 
butter, pepper and salt, replace it in the skin, and, when all are 
done, return them to the oven for lO minutes. In serving, cut a slice 
ofp the other end to make them stand upright on a flat dish, leaving 
the top uncovered. A little cooked meat can be mixed in before 
replacing the potato in the skin, if desired. 

POTATO TURNOVERS.— Have some cold roast beef, or veal 
and ham mixed, and cut very fine. Take hot mashed potatoes and 
make into a paste with 1 or 2 eggs, according to quantity. You 
should have twice as much potato as meat. Roll the potato out, 



246 VEGETABLES 

dredo-ino" with flour. Cut this round, about the size of a small 
saucer. On one half put the chopped meat, fold the other half over 
and fry a light brown. 

WARMED OVER POTATOES — (1) Slice up cold potatoes, 
fry in a little butter, lard, or nice drippings, season with salt and 
l)epper; fry a nice brown, and just before serving i^our in a little 
cream or milk; toss about for a few minutes. Serve very hot. Or, 
(2) grate them into the dish they are to be served in, dot with 
butter, sprinkle on salt, and bake about 5 minutes in a hot oven. 
Or, (B) cut into dice, put into a dish, add a little milk, butter and 
salt, and heat in the oven. Never waste any jjotato left over. 

The potato is a native of America. It was introduced into England in the 
sixteenth century, but it was nearly 100 years before it was cultivated to any ex- 
tent. As food, it ranks next in value to the cereals, but it is not as cheap and 
desirable a food in itself as is often supposed, since it does not contain the neces- 
sary food elements in right proportions for a steady diet. It is best eaten as an 
addition to pulses, lean meat, and other nitrogenous food. 

Potatoes consist mainly of starch and water, about 78?/ being water; starch 18$?, 
and fibrin and albumen 2%. Young new potatoes are more indigestible than old 
ones. In a floury and mealy state they are easily digested, but when close and 
waxy they are not. They possess slightly laxative qualities. The waste in boiling 
is much less when they are boiled in their skins, because that is of a cork=like sub- 
stance partly impervious to water. 

There is considerable waste in peeling potatoes because the most albuminous 
part lies immediately under the skin. In and near the skin itself, is a poisonous 
acid juice, called Rulaniiie, but that is destroyed or dissipated when the potatoes 
are cooked. It is this poisonous acid which causes the disagreeable smell and 
taste of the water in which potatoes have been boiled, and it makes the water unfit 
for use. 

SWEET POTATOES. 
TO BOIL. — Select those of an even size, wash perfectly clean, 
and boil until tender; then peel, cut them in two lengthwise, and 
place them on a buttered tin in the oven to brown; in this way the 
skins are disposed of before sending them to the table. It takes 
longer to cook sweet potatoes than the common ones. The time is 
about I to 1 hour. 

BAKED.— Wash medium sized sweet potatoes and place on the 
top grate of a hot oven ; when the i^otatoes are about half done, pierce 
them with a fork to let the steam escape; this will make them dry and 
mealy. 

BROILED. — Boil, let cool, and peel the number of large, sweet 
potatoes required. Slit them in 2 or 3 slices, dip in melted butter, 
and place them in a douljle gridiron. Broil a light brown on both 
sides, dish them up, and after pouring some melted butter over the 
potatoes, they may be served. 

FRIED Peel the- raw potato, cut it into very thin, lengthwise 

strix^s, and fry in smoking hot fat, deep enough to immerse them in; 



VEGETABLES 



247' 




as they rise to the top and brown on one side, turn them and let 
them brown on the other. Nice, and new in the north. 

SWEET POTATOES AND PORK.— Select white looking fresh 
pork — rib pieces; cut them thin and free from fat and bone; fry them 
carefully, and cook thoroughly until nicely browned; then place on a 
warm platter; cut boiled sweet potatoes in slices lengthways, and fry 
until brown in the fat in the spider; use care not to burn them; salt 
them as they cook; then arrange on the platter around the meat; 
serve very hot, with apple sauce and hot johnny=cake. 

SUGARED SWEET POTATOES.— Boil those of medium size, 
dry off in tlie oven, peel, let them get cold, and then cut in two length- 
wise; then lay each half on its round side 
in a shallow pan or dripping pan, put a 
good bit of butter and a little salt and 
pepper on each one, sift granulated 
sugar generously over all, and put in a 
quick oven to brown; it takes about 40 
minutes. Excellent and new. 

nil i. 1 i. • 1 1 1 r A ■ • SWEET rOTATO. 

llie sweet. potato is probably of American ori- 
gin, though now extensively cultivated in many 

countries. It belongs to the Couvolvulus order. It contains more sugar than the 
true potato. Its constituent parts are, water 71 parts; albumen, Ij^; starch, 15; 
sugar, 3; pectose gum and cellulose, 5; mineral matter, 1. 

PUMPKINS. 

PUMPKIN BUTTER.— Peel and cut enough pumpkin to fill a 
large iron or porcelain kettle. Select the sweetest pumpkins, as you 
would for pies. Stew 4 or 5 hours, until it is a rich golden brown 
color, and dried to a thick paste. It must be frequently stirred at 
last, to prevent burning. This sauce is especially good, served with 
pork, either salt or fresh. 

Pumpkins for winter can be stewed and canned like fruit, and will 
then nearly equal fresh pumpkins. ^ 

Pumpkins are a species of gourd. They were formerly more used for food 
than at present, having been somewhat supplanted by the squash. They possess 
one peculiar quality — that of absorbing and retaining the flavor of whatever tlrey 
are cooked with. If stewed with apples they taste exactly like them in puddings 
and tarts, and they m^ay be used to advantage in most savory cookery. They con- 
tain about 1% of sugar, 2 to 5% of starch, and about 1% of fat and nitrogenous mat- 
ter. An anonymous writer in the early settlement of America wrote home to Eng- 
land as follows: 

"If fresh meat be wanting to fill up our dish. 
We have carrots, and pumpkins, and turnips and fish, 
We have pumpkins at morning, and pumpkins at noon, 
And if it were not for pumpkins we should be undone." 



248 



VEGETABLES 



RICE. 
BOILED. — Pick over carefully, and wash at least twice, in cold 
water, washing it thoroughly clean, and drain. Then put the rice 
into plenty of well salted boiling water, and make it boil actively so 
that the water will bubble and toss the rice around; cook it till 
tender, but no longer, for if the grains burst they will surely stick 
together; test it often by squeezing a grain between the fingers; if 
it flattens easily it is ready to drain; it should cook in 15 to 20 
minutes, according to the age of the rice. When soft, drain off the 
water, remove the rice, and set it at the back of the stove to dry 
about ^ hour. If you stir it while cooking, use a fork instead of 
a spoon, as that separates the grains. Cooked thus each grain will 
be distinct, and separate. Unless the water is used for soup, boil- 
ing rice is less desirable than steaming it, because so much of its 
nutrients are dissolved out and thrown away in the water. 

BAKED. — Take some cold boiled rice, add 1 or 2 welhbeaten 
eggs, some grated cheese, some finely chopped boiled ham, and a 
little melted butter; put it in a baking=dish, sprinkle grated cheese 
on top, and bake in a good oven until a broom straw, when thrust 
into the middle, will come out clean. 

STEAMED — Pick over the rice and wash it thoroughly in cold 
water; put it in a farina boiler, w^ith ^ teaspoon of salt and 1 pint of 
boiling water to each cup of rice; cover, and cook till soft (about 
^ hour); then remove the cover and let it dry off, stirring it w^ith a 
fork to facilitate the escape of the steam and keep the grains sep- 
arate. If you have no double boiler it can be put in a 
tin pail and steamed in the steamer. Stock or milk ,j,, /' 

can be used instead of water, if desired, but use a little 
more. 

RICE WITH CHEESE. — Steam some rice in either 

water or milk; then mix in some grated cheese, pepper 

and salt; put the mixture in a pie^dish or tin, shake 

some grated cheese on top, and bake until nicely 

browned. The mixture must be fairly moist befere it 

is baked, or it will get dry. 

Rice appears to be a native of tlie East Indies, and it has 
formed the principal food of the Indian and Chinese people from 
remote antiquity. It is now cultivated in every country where the 
climate is suitable. It contains about 75% of starch^ and because rice. 

it has little fat or albumen, it is not fit for a sole article of diet. In 
nourishing properties it is greatly inferior to wheat, but it is a light and whole- 
some food, and is well adapted for invalids. As it has little of the heat pro- 
ducing elements, it is suitable for the inhabitants of hot climates. It goes well 
with meat and other articles rich in albumenoids. 




VEGETABLES 



249 



SALSIFY OR VEGETABLE OYSTER. 

Scrape the roots clean, and keep them covered with cold water 
containing a little vinegar, until time to cook, as exposure to the air 
will blacken them. Then boil till tender, in salted water — about 1 
hour. After boiling thus, it can be mashed, the fibres picked out, 
salted to taste, butter worked in, and served in a warm vegetable 
dish. Or, after boiling, they can be drained, sliced, dii^ped in frit- 
ter batter, and fried in smoking hot fat; or egg and bread^crumbed, 
and then fried. Or the slices can be sauted in a frying=j)an, with 
butter or salt pork fat. 

CREAMED SALSIFY— Wash it, scrape, cut into slices 4 inch 
thick, boil till tender in a saucepan; then turn off most of the lic[uor, 
add milk or cream, and salt to taste, and boil 5 
to 10 minutes longer; thicken the liquor with 
rice flour or other thickening, and serve hot. -i^ ii ^ly / 

If milk is used add a large lump of butter. A i 7f// 

ESCALLOPED SALSIFY.— Boil, mash it, 
moisten with milk, add butter, salt and pepper 
to season, put it in a baking pan, cover with 
dry crumbs, and bake in a quick oven about 7 
or 8 minutes. salsify. 

Salsify (also called vegetable oyster) belongs to the natural order Composites, 
the same order to which lettuce and chicory belong. It is the root wliich is used, 
which is shaped somewhat like the common carrot. As a rule, members of this 
order are tonic or stimulant in their medicinal qualities. 

SEAKALE. 

BOILED. — Wash the kale thoroughly and examine it for insects; 
tie it in bunches like asparagus, and boil about ^ 
hour, or until tender, in water containing a trifle of 
salt; when done, drain thoroughly ou a cloth, untie 
the bundle, and spread the kale on slices of toasted 
bread; then pour over it hot butter sauce. 





Sea=kale resembles asparagus, and belongs to the same tribe. 
It is easily cultivated. It is so light that the most delicate or- 
ganizations may readily eat it, and it is nutritious, stimulating 
to the appetite, and easily digested. It usually contains no 
sugar, but some mucilage and starch, the percentage being, 
starch and mucilage, 3; cellulose, 1; albumen 2.4:; mineral matter, 
0.6, and water, 93. ~ sea kale. 

Scotch Kale. — This has a fine head of curly leaves; the ten- 
derest are used as greens, and are prepared in the same manner as dandelions 
and other greens. This herb may be planted late, like late turnips, and is in sea- 
son, if planted early, from mids'ummer to late fall; it may be picked green and 
fresh, even after the ground is covered with snow. 

RADISHES. 

These are washed and scraped, and to keep them fresh looking 



250 VEGETABLES 

are placed on the table in glasses containing a little water. All vari- 
eties are served in the same way. 

There are many varieties of the radish, and they are supposed to possess some 
power in stimulating the appetite. The radish is demulcent, stimulating and 
diuretic, but it is not suitable for those with weak digestive powers. 

SAUEKKROUT. 
TO MAKE. — Choose firm, white cabbage heads and remove the 
coarse outer leaves, and the large fibres of the back of the white 
leaves; chop coarsely, and for about 30 mediumsized heads, allow -i- 
Ib. of salt and mix it well with the chopped cabbage; cover the bot- 
tom of a small oak barrel or cask with cabbage leaves, and press 
the cabbage firmly into the barrel, or pound it clown with a wooden 
pestle. When all the cabbage is firmly packed, cover with cabbage 
leaves and a cloth, then have a round cover that goes into the barrel, 
press it down firmly and put a stone on that to keep it in place. 
As soon as it begins to ferment (and you will know it by the odor) 
place the barrel in a cold cellar or storehouse, where it will not 
freeze. Made in October, it is ready to cook in February. 

TO COOK. — To cook sauerkrout, take it from the barrel, and if 
very sour it can be washed in a plenty of water and drained dry in 
the colander; put butter, dripping or salt pork fat in the frying pan, 
add a sliced onion, if liked, put a few spoonfuls of water in the pan 
with the krout; cover with a plate and stew slowly for an hour; then 
stir it well before taking up. It is eaten with a little pepper and 
vinegar, or with sour baked apples. 

SPINACH. 

BOILED. — Wash it many times in cold water to thoroughly and 
perfectly free it from sand and dust. Then put in a close saucepan, 
without a drojD of water, over a moderate fire; cover closely, and cook 
till tender — about ^ hour. Its own juice runs out, 
and it cooks in that. Spinach should be one of the 
most healthful of springtime vegetables, but its most 
valuable elements are its mineral matters or potash 
salts, and by the old method of cooking they are al- 
most entirely lost. The above method preserves 
them. When done, drain, chop fine, and season with 
butter, pepper and salt; or pour over a cream sauce. 
Serve with slices of hard boiled egg over it. 

Spinach is supposed to be a native of Western Arabia. It spinach. 

was not known to the ancients, but was introduced into Europe 
some 400 years ago. It is laxative, cooling, wholesome, and easily digested, but 
does not afford much nutriment. 




VEGETABLES 251 

SQUASH. 

SUMMER SQUASH.— J5o(7e(f.— They must be so young that the 
thumb nail will strike through the shell. Wash and quarter or slice 
them (you need not remove the skin or seeds); then boil till tender 
in slightly salted water — about 20 or 30 minutes. When done, turn 
off the water and set the kettle back on the stove; mash, and stir to 
let the water dry out, then add butter, salt, and a little white pep- 
per. Keep hot on the back of the stove until time to serve. 

Baked. — Pare the squash, remove the seeds, and steam it until 
tender; then mash, season with butter, pepper and salt, and to a me- 
dium sized squash add 1 cup cracker or bread crumljs; stir together 
well, put it in a greased baking-dish, and bake 1 hour. 

Fried Summer Squash. — Peel the squash, cut it in small squares, 
and fry in hot butter; season with pepper and salt. It will be as 
delicate as, and taste much like egg plant. Try it. 

WINTER SQUASH.— This usuj^lly has a hard shell, and has to 
be broken with a hatchet, by dropping on a plank floor, or by sawing 
with the meat saw. Break in small pieces for the kettle, scrape out 
the seeds, and wash clean. Put the pieces in the kettle with the 
shell side up, have a little salt in the water, which should cover it, 
and cook for an hour, if it does not break to pieces. When done, 
take the shells in a clean (doth, and, with an iron spoon, scrape the 
squash into a basin to keep hot on the back of the range. If too dry, 
moisten with a little water, and add butter, salt and pe^oper to taste. 
Some winter squashes have a thin soft shell and are watery; they can 
be baked in the oven, then seasoned as above. Both summer and 
winter squashes are also steamed instead of boiled by some cooks. 

The squash is a species of the gourd, belonging to the same general order as 
the cucumber and pumpkin. It is a pleasant and wholesome article of food, but 
contains little nutriment, having about 1% of sugar, 2 to 4^ of starch, and less than 
1% of nitrogenous matter. 

TOMATOES. 

BAKED — Scald and skin tomatoes that are whole and firm, and 
ripe enough to be thoroughly red; cut a slice from the stem end, and 
with a sharp knife take out the hard core; arrange them in a round 
baking-tin well buttered, with the cut side upward; put a sprinkle of 
salt and pepi^er over them, and, in each one, a bit of bread well but- 
tered. Then bake. Time, about ^ hour. 

BAKED STUFFED TOMATOES.- Choose large tomatoes, as 
nearly the same size as possible; from the stem end take out the 
seeds and inner part of the tomato; make a stuffing of bread crumbs, 



^52 VEGETABLES 

finely-chopped cold ham, and the chopped tomato; season with but- 
ter, pepper, a little salt and mustard. Fill the tomatoes with the 
stuffing and bake them. Time, about |- hour. Add a little butter to 
them before putting in the oven, and a very little water in the bak- 
ing pan. When they are done, set them where they will keep hot; 
add a little more butter and hot water to the baking=pan, and make a 
thin gravy, thickening it with brown flour and stirring in a table- 
spoon of sugar. 

TOMATOES AND CREAM.— Slice the tomatoes rather thick, 
and turn off all the juice that escapes; sprinkle with sugar, and just 
before they are served pour cream over them To those who have 
never tried it this dish may be uninviting, but to those who are fond 
of the natural flavor of the tomato, it will be found delicious. The 
yellow tomato preserves are very nice served with cream. Accom- 
panied with nice white cake, no daintier dessert could be wished for. 

TOMATO CROUTES.— Small tomatoes are better for this dish. 
Scald and peel, then cut a slice from the stem end, leaving about 
I of the tomato; place them the cut side down, on slices of buttered 
bread, arranged in a buttered baking4in; sprinkle with salt and pep- 
I)er; bake | hour. This dish can be served with cold meat, and is 
well worth trying. 

ESCALLOPED TOMATOES — Tomatoes are escalloped like oys- 
ters. Put a layer of bread crumbs in a buttered baking dish ; over this, 
a layer of sliced tomatoes, seasoned with salt, pepxjer, butter, and a 
very little sugar. Have the top layer of bread crumbs, and scatter 
over it bits of butter, and then bake — time, about |- hour. A little of 
the gravy left from roast meats would add to the flavor, and might be 
poured over just before it is put in the oven. Canned tomatoes can 
be used almost equally well. 

RAW TOMATOES — Tomatoes are often eaten raw. Some peo- 
ple object to having the skin removed, but if properly done, the 
flavor is not injured. Select those which are firm, smooth and fully 
ripe, put them in a pan, and pour on enough boiling water to cover, 
and leave them 15 seconds, but no more; then pour off', and fill the 
dish with cold w^ater. Take out, remove the skins and cores, and set 
on ice till wanted. Cut in thin slices and serve ice cold. They are 
delicious eaten either with sugar alone, or with sugar, salt, pejDper 
and vinegar. They should be prepared several hours in advance, to 
be eaten this way; or, if wanted for breakfast, skin them the night 
before, and keep on ice till ready to use them. 



VEGETABLES 258 

FRIED TOMATOES. -Select the largest firm, ripe tomatoes for 
frying. Cut them in halves and put them in a frying=j)an that can 
be covered, having first melted 2 tablespoons of butter in the pan; 
place the tomatoes with the skin side down, and on the top of each 
half put as much of bread crumbs as it will hold; season with salt 
and pepper. Cover the tomatoes and allow them to cook 10 minutes 
without removing the cover; then take out the tomatoes on a platter 
and set where they will keep hot while you prepare a gravy for them, 
as follows: If the butter has cooked away, add a little more to the 
frying=pan; pour in -I teacuj? of boiling water, then thicken with a 
teaspoon of flour wet with a little water; stir until it boils, season 
with salt and pepper, and pour over the tomatoes. 

TOMATOES AND MACARONI.— Turn 4 lb. tomatoes into a 
sauce-pan, with a spoonful of stock or a bit of butter; let them cook 
until tender enough to pass through a coarse sieve or colander, then 
redieat, season nicely, adding a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar, 
and pour over a flat dish covered with nicely boiled macaroni, not the 
pipe;* thcit answers when it is to be cut into short lengths. Cover 
the surface with grated cheese and bread crumbs, put a few bits of 
butter over it, and brown it before the fire or in a quick oven. 

SALTED TOMATOES.— Pick ripe tomatoes (but not too ripe) 
and put in jars. Put strong salt brine over them, and cover with a 
plate, having the brine just cover them, and then in the winter when 
you want to use them, take out what you want and soak 24 hours in 
cold water, and peel and slice the same as when they are fresh from 
the vines. They are much better in this way than when canned. 

STEWED TOMATOES.— Scald, peel, slice and stew slowly in a 
sauce=pan about ^ hour; then add salt, pepper, butter, and a little 
sugar to sweeten; stew \ hour more, stirring in the seasoning. 
Thicken, if desired, with cracker or bread crumbs, or cornstarch, or 
flour dissolved in cold water. Canned tomatoes pan be prepared in 
the same manner. 

TOMATO TOAST. —Scald and' peel nice, fresh tomatoes, and 
stew till tender — about ^ to | hour; season with butter, salt, pepper 
and a little sugar. Take as many slices of bread as needed for the 
family, toast well, butter, and arrange in layers in a deep dish with 
some of the stewed tomatoes on each slice; cover and serve at once. 

CANNED TOMATOES.— These are nice stewed and baked in 
alternate layers with boiled rice, or boiled macaroni, seasoning the 
layers with butter, pepper and salt. 



254 



VEGETABLES 



The tomato is a native of South America, and belongs to the nightshade order, 
which includes the j>otato and toljacco. It was considered poisonous or unlit for 
food until witliin a coni])aratively few years. The fruit is the only part which is 
eaten. It is a delicious article of food, and exerts a healthful influence upon the 
liver and biliary organs, and is considered by some physicians a good remedy for 
indigestion and dyspepsia. It contains about 6% of sugar, a little less than 1% of 
malic acid, to which it owes its refreshing and cooling qualities, a little pectose, 
etc. The skins will readily come off if boiling water is poured over them and they 
are allowed to stand a while. 

TURNIPS. 

BOILED. — Wash, j)eel, cut in pieces, and boil until tender in 
just enough salted water to cover them. They are then sometimes 
mashed until the lumps are all out, then seasoned with salt, white 
pepper, and a little butter; serve hot. A better way than mashing, 
because it makes them less soggy, is to chop them; when boiled 
tender, turn them into a wooden bowl, season with salt, white pep- 
per and a little butter, chop them very quickly, and put them in the 
oven to become hot before serving. Small turnips are very nice 
served whole, with butter, salt and pepper, and if one has it to spare, 
a few sijoons of cream on them. Time to boil, young, 15 to 20 min- 
utes; if old, f to 1 hour. 

CREAMED TURNIPS. — Boil, cut in dice, and pour over a cream 
sauce. A drawn butter, or any white sauce, can be used instead. 

PIEDMONTESE TURNIPS.— Half boil the turnips; after cutting 
them in slices, butter a pudding=dish, put in the 
turnips, moisten them with a little milk or cream, 
dust over them pepper, salt and bread crumbs, and a 
little grated cheese, and bake in the oven until of a 
bright golden brown. Omit the cheese if preferred. 

The turnip is used throughout the United States and 
Europe, but it does not thrive in a hot climate. It contains 
little nutritive matter, and is good for human food only when 
taken with other articles. When eaten alone it creates flatu- 
lency. It contains no starch but has instead a jelly=Iike sub- 
stance called pectine, and in the best kinds a slightly acid 
quality also. It is somewhat laxative and diuretic. It is not 
good for those with weak digestive organs. Turnips need 
much salt as they contain none, and being without fats or 
starch they go well with fat meats, potatoes, etc., which contain those 

YAMS 

BOILED. — Peel and cut into slices about ^ inch thick, put them 
into a kettle with barely enough salted water to cover; cover closely 
and cook tdl tender — about f to 1 hour. Drain in a colander, keep- 
ing it hot. Make a white sauce, pour it over and serve. 




VEGETABLES 



255 



FRIED. — Peel the yams and slice as above; 
parljoil 20 minutes in slightly salted water; then 
drain, wipe dry, and fry brown in butter, pork fat 
or oil, as preferred; sprinkle with a littlt- salt and 
white pepper while frying. 

The yam is a native of tropical cuuntiits. The roots 
are tuberous, something like our own potatoes. When 
boiled or baked they are nice in flavor, and very nutritious. 
Although somewhat resembling sweet potatoes they are of a 
widely different order, belonging to the order Dioscorea. 
They contain water, 79^; albumenoids, 2%; starch, etc., 16%: 
fats, 0.5$^; mineral matters, 1%%. 




BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 

READ has well been called the staff of life. It is in vegeta- 
ble foods, that which flesh is in animal foods, and each con- 
tains nearly all the elements needed for nutrition. 

Wheat makes the best bread of any cereal. This is ow- 
ing to the peculiar character of its albuminous matter, which is a 
greyish yellowy elastic, sticky substance, called gluten. This gluten 
is a compound of at least 4 albumenoids, called glutenfilm, gluten- 
casein, giiaclin, and muceclin. 

Grains like corn and oatmeal, which lack gluten, do not make good 
bread. Wheat bread best meets the requirements of adult life. The 
gluten furnishes the flesh making elements, and the starch the heat 
giving, while deficiences in the amount of phosphates, etc., can be 
made up by the use of eggs, vegetables, etc. 

The essentials of bread making are (1) perfect cleanliness; (2) 
good flour; (3) good yeast; (4) the dough must rise well; (5) the 
oven must be right — neither too hot nor too cold; (6) the careful 
attention of the cook throughout the process. 

The principal causes of sour bread are using poor yeast, raising 
at too high a temperature, insufficient baking, and cooling in a warm, 
impure atmosphere. 

Wheat bread is the kind most commonly eaten in this country, 
and it is made of the best quality of wheat flour by mixing it with 
water or milk and yeast of some kind, which causes a more or less 
rapid fermentation according to the kind of yeast employed. A 
thorough kneading or molding i^rocess is also essential in making 
this bread, and great care and skill employed in the baking. 

The yeast must be fresh and good or the bread will be heavy and 
indigestible; stale, sour yeast or leaven, produces instead of vinous, 
an acetous fermentation, and the result is a sour, heavy and unwhole- 
some loaf. 

Mixing the Bread. — Always sift the flour before using it, and it 
should also be dry. Dough for bread, if mixed at night, should be 
made late in the evening, and well molded (or kneaded as the process 
is usually called), and in cool or cold weather should be placed 
where it will retain the warmth of the water or milk used in mixing 
the dough. The wetting should be quite warm, but not hot enough 
to scald the yeast. The flour should also be warmed in cold weather 

256 



BKEAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 257 

by setting the pan which contains it on the back of the range, and 
constantly stirring it from the bottom of the pan, until the flour 
feels warm to the hand. The hand is better for stirring it, as a 
spoon does not always prevent its caking in the bottom of the jDan. 
When thus warmed it \n\\ rise much more quickly, and when thor- 
oughly warmed it can be mixed with the warm wetting. A table- 
spoon of salt is added, and many cooks use a . tablesiDoon of sugar, 
which hastens the fermentation and rising of the dough. 

In hot weather the flour does not need warming, and the w*etting 
may also be of the temperature of the air. The dough will be light 
in the morning, and can be molded again, divided into loaves and 
put into the baking-tins to rise again, when it will be ready to bake; 
or, instead of molding it early in the morning, if other work is press- 
ing, or the third rising is desired, it may be cut down with a knife, 
until it is very nearly of the bulk it was before rising, and left to rise 
again until after breakfast is over, when it can be molded to put in 
the baking tins. One good bread making rule is to mold 20 minutes 
at night after mixing, keeping the dough as soft as possible; then cut 
down well the first thing in the morning; after breakfast mold 10 
minutes, with as little added flour as possible, then divide into loaves 
and put it in the baking=tins. 

If dougJi becomes chilled, put the pan at once into a larger one 
filled with warm water, and as fast as the water cools replace it with 
more which is warm, until the dough begins to rise again. By keep- 
ing rising dough at a temperature of about 50° (by putting it in a 
cellar or otherwise), it may be kept at a standstill for hours without 
being injured; then it should be brought into a warm room about an 
hour before baking, to finish the rising process. 

The best wcnj of mixing hrecid is to mix the yeast well into the 
water or milk, and then work in the flour. This is better than the 
old way of making a hole in the flour and then pouring the liquid 
into it, as less kneading will be necessary, and the yeast will be more 
uniformly mixed with the flour. It is better to measure the liquid, 
letting that regulate the size of the loaf, and then add enough flour 
to make it the right consistency, than it is to measure the flour first 
and then add the liquid. Measure the liquid, and either mix in all 
the flour at first, or else add about half at first, making a batter, let it 
rise well, then add the remainder, and let it rise again. By the latter 
method the bread rises more c[uickly, and milk bread may in the 
summer be thus mixed in the morning and baked by noon. House- 
keepers can try the 2 methods and adopt the one which they prefer, 

When yeast bread is mixed in the morning instead of at night 
17 



258 BKEAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 

(and with the quickly rising compressed yeast this is often done) 
instead of molding the bread when first mixed, it can be stirred with 
a spoon, and the flour cut into it, until the dough is quite stiff; then 
cover it to keep it warm and in 2 or 8 hours it will have risen so that 
more flour can be added, then molded, and put into bakingq3ans to 
rise. Many persons prefer this bread as being better and sweeter 
than when risen over. night. 

Remember that getting the dough too stiff is one great fault in 
making bread; aim to have it as soft as 'possible without being at all 
sticky or wet. If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to 
overwork itself, that is to say, if the mixing and kneading be neg- 
lected when it has reached the proper point for either, sour bread 
will probably be the result in warm weather, and bad bread at all 
times. 

The Kneading. — The object in kneading the dough is to thor- 
oughly mix the flour and water, and evenly distribute the yeast, so 
that the fermentation may be uniform. It is best done on a bread 
board, although often done in a mixing bowl. The dough should be 
kneaded until it is a smooth, plastic, even grained mass. The mo- 
tion is hard to describe, but much depends on having the kneading 
thoroughly and i)roperly done. Use as little extra flour as possible. 
Deftness rather than strength counts in the process. If you can pull 
the dough out long, and it springs back to the hand, it is good. 

The Rising. — In setting the dough to rise, the rule is that it 
should rise till its size is a little more than doubled. It is best to 
cover it with several thicknesses of cloth and a tight fitting cover; 
this will keep out the air and prevent a thick crust from forming, 
which will not mix well with the dough when it is kneaded, and 
will cause streaks or spots in the bread. Grease the bowl in which 
the dough is set to rise. 

Care should be taken in rising bread that it is kept warm in cold 
weather; but not too hot, as that induces the acetous fermentation 
instead of the vinous, and the dough sours; about 70° to 80° is right. 
-Old bread makers preferred a slow rise, which they said made a 
sweeter bread, but later scientific, developments point towards a 
quick rising as the best, because yeast being a plant which lives and 
dies, by quick fermentation the plant is living when the bread is 
ready to bake, but by the slower process only the dead spores are 
left. To hasten the process of rising, use plenty of yeast, but do not 
keep it too hot. The less yeast used however, the sweeter the bread 
will be, because the yeast consumes the sugar in the dough, and the 
more yeast used the more sugar will be coiisumed, 



BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 259 

Bread keeps better, especially in hot weather, if no milk is used 
in the mixing; a bit of butter or a little lard may be added to the 
warm water used in mixing the bread, which will give it the neces- 
sary "shortness" when the milk is omitted. When the dough is 
molded and placed in the pans, allow for its doubling in size before 
baking — that is, make up the loaves to half fill the pans. It should 
be placed in the oven before the j)ans are quite full of the risen 
dough, for it rises a little after being iDut in the oven. 

The Bread Pans. — The brick shaped sheet=iron pans are preferable 
to any others, both in shaj^e and material. Round loaves do not cut 
in equal sized or symmetrical slices, and the untinned iron pans are 
better conductors of heat than those bright with tin. Grease the pan 
lightly before putting in the bread. The bread should not be made 
in too large loaves, as it is not so sure of being done in the center; 
besides, the smaller loaves furnish slices of convenient size without 
breaking, or cutting in 2 parts, as is sometimes done when the loaves 
are very large; the niedium=sized i^ans or small ones are the best. A 
loaf is of better shape if molded in 2 i^arts, Mdiich after baking come 
out of the pan as a single loaf. One long loaf will be smaller at the 
ends, and will not cut in nice slices, unless the dough is x^^iHed out 
quite long, and filled in at the ends of the pans. 

The Oven should be well heated, and a steady fire maintained 
during the process of baking. An old. rule for the heat of the oven, 
for bread and most baking, was to have it so that you could "hold 
your hand in it while you counted 12, but no longer, " but the sensi- 
tiveness to heat in different individuals varies and a much better test 
is to throw a tablespoon of fresh flour on the oven bottom. If, after 
a few seconds the flour remains white, the temperature is too low and 
should be increased. If it burns black quickly, takes fire, or assumes 
a dark brown color, the oven is too hot and must be cooled. If it 
turns a blackish or brownish yellow, and looks slightly scorched, the 
oven is right. 

If the oven gets too hot and there is danger of burning the bread, 
put a dish of hot water in the oven, and the steam will prevent its 
scorching; it is better, however, to carefully regulate the heat so that 
this will not be necessary. The right temperature of the oven for 
baking bread is from 400° to 450°. 

Baking the Bread — Medium=sized loaves should have from | to 1 
hour's time for baking, and should turn out of the pan of a yellowish 
brown color on the top, bottom and sides of the loaf. One test is to 
thrust into the loaf a straw taken from the broom; when it is pulled 
out, if it is clear from dough the bread, is done, but if it is sticky the 



260 BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 

bread should be baked longer. Or, if the loaf is baked in 2 parts, 
break them apart, and press with the finger where broken; if clammy 
it is not done and must be baked longer, but if elastic it is done. 

If on opening the oven door you are met with a cloud of steam 
which quickly passes away, in all probability the bread is done. 
Bread should reach tire temperature of boiling water (212°) clear to 
the center, but when carelessly baked, even when burned on the out- 
side, it sometimes does not do so; in such slack=baked bread the yeast 
germs are not all killed, and the bread is not wholesome. In putting 
the pans into the oven leave space enough between them so that the 
heat can freely circulate around each one. 

When turned out of the pan, if the sides of the loaf look white, 
while the top and bottom crust is of a good color, turn the loaf so 
that one side will come at the top and the other at the bottom of the 
pan, return it to the oven and finish browning the sides; if this is not 
done there is danger that the loaf will be doughy in the center. An 
oven too cold will allow the bread to rise . too much, and cause it to 
run over the sides of the pans, which detracts from the flavor of the 
bread. If the oven is too hot it crusts over the top of the loaf and 
causes it to crack at the sides; it will also crack at the sides if it has 
not sufiiciently risen in the pan before putting it in the oven. 

Remember then, that bread should be thoroughly baked, for 
slack-baked bread is both unwholesome and unpalatable; and also 
that bread which "doughs" in the mouth will "dough" in the stom- 
ach, and hence is very indigestible, because it becomes a sticky mass 
which the digestive fluids do not readily penetrate. 

After the loaves are baked put them where the air can freely circu- 
late around them, thus cooling them quickly and carrying away any 
gas remaining about them; do not leave them in the pans. A fine 
wire frame is sometimes used to set them on; or turn the pan bottom 
upward and place the loaf on it, bottom upward also. Do not wet 
the crust or put a wet towel over it; a little butter or lard may be 
rubbed over the crust if preferred, but the moisture from the cooling 
bread will soften the crust sufficiently, and the bread keeps better to 
be cooled quickly. A thin dry cloth may be thrown over if there are 
flies about. 

The best bread cloths are made from coarse table linen. Do not 
use them for anything else, and keep them scrupulously clean. 

Bread keeps best in a tin box with a cover which shuts down tight- 
ly to keep it from drying out quickly. It must be thoroughly cold 
before putting it in the bread=box, or it will not keep well, and be- 
sides the steam from the bread will cause the box to rust— two things 



BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 261 

to be carefully avoided. Do not wrap bread with a cloth while in the 
box, as it is then more apt to mold. If the box is rusty, put a plate 
or platter in the bottom of the box for the bread to rest on. 

If hot bread is put on a wooden table, spread on a cloth before 
doing so, or the part of the bread which touches the table will sweat 
and absorb the odor of the wood. 

Heat the knife when cutting either warm bread or cake, as it 
then cuts much smoother. 

The Bread=box and Remnants. — On the day of baking, while the 
bread is cooling, take all the old pieces from the box, wash, scald, 
and thoroughly dry it, and let it stand in the sun, if possible, until 
the bread is ready to go into it. If there are pieces of old bread left, 
use them in some way, by making them into toast; or, if not enough 
for that, put them on a tin and dry them in the oven, roll fine, and 
use them in puddings, griddle=cakes, croquettes, or in escalloped or 
gratinated dishes. Do not allow a particle of the old bread to go 
back into the bread=box with the new; put it under a pan to keep 
from drying until it is time to use it. It is a good plan to dispose of 
every particle of old bread before beginning on the fresh. 

• Eating Hot Bread, — Bread made with yeast is indigestil)le when 
fresh from the oven, or on the day it is baked, because is is full of 
moisture and the starch is held together in masses which are impen- 
etrable to the saliva, and when chewed by the teeth it forms into 
leathery, poreless masses, which lie in the stomach like lead; it 
ripens, however, after being kept a day, and then the particles of the 
bread separate more easily, so that the digestive fluids can more 
readily come in contact with every portion of them. Hot yeast 
bread, rolls, biscuit, or muffins should never be eaten by persons of 
weak digestion, or by those who suffer from dyspepsia. 

Some people find bread indigestible which is in the least sour; a 
little lime-water (a teaspoon for each loaf of bread) is sometimes 
used in mixing the bread; the lime=^ water being an alkali, neutralizes 
any acid which is generated during the process of fermenta- 
tion. Soda is also sometimes used to correct the sourness in bread, 
but sourness can easily be avoided by proper care, and that is much 
the better plan. 

Mixing Different Flours.— A mixture of | wheat or rye flour and | 
cornmeal makes a bread quite as nutritious as either all wheat or 
rye bread, and more digestible because the lessened quantity of 
gluten makes it less adhesive and more readily penetrated by the 
gastric juices. 

Using Cornmeal.— In most dishes made with cornmeal the addition 



262 BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 

of about 25% of wheat flour increases the adhesiveness of the mix- 
ture, and is an imi^rovement. 

Baking Powder Bread. — If bread runs short, a tin of baking pow- 
der biscuits or a leaking powder loaf of bread can be quickly made, 
and, unless it is eaten too hot, there is no danger of dyspejDsia, as 
bread and biscuits made in this way easily separate into particles. 
This can be readily demonstrated by putting a slice of each kind of 
bread on a platter and wetting them with cold water; the yeast brefid 
can be taken up whole from the water, Mobile that made with baking 
powder falls apart immediately. The baking powder bread is more 
digestible because it thus separates more readily into particles, so 
that the digestive fluids can easily attack every part, while the other 
forms a solid, nearly impenetrable mass in the stomach. Other 
advantages of baking-powder bread are that none of the starch in the 
flour is consumed by the baking powder, as is done by yeast, and 
there are certainly no yeast germs in the bread when eaten. 

Using Pastry Flour. — It is a generally safe rule to use pastry flour 
whenever baking powder is used, and patent flour with yeast. A 
mixture of ^ spring wheat or pastry flour, and ^ winter wheat or pat- 
ent flour, gives good results in yeast breads, and by many is i)re- 
ferred to the i)atent flour alone. 

Prepared flour, which has the baking powder already mixed with 
it, can be obtained at grocery stores, or a quantity can easily be 
prepared at home and kept on hand for. use. The proportion is 2| to 
3 teaspoons of baking powder to the quart of flour, taking care that 
it is well sifted in. 

Adding Sugar and Potatoes. — In fermented bread it is best to add a 
little sugar — not enough to produce a very sweet taste, but merely 
enough to replace that which is decomposed by fermentation, and so 
restore its natural sweetness. Some people object to using sugar, 
but for the foregoing reason it is probably better to use a little. Add- 
ing potatoes to bread dough, which is sometimes done, is unneces- 
sary with the best grades of flour, but with the inferior grades it im- 
proves the bread. 

The Principles Involved, — As the making of bread is the most important 
method of cooking grain food, let us examine the process a little and find the 
principles involved. Grinding the grain removes the indigestible bran, and by 
reducing it to a powder it vastly increases the surface exposed to the action of the 
water and yeast. The water when added causes the expansion of the starch cells, 
and it also gives an agreeable consistence to the bread after it is baked. Each 
grain of flour should be surrounded by a thin film of water; a white, powdery ker- 
nel of unmixed flour is sometimes seen in bread when this is not done. 

Adding a little salt not only causes the dough to rise better in the oven, but 
probably it enal)les the allniminons matter to set more readily, and thus helps to 
prevent the inflated dough from collapsing before the baking is complete. It also 



BEEAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 263 

acts as a condiment and supplies the system with hydrochloric acid and soda 
which are insufficiently supplied by natural foods. 

In leavened bread the dough is subjected to fermentation before it -is baked, 
by introducing leaven or yeast. The yeast cells, which are very much smaller than 
the grains of Hour and are dissolved in the water or milk, should be brought into 
contact with every part of the Hour, and by the kneading', a small quantity of air is 
introduced which favors the subsequent fermentation. When the yeast is well 
mixed in, the action of fermentation is set up equally in all parts of the mass, but, 
if not well mixed, there will be an accumulation of gas in some places, and little or 
none elsewhere. After introducing the yeast the dough is set aside to ferment and 
it is put in a warm place because moderate heat stimulates' the process — about 70° 
to 80 " is right. 

During the process of fermentation millions of small bubbles of carbonic acid 
gas are generated, and these bubbles permeate the mass. These bubbles of gas, 
being very light, naturally rise, but they are held in by the tough, elastic and 
sticky gluten, and so they lift the whole mass and cause it to " rise " or increase in 
bulk. If it was not for this adhesive gluten, the gas would readily escape without 
lifting the bread, and it is because cornmeal and oatmeal lack gluten, and so are 
not "sticky " enough, that they do not make good bread. 

To have good bread, it should undergt) 2 fermentations, (1) the saccharine (or 
sweet) fermentation, and (2) the vi)wus. It will smell a little like foaming beer in 
this stage. A third, or acctova fermentation would follow, but it should never 
be allowed to reach this stage. Should this happen, it can be remedied by add- 
ing 1 teaspoon of soda for each qt. of water or 4 qts. of flour used, because soda 
being an alkali, will neutralize any acid which has been generated, but the bread 
will not afterward be as healthful or nutritious. Bread raised but once is coarse 
of grain but sweet to the taste. 

The risen dough is baked in an oven at a temperature varying between 320° 
and .572^; the alcohol and carbonic acid gas are expelled, the yeast germs are (or 
should be) destroyed by the heat, and various chemical changes are effected. The 
starch granules are mostly ruptured and intimately connected with the gluten, 
a portion of the starch near the surface is converted into dextrin, and a little cara- 
mel is usually produced. 

It is this conversion of the starch into dextrin which makes the crust more 
easily digested than the center — a fact which some people do not understand. 
This turning of the starch to dextrin is the same thing which takes place when 
bread is toasted, as we have explained under toast. More of the starch is turned 
to dextrin in the crust than in the center because it is heated more. The evapora- 
tion of the water inside the loaf while baking, keeps down the temperature there 
to about 212°. 

Some time before the cooking is complete the generation of carbonic acid gas 
will stop, but by that time a hard crust should be formed which will prevent the 
dough from falling. Flour mixed with water and baked, without being made to 
"rise" by using yeast or baking powder, would be solid and almost impenetrable 
by the digestive fluids, and therefore very indigestible, but the expansion caused 
by the carbonic acid gas separates the particles of gluten, and leaves the bread full 
of little holes, into which the digestive fluids readily enter, and so attack the 
bread in every part. 

It will be seen that, as a result of the foregoing processes, bread differs in many 
important respects from the flour from which it is made. In leavened^ bread the 
albumen is coagulated, the starch cells are ruptured, a portion of the starch is 
turned to sugar, and part of that is decomposed into carbonic acid gas and alco- 
hol, and part is turned to dextrin and maltose, and a little caramel is often pro- 
duced. The alcohol generated by decomposing the sugar is all evaporated before 
the bread is fully baked. 

YEAST. 

THREE HOUR YEAST.— Take 1 cup of flour, | cup of sugar, 3 
tablespoons of salt; pour over this 1 pint of boiling water; let it cool, 
then add 1 cuj) of hop yeast. After this gets light, take 3 qts. of 
mashed boiled potatoes, and 3 qts. of warm water and add to the 



264 BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 

other. It will be ready for use the next day. Then 1 qt. of this 
yeast and 1 qt. of warm water will make 6 loaves of bread. With 
this yeast, bread will rise in 8 hours and the bread can be baked the 
same day, which is quite an advantage. 

HOP YEAST.— Take 1 qt. of water, steep a small handful of 
hoj)s in it, and when it has boiled for a few minutes strain this water 
on 6 grated potatoes; then boil them until clear, say 20 minutes, 
stirring all the time; if the potatoes are large, and the i^aste becomes 
too thick, add a little more water; while it is boiling, stir in ^ cup of 
sugar and a tablespoon of salt; when it has cooled so that it is luke- 
warm, add a teacup of yeast; let it rise over night, then stir it down, 
and put in the yeast jar; cover tightly and set it in the cellar. This 
yeast usually keeps 2 weeks in hot weather, and longer in cold. A 
coffee-cup of this yeast, and 2 qts. of warm water or milk, with a 
little salt, and lard or butter, will make 6 or 8 loaves of bread, 
according to the size of the pans. 

POTATO BALL YEAST — Take a pint of finely mashed boiled 
potatoes and have it as dry as possible; add 2 tablespoons of sugar, 
and 1 tablespoon of salt. Soak 1 fresh yeast cake in as little water 
as possible, and when the potato is cool add the yeast; mix thorough- 
ly, and set it in a cool place for 2 or 3 days. When you wish to set 
bread to rise, have about as much fresh mashed jjotato, with sugar 
and salt added, as you took at first; mix this thoroughly with the 
first, then divide it in half; roll up one half in a ball for the next 
baking; add the other half to water sufficient for sponge for the 
bread. 

MILK YEAST OR RISING.— Take 1 pint of new milk; in the 
morning add ^ teaspoon of salt; stir in, and beat for ^ minute, 2 
tablespoons of flour; then place the pitcher in a kettle of warm 
water, and where it will keep warm, but not hot (about 110°). It 
takes about 5 hours for it to rise. Instead of milk, water is some- 
times used, and then it is called salt=rising. Mix the rising with a 
quart of warm water and a little salt; make a stiff sponge, and let it 
rise again; then mold and put in the pans to bake. 

YEAST CAKES. — Take common home-made yeast, and when 
the fermentation ceases stir in enough cornmeal to make a dough. 
Roll out, cut in squares, and dry thoroughly. Do not dry in the 
oven as the heat will kill the yeast germs; choose a dry day to make 
them, and dry in the shade rather than in the sun. Keep them 
where it is shady, but where the air circulates freely; they will keep 
indefinitely. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, ETC. 265 

On examining yeast under a microscope it is found to consist of a collection 
of small oval cells, of a vegetable nature, known as yeast cells, or yeast plant. It 
is really a living plant, and if this was well understood many mistakes in its use 
could be avoided. Extremes of heat and cold kill it, and an unfavorable tempera- 
ture will check its active growth, even though it may not be hot or cold enough to 
kill or prevent its growing in future under more favorable conditions. The better 
the food suits the yeast the faster it grows. Rough usage will also prevent its 
growth. Under favorable conditions it grows very fast, as much as will lie on a 25 
cent i^iece will fill a cuj) in 1 or 2 hours. Given a little good yeast and any amount 
more can be grown. People talk about keeping yeast, but it is only kejjt as one 
year's corn is kept to be sown for the next year's crop. 

Yeast as it grows converts into sugar some of the starch with which it comes 
in contact, and this sugar it decomposes into alcohol and carbonic acid gas, and it 
is to this action that it owes its value, because the carbonic acid gas thus formed 
will permeate the mass and cause it to "rise." 

The yeast plant can live in a temperature ranging between 30° and 170°, but 
it thrives best between 70° and 80°. 

Good yeast is yellow, or greyish yellow in color; the more brown it is the 
more dead germs there are. A blue line sometimes appears; it is due to mold, and 
bread made from such yeast will soon become moldy. Yeast with a pungent odor, 
and which is foamy and full of bubbles is good; if it has an acid odor and looks 
watery it has spoiled. Potato starch is the best for the growth of the yeast plant, 
and old potatoes are preferable to new for the reason that there is more sugar in 
them. If all the starch cells in the flour or potato used are broken by boiling, the 
yeast acts on them more readily. 

Salt and sugar are added to aid the fermentation. The office of hops or 
ginger when used is to keep the yeast from souring, which they do by stopping 
the fermentation before all the sugar is decomposed into alcohol, and if too much 
is not used they give it a pleasant flavor. Tin or iron vessels may turn the yeast 
dark, but this can be prevented by mixing with a wooden spoon in an earthen 
vessel, and boiling the potatoes and hops in a non=metallic kettle, either granite or 
porcelain lined. Of the 3 kinds of yeast in common use — liquid, dry and com- 
pressed — each has its advantages, and any kind is good which makes good bread. 

BAKING POWDER. 

8 ounces cream of tartar. 4 ounces of corn=starch. 

4 ounces baking soda. 

Powder the ingredients and sift them together several times, as 
the chief danger of failure lies in not having them well mixed. This 
baking powder will do all that can be done by any baking powder on 
the market. The U. S. Department of Agriculture has ftdly tested 
and recommends this powder, their chemist saying in his report: 
" The consumer can pay full retail price for. the ingredients and still 
make it up for about \ the price at which a good baking powder is 
sold, and if she makes sure of the quality of her cream of tai'tar, she 

will have an article of which the purity is assured I can 

see no reason why all housekeepers should not make their own 
baking powder." 

Baking powder should always be mixed with the flour before 
adding the other ingredients. 

The action of baking powder consists in the fact that when wet with water the 
alkali (soda) and the acid (cream of tartar) of which it is composed, will effervesce, 
and in so doing, will give off carbonic acid gas; this operates in the same way as 
the gas generated by yeast — that is, it permeates the mass of dough and causes it 



266 BREADS 

to "rise" or swell up. The action of the baking powder will soon be over, how- 
ever, and if the bread or pastry is not baked at once, the gas which it generates 
will escape, the dough will settle down in a solid mass, and the whole value of the 
powder will be lost. 

To succeed when using baking powder or soda 2 things are essential: (1) The 
baking powder (or soda and cream of tartar) must be thoroughly and perfectly 
mixetl with tlie Hour. (2) After the raising agencies have been wet so that they 
begin to work, push the operation rai)idly to comi:>letion; and when all is ready 
bake without delay. After the soda and acid are mixed to form the baking pow- 
der they do not act on each other as long as tliey are kept dry; the only reason for 
adding starch or flour is to absorb moisture and keep them dry. As soon as they 
are wet the action begins. 

Baking powder can be made by using only }<^ as much starch as we give in 
the above formula, or with even less;. the powder will then be a little stronger, but 
it will not keep as well, so that for ordinary use we prefer the proportions there 
given. If you cannot getpirrc creain of tartar use tartaric acid instead, as that is 
less often adulterated. It answers the san\e purpose, but use only ^i fts much. 

People as a rule will not tire of yeast bread as quickly as they will of soda 
bread, and inferior materials can be used with yeast better than with baking 
powder. 



BREADS. 

IVie Time to Bcikc Bread is | to 1 hour, but it is better to bake 
10 minutes longer than not enough. 

WHITE BREAD. 

Take 1| quarts of milk and scald it till the top is covered with a 
thin skin, by setting it over a good fire in a double boiler; then pour 
it out and let it cool after adding 1 oz. butter; now add 1 cake com- 
pressed yeast dissolved in 1 cup lukewarm water. After it has 
cooled, add 1 tablespoon of salt, and about 1^ quarts of flour (or 
enough to make a good batter) and for 5 minutes beat energetically; 
then set it in a warm place to rise over night, covering it with a 
cloth. The next morning early, while it is still in the boAvl, work in 
with the hand about 4 ]3ints of flour (or enough to form a good 
dough); then take it out on to the bread4:>oard and knead 15 or 20 
minutes. Sufficient kneading is essential to the quality of the 
bread, so work it till the dough is *)ft and the gas thoroughly 
distributed through it. Then put it back in the bowl and set it in a 
warm jjlace till it becomes quite light (about o hours probably). 
Shape into loaves and put into the pans, and bake when risen, 
pricking with a fork to let out any gas within the loaf. Time to 
bake, 50 t<» 60 minutes. 

WATER BREAD. 

Mix together l-^ quarts of bread flour and 1 teaspoon of salt; rub 
in 1 teaspoon of butter until fine like meal. Soak a whole yeast cake 



BREADS 267 

in I cup of lukewarm water, and mix the liquid with the dry mix- 
ture; add enough more flour to make it stiff enough to knead, and, 
when well kneaded, place it in a bowl, cover it well and set it to rise 
for 3 hours; then cut it down, shape into loaves, place in buttered 
pans, let it rise again, and bake about 50 minutes. If the bread is 
set to rise at night, use ^ of a yeast cake, but, as we elsewhere ex, 
plain, the latest investigations point to a quick rising as best. 

ENTIEE WHEAT BREAD. 

Scald 1 pint milk, add I cup sugar and 1 teaspoon of salt; after 
it has cooled, add 1 yeast cake dissolved in J cup of lukewarm water, 
and 4-| cups of fine granulated wheat; mix well with a broad knife or 
spoon; cover, and set it to rise for about 3 hours, or until it doubles 
its bulk; then cut it down, turn it into buttered pans, let it rise again, 
and bake about 50 minutes, Whole or entire wheat bread is mixed 
soft, or only stiff enough to handle with a spoon or knife. Entire 
wheat bread is more crumbly than white wheat bread. 

ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD No. 2. 
Take 4 even cups of entire wheat flour, and 1 cup plain white 
flour (before sifting), ^ of a compressed yeast cake (dissolve it in 
lukewarm water), 1 tablespoon of butter (before melting), ^ cup of 
molasses; stir in lukewarm milk and water to make it less stiff than 
for white bread; beat and stir, but do not knead it; turn into a 
greased baking^pan, let stand tilj light, and bake nearly an hour. 

ENTIRE WHEAT BREAD WITH BAKING POWDER. 

Take 2 pints flour, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 1 saltspoon of 
salt; mix thoroughly, and then stir in 2 cups cold water; turn into a 
well greased baking-pan and bake 1 hour. 

HALF AND HALF BREAD. 

A very nice bread is made by using 3 cups each of white flour 
and granulated or entire wheat flour; add the other ingredients and 
mix as directed in the last recipe. -^ 

Entire wheat is sometimes called |jraham, but is not exactly the same, as it has 
all the nutritive part of the grain witiiout the silica in the bran, which is like pow- 
dered glass, and often irritates the stomach and intestinal canal. Always buy the 
best graham and entire wheat, as the cheaper grades may be siftings mixed with 
third rate Hour. Before measuring entire wheat flour, sift it, not to remove the 
bran, but to make it lighter: if unsifted, the measurements wilfnot be accurate. If 
graham or entire wheat bread is moistened with molasses, do not set it to rise over 
night, for you will then surely have an acetous fermentation. As entire wheat flour 
is much more nutritious than clear white flour, its more extended use is very desir- 
able. 

MILK BREAD. 

Take 2 cups scalded milk, in which melt 1 tablespoon butter; add 



268 BREADS 

1 teaspoon salt and 1 tablespoon of sugar; when cool add | cup yeast, 
and stir in just flour enough to knead it well — about 6 to 7 cups. 
Knead well, cover, let rise till light; cut down, divide into 4 parts, 
shape into loaves or biscuit, put into i^ans, let rise again, and bake. 
Time to bake, 40 to 50 minutes. 

BAKING POWDER BREAD. 

Sift together thoroughly 1 quart flour, 1 teaspoon salt, \ tea- 
spoon sugar, and 2 heaping teaspoons baking powder. Then add 
enough water to make a stifP dough (about 2 cups, more or less, ac- 
cording to the flour) and stir it together quickly with a large S]30on; 
then turn it immediately into a well greased, brick=shaped baking- 
pan, and bake at once for '\ hour in a hot oven, covering with paper 
the first \ hour, to prevent its crusting over too soon. Have the oven 
heated right before beginning to mix the bread, and have the i)an 
greased and ready. 

ONCERAISED BREAD. 
Have the breacbbowl warm, if it is an earthen one, and the 
weather cold; put a i^iece of butter in it the size of an ego,, and a 
tablespoon of salt; then -\}o\\v over it a cj[t. of hot milk and water; stir 
cold flour into it, until it is a batter that can be beaten with a spoon, 
and beat w^ell for a minute; then add a cake of compressed yeast 
mixed with a little cold water. The batter at this time should be 
lukewarm; wait a little for it to cool if it is too hot, but the cold flour 
usually makes it just right; beat in the yeast another minute, then 
place a pan of flour on the back part of the stove, put both hands in 
it and stir constantly from the bottom of the pan, until the flour feels 
warm all through; then stir into the batter enough to make a stiff 
dough — cutting in the flour with the spoon — do not knead it; put a 
little flour on the top and press it down flat all around the spoon 
with the back of the fingers. Set the bowl or pan over a kettle or tin 
pail of hot water on the cooking table, cover with a cloth, and let it 
rise up light, which will be in 3 hours; stir dovv'n once, let it come up 
again, take it on the molding=board, with a little flour, and knead 10 
minutes; make in 8 small loaves, let them rise to twice their former 
bulk, and bake nearly an hour. Bread mixed in this way, as late as 
10 o'clock, will be out of the oven by 8 in the afternoon, making a 
delicious bread with little trouble. 

MILK, OR SALT RISING BREAD. 

Early in the morning (the earlier the better) mix in a i^itcher a 
pint of warm water, or \ water and \ new milk, with flour enough to 



BREADS 



269 



make a thin batter. Put the pitcher in a kettle of warm water, and 
keep it at an even heat — about 70° to 80°. Cover the pitcher with a 
saucer, and in about 5 hours it will begin to rise (not frothy, like 
hop yeast, but wuth very fine bubbles); then add 1 qt. water with a 
little more salt, and mold in flour to make a soft dough, and put it in 
8 brick-shaped baking^tins to rise. When it has risen to nearly 
twice its bulk in the pans, it is ready to bake. This bread requires 
great care in making, and much time. It gives off a disagreeable gas 
while rising, but that is all driven off in the baking, leaving a fine= 
grained, most delicious bread. 

BUTTERMILK BREAD. 

Take 2 cups sour buttermilk, warm it, and add 1 cake of yeast 
and 1 teasj)oon soda (scant); add 2 teaspoons sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 

1 tablespoon butter and form to a soft dough with warm flour; knead 
well, let it rise, knead again, put in greased tins, let rise and bake 
about 1 hour, 

BROWN BREAD 

2 cups cornmeal. 1 cup graham flour. 
1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup rye meal. 1 cup molasses. 

1 cup water. A little salt. 

Bake 2 hours in a covered tin. 



2 cups sweet milk. 

1 cup molasses. 

2 cups sour milk. 
^ cup sugar. 

Steam 3 hours, 



BROWN BREAD No. 2. 

4 cups cornmeal. 
2 teaspoons salt, scant. 
2 cups flour. 
2 teaspoons soda, 
and bake ^ hour. 

BROWN BREAD No. 3. 

1 teaspoon soda. 
1 cup graham flour. 
A little salt. 



3 cups sour milk. 
2 cups cornmeal. 
|- cup molasses. 

Steam 3 hours and bake | hour. If the milk is very sour, use ^ 
sweet milk. 

BROWN BREAD No. 4. 

1 cup sour milk. | cup wheat flour. 

2 cups graham flour. 2 tablespoons brown sugar. 
1 teaspoon salt. 1 large teaspoon soda. 

■| cup molasses, scant. 

Steam 2^ hours, and bake ^ hour in a slow oven. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD. 

Take 1 cup each of cornineal, rye meal and graham meal; mix all 



270 BREADS 

three together; mix in 1 cup molasses, 3 cups rich sour milk, 1 des- 
sertsfjoon soda, 1 teaspoon salt. Put it in a covered pail, leaving 
room for it to rise, set it in a kettle of cold water, putting a ring un- 
der the jjail to keep it from burning; boil 4 hours, and do not once 
et the water stop boiling, and do not remove the cover till done. 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD No. 2. 
Take 2 cups cornmeal, and the same of either rye or graham 
flour; sift together with 1 teasjjoon salt; add 1 cup molasses, § cup 
sour milk or cream, 1 teaspoon soda (dissolved in a little boiling 
water); mix all well and add 2^ cups cold water; pour into a well 
greased pan and steam 4 hours. It will look thin when ready to 
steam, but will come out all right. 

CORN BREAD. 

Warm 1 pint of milk, stir in enough cornmeal to make a thin 
batter, add ^ cup shortening, 3 eggs, 1 heai)ing teaspoon of baking- 
powder; heat the tins it is to be baked in, and bake quickly. It is 
splendid, and bakes promptly. As a rule corn bread requires a 
longer time to bake than either graham or wheat bread. 

CORN BREAD No. 2. 

Mix "I cup cornmeal with 1 cup white flour, and add 1 teaspoon 
salt. Beat together till light, 1 egg and 2 tablespoons sugar; add 3 
tablespoons melted butter, and | cup sweet milk; then stir in the 
above flour mixture, beat smooth and add 2 teaspoons baking pow- 
der. Put into greased pans, and bake -| hour in a moderately quick 
oven. 

STEAMED CORN BREAD. 

Take 2 cups sour milk, 2 cups cornmeal, ^ cup white flour, 4 
tablespoons molasses, 2 teaspoons soda, a little salt; steam 1-| hours, 
and bake |- hour. 

WHITE CORN BREAD {Southern). 
2 cups white cornmeal. 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 cup white flour. 1 teaspoon sugar. 

1 tablespoon baking powder. Butter size of an egg. 

Use milk or water to make a soft dough; bake in a loaf, or if 
preferred, in shallow baking-tins. 

KENTUCKY EGG CORN BREAD. 

Take 2 pints cornmeal, 3 cups buttermilk, 1 or 2 eggs, 1 tea- 
spoon soda (scant), 1 teasiDoon salt, 1 tablespoon lard; mix well, and 
bake quickly, 



BREADS 271 

RICE BREAD. 

Boil 1 lb. rice till tender in water or milk (milk is best) and 
mash it; then with the hands, rub the rice into 4 lbs. flour, in the 
same manner that butter is rubbed in, mixing it thoroughly; add 3 
teaspoons sugar, 1 tablespoon salt, and 1 cake compressed yeast dis- 
solved in 2 pints lukewarm milk or water, have the dough soft to the 
touch, knead thoroughly, and let it rise, then knead again thor- 
oughly, form into loaves, put into greased i)ans, let rise, and bake in 
a good oven. Excellent, especially if made with milk. 

CAROLINA RICE BREAD. 

Take 3 welbbeaten eggs, add 8 cups sweet milk, 2 cuj)s white corn- 
meal, ^ pint cold boiled rice; 1 tablespoon butter, melted, 1 teaspoon 
salt; beat together well, and add 1 tablespoon baking powder; mix 
all thoroughly, put in greased pans, and bake | hour. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

3 cups sour milk. 1 cup molasses. 

2 teaspoons soda. 1 egg. 

1 teaspoon salt. 

Graham flour to make a stiff dough; bake slowly. 

GRAHAM BREAD No. 2. 
Make a stiff batter of 1 cup warm water thickened with graham 
flour; add to it 3 cup of yeast; let it rise over night; in the morning 
add a small piece of butter, ^ cup sugar, and wheat flour to mold; 
put it in well greased pans, let it rise, and bake slowly 1 hour. Gra- 
ham bread bakes slower than white bread, 

GLUTEN BREAD. 

Scald 2 cups milk and add, when lukewarm, 1 teaspoon salt and 
^ cujD good yeast; make it to a thick batter by adding gluten flour, 
and beat thoroughly; add the well beaten whites of 2 eggs, and 
enough flour to make a soft dough. Knead (without adding more 
flour), let stand until light; turn into well greased pans, let rise 
again, and then bake in a moderate oven | hour. 

OATMEAL BREAD. 

Boil 2 cups oatmeal as for porridge, add ^ teaspoon salt, and 
when cool, ^ cup molasses, and ^ a yeast cake or ^ cup yeast; stir in 
enough wheat flour to make as stiff as it can be stirred with a s^joon; 
put it into 2 well greased tin pans, and let stand in a warm place till 
very light; bake about 1^ hours. Do not cut until the day after it is 
baked. This will make delicious thin slices; butter each slice before 
cutting it from the loaf, and then cut a§ thin as possible with a very 
sharp knife, 



272 BKEADS 

EYE BREAD. 

Bread made of bolted rye flour is made in the same manner as 
white wheat bread; that made from rye meal is made according to 
recipes for graham bread. Rye bread is often made with 4 [)arts rye 
flour, 1 part cornmeal, and a handful of wheat flour. It should bake 
2 or 3 hours in a slow oven ; or steam it 2 hours, and then bake 1 
hour. 

PUMPKIN BREAD. 

Make a plain corn=bread batter; beat into it 1 cup of stewed 
pumpkin (that left from dinner will do). Bake in either the bread 
pan or in gem tins. 

SQUASH BREAD. 

Take 1 cup stewed and sifted squash, and mix in 2 tablespoons 
of sugar and 1 teaspoon salt; melt 1 tablespoon butter in 1| cups 
scalded milk, and when lukewarm, add | cup yeast, and flour enough 
to knead; knead ^ hour, let rise till light; knead again, put it into 
greased tins, let rise again, and bake. 

UTILIZING STALE BREAD. 

(1) Bread crumbs can be utilized in so many ways that every 
piece of stale bread and the ends of loaves should be saved and pre- 
pared for use in the various dishes which call for bread crumbs. 
(2) Put the stale bread on a bakings tin, and set it on the shelf in 
the oven where it will dry and slightly brown; when thoroughly 
crisp, i^lace it on the molding=board, roll it finely, and keep it in a 
jar well covered. These are dried bread crumhs and should not be 
used for scalloped dishes or bread puddings, as they absorb so much 
moisture. (3) Stale bread crumbs can be made into griddle cakes; 
or used in an omelet; or used with stewed tomatoes, and in many 
ways. 

Steamed Stale Bread. — When bread or biscuit become very dry they 
may be steamed a few minutes, which will make them very palat- 
able. Stale pieces can be freshened by dipping them in water, and 
putting them for a few minutes in a moderately hot oven. A stale 
whole loaf can be freshened in this way without first di^^ping in 
water, although many cooks are not aware of it; for this purpose 
the oven should not be too hot — say 2G0° to 300° is best. The 
steam which is generated opens out the. pores which had shrunk 
together. Or put a stale loaf in a deep pan, cover with another pan, 
and set in a moderate oven 20 minutes; then take from the pan and 
set on end to cool; it will cut like a fresh loaf. 



BISCUITS 273 

BISCUITS. 

Time to Ba1{c Biscaits, about 10 to 20 minutes. 

BAKINQ=POWDER BISCUITS. Have the oven hot to begin 
with, then rub a piece of butter the size of an English wahiut into 
a cup of flour^ and butter your baking4ins Next put a level tea- 
spoon of salt, and two heaping teaspoons of baking powder in the 
flour, and stir it well. Up to this time you can work leisurely, but 
from this onward, work as fast as you can " fly." Add a cup of 
sweet milk, stir it, and add enough more flour to make a soft dough; 
take it out onto the molding board, and form it quickly into a round 
mass; cut it in 2 parts, then 4, then 8; give the pieces just a roll 
in the floured hands, put it in the tin, and bake 8 or 10 minutes. The 
oven should brown them top and bottom in that time. Everybody 
likes them. 

CREAM BISCUIT. — To 1 quart of flour use 2 teaspoons baking 
powder a pinch of salt, and rich sweet cream to make a soft dough. 
Bake in a quick oven. 

BEAT BISCUIT.— Take 2 quarts of flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 ta- 
blespoon of butter and 1 tablespoon of lard rubbed in the flour; mix 
to a stiff dough with water. Beat with the rolling'j)in until perfect- 
ly light, turning and folding as you work; do not cut the dough, 
but break off pieces and form into little biscuits, and bake in a 
quick oven. 

ENTIRE WHEAT BEAT BISCUIT.— Take 1 quart whole wheat 
flour, 3 rounded tablespoons lard, 4 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon 
salt, 1 cup each of water and milk; mix thoroughly, lay it on the 
molding^board, and beat with the rollingpin until it ceases to be 
sticky; roll out, cut into biscuits (be sure and thoroughly prick 
each one), and bake f hour in a moderate oven. 

For Wafers take some of the dough so prepared, roll thin, but- 
ter it, beat again, roll very thin, cut out, and bake. -^ 

RAISED BISCUIT. — Set a sponge of 2 cups milk, a little salt 
and ^ cake compressed yeast, and let it rise; beat butter the size of 
an egg with 2 tablespoons sugar and 1 egg; stir them into the sponge, 
adding flour to make a stiff batter; stir well, let it rise, and when 
light, take dough enough with a spoon for each biscuit, work light- 
ly into shax^e, put in a i3an, let rise, and bake. 

MILK BISCUIT.— Rub i lb. butter and 1 saltspoon of salt into 
2^ lbs. flour; add 1 cup yeast and enough boiled milk (have it 
18 



274 BUNS, EUSKS, ROLLS, ETC. 

lukewarm when used) to make a tolerH])ly stiff dongli; knead well, 
let it rise over niglit, knead again in the morning, i)ut into greased 
tins, let rise, and bake in a quick oven. 

BUTTERMILK BISCUIT.-Sift 4 cups flour, add 1 teaspoon 
salt, and rub in 1 tablespoon lard, and 1 tablespoon butter; make 
into a soft dough with buttermilk, roll out, cut out, and bake 
quickly. 

DROP BISCUIT.-Take 1 cup milk, 1 level teaspoon salt, 1 
tablespoon baking powder stirred into 1 cu^j tl(jur; beat all together, 
and add enough flour to make a stiff batter. Drop in spo(jnfuls on a 
buttered tin, and bake quickly in a hot oven. 

Drop Biscuit No. Z.^Take 1 quart flour, add 1 tablespoon sugar, ^ 
teaspoon salt, 3 heaping teaspoons baking powder, and milk sufficient 
to form a stiff batter. Drop in spoonfuls on a buttered tin, and bake 
•in a very quick oven. 

SHORTCAKE BISCUIT — To 4 cups flour use 1 large tablespoon 
butter, a little salt, 3 teaspoons baking powder (heaped), and milk 
enough to roll out as soft as possible. 

SODA BISCUIT.- — Into 4 cups sifted flour sift 1 teaspoon soda, 
2 teaspoons cream tartar and 1 teaspoon salt; ml) in with the hand 1 
tablespoon lard or butter; make it into a soft dough with sweet milk. 

GRAHAM BISCUIT.— Use 2 cups graham flour, 2 cups wheat 
flour, 1 tablespoon butter, 2 tablespoons molasses, 1 teaspoon soda, 2 
teaspoons cream of tartar (or 3 teaspoons baking powder instead), a 
little salt; sift the last 3 ingredients into the wheat flour, add the 
graham flour, rub into the butter thoroughly, moisten with milk or 
water to make a dough just stiff enough to roll out; roll thin, cut in 
small cakes, and bake in a quick oven. Double this recipe if the 
family requires it. 

TUTTI FRUTTI BISCUIT.— Mix bits of fruit liberally into the 
dough of common soda biscuit before baking it, as fruit is put into 
cake; very nice. Tea rolls are nice with fruit put in in the same 
way. 

BUNS, RUSKS, ROLLS, ETC. 

BUNS. 

Time to Bake, 20 to 30 minutes. 

PLAIN. — LTse 1 quart flour, 1 large cup warm milk, \ cup butter 
or lard, -J teasi)oon salt, |- cuj) sugar, |- a grated nutmeg, \ a yeast 
cake (or |- cup yeast), 2 eggs; dissolve the butter in the milk, beat 



BUNS, RUSKS, ROLLS, ETC. 275 

the eggs separate, add all to the flour; the dough should be very 
soft; knead well, let rise over night, and in the morning break into 
pieces the size of a large egg, work them into rather flat cakes, put 
them on a buttered pan, about ^ inch apart, let rise to double size, 
then cut a cross on top of each bun (not too deep) with a sharp 
knife, and bake in a moderate oven about 25 minutes. 

ENGLISH BUNS.— Use | teacup butter rubbed into 1 pint 
Hour, I cup sugar, ^ cup Zante currants washed and dried, 1 level 
teaspoon salt, 2 cups new milk, -J cup good yeast; mix all together, 
and add enough flour to mold into a soft dough, let rise till light, 
mold down again, keeping the dough as soft as possible, roll out, and 
cut with a biscuit cutter. Let them rise till very light in the bak- 
ing tins, and bake until they are a nice yellowish brown on top and 
bottom — about 25 minutes. Brush them over to glaze with a little 
sugar and milk mixed, and return to the oven till the glazing dries. 

CINNAMON BUNS.— Rub ^ teacup butter into a coffee cup of 
flour; add a little salt, and a heai^ing teaspoon of baking powder; 
then add a coffee cui3 of sweet milk, and enough flour to roll out into 
a large thin sheet. Spread with soft butter, sprinkle with sugar and 
cincamon, roll up, and cut into buns. Bake about 20 minutes. 

RUSKS. 

Time to Bake, 20 to 30 minutes. 

PLAIN. — Into 1 quart of flour rub a piece of butter the size of a 
large egg; beat 2 eggs well, add 2 cups warmed new milk, flavor with 
a little cinnamon, and add'"-| teacup of fresh yeast; mix thoroughly 
wkh the flour, but do not mold; let it rise, and add a little more flour 
if too thin to mold, cut in pieces the size of biscuits, knead each one 
separately, place in a buttered pan, let rise till quite light and bake. 

BAKING POWDER RUSK.— Sift 2 tablespoons sugar, | teaspoon 
salt, and 1 tablespoon baking powder into 3 cups flour, and then rub 
in 2 tablespoons cold lard; add 2 well beaten eggs, 2 cups sweet milk, 
1 teaspoon each cinnamon and nutmeg extract; mix into a dough 
soft enough to handle, and turn out on the molding= board; turn 
quickly once or twice to smooth it, break off pieces about the siza of 
an egg, roll into small balls with the hand, and lay close together in 
a well greased baking-tin. Wash over the top, to glaze it, with a 
little milk and melted butter mixed; bake ^ hour in a moderate oven. 
Sift fine white sugar on top when cold. 

BRIOCHES. 

Dissolve ^ a yeast cake in ^ teacup of lukewarm water; mix 



276 BUNS, KUSKS, ROLLS, ETC. 

with enough flour to make a thick sponge, cover with a cloth, and let 
rise in a warm place till it doubles in bulk; then add ^ teacup milk, 
5 eggs, 1 saltspoon salt, and | lb. dissolved butter; beat all together 
well, add flour to make a dough, and let rise again 1 to 1^ hours; 
then turn on to the molding board, flour as little as possible, and roll 
the sides over into the middle several times. Then form into tiny 
loaves, laying 1 flattened ball of dough onto a little larger loaf, 
making an indentation for it in the center of the lower one with the 
thumb. Brush over with white of egg, and bake in a quick oven — 
about ^ hour. 

ROLLS. 

Time to Bake rolls, 10 to 20 minutes. 

FRENCH ROLLS. — Rub 1 ounce butter in 1 quart flour; mix 
in 1 beaten egg, a little yeast, and as much milk as will make a 
rather stiff batter; beat well, but do not knead, let rise, and then 
bake in tins. Very nice. 

COFFEE ROLLS.— Take 1 quart of light dough, mix in 1 
tablesjjoon of lard and ^ cuj) of sugar; then roll thinner than biscuit, 
spread with butter, sugar and cinnamon, and sprinkle a little flour 
over. Roll up 2 turns and cut off, standing them on end in the tin; 
let rise, and bake in a quick oven. 

GRAHAM ROLLS. — Mix 4 cups graham flour with enough milk 
to make a stiff batter; add ^ cup good yeast and let rise over night; 
in the morning add 1 large tablespoon sugar, 2 eggs, butter size of 
an egg, | teaspoon soda, and a little salt; put it in cups and let stand 
20 minutes before baking. 

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS — Make a hole in 2 quarts of flour, 
and pour in 1 pint of milk which has been boiled and ^ cup butter or 
lard melted in it and allowed to cool; add ^ cup sugar, 1 teaspoon 
salt, and ^ cup good yeast; let it stand over night without mixing; in 
the morning, mix and knead; let rise till after dinner, when knead 
again, roll | inch thick, cut out, and let rise till baked. Bake about 
^ hour. 

CRACKERS. 

PLAIN. — Into 2 quarts flour rub well with the hand 1 cup 
butter, and 1 teaspoon salt; wet with cold water, beat thoroughly 
with the rolling-pin, and work in flour enough to make quite brittle 
and hard; then pinch off pieces, and if you want them to look like 
baker's crackers, roll each piece separately. 



JOHNNY CAKE, PONES, ETC. 277 

CORN=STARCH CRACKERS.— Sift together 3 cups flour, 1 cup 
corn^starch, ^ teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon sugar, and 1 teaspoon 
baking powder; rub into this 1 tablespoon lard, and add 1 cup sweet 
milk, mixing it to a smooth dough; slightly flour the bread=board, 
turn out the dough, and get it into smooth and even form with as 
little kneading as possible; then spread a clean towel over it and 
let it stand 10 minutes. Then roll very thin with the rolling=pin, 
cut with the cutter, prick with a fork, and put them on a greased 
baking=tin; wash the top of the crackers over with milk, and bake 8 
minutes in a very hot oven. These make a delightful accompani- 
ment for salads. 

GRAHAM CRACKERS. — Sift 1 heaping teaspoon baking pow- 
der and 1 even teaspoon salt into 4 cui)s sifted graham flour; rub in 
|- cup butter or lard, and make into a stiff dough with sweet milk or 
cold water; knead 10 minutes, using white flour to prevent its adher- 
ing to the board; roll thin, cut in squares, and bake in a moderate 
oven. 

TO FRESHEN CRACKERS — Stale crackers may be freshened 
by putting them in the oven for a few minutes. It is not necessary 
to moisten them. 

GRAHAM DIAMONDS. 

To 4 cups graham flour add 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, 
and pour on boiling water to scald thoroughly; work into a soft 
dough, roll out ^ inch thick, cut into diamonds with a sharp knife, 
and bake 80 minutes in a quick oven, or till crisis. 



JOHNNY CAKE, PONES, ETC. 

JOHNNY CAKE. 

Time to Bake, 20 to 30 minutes. 

Use 1 cuf) sour milk, 3 tablespoons molasses, 1 egg,^-| teaspoon 
soda; add cornmeal sufficient i;o make a thin batter. 

POTATO JOHNNY CAKE.— To 2 cups finely mashed potatoes 
add 2 cups flour in which has been mixed ^ cup of lard; add milk 
enough to mix, and \ teaspoon salt; roll out and bake in a well heated 
oven. Butter and eat hot. 

Johnny Cake, No. 3. — Use 1 egg, \ cup sugar, a little salt, 1 cup 
milk, 1 teaspoon cream tartar, \ teaspoon soda, 1 cup cornmeal, 1 cup 
white flour; bake in a shallow pan in a quick oven. 



278 JOHNNY CAKES, PONES, ETC. 

Fruit with Johnny Cake. — Dried fruit, such as raisins, currants, 
etc., added to johnny cake, is a pleasant addition for a change. 

CORN AND GRAHAM JOHNNY CAKE. 

3 good cuios cornmeal. 3 tablespoons melted butter. 

2 good cups graham flour. 2 heapiiig teaspoons soda. 
1 good cup white flour. 1 good teaspoon salt. 

3 eggs. 1 quart sour milk (part of which 
^ cup molasses. may be sour cream if it is to 

be had). 

SPIDER CAKE. 

This, as the name imi)lies, is baked in a spider, or short handled 
frying=pan. Beat 2 eggs very light, add 1 cup sour milk, and 1 cup 
sweet; stir into this 2 cups cornmeal, and a handful of flour, 1 table- 
spoon sugar, and 1 teaspoon each of salt and soda; mix, and beat 
thoroughly, and then x^our it into the spider, which should be already 
hot and well greased. After the butter is in the spider, pour over it 
1 cup sweet milk, but do not stir it into the batter. Bake in a hot 
oven I hour. Take it from the pan onto a plate, being careful not 
to break it. 

RICE SPIDER CAKE — Use 1 cup boiled or steamed rice, 1 cup 
yellow cornmeal (the granulated is best), 2 cups sweet milk, 1 table- 
spoon sugar, 1 tablespoon baking jDowder, and 1 level teaspoon salt; 
mix all thoroughly, and add at least a handful of flour. After beat- 
ing in the flour, i3ut the batter in a hot buttered spider, or short 
handled frying-pan, and bake in a hot oven | hour. The batter must 
be thin enough to " run " a little, but not as soft as for griddle cakes. 
If needed to make it thinner, when the flour is added, put in a little 
more milk; if too thin add a little more flour. 

FLORIDA CORN CAKE. 
1 egg 1 teaspoon sugar. 

1 cup milk or water. 2 cups white cornmeal. 

1 tablespoon salt jjork fat. 1 tablespoon baking powder. 

1 teaspoon salt. 

Mix all thoroughly, and bake in 2 thin cakes. 

CORN PONE. — Into 2 cups boiling meal mix 1 teaspoon salt 
and 1 teaspoon sugar; scald with 2 cups boiling water, and let stand 
till it swells and becomes lukewarm ; then add a ^ oz. cake of com- 
pressed yeast dissolved in a little cold water; if too stiff reduce it 
with warm water to a consistency sufficient to retain its form; then 
put it in the baking-pan, let rise 4 or 5 hours, and bake in a moderate 



JOHNNY CAKES, PONES, ETC. 279 

oven till tliorouglily clone. Pone should be eaten fresh and warm, 
but is very nice toasted, after it is a day old. 

FLORIDA PONE. — Mix 1 tablespoon of bakino- powder and 1 
teaspoon salt, into 2 cups of white cornmeal. Mix with sufficient 
water to make a thick batter, and beat in a tablespoon of hot salt 
pork fat. Make in a thin cake, and bake until well browned. Deli- 
cious with meat. 

HOE CAKE. — Into a mixing=bowl put 4 cu]os white cornmeal 
and one teaspoon salt; make it to a stiff batter with hot water, stir-, 
ring it all the time. Have a pan of cold water ready, moisten the 
hands, and then with the hands press a tablespooii of the batter into 
a round, thin cake. Bake on a griddle over the fire, or on an oak 
board before an open fire, thoroughly baking first one side and then 
the other. Pull'apart when done, butter, and serve hot. 

BAKED BUCKWHEAT CAKES.^Mix in the mixing=bowl | 
cup buckwheat flour, 1 cup white flour, and 1 heaping teaspoon bak- 
ing powder; add |- cup light brown sugar, 1 egg well ])eaten, and 3 
tablespoons melted ])utter or lard; mix all together well, and add 
enough sweet milk to make a batter that will pour and spread slowly; 
but not as thin as for griddle cakes; hfike in a deep tin in a rather 
hot oven, allowing plenty of room for it to rise. Eat hot with liutter. 
Try this once and you will bo surprised at its quality. By using corn- 
meal instead of the buckwheat a fine corn cake is made. 

CORN DODGERS. — Into a mixing=bowl put 1 pint white corn- 
meal; scald by adding just enough boiling water to moisten the meal, 
stirring it all the time; work in 1 tablespoon butter or lard, and 
when cool add 1 welbbeaten egg, 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons 
milk; mix well, put by spoonfuls into a large, well greased bakings 
pan, and l)ake brown on lioth sides. 

INDIAN BANNOCK.— Mix 1 cup boiling milk, ^ piii.t cornmeal, 
1 teaspoon each of salt and sugar; when partially cooled, add 2 eggs, 
beaten separately; bake in a very hot oven in a shallow earthern 
dish; serve like a pudding, in the dish it is baked in. 

GREEN CORN PATTIES. — For every cup of grated green corn 
allow 1 egg, |- cui) of milk and 1 cup of flour; 1 teaspoon of leaking 
powder should he well mixed with tlie flour. Stir all togetlun- until 
well mixed, then l)ake in buttered patty-pans. This recipe can be 
doubled, if the family to be served rerpiircs it. 



280 GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. 

GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. 

Time to Bake, ^ to ^ hour, 

WHEAT GEMS.— Beat 1 egg light, add 2 cups milk and 1 tea 
spoon salt, and gradually beat it into 2 cups wheat flour; put it into 
hot, well greased gem^pans, and bake about 20 minutes. 

Wheat Gems No. 2. — Use 2 cups sweet milk, 1 tablespoon butter 
2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt; flour to thicken. 

GRAHAM GEMS. — Use 2 cups sour milk, 3 cups graham flour 

1 teaspoon soda; beat together a few minutes, drop it into hot 
greased, gem-pans, and bake in a quick oven 10 or 15 minutes. 

MUFFINS {White Fhur). 

^ cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

2| cups flour. 1 cup milk. 

2 eggs. Butter the size of an egg. 

Bake in cups, or hot gem^pans. 

Muffins No. 2. — Into 8 cups flour sift 3 teaspoons baking powder, 
and a little salt; add 2 eggs and 2 cups milk; bake in a hot oven in 
rings or gem-tins. 

TEA MUFFINS — Work butter the size of an egg into 2 cups 
flour; add |- teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons of sugar, and 2 even tea- 
spoons baking powder, and stir together thoroughly; beat 1 egg, add 
to it 1 cup milk, mix it with the flour quickly, and bake in a hot 
oven. This will make 1 cake in a brick=shaped baking- pan; then cut 
in squares with a hot knife. 

BUCKWHEAT MUFFINS — To 1 pint of sour milk and cream 
mixed, add 1 even teasjjoon each of salt and soda, and make a stiff 
batter with buckwheat flour. Bake in a square tin, in a hot oven, 
about ^ hour; cut in squares, and serve hot, with fried salt pork, and 
milk gravy made in the fat. This can also be made with the pre- 
pared buckwheat flour, by making a stiff batter with sweet milk, salt 
and shortening; put in a hot gem-pan, and serve with butter, or milk 
gravy. A good breakfast dish. 

GRAHAM MUFFINS. 

3 cups graham flour. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup white flour. 1 teaspoon salt. 

2 tablespoons sugar. 

Mix all together. Then take a piece of butter the size of an egg 
and put it into 1 pint of sweet milk; set it on the stove until the but- 
ter is melted; when cool, mix all together with 2 eggs, and bake. 



GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. 281 

GRAHAM MUFFINS No. 2. 

2 cups graham flour. 1 tablespoon melted shortening. 

1 cup white flour. 1 tablespoon sugar. 

2-| cups sour milk. 1 tablespoon soda. Salt. 

CEREALINE MUFFINS.— Take If cups flour and sift in 1 tea- 
spoon salt, 1 tablespoon of sugar and 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
To 1 well beaten egg add | cup cold milk. Into 1 cup hot milk stir 
1 cup of cerealine and add 2 teaspoons of butter. Stir all together, 
beat well, put into well buttered pans, and bake in a quick oven. 
Time to bake, about 80 minutes. 

CORNMEAL MUFFINS.— Use 1 egg, 1 cup sweet milk, 2 cups 
granulated yellow cornmeal, 1 cup white flour, 1 level teaspoon salt, 
butter size of an egg, 2 teaspoons baking powder. Butter the gem^ 
pan and have it hot before putting in the batter; bake -J hour in a 
hot oven. 

Cornmeal Muffins No. 2. — Use 1 egg, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 cup corn- 
meal, 1 cup flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, ^ tablespoon butter, 
^ teaspoon salt, milk to make a stiff batter. 

RAISED MUFFINS — To 2 cups scalded milk, add butter or 
dripping the size of an egg, and 1 teaspoon salt;. when lukewarm add 
^ of a yeast cake dissolved in |- teacup warm water, or ^ teacup of 
liquid yeast; add 1 egg and about 4 cups flour, or enough to make a 
batter that will drop easily, remembering that it is thinner after 
rising. Beat all well together, let rise till light, and bake in buttered 
muflin rings on a griddle, or in a gem=pan. Do not stir it down before 
baking; mix at night for breafast, and in the morning for supper. 

RICE MUFFINS.— Use 1 cup cold boiled rice, 2 cups flour, 2 
eggs, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 quart milk, or enough to 
make a thin batter; bake quickly. 

RYE MUFFINS — Sift together 1 cup wheat flour, | cuj) sugar, 
1 teaspoon cream tartar, ^ teaspoon soda, | teaspoon salt, add 1 cuj) 
rye meal (not flour); beat 1 egg, add 1 cup milk, add it to the other 
ingredients, beat well, put in hot, greased muffin tins, and bake 20 
minutes in a quick oven. 

GLUTEN MUFFINS.— To 1 egg, beaten light without separa- 
ting, add 1 pint milk, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 pint gluten flour; beat 
well, add 2 teaspoons baking powder, pour into well greased, hot 
muflin rings, and bake in a quick oven ^ hour. 

ENTIRE WHEAT MUFFINS— Mix together 1^ cups wheat 



282 GEMS, MUFFINS, SCONES, ETC. 

flour, 2 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 teaspoons baking 
powder; sift them into a bovv'l. Then beat 1 egg till light, and add 
1 cup milk and Jj cup of water; pour this on to the first mixture, and 
beat rapidly and energetically." Have buttered -muffin^pans ready, 
pour in the batter, and bake in a rather quick oven about 25 min- 
nutes. The batter will be thin, and the muffins moist, but that is 
right. 

ENGLISH CRUMPETS.— In 3 cups lukewarm milk, put 1 salt- 
spoon salt, and ^ a yeast cake dissolved, or ^ cup liquid yeast; let 
rise till light, and add 2 tablespoons melted butter, and a trifle of 
flour to keep the batter from becoming too thin; stir in hard, 1 salt- 
spoon soda, let stand ^ hour, and bake in patty pans, or muffinrings. 

GRAHAM CRUMPETS.— Dissolve ^, cup butter in 1 quart 
scalded sweet milk, and when cool, add 1 cake compressed yeast 
(soaked in a litte water), 1 teaspoon salt, and 2 tablespoons sugar; 
add enough graham flour to make a rather stiff batter, and beat 
hard a few minutes; let rise over night in a warm place, and in the 
morning add 2 wellbeaten eggs; put in buttered gem tins, let rise 
till light, and bake in a moderate oven. 

SALLY LUNN. 

2| cups flour. i cup sugar, 

l^egg well beaten. 3 tablespoons butter (melted). 

1 cup sweet milk. 1| teaspoons cream tartar. 

I teaspoon soda. 

Bake 20 minutes in muffin= rings, or in square pie=pans. 

CORNMEAL SCONES.— Mix 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 tea- 
spo(jn salt and 1 tablespoon of sugar into 1 pint cornmeal; rub in 
with the hand 1 tablespoon butter; make it into a batter that will 
dro^J from a spoon (not pour) with cold milk; bake like ordinary 
muffins in muffin rings on a griddle. 

SCOTCH SCONES.— Into 2 cups flour sift 2 small teaspoons 
baking powder; rub in with the hand 4 tablespoons butter, adding a 
little milk to bind the paste; flour the bread^board and pin, roll out 
^ inch thick, cut into small 3 cornered pieces with a sharp knife; 
bake in a quick oven on a baking sheet, taking out as soon as they 
are lightly and evenly colored. 

OATMEAL CAKES.—Use 2 cups of- oatmeal, 2 tablespoons 
shortening (I'ither butter, beef fat, or salt pork fat). Eub the fat 
into tilt; meal; add cold water enough to "make a dough. Mold until 
smooth, roll out thin, cut into rounds or squares, and bake cpiickly in 
a hot oven. 



GRIDDLE CAKES 283 

Oatmeal Cakes No. 2. — Stir oatmeal with cold water, making a 
thick paste; salt to taste. Make into little round cakes, about ^ inch 
thick, in tin bake- pans, and bake in an oven not too hot. 

POP OVERS. — Use 1 cup of milk, 1 cup flour, 1 egg, 1 teaspoon 
butter, a pinch of salt; beat the white and yolk of the egg separately 
until verj^ light, then beat all well together, and bake in a quick oven. 

BREAKFAST PUFFS.— Use 1 cup milk, 1| cups flour, 2 eggs, 
|- teaspoon salt; beat 5 minutes, and bake in gem=i3ans. 

BREAD PUFFS.— Take light bread dough, roll out about ^ inch 
thick, cut with a biscuit cutter, drop into boiling lard, and turn over 
very quickly. 



GRIDDLE CAKES. 

To Keep Buckwheat Batter Sweet — Cover with cold water the batter 
left after you are done baking cakes; drain it otf carefully at night 
before stirring up fresh batter; the batter settles at the bottom, while 
the water absorbs the acid, thus keeping the batter sweet and fresh. 

A Substitute for Maple Syrup. — Take 2 cups light brown sugar and 
1 cup of water and boil until a nice thick syrup; then flavor with a 
teaspoon of vai^illa, when nearly cold. Nice with griddle cakes and 
hot biscuits. Use other flavoring if desired. 

Fruit Syrup. — Dissolve in water 1 level teaspoon of corn starch, 
put into 1 pint tart fruit juice, and add 1^ cups sugar. Excellent for 
hot griddle cakes and puddings. 

Caramel Syrup, a recipe for preparing which we give among our 
" Pudding Sauces," is fine with griddle cakes. 

It is said that a common iron giidtlle, ground down smooth on a grindstone 
and then polished with tine sand jjajier on a tiat piece of wood, is superior to a 
soajistone griddle, and can be used withcnit grease. 

If bucliwheat battel- has a small spoonful of molasses added to it each morn- 
ing, it will give the cakes a fine brown color. Grease the griddle evenly, and do 
not leave pools of fat to burn and taint the cakes. Turn tlio gridclle often, to 
keep it evenly heated on all sides^ have it hot enough, so the mixture hisses or 
sizzles as it touches it. Do not turn the griddle cakes more than once, as that will 
make them heavy. 

APPLE GRIDDLE CAKES.— Put 1 cup finely^chopped apple in 
1 quart of any griddle cake batter; distribute it evenly by stirring 
with the spoon every time a spoonful is taken out. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. Use 1 quart buckwheat flour, |- cup 
cornmeal, 1 taljlespoon salt, 4 taljlespoons yeast, 1 tablespoon mo- 
lasses (not syrup); mix with warm water enough to make a thin 



284 GRIDDLE CAKES 

batter, and let rise over night in a warm place. If the batter is the 
least bit sour in the morning, a little soda should be added, and if 
not sour, a very little soda will make them more light and tender. 

QUICK BUCKWHEAT CAKES.-To 2 cups of buckwheat flour, 
add 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1 tablespoon 
brown sugar (or New Orleans molasses instead); when ready to bake, 
add 2 cups cold water, or enough to make a batter, stirring as little 
as possible after it is stirred smooth. Wheat flour, cornmeal, or 
graham flour, may be added, if desired. 

CORNMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.— Use 1 pint cornmeal, | pint 
sour milk and 1 teaspoon soda in the milk, stirred until it foams, 2 
eggs beaten until light, salt to taste; have the griddle hot and well 
greased. About 1 tablespoon of wheat flour added to the cornmeal is 
an improvement. 

Cornmeal Griddle Cakes No. 2. — Use 1 cup sweet milk, or cold 
water, 1 egg, 2 cups yellow cornmeal, -J cup flour, 1 tablespoon salt, 
2 teaspoons baking x)owder. 

Strawberries and Griddle Cakes. — If you want a delightful dish, use 
hot cornmeal griddle cakes, strawberries, sugar and cream, and com- 
bine them sandwich fashion. 

STALE BREAD GRIDDLE CAKES.— Soak 2 cups stale bread 
crumbs for 1 Irour in 1 quart of milk which has been made boiling 
hot to pour over them; beat 2 eggs till light, yolks and whites sepa- 
rate; into the soaked bread=batter put first the beaten yolks, then 3 
ounces flour, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 1 scant teaspoon salt; beat 
thoroughly, and then stir in very lightly 2 teaspoons baking powder 
and the beaten whites. Grease the griddle, and bake quickly in 
small cakes. These are about the lightest and most digestible grid- 
dle cakes that are made. 

OATMEAL GRIDDLE CAKES.— Use 1 cup oatmeal, 1 cup 
flour, 1 teaspoon sugar, 1 teaspoon baking powder, ^ teaspoon salt; 
sift the baking powder in with the flour; add cold water to niake a 
batter the consistency of buckwheat cakes; beat together well, and 
bake immediately. 

GRAHAM GRIDDLE CAKES.— Use i graham and ^ wheat flour; 
mix with sour milk, or buttermilk, and soda (1 small teaspoon soda 
to 1 quart milk); add a pinch of salt and 1 egg. Bake immediately 
on a hot griddle. 

RICE GRIDDLE CAKES.— To 1 cup boiled rice add ^ cup 
milk, the yolks of 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons flour and a little salt; then 



WAFFLES 285 

beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, stir them with the other 
ingredients and fry as soon as xaossible after they are added, on a 
hot, buttered griddle. These are light, digestible, and esjoecially 
nice for invalids. 

RAISED GRIDDLE CAKES.— At night scald 1 cup white corn- 
meal with 2 cups boiling water; while warm stir in 2 cups flour, 2 
cups milk, 2 tablespoons brown sugar, and 2 tablespoons yeast; let 
it rise over night, and in the morning add 2 eggs, a little salt, and 
^ teaspoon baking powder; if too thin, add cornmeal till it is of the 
right consistency. 

SQUASH GRIDDLE CAKES.— Into 1 cup boiled and sifted 
squash (use dry, mealy squash) pour |- pint boiling milk; add 1 
tablesijoon sugar, 2 teaspoons butter, ^ teasi^oon salt; let it cool and 
add 1 well-beaten egg, and 1 cup flour into which 2 teaspoons of bak- 
ing powder have been sifted. If too thick, thin with milk; add 
more flour if too thin. 

Pease Griddle Cakes can be made the same way, by using instead 
of the squash, 1 cup pease which have been boiled, mashed, and 
passed through the squash strainer. 

FLANNEL CAKES — ^^Make a batter with | pint milk, and | 
j)int flour with 1 teaspoon of soda sifted into it; beat in 1 teaspoon 
melted butter, a little salt, and 1 egg; add more milk if the batter is 
too thick; bake on a griddle. 



WAFFLES. 

Grease the waffle iron thoroughly, as, if the waffles stick it is 
hard to clean. Use salt pork fat, or butter wrapped in a thin clean 
cloth. Heat the iron well, both sides, grease it and only fill about f 
full, leaving room for them to rise; cook one side a minute, then turn 
and cook the other. They will take longer to bake than griddle 
cakes. Butter as soon as done, and sprinkle on powdered sugar, or 
serve with lemon syrup, maple syrup or caramel sauce. 

WAFFLES NO. i. — Into 4 cups flour sift 2 teaspoons baking 
powder, and 1 teaspoon each of sugar and salt; add 2 eggs, 1 table- 
spoon butter, and 1 cup either sweet or sour milk; if the later, use 
1 teaspoon soda. 

No 2. — Use 2 cups buttermilk, flour enough to make a rather 
thin batter, 1 teaspoon each of salt and soda, 1 egg; stir the milk, 
flour and salt together, sift the soda in the batter, beat yolk and 



286 MUSH, ETC. 

white separately, and add the white last. Have the waffle irons very 
hot, and well greased, before putting in the batter. Salt or water 
will cause the waffles to stick to the irons; the batter is also apt to 
stick if sour. If the milk is very sour a little more soda than the 
above can ])e used. Some i^eople use sweet milk, and prefer it. 

RAISED WAFFLES.-To 2 cups of flour add 2 cups of milk 
and 5 tablesi^oons yeast; let rise over night, and in the morning 
add 2 teasjioons melted butter, ^ teaspoon salt, and 2 eggs, whites 
and yolks beaten separately. 

CORN=STARCH WAFFLES — Make a batter with 2 cups 
(heaped) corn=starch, 1 scant cup sugar, 2 eggs, a little lemon fla- 
vor, adding milk as needed; warm the molds, butter them out and 
fill; close them, place on the fire, then turn them over; repeat this 
until they are evenly baked: dust sugar over them when done. 

CORNMEAL WAFFLES.— Take the beaten yolks of 3 eggs, 2 
pints sour milk or buttermilk, and enough cornmeal to make a bat- 
ter a trifle thicker than for griddle cakes; dissolve 1 teaspoon soda 
in warm water, stir it into the milk, and add a little salt. Use ^ 
wheat flour if they break in pieces while cooking. 

RICE WAFFLES. — Use 2 eggs, |- cup boiled rice, 1| cuj^s flour, 

1 teasx)oon baking powder, butter the size of a walnut, a little salt, 
1^ cups milk; mix well and bake innnediately. 

RICE AND CORNMEAL WAFFLES.— Use 2 welhbeaten eggs, 
|- pint cold boiled rice, | pint cornmeal, ^ pint wheat flour, -| tea- 
spoon baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 2 tablespoons melted butter, 

2 cups milk; beat together thoroughly before baking. 



MUSHES, ETC. 

As the grain of which mush is made is coarsely ground, in order 
to cook the starch properly and soften the cellulose, long boiling is 
required, Thorough cooking is the most important point connected 
with its preparation. 

CORNMEAL MUSH — Have the water ooiling, and nothing 
short of boiling with sufficient salt in the water for seasoning Stir 
the meal gradually, sifting it slowly through the fingers of the left 
hand while stirring with the right. Use a kettle with a rounding 
bottom. Do not make it too thick if it is to be eaten with milk, or 
with sugar and milk for dessert. If it is to fry, 1 or 2 handfuls of 



MUSHES 287 

flour added at the last will improve it. Mush should cook vcrij thor- 
otighJij; after it is thickened enough, set it on top of the stove where 
it will cook slowly 1 or 2 hours; stir often. 

No 2. — Mix 1 cup cornmeal and 1 teaspoon salt to a paste with 
a little cold water; then pour on 2 i^ints boiling water, put it in a 
double boiler, and boil 4 or 5 hours. If the water cooks away add 
more boiling water from the teakettle. There is no danger of its 
burning in the double boiler. Anything will cook faster in the 
double boiler, if the water in the lower boiler is strongly salted. 

FRIED MUSH. — Put the mush in brick=shaped baking tins used 
for bread, and when cold and solid cut in slices. The old way has 
been to fry the slices on a spider or on a griddle with salt pork fat. 
A better way is to cut the slices a little less than ^ inch thick; dip 
them in beaten egg, roll in cracker or bread crumbs, and fry like 
doughnuts in hot fat. Oatmeal or other mushes may be fried in the 
same way. 

GREEN CORN MUSH — Take corn on the cob when the milk is 
just set, grate it and make mush in the ordinary way; eat in milk. 
Excellent. 

OATMEAL MUSH.— Put i pint oatmeal and 1 teaspoon salt into 
the double boiler; add 4 cups boiling water, set the upper part of the 
boiler on the stove and boil 4 or 5 minutes to start the cooking; 
then put it into the lower boiler and cook 3 to 5 hours; salting the 
water in the lower boiler makes it cook faster. It is often cooked 
so that the grains are whole, but it is not then so easily digested, 
nor so pleasant in flavor. It should.be thin enough to jDOur when 
done, and should cool into a jelly-like consistency. Serve with 
sugar and cream, tart jelly, apple sauce or baked apijles. 

Oatmeal with Figs.— Add to oatmeal 5 or 6 figs cut fine; cook in 
the usual way and serve with cream and sugar. 

GRAHAM MUSH — Use a little cold water and mix to a thin 
paste 2 piiit graham flour and, 1 teaspoon salt; stir in 4 cu^js boiling 
water, and cook like oatmeal mush, but it does not need to cook so 
long. Time to cook, about 20 minutes. Just before taking grahain 
mush from the fire, stir in stoned dates, and you will find it makes 
a very nice pudding. 

BUCKWHEAT MUSH.— Mush made of buckwheat flour is made 
in the same w^ay as cornmeal mush, but requires less cooking. 
When cold it can be fried, if desired, like cornmeal mush. 



288 MUSHES 

GLUTEN MUSH. — Use 2 cups boiling water to 1 cup gluten; 
cook like graham musb. It does not thicken because it contains no 
starch. 

RYE MUSH. — Cook as directed for graham mush. It is served 
with molasses often. 

HOMINY MUSH.— Cook in a double boiler 3 or 4 hours as di- 
rected for oatmeal mush, using a little over 4 times its bulk of 
water, and salt to taste. (For the long cooking absolutely necessary 
with corn jjreparations, the double boiler is much the best thing to 
use.) It can be eaten in bowls with milk, or for dessert with hard 
sauce. When cold, it can be fried as directed for cornmeal mush. 

CRACKED WHEAT — Pick over ^ pint cracked wheat, put it in 
a double boiler, add 1 teaspoon salt, and 3 cups boiling water, and 
cook it 2 or 3 hours. It cooks best in a double boiler. Serve with . 
sugar and cream. It can, if desired, be poured into cups or jelly= 
molds, wet with cold water, and so molded. 

FARINA. — Into 2 cujos boiling water, put | saltspoon salt, and 
3 tablespoons farina; let it actually boil in a sauce=pan 20 minutes, or 
cook i hour in a double boiler. Serve with sugar and milk or cream. 

WHEATLET WITH DATES.— Into 4 cups boiling water put 1 
teaspoon salt and stir in 1 cup wheatlet; cook it in the double boiler 
30 minutes. Have 1 cup dates stoned and cut small, and stir them 
in just before serving. Serve with cream. 

QRANULA — To 1 cup granula add 1 teaspoon salt, and 1^ cups 
boiling water, and boil 10 to 15 minutes; this is better than to boil it 
1 minute in milk as is often recommended. It is a preparation of 
grain prepared by dry heat, and is cooked nearly enough when 
bought. 

WHEAT GERM. — Use 1^ cups boiling water, | teaspoon salt, 
and ^ cup wheat germ, and boil 30 minutes in an uncovered sauce= 
pan, or 1 hour in a double boiler; it is doubtful if it is wholesome 
cooked in the short time directed on the packages. 

Imperial Granum can be i)repared the same way. 

HULLED CORN — Soak a quart of yellow corn over night; the 
next morning pour off the water and jDut the corn in a kettle of hot 
water containing a cheese-cloth bag, holding a pint, or a little more, 
of clean wood ashes. Boil until the hulls begin to come off, then 
pour off the lye; rub the corn well in cool water to remove the 
hulls, then boil again in clear water until soft, changing the water 



TOAST 289 

once or twice to take out the taste of the lye as much as possible. 
Hulled corn is eaten with milk like mush, and like mush it is 
fried when cold. 

HASTY PUDDING — Into 2 cups cold milk, stir 2 cups corn- 
meal, 2 teaspoons flour, 1 teaspoon salt; gradually stir this into 4 cups 
boiling water, and boil 30 minutes, stirring it frequently. It can 
be fried when cold as directed for cornmeal mush. 



TOAST. 

Simple as the process of making it seems, perfect toast is very 
rare. Good toast should be crisp and golden clear through, not 
brown outside and clammy in the center. Use stale bread, cut 
even slices ^ inch thick, heat them gradually at first, so that the 
heat may penetrate to the center of the slice and evaporate the 
water before the outside is crusted over; dry it carefully and, ivhen 
well di'ied, move it near the coals (which should be clear and red), 
and it will quickly turn a golden brown. 

Toast is often eaten which is cut in thick slices, browned outside, and left clam- 
my in the center. • Such toast is less wholesome than untoasted bread, and is 
wholly unfit for invalids, although healthy stomachs may cope with it. Well inacie 
toast is very easy of digestion, and well suited for invalids, because starch, when 
heated to 401°, is turned to dextrin, and that is much more easily digested than the 
starch. The object should be to turn as much of the starch as possible to dextrin, 
and clear through the bread, not merely a little on the outside. A little caramel is 
also developed usually in toasting bread. 

Some people prefer toast soft inside and browned outside, because they say it 
is easier to eat, but if you will try it you will find good, dry toast easily breaks and 
crumbles apart, and is readily moistened by the saliva. For invalids always instead 
of leaving toast soft inside, it is better to toast the bread well, and then dip it in 
hot water for an instant to moisten it, but do not soak it. 

- If possible, serve dry toast directly from the fire; if not, pile it on a plate, lay a 
napkin over it, and set it in the oven, or on the hearth to keep warm. Be careful 
not to burn the outside while toasting bread. For ordinary use (not for invalids) 
the thicker slices of bread, less perfectly toasted, can, of course, be eaten by those 
who prefer them. 

WATER TOAST — Prepare a pan of boiling hot water, adding al- 
ways 1 teaspoon salt to the quart of water. Toast bread, dip in each 
slice quickly, moistening it merely, but do not let it soal', as sloppy, 
sodden toast is not good. Butter each slice and pile them on a' hot 
plate. Apple sauce, baked apples, poached eggs, and minced meats 
go with this kind of toast. 

M5LK TOAST. — For plain milk toast, toast the bread, and x)our 
3 or 4 tablespoons of boiling salted milk or cream on each slice. 
The toast can be buttered or not, as preferred, before pouring on the 
19 



290 SANDWICHES 

hot milk. Crackers can be split, toasted, and prepared in the same 
way. Or, scald the milk, add for each pint 1 tablespoon corn^starch 
or flour dissolved in a little cold water, 1 teaspoon butter, and ^ tea- 
si^oon salt; prepare the toast, moisten it, dip each slice in the hot, 
thickened milk, put all in a dish, and pour the balance of the thick- 
ened milk over it. Serve hot. 

CREAM TOAST — Put 2 cups milk into a sauce=pan and bring it 
to a boil; while it is heating, put 1 tablespoon each of butter and 
flour in another sauce=pan, stir them together gently while the but- 
ter is melting, and then let them bubble 2 or 3 minutes together; 
then add the hot milk, a little at a time, stirring it in well till it is 
smooth and free from lumps; let it simmer while preparing the toast. 
Toast the bread, soak it fhoi-oughlij in salted boiling milk (as the 
cream will be too thick to soften it), put it in a dish, and pour the 
prepared cream over and between the slices. 

MERINGUED TOAST. — Prepare a meringue by dissolving 1 tea- 
sjjoon butter in ^ cup boiling milk, and just before taking it from 
the fire, stir in the welhbeaten white of 1 egg; pour this over fresh- 
ly-toasted bread, which has been dijjped in slightly salted water; put 
it in the oven 5 minutes, and delicately brown the meringue. 

VERMICELLI TOAST — Pass the yolk of hard-boiled eggs 
through a coarse strainer; it will fall out in broken threads, looking 
something like vermicelli; scatter it over cream toast. 

TOASTED GRAHAM GEMS — Split the gems, toast nicely, 
and while they are toasting, heat some rich milk to the boiling point, 
add a little salt, butter, and thicken with flour moistened with cold 
milk, and pour over the toasted gems. Gems left one day may be 
thus utilized for the next day's breakfast. 

STRAWBERRY TOAST.— Toast thick slices of bread, butter 
them, and pile them with alternate layers of strawberries, crushed 
and sweetened as for shortcake, with strawberries on toj); serve M'ith 
cream, at once and while hot. 



SANDWICHES. 

Bread for sandwiches should be one day old, and a brick^sliaped 
loaf is the best. Cut the crust from the end, then spread the end of 
the loaf evenly with softened butter, or comx)ounds of butter, sea- 
soned meat, etc., if desired, then with a sharp knife cut the buttered 
slice from the loaf, In this way the bread is not broken, as it is apt 



SANDWICHES 291 

to be if very tender, when spread after slicing. Spread and cut in 
this way until the loaf is used. Place two of the spread slices to- 
gether, press firmly, and trim in any way liked. They may be cut 
in rounds or heart- shajjed with biscuit cutters; the crust may be 
trimmed off and the sandwiches cut from corner to corner, making 
triangles, or for ordinary occasions they may be left untrimmed, 
as many persons prefer them with the crusts. 

For hearty, hungry children, nothing is better for luncheons, 
picnic refreshments, etc., than sandwiches. Spread evenly the end 
of a loaf of good homemade bread, a day old, then cut it off \ inch 
thick, spread another slice with butter, place boiled ham, cold 
tongue, roast beef or chicken, on one slice, cover it with another, and 
press tightly together; roll each one in buttered paper, or all together 
in a clean napkin. To keep them moist until eaten, put them after 
wrapping, into a tin i^ail, and cover tightly. 

If the meat used for filling sandwiches is chopped fine it will be 
much more convenient to eat. In putting up sandwiches for picnics, 
etc., it will add to their appearance to tie them with ribbon in pack- 
ages; a different colored ribbon can be used effectively for each kind 
of sandwich 

Although it* is a little more trouble to make them, sandwiches 
can be improved both in appearance and flavor by cutting thin slices 
of bread into small square, oval, or round pieces, and frying them in 
smoking hot fat to a light golden brown; then drain on blotting 
paper. These pieces can be made into anchovy, lobster, egg, salmon, 
chicken or other sandwiches, piled high on plates with bright green 
parsley around the base. Such sandwiches are admirably adapted 
for evening parties, and will he more appreciated than second and 
third rate sweets. 

Mustard or Anchovy Butter for sandwiches may be prepared as fol- 
lows: For mustard butter, take soft butter the size of an egg, and 
2 tablespoons of good mustard, put them in a stone mortar and work 
them together with the pestle till perfectly mixed. For avciiovij but- 
tcr, take the same amount of -butter and 1 teasjDoon of anchovy paste, 
and work them together in the same way. Same proportions for 
larger quantities. 

ABERDEEN SANDWICHES.— Put in the ehopping^bowl cold 
meat, either of veal, ham, beef or poultry, and chop it very fine; for 
1 teacuj) of chopped meat, add to it a piece of softened butter the 
size of an egg, a little pepper and salt, with 1 or 2 spoons of water to 
slightly moisten it, and 1 teacup of fine bread crumbs; chop and mix 
all to a paste, Take a bit of the mixture on the molding=boardj and 



292 SANDWICHES 

with a knife wet in hot water, form it into a strip about 3 inches 
long and 2 wide. Trim off the edges, detach it from the board with 
a knife, and roll into an oblong shape. If it is too dry to roll 
without cracking, add a little more water; if too wet, add more bread 
crumbs. These are served with lettuce, or cresses. 

ANCHOVY AND EGG SANDWICHES.— Bone anchovies, steep 
them in milk for 2 hours and chop fine; also mince hard-boiled eggs 
very fine; sprinkle the chopped egg on a slice of buttered bread, 
cover with the anchovy, add pepper and a layer of mustard and cress, 
and lay on the other slice of buttered bread. 

BAKED SANDWICHES.— Sprinkle salt and pepper on thin 
slices of cold meat, put them between thin slices of bread, form 
them into a pile 5 or 6 inches high, fasten them together with a 
skewer, and brown them until the bread is crisp, in a hot oven, first 
basting them with melted butter. 

CHEESE SANDWICHES.— Mik together ^ lb. of grated cheese, 
and I teaspoon each of pepper, salt and mustard, add 1 tablespoon 
each of vinegar and melted butter, make it to a paste, and spread it 
thin on the buttered bread. 

DATE SANDWICHES. — Seed choice dates, press flat, and 
spread between thin slices of buttered bread. 

EGG SANDWICHES.— (1) Put between buttered slices of bread 
moderately thin slices of hard-boiled eggs, seasoning them with salt, 
pepper and nutmeg. (2) Chop the whites of hard=boiled eggs very 
fine; mash the yolks, and mix with melted butter, salt and pepper. 
If not smooth enough, add thick cream. Spread the paste on the 
bread. 

FISH SANDWICHES.— Use any kind of cooked fish, chop it 
fine, make it into a soft paste with butter, and season it well. 

GINGER SANDWICHES. Use the preserved ginger which 
comes in small jars; cut very thin, and put between slices of buttered 
bread. Cover with a damp napkin until ready to serve. 

HAM SANDWICHES.— Boil the ham the day before, slice it as 
thin as possible, and lay it between the thin, buttered slices of bread. 
Spread on a little mustard, or not, as preferred. Clwpped ham 
sandwiches can be made by chopping the ham as fine as grated 
cheese, and making it to a paste with malted butter, or butter and 
cream, or beaten egg, as preferred, with mixed mustard, pepper, and 
a little finely choj^ped pickle. Then spread the paste on the bread. 



SANDWICHES 293 

HONOVER SANDWICHES.— To the welbbeaten yolks of 2 
eggs, add ^ lb. best butter, o tablespoons mixed mustard, a little 
pepper and salt; beat all together very smoothly, and set on ice. 
Spread it on thin slices of bread, and put between the slices very 
finely choj^ped tongue and ham, to which a little chicken or roast 
beef is added. This makes a delicious sandwich. Thin slices of 
pressed beef may also be used. 

LABETTE SANDWICHES — Spread Devonshire cream on thin 
buttered slices of hvoini bread; then spread on apricot jam, being 
careful that there are no lumps in it, then lay on another slice of 

buttered bread, and press together. 

» 

LETTUCE SANDWICHES.— Put crisp lettuce leaves between 
thin slices of buttered bread; serve as soon as possible after prepar- 
ing. Add a mayonnaise dressing if preferred. 

Various sftiuhriclies can be thus made by using instead of the 
lettuce, the plumed tops of young white celerij; or nasturiiinu 
leaves; or young dandelion leaves; ov pepper grass; or water-cress; 
and so on. 

LOBSTER SANDWICHES — Pound together in a mortar until 
quite smooth -I lb. lobster meat, the yolks of 2 hard-boiled eggs, 2 oz. 
butter, 5 capers, pepper, salt, and cayenne to taste. Spread thinly 
on slices of bread and butter, sprinkle with a very little chopped 
mustard and cress, if liked, cover with another slice of bread and 
butter, cut neatly, and serve. 

NUT SANDWICHES. — Grate English walnuts or pecans, mix 
with salt and a little cream or milk, and spread it on thin slices of 
buttered broM'n bread. 

Almonds or peanuts may be used in the same way. 

PEANUT SANDWICHES — Remove the shells and brown skins, 
roll the peanuts moderately fine, but not to powder, pour on any 
good salad dressing, and spread between slices of bread. Make 
almond or ivcdnut sandwiches the same way. 

SALMON SANDWICHES.— Drain all the oil from canned 
salmon, remove all skin and bone, reduce it to a paste; season, spread 
some on one slice of buttered bread, squeeze lemon juice over it, and 
lay on the other buttered slice of bread. 

SARDINE SANDWICHES.— (1) Drain the sardines from the 
oil, put them in hot water a few minutes which will take out the 
grease, drain them, dry in a cloth, and pound to a paste; season with 



294 SANDWICHES 

salt and pepper, add a little very finely chopped lettuce, and spread 
it on the bread. (2) Chop the fish fine, add a few drops of lemon 
juice, and cover the buttered bread with it. 

TOMATO SANDWICHES.— (1) Spread a French dressing over 
the buttered slices of bread, and put slices of tomatoes between them. 
(2) Put potted beef on the lower buttered slice, lay on thin slices 
of tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and lay on the top slice, 

VARIOUS SANDWICHES.— A little ingenuity will invent an 
almost endless variety of new and attractive sandwiches. We sug- 
gest a few more. (1) Prawns or shrimps may be used instead of 
lobsters. (2) Fresh caviare spread on bread and butter, with a 
squeeze of lemon, a pinch of cayenne, and if liked, a little minced 
salad, is excellent. (3) Slices of cucumber, dressed with oil and 
vinegar, make a delicious sandwich. (4) Use yolks of eggs 
pounded with butter and Parmesan cheese, (5) Make pate de foie 
gras sandwiches, with or without water=^cress (6) Make salmon or 
shrimp sandwiches with mayonnaise sauce and minced salad. (7) 
Put kippered salmon in thin shreds between slices of brown bread 
and butter. (8) Vary any sandwich by using mayonnaise, bechamel 
or other sauce. 



PASTRY. 



fOTWITHSTANDING the frequent denunciations of pastry 
for its unhealthfulness, people will eat pie, and a thorough 
knowledge of pastry^making is indispensable to the econom- 
ical housewife. To succeed in this, certain rules must be 
remembered and implicitly carried out. The excellence of puff paste 
depends upon the quality of the materials used, the lightness of 
hand and dexterity of the operator, and the coldness of the materials. 
The hands should be washed very clean, and then dipped into very 
hot and then into cold water. The mixingbowl should also be filled 
with hot, and then with cold water, which makes it smooth and pre- 
vents the butter from sticking. The slab or board for working ux^on 
should be smooth, clean and dry. A marble slab is better than a 
board because it keex)S the jiastry cooler, but few can command this, 
and a board is more frequently used. 

The Flour. — The flour used should be of a fine quality, and should 
be thoroughly sifted, dried and chilled. For making paste a starchy 
flour is better than one rich in gluten, and that is what is meant by 
pastry flour. Although eggs are commonly used in paste, they are 
really not necessary, and a good paste can be made without them. 
The butter should be of good quality and x^lifible, or it will not mix 

properly with the pastry. ^ 

Work it in clear, cold ^sd J" '*"'' ' ' ^^i'-^— v-^i^^-jij^r 

water, to free it from salt 
and buttermilk, and the 
pastry will then be more 
delicate; then keeiJ it cold 

until used. ^■1 ^.-^'^'^''fe^ 

Method of Making Paste. 
— The method of making 
paste is as follows: For '^^^ ^^ 

the best paste use 1 lb. of ^pfi!3" 
butter to 1 lb. of flour (if ^ -^ 
measured use 2 pints flour 

'- FIG. 1. PASTE FOLDED OYEB THE BUTTER. 

to 1 i^int butter). Take 1 

113. of the washed butter, flatten it out, j)ress it on all sides to remove 
the moisture, keejD out about 2 or 3 oz. and put the balance in a 
floured cloth on ice till needed. Now put the 1 lb. of sifted and 

295 




296 



PASTRY 



cliilled flour into the mixing==bowl, keeping out about 2 oz. for 
sprinkling the board with, put in the 3 oz. of butter and 1 small tea- 
spoon of salt, and the eggs if they are used, and with the tips of the 
fingers work them into the flour. Many chop these ingredients to- 
gether to avoid heating them with the fingers. Add a little ice cold 
water occasionally, and keep mixing until a perfectly smooth paste is 
formed. A cup of water, more or less, will be needed. When the 
paste is of the right consistency, and forms a smooth ball, dust the 
board lightly with flour, and remove the paste on to it, and pound it 
lightly with the rolling pin to toughen it. Then roll it out about \ 
inch thick, always using a well-floured rolling=pin, and rolling from 
you. Then take the cold butter and roll it out in the same way, only 
smaller, and lay it upon the paste, and fold the ends of the paste over 
the butter as shown in Fig. 1. on p. 295. (The butter is sometimes 
cut into 4 pieces and only 1 piece worked in at a time, but the meth- 
od would be the same. ) Then turn it bottom up on the board, and 
roll it out carefully, using a light, quick stroke, and being careful 
not to break the paste, as the aim should be to keep all the air pos- 
sible inside, to assist in making it 
rise. If by accident the dough 
breaks, lay on a piece of plain 
dough (a little plain dough may 
be kept out for this purpose), dust 
on flour, and go on with the roll- 
ing. Roll it out into a sheet about 
4 inch thick, and fold \ of it over 
onto the balance, and then the 






Fig. 



BOIiliED PASTE FOLDED OVKii 



TE AFTER MAKING A "TITKN.'" 



other side over onto that, making 3 layers about 3 times as long as 
it is wide, as shown in Fig. 2; then turn it, and fold it lengthwise 
into 3 thicknesses as shown in Fig. 3, when it will be ready for roll- 
ins out again. This is known as the "first tui'n." 



PASTRY 297 

In lifting the paste at any time let it roll up on the roller, then 
lift it gently, dust a little flour on the board, and gently unroll the 
paste the way you want it to lie, having the side which was next the 
roller come next the board. The process just described as the "first 
turn" should be repeated 3 or 4 times for common pies, and 6 or 7 
times for the best pastry, but should be repeated until no streaks of 
butter can be seen. The more layers there are the more "flaky" it 
will be. To keep the butter evenly distributed so that the paste will 
rise evenly, it is folded in an opposite direction each time, and after 
each "turn" it is laid with the top of the paste on the board, thus 
turning it over. It is customary in warm weather (it is a good plan 
at any time) to put it on ice for 5 or 10 minutes between each. "turn." 
This may be done by putting it in a long, floured pan, putting it on 
ice, and then set another pan filled with ice on top of it, thus aving 
ice both above and below. The top tin should not be heavy with ice, 
as only a little ice is needed. Tins are best, because dishes would not 
conduct heat readily enough to cool the paste quickly. After making 
the last "turn," roll the paste out about ^ inch thick, and cut it in 
shape for pies, patties, etc. Some cooks think that the shortest route 
from the flour barrel to the bake oven is the best for pastry, and 
others prefer to set the paste aside in a cold place and bake next day. 
Skillful cooks obtain good results either way. From first to last 
the paste should be kept as cold as possible. 

If not ready to bake at once when made up, keep the paste in 
the ice= chest until wanted. We knew of one lady who had a long, 
slim glass bottle which she filled with ice^water and used for a roll- 
ing pin. Pastry should be rolled lightly, the rolling-pin often lifted 
and but little pressed upon, so as not to force out the air. 

The j)oint to aim at in making puff paste is to have as many al- 
ternate layers of butter and dough as possible, and to have each layer 
so light and thin that in baking it will rise separately. The paste 
will be difficult to manage, and a failure, probably, if it is either too 
dry and stiff or soft and sticky. If the flour used is the least damp, 
the loaste made from it may be heavy. The less flour used in rolling 
the paste the better, as if an excess of flour is used the flakes will be 
pale, thick and tough, if not absolutely flat and heavy, and the bak- 
ing will be much slower. Using coarse and heavy flour may jproduce 
a similar result, and so may slow and heavy handling, a warm or ir- 
regular temperature when working, or faulty baking. 

The Butter. — If the butter is not right, rapid handling, partial 
freezing, an extra sprinkle of flour and a little cream of tartar may 
keep the flakes separated until the oven is reached and the baking 



298 PASTRY 

begins; it will bake sharp and crisp with a quick heat, but the 
butter will fry out and cover the flakes of paste and they will be 
found greasy to the touch when removed from the oven. Do not 
suppose that if the butter and paste are not in the best condition 
possible the amount of the butter can be reduced in the finishing 
j^rocess of rolling together; there will be fewer layers of paste, the 
quality inferior and the quantity less. 

For some dishes a rich crust is neither so digestible nor so 
suitable as a substantial light one, and a light, quick, cool hand will 
influence the lightness of the pastry as well as the quantity of the 
butter used 

Baking Tins. — For baking, tin plates should always be used, as 
the under crust will be apt to not bake well in anything earthen; the 
crust will readily separate from the pan when done. It should then 
be taken off the plate at once, or the under crust may get " soggy." 
Grease pie tins well before laying on the crust; for some kinds of 
pastry they are wet with water instead of being greased. 

The Oven. — The heat of the oven is important. If too hot, the 
toj^ will become scorched before the pastry is risen; if too cold, it 
will melt, spread, and the paste become heavy and sodden. It is 
best, therefore, to keep the pastry out until the oven is right. Exper- 
ience will guide in this, but a good plan is to try the lieat of the 
oven first wnth a small piece of paste; the heat should be strong 
enough to cause the cold air in the paste to expand, and so make it 
rise, and then quickly set it in the form given by this expansion of 
the air. The heat should be strong underneath at first, to make the 
paste rise well before browning on top; then turn the heat from 
below, or to prevent burning, put a grate or pan under the baking- 
tin, and quicken the heat on top. 

The Two Crusts. — In making pies with an upper crust ahvaijs 
make small holes in it to allow for the escape of steam, or that will 
burst the crust. These holes may be made in any fanciful shape de- 
sired An excellent plan is to use a rich paste for the top crust, and 
a plainer one, with much less shortening, for the under one. Have 
the under crust a little the thicker. If there is no upper crust, have a 
heavy edge on the pie. Mixing the white flour with ^ to ^ its 
bulk of cornmeal is said to make pie crust lighter and more digest- 
ible. 

A fine brown color will be given to the upper crust of pies if, 
just l)efore putting them in the oven, they are brushed over with 
milk. 



PASTRY 299 

To Prevent Juice from Running out. — To prevent the juices of fruit 
pies from running over, which is so annoying to cooks, various plans 
have been employed. (1) Make a small tube of writing paper 
about -| inch in diameter, and let it set through the upper and rest 
on the lower crust; or a short jnece of macaroni set on end makes 
a good tube. The juice will bubble up in this instead of running 
out. (2) In all fruit fillings stir the flour /)//(> the fruit, so that 'all 
the fruit may be covered, instead of sprinkling it on top. Also 
avoid having too much fruit in the pie, and add no water, as the 
fruits make their own juices. (3) Have a pie tin deep enough to 
allow a wall of crust deej) enough to hold in the juice. (4) Fasten 
the upper crust securely by turning the edge of it under the under 
crust, first wetting the latter with a little beaten white of egg 
or water. Sometimes the white of egg is used and the two firmly 
pressed together without turning the uj)per under the lower crust. 

All the small juicy fruits, like strawberries, raspberries, blueber- 
ries and blackberries, can bo made to retain their juices in the 
crust by mixing with the sugar used for sweetening them a heap- 
ing tablespoon of either flour, corn^starch, arrowroot or cracker dust. 
These act simply by absorbing the surplus juice, and so keep it from 
running out. The mixture should be well shaken down through 
the berries before the top crust is put on; as the sugar draws out 
the juice, it is better not to sprinkle it on the fruit until that is x^ut 
in the crust. The under crust in these pies will be raw and clammy, 
unless there is a good heat at the bottom of the oven. If the under 
crust in fruit and custard pies is rubbed over, just before filling the 
pies, with a mixture of egg, well beaten, it will prevent the juice from 
soaking into it. The white alone will do if the pie is very delicate in 
color. A tablespoon of powdered sugar added to the flour makes the 
paste into a nice, short crust, for fruit pies. If in fruit pies the sugar 
is not added until after they are baked, and then the crust is lifted 
up and it is put in, less sugar will be needed. (See what we say 
about " Using Sugar," in our chapter on " Cooked Fruit.") 

The Puinciples Involved. — The principles involved in this mode of baking 
flour are as follows: In making paste or pie crust, the paste of flt)ur and water is 
rolled out into very thin paper=like layers, with fat between. In folding and rolling 
it out, much cold air is imprisoned and distributed through the mass. When baked, 
this air is heated and so expands, and, being contined, it "lifts" the dough, or 
makes it rise and become light. This action is purely medianical, without pro- 
ducing any chemical change like that worked by yeast. It is obvious that the 
colder this imjirisoned air is when the mass is ready to bake, the more it will 
be contracted, and, therefore, when heated, the more it will expand and lift the 
dough; hence the repeated injunctions to keep the mass as cold as possible. 

Eggs, when used, act in two ways — they increase the tenacity of the dough so 
that it better retains the air, and when beaten up they carry a good deal of air into 
the dough. As soon as the cold air expands, the mass should stiffen, before it has 
time to fall, hence the importance of having the heat of the oven right. 



300 PASTRY 

It will be seen that the lightness of the pastry will depend on the amount and 
coldness of the air it contains before it is put in the oven, and the extent of the 
expansion of the air afterwards; therefore, other things being equal, the best 
pastry will be that which contains the greatest quantity of the coldest air before it 
is baked. Cooks with a hot hand will do well to mix the paste with a knife (a 
steel cho{)ping=knife v/ith a wooden handle is about the best thing) as the warmth 
of the hand will heat the paste in working it. 

The " Hakiness " of the paste will depend on the number of layers of butter 
and paste it contains, but its rising depends on its air. We knew an exp'iriment 
in making some pastry in which the lady pressed it hard with her thumb in 
certain spots. When baked, it was light everywhere except where her thumb had 
pressed, and there it was soggy and heavy. The pressure of her thumb had forced 
out the air, so that in those places there was nothing to expand and "lift" the 
paste. This will show the importance of the lightness and deftness of touch in 
making paste, which we have elsewhere insisted on. 

Pastry, though generally liked, is not easily digested, and is not suited to deli- 
cate stomachs, although the strong may eat it. Flaky paste, although easily 
broken in pieces, is not easily pulverized or ground into a puljiy mass by the 
teeth, so that comparatively large=sized flakes are commonly swallowed, besides 
which the starchy matter, being enveloped in fat, is not readily reached by the 
saliva, and thus the first step in the conversion of flour into sugar is prevented, 
while for the same reason it is not readily attacked by the gastric juices in the 
stomach. From these causes proceed the evil results so often experienced from 
eating pastry. When eaten, it should be very thoroughly and patiently masticated. 

Using Cornineal. — Cornmeal mixed with flour, using ^^ cornmeal to % flour or 
a little more, makes puddings or pastry more digestible, because it makes them 
less cohesive — that is, when it is used the products fall more readily into minute 
particles so that the saliva can act on the starch, and the gastric juice on the 
albumenoids, much more readily. Cornmeal, lacking gluten, breaks up the sticki- 
ness of gluten flour as we elsewhere explain. 

Meringue (pronounced me -rang' ) for pies, puddings or cake, is a 
frosting spread on top of them. It is made by beating the white of 
1 egg and 1 tablespoon of powdered white sugar to a froth, and 
flavoring it if desired. After spreading it on, it must always be put 
in the oven to brown and harden; let a pudding cool slightly before 
spreading it on, or else it will liquify. 

Doree, or gilding, applied to x^atties, etc., is an egg beaten up and 
brushed over the top. It gives them a beautiful golden shade. 

PASTE, OR PIE CRUST. 

For the best puff paste the uniform rule is equal quantities, by 
iveight, of butter and flour. A good paste is made with | lb. butter 
to 1 lb. flour. For home use, as low as ^ lb. butter to 1 lb. flour is 
sometimes used. 

For the best paste, good butter is the thing to use; the next best 
thing, butter and lard mixed. For meat pies clarified drippings 
makes a good crust. A light biscuit crust answers well for dump- 
lings, and may also be used for meat pies. A paste made with lard 
alone, will be tender, but not flaky. 

If any baking powder is used with paste at any time add that to 
the flour first of all. When baking powder is used in pastry, speedy 



PASTRY 301 

work is needed or the effervescence will be over before the work is 
completed, the gas will escape, and the paste will fall. For delicate 
puff paste or pie crust do not use baking powder. 

No. I. PUFF PASTE — Use 2 cups flour, 1 solid cup butter, 
and 1 level teaspoon salt. Mix about ^ of the butter in the flour, 
then roll out and work in the balance as directed for making pastes, 
giving it 4 to 6 " turns." This makes a rich paste suitable for the 
upper crust of pies, using a plainer one for the under crust. 

No. 2. LIGHT PASTE. — Use 2 cups flour, 1 solid cup butter, 
1 level teaspoon salt, 1 egg (2 are sometimes used). Mix, roll out, 
and finish as directed above for making paste, giving it' at least 4 
" turns " — 6 is better. It makes a good paste for fruit tarts. 

No. 3. PUFF PASTE — Use 1 teacup each of butter and lard, 4 
cups sifted flour, 2 teaspoons baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 white 
of egg, beaten. Sift the baking powder and salt into the flour; then 
rub in the lard till it forms a fine, smooth paste. Add enough ice 
water, containing the beaten white of egg, to make a stiff dough — 
say I cup; roll out thin, spread on 5 of the butter, and make 1 
"turn" as previously explained for pastry; repeat with another ^ of 
the butter, and so on till all is used. Then set on ice till cold — say 

1 or 2 hours — before using it. An excellent i^aste. 

No. 4. FRENCH PASTE. — Use 4 cups flour, 1 cup powdered 
sugar, 1 level teaspoon salt, 3 whole eggs. Mix thoroughly with the 
fingers to a smooth paste; if too dry to mold, add the yolk of another 
egg; after it is molded, roll out and cut. This jDaste is more diges- 
tible than shortened pie crust. 

No. 5. PIE CRUST.— Use 1 cup flour, 1 tablespoon lard, | 
teaspoon baking powder, ^ teaspoon salt. Sift the baking powder 
and salt together, chop the lard into the flour, and add just enough 
cold water to moisten the flour. This quantity will make 1 pie with 

2 crusts. 

No. 6. PIE CRUST — Mix equal amounts of white and graham 
flours; stir in cold sweet cream with a sj)oon, lightly and rapidly, in 
the proportion of 1 cup of cream to 3 cups flour; with the fingers 
gather the dough together, without kneading it, and set it in a very 
cool place ^ hour before rolling out. It can be made still lighter by 
adding 2 teaspoons baking powder for each 3 cups flour, but in that 
case roll out and bake at once. 



302 PIES 

PIES. 

Time to Bake. — Pies should bake, as a rule, in | to | hour. They 
should slip on the tin when done. Crust alone should brown in 
about I hour. 

APPLE PIE. — Line a large pie=plate with a good crust, fill it 
well with sliced apples; take a small cup of sugar and mix well with 
it 1 tablespoon of tlour, a little nutmeg, half a teaspoon of cinnamon, 
and sprinkle over the pie; put on the top crust; wet the edges of 
the under crust, pinch the top one upon it closely, cut an opening 
in the middle of the top crust, and bake in a good oven about an 
hour; serve the day of baking. 

POT APPLE PIE. — Put a quart of water in a kettle with 2 cups 
of sugar, a saltspoon of salt and 6 tart apples, pared, quartered and 
cored; let them cook in the syrup until they look like preserves, then 
make a baking powder crust, without shortening, cut it in rounds 
with a biscuit cutter, put it in the kettle, add a piece of butter the 
size of an egg, and more water if the syrup is much reduced; cover, 
and cook 20 minutes. Turn into a deep dish to serve. 

DRIED APPLE PIE.— The dried apples should be soaked over 
night, then slowly stewed, in just water enough to cover them, for 2 or 
8 hours, especially those dried in the old= fashioned way, and which are 
preferred by many cooks to those that are bleached. When soft, stir 
to a mash with a spoon, or work the apple through a coarse colander; 
season to taste with sugar and spices, and bake in two crusts. A few 
dried raspberries, or a little raspberry jam is a great improvement in 
dried aj)ple pies. 

A good way to treat dried apples is to soak them over night, then cover with 
boiling water, and stew soft. A little sour cider or lemon juice may be added if 
they are not tart enough, and a tine flavor will be imparted by adding a little 
orange peel when they are about half stewed; then add sugar and nutmeg to 
season, and strain through a colander. 

APPLE CUSTARD PIE.— Take 2 cups sweet milk, 2 cups apple 
sauce, 3 eggs; flavor and sweeten, and bake with an under crust only. 
This will make 2 small or 1 large pie. 

Apple Custard No. 2.— Take ^ cup melted butter, 2 cups sugar, 8 
cups stewed apples, 4 eggs beaten separately. Bake in pie=plates 
in bottom crusts only. 

APPLE PIE A LA MODE.— Take a good apple pie, warm it, 
and spread ice cream over the top 1 inch thick, and serve at once, 



PIES 303 

BANANA PIE. — Slice the bananas thinly, put over them the 
grated peel and juice of a lemon, and let them lie in the acid for an 
hour before using; then sweeten to taste, and bake in two crusts. 

CARROT PIE. — To 1 lb. of carrots, boiled and mashed through 
a colander, add 2 eggs, and rich milk or cream to make quite thin; 
flavor to taste with sugar, cinnamon and nutmeg; put it into 2 pie= 
plates lined with rich paste, and bake in a quick oven. 

CHERRY PIE. — Pit the cherries and be careful to reject all that 
are wormy; place them on a nice under crust, sweeten to taste and 
mix a teaspoon of corn= starch with the sugar, or a tablespoon if the 
cherries are large and juicy. Bake in two crusts, or as a tart with 
strips of paste twisted and placed over it in diamond shape. Eat 
cold, with sugar sifted over the top. 

DRIED CHERRY PIE.^Use a pie-plate that will hold 1 pint, 
line with rich paste; take 1 teacup of sugar and put ^ of it on the 
under crust, roll 2 soda crackers fine, put ^ on the sugar, and 1 tea- 
cup of cherries strewn evenly on the cracker; now add a piece of 
butter half the size of an egg, and cover with the remainder of the 
sugar and cracker; when the toja crust is ready to put on, add 1 tea- 
cup of cold water, and bake ^ hour in a moderate oven. 

GROUND CHERRY PIE.— Line a pie plate with a nice pie crust, 
and then put in a layer of ground cherries and 1 cup of sugar. Cover 
with a nice crust and bake. 

The ground cherry {Physatis viscosa) belongs to the order Solanacce — the order 
which gives us the tomato and potato. 

CHOCOLATE PIE.— Take 2 cups milk, yolks of 2 eggs, | of a 
cup o'f sugar, 2 tablespoons of corn^^starch, and 2 tablespoons of 
grated chocolate. Heat the milk, sugar and chocolate together; 
when hot, add the corn^starch, mixed in a little of the cold milk, then 
add the beaten yolks; let all come to a boil; line a pie4in with good 
pie crust, bake, and then i)our in the chocolate cream; beat the 
whites of the eggs to a stiif fr(jth with 2 tablespoons of whrte sugar; 
iwur it over the jsie, and set it in the oven to brown. 

GREEN COCOANUT PIE. -Open the eyes of a cocoanut with-a 
gimlet, and pour out the milk into a cup; then break the shell, take 
out the meat, and grate it fine; take the same weights of sugar and 
the grated nut, and stir together; beat 4 eggs, the whites and yolks 
separately, to a stiff foam; mix 1 cup of cream, and the milk of the 
cocoanut with the sugar and nut; then add the eggs. Line deep pie= 
tins with a nice crust, fill them with the custard, and bake carefully 
^ hour, 



304 



PIES 




COCOANUT PALM. 



DRIED COCOANUT PIE Put a cup of cocoanut to soak in 

sweet milk as early in the morning as ix)ssible; take a teacuf) of the 
cocoanut and put it into a coffeecup, and fill up with milk. When 
ready to bake take 2 teaspoons of flour, mix with milk, and stir until 
it thickens; add butter the size of a walnut, while warm; when cold, 
add a little salt, 2 eggs (saving out the white 
of one for the top), sweeten to taste, add the 
cocoanut, beating well, fill the crust and bake 
When done, have the extra white beaten 
with sugar and ready to spread over the toj); 
return to the oven and brown lightly. 

Cocoanut is the fruit of a species of palm. It 
now grows in nearly all tropical regions. The num- 
ber of different ways in which it is made useful to the 
inhabitants in the region in which it grows is surpris- 
ing. Each tree yields 80 to 100 nuts annually. The 
oil expressed from the kernel is good, and mi<^ht be 
used as food, but it quickly becomes rancid. The nut 
should be eaten moderately only, as it is rather diffi- 
cult of digestion alone, but in connection with other 
food, aids their digestion. It is more of a heat=giver 
than of a flesh=former. 

CORN=STARCH PIE.— Scald 1 pint of milk and stir in it 3 
tablespoons of sugar and the beaten yolks of 2 eggs; wet 2 table- 
spoons of corn=starch with a little cold milk, and stir it in the milk, 
sugar, and eggs. Line a pie=plate with jmste, bake, and fill it with 
the cream. Beat 2 tablespoons of sugar with the whites of the eggs, 
spread over the top of the i^ie, and set in the oven to brown. This 
may be served with or without cream, and will be found very nice. 

CREAM PIE. — Take 2 cups thick cream, and 1 cup milk. Put 
the cream and milk in a tin pail, and set in a kettle of boiling water. 
If there is danger that the cream may curdle, i3ut into it as much 
soda as will lie on the point of a iDen-knife. When the cream is hot, 
beat the whites of 2 eggs, a tablespoon of corn=starch, and 2 heaping 
tablespoons of sugar all together, and add to the cream. When it 
thickens, let cool a little, and add a teaspoon of extract of vanilla. 
Pour into a deep crust already baked. . Cover with a meringue and 
brown in the oven. 

Cream Pie No. 2. — Bake a crust in a large pie-pan, lift it out on a 
plate; for filling, take 1 pint of very rich milk; boil f of it; with the 
remaining ^ stir 2 tablespoons of corn=starch; add to the boiling 
milk, stirring all the time; then add | teacup of sugar, then the yolks 
of 2 eggs, well beaten and thinned with a little milk; remove from 
the fire, flavor with vanilla, and pour into the crust; whip the whites, 



PIES 



305 




add ^ teacup sugar, frost the pie, and place in the oven to brown 
slightly. Serve cold. 

Cream Pie No. 3. — Use 1 egg, 1 cup sugar with butter size of an 
egg well rubbed into it, ^ cup milk, in which dissolve -J teaspoon 
soda, 1^ cups fiour, and sift well through it 1 teaspoon cream tartar 
and a little salt; bake in 3 tins. 

Cream Filling. — Take 1 egg, ^ cup sugar, ^ cup flour; wet the flour 
with a little milk, then stir it into 1 cup boiling milk, then add the 
egg and sugar, and a little salt; stir till thick and smooth. Tliis is 
cheap, but delicious. 

DATE PIE. — Prepare the dates as 
directed in the introduction to " Cake " 
(which see). Spread the lower crust on 
the pan, put in the prepared dates, add a 
little cold water, sprinkle with flour, dot 
with butter, put on the upper crust and 
bake. 

The Date is the fruit of a palm tree. It 
bears bunches, weighing perhaps 25 lbs. with 200 
dates. It grows extensively in Persia and 
throughout Asia and Africa. More than half its „^_ 

weight is sug^r. It is a gentle laxative, and is in ^t-,-«- ^ - 

many cases to be preferred to figs. Dates can be date palm. 

used in pies, puddings, bread and sauce, and they 

are worthy of a more extensive use, although many people do not understand how 
to handle them. Dates may be used to advantage in place of citron in many kinds 
of cookery. 

GREEN CURRANT PIE.— Currants fully grown, and just before 
turning red, make very nice pies; mix a little flour or corn=starch 
with the sugar used for seasoning, and bake with an upper crust. 
Green gooseberry pies are made in the same manner, first picking off 
the stems and blossom ends. 

CUSTARD PIE. — Take 2 teacups milk, 2 eggs, 3 tablespoons 
light brown sugar, 1 heaping teaspoon flour, a pinch of salt. Heat 
the milk, but do not let it boil. Beat eggs, sugar, flour, and salt 
together, and add the milk. Line a deep plate with plain crust, jDour 
in the mixture, and bake in a moderate oven until there is no milk in 
the center. Do not let it boil, as that causes it to whey. When 
done, grate nutmeg on top. 

Custard Pie No. 2. — The proper proportions for a rich custard pie 
are 4 well beaten eggs, 4 tablespoons of white sugar, and 1 quart of 
milk, or milk and cream mixed. This makes the filling for a deep 
pie i^late with a built=up edge of crust. 
20 



306 PIES 

Frosted Custard Pie. — Use 1 pint of milk, the yolks of 8 eggs and 
M'hite of 1, 2 tablespoons of sugar, a x)iiieli of salt. When baked, put 
on the frosting made of the 2 remaining whites of the eggs, beaten 
stiff, and 2 sjioonfuls powdered sugar, a small pinch of salt, and any 
flavoring you choose; set it back in the oven and brown. 

ELDERBERRY PIE — Take -| elderberries and ^ rhubarb, wilh 
sugar sufficient to sweeten, and bake with 2 crusts. This makes an 
excellent pie which cannot be distinguished from one made of rasp- 
berries, and is much cheaper. This proj^ortion of elderberries and 
rhubarl) makes a nice jam. 

FRIED PIES. — Roll out a good biscuit dough, about 7 or 8 
inches in diameter, but a spoonful of any good sauce near the center, 
fold the dough over it, press the edges together, and fry like dough- 
nuts in smoking hot fat. 

FRUIT PIES, OR TARTS.— Fruit pies of all kinds may be made 
with an under crust only. Have the fruit stewed, sweetened and 
cold. Fill the crust with the fruit, place a few bits of butter over 
the fruit, and bake. When the pie is cool, beat the white of 1 egg 
and 1 tablespoon of fine sugar to a froth, spread over the pie, and 
brown in the oven. If a thicker meringue is liked, make with whites 
of 2 eggs, and 2 tablespoons of sugar. If the fruit is very juicy a lit- 
tle pulverized cracker can be sprinkled over the pie before baking. 
Pies made in this way with one crust are often called " tarts." 
Fruit pies can also be made by putting the fruit in a pudding 
dish, sweeten and dust over the fruit a little corn-starch, Hour, or 
cracker^dust; put bits of butter over the fruit, and any sj)ices liked; 
cover with a crust a Itttle thicker than when there is an under crust. 
Bake slowly. In this way there is no danger of losing the juice of 
the pie. 

GOOSEBERRY PIE. — Take riije gooseberries, • or green ones 
when fully grown, pick the stems and blow ends from them and place 
on the under crust. Mix a tablespoon of corn starch in a small cup 
of sugar for the sweetening. Bake with 2 crusts. 

GRAPE PIE. — Take 1 coffee-cup of grapes, 1 teacup of sugar, 1 
egg, a pinch of salt, a dessertspoon of flour, and a teaspoon of butter. 
This makes 1 pie. Bake in 2 crusts. 

HICKORY=NUT PIE.— Use 1| pints milk, 4 teaspoons sugar, 2 
eggs, and 1 cup chopped hickory^nut meats; bake with an under 
crust only. 



PIES 307 

HUCKLEBERRY PIE Fill a pie tin, lined with paste, with the 

berries, and add sugar to sweeten— about | cup. A pleasant tartness, 
which will improve the flavor, may be imparted by adding a little 
vinegar or lemon juice, or by mixing in some currants. Cover with 
a top crust and bake. 

JELLY PIE. — Take 1 cup jelly, 2 cups sugar, 4 eggs, | cup but- 
ter. Cream the butter and sugar, beat the yolks until light and stir 
them in, then add the beaten whites and last the jelly. A small 
piece of this served on the same plate with apple or peach pie is 
nice. 

LEMON PIE. — Line a pie plate with a good crust and bake. 
For the filling take 1 cup sugar, grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 
yolks of 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons corn starch (a little heaping); stir 
sugar and yolks together, add the lemon juice, then add the corn 
starch and stir well together; add 1^ cups boiling water, put on stove 
and cook carefully until thick, and then pour into the baked crust. 
For the meringue beat the 3 whites of eggs stiff, add 2 tablespoons 
sugar, put over top and brown delicately in oven. 

LEMON PIE WITH UPPER CRUST.— Grate the yellow part of 
2 lemons into a dish, peel off the white and throw away; then cut up 
the lemons with the grated yellow, add 5 eggs, if they are plenty, if 
not, 4 will do; add 2 cups of sugar, a little salt, and 2 tablespoons of 
water. Line your pie4ins with a flaky crust, and divide the filling 
for 2 i^ies; put on an upper crust, and bake in a quick oven, and you 
will find it a delicious dessert. 

MINCE PIES. — These generally come on Thanksgiving day for 
the season; they are better when a few days old. It is better to make 
the mince meat a w^eek before Thanksgiving, and the jjies in time to 
stand at least 3 days. Boil 6 lbs. lean beef till tender, let it stand 
over night and then chop fine; chop 1 lb. beef suet, also 5 lbs. apples, 
and 2 lbs. seeded raisins; slice thin ^ lb. citron, and mix these ingre- 
dients, with 2 tablespoons cinnamon, and 1 tablespoon grated nut- 
meg. 

Hints — We may offer a few hints about mince pies. Dried apples, soaked in 
water a few hours, or over night, or Irish potatoes soaked in the same way in 
vinegar, make a very fair substitute for fresh apples in mince pies. Fresh apples 
can be washed, wiped dry, and chopped fine without peeling, and some labor saved 
thereby. Dried cherries and other fruit, prepared with sugar, can be soaked 10 or 
12 hours in a very little water, and then both water and fruit used instead of rai- 
sins. They will be much cheaper and will answer very well. Economical house- 
wives will often find hints like these very serviceable. 



808 PIES 

Canned Mince Meat. — If mince meat is canned hot, in the same 
manner as fruit, put in glass jars; sealed tight, and kept in a cool, 
dark place, it will keep for months. A quart jar full will hold 
enough for 2 pies, and in this way mince pies can be had the year 
round, as well as in winter. 

MINCE MEAT. j 

i 

3 bowls of meat, chopped. 1 bowl molasses. 

2 bowls cider. 2 bowls raisins. 

4 bowls sugar (use 5 if liked 1 tablespoon cloves, 
very sweet). 1 tablespoon pepper. 

3 lemons, use juice and yellow 1 bowl vinegar, 
rind. 1 bowl citron. 

5 bowls of apple. 1 tablespoon salt. 

1 bowl suet. 3 nutmegs. 

2 tablespoons cinnamon. 

A bowl holding about 1^ pints is used for measuring. 

MOCK MINCE PIE. 

1 cup rolled crackers. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 

I cup boiled cider. 1 cup molasses. 

1 teaspoon of cloves. 1 cup chopped raisins. 

1 cup sugar. i cup vinegar. 

1 cup hot water. 1 teaspoon nutmeg. 

MOCK MINCE PIE No. 2. 

1 cup dried English currants. 1 cup sugar. 

1 teaspoon cinnamon. 1 teaspoon allspice. 

1 cup sour cream. 1 egg. 

1 teaspoon cloves. 

This will make 2 pies. Bake in 2 crusts. 

SUMMEE MINCE PIES. 

1 cup bread crumbs. 1 cup molasses. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup raisins. 

1 teaspoon cloves and cinnamon. ^ cup butter. 
1 cup water. 

ORANGE PIE.— Take 1 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 table- 
spoon corn-starch, 1 teacup boiling water, yolks of 3 eggs, juice and 
grated rind of 1 orange. Mix all together. Bake in an open shell. 
When set, cover with a meringue made with the whites of the eggs, 
and brown in the oven 

Orange Pie No. 2. — Use the grated rind and juice of 2 oranges. 
Cream 1 tablespoon butter with 4 tablespoons sugar; into this beat 
the yolks of 3 eggs, then the whites of 2, beaten stiff, and mix all 
with the orange juice and the rind. Bake with an under crust only; 
make a meringue with the reserved white, spread over the pie, and 
lightly brown in the oven, 




1>IES 309 

PEACH PIE — Peel and halve peaches, and 
fill a pie^plate lined with good paste with them; 
sprinkle -| cup sugar over the fruit, sift on 1 
tablespoon flour (less, if the fruit is not juicy), 
and a few bits of butter; bake until the peaches 
are done. 

The Peach tree belongs to the Rose order, is a na- 

tive of Persia and greatly resembles the almond-tree. peaoh. 

All the varieties are divided into 2 classes — '"freestones" 

and "clingstones," the former being the best. Too much down on a peach is a 

sign of inferior quality. Although a delicious fruit it contains little nutritive mat 

ter. It contains little sugar, but the malic acid it contains is masked by its pec- 

tose. The skin is indigestible. Its acid is principally tartaric. The kernels of 

peach stones yield an oil identical with that of bitter almonds. 

PEACH COBLER. — Take a good sized dish like a pudding-dish; 
line the sides with good j)aste, and fill the dish with good peaches, 
halved and pared; sweeten according to taste and the flavor of the 
peaches. Place a small cuj) in the center to keep the crust from 
sinking down; roll out a crust considerably thicker than for pies, just 
large enough to cover the top of the dish, cut a slit each way in the 
center and jolace over the peaches; bake a crisp brown, and eat with 
cream and sugar, or sw^eet sauce. Canned peaches may be used if 
more convenient. 

Apple Cobler may be made in the same w^ay. 

PEAR PIE — The pears should be ripe and mellow enough to 
eat; core and slice them and prepare a crust as for apple pies; put a 
small amount of sugar on them, and a few bits of butter, but no 
spices. Bake until the top crust is of a nice light brown color, and 
the under crust will slip on the plate. This, from the taste, might 
be called honey j)i(\ 

PINEAPPLE PIE.— Grate or chop the "Pine" (see Pineapples 
in chapter on fruits), line a deep pie^dish with nice short paste, stir 
a tablespoon of arrowroot or corn-starch into ^ cup of sugar and cover 
the pineapple in the pie dish; wet the edge of the under crust with 
cold water or the white of an egg, cover with the top crust, cutting a 
place in the center, and bake. Press the edge of the pie all around, 
and bake until of a delicate brown on top and the crust will slip on 
the pie=plate. 

POTATO PIE. — Use |- cup melted butter, 2 cups sugar, 3 eggs, 
well beaten, 1 quart potatoes boiled and sifted, 1| cups milk, salt and 
nutmeg, and flavor with orange or lemon juice. Bake with an under 
crust only, to a light brown. Eat when a little warm. 



310 HES 

SWEET=POTATO PIE.— Boil the potatoes until soft, mash them 
through a colander and for every -J pint add 2 tablespoons of sugar 
and 2" eggs, with milk to make a quart. This fills a deep pie plate, 
with crust build above the edge of the plate as for custard pie, and 
it is done when the center is not milky. 

PRUNE PIE.— Stew prunes as for sauce, stone them, have ready 
a deep pie dish lined with putf paste, fill this dish with the stoned 
prunes, sprinkle over them | cup sugar and a little cinnamon. Bake 
it with an upper crust, or cover it with deep frosting made of the 
whites of 2 eggs, powdered sugar to taste, and any flavor desired. 

PUMPKIN PIE.— Pare and stew the pumpkin till it is soft and 
dry. It must be cooked slowly to the last, to prevent scorching. 
Press through a colander, and to 1 cup of the sifted pumpkin, add 
1 egg, 3 tablespoons molasses, 1 cup of sugar, a pinch of salt, 1 tea- 
spoon ginger (or cinnamon), and 1 pint of milk. This will fill 1 pie 
on a large plate. Bake like a custard, in rather a slow oven, till a 
golden brown. 

Pumpkin Pie No. 2.— For 3 pies take 1 pint of cooked, strained 
pumpkin, 1 quart of nice rich milk, 5 eggs, 3 cups of sugar, -| cup of 
butter and 2 tablespoons of cinnamon. (Ginger may be used instead 
of cinnamon if preferred.) 

In pumpkin or squash pie 1 tablespoon of 
flour may be substituted as the equivalent of 1 

egg. 

RAISIN PIE.— Take the seeds from 1 cup of 
raisins, add 1 cup of water and boil until the 
raisins are soft. When cold, add the juice and 
grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 cup of rolled crackers, 
and sweeten to taste. Bake in 1 crust, and when 
cool cover with a meringue, and slighty brown in 
the oven. 

Raisins are dried grapes. There are 2 ways of prepar- 
ing them. One way is to partially cut throiigh the stalk, and kaisin grape. 
then let the fruit shrink and dry on the vine, by the heat of 
the sun. The other method is to dip them while yet on 

the vines into a hot solution of alkali, derived from wood ashes, to which olive 
oil and salt are added. The oil causes them to shrink and wrinkle, and the alkali 
removes the waxy coat which impedes their drying. They are then dried in the 
sun in hunches, on lines or prepared floors. Muscatels are prepared by the first 
method, and are sometimes called "raisins of the sun." Raisins contain more 
sugar and less acid than grapes, and are therefore more nutritious, but eaten to 
excess they are apt to derange the digestive organs. 

RHUBARB PIE.— The giant variety with red st^alks is the best 
to use. Cut the stalks in half inch pieces; after it is cut pour boil- 




PIES 311 

ing water over it and let it stand 20 minutes; pour that off and re- 
peat the process witli boiling water; this extracts much of its oxalic 
acid and partly cooks it without breaking it in pieces. Mix the 
sugar with a little corn starch. Bake in 2 crusts. The flavor is im- 
proved by adding a little orange. A little nutmeg added to rhu- 
barb pie will improve the flavor and make it taste much like apple. 
Note. — If a little baking soda is mixed with the fruit (say ^ a 
saltspoon to each pie) the alkali will neutralize the oxalic acid of the 
rhubarb and much less sugar will be required for sweetening — a fact 
worth kiiowing. 

RICE PIE. — To 1 cup steamed rice add 3 cups cream; sweeten 
to taste, and flavor with cinnamon; beat the whites of 2 eggs to a 
froth, then beat all together and put in a deep pie plate, with under 
crust only. Bake about ^ hour. 

SQUASH PIE. — To 1 pint of scpiash, boiled and passed through 
a sieve or colander, add 3 eggs, 1 heaping teaspoon corn starch, 1 
teaspoon vanilla, and milk to make it soft; sweeten to taste. This 
makes a large, thick pie. 

STRAWBERRY PIE.— Make a rich butter crust to line the pie^ 
plate; fill in, the berries, and for each pie use for sweetening about ^ 
cup of sugar and a tablespoon of corn=starch mixed with the sugar; 
bake with an upper crust. 

TOMATO PIE. — Into a tin lined with pufl' paste, slice ripe toma- 
toes; sweeten with sugar; sprinkle on 2 teaspoons flour, and add a 
little lemon juice for flavor; put on a top crust and bake. 

TRANSPARENT PIE.— Take yolks of 3 eggs, 3 tablespoons of 
sugar, 1^ tablespoons of butter; beat well together, flavor to suit 
taste, and bake in 1 crust only of rich puff paste. Cover with a 
meringue, if desired. 

VINEGAR PIE. — Take 1 cup sugar, | cup vinegar, 1 tablespoon 
butter, 3 tablespoons of flour, 2 cups of water, 1 teaspoon of cinna- 
mon. Boil till thick, pour into the crust and bake. 

WASHINGTON PIE.— For the crust, use 2 cups sugar, -| cup 
butter, 3 cups sifted fiour, 4 eggs, ^ teaspoon cream tartar; for the 
filling, 1 tal^lespoon corn starch, boiled in -| pint milk; beat the yolk 
of 1 egg very light, and stir into the milk; flavor with vanilla, and, 
when cold, add the other half of the milk and the white of the egg, 
beaten to a stiff froth and stirred in rpiickly; spread tliis between the 
cakes, and ice it with the white of 1 egg and 8 tablespoons of finely 
sifted sugar, flavored with lemon. 



312 TARTS 

TARTS. 

TARTLETS. — Cut rounds of ricli pie crust, put a strip of the 
same around the edges and bake; when wanted, a little jam, jelly or 
preserves can be placed in each one before serving. 

CRANBERRY TART — Stew a pint of cranberries with a very 
little water, and sweeten while hot. When cold, if not sweet enough, 
add more sugar. Bake with an under crust, and when the tart is 
cool cover with a meringue, and brown in the oven. 

GOOSEBERRY TART — Stew the gooseberries until they are 
soft, in a very little water, but be careful and not break them ; drain 
the water from them, put them on a bottom crust, sprinkle a layer 
of sugar over them, then lay twisted strips of puff paste acioss in 
diamond shape, or bake the crust separately in heart=shapes, (see 
" Flauns ") and lay it on the tart after baking in one crust. 

LEMON TARTS. — Mix together thoroughy 1 pint sugar, 3 eggs, 
well beaten, 1 tablespoon butter, and 2 whole lemons grated; set it on 
the stove, stir until it boils uj), and put aside to cool. Fill into tart- 
lets at any time, as it will keep for weeks. 

PINEAPPLE TARTS — Cut as many heart=shaped pieces of puff 
paste as the pie is to be divided into; bake them in a tin in the oven 
until they are light and brown; line a pie^plate with nice pie^crust, 
or puff paste, and bake that. Take a grated pineapple, stew until 
tender in a very little water, then add | cup of sugar mixed with 
corn-starch, and stir until it is thick; then pour it into the baked 
bottom crust to cool. When cool and solid, brush over the top 
with the white of an egg, lay a heart of puff paste on each division 
of the tart, and it will adhere to it when dry. Arrowroot or crack- 
er=dust can be used instead of the corn-starch, in fruit pies or tarts 
if preferred. 

STRAWBERRY TART — Sprinkle sugar over the berries and 
let them lie over night; before using, drain off the juice, and bake the 
fruit in one crust, with strips of paste twisted and crossed over the 
tart in diamond shape; or puff paste may be baked in heart shape 
and laid on the tart after it is baked. 

The juice drawn from the berries' can be boiled with added 
sugar, and the syrup bottled and sealed while. hot, to be used in pud- 
ding sauces, or diluted with water for a summer beverage. 

Canned straicherries and other small fruits can be made into 
tarts in the same way by draining off the juice. 



SHORTCAKES 313 

FLAUNS (^Parisian Tarts). — Stew fresh fruit of any kind as 
for a compote — that is, it should be somewhat sweeter than for fruit 
sauce, but not like preserves. Make a plain crust and line pie plates, 
cover them thickly with the stewed fruit, and bake without an upper 
crust. Have some nice putf paste, cut it with a heart^shajjed cookey 
cutter, and bake the hearts separately in a hot oven on bakingtins; 
when the flauns are cold, and the paste cooled after baking, brush 
over the tops of the tarts with the beaten white of an egg; then place 
a heart of paste over each part of the tart to be cut for each person; 
the points or the hearts are to be turned toward the center of the 
tarts. 



SHORTCAKES. 

Make a soft dough as for baking powder biscuit (see " Baking 
Powder Biscuit " ) ; take it on the molding board and divide the 
dough into 2 parts, making it up lightly in round masses; do not 
mold or knead it, but flatten each piece of dough down into buttered 
jelly-cake tins, or any round jaans; bake quickly and turn each one 
on a dinner plate; slice off the top of each one, butter each piece, 
spread with the prepared fruit, place one-half- on the other, and have 
fruit on top. This makes 2 cakes, which, cut in quarters, will serve 8 
persons. For 1 cake use ^ cujd milk for mixing, and other ingredi- 
ents in proportion. 

The fruit used should be prepared with sufficient sugar and 
ready at hand, so that there will be no delay when the cakes are 
taken from the oven. 

A little fine white cornmeal added to the flour in making short- 
cake is thought an improvement and much relished by some people. 

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE— Prepare the cake as above, 
split it, butter, and spread on the berries, If small they can be 
sweetened and spread on whole; if large they can be mashed or 
chopped and sweetened, and 'then spread on. Chopping is better 
than mashing the berries. Serve with cream. 

APPLE SHORTCAKE.— As soon as the cake is baked, split it 
open, spread one piece with butter, spread it with well-sweetened 
apple sauce, pour on some thick sweet cream, grate on nutmeg, then 
lay on the other piece and cover it the same way. 

BANANA SHORTCAKE.— Slice the bananas and mix with 
oranges in the projaortion of 3 bananas to 1 orange; grate the outside 



314 SHORTCAKES 

of the orange peei and mix it with 1 cup of sugar; spread the whole 
over the buttered cakes. It is an improvement to add 4 tablespoons 
of sweet cream, beaten stiff. 

BERRY SHORTCAKES — Any oi the small berries, like rasp- 
berries, blackberries, or blueberries, make nice shortcakes. Sweeten 
the berries and make like strawberry shortcake. Black and red 
raspberries mixed, or raspberries with a few ripe currants mixed in 
make delicious shortcakes. 

CRANBERRY SHORTCAKES — Stew the cranberries, make 
them quite sweet, and spread on the prepared cake. 

FRUIT SHORTCAKES.— Any kind of stewed or canned fruit 
can be used for shortcake. Apples, rhubarb, or pears stewed and 
sweetened to taste are nice; prepare the fruit, have it ready, and 
spread it on the shortcake as soon as that is baked. 

JAM SHORTCAKE.— Bake the shortcake, split it, and spread on 
rasj)berry or other jam, as for layer cakes, only thicker. Serve with 
cream. 

PEACH SHORTCAKE — Slice and sweeten the peaches, and 
spread on the buttered cakes, as directed for other shortcakes. 

Apricots, or any other kind of fruit, may be used the same way. 

ORANGE SHORTCAKE.— Make a shortcake, as before described; 
then slice oranges, and put in layers of these, with sugar and cream. 
Serve with sweetened cream. 

For chicken shortcake see page 154. 



PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS. 

fN making pudding all the materials— butter, eggs, milk, and 
i fruit— should be good. After cutting SHeHnto slices and free- 
ing it from fibrous matter, chop it finely, dredging it lightly 
with flour during the process to keep the j)ieces from sticking 
together. Suet or milk, which is tainted in the least, will ruin a 
pudding. Fruit, when added, should be stirred in the last thing, the 
same as with cake. Wet fruit will make the pudding heavy, so have 
it drij before putting it in the pudding. The rules for preparing 
raisins and currants are the same as for "Cake" (which see). See 
also what we say there about grating lemon or orange peel. 

Have all spices and almonds, which are used, finley powdered. 
Break eggs separately, for 1 bad one will sjDoil the others; beat yolks 
and whites separately. It is a good plan to strain the yolks; add the 
whites last. A pinch of salt is an improvement to all puddings, but 
add it sparingly, as its flavor should not be detected. Do not add 
eggs to boiled milk till it cools a little, or they will coagulate into 
little lumps. 

Sugar should be used sparingly, as an excess of sugar is the 
cause of many a broken pudding. 

The ingredients for i)udding are generally better for being mixed 
some time before they are wanted. A batter pudding is better for 
standing a while. When you make a batter pudding, first mix the 
flour well with milk, and stir in the other ingredients by degrees; it 
will then be smooth and quite free from lumps. Another good way 
is to strain it through a coarse hair sieve. 

The Cloth Used. — A thick cloth is best for boiling large puddings. 
Canton flannel, with the nap side out, is excellent, although some 
cooks use muslin. Dip the cloth into boiling water before putting 
in the j)udding, then wring it, spread it over a basin, and tlredge it 
evenly and thickly with flour;' then put in the pudding, gather up 
the corners of the cloth, and tie them. If it is a bread pudding, tie 
it loose; if a batter pudding, tie it nearly close; fruit puddings 
should be tied quite close. As soon as possible after it is taken off 
of the pudding the cloth should be soaked in water, and then well 
washed, without soap unless it is very greasy. Then dry it well, fold 
it up, and keep in a dry place. It is perhaps needless to state that 
there should be no holes in the cloth. 

315 



316 PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS 

TO BOIL PUDDINGS.— The correct method is to put them at 
first into boiling water, and it should be I'Cjd boiling until they are 
done. Never keep them simmering in moderately hot water, as act- 
ive boiling is what they need. The principle is the same as described 
for cooking vegetables. Always beat up the pudding just before 
pouring it into the cloth. Keep the pudding cocered with water, 
and if it boils away pour in more water which is boiling. Move 
puddings occasionally, to keep them from sticking to the kettle. An 
inverted plate or saucer in the bottom of the kettle will save the 
pudding from burning or sticking to the bottom. When the jpud- 
ding is done, lift it out and dip it at once in cold water, let it stand 
to cool a minute, and the cloth will not adhere to it, nor will it 
break; untie the cloth and turn it away from the pudding, place a 
hot dish on top of it, and turn the pudding into it. If boiled in 
molds, treat the same way. Serve immediately, for if a pudding is 
allowed to stand, it will darken, fall, and be ruined. When preferred, 
the pudding may be boiled in a basin, but first grease the basin or 
mold well, and after putting in the i^udding, tie a floured cloth 
over it. 

Tinie to Boil. — There is an old saying that puddings cannot be 
too well boiled; and certainly there is more danger of boiling them 
too short than too long a time. They need to boil from 2 to 4 hours 
usually. 

STEAMING — As a rule puddings will be lighter and better if 
they are steamed rather than baked or boiled. Put them into a well 
greased tin pan or earthen dish, dredge a thick cloth with flour, tie it 
on top, set the dish in the steamer and cover it closely. Put the 
steamer over boiling water, which should be kept boiling, and during 
the whole process of steaming do not remove the cover. 

Time to Steam. — It takes a little longer to steam than to boil a 
pudding, and the steaming should be thorough. It will take from 2 
to 4| hours to steam puddings well. 

BAKING. — When baked puddings are sufiiciently solid, turn them 
out of the dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew fine- 
ly sifted sugar over them. If the outside of baked puddings are suffi- 
ciently brown, and yet they are not baked through, put a piece of 
white paper over them which will prevent the toj) from burning be- 
fore they are thoroughly cooked. Puddings made of custard require 
more care in baking than others, and should never remain in the oven 
until they become watery; they will be thicker and richer if made 
with 1 egg and baked slowly, than if made with 3 eggs and baked 



PUDDING SAUCES 317 

quickly. Any puddinc: in which milk and eggs are used, will sepa- 
rate if the oven is too hot, and it should therefore be cooked at a low 
temperature. 

The time to baJx'c depends on the pudding, a rice or tapioca pud- 
ding baking in about 1 hour, while a plum jDudding takes 2 or 3 
hours. 

TO CREAM BUTTER.— In making cake and the better class of 
puddings it is often desirable to beat the butter to a cream before us- 
ing it. Put the butter in an earthenware vessel (but do not use tin 
or iron, as they will discolor it), and beat it with a spoon or fork — a 
wooden or silver fork or spoon is best. After beating it about, the 
butter gradually comes back into a creamy state, but thicker than 
cream itself, and is then " creamed butter." If cold, warm the ves- 
sel by pouring hot water in it; then wipe it dry before using it. 



PUDDING SAUCES. 

Do not boil a sauce after adding the butter. If sugar and cream 
are served for a pudding sauce, pass them separately, letting each one 
use what their taste desires. 

Caramel. — This makes a fine flavoring for sauces as well as 
soups, and can be prepared as directed for soups. The prepared car- 
amel can be used if you have it on hand. (See the recipe for pre- 
paring it, given in our article on colors for frostings, in the chapter 
on Cake.) 

Caramel Syrup. — Sprinkle a tablespoon of sugar over the bot- 
tom of the frying-pan and put over the fire until it bubbles brown 
and begins to smoke, but do not let it burn black; then add a j)int of 
water, and let it boil until the caramel is dissolved; then add 2 cups 
granulated sugar and melt to a syrup. If liked heavier, add more 
sugar. This makes a fine substitute for maple sugar, and has much 
the same flavor. It is also excellent with griddle cakes. 

Substitute for Cream. — Use 2 cups sweet milk, yolk of 1 egg, 1 
teaspoon of flour, sugar to sweeten, and any flavoring desired. 
Boil the milk, beat the egg and flour with sugar enough to make qmte 
sweet; stir this into the milk when that boils, and let it simmer (not 
boil), stirring it well; flavor to taste when it cools. This is better 
than thin cream, and good for any pudding in which eggs are used. 

ACID PUDDING SAUCE.— Mix together thoroughly 1 cup 
sugar, I cup butter, and 2 tablespoons flour; add a little vinegar or 



318 PUDDING SAUCES 

juice of some acid fruit, and a little nutmetj^; pour on about 2 cups of 
boiling water, and boil a few minutes. 

BERRY PUDDING SAUCE.— Use 2 eggs, -| cup Imtter, and 1 
cup sugar beaten well, with 1 cup boiling milk, and 1 cup berries, 
steamed apples, or any fruit (chopped) you may have. Or (2) cream 
^ cup butter with 1 cuj) sugaf, add 1 cup of any fresh berries and stir 
well together. Jam or marmalade can be used instead of the berries. 

BROWN PUDDING SAUCE.— Take the yolk of 1 egg, ^ cup of 
butter, 1 cup of sugar; stir all to a cream, and add the whites of 2 
eggs, and a little nutmeg. 

CIDER SAUCE.— Use 1 tablespoon of flour, 2 tablespoons of 
l)utter, 4 tablespoons of boiled cider, 1 cup brown sugar, ^ cup boil- 
ing water. Mix the flour and butter, stir in the sugar and cider, add 
the boiling water, mix all thoroughly, and simmer a little wdiile. 

CREAM SAUCE. — Sweet cream, either alone or sent with white 
sugar, makes an excellent sauce for most x^uddings; it is sometimes 
flavored. 

WHIPPED CREAM SAUCE — Whip 1 cup ice cold sweet cream 
and ^ cup powdered sugar; add 1 teaspofm vanilla or lemon. The 
beaten whites of 1 to 3 eggs are often added. Nice with fruit pud- 
dings, or to cover slices of sponge cake. 

Use also the "Mock "Whipped Cream " given among our fillings 
for cake. It is delicious. 

DELICATE PUDDING SAUCE Scald a teacup of sweet milk, 

beat the yolks of 2 eggs with -| cup of brown sugar, and stir in; when 
it is thick as custard remove from the fire, and when cool add what- 
ever flavoring you choose, and the whites of the eggs beaten to a 
stiff froth. 

DUTCH SAUCE.— Take the juice of 1 lemon, and whites of 2 
eggs. Beat together with sufficient sugar to give the proper consist- 
ency. 

EGG SAUCE. — Beat to a cream 1 cup sugar, and ^ cup butter; 
add 1 egg, beaten separately, and set it over a kettle of hot water. 

FOAMING SAUCE — Use 1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, 1 tablespoon of 
boiling water. Beat the sugar and yolks together; pour the boiling 
water over. Beat the whites of eggs to a stiff froth and stir in last. 

Foam Sauce, No. 2. — Take the yolk of 1 Qii:<:: and beat it with 1 cup 
sugar and butter the size of an egg, until light, add boiling M^ater and 
set it over a kettle until cooked; flavor with lemon juice; beat the 
white of the egg to a stiff froth and add the last thing. 



PUDDING SAUCES 319 

FRUIT JUICE SAUCE— Take -| pint of any kind of fruit juice, 
like apricot, peacli, etc., add 1 teaspoon of flour or corn=starcli and | 
cup su,ij,ar; mix well, boil 5 minutes, and strain. 

GOLDEN SAUCE. — Beat 1 heaping tablespoon of butter into 1 
cup of powdered sugar until ligbt; stir into this the yolks of 3 eggs 
and 3 tablespoons of milk or cream, and add the stiffly beaten whites 
of the eggs. Set the bowl in which the sauce is being made in a ket- 
tle of boiling water, and stir constantly until it thickens, Init no 
longer; add lemon or vanilla when the sauce 's done. 

JELLY SAUCE. — Use 2 tablespoons of jelly, 2 heai)ing taljle- 
sxjoons of sugar, -| teasj)oon of corn starch and water. Melt the jelly 
and sugar in -J pint of boiling water; then dissolve the corn= starch in 
^ cup of cold water and stir it in; bring to a boil and it will be done. 
Any jelly can be used. 

HARD LEMON SAUCE Mix the grated rind of 1 lemon with 

2 cups sugar, and beat it to a cream with 1 cup butter; then 
thoroughly mix with the sauce the strained juice of the lemon. 

Hard Vanilla Sauce is made by beating to a cream 1 cup butter 
and 2 cups sugar, and then mixing in 1 teaspoon vanilla extract. 
Either of these go well with x^lain boiled rice. 

LEMON SAUCE. — Cream together 1 cup sugar and -| cup but- 
ter; add the juice and grated rind of 1 lemon, 1 egg well beaten, and 
1 teaspoon grated nutmeg; set the dish containing it in a pan of hot 
water, add ^ cup boiling water, and stir 5 minutes. Keep hot until 
used. 

Lemon Sauce, No. 2. — Take 1 cup of sugar, juice and grated rind 
of 1 lemon, 2 cups water, 1 tablespoon cornstarch; boil from S to 10 
minutes. 

LOMBARD SAUCE. — Heat 2 cups cream slowly, set in a sauce- 
pan of boiling water; when scalding hot, remove it from the fire, add 
4 teaspoons powdered sugar, and h teaspoon grated nutmeg; stir 2 or 

3 minutes, add the whites of 2 eggs, beaten stitf, mix thoroughly, 
add 1 teaspoon vanilla to flavor, and set in a pan of hot water to 
keep hot till served, stirring occasionally. 

MAPLE SAUCE. — Beat well together 2 cups ma^ile sugar, juice 
of 2 lemons, 2 eggs, and butter the size of a -walnut; i-team 20 
minutes. Good also on fritters. 

MAPLE SUGAR SAUCE. — Shave maple sugar into a bowl of 
thick, sweet cream. It makes one of the best of sauces for cornmeal 
pudding. 



320 PUDDING SAUCES 

MILK PUDDING SAUCE.— Take 1 egg, | cup butter, 1 cup of 
sugar; mix thoroughly together, and then pour over them 1 cup 
boiling milk. Flavor with nutmeg or vanilla. 

MOLASSES SAUCE.— Use 1 tablespoon of butter, | cup of 
water, 1 cup of molasses, ^ teaspoon of cinnamon (or nutmeg), ^ 
teaspoon of salt, juice of 1 lemon. Mix all together, and boil 20 
minutes. Good for rice or apple puddings. 

ORANGE SAUCE. — Use 1 cuj) hot water, 1 cup sugar, | cup 
butter, 1 heaping tablespoon of corn^^starch wet in the strained juice 
of 2 acid oranges ( the red, or blood oranges are the best ) ; boil the 
water, sugar and orange peel until the sugar is dissolved; then add 
the corn^starch and orange juice, and let boil until it thickens; take 
out the orange peel and add the butter, with 1 saltspoon of salt; stir 
well together, and serve. 

PINEAPPLE SAUCE. — Use 4 tablespoons sugar (heaping), 2 
tablespoons of butter, white of 1 egg (beaten), j)ineapple to flavor. 
Mix the sugar, butter and beaten egg, and add the flavor. Shape it 
into a pyramid, and make the sides like a pine=apple, using the point 
of a teaspoon. Any other flavor can be used, if preferred. 

PLAIN PUDDING SAUCE.— Beat together thoroughly, 1 table- 
spoon butter, 4 tablespoons sugar, and 1 tablespoon flour; add the 
white of 1 egg, well beaten, and | cup boiling water, and any flavor- 
ing desired. This makes a good sauce for ordinary uses, although 
most sauce recipes call for more butter. It goes well with any hot 
pudding. 

PLUM PUDDING SAUCE.— Eub 2 spoons of corn^starch 
smooth with a little milk, and stir it into 1 pint of boiling water; add 
a large piece of butter, and use currant jelly to flavor it with. It 
may be well to know that a good foundation for plum pudding sauce 
is the liquor in which it was boiled, as that is quite rich. 

Plum Pudding Sauce No. 2. — Use fresh butter and pulverized or 
granulated sugar beaten together until the mixture becomes of the 
consistency of cream. 

SWEET PUDDING SAUCE.— Beat to a cream | cup butter and 
1 cup sugar; thicken 1^- cups boiling water with a very little corn= 
starch (just enough to make it creamy); let it boil, draw to the back 
of the stove, and stir the butter and sugar. in quickly. Flavor with 
vanilla, lemon, nutmeg, or anything preferred. 

VANILLA SAUCE — Use the yolk of 1 egg, whites of 2 eggs, ^ 
cup sugar (powdered), 3 tablespoons sweet milk, 1 teaspoon of 



PUDDINGS 



321 



vanilla. First beat to a stiff froth the whites of 2 eggs; beat the 
sugar ill next; then the yolk of egg, and the milk and vanilla last. 
Serve at once. Most suitable for light puddings. 

VINEGAR SAUCE Use 1 tablespoon of flour, 1^ tablespoons 

of vinegar, 1 cup sugar, 2 cups boiling water, 1 teaspoon of butter, a 
pinch of salt, nutmeg. Mix the flour in a little water and stir in the 
vinegar, sugar, salt and nutmeg; add the boiling water, and boil 10 
minutes; add the butter last, just as it is about to be taken from the 
stove. 

WHITE PUDDING SAUCE.— Take 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 
tablespoon butter, and a little salt, pour on 1 cup boiling water, and, 
when it boils, thicken with 1 large tablespoon of flour blended in 3 
of milk; boil 1 minute, flavor with lemon, take from the fire, and stir 
in the whites of 3 eggs beaten to a stiif froth, with 1 tablespoon of 
powdered sugar added. 



PUDDINGS. 



Puddings are less expensive than pies, and they are also much 
more wholesome. 



PUDDING. 

1 teaspoon lemon essence. 
3 tablespoons of flour. 
1 ounce of butter. 



ALMOND 

1 pint of milk. 

2 ounces of almonds. 
4 ounces of sugar. 

3 eggs. 

Boil the milk and let it cool; beat the eggs lightly with the 
flour; blanch the almonds, and pound in a mortar to a paste with the 
essence of lemon, or use peach water; melt the butter in the milk, 
add the sugar and pounded almonds, and beat all well together. 
Bake in buttered cups, or small molds. 

The almond is the fruit of a tree which grows to a height 
of 20 to 30 feet, and resembles the peach. There are 2 varie- 
ties, the sweet and the bitter. Tli.e bitter are smaller and 
thicker than the sweet, and contain prussic acid, a most ac- 
tive y)oison. In domestic economy the sweet should always 
be used in preference to the others. Although considered 
nourishing they often disagree with those of weak digestion. 

APPLE PUDDING.— Use 1^ lbs. peeled ap- 
ples; make it into apple sauce, sweeten and spice 
to taste, add 4 eggs, a piece of butter ^ the size of 
an egg, and flour to stiffen; bake in a quick oven. 
Serve with a good sauce, or sugar and cream. 

21 




322 PUDDINGS 

APPLE INDIAN PUDDING. 

1 cup Indian meal. 2 teaspoons salt. 

1 cup molasses. 3 tablespoons butter. 

A little ginger and nutmeg. 1 quart apples, pared and (juart- 

2 quarts milk. ered (not too sour). 

Scald the milk and jDour it gradually on the meal; put this in 
the double boiler and cook ^ hour, stirring often. Butter a deep 
pudding dish, add molasses, butter, spices and apples to this mixture, 
and bake in a slow oven 3 hours. If any remains it may be eaten 
cold with cream or milk next day. 

BERKY PUDDING. 
1 cujj milk. 1 tablespoon melted butter. 

3 cups flour. 2 tablespoons liaking powder. 

1 egg. 1^ cups berries or fruit of any 

kind. 

Steam 2 hours. 

No. 2 — Mix 1 cuj) sugar (-| cup will do very well), 2 tablespoons 
butter, add 2 cups flour with 2 teaspoons baking powder sifted into 
it, a pinch of salt, 1 cup milk and 1 egg; cover a buttered pudding 
dish thick with berries, pour this batter over them, and bake about 
20 minutes. This is delicious with fresh blackberries, but is nearly 
as good with apples peeled and sliced, or with canned huckleberries 
or blackberries. For sauce, use 3 tablespoons sugar, 2 tablespoons 
butter, 1 egg, and flavoring. 

BIRD'S NEST PUDDING. 

Flour enough to make a stiff 1 egg. 

batter. 1 teaspoon of soda. 

1 pint sour milk. A little salt. 

Pare 4 or 5 apples, take out the cores, place in a buttered dish 
and pour over the batter. Bake about | hour. Use hard sauce or 
cream. 

BLACK PUDDING. — Sift 2 teaspoons baking i^owder into 1 cup 
flour, add 1 teaspoon cinnamon, ^ teaspoon ground cloves, a pinch of 
salt; wet with milk till smooth, and add 1 cup molasses, 1 tablespoon 
butter, 1 egg; bake in a greased pudding dish | hour. Use foam 
sauce or hard sauce. 

BREAD CRUMB PUDDING.— Take 1 teacup of dried crumbs, 
soak with boiling water, add 2 cups milk, 2 eggs, a full -J cup of 
sugar, a pinch of salt, a teaspoon of flavoring, and bake. It will 
be an improvement to cover it with a meringue and brown in the 
oven when cool; or spread a little jam on top. 



PUDDINGS 323 

BREAD PUDDING. 

2 cups bread crumbs soaked in 2 eggs (well beaten). 
4 cups milk. 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 teaspoon butter (heaping). 1 saltspoon nutmeg. 

^ cup white sugar. 

Stir well together and bake in A buttered jDudding dish | to 1 
hour. 

A nice dessert is made by stirring into a common bread pudding 
almost any kind of fruit, such as apples, raisins, peaches, prunes, 
dates, figs, cranberry sauce, jelly etc. ; then bake. Many varieties are 
thus easily produced. 

BREAD PUDDING No. 2. 

1 quart of milk. 1 small cup sugar. 

1 pint bread crumbs. 1| teaspoons vanilla extract. 

3 eggs. A small piece of butter. 

Beat the yolks of eggs and stir them with the rest of the ingre- 
dients, reserving the whites for the top. Bake the j)udding 25 min- 
utes, then take it from the oven, spread a layer of currant jelly over 
the top; beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, with 1 tablespoon 
of sugar, spread this on top of the jelly, return to the oven to brown 
on top. Raspberry jam is equally as good as jelly for this pudding. 
Serve wnth cream or a hot sauce. 

BERRY BREAD PUDDING.— Cut stale bread in even slices, 
pare otf the crust, and butter each slice; put the largest slice on a 
platter, cover it with canned huckleberries or blackberries which are 
heated scalding hot; put on another slice, cover it with the berries, 
and so on till all is used, and you have a neat mound of pudding. 
This may be covered and kept hot in the warming closet until serv- 
ing time, and eaten with hard sauce, or made early in the day and 
served cold with sugar and cream — it is delicious either way. If 
the berries are very sweet, adding 2 or 3 tablespoons of vinegar is 
an improvement. 

STEAMED BREAD PUDDING. 

1 pint bread crumbs. 1 cup raisins. 

1 CU13 molasses. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup hot water poured on the 1 tablesj)oon melted butter. 

bread. 1 egg. 

1 cujD flour. Spices to taste. 

Steam 2 hours. Good and inexpensive. 

CAKE PUDDING — Soak slices of stale cake in lemonade and 
lay them in a pudding dish. Pour over it a soft custard, and cover 



324 PUDDINGS 

it with a meringue; then place it in the oven to brown slightly. 
To be eaten cold. 

Cake Pudding No. 2. — Cut thin slices of stale cake of any kind, 
enough to fill a jaudding dish | full; then make plain " sweet sauce " 
enough to cover all, and let it stand in the oven until time to serve. 
A little lemon, or other fruit juice, can be added to the sweet sauce 
if liked. 

Cake Pudding No. 3. — Put any kind of stale cake in a steamer ^ 
hour before dinner, and steam it through; prepare a sauce by tak- 
ing |- cup sugar, 1 even tablespoon of flovir, a little water to moisten ; 
stir well together, pour in 1\ cups boiling water, grate in a little 
nutmeg, and boil 10 minutes; add a spoon of vinegar, and serve 
with the cake cut up in thick slices. 

CALIFORNIA PUDDING.— Use 1 cup sugar, ^ cup butter, | cup 
molasses, | cup sour milk, 1 cug chof)ped raisins, 1 teasiDoon soda, 
2^ cups flour. Steam 3 hours. Eat with whipped cream, or our . 
mock whipped cream (which see), or with our egg sauce. 

CANNED PUDDING — Soak and wash 1 pint of tapioca, and 
add 3 pints of warm water, and let it stand 3 hours in a kettle of 
boiling water; then place in glass fruit jars a layer of sliced peaches, 
with sugar enough to sweeten them, then a layer of tapioca, adding 
alternate layers until the cans are filled; then set them in a kettle 
in |- their depth of water, let the water come to boiling and keep 
the jars in |- hour; then take them out and seal them. A thickly 
folded cloth must be under the jars to keep them from touching the 
bottom of the kettle. Tapioca and apples can be canned the same 
way. Serve either hot or cold, with sweetened cream, or any liquid 
sauce. This canned pudding is convenient in case you need a des- 
sert in a hurry. 

CHARLOTTE PUDDING.— Butter a mold, then line it with thin 
slices of bread well buttered, with a welbbuttered slice on the bot- 
tom; fill with nice baking apples pared, quartered and cored, sea- 
soned with sugar and spices to taste; cover it with a thin slice of 
bread well buttered; put a plate or tin cover over that, and bake 2 
hours. Sponge cake may be substituted for bread, or slices of any 
plain cake, if it is preferred. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING.— Whip to a cream 1 cup sugar and ^ 
cup butter; add -| pint of milk, and the yolks of 2 eggs well beaten; 
add 1 pint of flour and 1 oz. of chocolate or cocoa which has been 
melted over hot water and beat until smooth: then add the whites 



PUDDINGS 



325 



of the 2 eggs, beaten stiff, and 1 teaspoon baking powder; put it in 
cups, and steam f hour. 

PUDDING. 

1 cup Zante currants. 



CHKISTMAS 

1 cuj) finely chopped suet. 



1 cup seeded raisins. 

1 egg. 

1 cup flour. 

1 cup sugar 



1 cup molasses. 

1 even teaspoon salt. 

1 even teaspoon soda. 

Cinnamon and allspice to season. 
Prepare the day before the pudding is cooked. Wash the cur- 
rants and pick over carefully; then put them wet into a cooking 
bowl to stand over night, and all the other ingredients excepting the 
flour and soda; beat well. The next morning add the flour and 
soda, and beat, and stir together again; put in the pudding basin 
or mold, and steam 4 hours. The water must boil in the steamer^ 
kettle, and be kept boiling until the pudding is taken up. Hot water 
from the tea= kettle can be added as needed. 

CHERRY PUDDING.— Put pitted and sweet- 
ened cherries an inch deej) or so, in the bottom of 
a pudding dish. Take 1 cup sugar, beaten to a 
cream with 2 tablespoons butter, add 1 egg, 1 cup 
milk, 2 cups flour, and 2 teaspoons baking pow- 
der; mix well, flavor with nutmeg or lemon, pour 
over the cherries, and bake. Then turn from the 
dish, having the fruit on top; and serve with 
warm sweet sauce. Or (2) cherries can be stirred 
into a common bread pudding, and then baked — 
see " Bread Pudding." 

The Cherry as a cultivated fruit tree is generally sup- 
posed to be of Asiatic origin. It belongs to the rose order. It bears a sub=acid 
fruit which is wholesome, cooling, laxative and antiscorbutic, but if not fully ripe 
should be eaten cautiously, as it has a tendency to disorder the bowels. Its acid is 
principally malic. 

COCOANUT PUDDING — Take nicely buttered slices of bread, 
sprinkle each one thickly with cocoanut and sugar, and put them 
into a pie dish. Make a custard of 2 cups milk and 2 eggs, pour it 
over, put bits of butter on top and bake 1 hour. 

COCOANUT RICE PUDDING.— Soak 1 cup of rice in water 3 
hours, then add 1 pint of milk and cook gently until it is tender; 
beat 5 eggs and 1 cup of white sugar together, add another pint of 
milk, a little salt and the rice, mix well, flavor with lemon and pour 
into a buttered bowl and boil steadily for 1 hour; dip the bowl into 
cold water after it is cooked, and let it stand about 10 minutes, turn 




326 PUDDINGS 

out into a flat dish and strew all over with desiccated cocoanut 
Serve with' a thin boiled custard for sauce. 

COKN PUDDING. 

12 ears of corn. 4 eggs, thoroughly beaten, 

1 quart of milk. 3 tablespoons of sugar. 

Salt and pepper to taste. 

Scald the corn, then grate it, add the other ingredients, and pour 
into a pudding dish. Bake slowly. 

CORN STARCH PUDDING. 

3 cups milk. 2 tablesj)oons corn=starch — in a 

1 teaspoon vanilla. little milk. 

2 eggs, beaten light. -^ cup of sugar. 

Let the milk and sugar boil before putting in the eggs, starch or 
vanilla. Save out the whites of the eggs for frosting, if you like. 

Corn=starch, as its name indicates, is the starch extracted from Indian corn. 
It is light and easily digested but is not very nutritious, as it is about 84^ starch, 
and 15% water. 

Note. — It should be understood that starch to be digestible should be cooked 
about 20 minutes, and that it is not cooked as soon as srvoUen, as many cooks 
imagine. There is danger of cooking corn-starch too short a time, and so leaving 
it indigestible, and with a raw taste. 

CRANBERRY PUDDING.— Use 1 egg, beaten light, 1 teaspoon 
soda dissolved in 1 clip milk, and sift 1 heaping teaspoon cream of 
tartar and a little salt thoroughly into 2 cups flour; add 1 cup of 
cranberries, and steam 1^ hours. Serve with sweet sauce. 

COTTAGE PUDDING. 
1 cup of suet. 1 egg. 

1 cup of sweet milk. 2 cups of flour. 

1 teaspoon cream tartar. ^ teaspoon soda 

Bake ^ hour. Eat with hot sauce. 

BAKED COTTAGE PUDDING. 

1 pint of flour. 1 small cup of sugar. 

1 cup of milk. 1 tablespoon of butter. 

2 teaspoons of baking powder. 

STEAMED COTTAGE PUDDING. 

3 tablespoons melted butter and 1 cup milk. 

1 teacup sugar beaten together. 1 egg. 

2 teaspoons of baking powder. 2 cups of flour. 

Steam |- hour. 

CRACKER PUDDING.— Put a layer of split crackers in a deep 
pudding dish, put on raisins, cinnamon, nutmeg and a little salt, and 
fill it ^ full with alternate layers in this way, packing it down 
tightly; then put a j)late over it, till the dish with milk, and let it 



PUDDINGS . 327 

stand several hours to soak. Then beat 2 eggs with 1 cup sugar, 
pour off any milk not absorbed and mix it with the eggs, adding 
more milk if needed; pour this over the pudding, leaving on the 
plate to keep it in shape, and bake about 2 hours. It should retain 
its shape when turned out, if right. Good either hot with sauce, or 
cold. 

CRACKED WHEAT PUDDING.— To 1 quart of unskimmed 
milk add | cup uncooked cracked wheat, ^ cup sugar, and a little 
piece of stick cinnamon, and |- cup of any fruit preferred. Bake in 
a moderate oven, and when about half done stir in the crust which 
will be formed, leaving it to form another, which will be sufficiently 
brown. Test by tasting a grain of the wheat, which must be very 
soft. Eat when cold. 

DATE PUDDING.— Soak 1 cup bread crumbs in 1 cup milk 10 
minutes; add 2 beaten eggs, 2 tablespoons powdered suet, 1 teaspoon 
each of salt and cinnamon and ^ cup sugar; have 1 cup dates cut 
into small ijieces, dredge them in 1 tablespoon of flour, stir them 
into the xaudding, beat all vigorously, turn into a well greased mold, 
and steam 3 hours. Eat with hard sauce. Or (2) stir dates into a 
common bread pudding and bake, see " Bread Pudding." 

DELMONICO PUDDING.— Mix 3 tablespoons corn^starch with a 
little cold milk, stir it into 4 cups milk, and add 6 tablesi^oons sugar 
and 5 yolks of eggs beaten together; boil 4 or 5 minutes, pour it in a 
pudding dish, and bake 30 minutes. Beat 6 tablespoons sugar and 
the whites of the eggs together, spread it on top of the pudding, and 
brown it delicately in the oven. 

DOVER PUDDING. 

1^ pints stewed apples. ^ pound butter 

1 cup cream. 4 eggs. 

Grated lemon peel and sugar to 
taste. 

Put in the butter while the apples are hot; the remainder when 
cool. Dried apples will do. "Bake in a quick oven in a deep pie tin, 
covered with crust. 

ENGLISH PUDDING. 

1 cup suet. 3^ cups flour. 

1 cup raisins, chopped. 1 cup of milk or cider. 

1 cup molasses. ^ teaspoon soda dissolved in the 

Add salt. molasses. 

Steam 3 hours. 



328 PUDDINGS 

FARINA PUDDING— Boil a quart of milk and water, half and 
half; add a level teaspoon of salt, then slowly sprinkle in farina until 
it is a thin mush; turn into small cups or molds to harden. Serve 
cold, one to each jierson, with sugar and cream, or any favorite liquid 
pudding sauce. This is a good dessert for hot weather, and particu- 
larly relished by invalids and children. This pudding can be mixed 
with milk, sugar and eggs, and baked like a rice pudding 

FEATHER PUDDING.— Use 1 egg, 1 cup sugar, 1 cup milk, 2 
cups flour, 3 teaspoons baking powder, 2 tablespoons melted butter; 
steam 1 hour. For sauce, cream ^ cup butter with 1 cuj) sugar, add 

1 cup raspberries and stir well together. Any jam or other fresh 
berries may be used instead of the raspberries. 

FIG PUDDING — Use 2 cups bread crumbs; chop fine and add -| 
lb. nice figs; cream 1 teacup butter with -J teacuxJ of brown sugar and 
add 4 beaten eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately; mix all 
together, put into a greased pudding mold and steam 3 hours; or it 
can be boiled in a pudding bag 2^ hours. Nice beef suet can be 
used instead of butter if more convenient. Eat with any good sweet 
pudding sauce. 

FRUIT PUDDING.— Into the farina boiler put 3 cups rich milk 
and 1 cup sugar and bring to a boil; have 5 tablespoons of sifted 
flour wet with 1 cup of milk, and pour on the hot mixture gradually, 
stirring all the time to prevent lumps; return to the kettle and cook 
till it thickens, — about 10 minutes after beginning to boil; then take 
from the stove and beat while cooling; when half cooled add sliced 
•peaches, apricots, bananas, whole raspberries, blackberries, huckle- 
berries or strawberries. Serve ice cold. Vary the amount of fruit to 
suit taste 

This pudding may be varied by leaving out the fruit and using 

2 cups strong coffee instead of that much milk, and proceed as 
before. Or, put 1 square of chocolate in the milk, omit the fruit, 
and thus make a chocolate pudding. 

GINGER PUDDING.— Take 1 cup molasses, 1 egg, i cup butter, 
^ cup hot water, 1 tablespoon ginger, 1 teaspoon soda; stir in flour 
enough to make pretty stiff, and add ^ cup of any fruit desired; put 
in a greased mold and steam 1^ hours. 

GOOSEBERRY PUDDING.— Cook the gooseberries until soft, in 
as little water as possible, rub them through a sieve, and add 2 table- 
spoons butter, 3 eggs well beaten, 1 teacup bread crumbs, | teacup 
sugar; put a border of puff paste around the side of a pudding dish, 



PUDDINGS 829 

beat the mixture well, or until very light, put it in a dish, and bake 
40 minutes. As soon as it is done strew sugar over it thickly, and 
serve at once. 

GOLD PUDDING.— To the welhbeaten yolks of 3 eggs, add ^ 
cup sugar, 1 tablesiDoon butter, 1 teaspoon baking powder in flour 
enough to make a fairly stiff batter, a little salt, and 1 cup seeded 
raisins; beat all well together, and steam 1 hour. Serve with our 
white jjudding sauce. The pudding will be a golden yellow, and 
with the white sauce will please both eye and palate. 

GRAHAM PUDDING. — Take 1 cup raisins seeded and chopped, 
1 cup molasses, 1 teaspoon soda dissolved in 1 scant cup sweet milk, 
I teaspoon salt, 2 cups graham flour; steam 3 hours. Fine. 

STEAMED GRAHAM PUDDING.— Beat together 3 eggs and 3 
tablespoons sugar, add 1 tablesiDoon melted butter, | cup sour cream, 
1 cup sour milk, 1 teaspoon soda sifted into 3 cups graham flour; 
add dried cherries, or pour over sliced apples, if fruit is desired, and 
steam. It is nice with or without fruit. Eat with cream and sugar. 

HANOVER PUDDING.— Sift 2 teaspoons baking powder into 2^ 
cups flour, add a pinch of salt and some spices (say cinnamon and 
nutmeg), 1 cuj) suet or ^ cup butter, | cup molasses, 1 cup milk, 1 
egg, 1 CU13 stoned raisins; boil 2^ to 3 hours. Eat with hard sauce, 
en" any liquid sauce preferred. 

HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING.— Beat 2 eggs without separating, 
add 1 cup milk, 1 tablespoon melted butter, 1| cups flour and beat 
thoroughly; have 2 cups huckleberries washed and dried, dust them 
with flour, add them to the pudding with 1 teaspoon of baking 
powder, mix quickly, turn into a greased mold, and steam 1 hour. 

INDIAN PUDDING, BAKED.— Stir gradually 1 even cup corn- 
meal in 1 quart of boiling milk, let boil a few minutes, lift from the 
stove, and add 1 teaspoon butter and a little salt; stir in ^ pint 
molasses, and ^ pint cold milk last; put into a pudding dish, well 
buttered, and bake 3 hours in a moderate oven. 

No. 2. — In 1 quart boiling milk, stir 1^ cups cornmeal, and 1 cuj) 
molasses; let it cool and add 1 teaspoon salt, 1 teacup suet, and stir 
in a little allspice; pour in 2 cups cold milk, and bake. 

INDIAN PUDDING, BOILED.— Warm 2 cups molasses and 2 
cups milk, stir well together; beat 4 eggs and stir with the molasses 
and milk; add 1 lb. beef suet chopped fine, and Indian meal enough 
to make a stiff batter; add 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon and nutmeg, 



330 PUDDINGS 

and R little grated lemon peel; stir together well, tie in the floured 
bag, lea^dng room to swell, and boil 3 hours Serve hot with a good 
Sfiuce. 

No. 2 — Use 1 cup flour, 1 heaping teaspoon of baking powder, 
1 teaspoon salt, 2 cups milk, 2 tablespoons melted butter (or 4 table- 
spoons sour cream), 3 eggs, 1 small pinch of soda, and enough corn- 
meal to make a stiff batter. Mix in the order given, and pour into a 
baking powder can, or any other covered can of convenient size; set 
in a kettle containing enough boiling water to come up nearly to the 
top of the can, place a weight on top of the can to keexD it upright, 
and boil about 2 hours. Eat with the maple sugar sauce given 
among our pudding sauces. 

INDIAN PUDDING, STEAMED.— Use 2 cups milk, 2 eggs, U 
cups Indian meal, 2 small tablespoons beef suet, 2 tablespoons 
molasses, -f, teasi^oon each of cinnamon and ground ginger, 1 salt- 
spoon salt, a pinch of soda. Heat the milk boiling hot, add the soda 
and pour it upon the meal; stir well, add the suet, chopped, and the 
salt; when it gets cold, add the eggs, beaten light, the molasses and 
spices, and beat all hard. Turn in a wellgreased mcjld. and steam 4 
hours. Eat with hard sauce. 

LEMON PUDDING Use 1 cup milk, 1 tablespoon butter, 1 

heaping teaspoon of baking powder, and Hour enough to roll out; roll 
in 3 sheets. Take juice of 1 lemon, 1 cup pulverized sugar, and 
spread between the layers like jelly. Put it in a tin and steam 3 
hours. Serve with our Lemon Sauce No. 1. 

Lemon Pudding No. 2. — Heat 4 cups milk, pour it over 2 cups bread 
crumbs and add 2 tal)lespoons butter; when cold add beaten yolks 
of 4 eggs, 1 cup sugar, the grated rind of 1 lemon; bake in a buttered 
dish till firm and slightly brown. When done, cover with a 
meringue made of 4 whites of eggs whipped with 4 tablespoons of 
sugar and the juice of 1 lemon, and brown slightly in the oven. 
Eat warm with lemon sauce. 

LOWELL PUDDING. 

1 cujD milk. 1 teacup suet. 

1 cup raisins. 1 teaspoon so.da. 

^ cujD molasses. 1 teaspoon salt. 

-^ teacup brown sugar. Flour to make a stiff batter. 

Steam 3 hours. Serve with any good sauce. 

MINUTE PUDDING.— Use 1 quart sweet milk, 2 eggs, 1 pint 
sifted flour, 1 level teaspoon of salt; beat the eggs well, add the flour, 
and milk enough to make it smooth. Butter the kettle, and put in 



PUDDINGS 331 

the remainder of the milk with the salt; when it boils, put in the 
eggs and flour, and cook until stiff. Serve hot with any simple 
sauce. 

No. 2. — Use 1 cup of water, 1 cup sweet milk, salt to taste; let it 
boil and stir in flour until it is a stiff batter; the flour must be stirred 
in very gradually, to avoid large lumps. Serve immediately with 
cream and maple sugar, or any good sauce. 

GRAHAM FLOUR MINUTE PUDDING. -Take i water and | 
milk, and when it boils stir in graham flour the same as if water 
alone was used, except that it should be made a little thicker. Cook 
about 10 minutes. Eat with sugar and cream. If you do not happen 
to have cream, jelly makes a nice sauce. Children are very fond of 
this simple pudding. 

ORANGE PUDDING — Boil 2 cups milk; beat 2 eggs light, add 
3 tablespoons sugar, grate in the yellow of 1 orange, pour in the milk 
hot, and beat 2 minutes; set the pan in a larger pan, filled with 
water, and put in the oven until set; sprinkle with sifted sugar, 
brown on top with a hot shovel, and cool. Eat with cream. 

FRUIT PUDDINGS — Take as many small pudding cloths as 
needed, spread boiled rice on each cloth, and then put on a peeled 
orange, or a pear or apple pared and cored, or stoned cherries, or ber- 
ries; then tie the cloths, having the fruit surrounded by the rice; 
boil till the fruit is cooked. Serve with sugar sprinkled plentifully 
on top, and with sweetened cream or any good sweet sauce. 

OXFORD PUDDING.— Take 1 cup rice 1 tablespoon oatmeal, 
3 tablespoons sugar, 1 teaspoon salt (level), 1 cup milk, d cups water; 
stir together, and bake 2 hours in a moderate oven. 

PEACH PUDDING. — Drain the liquor from a can of peaches, 
and wet ceraline with it, but do not make it too thick to pour, add 2 
eggs, well beaten, ^ cup sugar, and a little salt; pour this mixture 
into a buttered pudding dish, drop the reserved peaches into the cen 
ter of the mixture, and bake 15 to 25 minutes Good hot or cold, 
and without sauce, 

STEAMED PEACH PUDDING.- Fill a pudding dish with alter- 
nate layers of bread crumbs sprinkled with butter, and sweetened, 
sliced peaches, having a layer of bread crumbs on top; pour over this 
a custard made of 2 cups milk, the yolks of 2 eggs, and 2 tablespoons 
sugar; steam it, and serve with our Lombard Sauce. 

POTATO PUDDING. -Take 1 lb. of boiled potatoes mashed with 
sweet milk; add 4 lb, white sugar, 6 eggs, and 1 grated lemon; bake 
10 minutes. 



332 PUDDINGS 

PLAIN PLUM PUDDING. 

2 cups bread crumbs. 1 teaspoon of spices. 

1 teasi)ooii of salt. 2 cwps seeded raisins. 

1 cup chopped suet. 1 cup of flour. 

2 cups milk or water. 2 cups washed currants. 

3 cups sugar. 

Mix all the ingredients to make a stiff batter; if it is too thick, 
add more water, and if too thin, add more flour; then stir in 2 tea- 
spoons of baking powder, beat it well, tie loosely in a pudding cloth, 
so that it will have room to swell, and boil 4 hours. It can be placed 
in a mold or tin basin, with a plate to cover it, and steamed for the 
same length of fime, if more convenient. Serve with lemon pudding 

sauce. 

ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. 

3 eggs. I cuj) citron. 

3 cups flour. I teaspoon spices. 

1 cup chopped suet. A little nutmeg. 

^ cup candied lemon. 1 cup of raisins. 

1 cup molasses. 2 even teaspoons of cream of tartar. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 cup currants. 

1 teaspoon of soda. 1 cup brown sugar. 

1 teaspoon salt. Steam 4 hours. 

PRUNE PUDDING — Stew, stone and choi? 1 cup of prunes; 
beat whites of 6 eggs, add 1 cup of granulated sugar, beat well, mix 
with the prunes, and bake in a buttered mold, in slow oven, about 30 
minutes. Serve with whipped cream, mock whipped cream or thin 
custard. 

No. 2. — Stew prunes, stone them, stir into a plain bread pudding 
and bake — see " Bread Pudding." 

PRINCESS PUDDING.— Scald 4 cups sweet milk; stir in ^ cup 
of flour and | teaspoon of salt; when cool, stir in 6 welbbeaten eggs; 
bake 20 minutes. Serve with butter and sugar. 

STEAMED PUFF PUDDING.— Make a batter by sifting 2 tea- 
spoons baking powder and a little salt into 2 cups flour, and add milk 
enough to make it quite soft; butter cofPee=cups and put them in the 
steamer; drop in first a spoonful of batter, then 1 of berries, steamed 
apples, or any fruit or sauce you happen to have; then put in batter 
to fill the cup, and steam 25 minutes. Serve with our berry pud- 
ding sauce, using the same fruit for the sauce that you have in the 
pudding. 

QUEEN PUDDING Use 1 pint of bread crumbs, 1 quart of 

milk, 1 teacup white sugar, yolks of 4 eggs, grated rind of 1 lemon. 
Beat yolks, sugar and lemon together, and stir in the crumbs; bake 



PUDDINGS 333 

until it is of a nice brown color; when done, beat the whites of 4 eggs 
to a stiff froth, with 4 tablespoons of sugar; spread fruit jelly or jam 
over the pudding, then cover it with the frosting and set it in the 
oven to brown slightly. To be served cold. No one ever tires of 
this delicious, old fashioned dessert. 

RAISIN PUDDING — Cream together 1 cui3 sugar and -| cup 
butter; add 2 well beaten eggs, ^ cup milk and 2 cujds flour into 
which I teasi^oon of baking powder has been sifted; mix all well, 
and add 1 cup seeded raisins which have been sprinkled with a little 
flour; steam 2 hours. Serve with a good hot sauce. Or (2) stir 
chopped and seeded raisins into a common bread pudding and bake; 
see " Bread Pudding." 

RASPBERRY PUDDING.— Rub together l^ cups sugar, and ^ 
cup butter; add ^ cuj) milk, and 2 eggs; stir together well, and add 2 
cups flour with.l^ teaspoon of baking powder sifted in, and, lastly, 
add 2 cups fresh raspberries. Steam 3 hours. 

RATAFIA PUDDING. 

1 quart of milk. 4 tablespoons of sugar. 

2 eggs. ' ^ pound of ratafias. 

2 teaspoons of corn=starch. Flavor with cinnamon. 

Scald the milk in a double boiler; beat the sugar, eggs, and 
cornstarch together, and stir into the scalding milk; when it thick- 
ens, pour it into a welhbuttered pudding-dish; cover the top of the 
pudding with the ratafias — right side upwards — and bake |- hour. 
(For directions for making ratafias, see our chapter on "Candy.") 

RHUBARB PUDDING.— Butter a basin which will hold 1^ 
Joints, and line it with good suet crust rolled out to the thickness of 
^ inch. Fill it with rhubarb which has been stewed for ^ hour with 
a little moist sugar and the rind of half a lemon. Cover the i^udding 
with pastry, rolled out to the same thickness as the sides, pinch the 
edges securely, tie in a cloth, and boil 2 hours, or until done; then 
turn out carefully, and cut a small opening in the top for the escape 
of the steam. Serve with sweetened melted butter, or cream and 
sifted sugar. 

RICE PUDDING — Use 1 pint milk, 1 tablespoon washed rice, 
^ cup raisins, ^ cup sugar, a little salt and nutmeg. - Mix and put to 
bake; stir 4 times to keep rice and raisins mixed; let it bake about 1 
hour, or until the rice is done. Serve cold with cream and sugar. 

A Hint. — It is not generally known that the cheap, broken rice is better for 
puddings than the more expensive article. One tablespoon of this, well washed, 
the usual quantity of milk and sugar, and a pinch of grated nutmeg, with a little 
butter, will make an excellent rice pudding. Bake very slowly. 



334 PUDDINGS 

Rice Pudding No. 2. — Soak | cup rice in milk till soft, then add 4 
cups milk, a pinch of salt, and 2 tablespoons sugar; put in the oven 
and bake very slowly for 2 hours; it should be of the consistency of 
jelly v^^hen done. The secret of success with this pudding is to bake 
very slowly, and bake a long time. A cup of seeded raisins is a great 
improvement if added when it is put in the oven. Thick sweet 
cream is the best sauce for it, or sugar and cream mixed. 

Sago and Tapicoa puddings made in the same way are delicious, 
but without any raisins. 

Rice Pudding No. 3. — Use 2 tablespoons rice, 1 quart milk, | teacup 
white sugar, 1 teasj^oon vanilla or lemon; a little salt; scald the rice, 
then add the other ingredients and scattei- on top a little butter cut in 
small bits. Bake 2 hours in a slow oven. Pour over it -| hour l)e- 
fore it is done | teacup cold milk; this will make it creamy. 

ROLY POLY PUDDING.— Use 1 cup chopped suet, 3 cups 
flour, 1 even teasj)oon of baking powder, 1 even teasjjoon of salt. 
Mix the suet, flour, salt and baking jDowder together; then with a lit- 
tle cold water make a stiff dough; roll out in a long strip, and spread 
it with jam, jDreserves or fruit, leaving a little si^ace at the edges free; 
wet the edges and roll up the strip. Dij) a pudding cloth in hot 
water; flour it well; put in the pudding, roll, tie up the ends and wind 
it with a string to keep it in i^lace; boil 2 hours. Serve with sweet 
sauce with a trifle of lemon juice. The roly-poly can be baked in a 
buttered pan, if preferred, but without the cloth. 

SPONGE PUDDING.— Use 1 cup butter rubbed into 3 cups 
flour; 1 teaspoon soda stirred in 1 cup molasses; 1 cup sweet milk; ^ 
teaspoon cinnamon, ^ teaspoon nutmeg; 1 cup fruit, if liked; steam 
1^ hours. 

SUET PUDDING. 
1 cup of chopped suet. 1 egg. 

1 cup of seeded raisins. 1 teaspoon of salt. 

1 cup of molasses. 1 teaspoon of soda. 

1 cup of sour milk. Steam 2 hours. 

3 cups of flour. 

SUET PUDDING No. 2. 
1 cup molasses. ^ cup dried currants. 

1 cup sweet milk. 2| cups flour. 

1 cup suet, choi^x^ed fine. ^ teaspoon of soda. 

1 cujj of raisins. 

Mix well, add salt and spice to taste, and steam 2 hours. Eat 
with liquid sauce. If suet is objected to, or cannot be obtained, ^ 
cup of butter may be used. Be sure the pudding is thoroughly done. 
This is a good pudding to follow a picked up dinner, or if the supply 
is a little short, as it is rather substantial. 



PUDDINGS B35 

STEAMED PUDDING. 

1 cup of molasses. 1 teaspoon soda. 

I cup butter (scant). 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 cup sour milk. 2 teaspoons of cinnamon or in- 

1 cup raisins chopped fine. stead of this -^ a nutmeg. 
Steam 2| hours. 3 cups flour. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING — Soak 1 cup tapioca for 2 hours in cold 
water enough to cover it; if not all absorbed drain off what is left; 
add 1 quart of milk, and soak 2 hours longer; when the tapioca is 
quite soft, beat together 2 tablespoons melted butter and 2 table- 
spoons of sugar. Add this to the tapioca with the yolks of 4 eggs 
beaten light; stir well and bake till brown on top; then add the 
whites of the eggs, beaten to a froth with pulverized sugar, and re- 
turn to the oven to brown. Be careful to see that there are no hard 
lumi^s left. Eat either with or without sauce. 

Sago pudding may be made the same way. 

Rice Pudding can be made the same way, and can be made more 
dainty by adding the juice and grated rind of a lemon to the frosting. 

APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING.— Put 1 cup tapioca in 1 quart 
of cold water, and let it soak slowly on the stove until thin like 
starch ; have the -apples peeled and quartered and in a pan ready to 
bake; season the soaked tapioca with sugar, butter and nutmeg, pour 
it over the apj)les, and bake till done. 

COCOANUT TAPIOCA PUDDING.— Soak 3 tablespoons of tap- 
ioca in water over night; then put it in 1 quart of boiling milk and 
boil I hour; beat the yolks of 4 eggs with 1 cui3 sugar, add 3 table- 
spoons prepared cocoanut, stir it in, boil 10 minutes longer, and pour 
into a pudding dish. Beat the whites of the 4 eggs to a stiff froth, 
stir in 3 tables^Doons sugar, i)ut this over the top with a little cocoa- 
nut sprinkled over it, and brown 5 minutes in the oven. 

Tapioca is the starch extracted from the root of a plant which grows in South 
America, It is light and easily digested, but as it is about S'S% starch it is not very 
nutritious. When used for puddings crushed tapioca is better than t^at in large 
granules. 

Cassava is the starch from the same root more highly granulated. It is called 
Manioc in Brazil, and Yucca in Peru. 

WHORTLEBEKRY PUDDING. 

2 cups sugar. 6 eggs. 

2 cups bread crumbs. 2 heaj)ing teaspoons baking powder. 

1 quart milk, 1 tablespoon of salt. 

4 cups flour. 

Make to a stiff batter, and mix in 1 quart of whortleberries. Put 
it in a buttered mold, and steam 3 hours. Half this will do for a 
small family. Serve with any liquid pudding sauce preferred. 



336 DUMPLINGS 

DUMPLINGS. 

In putting dumplings of any kind into water to boil, put them 
in one at a time, as they will mix or stick if put in together. 

APPLE DUMPLINGS.— These may be either baked or boiled; if 
baked, they should be made with pastry; if boiled, use a light suet 
crust. In either case pare the apples and scoop out the core, filling 
up the space with sugar and a clove, or some grated lemon peel. 

For baked dumplings make a light puff paste, enclose the apples 
in it, making as many as desired, pinch the edges so closely that no 
seam can be seen, and bake 20 minutes in a good oven. Eat with a 
rich iDudding sauce, or with maple syrup. 

For boiled dumplings chop | lb. beef suet very finely, add ^ lb. 
flour, a little salt and baking powder, and mix with water enough to 
give it consistency; roll out twice on the pastry board, enclose the 
apples as for baked dumplings, put them in boiling water, and boil 
fast 1 hour. Drain, and serve with sweet sauce. 

CHERRY DUMPLINGS. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup prepared flour, or use flour 

2 cups stoned cherries. and baking powder same as for 
2 heaping tablespoons lard. , biscuits. 

2 cups sweet milk. A little salt. 

After rubbing the lard into the salted flour, add the milk, then 
roll out ^ inch thick. Cut into squares, and into the middle of each 
one put 2 spoonfuls of the stoned cherries. Add sugar, and then 
bring the edges together and pinch closely. Bake until done on a 
floured baking=pan, with the joined edges at the bottom. Eat while 
hot. 

HUCKLEBERRY DUMPLINGS.— Use 1 tablespoon lard, 4 cups 
flour, 1 cup milk, 3 teaspoons baking powder. Sift the baking i^ow- 
der into the flour, work in the lard, and add the milk; when rolled 
out, cut rather larger than biscuit; after putting in the berries close 
the edges tightly, and boil (or steam) 20 minutes. 

JAM DUMPLINGS.— Roll out a puff paste, and spread jam 
(raspberry or any other) on it; make into dumplings and boil till 
done— about 1 hour usually. Serve with a sauce made of ^ butter to 
I sugar, beaten to a cream. 

STEAMED DUMPLINGS.— Pare and quarter nice tart apples, 
place them in a deep dish, adding a little water; make a crust as you 
would for tea biscuit, with sour cream, or rich buttermilk, if you 
have it; if not, use a good baking-powder recipe; roll out about 1 



DUMPLINGS 337 

inch thick, place it over the apples, and steam ^ hour. Serve with a 
sauce made of | butter to | sugar, beaten to a cream. 

Fruit Dumplings of any kind can be made in this way, using any 
kind of fruit, either fresh or canned instead of the apples. 

PANDOWDY — Pare, core, and slice thin, sour, juicy apples; 
butter a deep dish and put in a layer of ajoples, sweeten with 
brown sugar and flavor with lemon peel; strew over it a layer of 
bread crumbs, and bits of butter; rejDeat alternately till the dish is 
full, finishing with a layer of bread crumbs. Bake till the apples are 
soft. A little cider improves it. To be eaten with sweetened cream. 

22 



DOUGHNUTS AND FRITTERS. 

\ I /HE Fat. — The fat for frying doughnuts and fritters may be any 
\\ ' soft fat free from rancidity, which is at hand; jjure leaf lard, 
@J I l9 for this purpose, was once considered indispensable, but 
soft suet, or the fat trimmed from the outside of fat beef, is 
excellent, combined with lard; also clarified drippings from roasted 
meat, either beef or pork. A small proportion of the hard kidney 
suet of beef may be added, but if hard suet is in excess in frying fat, 
food cooked therein will have a thick, tallowy crust, which is neither 
palatable nor digestible. Cottonseed oil, alone, or in combination 
with a small proportion of beef suet is used by some cooks; others 
dislike it. With this, as with some other food preparations, the taste 
may perhaps be acquired. Mutton fat should never be added to the 
frying kettle, or used in any way; as stated elsewhere, the strong odor 
to which many people have a great aversion, is intensified by reheat- 
ing; besides, it is the hardest of animal fats, and cools too quickly on 
food cooked in it. If black specks adhere to the doughnuts after 
they are fried, i^ut a few slices of raw potato in the fat, and the 
specks will adhere to the potato. If lard or drippings are not per- 
fectly sweet, before putting in any dough put in spme slices of raw 
potato and fry them; the potatoes will absorb the rank flavor. A few 
slices of raw potatoes in the kettle while cooking doughnuts will keep 
the odor from permeating the house. 

Potatoes are largely composed of starch and carbon and they purify the fat in 
much the same way that water is purified by charcoal; being very porous, and 
possessing great powers of absorption, they take up the gases and odors, thus puri- 
fying the fat. 

The Kettle. — A kettle should be kept for the purpose of frying 
doughnuts and fritters, and one rounded at the bottom, broad, and 
shallow, is the most convenient shape. 

Clarifying Fat — The frying fat must be clarified from time to 
time, as more or less flour falls to the bottom of the kettle whenever 
it is used; the fat can be i)oured while still warm — not hot — into a 
pan of water, and the settlings scra^^ed from the cake of fat when it 
is cold; a more simple way is to set the kettle away with the fat in it 
to cool, and when next wanted for use set on the fire just long enough 
to s/cfr/ the cake of fat in the kettle; lift it from the kettle with a 
carving fork, and with a knife cut the black from the cake of fat, 
wipe out the kettle with papers and put them in the fire; then return 

33« 



DOUGHNUTS, CRULLERS, ETC. 339 

the fat to the kettle and add more if needed. The dirty looking sedi- 
ment is commonly thrown away, but it need not be altogether wasted; 
when a considerable quantity has accumulated it may be clarified by 
the second method described for clarifying fats in our article on fry- 
ing meats, etc. (which see). 

The Dough. — Be careful in shortening all doughs to be fried in fat, 
either for doughnuts or fritters, for if too tender they will absorb the 
frying fat. If shortening is used, eggs must be added and the dough 
made more stitT, to counteract the tendency to soak fat; little or no 
shortening is best for most doughs cooked in fat. The fat must also 
be hot enough for any dough placed in it to rise instantly to the sur- 
face of the fat; this can be ascertained by trying it with a small bit 
of dough, before proceeding with a quantity. Remember that a fre- 
quent cause of trouble is not having the fat hot enough, and we have 
several times alluded to this. Have it so that it gives off a blue 
smoke, as explained for frying meats (which see). 



DOUGHNUTS, CRULLERS, ETC. 

In frying all kinds of doughnuts let them thoroughly brown on 
one side before turning them; in this way they rise thoroughly, and 
are much lighter than if frequently turned while frying, but fry both 
sides well before taking them out. Do not fry so many at once as to 
cause crowding. When done, take them out, let them drain, and 
when cool keep them in an earthen crock. 

Fried cakes keep moist longer wdien made with brown sugar 
than when made with any other kind. 

The time required to fry is 3 to 5 minutes. 

DOUGHNUTS. {Extra Nice). 

1 cup sour cream. 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 cup sour milk. 1 teaspoon soda (heaping). 

1 cup sugar (heaping). Flour to roll. 

3 eggs. ^ 

Beat yolks and sugar tog-ether, add cream, milk, salt, beaten 
whites and flour containing soda. Fry in smoking hot fat. Excel- 
lent. 

RAISED DOUGHNUTS. _ 

1 cuj) Gutter and lard mixed. 1 cujo yeast. 

2 cups sugar. 3 eggs, beaten. 
1 cup warm water. Salt and spices. 

Rub the butter and lard into a quart of sifted flour, add 1 even 
tablespoon of salt, and spices if liked; put the water in the flour, 



340 DOUGHNUTS, CRULLEKS, ETC. 

then the beaten eggs, then the sugar; now mix all together, and add 

flour enough to mold into a soft dough; let it rise over night, knead 

down again in the morning, let it lie on the moldings 

board until it begins to rise again, then roll out and 

cut in rings or make into twists, and fry in hot fat. 

A cup of washed and dried Zante currants are nice 

in these cakes. 




Zante Currants are not really currants at all; they are small 
grapes grown in Zante, which is an island near the western 
coast of Greece. They are cultivated on an immense plain u..- 
der the shelter of the mountains, and when gathered and dried 
in the sun and air they are stored in magazines until ready for 
shipment. Zante produces about 9,000.000 lbs. of these currants zante oubbants. 
annually. Zante currants are rather indigestible. 

PLAIN DOUGHNUTS.— Use 1 cup new milk, 1 level teaspoon 
of salt, 1 heaping teaspoon of baking powder sifted into 2 cups of 
flour; mix all together, and add a little more flour if needed, but the 
cakes are better to be made quite soft. Do not mold the dough but 
place it on the molding=board, flatten the dough down with the 
hands until it is about an inch thick, cut into shape and fry in hot 
fat. Powdered sugar can be dredged over them when served, if 
liked. 

OHIO DOUGHNUTS. — Use 3 eggs, 1 cup sugar, 2 cui^s new milk, 
1 teasi^oon salt, a little nutmeg, and flour enough to permit the spoon 
to stand upright in the mixture; add 2 teaspoons baking j)owder and 
beat until very light. Drop by the dessertspoonful into hot fat. 
They will not absorb the fat, and are as digestible as any doughnuts. 

COFFEE DOUGHNUTS — Use one cup sour milk, 1 teaspoon 
of salt, 1 tablespoon of sugar, 1 teaspoon of soda; make the flour as 
soft as you can handle it; then make into twists or rings, and fry in 
hot fat. These are not rich but are nice in the morning with coffee. 

CREAM DOUGHNUTS. — Beat 1 cuj) sour cream, 1 cup sugar 
and 2 eggs together; add 1 teaspoon soda, a little salt and flour 
enough to roll. 

CRULLERS. 

1 cup butter. 3 eggs. 

2 cups sugar. Spice to taste. 

2 cups sour milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Use flour to stiffen; cut out and fry. 

CAROLINA CRULLERS. 

Butter size of egg, 3 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. Flour enough to roll. 



FRITTEKS 341 

FEIED CAKES 

1 large spoon melted butter. 3 teaspoons baking powder. 

2 cups sugar (scant). 1 saltspoon cinnamon. 
1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon salt. 

4 eggs, medium sized. Flour to roll. 

FLORIDA FRIED CAKES. 

1 tablespoon shortening. 1 teaspoon soda. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon salt. 
2 cups sour milk. Flour to roll. 

2 eggs. 

JOLLY BOYS. 

^ cup sugar. 1 cup flour. 

1 egg. 2 cups cornmeal (scalded). 

I teaspoon of salt. ^ teaspoon soda. 

Drop by tablespoonfuls into smoking hot fat, and fry like 
doughnuts. 



FRITTERS. 

These are composed of batters and doughs of various kinds, 
usually enclpsing fruits or sweets of some sort, and are fried in hot 
fat; they are eaten hot, and some sweet sauce or sugar served with 
them. They should be quickly made, and thoroughly beaten. The 
batter should be smooth and thick enough to cling to whatever is 
dipped into it without running off, and the fat should be very hot, in 
fact, it should smoke. Probably more cooks fail on the heat of the 
fat than on anything else, and yet it should not be too hot. When it 
gives off a blue smoke, as we described in our directions for frying 
meats, etc., it is right; or test it by dropping in a teaspoon of the 
batter; if the temj)erature is right, the batter will quickly rise to the 
surface in a pufp ball, sputtering and dancing, and will speedily 
become a light brown. When the fat is right it will not soak into 
the dough, but will make it delightfully crisp, light, and puffy. In 
the introduction to this chapter we explain about the kinds of fat to 
use. Take the fritters out with a skimmer, as soon as they are done, 
dislodge any fat which adheres, pile them in a hot dish, sift sugar 
over them, and serve at once. 

The batter may be simply made, as for griddle cakes, and of 
about the same consistency. If it is allowed to stand an hour or so 
before being used, the starch grains will swell by contact with the 
moisture, and hence it will be lighter. Eggs added to the batter 
make it crisp and delicate, and ensure a good coating over the fruit, 



M'2 FRITTERS . • 

etc., enclosed. Baking powder, or cream of tartar and soda, are 
sometimes used when the batter is M'anted very light; when shorten- 
ing is used add eggs also, as their albumen quickly coagulates in 
the hot fat, and forms a crust, or film, which prevents the fat from 
soaking in. The best batter is made with the yolk of egg, and just 
before using, the white is beaten to a stiff froth and added also. 
Always add a little salt. A little more flour can be used, making the 
batter a little thicker, for fruit which is very juicy. 

Fritters are quickly made, and can be served for breakfast, lunch- 
eon, tea, or a dessert for dinner, and they are almost invarial)ly rel- 
ished. Hot caramel syrup, or maple syrup, can be served with them, 
or the sinqDle white syrup made of granulated sugar and a little 
water, while many of the pudding sauces are also suitable. 

TJ(e time needed to fry is 3 to 5 minutes. 

FRITTER BATTER {Plain).— Vse 2 cups of flour and 2 eggs. 
Beat the eggs and flour together, and add enough sweet milk to 
make a batter of the consistency of griddle cakes; then beat in a 
level teaspoon of salt. This batter is simply made, and can be used 
for any kind of fritters. 

Batter No. 2. — Mix together ^ cup w'ater or milk, 1 saltspoon of 
salt, 1 tablespoon melted butter, and the welhbeaten yolks of 2 eggs; 
then beat in enough flour to make a good batter of it. Many cooks 
use 1 tablespoon of olive oil instead of the butter, and prefer it. 
Just before using it beat in the well beaten whites of the 2 eggs. If 
it is used for meat, oysters, or clams, 2 teaspoons of vinegar or lemon 
juice will be an improvement; if for fruit, add instead 1 teaspoon of 
sugar. 

APPLE FRITTERS.— Peel the apples, and take out the core 
with a core=cutter, cut the axjples in thick slices, crosswise— this 
makes a ring; sprinkle with sugar and let them lie for an hour; 
then dip each jDiece in batter, and fry until of a light brown color. 
Sprinkle again with sugar and send to the table. 

BANANA FRITTERS.— Cut the. bananas in 
slices I inch thick, sprinkle with powdered cinna- 
mon, dip in batter, and fry in hot fat. Serve with 
syrup. 

BERRY FRITTERS.— Make a batter- of 2 eggs 
well beaten, add a gill of cream and a gill of milk 
thickened with a tablesj^oon of corn=starch; season 
with a little sugar and cinnamon. Put raw straw- 
berries into this batter, and fry them in a pan of hot 




FRITTEKS 343 

fat, a spoonful at a time. Dish them in a pyramid, and sift sugar 
over and between them. 

Raspberries, Blackberries, Currants, and other small fruits can be 
made into fritters in this manner, and are delicious. 

BREAD FRITTERS.— Cut stale bread into slices ^ inch thick, 
and then cut it into small squares. Into 2 cups milk put a piece of 
cinnamon and the rind of a lemon; boilit ^ hour; dip the bits of 
bread in the milk, lay them on a cloth to drain, then dip them in 
beaten egg, and fry a delicate brown in smoking hot fat. Sprinkle 
with powdered sugar, and serve. Or (2) dip thin slices of yeast 
bread in the plain fritter batter, and fry a delicate brown. Sprinkle 
on powdered sugar, and garnish with jelly. 

CAKE FRITTERS.— Cut rounds, squares or triangles of any kind 
of dry cake, dip them in milk with a little lemon juice added, then 
flour them, and fry in hot fat. 

CARROT FRITTERS.— Take 2 boiled carrots, beat them to a 
pulp, add 2 eggs, 3 tablespoons of flour, moisten them with milk or 
cream, add 1 teaspoon sugar, and beat together thoroughly; drojj by 
spoonfuls into smoking hot fat; when done, squeeze a little orange 
juice over them, and sprinkle on pulverized sugar. 

CLAM FRITTERS. Drain the liquor from the clams, and make 
a fritter batter with it; chop the hard part of the clams, mix them in 
the batter, and drop by spoonfuls into smoking hot fat. 

CORN FRITTERS.— Boil the corn, cut it from the cob, mix it in 
the fritter batter, and drop by spoonfuls into smoking hot fat. 

CORNMEAL FRITTERS.— To the w^elhbeaten yolks of 4 eggs 
add 3 cups milk, 2 cups cornmeal, 1 tablespoon sugar, 1 tablespoon 
melted butter, 1 teaspoon salt; mix all thoroughly, and add the welh 
beaten whites of the 4 eggs, and -J cup flour in which -| teaspoon 
baking powder has been sifted; droj) by spoonfuls into smoking hot 
fat; when done, drain on paper, to absorb the fat. Eat with a sauce 
made of butter and sugar, seasoned with cinnamon. 

CREAM FRITTERS.— Mix 3 cups flour with 2 cups milk; stir in 
6 well-beaten eggs, then 2 teasjjoons salt and 2 cups cream; stir the 
whole just enough to intermix the cream, and fry. - The addition of a 
few tender apples, chopped fine, will improve them. 

FRUIT FRITTERS.— Almost every kind of fruit will make frit- 
ters. If the fruit is cut up, sprinkled with sugar, and allowed to 
stand 2 or 3 hours before being used, the flavor is improved; a little 



344 FRITTERS 

grated lemon peel can be added also, if desired. Then drain the 
frnit, dip or mix it in batter, and fry in hot fat. Apricots, peaches, 
pears, pineapples, etc., make nice fritters in this way. Canned 
fruit can also be used, and makes nice fritters. 

JELLY OR JAM FRITTERS.— Make a batter of 2 eggs, 1 cup 
of milk, and flour enough to thicken to the consistency of griddle 
cakes; beat in a level teaspoon of salt, and drop in spoonfuls in hot 
fat; fry brown. When well drained, place on each one a bit of jam 
or firm jelly. (Lemon jelly made with gelatine is nice for these 
fritters). 

LEMON FRITTERS.— The lemons must be sliced as thin as 
paper, the seeds carefully removed, and then cover them with batter, 
and fry in hot fat. 

Orange Fritters can be made the same way. 

MEAT FRITTERS.— Take cold meat of any kind, cut it into 
small pieces, season with pej^per and salt, cover with fritter batter, 
and fry in smoking hot fat; drain on brown paper and serve. A few 
drops of lemon juice or vinegar on the meat and a little nutmeg 
grated on will be an improvement, or the lemon juice or vinegar can 
be added to the fritter batter. (Se our batter No. 2.) 

Tripe makes good fritters. Make like other meat fritters. 

OYSTER FRITTERS. — Drain the liquor from the oysters, and to 
1 cup of this liquor add 1 cvip milk, 3 beaten eggs, a little salt, and 
flour enough to make a thin batter; chop the oysters, add them to 
the batter, and droj) by the spoonful into smoking hot fat. Serve 
immediately when done. Or (2) boil the oysters until the liquor 
flows; make a batter with the liquor, dip in each oyster whole, and 
fry in smoking hot fat. A little lemon juice or vinegar added either 
to the oysters or the batter will be an improvement. 

PORK FRITTERS — Dip thin slices of fat jDork, or breakfast ba- 
con, in batter, and fry in hot fat. 

POTATO FRITTERS.— Use 2 cups mashed potatoes, 1 egg, | 
teaspoon salt, and 3 tablespoons flour, into which ^ teaspoon baking 
l^owder is sifted; make in rolls, roll in flour, and fry in hot fat. 
These are a nice relish for breakfast. 

RAW POTATO FRITTERS.— Grate 4 large raw potatoes, add a 
little salt and cayenne pepper, and make a rather thick batter by 
adding 2 beaten eggs; drop in hot fat by spoonfuls and fry a light 
brown. 



FRITTERS 345 

RICE FRITTERS.— To 1 cup of boiled or steamed rice allow 2 
eggs, and a tablespoon of flour; add a saltspoon of salt, and 1 of 
ground cinnamon; mix thoroughly with the hand, then dro^j by 
spoonfuls in hot lard; fry biv^wn. 

SALSIFY FRITTERS.— Boil the salsify, mash it, pick out all 
tough fibres, and for each 2 cups of mashed salsify work in 1 table- 
spoon of butter, and then -| cup of milk and 3 w^elhbeaten eggs; 
thicken with a little flour, make into round cakes, dredge with flour 
and fry in smoking hot fat; or the batter may be fried like griddle 
cakes. 

VEGETABLE FRITTERS — Boil the vegetables until tender, 
and either cut in slices, dip them in the fritter batter and fry, or 
chop fine, mix the pieces into fritter batter, and drop it by spoonfuls 
into smoking hot fat and fry a delicate brown. Celery, parsnips, and 
other vegetables can be used. 

VARIOUS FRITTERS. — An ingenious cook can easily devise va- 
rieties by using different flavors. Use vinegar or lemon juice for 
meat, oyster or clam fritters, and cinnamon, nutmeg, orange juice, 
jellies, etc., in various combinations, and also vary the sauces used. 
As almost any meat, fruit or vegetables can be used for fritters, the 
varieties that can be produced are almost endless. 

CANNELONS — These are made of puff paste rolled very thin, 
and cut in pieces about 2 inches wide and 6 inches long; place upon 
each piece a spoonful of jam, w^et the edges with the white of egg, 
and fold the paste over twice to prevent the escape of the jam while 
frying; slightly press the edges of the cannelons, and fry in smoking 
hot fat until a nice brown. Lay them on blotting paper to absorb su- 
perfluous fat, and sprinkle with sugar before serving. Cannelons 
can be made with any kind of fresh fruit, and are delicious. 



CAKE. 

^ I /HE 4 corner-stones of cake making are flour, sugar, butter 
\\f aiid eggs. By combining these in varying proportions and 
S> I ^ using a few minor accessories, an endless variety of attrac- 
tive and delicious cakes are obtained. 

In measuring for cake the cuj)s, if more than 1 is used, must be of 
exactly the same size, for the cook must remember that success is 
more apt to follow accuracy of measurement. Make the fire the first 
thing, and while the oven is heating, measure and place on the cook- 
ing table (t.U the materials for the cake, and have at hand all the 
implements (forks, spoons, cup, beaters,) which will be required in 
making it. 

Materials for cake.— These should always be of the best quality, 
as cake is a luxury, and if served at all should be made of the best 
ingredients. Have everything j)erfectly dry, as dam^Dness in the 
materials is almost certain to produce heaviness in the cake. It 
is best to have each ingredient properly prepared before beginning 
to mix the cake, and in cold weather warm them to a uniform tem- 
perature and they will mix better. While all the materials should 
be good, however, many cooks are needlessly extravagant in their 
use of butter and eggs, and we commend to our readers the econom- 
ical recipes which we have gathered together in this, as in other de- 
partments of the book. 

Butter used in cake making should be free from rancidity. In 
cold weather let it stand near the stove to soften, but most cake mak- 
ers agree that it should not melt. It must be worked and beaten 
with the sugar until it is thoroughly creamed. Many cooks use 
moderately salted butter without washing, as the small amount of 
salt which it contains adds to the flavor of the cake, but if it is ex- 
cessively salted the washing process is indispensable. To wash 
butter it must be thoroughly worked with the hands in a deep pan 
or pail of water until it is soft and pasty, changing the water once 
or twice if needed. In cold weather the water may be slightly 
warmed, but in summer it should be cold. 

Sugar should always be dry and well powdered. For delicate 
cakes, pulverized or the finest grades of granulated siigar should be 
used. Some kinds of fruit cake have a fine flavor imparted by using 
a good quality of unrefined brown sugar, and brown sugar is suita- 

346 



CAKE 347 

ble for most dark cakes. Cake is made heavy liy using very coarse 
granulated sugar. Lumpy sugar should always be crushed and 
sifted. 

For many of the finer cakes coffee "A" sugar i^roduces better re- 
sults than any other kind. 

Molasses for cooking should be the rich, dark New Orleans or 
West India molasses. Light colored syrups are sometimes made of 
glucose and are inferior, being less sweet than that drained from 
crude sugar, these grades being the viscid, brown liquid which drains 
from sugar during its formation. In baking cakes remember that 
those containing molasses burn quicker than others. 

flour.— Pastry Flour (that is " old process" or St. Louis flour) is 
much the best for all kinds of cake. It contains more starch and less 
gluten than the new process flour. A trifle less flour (about ^ less) 
must be used if it is new process. Be sure the flour is dry; sift it be- 
fore using, and if it is cold, warm it slightly. Measure it after be- 
ing sifted. The baking powder or cream of tartar should be sifted 
into it. 

Eggs will beat more quickly in cold weather if they are placed for 
a short time in warm water before breaking them. In summer put 
them in cold water for a short time. Break each egg separately into 
a cup to make sure that it is not stale; not only loolc to see if it is 
good but test it also by smelling. An egg that is the least tainted 
will spoil the cake or anything else in which it is used. The quick- 
est way to separate the yolk and the white is to carefully break them 
into a plate and then lift out the yolk with the fingers, allowing the 
white to fall between them. If even the smallest amount of yolk 
gets mixed into the whites they will not froth. Beat eggs in an 
earthen dish. The whites and yolks are best beaten separately as it 
takes longer to beat the whites. When beaten separately, if the cook 
has no assistant, the yolks should be beaten first and until they are a 
light lemon color, and strain them if the cake is fine; then beat the 
whites until they are too stiff to fall out of an inverted disK If the 
whites become liquid again they cannot afterwards be made light, so 
do not stop beating till they are light and stiff. The eggs should be 
put in a cool place till wanted to use. When only the whites are 
used, the yolks, if unbroken and kept covered, will keep 2 or 3 days, 
but it is better to use them at once, working them into custards, etc. 
The whites of eggs will beat quicker if a pinch of salt is added, and 
they also beat more easily in a cool place or in a draught. If both 
yolks and whites are strained through a sieve before beating them 
they will beat smoother and easier. 



348 



CAKE 



The object in beating eggs is to force in air. The more and quicker they are 
beaten the better, up to the point where the albumen forms a thin film around all 
the air bubbles it will hold — millions of them. More beating after that only serves 
to break the film and let the air escape, and then the eggs will fall. If allowed to 
stand after being beaten, their own weight will break the thin films, the air will es- 
cape, and they will fall. Because of the oil contained in yolks they will, if added 
to beaten whites, cause the films to break, and so let out the air. This is the prin- 
ciple involved. 

Milk when called for in our recipes, always means sweet milk, un- 
less otherwise specified. Some cooks use water instead of milk in 
even the best cakes, and water can be substituted without detriment, 
so that if you wish to make a cake calling for milk, and you are out 
of it, you can still make the cake and use water instead. 

A hrni. — For cakes, p»uddings, bread, etc., skimmed milk an- 
swers as well as rich milk, and the cream can be saved and used for 
coffee, desserts, etc. 

Spices for cake should be of the best quality. 
Cinnamon, cloves, allspice, and pepper are 
much nicer if bought in bulk, and freshly 
ground at home, when needed. 

Cinnamon. — This is the inner bark of a tree, a spe- 
cies of the laurel family which grows to the height of 20 
or SO feet, and is found in Ceylon, Java, etc. " Clove 
OiV is distilled from the leaf. Cinnamon contains a fra- 
grant essential oil. It is best to buy it in the stick 
or roll; pound it in a mortar, and sift it fine for use. 

Fruit is best prepared the day before. It should be dry when 
used. Leave out a little flour for the purpose and roll the fruit in it 
just before putting it in the cake. With raised cake spread fruit 
lightly on top, pressing it in a little, but do not beat it in or it will 
sink to the bottom. 

Almonds should be blanched by being put into boiling water; 
leave a few minutes and then rub off the skin; then throw into cold 
water to preserve their color. If they are pounded, a little white of 
egg or water should be added every 2 or B minutes to prevent their 
oiling. Or cut them up and roll with a rolling pin on a table or 
marble slab, spreading a little sugar on first. If not pounded or 
rolled they should be cut into thin slicess or divided lengthwise. To 
shred almonds, cut them with a sharp knife into fine strips length- 
wise, 

Citron should be sliced very thin, and the pieces should not be 
too large. 

A Cocoanut should have the milk drawn out through a hole cut in 
the end; crack it and take the meat out (having previously loosened 




CINNAMON. 



CAKE 849 

it by pounding it all over) and dry for a few hours in a cool open ov- 
en; then grate and use. If any is left it can be kept for several 
weeks, if necessary, by sprinkling it with sugar and keeping it in a 
cool, dry, airy place. 

Currants should be washed in warm water, changing it 2 or 3 
times, and rubbing them well with the hand. Then drain them, 
sjDread out on a cloth, and pick out all bad ones, sticks, grit, etc., 
and dry them in the sun; an oven unless very slow will harden them. 
It is well to prepare several pounds at a time, and keep them in glass 
jars English currants are apt to be "gritty;" they may be' made to 
'■ plumiJ,"" or fill out, by pouring boiling water over them, after which 
dry them. Currants are neither so wholesome nor nutritious as rai- 
sins. 

Dates are prepared by separating them from each other; then put 
them into lukewarm water, shake them about for 2 or 3 minutes, and 
drain. Now take out the stones; this can be done with the fingers as 
a rule, but if they are very hard use a sharp knife. Then rinse them 
very carefully again, and drain them very thoroughly. 

Raisins can be stoned more easily if boiling water is poured over 
them and left on 5 or 6 minutes, as that loosens the seeds. Pick out 
stems and defective raisins. For light fruit cake they may be chop- 
ped, but not too fine. Have them perfectly dry when used, and 
dredge flour over them. 

Baking powder, Cream of Tartar and Soda. — Cake should not 
be made overdight with baking powder. A less quantity is needed, 
in proportion to the flour, than for biscuits, which are made light and 
comjDaratively dry, as they are to be eaten soon after being made, but 
cake is made to keep for some time — a week or longer. It should of 
course be light, hut fine- grained and moist. The rule for biscuits is 
about 3 rounded teaspoons of bakrng powder to a quart of flour; for 
that amount of flour in cake, made with eggs properly beaten, 1 tea- 
spoon of baking powder is sufficient. The baking i^owder or cream 
of tartar should be well sifted into the flour before mixing that into 
either cake, biscuits, or bread.. Dissolve the soda into a little milk 
or water. 

Cream of tartar and soda can be used instead of baking powder 
in any recipe, or irice versa, but as all baking powder contains some 
starch or flour to keep it dry (see our recii^e for making it) it is not 
quite as strong as the pure cream of tartar and soda, so that about ^ 
more baking powder is required than of the cream of tartar and soda 
combined. The usual proi^ortion for 1 quart of flour for bread or 
biscuit is 1 teaspoon soda and 2 teaspoons cream of tartar; or 3 



350 CAKE 

rounded teaspoons baking powder; and a convenient rule is 1 level 
teaspoon of baking powder to 1 cup flour, but cake, when 'ightened 
with eggs, requires less than ^ of this. 

In making rich fruit cakes eggs alone are used, without any bak- 
ing powder, or cream of tartar and soda, to make them light. 

The 2 alkalies used in cooking are soda and potash or their derivatives. Pot- 
ash is found in all fertile soils, and is essential to plants, and all land plants when 
burned yield potash. When calcined and purified it yields j)eaylush. Saleratus is 
a kind of pearlash derived by subjecting it to the action of carbonic acid gas. 
The potash compounds are now little used. 

Soda is obtained from sea^salt or marine plants. It is called sahsoila when 
unpurified. It is combined with 1 part of carbonic acid to form the carbonate, 
and 2 parts of carbonic acid to form the bicarbonate of soda, or the baking soda 
ordinarily used. Soda should always be thoroughly pulverized before it is meas- 
ured so that there are no lumps in it. Strong alkalies are powerful poisons and 
must be counteracted or rendfered inert before entering the system. This is done 
by the acids used. The too free use of soda or saleratus in cooking is injurious to 
the health and is recognized and commented on by good medical authorities. 
The alkali particularly affects the coatings of the stomach and bowels and causes 
indigestion and bowel complaint, sometimes ending in acute inflammation. 
Children are often injured by it. Bicarbonate of soda contains twice as much 
carbonic acid as common washing soda, but if it is dissolved in hot water, or 
heated in any way, this extra gas is driven off, and it is at once reduced to the 
level of common washing soda. For this reason soda should never be dissolved in 
hot water; tepid water may be used, but cold water or milk is best. It will dis- 
solve as thoroughly in cold as in hot water, although not as quickly; or it can be 
thoroughly mixed and sifted into part of the flour, and will then be incorporated 
so as to leave no yellow spots. If used in molasses, dissolve it in as little water as 
possible, beat it into the molasses till it foams, and then add to the other materials 
at once. 

Cream cf Tartar is an acid obtained from crude tartar, or argol, a substance 
deposited on the sides of casks during the fermentation of wine. It is purified 
by using charcoal and clay, and crystalized. When cream of tartar unites with the 
bicarbonate of soda, carbonic acid gas is liberated, and the minute bubbles per- 
meate the mass of dough and make it rise, while the residue forms a salt known as 
Rochelle salt. This is a well-known cathartic, but is not harmful in the small 
quantities thus formed. The acid and the alkali should, however, be so propor- 
tioned as to neutralize each other. They tlien form what is known as a neutral 
salt. If the acid is in excess the salt will be acid, and if the alkali is in excess it 
will be alkaline. Experiment shows that 1 level teaspoon of soda is neutralized 
by 2 full teaspoons of cream of tartar — that is, by a little more than 2 parts of 
cream of tartar to 1 part of soda; and these are the proportions in which they 
should be used. 

Muriatic acid is sometimes used instead of cream of tartar, and when acted on 
by soda it leaves a residue of common salt, which is unobjectionable. It acts so 
quickly, however, that it is not adapted to domestic use, as much of the gas will 
escape before it performs any work, but it is sometimes used in bakeries. 

W'he'i so^lr milk is used, the lactic acid it contains acts on the soda the same as 
the acid cream of tartar, and so liberates gas. The proportion to use is 1 teaspoon 



CAKE 351 

of soda to 1 pint of sour milk, or 3^ teaspoon to a cup, but it should be remem- 
bered that very sour milk contains more acid than that which is just turning, so 
that some judgment is needed in guaging the proportions. In recipes where 
molasses is used, milk which tastes or smells sour, but is not (hick, can be used as 
"sweet milk. 

Molasses furnishes another acitl whicli answers the same purpose as that of the 
Bour milk and cream of tartar, acting on the alkaline soda and liberating carbonic 
acid gas. 

HOW TO MIX CAKE — Probably, as many cakes are wasted 
through improper mixing, as by any other cause, unless it is insuffi- 
cient beating. In mixing cakes in which butter is used proceed in 
the following order: 

1. Cream the butter. If it is very cold, warm without melting 
it. (For the method of creaming butter, see " Puddings.") 

2. Add the sugar and beat it thoroughly. If a very large 
amount is used, part may be beaten into the eggs. 

S. Add the seasoning — spices, lemon-juice, flavoring extracts, 
etc., as given in each recipe, and incorporate them well with the but- 
ter and sugar. 

4. Add the beaten yolks of eggs, and beat all well together. 

5. Add the milk. 

6. Add, the flour, which should be already thoroughly mixed 
with the baking powder. Stir it in, a little at a time, or add a little 
flour and milk alternately, stirring continually, and now heat lung 
and vigoroushj to fill it with air and make the cake smooth and 
fine grained. 

7. Add the beaten whites of eggs. 

8. Add the fruit, if used, which should be already dusted with 
flour. Make fruit cakes a little stift'er with flour than those without 
fruit. 

Sift baking powder and cream of tartar into the flour. Usually 
the soda is dissolved in the milk or water, but sometimes it is sifted 
into the flour. 

Beat continuously, from beginning to end of the process. Place 
the dough in the prepared caketins and send to the oven as soon as 
possible, when finished, so that the air which has been beaten in 
(and which, by expanding, makes it light) may not escape. 

Always work cake together with a spoon, if possible, but when a 
large quantity of fruit cake is made, it is necessary to use the hand 
in order to mix it properly. 

For sponge calces (which are those made without butter or short- 
ening) proceed as follows: (1) Beat the yolks. (2) Gradually add 
the sugar and beat well. (3) Add the flavoring and water, if used. 



352 CAKE 

(4) Add the well=beaten whites of eggs. (5) Sift in the flour and 
carefully fold it in. After adding the flour, sponge cakes, unlike 
other cakes, should not be beaten. If beaten like other cake, after 
adding the flour, sponge cake will be tough and unwholesome, but if 
after folding in the flour, the cake is put directly into the oven it will 
be tender and digestible. The lightness depends on the quantity of 
air beaten into the egg. Less beating is required when soda and 
cream of tartar are used, but the cake is not as good. 

Always use an earthen bowl or pan, for mixing cake. Butter 
and sugar, if worked to a cream in tin, is apt to be discolored. Beat 
the eggs with a silver or wooden spoon. As a rule (in cold weather, 
always), pour hot water into the mixing^bowl to warm it; then wipe 
dry. This facilitates the blending of the butter and sugar, and is the 
first operation. 

If a large quantity of cake is to be made, the cook should have 
an assistant; for a small quantity, and if the cook is alone, every- 
thing in the way of ingredients or utensils should be ready at hand 
on the cooking table, so that there will be no delay. Much depends 
on mixing the cake rapidly, and immediately placing it in the oven. 
Those who will bear the above rules in mind can handle any cake, so 
far as the mixing is concerned. 

Beating and Stirring. — There is a good deal of difference between 
beating and stirring. Stirring merely mixes the different ingredi- 
ents together, while beating carries in air and thoroughly distributes 
it through the mass, and in baking, this air expands and makes the 
cake light. Unless the air is well beaten into the dough, no after 
attention will make it light and wholesome. After putting in the 
beaten white of egg, too much subsequent beating will let the air 
escape and so be a detriment. It is heeding, not stirring, which is 
needed throughout the process. 

Cake Baked in Paper. — If there is danger that cake will rise above 
the top of a pan and run out, or if you 
have a large cake and the j)an is too 
small to hold it, the cake can be baked 
in paper as shown in the accompanying 
engraving. Make the paper case out of 
thick glazed paper, coat it thickly with 
butter, put in the cake, and the paper 
will not burn in a moderate oven. 

Cake Pans. — Layer cakes are baked 
in thin cakes in tins made for the pur- 
pose, sometimes called jelly=cake tins. 
Loaf cakes are baked in deep bread tins, cake baked in papeb. 




CAKE 353 

or hoops and large pans made for the purpose Flat loaves are usu- 
ally baked in the old fashioned brick shaped tins and are 1 or 2 
inches in thickness. 

The cake pans (with a few exceptions found among the recipes) 
should be well buttered, and clean, thick manilla or heavy writing 
paper fitted to the bottoms of the pans, and for rich fruit or wedding 
cakes which require baking for hours, 3 or 4 thicknesses will be a 
safe=guard against burning the bottoms of the cakes. Butter well 
the top sheet next the cake. It is not necessary to line the sides and 
ends of the pans if they are well buttered; a knife slipped around the 
cake will easily detach it. 

In baking layer cakes the pans are not usually papered to pre- 
vent them from sticking, but when paper is not used butter the pans 
well, throw in a handful of flour and shake it well over the inside of 
the pan; then drop it, bottom side upward, to remove all the flour 
which does not adhere to the butter. If layer cakes do not easily 
remove from the j)ans, leave them for a few moments bottom side 
upwards, turned on a cloth, and the steam from the cakes will soon 
cause them to drop. If buttered paper is used i^ut it in buttered 
side up, and let it overlap the sides about 1 inch to assist in lifting 
out the cake. 

If a cake pan with a tube in the center is used the cake will 
bake more evenly. Many substitutes are devised by those who are 
without such i3ans, such as a lamp=chimney, glass bottle or paper 
tube. They should be greased, and i)laced in the center of the pan 
before the batter is poured in. Something weighted down is best, 
like a tumbler or bottle filled with sand. 

The Oven and Baking. — While cake is being made there should be 
no other cooking done on the stove, for as success depends very 
much on the baking, the cake maker should constantly watch and 
have absolute control of the fire. Make the fire the first thing, 
and while the oven is heating mix and prepare the cakes. 

In the absence of a thermometer, a few rules are here given for 
testing the heat of the oven,- but as every stove or range bakes a 
little difPerently from others, the cook must learn by practice the 
proper heat required for different kinds of cake (1) Put white 
writing paper in the oven, and if it turns to a dark yellow color 
— not brown — in five minutes, the oven is of the right temperature 
for most cakes. (2) Place a little flour on a tin plate, and set it in 
the oven; if it turns a dark yellow in 5 minutes the heat is right. 
(3) Hold the hand in the oven and count 12. If you cannot do this 
the oven is too hot, 23 



B54 CAKE 

Small cakes require a quick oven when they are first put in, to 
make them rise, but the heat should not be increased after they have 
begun to bake. Large cakes should be put into a more moderate 
oven, in order that they may be well done in the middle before 
they are over^done on the outside. 

Cake will not be light if the oven is too cold at first, or if it is 
too hot and bakes the cake too quickly. The oven is too hot if it 
browns the cake before it rises. Cake should first rise at the edge, 
the middle should come up, crack a little, then settle back and the 
cracks close. Too much flour has been used if it rises in the cen- 
ter the most, cracks, and remains up. Most loaf cakes require an 
oven about the same as bread, but layer cakes are best baked quickly 
and need a brisk fire. 

For all cake the temperature should be even. For this reason 
avoid stirring the fire or crowding on heat during the process 
of baking, and if the fire is replenished add a little fuel at a time to 
keep the heat uniform. If the oven is too hot, slip one of the 
stove lids partially off for a little while, thus checking the draft. 

If the oven bakes too rapidly on the bottom, an inverted drip- 
ping-pan may be placed in it, or if required, the bottom of the 
oven can be covered with hard=baked bricks. If it bakes too 
rajDidly at the top, placing a thin hard=wood board, or a thick piece 
of paste-board on the top grate, over the cakes, is much better than 
covering the cakes with paper, which is likely to interfere with the 
crust as the cake rises. Open the oven as little as possible, and 
do not let a draft of cold air strike the cakes or they will fall, and 
do not move them till they " set " or brown a little on top. 

Thin cakes (flat loaves) may be turned in the oven, if neces- 
sary, after baking 10 minutes; thick loaves of rich cake should not 
be moved in less than 20 or 30 minutes, and then the turning should 
be very gently done or they may be heavy in the center. The old 
'' test " for cake was to insert a piece of clean broom^straw or a fine 
knitting-needle free from rust, and if the cake was done it would 
come out free from dough; another test is to hold the cake to the 
ear and listen closely; if done it will be silent; if there is the least 
noise return it at once to the oven. Another sign is its settling down 
a little and shrinking from the pan. 

Fruit Cake. — It is better to steam fruit cake 3 hours and then 
transfer it quickly to a well heated oven and bake 1 hour, than to 
rely on baking alone. It is also a good j)lan to allow fruit cakes to 
stay in the oven until the fire dies down, after they are baked, plan- 
ning to bake them the latter part of the day, and leaving until even- 
ing. 



CAKE 355 

Gingerbread. — Mix soft gingerbreads as soft as they can be han- 
dled, and keep the molding board well floured to prevent the dough 
from sticking. Use New Orleans molasses as we explained for other 
cake. Watch the oven closely, as molasses cakes burn more easily 
than others. If, before rolling out the dough, it gets too stiff, set it 
before the fire. Lemon or orange flavor can be added when desired, 
and many think it an improvement, and the same with raisins, fruit, 
etc. Ginger can be replaced by other spices, like cinnamon and 
nutmeg, by those who prefer their flavor to ginger. Yolks of eggs 
imjjrove gingerbread even when not prescribed in the recipe; and 
yolks left from other cooking can be worked into gingerbread to 
advantage; 2 yolks equal one egg, and can be so used for this 
purpose. 

EXTRACTS AND FLAVORINGS. 

These are often adulterated. Many of them can be easily 
and successfully made at home, and much cheaper than to 
buy them, wdiile their purity will then be assured. In making 
extracts use deodorized alcohol always. If the oils used are not 
pure and fresh they will spoil the extract by giving it a tur- 
pentine taste. If a little extract is dropped on anything after it is 
baked, less will be needed, because heat partially destroys the 
flavor. It is therefore better not to add extracts to anything while 
hot. 

Essence of Allspice.— Add to a wine-glass of 

strong spirits, 1 drachm of the oil of allsijice. 

This is used, 2 or 3 drops at a time, for puddings, 

soups, etc. 

Allspice is the popular name given to Pimento or 
Jamaica peppek. It is the berry of a tree (the Pimenta Offi- 
cinalis) -which grows in the West ladies and South America, 
and attains a height of 15 to 20 feet. The berries are 
picked green and dried in the sun, when they become bhick. 
Pimento contains about 4 per cent of an aromatic pungent 
oil much like cloves. It is a mild, agreeable and innocent 

SPICP' ALLSPICE. 

Almond.— Crush 1 cup of the kernels of peach stone, and soak 
them in 2 cups alcohol. In using, allow 1 teaspoon of the extra'ct 
for 1 quart of cake dough or custard. The flavor is very much like 
almonds. 

Bedford Flavoring.— Put into a bottle 3 drops of peppermint, the 
same of oil of rose, and ^ cup deodorized alcohol; shake well, and 
keep corked. 

Essence of Celery.— Soak for 12 or 14 days ^ oz. of celery seeds in 




356 CAKE 

^ pint of brandy. A few drops will flavor a pint of soup equal to a 
head of celery. 

Cherry and Plum. — The kernels of cherry and plum stones, steeped 
in brandy, make a nice flavoring liquid for tarts, etc. 

Citronelle. — Take the grated rind of 1 orange and 1 lemon peel, 
rub them to a pulj), and add ^ of a nutmeg grated; add 1 cup water 
and 6 whole cloves, and gently boil 2 or 3 minutes; then strain, and 
add 1 cup sugar, and boil to a thin syrup; keep it in a bottle. 

Coffee. — Infuse ^ lb. of the best ground and roasted coffee, in 1 
pint alcohol. 

Curacoa. — This is nothing but a tincture of the Curacoa orange 
peel, sweetened and flavored with essential oils. Orange juice can 
be used in its place for flavorings; or orange essence, tinctured with 
cinnamon, mace or cloves. 

Laural Flavoring. — Take an earthen bowl, and break into it 7 or 8 
bay leaves, and add 4 cloves and -J of a nutmeg grated; then add ^ 
cup of water and steep for a few minutes on the stove in a basin of 
hot water, and covered with a saucer; now strain, add 2 tablspoons 
of sugar, and when cold add -| cup deodorized alcohol. Keep 
bottled for use. 

Lemon. — Put lemon i>ee\, cut into small pieces, into a bottle, add 
alcohol enough to cover it, cork, and set it in a warm place 5 or 6 
days, until the alcohol extracts the essential oil from the rind. It 
can be strengthened by adding oil of lemon, (about ^ oz. to an 8 oz. 
bottle) or weakened by adding more alcohol. It is easily made, 
cheap and good. 

Orange extract is made in the same way as the lemon. 

Maraschino. — This, when genuine, is made from the kernel of the 
Marasca cherry, which is grown only in Dalmatia. It is often made 
from the oil of bitter almonds, blended with oils of cinnamon, rose= 
water, etc. A similar flavor can be made as follows: Infuse^ lb. 
of kernels of cherries (bruised), in 1 quart of alcohol for 6 days; 
add 1 drachm of oil of maraschino, and 1 lb. of white sugar, made 
into a syrup by boiling it in f quart of water down to a pint; strain 
through a fine sieve, and bottle for use. Make | or ^ the quantity if 
desired. 

Noyau. — This is made from white brandy and bruised bitter al- 
monds. It contains a large proportion of prussic acid derived 
from the bitter almonds. The best comes from Martinique, but it 
is expensive and often imitated. Make thus: Infuse some fresh 
young peach leaves in whisky for a couple of days; then strain the 
infusion and mix with clarified syrup when cold. With age it 
will nearly equal the genuine. 



CAKE 357 

Ratafias. — This is the name given to spirituous liquors flavored 
with the kernels of various fruits, such as peaches, cherries, apricots, 
etc., used as flavoring for sweet dishes. Although delicious when 
used sparingly, they are unpleasant or even poisonous if used to 
excess. Peach or apricot leaves infused in alcohol can be used in- 
stead of ratafia for flavoring pudding. The ratafia cakes are fla- 
vored with almonds. 

Cherry Ratafia. — Take 1 lb. Morrella cherries with the kernels 
bruised, 1 pint proof spirits, ^Ib. sugar; let it soak 2 weeks, and 
strain through flannel. 

Currant Ratafia. — Take ^ cup black currant juice, 2 grains cin- 
namon, 2 grains cloves, 2 grains peach kernels, 1 pint brandy, 6 oz. 
white sugar; let stand 2 weeks, and strain through flannel. 

Rose Extract. — Let rose leaves soak in alcohol till the essential 
oil is extracted (about a week); then strain, and add about ^ drachm 
of otto of roses to 1 pint of the extract. 

Tea Flavoring. — Take about 4 teaspoons of the best black tea, 
crush it and put it into a bowl (it is a good plan to mix 2 or 3 differ- 
ent kinds); pour on about | cup of freshly boiled water, and boiling 
hot; cover it with a saucer, and let it steep 10 or 12 minutes; then 
strain through cloth and use. 

Vanilla. — Cut up 5 or 6 vanilla beans, pods and all, put them in 
a pint bottle, fill with alcohol, and in a few days the alcohol will 
extract the essential oil. Equal j^arts of vanilla and tonka beans 
can be used, and a very good flavoring extract produced. The tonka 
beans should be soaked in warm water till the skin can be rubbed 
off, and then both should be cut in small j)ieces. 

Vanilla sugar is prepared by cutting up the pods, putting 
them in a mortar with 10 or 12 times as much sugar, and i3ounding 
fine; then pass it through a fine sieve, pound again if necessary, and 
keep in a bottle tightly corked. Or the beans 
can be cut up, put in a jar, covered with the 
sugar, and covered tightly. Use the sugar as 
needed, adding more as long as the beans fla- 
vor it. 

Syrup of vanilla is simple syrup flavored 
with essence of vanilla. 

The vanilla bean is the fruit of a plant (an orchid) 
indigenous to Mexico, Peru. Brazil, etc. The fruit is cyl- tonka bean. 

indrical in shape and is filled with small, black, oily 

seeds. Its odor is due to the presence of benzoic acid, and is so powerful that it is 
said to intoxicate those who climb the trees to gather it. Vanilla is not suitable 
for flavoring food for invalids because of its medicinal qualities. It is a ^entle 
stimulant and promotes digestion. The Mexican beans are the best. 




858 CAKE 

The tonka beans are the seeds of the Diptervs oOorata, whic'i is a native of 
Guiana. The odor comes from a volatile oil which they contain. 

Rose Water. — This can be iDrepared by putting- a large pinch of 
carbonate of magnesia, and 4 drops of kissanlik otto of rose into 2 
pints of pure water; then filter through fine muslin or filter paper. 
If the otto is good it will make a fine rose water, and will keep in- 
definitely. 

Orange Flower Water. — This can be prepared the same way, using 
4 droias of oil of neroli Begarade, instead of the otto of rose. 

To Grate Lemon Peel. — Lemon peel gives a different flavor from 
any extract. There is a right and wrong way to grate it. The 
flavor comes from an essential oil found only in the yellow rind at 
the surface. The white part underneath is bitter, contains no lemon 
flavor, will curdle milk or cream, and is objectionable. Therefore 
grate a lemon carefully, aiming to remove all the yellow surface, hut 
no more. Begin at the end, turn the lemon round as it is grated, 
and work evenly, and it can be easily and smoothly done. This 
gives the zest as it is called. 

Orange peel can be grated the same way. Either can be used 
for sherbets, cakes, puddings, etc. They can be kept on hand for 
use by mixing them with powdered sugar, (use 4 parts sugar to 1 
part grated peel) and keep in tightly corked bottes. 

COOKING IN HIGH ALTITUDES. 

In all high altitudes the rule is to use less butter and sugar, and 
more flour and eggs. If too much butter is used in such regions the 
cake will fall, so that very rich cakes cannot be made there. The 
greater the elevation the more difficulty is experienced. Cakes 
having no butter like sponge cake, are easily made in high altitudes. 
(See also our " Denver cake.") The filling for layer cakes can be 
made quite rich in such regions, if desired. 

The reason for the foregoing rule appears to be this: The object in beating 
eggs is to fill them with air, which the tenacious albumen of the egg holds, and 
carries into the cake, but in high altitudes the air thus incorporated is much 
lighter than at sea level, and the cake will fall unless it is "held up," so to speak, 
by a stiff batter; hence the rule is to "Double the flour, or divide the egg, and use 
less butter." lb is found in these regions that -powdered sugar works better than 
granulated. This rare atmosphere is very dry, and quickly dries cake and bread. 
These should be kept in a close box, in which vessels of water are placed to keep 
the air moist. Owing to this dryness of the air, however, meats will keep much 
longer than in damper climates. The effect of light air on boiling water we 
spoke of in explaining about boiling meat. It is difficult to cook anything by 
boiling at all, above what is known as " the timber line." Eggs must be boiled 
10 minutes to even be "soft" on Pike's Peak. 



LAYER CAKES 359 

LAYER CAKES. 

Let layer cakes cool on some flat surface, like an inverted jelly- 
tin, rather than on an uneven surface, like a plate. An inverted jelly- 
tin also makes a good base on which to build up a jelly cake, and it 
should be left there till cold. Those with a little experience can 
vary the fillings for jelly cakes and make many attractive combina- 
tions, but the novice will best adhere to her recipes closely. 

For Time to Bake see " Loaf Cakes." 

FILLINGS. 

Layer cakes, when analyzed, will be found to consist of a cake 
baked in layers (different recipes being often quite similar) and then 
various fillings are used. We give an exceptionally full list of differ- 
ent fillings which are suitable for use with any good recipe for layer 
cake, and many varieties are thus easily produced. 

ALMOND FILLING — LTse 1 cup thick sour jam, 1 teaspoon 
vanilla, 1 lb. almonds, blanched and chopped fine, and sugar to taste 
or make sweet. Or, (2) Stir blanched and chopped almonds into 
whipped or mock whipped cream, and spread between layers. Or, 
(3) Mix chopped almonds into the icing filling, given below. 

APPLE FILLING.— Cook 2 large apples until soft; then add 1 
cup sugar, the well beaten yolk of 1 egg, and the juice and grated 
rind of 1 lemon; cook all, about 5 minutes, and spread between the 
layers while warm. Or, (2) Mix slices of apple in the icing filling 
given below. 

DRIED FRUIT FILLING.— To 4 cups of the best evaporated ap- 
ples, take 3 cuj)S of nice dried raspberries, and let them cook slowly 
for 3 or 4 hours; then work through the colander and add 2 cups of 
sugar (or more, if preferred) and flavor with vanilla. This is nice for 
layer cake, short cake, and with meats. 

BANANA FILLING — Mash 6 bananas, add the juice of 1 lem- 
on, and 3 tablespoons of sugar — more if liked. Or, (2) Mix sliced 
bananas with the whipped cream or icing fillings given below. 

CARAMEL FILLING. — Take 1 cup granulated sugar, 1 cup 
brown sugar, ^ tablespoon butter (scant,) ^ cup sweet milk; boil 
about 7 minutes; add 1 teaspoon vanilla, beat, and spread on cake. 

CHOCOLATE FILLING — Into ^ cup milk scrape 2 squares of 
chocolate and add 3 tablespoons sugar (heaping); boil till thick, and 
spread between layers and on top. 



360 LAYER CAKES 

CREAM CHOCOLATE FILLING.— Take 1| cups of confection- 
er's sugar and just enough sweet cream to moisten; mix well, set the 
vessel containing it in a kettle of hot water and let it come to the 
boiling point; then add the whites of 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth, 
also enough grated chocolate to give a light or dark color, as desired. 
Beat until cool and stiff; then add a teaspoon of vanilla; spread be- 
tween and on the top of layer cakes. 

COCOANUT FILLING.— Use either a plain or boiled icing, and 
stir in either grated or dessicated cocoanut. The cocoanut is some- 
times soaked in milk for ^ hour before using it. 

CRANBERRY FILLING — On each layer spread rich cranberry 
jelley, and cover it with white icing. 

CREAM FILLING — One pint of sweet milk; 1 small cup of 
sugar; put it over the fire, in a double boiler, or pail set in a kettle of 
boiling water; just before it boils add 2 welhbeaten eggs, a pinch of 
salt, and 2 tablespoons of corn=starch dissolved in a little cold milk; 
stir until it thickens. When cool, flavor with vanilla or lemon. 

WHIPPED CREAM FILLING.— Whip 1 cup sweet cream to a 
stiff froth ; sweeten and flavor to taste, and spread on. The cream 
will froth easier if put on ice | hour before whipping. 

MOCK WHIPPED CREAM.— Take 1 large sour apple, peel- 
ed and grated, 1 cup white sugar, white of 1 egg; beat all together 
a long time. Flavor with vanilla. Mix the apple with the sugar as 
soon as possible after grating, or it will turn dark. Use like whipped 
cream. Delicious. Try it. 

CUSTARD FILLING.- Spread good custard between layers, hav- 
ing it slightly cool before spreading it on. 

DATE FILLING.— Take 2 lbs. dates, remove the seeds, chop 
fine and add cold water enough to make a smooth paste. 
Figs may be prepared the same way. 

FIG FILLING (1) Use 1 cup chopped figs, | cup hot water, 1 

small cup powdered sugar; cook till soft, and spread between layers. 
Or (2) Stir chopped figs into the icing filling given below. 

ICING FILLING.— Beat together whites of B eggs and 1 cup 
pulverized sugar; add ^ teaspoon of any flavoring desired. This can 
be varied by stirring in any fruit desired, such as stoned and seeded 
raisins, chopped almonds, bananas, berries, figs, dates, etc. 

BOILED ICING FILLING.— Put a little water on 2 cups of gran- 
ulated sugar — just enough to dissolve it; let it boil until it threads 



LAYER CAKES 361 

from a spoon ; pour it slowly on the well=beaten whites of 2 eggs, 
beating all the time, until thick enough to spread on the cake; add a 
teaspoon of any flavoring desired. As it cools any kind of fruit can 
be stirred in if desired, 

JELLY FILLING. — Fruit jelly, jam or marmalade of almost 
any kind is nice spread between layers of cake. Add a layer of 
icing also if desired. 

LEMON FILLING. — Use 1 lemon (juice and gratM rind), 1 egg, 
^ cup sugar, 1 tablespoon of water, butter size of walnut. Beat all 
together, set on stove and let boil up a minute. 

LEMON HONEY FILLING.— Use 1 lb. loaf sugar, 2 whole eggs, 
yolks of 8 eggs, ^ lb. butter, juice of 6 lemons, grated rind of 2 lem- 
ons. Put the sugar, lemon and butter into a sauce^pan, and melt 
over a gentle fire; when all is dissolved stir in the eggs, which have 
been well beaten; stir rapidly until it is as thick as honey. Spread 
this between the layers of cake. Set aside the remainder in a closely 
covered vessel for future use. 

MAPLE FILLING — Take 1 cup maple sugar, 1 cup white sugar 
and ^ cup of water; boil until it will form in stiff drops when dropped 
into cold water; cool until slightly warm, and add whites of 2 eggs, 
beaten stiff; spread between the layers of cake. 

MOCK MAPLE FILLING — Take 2 cups good brown sugar, | 
cup sweet cream, butter size of large egg; boil together carefully 12 
minutes; strain through a hair sieve or double cheese cloth. Flavor 
with 1| teaspoons vanilla. Let it cool and thicken before spreading 
on cake. 

NUT FILLING — Take 1 cup sugar, 1 cup thick cream, (sweet 
or sour) 1 cup hickory nuts chopped fine; boil all together until 
thick. Any other oily nuts can be used instead, such as peanuts, 
almonds or butternuts. 

ORANGE FILLING. — Take the juice and grated rind of 2 oran- 
ges, stir in as much powdered sugar as the liquid will take up, and 
spread it between layers. This may be varied by stirring in des- 
sicated cocoanut with the sugar, and then sprinkling dry cocoanut 
on top of the cake. Or use the whites of 2 eggs beaten stiff, grated 
rind and juice of 1 orange made thick with pulverized sugar; beat 
all well together and use. Or mix slices of orange into the icing 
filling given above. 

ORANGE FILLING No. 2 — One cup sugar wet with 3 table- 
spoons of orange juice (enough drops from the oranges as you slice 



362 LAYER CAKES 

them, if not, use water); 1 tablespoon of butter. Simmer this on the 
stove until a nice syrup, and when boiling add 2 beaten eggs; remove 
from stove and stir briskly. When cold add orange or lemon flavor 
and the sliced fruit, and spread between the layers. 

ORANGE AND COCOANUT FILLING Beat 1 egg stiff, add 1 

cup sweet cream, 1 cup grated cocoanut, juice and ^ the grated rind 
of 1 large orange and ^ cup sugar. Spread it between layers and 
on top of cal^e, and sprinkle on fresh grated cocoanut. 

PEACH OR FRUIT CREAM FILLING— Cut peaches into thin 
slices, or chojo them, and prepare cream by whipping and sweeten- 
ing. Put a layer of peaches between the layers of cake, and pour 
the cream over each layer and over the top. 

Bananas, straioberries, and other fruit may be used the same 
way, mashing the strawberries when used, and strewing them thick 
with powdered sugar. 

PINEAPPLE FILLING — Chop 1 pineapple fine and cook it 
with 2 ifs weight of sugar; while hot, add ^ box of gelatine (having 
had that soaking in cold water for 1 hour before.) It should be 
thick enough not to run. Spread thickly on all layers but the toi3 
one. 

PLUM FILLING. — Stew plums till soft, remove pits and skins, 
and pass the jDulp through a coarse sieve. Spread between layers. 
Or (2) stew, chop, and stir the plums into the icing filling given 
above. 

PRUNE FILLING. — Stew, stone and chop the prunes and stir 
them into the icing filling given above. 

RAISIN FILLING. — Seed and chop 1 cup of raisins, and stir 
them into the icing filling given above. Or, use equal amounts of 
raisins and blanched almonds (chopped) if desired. 

RAISIN FILLING No. 2.— Take 1 cup maple syrup, add a little 
vinegar to prevent its graining, boil till it threads from a spoon; then 
add 1 cup raisins, seeded and chox3ped, and stir till cold. 

RHUBARB FILLING.— Yolks of 2 eggs, beaten, |- cup sugar, i 
cup butter, h cup rhubarb juice, strained and sweetened; set the dish 
containing this mixture in a pan of hot water, and stir continually 
until the paste is smooth and thick. Then spread between layers of 
cake. 

STRAWBERRY FILLING.— Take white of 1 egg, beat till very 



LAYER CAKES 363 

stiff, add I cup of sugar and beat again; then add ^ cup fresh 
strawberries bruised to a pulp, and beat till stifp. 

STRAWBERRY AND RASPBERRY FILLING.— Spread icing 
over each layer, and cover the icing with choice fresh strawberries or 
rasberries, or stir the fruit into the icing before spreading it on. 

TUTTI F-RUTTI FILLING — Make a soft icing with whites of 2 
eggs, well beaten, and pulverized sugar. Flavor with vanilla or 
lemon if desired. Then stir into it -| cup best raisins, seeded and 
choiDped fine, 2 tablespoons currants, washed, dried and picked, 2 
tablespoons orange marmalade. Enough for 2 good sized layer 
cakes. Other combinations of fruit can be easily devised by the 
ingenious cook, and stirred into a soft icing. Almonds (chopped), 
raisins (seeded and chopped) and cocoanut make a nice combina- 
tion. So do figs, almonds and citron. 

LAYER CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 eggs. 

1 cup sugar (heaping). 2 cups flour, 
i cup milk. 2 level teaspoons baking 

powder. 

If flavoring is desired use 1 teaspoon of lemon, 

vanilla or other extract. Bake in layers. This recipe 

can be varied by using ^ to 1 cup of corn=starch in 

place of that much flour, and 4 to 6 eggs could be used 

if preferred; also rich cream instead of milk. Use any 

of the proceeding fillings desired. 

1-2-3 CAKE. 

i cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

1 cup milk. . 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

2 cups sugar. Any flavoring desired. 

3 eggs. Bake in layers. 

Filling. — Use 1 cup milk; 2 eggs; i cup sugar; 
lump of butter the size of a large hickory nut; any fla- 
voring desired. Bring the milk to a boiL; thicken the 
egg with flour and add to the boiling milk. When off 
the fire stir in 1 cup cocoanut. Also sprinkle cocoanut 
over the top of cake when it is done. 



364 LAYEK CAKES 

ALMOND CAKE. 

2 cups butter. 3 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 4 cups flour. 

1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Bake in layers and use the almond filling given 
among our fillings. 

APPLE JELLY CAKE. 

2 tablespoons butter. 1 egg. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sweet milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Bake in layers, and use the apple filling given 
among the previous fillings. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE No. L 

i cup butter. 4 eggs. 

2 cups powdered sugar. 2 cups flour (well filled). 

i cup sweet milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Divide into 3 parts and bake 2 layers as mixed. 

Into the third part mix h cup grated chocolate and 

bake. For the icing, boil 1 cup white sugar and 3 

spoonfuls water till it ropes; add the white of an egg 

and beat together until white. Ice each layer, putting 

the dark layer in the center, and ice the top. 

BEATEN CREAM CAKE. 

i cup butter. 3 whites of eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2i cups flour. 

I cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Bake in 3 layers and put together with thick sweet 

cream beaten with a little pulverized sugar. Or use 

the '' mock whipped cream " given among the fillings. 

CHEAP CREAM CAKE. 

1 tablespoon butter. 1 egg. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

Add 1 teaspoon of any flavoring and bake in lay- 
ers. Use the cream filling given among our fillings. 



LAYER CAKES 365 

CHOCOLATE CAKE No. 2. 

i cup butter. 2 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour, 

i cup sweet milk. li teaspoons baking powder. 

Bake in layers. 

Chocolate Cream For Filling. — Take i cup milk, 

yolk of 1 egg^ i cup chocolate, 1 teaspoon vanilla; 

sweeten to taste; boil until thick as jelly. Spread 

between layers when cold. 

COCOANUT CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 10 whites of eggs. 

2 cups sugar. 31 cups flour. 

1 cup sweet milk. 21 teaspoons baking powder. 

Filling. — Whites of 2 eggs beaten stiff and sugar 

enough added to keep it from running; spread it on 

layers, and sprinkle cocoanut between layers and on 

top of cake. 

COCOANUT CAKE No. 2. 

i cup butter. i cup corn=starch. 

li cups sugar. li cups flour. 

i cup water. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 

6 whites of eggs. h teaspoon soda. 

Bake in layer tins. Then take the whites of 3 eggs 
and beat to a froth with 6 tablespoons of sugar and 1 
cup grated cocoanut. Use it for both filling and frost- 
ing. 

CREAM CAKE. 
1 cup sugar. H cups flour. 

3 eggs. 2 small teaspoons baking 
3 tablespoons water. powder. 

Bake in 4 jelly tins, and when done spread the lay- 
ers with the cream filling given among ' our fillings. 
Do not spread on the filling till the cake is cold. If 
preferred it can be baked in 2 ordinary pie tins and 
split open when cold. 



366 LAYEK CAKES 

CUSTARD CAKE. 

1 cup sugar. H cups flour. 

3 eggs, beaten separate. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

2 tablespoons cold water Flavor to taste, 
added to the beaten 

whites. 

Bake in 2 tins in a hot oven; split when hot, and 
spread with custard. 

DATE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

2 cups sugar. 3 cups flour. 

1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

5 eggs. 

Bake in 5 layers, and use the date filling given 

among our fillings. 

DENVER CAKE. 

i cup butter. 1 cup sweet milk. 

li cups sugar. 3 cups sifted flour. 

6 eggs. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

This cake must be well beaten. It will make 5 

layers. Use any filling desired. It can be made in 

high altitudes. 

ECONOMICAL LAYER CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 3 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 tablespoon corn=starch 

made smooth in 
1 cup sweet milk. 

Bake in thin sheets. Use cream, cocoanut, jelly or 

any filling desired. 

FIG LAYER CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour (sifted). 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

4 large or 5 small eggs. 1 teasjpoon vannilla. 
i cup milk. 

Bake in 4 layers. When cold spread on our " Fig 

Filling, No. 1." 



LAYEK CAKES 367 

IROQUOIS CAKE. 

h cup butter. H cups flour. 

1 cup powdered sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder 

3 whites of eggs. ( scant). 

i cup milk. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 

Bake in 2 tins, and use the '' icing filling " given 

among our fillings. 

JELLY CAKE. 

i cup butter. i cup milk. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 

3 eggs. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 teaspoon of any flavoring. 

Bake in layers. Spread jelly between layers for 
filling. 

PEACH CAKE. 

Bake sponge cake in 3 layers as for jelly cake; take 
fine ripe peaches, chop fine or slice thin. Between 
layers and on top put a layer of the peaches and cover 
them with either the whipped cream or mock whipped 
cream given among our fillings. Eat soon after pre- 
paring it, 

ROCHESTER JELLY CAKE. 

LIGHT PAKT. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups white sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
6 whites of eggs. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 

1 cup sweet milk. Bake in 3 layers. 

DARK PART. 

i cup butter. 2 cups seeded raisins:^ 

1 cup brown sugar. ' i cup citron (chopped fine). 

i cup molasses. i teaspoon cloves. 

1 egg. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 

2 cups flour. i nutmeg, grated. 

i teaspoon soda dissolved 1 teaspoon lemon extract, 
in i cup coffee. Bake in 2 layers. 

Put light and dark parts alternately, spreading 

jelly between the layers. Frost the top. 



368 LAYEK CAKES 

ROLLED JELLY CAKE. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup Hour (heaping). 

3 eggs. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

2 tablespoons milk. i teaspoon lemon extract. 

Bake in a long tin, and while warm spread with 
jelly or jam (raspberry is best) and roll thus; spread a 
towel on the table, lay on the cake, and roll, keeping 
towel over it to prevent its cracking. Do not take off 
towel until the cake is cold. 

MINNEHAHA CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
1 cup milk. Flavor with lemon. 

8 whites of eggs. 

FiUiug.—Use 1 cup blanched almonds, and 2 cups 
seeded raisins, chopped fine; mix these with a boiled 
frosting, and flavor with lemon. Put blanched almonds 
in halves in the frosting on top. 

NUT LAYER CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. H teaspoons baking pow- 
i cup sweet milk. der. 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

Use the '^ Nut Filling " given among our fillings. 
ORANGE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder, 
i cup water. 1 orange, juice and grated 
5 yolks of eggs. rind. 

3 whites of eggs. 

Use the orange filling No. 1 given among our fill- 
ings. 

CORN^^STARCH JELLY CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 1 cup flour. 

2 cups sugar. 7 whites of eggs. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 

1 cup corn=starch. i teaspoon soda. 

Bake in layers. Spread any good jelly between 
layers for filling. 



LAYEK CAKES 369 

OKIEXTAL CAKE. 

WHITE AND PINK LAYERS. 

i cup butter. i cup corn=starch. 

1 cup granulated sugar. li cups flour. 

i cup milk. 1 heaping teaspoon baking 

3 whites of eggs. powder. 

Beat butter and sugar to cream, add milk and 
corn=starch, first stirring them together, then the flour 
and baking powder, and last the whites of eggs beaten 
light. Divide the mixture in tw^o, and into i put as 
much pink coloring as you like, the object being to form 
different colored layers. 

YELLOW AND BROWN PARTS. 

h cup butter. 1 whole egg. 

1 cup sugar. If cups flour. 

i cup sweet milk. H teaspoons baking powder. 

4 yolks of eggs, beaten 
light. 

After mixing divide into 2 parts, and to 1 part add: 

1 oz. grated chocolate, 1 tablespoon of water, 3 tea- 
spoons of sugar and h teaspoon of vanilla, which should 
be stirred until smooth over a hot fire. Bake all the 
layers in jelly=pans in a moderate oven — it should bake 
in about 20 minutes. 

For filling use 1 cup powdered sugar, and whites of 

2 eggs, beaten light. Use the brown cake for the bot- 
tom layer, spread over it a thin coating of the filling 
and cover with a layer of thin slices of figs placed close 
together; next the yellow cake with icing and sliced 
oranges free from seeds and rind; next, whites with 
icing and cocoanut; finish with the pinkJayer spread 
with a firm, white icing, decorated with almonds and 
candies. It is best eaten fresh. This makes a deli- 
cious cake. If desired, you can leave out all the filling 
except the icing. 24 



370 LAYER CAKES - 

POLONAISE CAKE. 

1 cup butter (scant). 3 cups flour. 

2 cups pulverized sugar. H teaspoons baking powder. 
1 cup milk. Bake in 4 layers. 

7 whites of eggs. 

Filling. — Use 3 cups pulverized sugar boiled in a 
little water until brittle; then turn the hot sugar upon 
the beaten whites of 4 eggs, stirring until cold. On the 
first layer spread i lb. macaroons chopped fine and 
mixed with some of the frosting. On the second layer 
f lb. crystalized fruit, chopped fine, mixed with some of 
the frosting and flavored with lemon. Third layer, i 
lb. blanched almonds and i lb. citron both, chopped fine 
and mixed with some of the frosting, flavored with 1 
teaspoon extract of almonds and 1 teaspoon of rose 
water. Frost the top with the frosting left over, mixed 
with a little crystalized fruit. 

WHITE CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup powdered sugar. H teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup sweet milk. Flavor with almond. 

2 whites of eggs. Bake in layers. 

Grated cocoanut mixed with sugar can be spread 
between the layers; or, if desired, an icing can be made 
of 1 cup powdered sugar, whites of two eggs, and 
enough dissolved chocolate to give it a rich dark color. 

COCOANUT WHITE CAKE. 

i cup butter. 3 eggs. 

li cups sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup sweet milk. li teaspoons baking powder. 

Bake in jelly tins. Make a frosting of the whites 
of 2 eggs and ^ cup sugar, and beat into it some finely 
grated cocoanut Spread it between and on top of cake 
and set it aside to cool. 



LAYER CAKES 371 

CREAM PUFFS. 

3 cups flour. 2 cups boiling water. 

1 cup butter. 5 eggs. 

A pinch of salt. 

Mix the flour, butter and salt, pour in the boiling 
water, beat lightly, and put on the stove in a rice boil- 
er; cook until it becomes thick, stirring constantly. 
Then take from stove, let it cool, and then break in the 
eggs 1 at a time. Drop on buttered dripping pan or 
gem irons, and bake. Have the puffs baked just before 
serving time; split and fill them with the custard filling 
given among our fillings, having it slightly cool before 
putting it in the puffs. 

RIBBON CAKE. 

h cup butter. 5 yolks of eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup milk. Ih teaspoons baking powder. 

Mix and divide. Flavor one half with orange; for 
the other half use vanilla, and enough grated chocolate 
to color brown. Take enough for 1 layer out of each 
half. Then take 

i cup butter. 5 whites of eggs. 

li cups sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup milk. H teaspoons baking powder. 

Mix and divide. Flavor one half with lemon; 
flavor the other half with rose water, and with pulver- 
ized cochineal color it pink or red. Take enough for 1 
layer out of each half. Then mix all the balance of the. 
batter together and put in any kind of fruit desired — 
seedless raisins, currants or citron. Bake in 5 layers. 
Build the cake while hot, putting nothing between lay- 
ers. Have the fruit layers alternate with the brown, 
white, yellow and red. Frost top or not. 



372 LOAF CAKES 

STRAWBERRY CAKE. 
Any sponge cake recipe will do; make the sponge 
cake dough in very thin layers and bake in biscuit 
pans. Beat the whites of 4 eggs, and when stiff add 4 
teaspoons sugar. Have ready a dish of strawberries, 
sweetened enough to take away the acid taste, and 
spread it between the layers, covering the berries with 
the frosting. Cut in small squares and serve cold. 

VANITY CAKE. 

i cup butter. ^ cup corn= starch. 

li cups sugar. li cups flour. 

Ih cups sweet milk. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

6 whites of eggs. 

Bake in 2 cakes, putting frosting between and on 
top. 

LOAF CAKES. 

Time io Bake. — Thin cakes will bake well in 15 to 20 minutes; 
thicker cakes require 30 to 40 minutes; and very thick ones will re- 
quire about 1 hour. Fruit cake will require from 2 to 3 hours. 

Do not take cakes out of the oven too soon. Let delicate cakes 
cool a little in the pans as they are apt, to fall if taken out of them 
hot, but do not let cakes stay in the pans till moist. Let the air cir- 
culate around cakes freely to cool them, and have them thoroughly 
cold before putting them away. Keejo them in a tin box or stone jar 
tightly closed. Any cake made with yeast is best eaten quite fresh. 
Cakes which are to be long kept, like wedding, black and fruit cakes, 
can be wrapped in waxed paper to advantage. Any cal^e can have 
powdered sugar dusted on it while warm; if it melts, more can be 
added after it cools. 

Use a warm knife if you cut cake, while it is warm. 

ALMOND CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour, 

li cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

i cup milk. 1 cup blanched almonds. 
3 eggs. 

Blanch the almonds, split them lengthwise, dry 

them, and mix with the cake last. 



LOAF CAKES 373 

APPLE CAKE. 

i cup butter and 2 eggs. 

i cup lard— melt these 4 teaspoons baking powder, 

together. Flour enough to make 

i cup sugar. rather soft. 
2i cups milk. 

Pare and slice 7 or 8 apples and set them down 

into the top of the dough, close together, when it is in 

the pan. Sprinkle i cup sugar and some cinnamon on 

top of all. Bake slowly, and when the apples are done 

the cake is done. This makes a dripping pan full. 

APPLE CAKE No. 2. 

i cup butter. 2 cups preserved apples. 

1 cup brown sugar. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 

1 cup molasses. 1 nutmeg. 

1 cup boiling water. 1 teaspoon soda. 

After these are well mixed together add 2 well= 

beaten eggs and 4 cups flour. To preserve the apples, 

take 1 quart of chopped apples and stew slowly in 11 

cups molasses 4 or 5 hours, or until reduced to 1 pint. 

Bake in a moderate oven. Will keep several weeks. 

DRIED APPLE CAKE. 

1 cup butter or cream. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sweet milk. Spice to taste. 

3 cups flour. 

Soak 2 cups dried apples over night; in the morn- 
ing boil them 1 hour (or till soft) in 1 cup sugar and 1 
cup molasses; when cold, add the above ingredients 
and bake. 

ANGELAS FOOD. 

Take 1 tumbler of flour and put into it 1 teaspoon 
of cream of tartar and sift the whole 4 times; beat the 
whites of 11 eggs to a stiff froth and then beat in H 
tumblers of pulverized sugar, a teaspoon of vanilla, and 
a pinch of salt; then add the flour and beat thoroughly 



374 



LOAF CAKES 



but lightly; bake in a bright ungreased pan 40 to 45 
minutes. When done, turn it over to cool, placing 
something under the corner of the pan so that the air 
will circulate underneath and assist the cooling; cut it 
out when cool. 

BLACK CAKE. 



H cups butter. 

2 cups brown sugar. 

2 cups sweet milk. 

2 tablespoons molasses. 
6 eggs beaten separate. 

3 cups browned flour. 

2 teaspoons cream tartar. 
1 teaspoon soda. 



1 teaspoon mace or nutmeg. 

1 teaspoon cinnamon. 

1 teaspoon cloves. 

4 cups currants. 

1 cup citron. 

4 cups raisins. 

Bake 3 hours. 



BLUEBERRY OR HUCKLEBERRY CAKE. 



tablespoon 
(rounding), 
cup sugar, 
cup milk, 
eggs. 



butter 2 cups flour. 

2 teaspoons baking powder 

(scant). 
1 cup berries, added last. 



BREAD CAKE. 



i cup butter 
i cup lard. 
2 cups sugar. 
2 eggs, well beaten. 



added to H cups raisins. 

Nutmeg and cinnamon. 

2 cups dough. 

1 teaspoon soda. 

Work the cake thoroughly. 



BUTTERMILK CAKE. 



1 teaspoon butter. 
1 cup sugar. 
1 cup buttermilk. 
1 egg. 



2 cups flour. 
1 teaspoon soda. 
Spice to taste. 
Cheap and good. 



CAMERON CAKE {Without Eggs), 

h cup butter. i teaspoon soda. 

Ih cups sugar. 2 cups chopped raisins. 

1 cup sour milk. Nutmeg and cinnamon to 

3 cups sifted flour. taste. 



LOAF CAKES 875 

CANADA CAKE {Without Eggs.) 

i cup butter. 2h cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup raisins. 

1 cup sour milk. 1 teaspoon soda in the sour 

milk. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3-i cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 2i teaspoons baking powder. 
1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

5 eggs (leaving out 
whites of 2 ). 

For frosting beat the whites of the 2 eggs with 

sugar enough to keep it from running, and add i cake 

of sweet chocolate; flavor with vanilla. Apply the 

frosting while the cake is hot. 

CLOVE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. i teaspoon cloves. 

2 cups brown sugar. \ nutmeg. 
1 cup sour milk. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 



1 egg. 

3 cups flour. 

1 teaspoon soda. 


1 cup raisins. 
h teaspoon salt. 




CIDER CAKE. 


h cup butter. 
1 cup sugar. 
1 cup cider. 


4 cups flour. 
1 teaspoon soda. 
1 cup raisins. 


1 egg. 





CITRON CAKE. 
1 cup butter. 4^ cups flour. 

3 cups brown sugar. 2h teaspoons baking powder. 

Ih cups sweet milk. - 2 cups citron, cut fine. 

7 eggs. 

COFFEE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 4i cups flour. " 

2 cups brown sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
1 cup strong coffee (cold). 1 cup raisins (chopped). 

1 cup molasses. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 

3 eggs. 1 teaspoon cloves. 



370 LOAF CAKES 

COLD WATER CAKE. 

2 tablespoons butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. i teaspoon soda. 

1 cup cold water. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 

1 egg. 

CONFEDERATE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups flour (level). 

1 cup pulverized sugar 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 

(heaped). Frost if desired. 

6 eggs. 

CORN^STARCH CAKE. 

i cup butter. 4 whites of eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 cups corn=starch. 

Beat the butter and sugar to a cream, then the 
whites of egg to a stiff froth and mix; beat together, 
and add the corn=starch, a tablespoon at a time, beating 
constantly. Bake in a tin lined with buttered paper. 
Bake in a moderate oven, about 1 hour. 

CORN=STARCH CAKE No. 2. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 1 cup corn=starch. 

1 cup sweet milk. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 

4 eggs. 1 teaspoon soda. 

Sift soda, cream tartar, corn=starch and flour all 
together; add it to the other ingredients, and flavor with 
1 teaspoon of any flavoring desired. 

CREAM CAKE. 

1 cup sugar. 2h cups flour. 

1 cup 'thick sour cream. 1 teaspoon saleratus (put 

2 eggs. into the cream). 

DELICATE CAKE. 

I cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

li cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

h cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon any flavoring. 
4 whites of eggs. 



LOAF CAKES 377 

DENNISON CAKE (Without Eggs). 

h cup butter. 4 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 1' teaspoon soda in the milk. 

1 cup buttermilk. Spice to taste. 

2 cups raisins. 

DATE CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 

1 cup sugar, rounding full. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sweet milk. i teaspoon lemon extract. 

2 eggs. A dash of nutmeg. 

2h cups flour. 1 heaping cup of prepared 

dates. 

Prepare the dates as directed in the introduction to 

this chapter, and stir them in the last thing. Bake in 

a shallow pan. Cut in squares to serve. 

DOUGH CAKE. ' 

i cup butter. 1 cup chopped raisins (seed- 

1 cup sugar. ed). 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon cinnamon. 

1 cup raised bread dough. A little nutmeg. 

i teaspoon soda. 

Mix the dough and butter thoroughly with the 

hand, then the sugar, then the eggs; add the fruit last. 

Do not let it stand to rise, but put it in a bread pan as 

soon as mixed and bake for an hour in a moderate oven. 

DOUGH Ci^KE (Economical). 

2 lbs. raised dough. 1 lb. raisins (seeded), 
i cup butter. i nutmeg (grated). 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon saleratus.. 

Mix well, put in greased pans, let rise about I hour, 

and bake in a moderate oven. 

FRENCH CAKE. 

I cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar, heaped. i nutmeg, grated. 

1 cup cream. I cup raisins. 

i cup milk. 2 ounces citron, chopped. 

6 eggs. 2 ounces almonds, pounded. 



378 LOAF CAKES 

FEATHER CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
I cup milk. 1 teaspoon lemon. 

3 eggs. 

This also makes a nice layer cake, with jelly or 
chocolate between layers. 

FOUNTAIN CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 
1 cup milk. i teaspoon soda. 

6 yolks of eggs. 1 teaspoon any flavoring. 

Mix the above; stir in quickly the well=beaten whites 
of 4 of the eggs, reserving the whites of 2 for the frost- 
ing. Bake in loaves, and as soon as done cover with 

frosting. 

FRUIT CAKE. 

i cup butter. If cups flour. 

i cup brown sugar. i teaspoon soda, 

i cup molasses. 1 cup chopped raisins. 

i cup sweet milk. Cinnamon, citron and cloves. 

1 egg. Flour the fruit before add- 

ing. 
FRUIT CAKE No. 2. 

h cup butter. 4 eggs well beaten. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

i cup molasses. 1 cup raisins (seeded), 

i cup water. 1 cup currants. 

Flour to make about as thick as common stirred 
cake (not too thick). It makes a large cake. 

FRUIT CAKE No. 3. 

H cups butter. 4 cups currants. 

2 cups sugar (heaped). 4 cups raisins (seeded). 
1 teaspoon rose water. 1 cup citron. 

Juice of 2 lemons. i cup almonds. 

10 eggs. 1 tablespoon of mace. 

4 cups flour. 

Flour the fruit and add it last. Allow 2 hours to 
bake if in 1 loaf. 



LOAF CAKES 379 

FRUIT CAKE {Economical). 

h cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 

2h cups sugar. h teaspoon each of ground 

\ cup sour milk. cinnamon, cloves and nut- 

6 cups flour (about that). meg. 

1 cup raisins, currants and 
citron, mixed. 

Knead all together, roll about 2 inches thick, and 

bake in a quick oven. 

STEAMED FRUIT CAKE. 

k cup butter (full). 6 cups raisins. 

2 cups brown sugar 2 cups citron, 

(heaped). 1 nutmeg, grated. 

1 teacup milk. i tablespoon each cinna- 
t cup molasses. mon and cloves. 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon soda. 

4 cups flour. 

Put in a pan and steam 3 hours; then place in the 
oven 1 hour, to dry. 

WHITE FRUIT CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

2 cups white sugar. 1 lb. almonds, blanched and 
1 cup sweet milk. cut fine. 

5 whites of eggs. 1 lb. citron cut in thin slices. 
3i cups flour. 1 grated cocoanut. 

GEORGIA CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. i cup corn=starch. > 

1 cup sweet milk. ^ 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

4 eggs. 1 teaspoon any flavoring. 

GOLD CAKE. 

h cup butter (scant). 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

i cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon lemon extract. 
4 yolks of eggs. 



380 LOAF CAKES 

GRAHAM CAKE. 

h cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sugar. i cup raisins (seeded). 

1 cup sour milk. i nutmeg, grated. 
Sh cups graham flour. 

GROOM'S CAKE. 

2 cups butter (heaped). 2 cups raisins (seeded). 

2 cups white sugar (heap- 2 lbs. almonds, blanched 

ed). and chopped. 

10 eggs. h lb. citron, shaved fine. 
4 cups flour. 

Stir the almonds into the cake; flour the raisins 

and citron and put a layer in the cake pan, then put in 

a layer of cake, then fruit again, and so on alternately, 

finishing with cake. Bake 2 hours in a moderate oven. 

HASTY CAKE. 

1 tablespoon butter. 1 egg. 

1 cup powdered sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup milk. 3 small teaspoons baking 

powder. 

Bake immediately in a quick oven; it may be baked 

in patty tins or in a loaf. Nice while fresh. 

HICKORY NUT CAKE. 

i cup butter. H cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder, 
i cup sweet milk. 1 cup hickory nut meats 

2 eggs. (chopped). 

Add the nickory nut meats last. Frost it when 
baked, mark in squares, and put a nut meat in each 
square. 

ICE CREAM CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups sifted flour. 

2 cups sugar. 1 cup corn=starch. 

1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

8 whites of eggs. 



LOAF CAKES 381 

IMPERIAL CAKE. 

1 cup butter (heaped). 2 cups flour (level). 

1 cup sugar (heaped). i teaspoon soda. 

2 teaspoons lemon juice. 1 cup raisins. 

h the grated rind of 1 lem- i cup walnuts (chopped), 
on. 5 eggs, beaten separately. 

Bake in a moderate oven li hours. Flour the fruit 

with a scant tablespoon of flour extra. 

LEMON CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 to 2^ cups flour. 

li cups sugar. 1 lemon, (juice and grated 

i cup sweet milk. rind). 

3 eggs. i teaspoon soda. 

MARBLE CAKE. 

LIGHT PART. 

A cup butter. 4 whites of eggs, 

li cups white sugar. 2 cups flour. 

i cup sour milk. i teaspoon soda. 

i teaspoon lemon extract. 

DARK PART. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda, 

i cup sour milk. i teaspoon allspice, 

i cup molasses. 1 teaspoon nutmeg. 

5 yolks of eggs. 1 teaspoon each of cinna- 

mon and cloves. 

Put alternate spoonfuls of each part into a butter- 
ed cake tin and bake slowly. 

CHOCOLATE MARBLE CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 1 cup corn=starch. 

2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 

4 eggs. . 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

2 cups flour. 

After mixing all, take out 1 cupful of the batter 
and stir into it a heaping tablespoon of grated choco- 
late; drop this in the greased pan alternately with the 
other part. 



382 



LOAF CAKES 



MOLASSES CAKE ( Without Eggs). 

1 cup butter, lard or drip- 5 cups flour. 

ping. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sug^ar. 1 cup Zante currants. 

1 cup hot water. 1 teaspoon each of cinna- 
1 cup mohisses. mon, cloves and allspice. 

Put in 2 bread=pans, with buttered paper, and bake 

an hour in a slow oven. 

ONE EGG CAKE. 

3 cups flour. 

H teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup chopped raisins. 



1 cup butter. 
H cups sugar. 
1 cup sweet milk. 
1 egg. 



MOUNTAIN CAKE. 

2 large cups flour. 
2 teaspoons baking powder. 
1 teaspoon of any flavoring. 
Fruit if desired. 

Add a little more flour if any fruit is added. 

ORANGE CAKE. 



i cup butter. 
H cups sugar, 
i cup milk. 
3 eggs. 



i cup butter. 
2 cups sugar. 
A cup water. 
5 yolks of eggs. 

PLUM 

1 large cup butter. 

2 cups sugar (heaped). 
12 eggs, beaten separately. 
4 cups sifted flour. 
1 lb. citron cut in thin 

slices. 

3 lbs. raisins, stoned and 
halved. 

H lbs. currants. 

Flour the fruit before adding it; beat the mixture 
thoroughly, and bake in welhbuttered tins 4 hours, keep- 
ing a steady heat. 



4 whites of eggs. 
2 cups flour. 

2 teaspoons baking powder. 
1 orange, (juice and grated 

rind). 

CAKE. 

i lb. dates. 

i teaspoon each mace and 

cloves. 
1 teaspoon each cinnamon 

and allspice. 
^ nutmeg, grated. 

3 tablespoons strawberry 
jam added last. 



LOAF CAKES 



383 



POOK MAN^S CAKE. 



1 tablespoon butter. 

1 cup sugar. 

2 cups flour. 



1 cup raisins. 

1 teaspoon saleratus dis- 
solved in 
1 cup sour milk. 



PORK CAKE. 



1 cup boiling water pour- 1 cup molasses, 

ed over 1 lb. raisins. 

1 lb. fat pork, chopped fine. 1 teaspoon soda. 

2 cups sugar. Spices to taste. 

Stir in flour until quite stiff, and bake slowly. 



1 lb. butter. 

1 lb. white sugar. 

12 eggs, beaten separately. 

3 tablespoons rose=water. 



POUND CAKE. 

1 lb. flour. 

- teaspoon mace. 



1 nutmeg, grated. 

Beat eggs very thoroughly. 



QVlck CAKE. 



2 eggs. 

H teaspoons baking powder. 



i cup butter. 
i cup sugar. 
i cup sweet milk. 

Add flour until it will not drop from the spoon. 

Can be eaten warm. 



RAISED CAKE. 



i cup butter. 

1 cup sugar. 

2 eggs. 

1 cup sponge. 
A cup flour. 



1 teaspoon soda. 
1 cup raisins. 
Spice to taste. 
Let rise 2 hours. 



k cup butter. 



RAISIN CAKE {Economical). 

i teaspoon soda, 
i cup sugar. 1 cup raisins. 

4 cup hot water. 1 teaspoon each cinnamon 

i cup molasses. and cloves. 

1 egg. Flour to make stiff enough 

to hold a spoon. 



884 LOAF CAKES 

RAISIN CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 4 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 3i cups flour. 

1 cup milk. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup molasses. Juice of 1 lemon. 

1 teaspoon rose=water. 2 cups seeded raisins. 

SILVER CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 
1 scant cup milk. 1 teaspoon vanilla. 

5 whites of eggs. 

Cover with white frosting. This cake is sometimes 
baked in small round tins and called " Snow Cake." 

SPONGE CAKE. 

1 cup granulated sugar. 1 saltspoon salt. 

6 eggs, beaten separate. ^ the juice and grated rind 
1 cup flour. of a lemon. 

After baking, while hot, dredge powdered sugar on 

top. 

SPONGE CAKE No. 2. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup flour. 

3 tablespoons of water. li teaspoons baking powder. 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon flavoring. 

BERWICK SPONGE CAKE. 

6 eggs. 1 cup water. 

3 cups granulated sugar. 2 teaspoons bailing powder. 
5 cups flour. Juice and grated rind of 1 
1 saltspoon of salt. lemon. 

Beat the eggs 2 minutes; add the sugar and beat 

5 minutes; then 2 cups of flour and beat 2 minutes; add 

the water, lemon juice and peel with the salt and beat 1 

minute. Have the baking powder mixed with the 

remaining 3 cups of flour, add and beat 1 minute. Bake 

slowly f hour in 2 deep bread pans. 



LOAF CAKES 385 

COCOANUT SPONGE CAKE. 

6 eggs, beaten separately. 1 teaspoon lemon essence. 
1 cup sugar, heaped. i nutmeg, grated. 

1 cup flour. Grated cocoanut. 

1 teaspoon salt. 

Put it about i inch deep in tins lined with well= 
buttered paper. Bake in a quick oven about 30 min- 
utes. 

CORN^STARCH SPONGE CAKE. 

1 cup pulverized sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder, 

i cup flour. 8 whites of eggs, well beat- 
i cup corn^starch. en. 

1 teaspoon of flavoring. 

Mix the flour, sugar, corn=starch and baking pow- 
der together dry, sifting all several times, and stirring 
thoroughly; then add the eggs and lemon flavor, and 
bake immediately. It is best baked in a long deep pan. 
— It also makes an excellent roll jelly cake; this quan- 
tity is enough for 2 large rolls; bake in long shallow 
tins; as soon as done, remove on a clean cloth, spread 
with jelly, and roll up at once. 

CREAM SPONGE CAKE. 

2 eggs, broken into 2 cups sifted flour. 

1 teacup of cream. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup white sugar. 1 teaspoon of flavoring. 
A pinch of salt. 

Beat together for 5 or 10 minutes. Bake in a 

square baking tin about i hour. 

SPICE CAKE. 

i cup butter (scant). 2^ cups flour. 

2 cups brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sour milk. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 

2 yolks of eggs. 1 teaspoon allspice. 
1 white of egg. i teaspoon cloves. 

i nutmeg, grated. 

25 



38G LOAF CAKES 

SUNSHINE CAKE. 

1 cup granulated sugar. I cup of flour. 

Whites of 7 small eggs. i teaspoon cream of tartar. 

Yolks of 5 small eggs. A pinch of salt. 

Beat yolks; beat whites about half, add cream of 

tartar and beat until very stiff; stir the sugar in lightly, 

then stir beaten yolks in thoroughly; add flour last. 

Put in a tube pan, if you have it, and bake 35 to 50 

minutes, in a slow^ oven. 

TENNESSEE CAKE. 

i cup butter. 1 full teaspoon baking 

1 cup sugar. pov^der. 

5 cup milk. 1 cup currants. 

li cups flour. A fev^ slices citron. 

Cloves and nutmeg. 

Bake in sheets, ice, and cut in squares. 

TROY CAKE. 

i cup butter. 5 v^hites of eggs. 

li cups sugar. 3 cups flour. 

1 cup milk. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

Divide the mixture and color i with strawberry 

coloring, and flavor with vanilla; flavor the other part 

with lemon. Put in the white, then the pink part, and 

bake slowly. 

WEDDING CAKE. 

4 full cups butter. 18 eggs, beaten separately. 

4 cups white sugar, heaped. 4 cups flour. 

1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoon saleratus. 
Juice of 2 lemons. i cup citron cut thin and 
3 tablespoons cloves small. 

(ground). 4 cups seedless raisins. 

2 tablespoons each of 4 cups currants, 
mace, allspice and nut- 
meg. 

Cream the butter and add the sugar, then the 
molasses, lemon and spices, then the beaten yolks, beat- 
ing all well together, then the flour with saleratus sifted 



LOAF CAKES 387 

in, and last the beaten whites; beat all together thor- 
oughly. Flour the fruit and add last. Bake slowly 4 
hours, or longer if needed. The cake will keep for 
years. 

WHITE CAKE. 

i cup butter. 1| cups flour. 

1 cup white sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

i cup sweet milk. Flavor with lemon or va- 

3 whites of eggs. nilla. 

WATERMELON CAKE. 

i cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 

I cup sweet milk. i teaspoon soda. 

3 whites of eggs. Flavor with lemon. 

Take a little more than i of the mixture and to it 

add 1 teaspoon liquid cochineal and i cup raisins. Put 

the red part in the center and bake. Cover with a 

frosting colored green with spinach. 

WHITE CAKE {Without Eggs). 

3 tablespoons nice fat. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 

1 cup granulated sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup milk. Nutmeg or any flavoring 
2k cups flour. desired. 

Add raisins or currants if liked; bake in a rather 

slow oven. It resembles old fashioned election cake. 

WHITE PERFECTION CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

3 cups powdered sugar. ^ 1 cup corn=starch. 

1 cup sweet milk. 2i teaspoons baking powder. 

12 whites of eggs. 

Caramel Icing. — Take 2 cups powdered sugar, | 
cup sweet milk, 1 tablespoon of butter. Boil 10 min- 
utes, and stir while boiling; then set the dish in cold 
water, stir until cold and spread on, 



LOAF CAKES 

WHORTLEBERRY CAKE. 

1 cup butter. 2 teaspoons cream tartar. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon 

5 eggs. and nutmeg. 

3 cups flour. 4 cups fresli whortleberries. 

Be careful not to bruise the berries; flour them and 

add last. Bake in a moderate oven. 

GINGER CAKE {Without Eggs). 

i cup butter. 5 cups sifted flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup milk. 1 tablespoon ginger. 

1 cup molasses. A little cloves if liked. 

Melt the butter and molasses in the sugar, allow 
the mixture to become hot, and then add spices, milk 
with soda, and flour. It is a good plan to try a small 
cake first, and if it falls add more flour. 

GINGERBREAD. 

i cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups sugar. 1 tablespoon baking powder. 

1 cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon ginger. 

2 eggs. 

Bake in a thin sheet, and while hot sprinkle granu- 
lated sugar on top. Cut in squares. (See our article 
on '' Frosting and Icing" for the method of glazing gin- 
gerbread). 

HARD GINGERBREAD. 

f cup shortening. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup molasses. h teaspoon salt. 

1 teaspoon ginger. Flour enough to roll out like 

pie=crust. 

HARD GINGERBREAD No. 2. 

i cup butter. 1 heaping teaspoon baking 

1 cup sugar. powder. 

2 eggs. 1 teaspoon salt. 

1 teaspoon ground ginger. Flour to roll out. 

Mix hard, and roll thin. Bake in a large dripping 
pan if you have not sheets of tin. 



LOAF CAKES 389 

HARD GINGERBREAD ( Without Eggs). 

A cup butter. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. 

1 teaspoon soda dissolved 1 level teaspoon salt, 
in 1 cup molasses. 

i cup water. Flour to roll out. 

Mix hard and roll thin, and bake as above. 
HOT WATER GINGERBREAD. 

2 tablespoons butter. 1 large cup Hour. 

1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoon soda. 

2 tablespoons sour milk. h teaspoon ginger, 
i cup hot water. 

ORMSKIRK GINGERBREAD. 

1 cup butter (heaped ). 5 level cups flour. 

1 cup brown sugar i nutmeg (grated). 

(heaped). 1 cup molasses. 

1 tablespoon gingei- i cup citron (cut fine). 

(heaped). 

Work butter and sugar together, add the molasses, 

flour and ginger, grate in the nutmeg, and stir in the 

citron. Let the dough stand over night; then roll thin, 

cut in shapes with a biscuit cutter and bake in a quick 

oven. Tt makes a delicious hard gingerbread. 

SOFT GINGERBREAD. 

Butter the size of an egg. 1 teaspoon soda dissolved in 
1 cup molasses. 1 cup of water. 

1 teaspoon ginger. 1 teaspoon salt. 

Mix stiff with flour and bake in a square tin, 
SOUR CREAM GINGERBREAD 
i cup shortening (part 1 egg. 

butter and part meat - 1 teaspoon soda, 
dripping). 1 cup sugar. 

1 cup molasses. 1 tablespoon ginger (or 

1 cup thick sour cream. more to suite taste). 

Stir all together, dissolve the soda in a little water, 
use flour enough to make a medium stiff batter, but not 
too stiff as that will spoil the effect. Bake in a good 
sized dripping pan so the cake will be Ih inch thick. 



390 LOAF CAKES 

RICH SOFT GINGEEBREAD. 

1 cup butter. 2 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 small cup molasses. 1 teaspoon each of ginger 

and salt. 

Make a stiff dough with flour, and bake in a square 

tin. 

RAISIN GINGERBREAD. 

8 eggs. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup molasses. 1 teaspoon of soda. 

1 cup sour milk. 1 cup chopped raisins. 

Spice to taste. 

SPICE GINGERBREAD. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup molasses. i cup of dried currants. 

1 cup sour milk. Ginger, cinnamon, cloves 
4 eggs. and nutmeg to taste. 

Bake in square tins. 

SOUR MILK GINGERBREAD. 

2 tablespoons butter. 2 cups flour. 

i cup molasses. 1 level teaspoon soda. 

i cup sour milk. 1 level teaspoon ground 

1 egg. ginger. 

Bake in a flat tin, not as a loaf. 

SUGAR GINGERBREAD. 

i cup butter. H teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sugar. 1 level teaspoon salt. 

i cup sour milk. 1 heaping teaspoon ground 

2 eggs. ginger. 

Mix hard and roll thin. Bake on sheets of tin or in 
the dripping pan. 



FROSTING AND ICING B91 

FROSTING AND ICING. 

Frosting or icing made from the beaten white of egg and sugar, 
serves for all kinds of ornamentation, both for cakes and pastry. 
The eggs can be beaten in a flat dish, with a fork, until stitf, and 
then the sugar added, and then the flavoring; or the sugar and eggs 
can be beaten together. Frosting cannot be made satisfactorily un- 
less the sugar used is the powdered kind, made expressly for this 
purpose. The proportions are 1 egg, to | of a cup, or 10 heaping 
teaspoons, of sugar. If an acid flavor like lemon is used, a little 
more sugar will be needed; the size of the egg must also be consid- 
ered. If an insufficient quantity of sugar is used icing will not hard- 
en. A little sweet cream, lemon=juice or v^inegar softens icing so 
that it crumbles less readily. The egg and sugar must be thoroughly 
beaten, some insisting on 80 minutes beating and others on only 5 
minutes. If the eggs do not beat readily a pinch of salt can be 
added, which will help some. Have the frosting all beaten and 
ready before the cake comes out of the oven. The frosting should 
be put on while the cake is warm, but not while it is hot If there 
are several cakes, and some of them cool while the others are being 
iced, they can be set in the oven and warmed before being frosted, 
A heavy frosting put directly on to a cake will inevitably peel on ac- 
count of the moisture or oiliness of the cake. A little flour dusted 
on a cake and then the loose particles rubbed off is a good preventative 
against the cracking of the frosting; or a little gelatine dissolved in 
boiling water and applied hot is sometimes used. An inverted milk- 
pan is a good thing on wdiich to set the cake while applying the 
frosting. Dip the knife often in cold water if the frosting is stiff, 
and smooth it off nicely. If it is desired to frost the top only, strips 
of paper, well oiled, can be pinned around the cake, extending above 
the top, to prevent the icing from running down the sides; and re- 
moved when it cools. After icing, the cake can be set in a very cool 
oven to dry and harden for a short time, but do not let the top be- 
come colored; or set it in the warm sun. If nuts, raisins, or similar 
articles are put on for ornaments they should be added wdiile the 
icing is moist. Piping is done when the icing is dry. All iced cakes 
should be kept in a very dry i^lace. 

It will please a child when making cake to make a small one for 
her; cover with white frosting, and when that hardens, write the 
child's name on top with a small brush dipped in the yolk of egg. 
Children will be more pleased with some simple cake, not much more 
than sweetened bread, and ornamented for them, than they would be 



392 CAKES 

by the richest phim cake unornamented, and which they could not 
eat with safety. 

Any frosting left over can be made into little wafers, dried in the 
oven, and used for decorating various dishes. 

COLORS FOR FROSTINGS, CANDIES, ETC. 

A Caution. — Nothing but vegetable colors should ever be used for 
frostings, candies, or any cooking purposes. As some of the coloring 
matters sold in the stores (and too often used by the uninformed) 
are deleterious or even poisonous, it is better, when possible, to pre- 
pare all coloring matters at home. ■ We give the best of those which 
are adapted for domestic use, and they will meet all the ordinary 
wants of our readers. 

To Whiten Frosting. — A few drops of lemonsjuice whitens frosting; 
so does a small pinch of cream of tartar. 

For an Amber Coloring Mixture put ^ oz. turmeric in 2 oz. deodor- 
ized alcohol; shake till dissolved, strain it, and bottle for use. 

Blue Frosting is colored with indigo. It does for ornamental 
icing, but is better not eaten. 

Brown Frosting may be made by adding caramel to gelatine frost- 
ing; or by beating the whites of the eggs with nice maple sugar. 

For Chocolate Color add a little chocolate or cocoa. 

Pink FrosJing may be made by adding cranberry, strawberry, or 
raspberry juice from which the seeds have been strained; the jelly 
can also be strained and used, or a little cochineal will produce the 
color. 

Yellow Frosting may be made by adding a trifle of strong saffron 
tea (if to much is used it is apt to impart a bitter taste). Or grate 
the rind of an orange into some orange juice, let it soak about 1 
hour; strain, and use for coloring. Lemon peel can be used in the 
game way. (These are preferable to the satfron. See what we say 
n the introduction to our article on cakes about how to grate orange 
peel. ) 

A Very Pretty Tint for frosting white cakes is made by beating to- 
gether 1 cup of white sugar and the yolk& of 8 eggs; flavor with 
lemon. 

Carmine Color can be made by mixing 1^ oz. boiling water, ^ oz. 
ammonia, and | oz. No. 40 carmine; bottle, cork closely, and it will 
keep any length of time. 

Cochineal Coloring. — In 1 cup hot water dissolve 1 teaspoon cream 
of tartar, 1 teaspoon powdered alum, and 2 teaspoons powdered coch- 
ineal; boil 5 minutes, strain through cloth, and bottle for use. Add- 
ing a little alcohol will make it keep any length of time. 



FROSTING AND ICING 39B 

A Red Color for confectionery, jellies, etc., is sometimes prepared 
by boiling sliced beetroot in a little water, and then squeezing it 
through a cloth. 

Saffron. — Boil thoroughly 1 oz. of saffron in 2 cups of water; 
strain through cloth and bottle for use. In using this, the shade 
may be varied by using more or less of it. (The objection to saffron 
is its tendency to impart a bitter taste if too much is used). 

Spinach Green. — Carefully trim the leaves from some young 
spinach, wash them, pound them to a pulp, add a little water, and 
boil till it curdles; then strain. This juice can be used fresh, or it 
can be worked up into colored sugar, and kept for future use. 

Coloring Almonds. — Almonds can be given a yellow color by split- 
ting them in two after blanching, and putting them in the oven till 
they get a light golden tinge. They can be tinged pink or red with 
cochineal mixed with a little syrujo, rubbing the almonds in it, and 
drying them in a cool oven. Green coloring is produced in the same 
way with spinach green. Only vegetable colorings should be used 
for this purpose. 

Coloring Sugar. — Dry granulated sugar can be tinted by working 
in enough of the desired tint to color the sugar; then dry the sugar, 
powder it, and bottle for use. 

Flavoring Sugar is done in various ways. It can be pounded, 
adding the flavoring during the process; then sift through a fine 
sieve, and bottle for use. For 1 lb. of sugar, 2 oz. of either lemon or 
orange peel will be sufficient. Other flavors can be obtained by 
using instead, 1 oz. of ginger, or 2 oz. of cinnamon, or ^ oz. of cloves. 
We have previously explained how to prepare vanilla sugar. 

Prepared Caramel. — Caramel is crystallized sugar heated to 420° 
F. when it decomposes, loses its power of crystallizing and ferment- 
ing, and acquires a dark brown color and a bitter flavor. It can be 
prepared as follows: Put 2 cups of granulated sugar in the frying^ 
pan, add 1 tablespoon of water, and heat it over a clear fire, stirring 
continually, till it assumes a dark brown color, is brittle, and bitter 
to the taste, but do not burn it. - Then add slowly 2 cups hot water, 
stir constantly, and boil 10 minutes and let it cool. If it candies, 
when cool, add water and boil again. Bottle when cold, keep corked, 
and it will never spoil. It is used to flavor or color custards, sauces, 
soups, broths, gravies, etc. and has so many uses that it is well to 
always keep it on hand. 

FROSTING AND ICING. 
PLAIN FROSTING.— Beat 2 eggs to a stiff froth, and gradually 
work in 1 cuj) powdered sugar and 2 teaspoons corn=starch. Use any 
flavoring preferred. 



394 CAKES 

ALMOND FROSTING. -Make like raisin frosting, but use 1 cup 
blanched sweet almonds instead of the raisins. 

BOILED FROSTING.— The white of 1 egg, 1 cup granulated 
sugar. Beat the egg to a stiff froth. Put just enough boiling water 
on the sugar to melt it; then boil to a thick syrup; pour the boiling 
syrup over the beaten egg, and beat until it is thoroughly mixed. 
Add flavor. Pour over the cake while hot. If too much boiled, the 
tendency of the frosting will be to dry before it cools, but 1 or 2 
drops of hot water added while using will remedy it. 

CHOCOLATE FROSTING.- Beat the whites of 2 eggs to a stiff 
froth, stir in 1 teacup of pulverized sugar and (5 tablespoons of grated 
chocolate; mix well, and spread on while the cake is hot. 

BOILED CHOCOLATE FROSTING.— Boil together 1 cup of 
light brown sugar and | cup of water. Remove it from the stove as 
soon as it strings from the spoon, and stir in the whites of 2 eggs 
beaten to a stiff froth, together with ^ cake of Baker's chocolate, 
finely grated. Spread this betw^een the layers and on top while the 
frosting is warm. 

EASILY=MADE FROSTING.— Allow a full half cup of pulver- 
ized sugar to the white of 1 egg, stirring it in instead of beating the 
egg; spread it smoothly over the cake and set away to dry and you 
will find that the icing made in this way will cut without breaking, 
and be smoother than when beaten in the old way. The icing made 
from the white of 1 egg is enough for an ordinary sized cake. 
Flavor, if desired, to suit the taste. 

GELATINE FROSTING. — One teaspoon gelatine put to soak in 
1| tablespoons of cold water, and allowed to stand till it becomes a 
little soft. Now add 2 tablespoons boiling water, and let the mix- 
ture boil a minute. Soak it in a cup in which it can boil. Measure, 
and pour upon a large plate, and to every tablespoon of the liquid 
add 4 tablespoons of powdered sugar rolled and sifted to free it from 
lumps. Beat well, as the longer it is beaten the lighter and whiter it 
becomes. Flavor with 1 teaspoon of any extract. Have the cake 
cold. This quantity is enough for 2 pies or 1 loaf of cake. It can 
be put on very thick, will not crumble, cuts as well as the cake itself, 
and is not sticky. 

ISINGLASS FROSTING.— Pour l' coffee cup of hot water on 1 
sheet isinglass, then leave it to dissolve in a warm place. When 
quite dissolved, and there is no scum, stir in 1 large teaspoon corn- 
starch and 2 heaping cups of pulverized sugar. Pour it on the cakes 



FROSTING AND ICING 395 

when they are cold, do not smooth it much, and let it harden in a 
cool place. More easily made than the ordinary frosting. 

MAPLE FROSTING.— This is made by adding the beaten white 
of 1 egg to 1 cup of good maple syrup; or use granulated maple 
sugar instead. 

MILK FROSTING. — Boil together 2 cups sugar, | cuj) of milk, 
and 1 tablespoon of butter for 10 minutes; remove from the stove, 
and beat until creamy and thick enough to spread. Add ^ teaspoon 
of any flavoring. 

RAISIN FROSTING.— Put 1 cup white sugar in 2 tablespoons 
warm water, and boil 5 minutes; pour it over the beaten white of 1 
egg, and beat well; then add 1 cup chopped raisins. 

SOFT FROSTING. — Take 1 cup sugar and -| cup milk, and boil 
until it will drop in strings from the spoon; then jjut in a bowl, add 
1 teaspoon of flour, and beat a few minutes; let stand until cool, and 
thick enough to spread on cake without running. 

BOILED ICING. — Stir 1 cup granulated sugar in 1 cup water, 
and set on the stove to boil; do not stir after it begins to boil; test it 
with a cold spoon, and when it "threads" by holding the spoon high 
and letting the syrup fall back very slowly into the sauce=pan, take it 
from the fire; add the beated white of 1 egg to the hot syrup, and 
beat 5 minutes. Add flavoring. Spread on the cake while warm. 

COFFEE ICING is made by stirring confectioner's sugar into 
strong coffee set on the stove till it is heated; put it on the cake 
while warm. 

ORANGE ICING — Squeeze the juice of an orange over the 
grated rind, and let it stand an hour; then strain the juice; add to it 
a cofPee=cuj) of confectioner's sugar and the yolk of an egg, then 
beat until stiff enough to spread on the cake. 

ICING COOKIES, ETC — Before putting in the oven, dredge or 
sprinkle siKjav'-gingerhvcad, coolsics, and oiher small cakes not to be 
frosted, with fine sugar, and it will give a rich brown glaze, and add 
much to their flavor. 

ORNAMENTAL ICING. 

Many people imagine that it requires a great deal of practice and 
special skill to do anything of this kind, but those who have never 
tried it will be surprised to find what pretty effects can be produced 
with the simplest materials. All that is needed is a paper cone, 
which is easily made, and a little icing 



396 



CAKES 



Paper cones for icing can be made as follows: Cut a sheet of 
rather stiff paper so as to get a triangular sheet as shown in Fig. 1, 
having it about 10 inches from 1 to 2, and 5 inches from 1 to 3. Di- 
vide the hypothenuse, 2, 3, into 3 equal parts at 5 and 4. Then fold 
over the paper to make creases in it as shown by the dotted lines 
from 1 to 5 and 5 to P, and also from 6 to 4. Then take the point 3 
between the finger and thumb of the left hand, with the point 3 up- 
ward and the long side 1, 2, towards you, and taking the point 2 be- 
tween the thumb and finger of the right hand roll the paper around 
the fingers of the left hand so as to form a cone, the apex of which 
will be at 5, and the crease 5, P, overlaj^s the crease 5, 1. This will 
leave the long point 2, 4, 6, projecting above the cone, and it can 
be turned down into the center, bringing the point 2 down to the 
apex; and this will hold the cone in shape, as seen in Fig, 2. The 
point is then cut off and the icing passes out of the opening thus 
made. The amount cut off regulates the size of the hole, and 
therefore the size of the stream of icing which will come through. 
Little brass tubes are 
made for this purpose, 
which can be bought if 
desired for a few cents 
each. The end of the 
cone is cut off, and the 
tube dropped into the 
cone, projecting a little 
as shown by the dark 
end in Fig. 3. It is 
best to make 6 or 8 
cones at a time, as the 
icing softens the paper, 
and for this reason a 
rather stiff paper is 
needed. 

To Use the Cone it is 
filled about | to | full 
of icing, and the sides of the toj) are folded in over each other in 
such a way as to hold in the icing, as shown inFig. 3. In 
using the cone it is grasped by the thumb and fore-finger of the 
left hand a little ways up from the' apex, while the right hand 
holds the top and the right thumb rests over the center or top, and 
forces out the icing by a slight pressure. The icing or frosting 
which is used is simply the white of egg beaten up with sugar as 



Fiff.3. 




PAPER CONE FOR PIPING OR ORNAMENTAL, ICING. 



FROSTING AND ICING 



B97 



(irminrinr^ 




we have explained for frosting. It can be variously colored as 
desired. The frosting on the cake should be cold when this orna- 
mental work is applied. This sort of decoration is termed piping. 

If the icing gets too thin, add more sugar; if too thick, add a 
little more beaten egg; it can be kept from drying while being used 
by laying a wet cloth over the bowl containing it. 

Piping or ornameatal 
frosting admits of endlessly 
varied designs and effects. 
It is best to begin with 
some simple design. It 
can be drawn on paper, a 

piece of glass laid over it, pjo 4_ 

and then let the nozzle of 
the cone trace the design 
while the icing is steadily 
pressed out by the thumb 
at the toj). Then the glass 
can be cleaned off and an- pj^ 5 

other trial made. In this 

way very rapid progress can be make, and any one can speedily learn 
to ornament their own cakes, while those with special aptitude can 
devise very attractive designs. A simple figure for a border is shown 
in Fig. 4, while Fig. 5 shows another design, in which the dots might 
be put on with pink icing to make a contrast. We give other 
designs suitable for practice. The best taste, however, does not 
favor an excessive use of colors. Plain white, and the milder colors 
judiciously used to produce some contrast, will result in the most 
pleasing effects. Ladies will be surprised at the ease with which the 
work is done and the advance they make in learning. Cakes can be 
thus decorated so as to produce very pretty effects which will be 
pleasing and 
gratifying to 
guests. Pat- 
terns as pretty 
as any they can 
embroider can 
be made much 
more quickly 
with a paper 
cone. A welb 
decorated cake 
makes a pretty 




Fig. 6. 

addition to 



welh ornamented 



398 SMALL CAKES 

Crystallization which is sometimes used, is merely i^utting on, 
while the icing is moist, crushed rock candy or granulated sugar, 
white or colored (see "Colors for Frosting"). Special designs can 
be applied by letting the frosting dry, then marking out the design 
with white of egg or gum water; then sprinkle on the white or 
colored sugar or candy, and shake off all that does not adhere. 

Jelly can be used for piping in just the same manner as frosting. 
Warm it so that it will pass easily through the cone; beating it to a 
uniform consistency w^ith a spoon often helps it, especially in cold 
weather. 

Butter or Lard can also be used in the same way. Have it soft 
enough to pass easily through the cone with gentle pressure, but not 
too soft. In hot weather it can be stiffened with a little flour, but do 
not get it too stiff. 

Ornamenting Other Articles.— Piping is used for decorating many 
other things besides cakes, but the method is the same for all. For 
pudry or puddings the frosting made of white of egg and sugar is 
used, while butter, lard or jelly, are used for ham, tongue or roast 
fowl. 

SMALL CAKES. 

For cookies, snaps, jumbles, etc., a quick oven is the best. They 
are all best kept in a tin box. If they get moist by keeping, dry 
them out in the oven. For icing cookies, etc., see our article on 
" Frosting and Icing." Some people sprinkle cookies with sugar, 
after being rolled out, then cut them out, press a raisin in the center, 
and bake. 

For time to hake see " Loaf Cakes." 

ALMOND DROPS. 

1 cup butter. 1 cup almonds, blanched. 
\h cups sugar. Floui- to roll and drop. 

3 eggs. 

ANISE DROPS. 

2 cups granulated sugar. 3 cups flour. 

3 eggs. 1 teaspoon anise seed. 

Beat the sugar and eggs well for \ hour; then add 
the other ingredients; drop on buttered pans and bake 
in a moderate oven. The secret lies in beating rapidly 
and thoroughly. Each teaspoon is dropped separately 
go as to make separate cakes, 



SMALL CAKES 399 

GINGER DROPS. 

i cup butter. 2 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

i cup molasses. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. 

Beat all well together, adding flour till stiff enough 

to drop from the spoon in drops the size of an egg. 

Bake on tins in a moderate oven. 

GINGER DROPS No. 2. 

1 cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

i cup molasses. 2 teaspoons ginger. 

2 eggs, well beaten. Flour to roll out. 

1 tablespoon vinegar. Flavor with lemon or va- 

nilla. 

Roll out thin, cut with a small cutter and bake in a 

quick oven. 

GINGER NUTS {Without Eggs). 

i cup lard. 1 cup molasses. 

i cup brown sugar. 1 teaspoon soda. 

i cup sour milk or butter- 1 teaspoon ginger, 
milk. 

Mix very soft, form into round balls like nuts, and 

bake in a rather quick oven. 

COOKIES. 

i cup lard. 1 cup sour milk. 

4 cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 

Ih cups white sugar. Flour sufficient to make 

dough. 

Season with caraway, seed or nutmeg to suit the 

taste. Mix thoroughly; roll very thin; bake quickly. 

BOSTON TEA COOKIES. 

1 teacup butter. i teaspoon soda. 

3 teacups sugar. Spice to taste. 

i cup sour milk. Flour enough to roll out 

3 eggs, rather stiff, 



400 SMALL CAKES 

CINNAMON COOKIES. 

1 cup butter, heaped. 3 eggs. 

2 cups brown sugar, heaped. 

Flour to roll out; cut in small cakes, and sprinkle 
on cinnamon and sugar just before baking. 

COCOANUT COOKIES. 

A cup butter. i teaspoon soda in a little 

1 cup sugar. water. 

1 egg. i cocoanut (grated). 

Flour enough to roll. 

CREAM COOKIES {Extra). 

lA cups butter. Flour to roll soft. 

H cups sugar. 3 teaspoons baking powder. 

1 cup thin sweet cream. Sprinkle with sugar and 

1 egg. cut. 

CREAM COOKIES No. 2. 

1 cup thick sour cream. i teaspoon soda. 
1 cup sugar. Flavor with lemon. 

A pinch of salt. 

Mix with flour enough to roll; after they are rolled 
sprinkle with granulated sugar and just pass the roll- 
ing pin over again so it will not dust off. 

GINGER COOKIES. 

I cup butter. 2 teaspoons soda. 

1 cup sugar. 2 heaping teaspoons ginger. 

1 cup molasses. A pinch of salt. 

I cup warm water. Mix rather soft. 

MOLASSES COOKIES {Without Eggs). 

i cup melted butter. i teaspoon soda, dissolved in 

1 cup New Orleans moias- 2 tablespoons cold water 

ses. (not more). 

Add cinnamon, cloves and 

nutmegs or other spices 

to taste. 

Use flour to make stiff enough so that it will just 
drop off from the spoon. They are nice eaten warm. 



SMALL CAKES 401 

MOLASSES COOKIES No. 2. 

Beat together 1 cup molasses, 1 cup sugar and 1 

egg; add f cup of melted lard in which is 1 teaspoon of 

salt; add 1 teaspoon of soda dissolved in warm water, 

and 1 teaspoon each of cinnamon, cloves and ginger; 

when all are mixed add 1 tablespoon of vinegar, and as 

much flour as can be mixed in. Roll out thin, and 

bake in a quick oven. 

HEEMIT COOKIES. 

i cup butter. Flour to roll soft. 

li cups sugar. i teaspoon soda, dissolved in 

3 eggs. 4 tablespoons water. 
1 teaspoon each cinnamon, 

cloves and nutmeg. 

HICKORY NUT COOKIES. 

i cup butter. Flour enough to roll thin. 

li cups sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

4 tablespoons milk. 1 cup hickory nut meats 
3 eggs, well beaten. chopped rather fine. 
Bake in a quick oven. 

ORANGE COOKIES. 

f cup butter. Flour to roll out. 

1 cup sugar. 1 heaping teaspoon baking 

3 eggs. powder. 

Grated rind of 2 or 3 orang- 
es. 

ROCKFORD COOKIES. 

i cup butter. Flour enough to roll out. 

1 cup white sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

2 tablespoons sweet milk. Bake quickly. 

1 egg. 

VANILLA COOKIES. 

i cup butter. Flour enough to roll soft. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon cream tartar. 
1 cup milk. h teaspoon soda. 

1 teaspoon vanilla. Sprinkle on sugar as you 

roll them out. 

26 



402 SMALL CAKES 

SOFT COOKIES. 

I cup butter (scant). 2 eggs, well beaten. 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

i cup milk. i teacup cocoanut stirred in. 

Mix soft. with flour. Roll about A inch thick. 

Take white of 1 egg beaten stiff, add 4 tablespoons 

granulated sugar, and cover top with this frosting; 

sprinkle with cocoanut. Bake a light brown in a quick 

oven. Watch closely as they burn easily. Extra nice. 

JUMBLES. 

i cup butter. Flour to roll out. 

1 cup sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 

I cup milk. Bake in a quick oven. 

COCOANUT JUMBLES. 

1 cup butter (scant). 1 cup flour (heaped). 

H cups pulverized sugar. 1 lb. grated cocoanut. 
5 eggs. Drop on tins with table- 

spoon. 

CREAM JUMBLES. 

i cup butter. 3 eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2h cups flour. 

i cup sour cream. i teaspoon soda. 

HICKORY NUT JUMBLES. 

1 cup butter. 2 cups flour. 

1 cup sugar. 1 cup hickory nuts. 

2 eggs. Drop off a spoon. 

GINGER BISCUITS. 

1 cup butter. 2 eggs. 

2 cups sugar. 1 teaspoon baking powder. 
i cup sweet milk. 1 teaspoon ground ginger. 

Beat the l)utter and sugar together; add the eggs 

and beat again; then add the milk. Have the baking 

powder and ginger well mixed in a coffee cup of flour; 

add this and more flour to make a stiff dough. Cut out 

little cookies and bake. 



SMALL CAKES 403 

GINGEK SNAPS. 

1 cup lard. 1 teaspoon soda dissolved 

1 cup sugar. in 2 or 3 tablespoons of 

1 cup molasses. water. 

1 tablespoon ginger. Salt to taste. 

Stir in flour until the dough can be made into mar- 
bles between the palms; flatten and place in tins far 
enough apart not to touch each other in rising, and bake 
moderately. These snaps will keep weeks if kept dry; 
if they become damp they can be dried out and baked 
again. 

GINGER SNAPS No. 2. 

1 cup butter. 2 teaspoons soda. 

2 cups New Orleans 2 tablespoons ginger, 
molasses. Flour to roll out. 

2 eggs. 

GINGER SNAPS {Without Eggs). 

i cup lard. i cup water. 

i cup butter. 1 teaspoon soda. 

1 cup sugar. Flour to roll out. 

2 cups molasses. 

SUGAR GINGER SNAPS. 

4 tablespoons lard. Flour enough to roll. 

3 tablespoons butter. 2 teaspoons ginger. 

1 cup sugar. i teaspoon soda dissolved 

i cup water (scant). in warm water. 

AVarm the shortening and sugar and stir in the 

water and ginger; then the soda and add the flour last. 

Roll out very thin and bake in a quick oven. 

FRUIT SNAPS. 

1 cup butter. 1 cup each raisins and cur-' 

1 teaspoon soda. rants, 

li cups sugar. 1 teaspoon each of ginger, 

i cup malasses. cloves, cinnamon and all- 

3 eggs. spice. 

Flour to roll out as soft as can be cut. These will 

keep several months. 



404 



SMALL CAKES 



t cup butter. 

1 cup sugar. 
4 tablespoons hot water 

2 eggs. 



LEMON SNAPS. 

Flour to roll soft. 

h teaspoon soda. 

2 teaspoons lemon juice. 

Bake in a quick oven. 




FOEMING LADY FINGEES. 



LADY FINGEKS. 
Take the yolks of 5 eggs, beaten light, 1 cup white 
sugar, 1 teaspoon baking 
powder, flour to roll thin; 
flavor to taste. Cut in strips 
the size of a finger. Do not 
let them touch in the pan. 
Bake in a quick oven, 
watching them, as they 
readily scorch. 

Lady Fingers, No. 2. — 
Another recipe is to take 
the yolks of 3 eggs, beat 
light, add h cup powdered 
sugar and beat again; add 2 
heaping tablespoons of flour, mix well, and add the 
well-beaten whites of the 3 eggs. Squeeze them out of 
a paper cone, or bag (as shown in our illustration), 
dust on sugar, and bake till light brown in a moderate 
oven. 

To Make a Pastry Bag. — Take strong muslin 12 inches square, 
fold together 2 opposite corners and fell together tightly 2 of the 
edges, thus making a triangular l)ag; then cut off the point and in- 
sert a tin pastry tul)e. It is best to make 2 or 3 bags for different 
sized tubes. To use the bag, put in the mixture, close the top, twist 
it, and hold it tightly with the right hand, while the left guides the 
point and presses out the mixture to form lady fingers, eclaires or 
anything else desired. (See the illustration.) 

MACAROONS. 

Almond Macaroons. — Take 1 lb. almonds, blanch 

them, and pound to a paste with a little rose water or 



SMALL CAKES 405 

oil of lemon; add 1 lb. of white sugar, and the well= 
beaten whites of 4 eggs. Bake in drops, or small cakes, 
on buttered tins in a slow oven to a light brown. Some 
glaze them with beaten yolk of egg, and others dust on 
sugar before baking them. Keep in tightly closed tin 
boxes or glass jars. 

Filbert Macaroons may be made in the same way, 
by using equal parts of filberts and almonds. 

For Cocoanut Macaroons, use 1 cup powdered 
sugar and 1 cup grated cocoanut; work in enough of the 
cocoanut milk to form a plain paste; mold and bake as 
above directed. 

Hickory Nut Macaroons. — Beat the whites of 3 
eggs, 1 cup granulated sugar, and 1 cup powdered 
sugar, till very light; stir in 1, cup chopped hickory 
nuts, and bake like almond macaroons. 

ECLAIKS. 

1 cup butter. 3 cups flour. 

2 cups water. 10 eggs beaten separately. 
A pinch of salt. 

Put tlie water and butter (cut small) on the stove 
till melted; bring to a boil, beat in the flour, stir 2 or 3 
minutes; let cool and then beat in the 
beaten yolks and then the beaten 
whites. Spread on buttered baking eclair. 

tins, in strips about 4 inches long and H inches wide 
(squeeze through the nozzle of a pastry bag if you have 
one) leaving them 2 inches apart to allow for swelling. 
Bake i to -^ hour. When cool, cut open and fill with 
whipped cream, flavored to taste, or with our mock 
whipped cream, or with any fruit jelly desired. Cover 
with chocolate, vanilla or almond frosting. 

CEEAM PUFFS. 

Use same mixture as for '' eclairs," but drop it onto 
the buttered baking tins by tablespoonfuls, making 




406 



SMALL CAKES 




round balls instead of fingers. When done and cool, 
cut open and fill same as the '' eclairs." 

KISSES. 

Take the well^beaten whites of 3 eggs, add 5 table- 
spoons of powdered sugar, and flavor with lemon juice; 
drop on buttered paper 
with a spoon, sift sugar 
over them and bake 30 
minutes in a slow oven. 

For Chocolate Kisses kisses. 

pound together 2 oz. chocolate and 2 cups white sugar; 
sift it, mix it with the welbbeaten white of egg^ and 
finish as above. 

MAPLE SUGAR CAKES. 

Rub a piece of butter the size of an egg into 2 cups 
of flour, then add an even teaspoon of salt, well pulver- 
ized; again add a heaping teaspoon of home=made bak- 
ing powder; stir all together thoroughly. Have on 
hand a cup of maple sugar coarsely sliced from the 
cake. (Place the cake of sugar on a tin and put in the 
hot oven until it is soft enough to cut.) Have the oven 
hot and a baking=tin well buttered; add a teacup of 
sweet milk to the flour and stir quickly. H the dough 
is not thick enough add a trifle more of flour; put in the 
sugar and stir again. Roll out and cut with the bis- 
cuit cutter; place on the tin and put in the oven. The 
oven should be hot enough to. bake them brown in 10 
minutes. 

PATTY CAKES. 



2 teaspoons baking powder. 
1 teaspoon vanilla. 



t cup sugar. 

1 cup milk or water. 

2 eggs. 

Make a soft sponge and bake quickly in patty pans. 



SMALL CAKES 407 

PUFFS. 

2 rounded tablespoons 2 eggs (well beaten). 

butter. 1 tablespoon flour. 

4 heaping tablespoons Grated rind of 1 lemon.. 

sugar. 1 cup milk. 

Mix the milk and beaten eggs; slowly add the flour, 
butter, sugar and flavor, and mix well. Bake 20 min- 
utes in a quick oven in buttered saucers. 
SHREWSBEKRY CAKES. 

1 cup butter (heaped). 2 cups flour. 

1 scant cup granulated i oz. caraway seeds, 

sugar. 1 egg^ beaten well. 

Roll very thin and cut into small cakes; prick them 
and bake in tins or shallow pans in a moderate oven. 

VERNON CAKES. 

1 heaping cup butter. 4 eggs. 

1 heaping cup sugar. 2 teaspoons soda. 

2 cups molasses. 2 teaspoons cinnamon. 
1 cup milk. 1 nutmeg, grated. 

Stir together well; bake, not too close together on 
sheet ii'on. As they burn easily watch carefully. 
CREAM CAKES. 

1 tablespoon butter. 3 yolks of eggs. 

1 cup sugar. 2 teaspoons baking powder. 

i cup milk. Flour to make stiff batter. 

Bake in patty pans in a quick oven. Cut a cone 
shaped hole in the center of each and fill with 
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla; 
or use our '' Mock Whipped Cream," given among our 
fillings for layer cakes.' Sprinkle a little dessicated 
cocoanut on top. This makes about 1 doz. cakes'. 
They are delicious. 

SAVOY BISCUITS. 

Break 5 eggs into a pan and add a cofl^ee=cup of 
granulated sugar; beat together until it is thick, then 
beat in gradually a coffee-cup of dry sifted flour. 



408 SMALL CAKES 

Place the dough in teaspoonfiils on buttered paper in a 

dripping-pan, and bake a light brown. When cold, 

brush the under sides of the biscuits with the beaten 

white of an egg^ and press 2 together. 

TRIFLES. 

2 cups butter (heaped). 2 cups sugar (heaped). 
1 cup sweet milk. 4 cups flour (heaped). 

Cream the butter and sugar, sift in the flour, add 
the milk, turn the dough onto a bread=board and work 
well; roll out in as thin sheets as possible, cut in small 
round cakes, and bake in a very moderate oven. 

TURTLE CAKES. 

These always please the children. Have the tur- 
tles all made the day before, and ready on a plate. 
Take large raisins and flatten them; insert at one end 
a whole clove, wath the head sticking out for the 
head of the turtle; at the other end insert the stem of a 
clove with the smaller end out for the turtle's tail; on 
each side insert tw^o cloves with the heads picked out 
leaving the spurs on for the claws of the turtle. Make 
nice round cookies, spread a thick frosting on one side, 
and place a turtle on the frosting to dry. 

SAND TARTS. 

Put together 2 cups sugar (heaped), 1 cup butter, 
4 cups flour (level); add 2 beaten eggs, mix smooth, 
roll out, and cut into cakes; wash over with egg^ beaten 
whole, sprinkle with cinnamon and sugar, and bake. 



DESSERTS. 




NDER this head may be found recipes for making many deli- 
cate dishes with corn^starch, eggs, gelatine, etc., which can 
be prepared in the morning, or the day before they are 
to be used, and, in warm weather, served cold as dessert. 

Fresh new milk should bo used whenever a recipe calls for milk, 
but condensed milk can be used if fresh milk is not to be obtained. 
If cream is used it should be sweet, and as fresh as possible — the 
cream from " separators " and creamers is the safest to use. Thin 
cream with milk mixed in it will not whip to a froth. The colder it 
is the better it whips — in warm weather it is apt to turn to butter. 

If cream is slightly turned a I'ery Jifile cooking soda dissolved 
in a little cold water may be mixed with it and will restore it without 
injuring the flavor. The soda (alkali) counteracts the lactic acid 
developed in souring. Milk should be scalded in a double boiler 
made for the purpose; or use a tin pail set in a kettle of boiling 
water which answers very well, and is not likely to be melted to 
pieces by a careless servant. 

So many warnings against using bad eggs have already been 
given that we need not repeat them here. Beat eggs in stone or 
earthenware and not in tin, as explained for cakes. It is an improve- 
ment to strain yolks through a small wire strainer after beating them. 
The yolks alone, or the whole egg, can be used for floats and boiled 
custards. To add the eggs so that they will not curdle there are sev 
eral ways. One way is to heat the milk till a slight foam appears on 
top, then put in the sugar, which cools it so that the eggs can be 
added without curdling. Another way is to mix in a bowl, the 
sugar and beaten yolks, then gradually add a little of the boiling 
milk which will heat the eggs and sugar; then slowly stir them into 
the boiling milk; stir constantly until it thickens a little but do not 
leave long enough to curdle; then at once set the pail containing it 
in cold water or else turn it into a cold dish, as, if left in the hot 
pail, it will curdle. 

Molds when used for blanc mange, charlotte russe and all creams, 
should be first wet with cold water. 

See what we say about the action of neat on flavoring extracts in 
our introduction to " Cake." The flavoring is best added after the 
dish is taken from the stove. 

409 



410 DESSERTS 

Rennet. — Get the butcher to prepare the stomach of a calf for 
you, salt it well, and spread out to dry; when about half dry, shake 
the loose salt oif and cut it into strips; then take a quart bottle, put 
in the strips, and fill with currant, Muscatine, or any other sweet 
wine; let stand 12 or 15 days, and it can be used. It is superior to 
the licjuid rennet sold in the stores, and will keep 12 months or more. 

BLANC MANGE. 

Blanc Mange means literally " white food " or jelly, but in many 
recipes fruit or other coloring is now added to such desserts to im- 
prove the appearance and give variety. Blanc mange is made of 
many materials, like corn^starch, arrowroot, sago, tapioca, gelatine, 
etc. It may be garnished with bright colored jelly if desired, and 
eaten with whipped cream, cream and sugar, boiled custard, pre- 
serves, fruit juices, jellies or sauces. 

Arrowroot and several other blanc manges are given in our "In- 
valid Cookery" (which see). 

ALMOND BLANC MANGE.— Take 4 cups milk, 4 tablespoons 
of cornstarch and 4 tablespoons of sugar; boil all together until 
thick, and add 30 almonds, blanched and split. 

FARINA BLANC MANGE — Mix 5 tablespoons of farina in a 
little cold water, add a pinch of salt, and stir it into 1 quart of boil- 
ing milk; boil 10 to 15 minutes, and turn into a wet mold. 

Corn=Starch Blanc Mange is made the same way, but do not cook 
quite as long. It can also be made by using 1 tablespoon less of 
corn starch, and adding 2 well beaten eggs, which makes it richer. 

FRUIT BLANC MANGE.— Stew the fresh fruit, strain off the 
juice and sweeten to taste. Put it in a double kettle and let it boil. 
While it is boiling, stir in corn-starch wet with a little cold water, in 
the proportion of 2 tablespoons of corn starch to 1 pint of juice; stir 
it until it is cooked; then pour in molds wet in cold water, and set 
them away to cool. They may be cooled quickly by setting the cups 
in a pan of cold water and changing the water as it becomes warm. 
Eat with cream and sugar, or a rather thin boiled custard. 

Cherries or red raspberries are nicest, but other fruit may be 
used. Currant juice combined with raspberries is fine; strawberries 
are good, and a circle of fresh strawberries around the molds makes a 
good garnish. 

IRISH MOSS BLANC MANGE.— Wash 1 cup moss in soda 
water to remove the saline taste, and rinse in several waters; steep it 
in 1 quart of milk till that is thickened; strain through a fine sieve, 



DESSERTS 411 

and sweeten and flavor to taste. Wet the mold in cold water and 
pour in the blanc mange. Serve with sugar and cream, eating it the 
day it is made. It is an addition to give a little preserved ginger 
with each plate. This is good for invalids without the ginger. 

RICE BLANC MANGE. — Use ^ pound ground rice, 1 quart 
milk, 3 ounces loaf sugar, 1 ounce fresh butter. Mix the rice to a 
smooth batter with about -| pint of the milk; put the remainder into 
a sauce-pan with sugar, butter, and a small pinch of salt; bring to the 
boiling point; then stir in the rice and let it boil 10 minutes. After 
taking from the fire add any flavoring desired. Grease the mold 
with salad oil, and when perfectly set, it should turn out easily. 
Garnish with jam, or pour around a compote of any kind of fruit 
just before sending to the table. It is best made the day before it is 
wanted. A nice flavoring is made by steeping 3 laurel leaves in the 
milk and taking them out before the rice is added. 

VARIEGATED BLANC MANGE.-Make 2 blanc manges— 1 
white, of corn-starch, and 1 colored, of fruit; pour a little of each of 
these alternately into a mold, thus forming different colored layers, 
letting each layer set before pouring on the next. 

CUSTARDS. 

Duck's eggs, when obtainable, add much to the richness and 
flavor of custards. Less are required than of the ordinary eggs. 
Four duck's eggs to a pint of milk makes a delicious custard. 

Ciisfco'ds may be made with cream or milk, and with eggs vary- 
ing in number. One tablespoon of sugar for each egg is the uniform 
rule for custards. 

A very plain custard can be made wnth 1 egg to a jiint of milk 
and a good one with 3 eggs, but if it is wanted very rich 4 or even 5 
eggs can be used. The richer the custard the more likely it is to 
curdle. If it does curdle, take an egg-beater and thoroughly beat a 
bowlful at once and it can be saved, although many cooks do not 
know this. Floating Island can be saved the same way. For boiled 
custards the yolks give a smoother consistency than the whites. 

Boiled custards require constant attention from beginning to_ 
end; do not let them boil an instant too long, but take them from 
the stove as soon as they are done and they will thi&ken in cooling; 
do not leave them in the hot dish, or they will curdle, but pour them 
into cold molds, or set the vessel containing them in cold water. 

Custard ought to be thin enough to pour if it is to serve as a 
sauce, and should then be taken off an instant sooner. 



412 



DESSERTS 



If the yolks only are used in the custard the whites may be 
utilized in various ways. They can be beaten up, sweetened and 
flavored and put on top, as in "Floating Island"; or after beating, 
they may be j)oached by dipping a spoonful at a time into boiling- 
water or milk, and then spread on top of the custard, either dotted 
with bits of jelly or not, as preferred. The beaten whites can also be 
colored by beating in any bright colored jelly, using 1 tablespoon of 
jelly to the white of each egg. 

The Tiiiic io Bale custards is 20 to 30 minutes in a moderate 
oven. Bake them slowly with moderate heat; if there is too much 
heat they will partly turn to Avhey. They are done when firm in the 
center; or test them by thrusting in a knife or spoon — they are done 
when it comes oat clean. 

BAKED CUSTARD.— Scald 4 cups milk; beat the yolks of 4 
eggs, add 4 tablespoons of sugar and ^ teaspoon 
of salt; pour on the scalded milk and bake in cups 
set in a driijping=pan with boiling water in the 
bottom; grate nutmeg on top. Time to bake, 
about 20 minutes. Or it can be steamed in a 
bowl or in cups. Six eggs are often used, but it is 
nice with 4, 

Nutmeg is the kernel of the fruit of an evergreen tree 
now cultivated in the West India Islands, etc. It contains 
about G% of a pungent essential oil. It is aromatic, stimu- 
lant, and contains narcotic properties. Nutmeg is injur- 
ious to many people, causing what is called heart=burn. nutme . 

BOILED CUSTARD — Bring 2 cups milk to the boil; beat the 
yolks of 3 eggs, add 3 tablespoons of sugar, |- saltsjwon salt, and beat 
well; add the boiling milk slowly, set it in a double boiler and cook till 
thick; when partly cool stir in h teaspoon of vanilla or any other flavor- 
ing preferred. One half teaspoon of corn=starch dissolved in a little 
cold water and boiled with the milk will prevent the custard from 
curdling which it is sometimes apt to do. A meringue can be made 
of the whites and sjjread over the top when cool, if desired. 

For a chocolate custard add ^ square of chocolate, melted. For 
cocoanut add -| cup grated cocoanut." Lemon or orange jelly can be 
cut in cubes and added if desired for variety, or canned or candied 
fruits, can be added. 

CORN=STARCH CUSTARD.— Beat together the yolks of 3 eggs, 
1 cup sugar and 1 teaspoon corn starch; add 2 cups boiling milk, let 
boil 10 minutes, add 1 teaspoon butter, and when cooled a little, \ tea- 
spoon of any flavoring extract liked best. 




DESSERTS 413 

ALMOND CUSTARDS.— Make a boiled custard with 1 pint of 
milk, the yolks of 4 eggs, 4 tablespoons of sugar, and 1 saltsiDoon 
of salt. When cold, add | cup of finely chopped almonds and 1 tea- 
sj)oon of vanilla. Serve in glasses with whipped cream sprinkled with 
finely=shredded almonds. 

APPLE CUSTARD. — Take 1 pint stewed apples, sweetened and 
cooled; 1 pint sweet milk, 4 eggs, well beaten. Mix the apple, milk 
and eggs, put in the baking=dish, grate a little nutmeg over the top, 
and bake h hour. 

ARROWROOT CUSTARD.— Two cups of boiling milk, 3 heaping 
teasi^oons arrowroot wet with a little cold milk, 2 tablespoons of sugar 
beaten with 1 egg. Mix the paste with the boiling milk, stirring 
briskly; take from the fire, stir in the egg and sugar, and boil 2 min- 
utes; flavor to taste and add a pinch of salt. This is very light and 
delicate, and suitable for invalids. 

BANANA CUSTARD — Make a plain boiled custard, and when 
cool, pour it over bananas cut in thin slices. 

FRUIT CUSTARDS. — Make the same as banana custard, using 
any kind of fruit desired, either fresh or canned. 

BENGAL CUSTARD — Take 1 quart of milk, 3 tablespoons of 
rice flour, 3 well-beaten eggs, 3 tablespoons of sugar, or more if liked. 
Scald the milk in a double boiler, beat the eggs, rice flour, and sugar 
together, and flavor with nutmeg or vanilla. Bake or steam in cus- 
tard^cups. If baked, place the cups in a dripping=pan of hot water 
and the cups will not be discolored. 

SOFT CARAMEL CUSTARD.— Take 1 quart of milk, ^ cup 
of sugar, G eggs, | teaspoon of salt. Put the milk on to boil, reserv- 
ing a cupful. Beat the eggs and add the cold milk to them. Stir 
the sugar in a small frying=pan until it becomes liquid and just be- 
gins to smoke. Stir it into the boiling milk; then add the beaten eggs 
and cold milk and stir constantly until the mixture begins to thicken. 
Set away to cool. Serve in glasses. 

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD.— Use i lb. Baker's prepared cocoa to , 
1 quart of milk. Mix the milk and scraped chocolate to a thick paste; 
boil 15 minules; while warm stir in 3 tablespoons sugar, and set it 
away to cool. Beat 8 eggs well, and stir into this mixture. Bake in 
cups. It may be served with a macaroon on top of each. 

COCOANUT CUSTARD.— One quart milk, yolks of 4 eggs, 6 ta- 
blespoons of sugar, 2 tablespoons corn^starch and 1 teaspoon vanilla 



414 DESSERTS 

flavoring. Put milk, sugar and eggs on the stove in a kettle of hot 
water, or use a double boiler; when the milk begins to simmer add 
the corn^starch dissolved in a little cold milk; boil 3 minutes. When 
cool add the flavoring and cover the top with grated cocoanut. 

CUSTARD FLOAT.— Put 4 large tablespoons of chocolate m 1 
quart of milk; dissolve it well, and heat it in a double boiler; add the 
wellsbeaten yolks of 4 eggs, ^ cup of sugar, 1 tablespoon of corn= 
starch, and 1 teaspoon of vanilla;. boil about as long as corn starch 
custard, and then put on ice to cool. When ready to serve pour 
into a glass dish, and put the welbbeaten whites of the 4 eggs on 
toj). It will be relished by those who like chocolate. 

LEMON CUSTARD.— Take 1 pint of fresh milk, 1 lemon, i cup 
sugar, yolks of 4 eggs. Put the milk to scald in the double boiler; 
add the grated rind and strained juice of the lemon to the sugar; 
beat the yolks of eggs stiff, then mix with the sugar and lemon, and 
stir it into the milk when scalding hot; take it from the fire immedi- 
ately as it must not boil. When it has cooled a little fill it into the 
custard=cups. The white of 1 egg and 2 tablespoons of sugar may be 
made into frosting and a portion x^lficed on each custard. 

RENNET CUSTARD.— Heat 1 quart of milk until it is luke- 
warm; add 2 tablespoons of rennet (see our recipe for jjreparing it, 
although it can be bought at the stores), 2 tablespoons of lemon 
juice, and 4 tablespoons of sugar; stir the ingredients gently to- 
gether; as soon as they are mixed pour the custard immediately into 
the bowl in which it is to be served. Set it on the ice as soon as it 
is cool, and serve it for dessert, with preserves or cream and sugar. 
It will be firm in about 2 hours, and should be served soon after. 

OST KAKA [of Sweden). — This is rennet custard served with 
cinnamon and cream. 

CUSTARD SOUFFLE — Use 2 cups milk, 2 tablespoons butter, 
■| cuj) sugar, 4 eggs, 2 teaspoons of flour, 1 teaspoon of vanilla. Scald 
the milk in a double boiler, and when hot add the yolks of the eggs 
well beaten with the sugar and flour; take from the fire as soon as it 
begins to thicken, and stir in the butter; beat the whites of the eggs 
to a stiff froth, and cut it into the custard lightly, and bake ^ hour in 
a slow oven. Serve as soon as taken from the oven. 

STEAMED CUSTARD — Take 5 eggs (throw out the yolks of 2, 
and beat), 3 tablespoons of sugar, a pinch of salt, a chip or two of 
lemon or orange, and a little vanilla. Scald 1 quart of milk, take off 



DESSERTS 415 

the scum, and pour it on the beaten eggs. Set it to steaming in a 
close covered vessel, and steam 5 or 6 minutes; then set on ice. 

TAPIOCA CUSTARD — Take 1 quart of fresh milk, 2 eggs, ^ 
cup of pearl tapioca, f cup of white sugar. Soak the tapioca over 
night, and the next morning drain off all the water while the milk is 
scalding in a double boiler; when the milk is hot, add the tapioca 
and let it simmer 10 minutes; beat the sugar and eggs together, and 
add to the milk and tapioca; flavor with cinnamon, vanilla or nut- 
meg. 

TOMATO CUSTARD — Peel and stew until thoroughly cooked 1 
quart of ripe tomatoes; strain through a sieve to remove the seeds; 
beat 3 fresh eggs very light and add them to the strained tomatoes 
with a teacup of white sugar, a pinch of salt, butter the size of an 
egg, and a little nutmeg. Bake in a quick oven 15 or 20 minutes. 
This is nice served hot or cold. 

VARIOUS CUSTARDS.— Those without experience should ad- 
here closely to the recipes given, but cooks with a little experience 
can produce a variety of custards by varying the flavors used, leaving 
the body of the custard the same. Orduges cut line (after being 
peeled and seeded) can be used, simi)ly adding them to a good 
custard; so can canned or candied fruits, chopped almonds, gr<dcd 
cocoamd, chocolate, caramels, macaroons, etc., thus making various 
custards. An ingenious cooji can devise many changes, and make 
attractive dishes, and we advise experienced cooks to try it. 

CREAMS, PUFFS, ETC. 
CHOCOLATE CREAM.— Heat 4 cups milk and a pinch of salt; 
when hot add 3 tablespoons of flour; after it thickens add yolks of 3 
eggs, beaten to a cream with 3 tablespoons of sugar; cook a few min- 
utes, and when done add 1 teaspoon vanilla. Beat the 3 whites stiff, 
add 3 tablespoons of sugar, then 3 tablespoons of grated chocolate. 
Spread it on the cream and brown it in the oven. 

COFFEE CREAM — Mix ^ cup sugar, \ cup strong cofPee and 1 
pint rich cream; whip till it is all froth; put in stem glasses, freeze, 
and serve in the same glasses. 

HAMBURG CREAM — Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of 
1 lemon into 1|- cups sugar; beat the yolks of 5 eggs, put into a pan, 
add the sugar, and set in hot water, stirring all the time; when the 
eggs begin to cook, add the 5 whites, which should be beaten and 
ready; then remove and let cool. 



416 DESSERTS 

MOCK CREAM Take 1 quart of new milk, 1 fresh egg, 1 tea- 
spoon of corn starch, 1 teaspoon of white sugar. Scald the milk in a 
double boiler, or tin pail set in a kettle of boiling water. Beat the 
starch, sugar and egg thoroughly, and stir into the milk when it is 
scalding hot. Let it get thoroughly cold before serving. 

PINK CREAM. — Use 3 gills raspberry syrup mixed with ^ 
pound of sugar and 1 pint of thick, sweet cream. Whisk until very 
lighr, and serve in whip glasses. 

RICE CREAM. — Boil 1 cup rice till tender, in new milk; add 
white sugar to whiten, x^ile on a dish, and spread slices of currant 
jelly or preserved fruit on top of it. Then take the welhbeaten 
whites of 5 eggs, sweetened with powdered sugar, and add 1 table- 
spoon of rich cream and flavor with vanilla; spread this on top like 
snow. 

RICE CREAM No. 2 — Cook 4 tablespoons of dry rice in 4 
cups milk, then add yolks of 4 eggs, 4 tablespoons of sugar, and a 
pinch of salt; cook till done and add 1 teaspoon of any flavoring de- 
sired. Beat the whites of the eggs, add 2 tablespoons of sugar, 
spread it on the cream, and brown in the oven. 

TAPIOCA CREAM. — Soak 1 cujd tapioca in 2 cups water over 
night. In the morning add 4 cups rich milk, put it in the double 
boiler and cook -J hour; then add ^ cup sugar (scant), a little lemon 
flavor, and the yolks of 3 eggs; stir continually, letting it cook 
gently for 3 minutes, and then stir in "the 3 whites of egg, beaten 
stiff. Pour it into a glass dish and serve cold. 

For a change instead of adding the 3 whites of egg the tapioca 
can be allowed to get cold, then spread on a laj^er of jelly and cover 
with a meringue. Or, leave off the jelly, cover with a soft frost- 
ing, and brown slightly in the oven. 

SAGO FLOAT. — Soak 4 tablespoons of sago in cold water ^ 
hour; then cook till clear. Heat to boiling 4 cups milk, add the sago, 
2 beaten eggs, 1 cup sugar, 1 heaping tablespoon of flour rubbed 
smooth in a little milk, and salt and flavoring to taste. Cook in a 
double boiler; when thick and creamy pour it into a pretty dish and 
dot it over with a meringue in spoonfuls; brown delicately and serve 
cold. 

AIR BALLS. — ^Make as for cream of tartar biscuit, and cut in 
small squares. Fry them in smoking hot fat, like doughnuts, lay 
them on paper to drain off the grease, and dip them in hot simmered 
molasses, which should be ready at hand. Serve hot. 



DESSERTS 417 

CRACKER DESSERT. — Put a square cracker in a saucer, pour 
just enough boiling water on it to soften it; i^ut a teaspoon of jelly 
in the center, sjorinkle sugar over, and pour sweet cream over all. 
Very nice also for invalids. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE.— Beat the whites of 7 eggs to a stiff 
froth; whij) 1 pint of cream and add it; add sugar and flavor to 
taste; pour it over sliced cake. Set in a cool place after making. 

JELLY AND RICE DESSERT.— Soak 1 teacup rice; when done 
to a jelly add 1 teasj)oon of currant jelly and | teacup of fruit juice; 
boil a few minutes; put in molds, and eat with cream and sugar. 

FLOATING ISLAND.— Beat well the yolks of 4 eggs, add 5 

tablespoons of sugar, and stir it into 1 quart of sweet milk; when 
cool, flavor and pour into a dish. Heap upon it the 5 well-beaten 
whites, to which a little sugar is added, and ^ cup jelly. Dot with 
bits of jelly. 

LAYER PUDDING (Brown Layer).— Take 2 cups milk, ^ cup 
sugar, 2 tablespoons scraped chocolate, and 2 rounded tablesx3oons 
of corn starch; moisten the starch in a small portion of the milk, and 
place the remainder in a double boiler with the chocolate until it is 
scalding hot; then add the corn-starch and sugar and stir it con- 
stantly until it thickens; then put it in a buttered jjudding dish or 
mold to cool. 

Yellow Layer. — Take 2 cups milk, | cup sugar, yolks of 2 eggs, 2 
tablespoons of corn starch and -| teaspoon of extract of vanilla; scald 
the milk as above, saving a i^ortion to moisten the corn-starch; when 
the milk is hot add the egg yolk, corn-starch and sugar, and stir 
until thick; take from the fire, add the vanilla, and jput this in the 
mold to cool, over the brown layer of pudding. 

Pink Layer — Take 2 cups milk, -J cup sugar, 2 tablespoons corn= 
starch dissolved in berry juice, or the berries may be crushed fine 
and added without straining; make like the other layers, and put this 
layer in the mold over the yellow layer. Then beat the 2 whites of 
eggs to a stiff froth, with ^ cup pulverized sugar, and place it on top. 

This pudding can be made of water instead of milk, if milk is, 
scarce, and if eggs are scarce the yellow part may be colored with a 
little saffron instead of the yolk of egg, and the frosting omitted. 
Serve with sweet cream, or any liquid pudding sauce preferred. 

KISS PUDDING — Beat the yolks of 3 eggs with | cup sugar 
until light; add 1|- tablespoons corn=starch wet with a little cold 
milk; stir in 2 cux3S boiling milk till thick; then let cool. Beat the 
whites of the 3 eggs with -^ cup sugar, spread it over the top, and 
brown in the oven. 
27 



418 



DESSERTS 



MOCK LEMON JELLY — To 4 cups boiling water add 1 small 
teacup of sugar, and 5 tablespoons of vinegar, or less if very strong; 
boil 2 or 3 minutes and stir in 2 level tablespoons of corn=starcli dis- 
solved in cold water; boil 2 minutes and add 2 teaspoons lemon 
extract; let it cool before serving. 

DESSERT PUFFS.— Take the well beaten whites of 4 eggs, 2 
cups cream, 2 cups milk, 1 cup sifted flour (heaped), 1 cup powdered 
sugar (scant), a little salt, and a little grated rind of lemon, beat 
them all together until very light; bake in gem pans, and then sift 
I)ulverized sugar over them. Eat with sauce flavored with lemon. 

RICE DESSERT. — Spread rice that has been cooked quite 
thick, on a x:>late; spread over it a layer of strawberry jam, then a 
layer of rice on top. Sprinkle jjowdered sugar on top and serve 
with cream. 

RICE WITH CUSTARD.— Boil 2 cups rice in 4 cups of water, 
with a little salt; when done turn into small cups. When cold turn 
onto a dish. Make a boiled custard with yolks of 2 eggs, 2 cups 
milk and 1 teaspoon of corn-starch; flavor with lemon. When cold 
pour it over the rice balls. 

RICE MOLDS. — Cook rice in the morning and turn it into but- 
tered teacups; when cold turn 
them on to a platter, make a 
little cavity in the top of each 
one and fill the opening with 
any kind of jelly liked best. 
Serve sweetened and flavored 
cream with them. Or put the 
rice in a large mold first; when 

cold turn out on a plate, make a cavity in the top, fill it with jelly 
and put fruit around the base, as shown in our illustration. 

MOLDED SNOW.—Scald 3 cups of milk and mix -| cup of corn^ 
starch, with 1 cup of milk, using 1 quart of milk in all. Stir the 
diluted corn^starch into the hot milk, adding also 2 tablespoons of 
sugar. Cook 15 minutes; then add the whites of 8 eggs beaten stiff 
and pour into a mold. Chill and serve. 

SCANDINAVIAN ROQROD.— Take.l^ quarts of water and add 
1|- quarts of any acid fruit juice, like currant, and 2 heaping cups 
sugar, and bring to a boil. A little stick cinnamon tied in a bag 
should be dropped in aud l^ter taken out, as it can be used in that 




EICE MOLD. 



DESSEKTS 419 

way often. While boiling, stir in slowly, to keep it from lumping, 1 
lb. soaked sago, or 1|- lbs. arrowroot; then boil 15 minutes, and turn 
into molds or cups to cool. Serve with sugar and cream when cold. 
(A favorite dish in Sweden and Norway). 

SPONGE BISCUIT FOR DESSERT.— Take 2 cups flour, 1^ cups 
sugar, sifted, 6 eggs, beaten separate, lemon flavor. Beat the whites, 
add the beaten yolks, then the lemon flavor, then the sugar; mix well 
and add flour last. Bake in patty pans, with sugar sprinkled over 
the top to glaze. Serve with a rich liquid sauce. 

FRUIT DESSERTS. 

See also what is said at the close of this section under the head 
of " Additional Fruit Desserts." 

APPLE FLOAT. — Bake 3 apples (with no water around them); 
when done, scrape the pulp all out, thoroughly mix in 1 cup sugar 
and let it cool. Then add the well beaten white of 1 egg, and beat 
all together thoroughly. Form it into shape and pour around it a 
custard made of 1 quart of milk, 1 teaspoon corn=starch, yolks of 3 
eggs, sugar to sweeten, and lemon or vanilla flavor. 

APPLE KUCHEN — Make a j)ie-crust a trifle richer than biscuit, 
roll out and place it in the bottom of the pan in which meat is 
roasted. Peel cooking apples, slice them into eighths, and place them 
across the pan, close together in even rows, leaving a small space 
between the rows, and pressing the inner edge of the apple slightly 
into the crust; sprinkle coffee "A" sugar over the apple, and a little 
nutmeg; bake in the oven until the apples are cooked. This will 
make a simple and attractive dessert. 

APPLE SNOW.— Make a boiled custard with the yolks of 3 
eggs, 2 cups milk, 4 tablespoons of sugar, a pinch of salt, and ^ tea- 
spoon vanilla. Beat the 3 whites of eggs to a stiff froth, and then 
beat in 1 cup pulverized sugar and, little by little, 2 cups unsweet- 
ened apple sauce. Serve, using the custard as a sauce. 

Apple Snow No. 2 — Sift steamed apples to make 2 cups of pulp. 
Beat the whites of 3 eggs stiff and stir together. To every table- 
spoon of apple use 1 teaspoon of sugar until the ai>ple is all beaten 
in. Beat the whole stiff and keep cold. Serve with cream or custard. 

RED CURRANT SNOW.— Use 2 cups boiling water, 2 table- 
spoons of corn=starch and 1 cup sugar; when cooked thick remove 
from fire and add the juice of 2 cups of red ciirrants crusheci ari4 



420 DESSERTS 

pressed through the colander. Beat the whites of 2 eggs, add a little 
sugar and pour over all. 

RASPBERRY SNOW — Proceed as directed for red currant 
snow. 

STRAWBERRY SNOW.— Proceed as directed for red currant 
snovr. 

Other Fruits can be used the same way, producing many varieties. 

BANANA DESSERT — Allow for 12 bananas 1-| cups fruit juice 
(any kind preferred) and 1 cup sugar. Peel the bananas and stew 
them gently in this syrup 20 minutes; then take out and lay them in 
a glass dish. Boil the syrup until it thickens and pour it over the 
bananas. Serve cold. 

BANANA DESSERT, No. 2.— Peel and slice 6 bananas; peel, 
slice and seed 6 oranges; arrange in alternate layers, sprinkling on 
powdered sugar, and squeeze the juice of a lemon 
over all and serve cold. 

BERRY DESSERTS.— In 2 cups water sim- 
mer 4 cujDs of any berries desired, sweetening to 
taste; boil 2 tablespoons of corn=starch in 2 cups 
w^ater for 15 minutes; then stir in the fruit, turn 
it into molds and set it in a cold place to harden. 
Serve cold, with cream, whipped cream or mock 
whipped cream. Or (2) arrowroot can be used 
instead of the corn starch if preferred; also fresh 

„ . , , . n (> 1 1 AREOWEOOT. 

iruit can be used instead of the stewed. 

FRUIT CUPS — Stir 2 teaspoons baking powder into 2 cups 
sifted tiour; add water to make a soft dough. Butter cofPee=cuj)s, 
dro23 in a little of the dough, then 2 or 3 teaspoons of chopped 
peaches, then enough more dough to fill the cups about half full. 
Put the cups in a pan of hot water, set in the oven, cover closely and 
steam 30 minutes. Eat with sugar and cream or whipped cream. 

Stoned cherries, currants, dates, figs, strawberries, raspberries, or any 
other fruit can be used instead of the peaches, and a variety of 
desserts produced in this vray. 

COCOANUT CORN=STARCH.— Bring 4 cups milk to the boil; 
moisten 2 tablespoons of eorn=starcli with a little of the hot milk, add 
the welhbeaten yolks of 4 eggs, |- cup of grated cocoanut and 1 salt- 
spoon of salt; stir all into the boiling milk until it thickens. Beat 
the 4 whites of eggs with ^ cup of powdered sugar, spread it on top 




DESSERTS 421 

of the corn^starch when it is partly cooled, and sj)rinkle cocoraiut 
on top. 

SNOWED FRUIT — Spread a layer of sliced ajjples, pears, 
peaches, bananas, pineai^ple or other fruit; then put on a layer of 
dessicated or fresh grated cocoanut and sugar, then another layer of 
fruit, and so on alternately. Cover the top lightly with cocoanut and 
sugar. Eat with or without cream. 

Berries of any kind may also be used instead of the larger fruit. 

TAPIOCA NUT CREAM — Soak | pound of pearl tapioca over 
night in 1^ cups of cold water. Cover with o cujos of cold water and 
cook in a double boiler until transparent, then add -I cup of sugar, 
and the juice and grated rind of a lemon; turn into small molds. 
Chill and turn into a glass dish garnished with apricots and whipped 
cream, sweetened and flavored with chopped walnuts and vanilla. 

THICKENED CREAM.- Stir together i cup of rich milk, h cup 
white sugar, and 1 wine glass of rose= water; add the beaten yolks of 
2 eggs, and stir all into 1 quart of rich cream; set it over hot coals, 
let it just come to a boil, stirring all the time; then take off, pour 
into a glass bowl, and set away to cool. Eat with any berries, like 
strawberries, or raspberries, or with sweetmeats. 

FRENCH JELLIES — Let a layer of melted jelly cool in the bot- 
tom of a mold; then add a layer of (iinj kind of fresh fruit, or soft 
dried fruit; then add another layer of jelly, and so on until the mold 
is filled. Many delicious desserts can be thus produced. 

BIRD'S NEST. — Take 6 apples, peel, sweeten and bake, and 
then cover with a custard made of 2 tablespoons sugar, 3 yolks .of 
eggs, 3 cups milk, and 1 teaspoon of vanilla; bake till firm. 

FRUIT DESSERT.-— Cover the bottom of a berry dish with a 
layer of sliced oranges; sprinkle on pulverized sugar, then put on a 
layer of strawberries, and so on alternately until the dish is full. 
Over the whole pour orange juice in the proportion of 3 oranges to a 
quart of berries. Let stand about an hour, and just before serving 
sprinkle with pounded ice. 

Fruit Dessert No. 2 — Cut bananas, oranges and pineapple in small 
pieces; arrange them in alternate layers in a glass \lish, with pow- 
dered sugar and grated cocoanut between each layer. Squeeze the 
juice of a lemon on top and set on ice for 4 or 5 hours. The last 
thing before serving sprinkle grated cocoanut freely on top. It 
makes a nice dessert with white cake. 

Various other fruits may also be combined for fruit desserts, 



422 DESSERTS 

such as strawberries, raspberries, currants, peaches, etc., and thus a 
variety of pleasing combinations and flavors can be i^roduced. Ex- 
ercise your ingenuity in devising new combinations, 

FRUIT DESSERT No. 3-- Put 4 cups of sliced apples or 
peaches or pears (or 2 cups of any nice canned fruit) in a pudding 
dish and set it on the stove to heat, while a batter is whisked to pour 
over it. Make the batter with 2 beaten eggs, 2 cups sweet milk, 2 
tablespoons melted butter, 2| cups sifted flour, 1 heaping teaspoon of 
baking powder and a pinch of salt. When the fruit is bubbling hot, 
X)our the batter over it, and bake in the oven until it is thoroughly 
done. Serve warm with cream and sugar. Many varieties can be 
thus produced. 

FRUIT WHIP. — Take either raspberries, strawberries, peaches, 
nectarines, apricots, jjears or other fruit, sweeten to taste, mash, and 
add 4 well-beaten eggs for every quart of fruit, stir together well and 
set on ice. Serve either with or without cream, or with whipped 
cream or mock whipped cream. 

LEMON CREAM.— Take the pulp of 1 lemon cut fine with a 
knife (not chopped), add the grated rind, 1 cup sugar, and | cup 
water and bring to a boil; add 2 well beaten eggs and 1 tablespoon 
flour rubbed smooth in water; when it thickens take from the fire. 
Let it cool before serving. 

ORANGE DRESSING.— Take the juice of 3 oranges and 1 lem- 
on; add ^ cup sugar and 1 egg; beat all together, bring to the boil, 
simmer 5 minutes and strain. Add a little grated peel of orange and 
lemon if desired. It makes an excellent dressing for fruits like sliced 
oranges, bananas, etc. Keej) on ice till ready to serve. 

ORANGES AND COCOANUT — Peel and slice oranges, put a 
layer in a glass dish, sprinkle on white sugar, cover with a layer of 
dessicated or fresh grated cocoanut, add another layer of oranges and 
sugar, and so on alternately, wuth cocoanut on top. It should be pre- 
pared in the morning and left in a cool place, or on ice, till tea time. 
Layers of piiiecqople can be added also if desired, A glass of lemon 
and orange juice mixed and poured over all will be an improvement, 

ORANGE FLOAT. — Stir 4 tablesx^oons sugar in 4 tablespoons 
water; pour on 4 cups boiling water and stir in 1 cup sugar and the 
juice of 1 lemon; when it thickens (in about ^ hour) take from the 
stove, and as it cools pour it over 5 or 6 sliced and seeded oranges. 
Orariges and bananas mixed are also nice. It can be eaten thus, or 




DESSERTS 423 

if desired spread over the top the beaten whites of 3 eggs sweetened 
and flavored with a few drops of vanilla. Eat with cream. 

ORANGE PUDDING.— Peel 3 sweet oranges, slice, take out 
seeds, and pour on 1 cup white sugar. Let 2 cuj)S milk get boiling 
hot, add yolks of 2 eggs well beaten and 1 teaspoon of corn-starch 
made smooth with a little cold milk; when thickened pour it over the 
fruit. Make a meringue with the 2 whites of eggs and 1 tablespoon 
of sugar, spread it on top, and harden a few minutes in the oven 
Serve cold. 

ORANGE AND RHUBARB.— Into a fruit 
dish put a layer of sliced oranges, sprinkle on 
sugar, add a layer of cold rhubarb sauce well 
sweetened, and so on alternately. Let stand ^ 
hour before serving. 

The Okange belongs to the citrus family, to which the 
citron, lime, shaddock, pomaloe, etc., belong. They are all obange. 

characterized by vnrying quantities of citric acid, citrate of 

potash and sugar in their lleshy parts. The peeled fruit contains about S6^ of 
water, 8 to 10^ of sugar, and small quantities of citric acid, albumen, cellulose, etc. 
In buying oranges remember that the sweetest ones have rough, reddish skins, 
while those with a thin, light yellow skin, will be more juicy, but also more acid. 
They are not ripe when picked if they have a greenish tinge. Oil of neroli is ob- 
tained from orange flowers. The fruit is quite wholesome. 

PEAR MERINGUE. — Cook 8 canned pears in their syrup until 
clear and the syrup is thickened, then lay them in a glass dish, or 
one that may be sent to the table. Beat the whites of 3 eggs to a 
stiff froth with sugar, spread it over the pears and browii the top in 
the oven. Serve with cake — sponge cake is nice with it. 

Other canned fruits can be prepared the same way, and many varie- 
ties produced. 

PEAR FLUMMERY.— Line a dish with lady fingers, or any kind 
of stale, plain cake; pour on a thin boiled custard, and on this spread 
a layer of sliced and sugared pears; cover it with a frosting made of 
the whites of eggs beaten stiff with pulverized sugar. Serve at once. 

Peach Flummery can be made the same way by using peaches 
instead of the pears. 

Oranges, plums, bananas or other fresh fruits can also be used, 
thus producing various kinds of flummery. 

Also any good jam, jelly, marmalade or fruit sauce can be used 
instead of the pears, and many varieties can thus be made. 

PEACHES AND RICE. — Sjjread a layer of plain boiled rice on 
a platter, sprinkle sugar over it, on this put a layer of pared and 
sliced peaches, sprinkle sugar over the whole and serve with cream 



424 DESSEETS 

PINEAPPLE PUDDING.— To 5 eggs add 1 grated pineapple, 1 
cup sugar, 1 cup sweet milk and a little salt; boil until thick, in a 
double boiler, pour into a mold and set on ice till cold. Serve with 
whipped or our mock whijjped cream. 

PRUNE WHIP. — Take 2 cups prunes, sweeten to taste and stew; 
when cold add whites of 4 eggs, beaten stifp, stir all together till 
light, put in a dish and bake 20 minutes. Serve with cream. 

Other fruit ivhrps can be made the same way. 

FRUIT PUFFS.— Take | teacup of sugar, -| teacup of milk, 2 
eggs, 2 teaspoons of baking powder, a saltspoon of salt, and flour to 
make a batter a trifle thicker than for griddle cakes; stir in a cup of 
seeded and chopped raisins or other fruit. Butter teacups and fill ^ 
full of batter, set the cups in a steamer, put on the cover and steam 1 
hour. This quantity will make 6 cups. Eat hot with orange pud- 
ding sauce. 

QUINCE SNOW.— Take the whites of 2 eggs, | cup sugar, and 5 
oz. of quince marmalade; put it in a dish shaped like a pyramid, and 
bake it a light yellow. Use other marmalades the same way, and so 
produce many varieties. 

SAGO WITH FRUIT.— Take 1 cup sago 
and soak it in half milk and water; then add 1 
quart of boiling milk, stirring until it becomes 
thick, and let it cool. Put a layer of peaches, 
pears, strawberries, raspberries, bananas, pine- 
apple, oranges, or any other fruit preferred, into 
a pudding dish, using a little sugar if needed; 
then put on a layer of sago; then another of 
fruit, and so on until the dish is full. Set it on 
ice; serve with sweetened cream. 

Sago is a starch obtained mainly from the pith of 
the sago palm. A single tree is said to yield 500 to 600 lbs. of sago. It is mainly 
starch, is easily digested and so is adapted to invalids, but is not very nutritious. 
Portland sago, or Portland arrowroot is a starch obtained from the tubers of a 
species of arum. 

STRAWBERRY FOAM.— Take 1 quart strawberries, crush, 
sprinkle on \ cu^ sugar and set in a cool place till serving time. 
Beat 2 eggs stiff, add 2 tablespoons sugar, stir into the crushed straw- 
berries and serve, decorated with large ripe berries. 

Raspberries and other fruits can be used the same way, thus produc- 
ing several varieties. 

TAPIOCA WITH FRUIT.— Pick over and wash \ cup pearl tap- 
ioca; put it in 8 cups boiling water and cook 1 hour, or till soft and 




DESSERTS 425 

transparent, stirring often; add 1 scant teaspoon of salt, g cup sugar, 
and ^ cup currant jelly; stir till the jelly is all dissolved, pour into a 
mold, and serve very cold with sugar and cream. Instead of the jelly, 
^ cup lemon juice, or any acid fruit jelly may be used; or use 1 cup 
canned apricot, peach or quince. 

In their season 2 cups of ripe straivherries, raspberries, black- 
berries, choppeO peaches, pears, or other fruits can be used instead 
of the jelly, adding more sugar. These make delicious summer 
desserts. 

TURON. — Whip the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth; chop 7 oz. 
of almonds, and sprinkle by degrees into the egg; work in sufficient 
sugar to make a flexible paste, stirring well the whole time. Flavor 
with lemon essence, and put into a mold. 

This recipe may be varied by using chestnuts, ivatmds or pea- 
nuts instead of the almonds, thus producing several varieties. 

FRUIT TRIFLE— Beat the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth; add 
2 tablespoons of sugar, and the same of raspberry jam and currant 
jelly. Eat with si)onge cake, and it is delicious. 

MOCK STRAWBERRIES.- Peel and cut rhubarb in small 
pieces and boil until tender; drain, and add 4 tablespoons of straw- 
berry juice to each pound of rhubarb; add enough molasses to 
sweeten and color a pale pink. Serve as cold as possible. (2) An- 
other dessert may be made by putting slices of sponge cake in a 
dish; prepare the fruit as above, and while warm pour it over the 
cake; when cold cover the top with custard or whipped cream. 

Mock Raspberries may be made the same way, using raspberry 
instead of strawberry juice. 

As rhubarb possesses the property of absorbing the taste of 
other fruits it can be made to taste exactly like them by being mixed 
with them and allowed to stand for a time. Pumpkin will absorb the 
taste of other fruits in the same way. 

Mock Strawberries No. 2.— Use 1 part apples to 3 parts peaches; se- 
lect choice, ripe fruit, and pare, core, and cut it into dice about as 
large as strawberries; put them in a dish in alternate layers, spread- 
on sugar thickly, and spread crushed ice on top; let stand 2 or 3 
hours, and then thoroughly mix them together; serve after they have 
stood some time longer. 

TUTTl FRUTTI — Prepare a cocoanut by opening the 2 eyes and 
letting out the milk which must be strained and kept; break the nut 
with a hatchet, or saw it in two, take out the meat, peel off' the brown 
skin and grate. Cut 2 bananas in quarters lengthwise, and then cut 



426 DESSEKTS 

in slices. Have ready a chopped pineapple, a pint of strawberries or 
raspberries, and the grated rind and juice of 1 lemon and 1 orange. 
Put a layer of the fruits and cocoanut in the bottom of a glass dish, 
then a layer of granulated sugar, then another layer of fruit and co- 
coanut and so on until the dish is full. Pour over all, the milk of 
the cocoanut and the juice of the lemon and orange. Dip from the 
bottom when serving. 

FRUIT ON TOAST. — Choose good apricots, halve them, remove 
the stones, put each half on a nice piece of bread, having the hollow 
side up, and arrange them in a well buttered dish; put a little butter 
in the hollow of each piece of fruit, sprinkle on sugar, and bake in a 
moderate oven about 25 or 30 minutes. When done, put them in a 
dish, pour over them the syrup from the l)aking dish, and serve hot. 
Peaches, pears, bananas and large plums can be treated in the same 
way. 

ADDITIONAL FRUIT DESSERTS — There are no more deli- 
cious or acceptable desserts than those 'made from fruits in their sea- 
son. In addition to the recipes for fruit desserts given above we 
would refer our readers to such recipes as those for " Fruit Ice 
Cream," " Nesselrode Pudding," " Iced Strawberry Pudding," "Fro- 
zen Fruit," "Fruit Molds," and several others in our chapter on "Ice 
Cream, Water Ices, etc." 

Also, in the chapter on " Home Candy Making," see such reci- 
pes as those for "Fruit Creams," "Cream Coated Fruits," "Cream 
Walnuts, Dates Figs, Cherries, etc.," " Glaces " " Crystallized Cher- 
ries," "Crystallized Nuts," "Frosted, Iced or Crystallized Fruits," 
and some others. 

Many delicious fruit desserts will also be found in the articles on 
"Cooked Fruits," and " Compotes" (which see), and in the chapter 
on "Puddings," and several in the following section on "Gelatine 
Preparations." By using these, in addition to the recipes given 
above, a very extensive list of fruit desserts will be found. 



DESSEKTS m 

GELATINE PREPARATIONS. 

To prepare gelatine first soak it in a small quantity of cold water, 
and then add hot water to dissolve it; or it may be j)laced in the 
required amount of cold water and set on the back of the range 
where it will heat and dissolve gradually. About 1 to 1 J- cups of 
cold water to the ounce of gelatine is the right proportion. 

Remember that gelatine should not boil, and never needs cook- 
ing. It is a good plan to strain it, after it is dissolved, through a 
fine strainer. 

Gelatine can be used most satisfactorily in jellies, blanc mange, 
creams and ices. Never use more than will suffice to make a jelly 
strong enough to retain its form when turned out of the mold. More 
is needed in summer than in winter, a scant ounce being sufficient in 
summer for 1 pint of liquid, while a little over ^ ounce will do in 
winter — this being the rule for jellies, while creams require a little 
less. It is best to set them on ice, when possible, as soon as they are 
ready. 

Molds should be buttered or oiled to facilitate taking the jellies 
from them; qr they may be wet with cold water before filling. If 
jellies stick to the molds, set them for a moment in hot water, and 
they can be easily removed. 

Gelatine is prepared from the skin and bones of animals. It requires a care- 
ful selection of materials and cleanly preparation, to obtain a ■wholesome product. 
The use of white of egg to clarify the jelly is not needed now, as was formerly 
the case, because the gelatine is claritied during the process of manufacture. 

The changes of opinion regarding the nutritive value of gelatine are inter- 
esting. In the 18th century gelatine was considered the most nourishing constitu- 
ent of meat. About the middle of the 19th century the French Academy of Science 
made a special investigation of the subject, and as a result a complete change of 
opinion took place. It was shown that gelatine alone could not sustain life, a 
reaction occurred, and very mistakenly all food value was denied it. Further ex- 
periments, however, have put it in its right place, and it is now admitted that 
while it cannot sustain life alone, it has some value as food, but it must hold a 
subordinate place, and it is only valuable when eaten with other things which sup- 
ply the elements which it lacks. It has some slight value in convalescence, al- 
though very much less than many people imagine. When pure it is tasteless and 
devoid of flavor. 

Isinglass. — This was formerly obtained from the swimming bladder of the 
sturgeon and came from Russia, but now it is obtained from many other fish and' 
comes from South America, the East Indies, Canada, etc. The best is almost color- 
less, is free from fish odor, taste and smell, and dissolves freely in any warm liquid. 

Chemically there is litttle difference between isinglass and gelatine, and what 
we say about the nourishing properties of gelatine applies equally to isinglass. 
Tests: A little pure isinglass put into cold water swells, and becomes soft, white 
and opaque, while gelatine will become transparent and glass=like. In hot water 
isinglass dissolves with little or no residuum, while gelatine leaves a considerable 
deposit. In vinegar, isinglass swells into a jelly and all trace of its structure is 
soon destroyed, while gelatine hardens and retains its form. These are the best 
tests for distinguishing between them. 



428 DESSEKTS 

Jelly of Different Colors. — This can be prepared by having jelly of 
the desired colors prepared separately; then put a little of one in a 
mold and let it cool; then pour in a little of the other and let that cool, 
and so on, allowing each layer to set before putting in the next. 
Blanc mange and jelly can be combined thus very prettily. 

ALMOND BLANC MANGE.— Put an ounce of gelatine to soak 
in a teacup of cold water; set on the stove where it will heat gradual- 
ly and dissolve. Blanch 24 sweet almonds, and pound them in a 
mortar; mix with 1 p)int of milk and 1 pint of cream, scald the mix- 
ture in a double boiler, or tin pail set in a kettle of boiling water; 
sweeten to taste, add the dissolved gelatine, stir thoroughly, and pour 
into a mold to set. 

BANANAS IN JELLY. — Prepare the gelatine, sweeten it, and 
when cool put a layer of sliced bananas and oranges in the bottom 
of a jjrepared mold or glass dish, then pour on a little of the gel- 
atine, let it set, and then put in another layer of fruit, and so on 
alternately until the dish is full; set on ice till ready to serve. 
Bananas and strawberries can be used the same way. For a variety, 
soak the gelatine in cold water, and then dissolve it in hot lemonade; 
then use it with the fruit as above. 

APPLES IN JELLY — Choose tart, medium sized apples, pare, 
core, and simmer them till tender; skim out the apples but retain the 
liquor they were cooked in and to it add 1 cup sugar for each pound 
of fruit; boil, skim, put in the apples (keeping them whole) and cook 
till they are clear. Slice lemons, remove the seeds, and cook them 
with the apples, using 1 lemon for each | doz. apples. Skim out the 
apples, put them in the dish in which they are to be served, and on 
each one put a slice of lemon. Into the syrup pour gelatine, which 
have previously dissolved and ready, (using about 1 oz. of gelatine 
for 6 or 8 apples); stir till cool, strain it over the fruit, set away to 
cool, and serve with cream. 

CHOCOLATE CHARLOTTE RUSSE.— Cover 1 ounce of gelatine 
with cold water, shave 3 ounces of Baker's prepared cocoa, and mix it 
with 1 pint of sweet cream and the gelatine. Put it in a j)orcelain 
kettle over a slow fire, and stir it until it boils and is well mixed. 
Beat the yolks of 8 eggs and whites of 4 together until very light; 
then stir them in the mixture, with ^ lb. of white sugar; simmer it 
over the fire but do not let it boil; pour it in a bowl and whip it to a 
strong froth. Having lined your pans or molds with sponge cake fill 
them with the mixture and set them on ice, or in a cool place. 



GELATINE PREPARATIONS 429 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. ( Without eggs).Soak 2 tablespoons of 
gelatine in a little cold milk 2 hours. Take 2 coffee-cups cream, 1 
teacup milk; whip the cream stitf in a large bowl; set on ice. Boil 
the milk and pour gradually over the gelatine until dissolved, then 
strain; when nearly cold add the whipped cream, a spoonful at a 
time. Sweeten with pulverized gugar, and flavor with vanilla. Line 
a dish with lady^fingers or sponge=cake; pour in the cream and set 
in a cool place to harden. 

CALF'S FOOT JELLY.— Boil 2 calves' feet in 4 quarts of water 
until it is reduced to 1 quart; strain, let it get cold, and take olf the 
fat; then add the well=beaten whites of 7 eggs, the juice of 4 lemons, 
and 1 cup of sugar; mix thoroughly and boil, with constant stirring, 
for about a minute, and stir through a bag of flannel. 

CIDER JELLY. — Take 1^ oz. gelatine, the juice of b lemons and 
the grated rind of 1; add 2 cups cold water and let it stand 1 hour; 
then add 2| lbs. loaf sugar, 3 jjints boiling water, and 1 pint boiled 
cider; put into molds, and set in a cool place. 

COFFEE JELLY. — Take 2 cups sugar, 2 cups strong coffee, 3 
cups boiling water, and 1 box gelatine. Soak the gelatine in cold 
water, then J3ut the boiling water on it; then stir the coffee and sugar 
in it, and place in molds. Eat it with whipped cream. Whipped 
cream piled around it makes it a very elegant dish. 

ENGLISH CREAM JELLY.— Mix 8 beaten egg yolks with 10 
spoonfuls of sugar and 1 of good vanilla flavoring. Stir this into 1 
quart of milk, and stir over the fire till it thickens. Strain, and stir 
occasionally till cool. Having soaked 2 ounces gelatine in a pint of 
cold water, add to it 1 pint of boiling water, and, when dissolved and 
smooth, strain into the cream and jDut into wet molds. 

For Chocolate Cream proceed as above, omitting the vanilla, and 
adding | lb. of melted chocolate. Cooled in layers, with yellow 
cream, it makes a very handsome dish. 

GOOSEBERRY CREAM. -Take off the tops and stalks from | 
cup of gooseberries, and stew them in 1 plump half cup of sugar in ^ 
cup of water; then pulp through a sieve. Melt 1 oz. gelatine in ^' 
cuj) of milk. Whip 1 cup of cream well and stir lightly in with the 
pulp; add the gelatine and milk, and stir till nearly cold. Put into 
a mold and cool. 

LEMON GELATINE.- Use ^ box of gelatine covered with 1 cup 
of cold water; let stand |- hour; add 3 cups boiling water, 2 cups of 
sugar and the juice of 2 lemons; let stand until all is dissolved, strain 
and put in a mold. 



430 DESSERTS 

LEMON CREAM — Take the juice of 4 lemons, strain, and add 
1| cups sui^ar; dissolve ^ box of gelatine, and add that and the 
strained lemon juice to 3 cups of cream whipped till stiff. Pour into 
a mold, set on ice, and serve cold. 

COCOANUT CREAM — In 1 cup of milk dissolve | box of gela- 
tine; strain, and when cool add 1 cup sugar, 2 cups of either desicca- 
ted or fresh grated cocoanut, and 2 cups of cream whipped until stiff; 
then put it in a mold and set it on the ice. 

LEMON JELLY — Place |- box gelatine in a pint of cold water, 
and set it on the stove where it will heat and dissolve gradually. 
When dissolved, add another pint of hot water, and sugar and lemon 
juice to taste — about 2 lemons, if small, will suit the taste of most 
people, but the more lemon juice, the more sugar. Make it a day 
before using, and set in the ice=chest to harden; serve M'itli thick 
whipijed cream, or our mock wliipx)ed cream, given among the fill- 
ings for layer cakes. 

LEMON JELLY AND CREAM — Place a mold of vanilla cream 
on the dish in which it is to be sent to the table; cut another 
mold of lemon jelly in pieces, or break it with a s^joon to a quiv- 
ering mass, for. a garnish. Serve a portion of each to a person; the 
combined flavor is delicious. 

LEMON WHIP — Cover I box of gelatine with 4 tablespoons of 
cold water; let stand -| hour and add 1 cup of boiling water, ^ cup 
sugar, the juice of 1 small lemon and 1 teaspoon of vanilla; stir 
until the sugar is dissolved, and set in a cold place to stiffen. When 
congealed, but not really hard, add the unbeaten whites of 2 eggs, 
and beat all to a stiff white froth. Turn into a pudding mold and 
set aside several hours to harden. Serve wiih vanilla sauce made 
from the yolks of the eggs and 2 cups of milk with vanilla flavoring. 

GELATINE FROZEN PUDDING.— Soak | box gelatine in 2 
cups cold water for -^ hour; pour on 1 cup of boiling water, and 
stir till it is all dissolved. Set away to cool until it begins to jelly, 
then stir in 2 oranges cut in small i^ieces, 2 bananas sliced, 12 
English walnuts, 6 tigs. Eat with whi^jped, or mock whipped 
cream, or soft custard. It will keep on ice for several days. One= 
half this will be enough for 5 or 6 persons. 

MOCK ICE. — Rub 3 tablespoons of some good preserve through 
a sieve with enough milk to fill a quart mold. Dissolve f oz. of 
gelatine in 1 cup milk, mix well with the above, put it in a mold, 
g§t in a cool place and turn out the next day, 



GELATINE PKEPARATIONS 431 

MACEDONIAN JELLY — Put 2 ounces of gelatine in 3 pints 
of cold water and lAace it on the stove, where it will heat gradually 
and dissolve. Add to the hot gelatine the strained juice of 2 lemons, 
and sugar to taste. Cool a little of the jelly in a mold by setting 
it on ice; when solid, add a layer of nicely^ washed Zante currants, 
seeded raisins, and stoned dates, then cover the fruit with more of 
the warm jelly; harden again on the ice, and repeat the process until 
the mold is full. Fresh grated or desiccated cocoanut may be used 
instead of fruit if preferred. 

ORANGE DESSERT — Dissolve -| box of gelatine in 2 cups 
cold water; add 2 cuj^s boiling water, 2 cups sugar and the juice 
and pulp of 1 lemon. Slice 8 oranges, put them in a dish, and 
pour the mixture over them. Keep in a cool place till ready to 
serve. 

Other Fruits can be prepared with gelatine in the same M^ay. 

ORANGE CREAM. -^In 2 cups of water dissolve 1 oz. of gel- 
atine; strain it, and add 1^ cups sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, the 
juice of 3 oranges, with the grated rind of 1 orange, and the welb 
beaten yolks of 4 eggs. Put it over a gentle fire, stir until it just 
boils (no more), pour it into a mold, and sot it in a cool place. 

ORANGE JELLY. — For delicious orange jelly, which does not 
require boiling, take 4 good^sized oranges, grate the rind of 2 and 
use the juice and jjulp of 2 lemons; take -^ box of gelatine, and 
soak it in 1 cup of cold water; sweeten to suit the taste, and 
put with the juice of the fruit, and add | of a pint of boiling water. 
Strain into molds. 

ORANGE JELLY (French).— Swell 2 oz. of gelatine in 2 quarts 
of cold water, with 12 si^oonfuls of sugar, and the whites of 2 eggs 
beaten to a froth ; strain through a wet napkin into an earthen dish ; 
add the rind of 4 very fair oranges, pared very thin; cover, and 
partly cool; add the juice of 8 oranges and 2 lemons; strain, and mix 
with the other ingredients. A few drops of yellow coloring is an 
improvement. It is then rcady^for cooling. 

PEACH CREAM — Cut a can of peaches into very small pieces ;^ 
dissolve -^ a box of gelatine by heating it slowly, on the back of the 
range, in a coffee=cup of cold water; then mix the friiit and gelatine, 
and when partly cooled, beat a pint of sweet cream until stiff; add 
sugar to taste. Mix all together and pour into a mold to harden. 

PINEAPPLE CREAM.— Peel and shred a pineapple, add § cup 
of powdered sugar and the juice of a lemon; beat till stiff 1 cup sweet 



432 DESSERTS 

cream; dissolve 1 oz. isinglass in a little hot water; mix all together 
lightly and pour into a mold; serve cold. 

PINEAPPLE JELLY — (1) Slice x^ineappie thinly, sprinkle it 
with sugar, and let stand 2 or 3 hours; make a stiff jelly with gelatine 
and when cool enough to begin to thicken i:)ut a layer of the pineap- 
lile in a glass dish, cover it with the jelly and when it sets add more 
fruit, and so on alternately until the dish is full; then set on ice. 
Serve with whipped cream or our mock whip^Dcd cream. (2) For a 
variety alternate layers of pineapple and sliced orange can be used, 
sprinkling on lemon juice and sugar; serve cold without cream. 

PRUNE JELLY — Soak 1 lb. of prunes in 1 quart of water 3 
hours; drain them, and strain the water in which you soaked them; 
put it on the range, with 1 lb. of sugar, and let it boil -^ hour. Re- 
move the stones from the prunes and j)ut them into the boiling syr- 
up, and boil it up again; have -^ box gelatine which has been soaked 
in a little cold water and stir it into the boiling prunes. Pour into 
wet molds, and set to harden in a cold place. Serve with sugar and 
cream, or whipped cream, or our mock whipped cream. If desired 
for a variety the juice of 2 oranges and that of 2 lemons, with 2 
tablespoons of sugar, can be added with the gelatine. 

RICE CREAM — Thicken a pint of new milk with rice flour to 
the consistency of cream; sweeten and flavor to taste. Beat the 
whites of 2 eggs to a stiff froth. Put -^ ounce of gelatine in -^ pint 
cold water; when well soaked iDlace over the fire until the gelatine is 
dissolved. When cold beat to a froth with an egg=beater and mix 
with an egg. This is excellent for inflammation of the bowels. 

RUSSIAN JELLY. — Dissolve 1 ounce of gelatine in 1^ cups of 
cold water, by placing it over a moderate heat; when warm and 
thoroughly dissolved, add the juice of -I a lemon, and sugar to taste; 
stir all together until well mixed, and the sugar melted; flavor with 
extract of anise seed, strain, and when nearly cold beat to a froth 
with an egg-beater, then pour into a mold, and place in the ice= 
chest to harden. A little raspberry, or other fruit juice may be used 
for coloring, if preferred. 

RUSSIAN CREAM — The Jelhj.—To 1 package of gelatine add 1 
pint of cold water. When dissolved add 1 pint of hot water, 2 cups 
of . ugar, juice of 6 lemons. Stir slowly until well dissolved, then 
strain into molds. The Cream.— Coyev 1 package of gelatine with 
cold water. When dissolved add 1 cup of new milk, 1 cup sugar; 
heat to boiling point, stirring frequently; then set away to cool. 



GELATINE PREPAKATIONS 433 

Whip 1 quart of thick cream until light, beat the whites of 6 eggs, 
and add both to the mixture; when cool flavor with vanilla. Place 
the jelly in the bottom of the molds, and when stiff and cold add the 
cream; turn out of the mold and serve in slices. 

STRAWBERRY JELLY.— Mash a quart of strawberries, add a 
cofiPee-cup of water, and let them stand where they will become 
hot; but not boil, while \ a box of gelatine, in a i^int of cold water, is 
gradually dissolving and heating, on the back of the range. Strain 
the strawberry juice into the gelatine, and add sugar to taste; jjlace it 
in a mold to harden in the refrigerator. The juice of half a lemon 
can be added if desired, and it can be served plain, or with whipped 
cream alone, or with whipped cream and sponge cake. 

The juice of other berries can be used instead, such as currants, 
raspberries, etc., and so varieties can be made. 

SPANISH CREAM.— Put i of a box of gelatine in 1^ pints of 
milk and soak 1^ hours; then simmer slowly, and add the yolks of 3 
eggs beaten with 1 cup sugar; add a pinch of salt and any flavoring 
desired. Let the mixture cool a little, and add the 3 well-beaten 
whites; turn in glasses or custard cups, and serve cold. 

SNOW PUDDING — Use 1 pint water, 1 cup sugar, juice of 1 
lemon, -| package of gelatine; dissolve and strain into cups or molds, 
enough for each person; let stand until partly cool. Beat the whites 
of 2 eggs stiff, and stir a portion into each cu^) with a fork; it will 
look exactly like snowtlakes all over the pudding. With the yolks of 
the eggs make a thin custard for sauce. Put the molded pudding 
into sauce plates, and pour the custard around each when served. 
Good for Sunday dinner as it can be made Saturday and kept in a 
cool place, and is better than when first made. 

VELVET CREAM — Soak ^- box gelatine in 1 cup warm water, 
adding the grated rind and juice of 2 lemons and two cups sugar; 
heat and stir till it dissolves, but do not let it boil; when neai'ly cold, 
but before it begins to stiffen, add the cream and beat thoroughly 
together until stiff; then pour into molds, and set on ice to harden. 
Half fill the molds first with nice strawberries, raspberries, or other 
fruits, if desired, for a variety. 

VANILLA CREAM — Soak 1 ounce of gelatine- in cold water 1 
hour, drain and dissolve in a little hot water. Thoroughly beat the 
whites of 6 eggs and beat in 1 quart of whipped cream, add sugar to 
sweeten, and flavor with IJ- teaspoons of vanilla; then add the gela- 
tine, beat until it begins to thicken and pour into molds. Serve 
very cold with cream. 
28 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND 
SHERBETS. 

ir CE creams and ices can be easily ijrepared at home, and without 
(^ much expense or labor. Many ijeople do not realize how easily 
jr^ many wholesome and attractive dishes can be i^repared in this 
way. 

Cream. — Cream which is skimmed ofp of milk after it has stood 12 
hours is called single cream; that which is taken off at the end of 24 
hours is called double cream, and that taken off' at the end of 36 
hours is called butter cream. The best double cream, and which can 
all be whipped to a stiff froth, is obtained by letting " single cream " 
stand 12 hours, and then taking off the richer part. The best cream 
to use is " double cream," the next best is " single cream." If any 
milk is used it is apt to give the ice cream a mushy, snowy taste, 
because the w^ater it contains will freeze into coarse crystals, and it 
melts quicker than when pure cream is used. Gelatine is sometimes, 
added to such cream to give it firmness and disguise the milk. 
There are many so called ice creams made with cornstarch, etc., 
without using any cream at all; of course real cream is superior to 
any substitute, but for economy's sake the substitutes are often used. 
The more water and less cream used, the easier ices are frozen. 
When short of cream it is well to remember that to add a little, if not 
more than | teacup, is always better than to use none. 

Condensed Milk can be used by mixing it with scalded milk (1 can 
of condensed milk to 1^ quarts of scalded milk) making it into a 
thick custard, and freezing it; flavor to taste, but rather highly. 

Sugar.— Double refined or sifted white sugar is the best to use. 
See what we say about eggs in the introduction to our article on 
"Cake." Ice cream should seem quite sweet before freezing, as 
when frozen it seems less so. 

Arrowroot, etc A little arrowroot added to the plainer creams 

gives them a smooth consistency, but the best creams are made with- 
out it. Arrowroot is more delicate and better to use than corn= starch 
or flour in creams. 

Ice.— The best ice to use is snowy ice which is full of airdioles, 
and is readily penetrated by the salt. The ice is most readily broken 
up by putting it in a coarse bag or coffee^sack, and pounding it with 

131 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 435 

an ax or wooden mallet until it is broken into pieces about as large 
as walnuts. The finer it is broken the faster it melts. Snow makes 
an excellent substitute for ice, and in winter can readily be used. 
Pack it firmly into the freezer, add enough water to make it into a 
thick mush, and then put in the salt. The projsortion is about 2 to 3 
l^arts snow or ice, to 1 part salt. It is not necessary to draw off the 
water as fast as the ice melts, but wait until it floats the ice. 

Salt. — The best salt to use is Turk's Island salt; rock salt is next. 
For the first freezing have it coarsely ground, and have it in small 
lumps for the "packing down" after the freezing is done. Fine 
table salt melts the ice too rapidly and is not suitable. When 
through with a freezer, any salt left in it may be drained, dried, and 
used again. 

Canned fruits, etc., when used in creams, should be opened an 
hour before using, and turned into a pitcher to aerate; this improves 
their flavor very much. 

For extracting lemon juice a glass squeezer is best. If a metal one 
is used, do not let it stand a few minutes, and then use it again with- 
out wa.shing, as the acid will attack the metal, and so taint the flavor. 

Orange juice can be extracted, without any bitter flavor, by cutting 
the orange in two, removing the pulp with a teaspoon, and straining 
it through a piece of clean cheese cloth. 

Flavoring, — Ice creams should seem quite highly flavored before 
being frozen, as after freezing they will seem less so. 

The Freezer. — Buy a freezer larger than you actually need to hold 
the cream to be frozen. Cream is better if there is room allowed for 
air, and this is especially true of sherbets and water ices; besides this 
the cream expands ^ to -^ in freezing, so that it is better not to fill 
the can more than | full. Less ice and salt are required in propor- 
tion to their contents by large than by small freezers. 

When not in use, the can of a freezer should be kept uncovered. 
After being used it should be cleaned, scalded, and thoroughly dried 
before being put away. s 

Freezing the Cream, — Before beginning to freeze ice cream let. 
it stand in the freezing can, packed with ice, but covered only wnth 
gauze, until it is thoroughly chilled; if this is done it will freeze more 
readily and take less ice, and also, if not cooked, it is apt to become 
granular, or curdle, if the attempt is made to freeze it while warm or 
lukewarm. 

There are many freezing machines on the market which are 
nearly equal in value, and less ice is required by them than by an 



436 ICE CKEAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

open pail. Directions for using the different machines are fur- 
nished with them, and we advise those who can do so to get a good 
freezer of some kind. Those, however, who have no freezer can make 
ices by using a tin pail with a close cover, and setting it in a larger 
pail which holds the ice and salt. First, pack in solidly a layer of 
broken ice about 3 inches deep, then set in a pail containing the ice 
cream mixture, and pack the ice and salt around it; next sprinkle on 
a layer of salt, then about 3 times as much ice, distributing it evenly, 
and packing it down firmly, then more salt, and so on until the freez- 
er is fall, covering it over the top also, and then cover it all over with 
an old carpet or blanket. After letting it chill for about an hour, 
open up the can, scrape the frozen cream from the sides, and beat all 
together thoroughly until it is smooth; the quality of the cream de- 
pends on doing this thoroughly; then turn off the brine, put on fresh 
ice and salt, covering it over the top, lay on the carpet, and leave for 
2 or 3 hours until frozen. The can holding the mixture should have 
a tight lid, so that not a drop of salt or brine can get into the cream* 

A litte ice cream for the use of an invalid can be put in a baking 
powder can or tin pail, packed in salt or ice for 10 minutes, then 
opened and stirred well, then let stand until the freezing is complete. 

Do not allow ice cream or fruit ices to stand long in tin or copper 
vessels, certainly not when above the freezing point, for the melting 
cream will decompose and develop acetic acid, which will attack the 
metal, producing a poisonous compound. 

Packing Down. — Newly^^frozen ice cream is apt to be mushy, and 
lacks flavor and consistence, so that after being frozen it is best to 
pack it down and let it ripen 4 or 5 hours before it is served. In 
packing down ice cream which is to be kept some time, turn off the 
brine, pack in some coarser ice and salt, and cover with an old carpet 
or blanket wet in brine. Keep the carpet wet by rewetting it from 
time to time, as then much less ice is needed because the evaporation 
keeps it cold. As long as any ice lasts the temperature will not rise 
above the freezing point. 

The principles involved in making ice cream are as follows: There are various 
freezing mixtures known and occasionally used, some of which we give elsewhere, 
but for our present purpose the ingredients almost universally relied on are ice 
and salt. All freezing mixtures have some solid substance which turns to a liquid, 
and in so doing it absorbs heat from the surrounding substances and so reduces 
their temperature, and this is the philosoj)hical principle underlying the whole pro- 
cess. The ice is submitted to the action of the salt, which has a great affinity for it 
and melts it very rapidly, and the ice in turning to water withdraws heat rapidly 
from the various preparations of cream, etc., which are buried in it. and so reduces 
their temperature rapidly and freezes them. But from this it will be clear that the 
cream will not freeze until the ice around begins to melt. So also the smaller the 
pieces of ice the more readily the salt will act on them and melt them. 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 437 

It is a mistake to think that the freeziiig needs to be done in a cool place. In 
a warm room the ice melts more rapidly, and so draws the heat more rapidly from 
the mixture submitted to its action; but if the cream is kept after being frozen, it 
should be in a cool place, of course. 

The object of the continual stirring of the ice cream is to keep the ingredients 
from separating, and the heaviest of them from settling to the bottom, while any 
cream which washes up against the side of the can and freezes must be scraped off 
and mixed in with the balance of the contents. Unless the contents are thoroughly 
stirred before the freezing takes place the whole will be spoiled; either lumps 
will form, disfiguring and discoloring it, or the sugar will settle to the bottom, 
leaving the contents imperfectly sweetened. 

It is a mistake to turn the dasher of a freezing machine rapidly, as that pre- 
vents the cream from being smooth; turn fast enough to accomplish the above ob- 
jects, but that is all. 

MoJds. — Molds are prepared to form the cream into many fanci- 
ful shapes. If they are used, after freezing the ice cream press it 
into them firmly, so that there are no air spaces, have the cover 
firmly pressed down, wrap buttered pajjer around the joint, and bury 
them in ice and salt. When ready to serve them, wash off the brine^ 
take off the cover, turn the mold on to a dish, and the ice cream will 
soon slip out if the room is warm. The molds are sometimes dipped 
in warm water to loosen the contents, but this is apt to melt the 
cream too much, and make it run down the sides and disfigure it. 

If it is desired to use 2 colors, freeze them separately, fit a piece 
of card=board into the mold which is to be filled, pack in I kind of 
ice cream on each side, withdraw the cardboard, and set the mold on 
ice. 

Coloring Ices. — For coloring ices and creams, caramel- can be used, 
or the amber color and some of the others mentioned under " Color- 
ings for Frostings " (which see). Only vegetable colors should be 
used. 

Simple Syrup can be made by putting 2 lbs. of the best lump 
sugar to I quart of water; stir occasionally till it dissolves, bring to a 
boil, take off' any scum as it rises, draw to the side of the fire, and let 
it boil gently. If boiled too fast it troubles an inexperienced opera- 
tor, as it will candy. Should this happen, add more water and boil 
again till the rec][uisite strength is attained. Test it by letting a drop 
fall into a glass of cold water; if it retains its shape it will answer. 
When cold, bottle and keep for use. It will keep any length of time, 
and can be used for many purposes. 

When too much syrup is present a mixture will not freeze 
readily. The remedy is to thin it with a proportionate quantity of 
liquid, according to the description of ice you are making. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM. 

Philadelphia ice creams, so-called, are those whicn are made 
without eggs (those made with eggs are called Neapolitan creams) 



438 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

and many people prefer the Philadelphia creams to any others, as 
they have a light, snowy texture. 

Methods of Making. — There are 2 ways of making ice cream — one 
is by cooking and the other is without cooking the cream and sugar. 
It is a little less work to make it without cooking, and the texture is 
white and snowy, but cooking not only prevents any tendency to 
curdling, but also gives the cream more richness and body. If the 
cream is cooked, put it in a double boiler, set it on the stove and stir 
often; take it off the stove when the water in the outer pan boils, add 
the flavors and sugar, stirring it till the sugar dissolves; let it stand a 
few minutes, strain, and put it into the freezing can and freeze. 

If uncooked cream is used, it is a good plan to whip a part of it, 
chill it, and stir it in just as the freezing cream is beginning to set. 

The cooked cream is rich and solid; the uncooked is .snowy and 
lighter in color, and when part of the cream is whipped it is very 
white and delicate, and suitable to put in molds to decorate the table. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM No. i.— Take 1 quart of rich 
cream, 1 heaping cup (which ecpials f lb.) of sugar, and flavor to 
taste. This makes the simplest form of ice cream, and these materi- 
als form the basis, and the above are the standard proportions for all 
the best Philadelphia ice creams. 

We give 1 or 2 other recij^ee for Philadelphia ice cream which 
are sometimes used. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM No. 2 — Mix together 2 quarts 
of thick cream and 1 pint of milk and -| lb. of sugar; dissolve 1 table- 
spoon of soda in 4 tablespoons of hot water, cool it, and add to the 
cream just before freezing. Flavor to suit the taste. 

PHILADELPHIA ICE CREAM No. 3— Heat 3 cups of fresh 
milk, and when it comes to the scalding=point have ready 2 table- 
sjjoons of arrowroot dissolved in a little cold milk and add it; when 
of the consistency of cream, remove from the tire and cool, stirring 
frequently to prevent lumping; add this custard to Ih cpiarts of well= 
whipped cream, and 1^ cups sugar; flavor to taste and freeze. 

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM. 
Method of Making. — To make cooked Neapolitan cream, proceed 
as follows: Beat the yolks of eggs, add the sugar, and beat again; 
then stir in the well beaten whites and mix all into the cream. Cook 
it over a good fire, in a double boiler, with continual stirring, until a 
knife blade dipped into it will be slightly coated without its running, 
but do not let it curdle; then remove from the fire, strain, let stand 
until cold, and put into the freezing-can. This method is best suited 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 439 

for caramel, chocolate, coffee, vanilla and nut ice creams. Should 
the custard curdle while being cooked do not throw it away, as if 
well frozen, it will come out smooth. 

There is a simple rule with regard to the use of sugar in these 
creams which it will be convenieut to know. Use ^ lb. (or 1 heaping 
cup) of sugar to sweeten each quart of cream; 2 quarts of cream 
would therefore require 1 lb. ( or 2 cups) of sugar, and so on. Any- 
where from 1 to (3 eggs are used for each quart of cream, and more 
sugar is required to sweeten eggs than cream, the rule being -| lb. of 
sugar to every 12 eggs — as the number of eggs vary, alter the 
amount of sugar to correspond; thus 1 quart of cream and 6 eggs 
would require ^ lb. of sugar, and so on. 

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. i.— Take 6 eggs, 1 quart of 
cream, £ lb. of sugar; flavor to taste and pre^jare it as directed in the 
above paragraph. This is the standard formula for the best Neapoli- 
tan cream made by confectioners. Various flavors are used, as 
vanilla, coft'ee, chocolate and caramel, and nuts may also be intro- 
duced, like filberts, almonds, etc., and such fruits as apricot, cherry 
and j)each, thus giving variety to the cream. 

While the above is the standard formula, used by first class 
confectionersj and it makes the richest and best cream, many other 
combinations are used, and the cooking is often dispensed with. We 
give 2 or 3 sample recipes. 

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. 2.— Take 1 pint of milk, the 
yolks of 2 eggs, 6 oz. of sugar, and 1 tablespoon of arrowroot; scald 
until it thickens. When it is cool add 1 pint of whipped cream and 
the whites of the 2 eggs beaten to a stiff froth; flavor to taste, and 
freeze. 

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. 3— Take 1 quart of rich 
milk or milk and cream, 4 eggs and 4 tablespoons of sugar; beat the 
eggs and sugar together, stir it into the milk or cream, cool, flavor 
and freeze. \ 

NEAPOLITAN ICE CREAM No. 4— (Picnic ice cream.) Take 
3 i)ints of milk, 1 pint cream, 1| cups sugar, whites of 3 eggs beaten 
to a stiff froth; flavor and freeze without cooking. It can be made 
and served in 1 hour. 

VARIOUS FLAVORED ICE CREAMS. 

Variety in ice creams is produced mainly by varying the flavors. 
One of the recipes which we have given for either the Philadelphia 
or Neapolitan ice creams can be used as the basis, and by using 



440 ICE CKEAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

different flavors an endless variety of creams can be produced. We 
give directions following for making many of the best and most 
popular of the flavors in use. All that is needed is to jjrepare the ice 
cream by one of the recipes which we have previously given, and 
flavor it with any desired flavor, according to the directions given. 

ALMOND ICE CREAM.^After blanching the almonds pound 
them to a paste, adding a little rose-water to prevent their oiling; 
then add it to any of the above ice creams for flavor. Use about 3 oz. 
almonds to the quart of ice cream. Another flavor is produced by 
blanching the almonds, roasting them in the oven to a golden brown, 
and pounding to a smooth paste in a mortar with a little sugar and 
cream. 

BURNT ALMOND ICE CR^AM.— Put 3 tablespoons of sugar 
over a hot fire, in a porcelain kettle, add 4 oz. almonds, and heat till 
the almonds brown, stirring constantly. Then x^ound fine in a mor- 
tar and sift through a fine strainer. Use this to flavor any of the 
ice creams previously given, using 4 oz. almonds to 1 quart of 
cream. A pleasant combination is x3roduced by fitting card=board into 
a mold and filling with almond ice cream on one side, and orange 
ice cream on the other. Then withdraw the card=board and pack the 
mold in ice 2 hours^ or till ready to serve. 

BAKED APPLE ICE CREAM.— Use 6 good sized sweet apples 
to 1 quart of ice cream; bake the apples, pass them through a sieve, 
sweeten, stir it in the cream, and freeze. 

BANANA ICE CREAM.— Put 3 cups milk into a double boiler 
and bring to a boil; then add 1 heaping cup of sugar and thicken 
with 1 tablespoon of arrowroot dissolved in cold milk; when it forms 
a thick custard take from the stove and cool; when cold, add 1 pint 
of cream and 6 thinly sliced bananas, and freeze. 

BISQUE ICE CREAM.— This is cream to which something is 
added to give it roughness, like nuts or powdered macaroons: Dis- 
solve 1 cup sugar in 1^ quarts of cream; add | cup caramel and ^ cup 
hickory =nut meats, chopped fine; then freeze. Other combinations 
can be used. 

CARAMEL ICE CREAM — Use about 3 tablespoons of caramel 
for each quart of ice cream. See our directions for making caramel 
in our article on "Colors for Frostings, etc." in the chapter on "Cake." 
A little less sugar will be needed when caramel is used. This is 
highly esteemed by many persons. 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 441 

CHOCOLATE ICE CREAM — Use about 4 to 5 ounces of choco- 
late to the quart of ice cream. It should be rubbed smooth in a lit- 
tle milk. A little vanilla is also added often, and a little cinnamon 
gives it spicy flavor; steej) the cinnamon in warm water, and use the 
clear liquid for flavoring. Or for variety, a little caramel can be 
used instead of the cinnamon flavor. That makes a chocolate cara- 
mel ice cream, and many people like it. 

COFFEE ICE CREAM.— Use about 4 tablespoons of very 
strong coffee to each quart of ice cream. If preferred, ground coffee 
can be boiled with the milk. A little arrowroot is sometimes added 
with coffee cream. 

Tea Ice Cream.— Strong tea can also be used for a flavor the same 
as coffee. 

FRUIT ICE CREAM. — Soft fruit, like raspberries or straw- 
berries, should be mashed, sweetened, strained through a colander or 
not, as preferred, and stirred into the ice cream when partly frozen. 
Firm fleshed fruit, like peach, apricot, plum, etc., should be cut into 
small pieces, sugar added, allowed to stand until the sugar is dis- 
solved, and then stirred into the cream when it is partly frozen. 

Preserved Fruit and Jams can be used instead of fresh fruit for ice 
cream. For water ices fresh fruits should always be used. If the 
juice or fruits are deficient in flavor add lemon juice. 

FRUIT JUICE ICE CREAM — Mix any desired fruit juice with 
sugar to form a clear syruj), and then beat it into the ice cream after 
it is frozen, or stir it in after beginning the freezing. Fruit juice 
should never be cooked with the cream or milk. Use 1 cup of the 
prepared juice to 1 quart of cream. 

GELATINE IN ICE CREAMS.— Use | oz. of gelatine to 2 
c^uarts of custard, (soaking it in a little cold milk) and dissolve it in 
the boiling custard just before taking it off the stove. The gelatine 
should be disguised by high flavoring: it is used to helj) the molding 
of thin creams. 

LEMON ICE CREAM.— Grate the rind of 1 lemon into 1^ 
cups of sugar which will extract the volatile oil; then add the juice' 
of the lemon and stir it in 1 quart of cream; strain and freeze at once 
or the acid will turn the cream. Or lemon extract can be used to 
flavor one of our recipes for Philadelphia ice cream. 

MACAROON AND BROWN BREAD ICE CREAM Dry the 

brown bread, pound or crumble it, sift it through a sieve, and beat it 
into the ice cream when partly frozen. 



412 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

Macaroons can be roasted to a bright brown, crushed, sifted and 
stirred in in the same way. 

NUT ICE CREAM. — Take walnuts, hazel=nuts, or similar nuts, 
chop line, and stir them into the ice cream when it is partly frozen. 
Or they may be pounded in a mortar to a fine paste and then used. 

ORANGE ICE CREAM. — Use oranges same as directed for 
lemon ice cream. 

PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM.— To each quart of ice cream allow 
1 large pineapple; pare, slice, cut it very fine, lay it in a deep dish 
and sprinkle with sugar; cover the dish, and let it stand 2 or 3 hours; 
then strain through a sieve, mashing and pressing out all the juice; 
stir it gradually into the cream, beating well. A few slices of pine- 
apple can be retained unsugared, if desired, then cut into dice and 
when the cream is partly frozen stir them in. 

PISTACHIO ICE CREAM.— Use h cup pistachio nuts to 1 quart 
of cream; blanch the nuts, put them in a mortar and pound to a fine 
paste, adding a little rose-water, and a little sugar and cream; then 
add it to the ice cream. As pistachio=nuts are costly, almonds make 
a good substitute for them. 

TUTTI FRUTTI ICE CREAM.— This is an Italian name mean- 
ing simply " all fruits." Any kind of candied or crystallized fruit 
can be chopped fine and stirred into the ice cream when it is partly 
frozen; or homemade preserves, with the syruj) drained out, and 
chopped up, can be used. Mix any kinds of fruit you have, or de- 
sire to use to get a good effect, as pineapples, jjlums, pears, cheiTies, 
etc. 

VANILLA ICE CREAM.— Use 1 tablespoon of vanilla extract, 
or § ounce of vanilla sugar to each quart of ice cream. For making 
vanilla sugar see the introduction to " Cake." It should be intro- 
duced while the cream is cooking, and fully dissolved. This is one 
of the most popular creams. 

MACEDOINES. — These are formed by mixing 2 or more fruits. 
Those should be selected whose flavors harmonize, as strawberry and 
lemon; orange and apple; apricot and peach; pineapple and orange; 
grape and plum, etc. Prepare and stir the fruit into the ice cream 
when it is partly frozen, as directed above for " Fruit Ice Cream." 

NESSELRODE PUDDING.- Scald in a double boiler, 1 quart of 
rich milk — the more cream it has the better; then add yolks of 4 
eggs and 1 cuj) sugar beaten to a cream, and 2 cups chestnuts which 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 443 

have been shelled, blanched, boiled 30 minutes, and mashed to a 
pulji; strain, put it into the freezer, and when partly frozen stir in 2 
cups of any fruit liked — berries, stoned cherries, currants or peaches 
— and finish freezing; it should stand 2 or 3 hours l^efore serving, to 
ripen. 

ICED STRAWBERRY PUDDING.- Boil 2 heaping cups of 
sugar and 2 cups water together for 30 minutes, watching carefully 
that it does not get too thick. Beat the yolks of 6 eggs very light, 
and add to the boiling syrup; stir a moment over the fire, then turn 
into a large bowl, and beat continually until cold and thick like a 
sponge cake batter; then add 1 pint of strawberry juice and freeze. 
Other fruit juices can be used instead of strawberry if desired, and 
so produce varieties. 

MOUSSE.— This is a French word meaning moss, and is ap- 
j)lied to cream so frozen as to give it a mossy look. Make it as fol- 
lows: In 1 cup cold water soak -^ box gelatine, and then set it over 
hot water to dissolve; whip 2 cups of cream, turn it into a basin, add 
the gelatine and | cup of powdered sugar; add the flavoring, and stir 
carefully from the bottom towards the top until it l)egins to stiffen; 
have a mold ready, wet with cold water, turn in the mousse, lay on a 
piece of greased writing paper, turned greased side up, fit on the 
cover tightly, and pack in ice and salt 1 hour. Or it can be put into 
a freezer and frozen until it begins to thicken, then put in the molds, 
and packed in salt and ice. Flavor it with vanilla, or any flavoring 
desired, and also stir finely=chopf)ed fruit in it if desired, the same as 
in ice cream. 

FROZEN FRUIT.— Cut firm=fleshed fruits like peaches, pine- 
apples, apples, etc., into dice; grai)es, plums, etc., should be stoned 
and chopped, but strawberries and raspberries need not be crushed. 
Add sugar to sweeten, and when that is dissolved put them in the 
freezer and freeze. If desired, a little whipped cream can be added 
when they are partly frozen, but they are delicious without it. - 

FRUIT MOLDS. — Take molds, line them with ice cream, and 
into the center put any fruit liked, cut into dice; or fill with berries, 
if preferred; put ice cream over all, press down the cover, and pack 
in ice and salt. Chill the fruit thus, but do not freeze it. 

WATER ICES AND SHERBETS. 

Water ices and sherbets (sherbet means a drink) are all com- 
posed of the juice of fruit, sugar and water. They vary much in 
richness from the ordinary lemonade which has been frozen, up to 



444 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

those comj)osed of equal parts of sugar and pure fruit juice. They 
have been less ijopular than ice cream because they not only become 
soft and spongy and melt soon on exposure to the air, but as ordi- 
narily made they are often lumpy, have a gritty taste, and a texture 
like a stiffened compound of flavored water and snow. If the fol- 
lowing method is pursued they can be made much like ice cream 
in texture, lacing firm, smooth and delicious. 

Method of Making Water Ices and Sherbets. — Cook the water and 
sugar to a clear syrup in a doul:)le boiler, take off the scum, strain it 
(using fine muslin cloth for the strainer), and let it cool; then add 
the other materials (fruit juice, etc.) and put all into the freezer, 
pack in the ice and salt, and freeze it. It will take rather longer to 
freeze than ice cream, but slowly turn the crank until the contents 
become stiff; then the can should be oi^ened, the sides scraped 
dowU; and all stirred till smooth; the beaten white of 1 egg, with 
1 teaspoon of pulverized sugar beaten with it, should then be added, 
and worked in till smooth. This amount of egg and sugar will be 
sufficient for 4 quarts of sherbet. Then let the brine off, pack again 
with ice and salt, and let stand 2 or 3 hours to rixDcn, covered with 
a carpet wet in brine, keeping it wet. Then open it, beat again and 
again pack down. Fruit jellies, when used should be melted very 
carefully in water, then cooled, and frozen as just explained. 

If the granular kind of ices are preferred, the cooking should 
be omitted, the ingredients mixed and then frozen; also omit the 
beaten egg and sugar added last, as above directed, for finish. Some 
people dissolve a little gelatine and add it to water ices, as it makes 
them smooth. 

In preparing water ices remember that too much sugar prevents 
freezing, and too little makes them brittle. 

Ices are not considered very wholesome. They should not be 
taken at once after violent exercise, nor while very warm, and they 
are apt to retard digestion if taken while that is going on. 

Granites and Frappes (pronounced frap-pay) are formed by mix- 
ing the ingredients without cooking, and only about half freezing 
them, so that they are like wet snow. , The ingredients used are fruit 
juice, sugar and water, the same as for water ices and sherbets. 

ORANGE ICE — Take 12 fine juicy oranges, squeeze out the 
juice and pour a little boiling water on the pulp to extract the juice 
from that; add the juice of 2 lemons, the grated rind of 2 oranges, 
1^ lbs. of sugar, and 1 quart of water; strain and freeze. When about 
half frozen add the beaten whites of 2 eggs. 

Lemon Ice can be made the same way, but may need more sugar. 



ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 445 

PINEAPPLE ICE — Mix 1 can of chopped pineapple, 2 cups 
sugar, and 2 cups of water; then freeze. Or 2 cups fresh fruit can 
be used instead of the canned. A little lemon or orange juice or 
both are sometimes added to improve the flavor. A little gelatine 
dissolved and strained is also added sometimes. 

STRAWBERRY ICE.— Mix 2 cups of strawberry juice, 2 cups of 
sugar, and 3 cups of cold water. Soak 1 tablesjaoon of gelatine in 
2 tablespoons of cold water, then add 2 tablespoons of boiling water 
and when thoroughly dissolved strain and mix with the strawberry 
juice and sugar; then freeze. In winter strawberry shrub may be 
used in place of the juice and it will be nearly as good, but it should 
be colored with a little cochineal. 

Other fruit juices can be used instead of the strawberry, and 
thus a variety produced. 

QINQER SHERBET. — Make and freeze a lemon water ice; stir 
into it 4 oz. of preserved ginger cut into small pieces, and 2 table- 
spoons of the ginger syrup, and pack down. 

LEMON SHERBET. — Take 4 cups water, 2 cups of sugar, juice 
of 6 lemons, and 1 tablespoon of gelatine. The gelatine should be 
dissolved in part of the water, added to the other ingredients, 
strained and frozen. 

MILK SHERBET.— Mix 1 quart of milk, 1 cup of sugar and the 
juice of 2 lemons; then freeze. 

PINEAPPLE SHERBET.— Take 1 can 

of sliced pineapples, cut it in very small 
pieces, and cook until soft; add the juice of 
4 lemons (strained) and 1 cup sugar; cool, 
and add | lb. of candied cherries cut in small 
pieces; add cold water enough to make the 
mixture 8 quarts. Beat the wdiites of 4 eggs 
very stiff and mix with the sherbet just before 
freezing and freeze at once. This amount 
will serve 20 persons. 




PINEAPPLE. 



The Pineapple is a native of South America, but 
has been naturalized in many semi-tropical countries. The fruit is eaten fresh 
and although the taste is delicious it is not very digestible. It is very perishable. 
It contains little nutrition, having 89^ of water, 9% of carbohydrates, 0A% albumen- 
oids, 0.?>% fat and O.S^ mineral matters. When eaten uncooked they are best if pre- 
pared and placed on ice 2 or 3 hours before being served. 

VARIOUS SHERBETS.— If 2 cups of fruit juice are used to 2 
lbs. of sugar and 3 pints water, and it is cooked and prepared as di- 



440 ICE CREAM, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS 

reeled in the " Method of Making Water Ices and Sherbets," very 
fine sherbets can be made. Raspberry, strawberry, currant, apple, 
cherry, grape and pineapj^le juice all work well; or jelly can be used 
as there directed, but it takes rather more of the jelly than of the 
juice. The J^^'h^ of peach, apricot and nectarine can be used instead 
of the juice. The amount of sweetening can be altered if any of the 
juices require it. 

SORBET. — Take 1 quart water and 2 cups sugar, and boil 
together for 20 minutes; then add 1 cup orange juice, | cup lemon 
juice, and 1 can of grated pineapple; cool, strain, and freeze to a 
mush. Serve as soon as possible after freezing. This can l)e varied 
by substituting 1 pint of strawberry or raspberry juice for the other 
flavors. 



HOME CANDY MAKING. 

f ^Y ANDY can ho made at home for ^ its cost at stores, and when 
I y^ so made you know it is jwre, which unfortunately is not the 
L J case with some of that S(jld by the trade. Ladies who de- 
light in making cake, preserves, etc., may easily add this to 
their other accomplishments. A few failures at first should cause no 
discouragement, as knowledge comes by experience. As candy will 
absorb moisture from the air in damjD weather, which interferes with 
its hardening, choose dry weather to make it. 

The Materials and Tools. — Confectioner's powdered sugar is the best 
to use for uncooked candies as it is prepared expressly for this pur- 
pose. It is a kind of powdered sugar much finer than the ordinary 
powdered sugar. When the confectioner's sugar is not easily ob- 
tained the ordinary powdered or fine granulated can be used. For 
the kind of sugar to use for cooked candies see what we say under 
"Fondant." 

Have nuts or fruit thoroughly dry before using them in can- 
dy. Slightly salting most nuts before using them will improve the 
flavor of the candy. If almonds are to be pounded they will pulver- 
ize more readily if after being blanched they are well dried in an 
oj)en oven. 

Oil, or washed butter is the best to use in greasing tins for deli- 
cate candies like macaroons, kisses or ratafias, as salted butter or lard 
is apt to imijart an unpleasant taste. 

Porto Rico UKjlasses of a medium grade is best for candy; or use 
the best New Orleans molasses. 

Unsweetened chocolate can he used for caramels and similar 
candies, but confectioner's sweet chocolate is better to use to dip 
candies in. 

Many ladies are bewildered by the list of tools and their names, 
but good results can be obtained with a small sauce=i)an, and a silver 
spoon and fork, although a few other things are an advantage and 
can be obtained if candy is to be made often. The sauce^pan should 
not be iron, but brass, copper, tin or enamel will do; 2 or 3 small 
wooden paddles will be useful. A thermometer costing ^2.00 to 
12.50 for testing sugar will be convenient if much candy is made, 
but as there are other tests it is not essential. A marble slab with a 
smooth top will be a convenience but a large meat plate can be used 

417 



448 HOME CANDY MAKING 

for sinall quantities if you haven't that. Candy tongs and candy 
dippers will also be an advantage, and so will a stout candy hook 
fastened to the wall on which to pull candies. Any blacksmith can 
make such a hook, using f inch iron, about 14 inches long, bending 
it into the shape of a fish hook, sharpening the point, and flattening 
the other end and boring 3 screw holes in it. Fasten it up about 5 
feet from the floor. 

In making candy use a vessel deep enough to hold it when it 
boils up, and lift it from the fire when it is in danger of boiling over. 
Watch carefully to keep it from burning. 

In Pulling candy have the hands well greased, throw the candy 
over the hook and pull it towards you; as a rule, take hold of the 
candy firndy, and make that move without sliding the hands over it 
or you will blister the hands; as soon as the candy seems likely to 
break, throw it over the hook again, and continue i3ulling it thus 
until it is white and nearly cold. 

Greasing the hands is better than flouring them when handling 
candy as the flour is apt to unpleasantly affect its flavor, 

Ccloring.— For this use vegetable colors only, and they are better 
prejiared at home than when bought at the stores. For preparing 
various colors see "Frosting" for cakes. For amber or light hroivn, 
use a little caramel. For carmine or pink, use some of the cochineal. 
For green use more or less of the spinach green, according to the 
shade desired. For yellow use safPron, or grated orange rind, which 
is better, and so on. Only a little coloring matter is needed. 

Flavorings. — These should be selected with care. Flavorings for 
fondant should be as strong as possible and then use but little, be- 
cause fondant liquifies so easily. Many of the flavorings given in 
our article on flavorings in the introduction to the chapter on 
" Cake " can be used. The tea, Bedford, laurel and citronelle, 
will be found excellent. If chocolate is used it will be an advan- 
tage to add a little vanilla. For ordinary candies 5 cents worth 
of oil of cloves, cinnamon, wintergreen, lemon or peppermint will 
flavor 50 lbs. of candy. Add flavors the last thing, or when the candy 
is nearly cold, as their strength is wasted if added while it is hot. 

BOILING SUGAR — In boiling sugar it is well to understand 
the different " degrees," as the confectioners call them, through 
which the sugar passes. There are 12 of these degrees called small 
thread, large thread, little pearl, large pearl, tlie blow, the feather, 
the soft ball, the hard ball, the soft crack, the crack, the hard crack, 
and ilie caramel. Let us examine this a little, but remember that 



HOME CANDY MAKING 449 

in Handling sugar skilfully much judgment is needed. Suppose 
we put on the stove 3 lbs. of sugar and 2 cups of water and stir till it 
dissolves. After boiling a few minutes it will approach the first de- 
gree called thread, and as it passes from 1 degree to another quite 
rapidly it must be watched closely and tested often but without stir- 
ring it. 

The thread degree is known by dipping the forefinger into the 
syrup, or touching it to the syrup adhering to a small stick which 
has been dipped in; then touch the forefinger with the thumb, and 
draw the fingers apart; if a fine thread is formed which breaks at a 
shoi't distance, and remains on the finger and thumb as a drop, it 
has reached the small thread. Boil a little longer, repeat the test, 
and a longer thread will be drawn known as the large tJtread. This 
is the finger test. A thermometer will show about 220°, 

The pearl degree is tested the same way. When the thread 
reaches from the thumb to the finger, ivithout breaking, as they are 
drawn apart, it has reached the small pearl, and when it will spin 
across as far as the thumb and finger can be separated, it has reached 
ih.e large pearl. Another sign is that the syrup shows bubbles on 
the surface, but this is more of a hint than a test. The thermometer 
will show 226''. 

The blow degree is tested by dipping a skimmer into the syrup, 
shaking it a little, and blowing through the holes; if small bubbles or 
air bladders appear on the other side the bloiv is reached. It will be 
230° by the thermometer. 

The feather degree is tested in the same way, but more bubbles 
are produced; another test is to dip in the skimmer, shake it over the 
pan, and then give it a sudden flirt away from you, and the syrup will 
fly off like feathers, or more j)roperly in threads. At this stage there 
is not enough water left to hold the sugar in solution, and it will 
manifest a tendency to crystallize or grain. The thermometer will 
show 236°. 

The ball degree is tested by dipping the forefinger in a basin of 
ice water, then take a little syrup on the finger-tip and plunge it into 
the water again, and roll it with the thumb; if it forms a soft ball it 
has reached the soft hall (at 240°). This is the point at which to 
use it for mint cream drops. When a larger and harder ball is 
formed, which sticks unpleasantly to the teeth on being bitten, the 
hard ball degree is reached (at 248°). 

The crack degree is tested in the same way, and if the sugar adher- 
ing to the finger breaks with a slight noise, and does not adhere to 
the teeth, it has reached the soft crack; the thermometer will show 

29 



450 HOME CANDY MAKING 

252"^. On boiling it up again, and testing the same way, the crack 
degree will be reached at 260''; at 290'' the syrup will break short 
and brittle, cracking like an egg shell, and is then known as the Juird 
crack degree. 

The caramel* degree soon follows, and the syrup loses its white- 
ness and turns a light straw color. A few drops of some acid, 
like vinegar, lemon juice or tartaric acid, should be added now to 
prevent its graining, and the pan should be quickly taken from the 
stove and set into cold water to prevent the syrup from burning, or 
it will soon become a dark brown and be spoiled. At the caramel 
stage the sugar will snap like glass on being dipped into water. 

Hints. — Dropping in the acid is called greasing the syrup. Do 
not add too much or you will spoil it. Confectioners have a saying 
that "there are 20 different ways to grease syrup, but none to make 
it grain when greasy." 

A small piece of butter put into the pan will prevent the syrup 
from rising over the sides, and will grease or smooth it, and thus act 
like the acid in keeping it from graining. 

For testing the syrup a small round stick is sometimes used in- 
stead of the finger; dijj it into the cold water, then into the syrup, 
and then into the water again. Have the water close by, and be sure 
it is cold or it will not test wxdl. If the water is cold enough and the 
fingers are held in it till cold, then dipped into the hot syrup and in- 
stantly plunged into the cold water again, they will not burn when 
used to test even boiling syrup. 

Keep the sides of the pan clear from crystals of sugar by wiping 
them off with a damj) sponge or flannel, and do not let the crystals 
droj) into the j)an, or they will cause granulation. In doing this do 
not let the fingers touch the syrup or they will be burned. One 
washing down is generally enough, but repeat if necessary. 

If at any time you boil the syrup a little too much, or produce a 
degree beyond what you wish for, put in a little water and boil it up 
again. Sugar that has been boiled too often, however, loses many of 
its good qualities. After dissolving the sugar do not stir the syrup; 
there will be danger of making it granulate if the jjan is shaken 
while it is boiling. Sugar which has grained can be boiled again 
and used for taffy or cream- candy. 

Do not set candy in a refrigerator to cool it, but in a cool,- dry 
place. Air-tight boxes are the best in which to keep candy. 



*The name "Caramel" is derived from a Count Albufage Caramel, of Nismes, 
France, who discovered this stage of boiling. 



HOME CANDY MAKING 451 

FONDANT OR CREAM CANDIES. 

FONDANT OR CREAM.— Fondant is the foundation for almost 
all French candies, and can be easily made by the amateur so that it 
will look and taste as well as that made by the professional. Granu- 
lated confectioner's powdered or coffee A sugar can be used, but cof- 
fee A more generally gives good results. For a trial add |- teacup of 
water to 1 lb. coffee A sugar; let it stand an hour or so, and then add 
cream of tartar the size of a white bean, dissolving it first in a little 
cold water; now set the pan over a quick fire (be particular about 
that, as it is quite imf)ortant) and stir constantly until the candy be- 
gins to boil; then stop stirring at once. After it has boiled a few 
minutes drop some of it into cold water to test it; try it often, and 
when you find the candy can be gathered up in the fingers in a ball 
which does not at once soften when held (about the soft hall degree) 
it is ready to take from the fire, and should be very carefully poured 
into a j)an which has been sprinkled with cold water, and M'hich sets 
level. Be sure the candy is not stirred from the time it begins to 
boil until it is poured into the pan, as it would grain if stirred. 
Greasing the pan is often advised, but it is apt to affect the taste of 
the candy, and we have found moistening suiRcient. Let it remain 
without stirring or shaking until it is almost perfectly cold; then 
beat it constantly wnth a large sjjoon or x^addle. In a short time the 
candy will get white, and then begin to harden; now gather it into a 
mass and put it on a sprinkled marble slab if you have it; if not, 
knead it in the same pan in which it cooled, but in either case, knead 
it as you would bread dough for a few minutes with the hands. If it 
is not hard enough to knead, stir as long as you can with the spoon 
and then set away awhile and it may harden sufficiently to work; if 
not, add a little water and cook again, allowing the ball to cook a lit- 
tle harder than before. Remember that sugar passes very rapidly 
from one degree to another, and so must be tried often. When 
cooked eiiough, pour it into the pan and treat as before directed. If 
not boiled long enough the fondant will be too soft on attempting to 
knead it; if boiled too long it will harden too quickly, and be hard 
and lumpy. Skill in working it will come with practice and experi- 
ence. 

This fondant can be used for dipping, and if it is cooked 
enough it can be made into balls to be dipped in melted fondant. It 
can also be used for "patties." It can be made in quantities and 
kept in a stone or china dish or jar, well covered with waxed or but- 
tered pai^er to keep the air out, using it as needed; it will keep thus 
a week in cold weather. Do not scrape the sauce=pan after pouring 



452 HOME CANDY MAKING 

out the fondant; put a little boiling water in it, set on the stove, 
and it can soon be easily washed out. 

The above fondant will form the foundation for all your French 
candies. It can be colored with cochineal, saffron, etc., and flavored 
with any flavoring desired. In working these candies there is a 
chance for displaying one's taste and skill. It can be. made into 
rolls, and pieces sliced off, or made into cubes, or formed into any 
shape to imitate French candies. As French candies are nearly all 
made by hand, you can notice their forms and imitate them. We ex- 
plain some of the most popular forms for these candies, and you can 
easily devise others; there is no limit to the varieties which can be 
produced by varying the flavors, using noyeau, maraschino, tea, cof- 
fee, and other flavors less common than the vanilla and lemon. Va- 
riegated effects are produced by using fondant, variously colored, and 
so on. 

Melting Fondant. — In melting fondant put some of it in a cup and 
set it in a dish of boiling w^ater, instead of setting it directly on the 
stove; when melted, the cup can be held iii the hand while the dip- 
ping or dropping is being done. It is sometimes said that the cup 
must be kept in hot water during the clipping, but we have not found 
this necessary, for as soon as it hardens too much to use readily it can 
be set back in the hot water and softened again. If very hot, it may 
be too thin; if so, stir a minute till it thickens. If it is too thick, 
cautiously add a little hot water, 1 or 2 drops at a time, as a little too 
much water will spoil it for dipping candies, although it can be used 
for dipping fresh fruits. 

In using a fork for dipping candies, grease it well, and do not stick 
it into the article, but drop the ball or nut into the melted fondant 
and lift it out with the tines of the fork, using them like a spoon; 
rest it a second, to drain, on the edge of the bowl, and then deftly 
droi^ the coated candy onto the oiled paper. 

ORANGE OR LEMON CREAMS — Grate the yellow rind of an 
orange carefully into a plate, and add the juice of -J an orange and ^ 
a lemon, and just a dash of tartaric acid; then mix it with enough 
confectioner's powdered sugar to make a stiff paste, form it into little 
balls, and set away to dry for a few hours; then melt a little fondant 
in a cup as before directed, and drop in each little ball, lift it out 
with a fork, and lay it on oiled paper. If the cream gets too thin to 
cover the balls well, let it cool a minute; if it gets too thick warm it 
again. 

Lemon Creams are made by using lemon in the same way. 



HOME CANDY MAKING - 453 

BALLS — Fondant can be melted and an equal amount of alm- 
ond paste stirred into it; this can be formed into bails, and these 
balls dipped into melted fondant as directed for orange creams. By 
flavoring this melted fondant with coffee, tea, etc., various effects can 
be produced, which will be novel and attractive. 

WALNUT CREAMS — Melt a little fondant in a cup as before 
di]ected; color it with cochineal, and flavor with vanilla or not, as 
preferred; then drop in walnut meats, one at a time, taking them out 
on the tines of a fork, and placing them on buttered paper to harden; 
then repeat the operation giving each one a second coat. Another 
way is to flavor a little fondant with vanilla, form it into small balls, 
press the 2 halves of a walnut on opposite sides of each one, and set 
it on an oiled dish to harden. If the nuts are slightly salted before 
being used it will improve the flavor. 

Almond Creams can be formed by using almonds instead of wal- 
nuts. 

CHOCOLATE CREAMS.— Flavor a little fondant with vanilla 
and roll it into balls the size of walnuts; then take some confection- 
er's sweetened chocolate, heat it, and mix in enough welhbeaten 
white of egg to make a smooth, thick paste; dip each little ball into 
this paste, and lift it out with a fork and drop it onto oiled paper; if 
the white shows through, add more chocolate. Let the balls dry for 
some time. 

RASPBERRY CREAMS.— Mix a little raspberry jam with 
enough confectioner's powdered sugar to form a stiff paste, and 
roll it into little balls between the palms of the hands; then melt a 
little fondant as before directed, color it with cochineal, and dip in 
these balls as directed for " Orange Creams," giving each ball 2 coats 
if needed. 

Strawberry Creams can be made with strawberry jam the same 
way. I 

MAPLE SUGAR CREAMS. — Grate fine maple sugar and mix 
it with fondant to suit the tas-te, and form into any shape desired. 
The walnut creams are very nice made with maple sugar. 

COCOANUT CREAMS.— Take ^ cup grated cocoanut, 1 cup con- 
fectioner's powdered sugar and 5 teaspoons of miHi; mix, form it 
into little balls, let them dry 3 or 4 hours, and dip them in melted 
fondant as directed for " Orange Creams."' These are very nice cov- 
ered with maple sugar fondant. 

FRUIT CREAMS — Take some fondant and, while it is warm, 
work in grated cocoanut, or finely=chopped citron, currants, figs, or 



454 HOME CANDY MAKING 

other fruit; it can then be formed into balls, bars, or flat cakes, and 
these set aside to dry. 

Dates and Cherries can be cut in two, and the stones or seeds 
taken out, and little balls of flavored fondant put inside; then -press 
them together, roll them in granulated sugar, and set to dry. A deli- 
cious confection is also produced by putting salted almonds inside, 
instead of the fondant. Try it. 

Canned Plums or Figs can have the skins and stones removed, then 
be rubbed to a paste with confectioner's jjowdered sugar and a trifle 
of cream of tartar added; then form into balls, and dip as directed for 
"Orange Creams." 

CREAM=COATED FRUITS.— Melt some fondant, and add any 
flavoring desired, only select that which will go well with the fruit 
to be dipped. The fondant can also b6 colored, if desired, to suit 
one's fancy. A fondant which is too soft for making the balls or cen- 
ters for candy, can be used for this purpose. Graph's, currants, cher- 
ries, strawberries, raspberries, and other fruit, can then be dipped 
into the prepared fondant, dipping each berry separately, and laying 
them to dry on oiled paj)er, or set them in the little paper cases if you 
have them. Select choice fruit for this jDurpose, Fruit thus dipped 
is quite attractive for dessert or breakfast. Oranges also may. be 
l^eeled, each carpel separated carefully without breaking the skin, 
and then dipped in melted fondant, which is colored with grated 
orange rind and thinned with orange juice This process is new and 
good. 

PATTIES. — These are simply melted fondant, flavored as 
desired, and formed into droj)s or patties the size of a half dollar; 
they will be hard enough to eat in ^- hour. By using different flavors, 
as peppermint, wintergreen, etc., numberless varieties can be pro- 
duced. 

UNCOOKED CREAM OR FONDANT.— Pass 2 or 3 lbs. of XXXX 
powdered sugar through a sieve, shape it like a cone on the table, 
make a well in the top, put in a little water, work in sugar till it is 
absorbed, put in a little more, and keep on thus doing until a smooth, 
stiff paste is formed. While doing this, work in a little vanilla or 
any other flavor desired. This will serve as a foundation for any of 
the candies for which " Fondant" is used, but it cannot be melted to 
use as a coating. 

By varying this uncooked cream a little a variety of fine candies 
can be produced. Thus lemon cr'eains can be made by working up 
the sugar with lemon juice and a little grated rind; then form them 



HOME CANDY MAKING 455 

into creams. Or use orange juice and rind for orange creams. Or 
use any fruit juice instead of the water for mixing, such as pineap- 
ple, raspberry, straicherry, etc.; the flavor is thus easily varied. 

Cream Walnuts, Dates, Figs, Cherries, etc. — These can be made from 
the uncooked fondant as follows: Roll some of the uncooked fondant 
between the hands into a stri^j about 1 inch in diameter, and then cut 
the strip into sections about 1 inch long, and, using the hands, roll 
these into balls, then take each one, press the 2 halves of a walnut on 
the sides opposite each other, and put them in a jDan in rows as fast 
as formed; set them aside to harden a few hours and they will be 
ready to use. To prepare cherries, figs, or dafes, take out the seeds 
after cutting them in two, put in a piece of cream, roll them in the 
hands, and set in rows on a greased dish to harden. If desired, they 
can be rolled in granulated sugar as fast as formed, to coat the sur- 
face; then set aside to harden. 

CREAM CANDIES.— Take the whites of 1 or 2 eggs, add an 
equal quantity of cold water, and stir in enough confectioner's pow- 
dered sugar to knead well. Flavor to taste. 

Chocolate Creams can be made by flavoring some of this paste, 
forming into balls, and dipping it into melted chocolate; grate 
the chocolate, put it in a dish, and set that in a pan of boiling water 
till melted; after di^Dping in the creams, any kind of nuts, figs, or rai- 
sins can be pressed on to^). 

A great variety of candies can be formed from this cream, as 
it is in reality only an uncooked " Fondant,"' and will serve as the 
foundation for any of the candies previously given for which " Fond- 
ant" is used, but it cannot be melted for use as a coating. 

Varying the Cream — This paste is varied sometimes by using 
milk instead of water, and by beating the egg. Take the white of an 
egg and an equal quantity of milk; beat the egg, add the milk, and 
form to a paste with confectioner's powdered sugar as above directed; 
this paste when done is handled the same as the other paste. Gum 
arahic is used sometimes instead of the white of egg; a jiaste is 
formed by mixing the gum arable with confectioner's powdered sugar, 
and the paste thus formed is worked up in numberless ways. There 
are many slight changes in making the paste or cream, but the re- 
sults are very similar. 

LOZENQES. — Wintergreen lozenges can be made of the above 
cream by flavoring it with wintergreen, rolling it out thin, and cutting 
out the lozenges with a little tin cutter. Various other lozenges can 
be produced by using different flavors, and they can also be tinted 
with different colors, if desired, for a variety. 



456 HOME CANDY MAKING 

BONBONS — Make a paste by working confectioner's powdered 
sugar into gum arabic water, and flavor it with vanilla; form it into 
balls and let them dry. Then dip each ball into a cream made of the 
beaten whites of eggs and the confectioner's sugar, flavored and col- 
ored with chocolate. This last cream should be thin. By varying 
the flavorings, using different colors, etc., an endless variety may be 
made. 

CREAM NUT CANDY — Mix |- lb. coffee A or granulated sugar in 
1 teacup of sweet cream, and heat slowly on the stove till the sugar 
is dissolved; then boil 5 minutes, and stir in -| lb. of nut kernels, 
which should be finely grated or chopped; then boil 10 minutes, and 
pour it onto the buttered plates; cut it into sc^uares when partly 
cool; it will harden in about 2 days. 

MARSH=MALLOWS — Take 4 oz. of the best white gum arabic, 
dissolve it in 1 cup of water and strain it; then add a full | cup of 
powdered sugar, set it on the stove, and continually stir until the 
mixture is about as thick as honey, and the sugar is well dissolved; 
the well-beaten whites of 2 eggs should then be added gradually, and 
stirred until the mixture becomes thinned and will not stick to the 
finger when touched; flavor to taste with lemon, rose, wintergreen or 
anything preferred. Pour it to cool into a square tin 
pan dusted with corn^starch. Cut into squares when 
cold, and dust each one with corn-starch. This will 
keep best in tin boxes. 

NOUGAT — Make the marsh^mallow paste as above 
directed, and then stir in ^ lb. of almonds blanched 
and cut fine; set to cool as before; then cut, when cold, 
into long bars and wrap in waxed paper. Hazel-nuts, 
pisfacJiio-nufs, etc., can be used at times for a variety. 

COCOANUT CREAM CANDY.— Mix the milk of 1 
cocoanut and 1^ lbs. coffee A or granulated sugar, and 
heat slowly until the sugar is dissolved; then boil 5 
minutes, add the grated meat of the cocoanut, and boil 
10 minutes longer, stirring continually; pour on buttered plates .o 
harden, and when it begins to harden, cut into squares. It will 
harden in about 2 days. 

MISCELLANEOUS CANDIES, ETC. 

GLACES. — Take 2 cujjs granulated sugar, 1 cup water, and ^ 
teaspoon of cream tartar; boil it to the "crack" degree, that is, so 
that it will break when in cold water, and will not stick to the teeth 




COCOANUT 
AND BLOSSOM. 



HOME CANDY MAKING 457 

when eaten, and set the vessel containing it into a basin of hot water 
to keep it warm; if it gets too cool while being used, it can be 
reheated twice, but it will not soften after that. Into this mixture 
can be dipj)ed nuts, such as almonds, peanuts, walnuts, etc., or fruits 
like grajjes, cherries, dates, figs, sections or carpels of oranges, etc. 
Have the fruit or nuts dry before dipping them, and dip them one at 
a time. Grapes and cherries can be dijjped in by their stems; nuts 
and so on, can be dropped in and lifted out on the welhgreased tines 
of a fork. Lay them to dry on greased paper or pans, or on a sieve 
also greased. In damp weather the atmosphere is apt to make them 
sticky, and even in dry weather they should be kept in an airtight 
jar or tin box. Some of the fruits are best eaten within a few hours 
after being prepared. 

TAFFY (Lemon). — Put 1 cup of water and 1| lbs. coffee A sugar 
over the fire; stir until dissolved, then add ^ teaspoon of cream 
tartar; wipe down the sides of the pan with a damp cloth or sponge 
to remove the crystals, and boil until it reaches the "crack" degree; 
then turn it into shallow greased pans to cool, sprinkling on 1 tea- 
spoon of lemon extract. Mark into squares with a sharp, greased 
knife, when it is partly cold. Or, it can be turned onto a well= 
greased slab, and when the edges cool a little they should be turned 
in toward the center, repeating this every few minutes until it is cool 
enough to handle. Then pull it as previously directed for pulling 
candy. If it is pulled, the flavoring extract is best sprinkled on a 
little at a time during the pulling. Then take it off the hook, pull it 
into long strijjs, and cut these into little blocks 3 or 4 inches long; 
set them in a cool place on greased pans to cool. 

Vaniiia Taffy can be made in the same way, but flavor with vanilla 
instead of lemon. 

Molasses Taffy — Boil 1 quart of New Orleans molasses for 30 min- 
utes in a large pan, so that it will not run over, stirring continually; 
then add ^ teaspoon baking soda, and boil it to the " crack" degree; 
then add 1 teaspoon lemon juice and pour it into shallow, well- 
greased pans or a platter to cool; when partly cool it may be marked 
into squares or jDuUed to a bright golden color, and finished as 
directed for other taflies. 

Walnut Molasses Candy — Make the molasses taff}-- as just directed, 
and when it gets to the "crack,." degree, stir in all the walnut ker- 
nels it will hold (have the walnuts perfectly dry); pour it into well- 
greased pans to cool; cut a lemon in two, and with the flat side press 
the candy down smooth; cut it into bars with a welhgreased knife, 
when partially cool. 



458 HOME CANDY MAKING 

Peanut Molasses Candy can be made the same way, but use peanuts 
instead of walnuts. 

Everton Taffy. — To 1 lb, cofPee A or granulated sugar, add 1 tea- 
cup of water; cream ^ lb. of butter and have it ready, and when the 
sugar is dissolved stir it in; flavor with lemon, cook to the "crack" 
degree, turn it into greased pans, and with a greased knife mark into 
blocks when partly cold. 

PLAIN MOLASSES CANDY.— Take 2 cups of molasses, 1 cup 
of brown sugar and 1 tablespoon of butter, and boil until it will hard- 
en in cold water; then stir in 1 tablespoon of vinegar, iDour it on the 
buttered plates, and pull as soon as cool. 

Adding the sugar makes the candy more brittle; if white sugar is used instead 
of brown, the candy will be whiter, and if a teaspoon of soda is stirred in well, just 
before pouring out the candy, it will whiten it still more. The vinegar keeps it 
from graining, and lemon juice or tartaric acid would answer as well. The butter 
keeps it from rising over the sides of the pan as it boils, and makes it smoother; 
some people add a little sweet cream also. The idea that molasses candy should 
be stirred from the time it is put on the stove until it is taken off is erroneous. A 
tin lid placed over the pan as soon as it begins to boil, will keep in the steam 
which will wash the candy from the sides of the pan. When beginning to pull the 
candy it should be rather sticky, or else it will not be of the right consistency 
when done. After getting the mass into good shape, pull it briskly a few minutes 
while holding it over the stove, and the heat and the pulling combined will whiten 
it wonderfully. 

For Peanut Molasses Candy prepare the peanuts while the candy is 
cooking, lay them on buttered pans, and pour the candy over them 
when done; cut into blocks with a greased knife when it is slightly 
cooled. 

For Walnut Candy stir in a cup of walnuts just before removing 
it from the fire; then pour into greased tins and finish as above. 

BUTTER SCOTCH. — Take 3 cu^ds of white sugar, ^ cup of water, 
^ teaspoon of cream tartar and 1 tablespoon of butter; boil, without 
stirring, to the "crack" degree; add ^ teaspoon of soda and 8 drops of 
lemon extract, and turn it into welhgreased pans, having it about ^ 
inch thick; when partly cool, mark into inch squares with a welb 
greased knife. 

SWEET FLAG CANDY — Take .some sweet flag root, wash it, 
scrape thoroughly, slice very thin, and boil 10 minutes in twice as 
much water as there is of the flag; drain off the water, and for each 
cup of this extract add 1 cup thick maple syrup — or sugar will an- 
swer; stir well together, and cook till the. sugar grains. Excellent for 
colds. 

COUGH CANDY. — Break 2 oz. slippery elm bark into small l)its, 
add 1 cup water and 2 oz. flaxseed, and let it soak, stirring a few 



HOME CANDY MAKING 



459 



times, for 1 or 2 hours; strain, add 8 cui^s brown sugar, put it on the 
stove, stir till the sugar dissolves, and boil 5 minutes; put in 2 table- 
spoons of lemon juice and bring to the "crack" degree; pour it to 
cool into greased pans, and cut into small squares when partially cool. 
This is a valuable remedy for those troubled with throat affections, 
or who use their voices much, and a pleasant candy as well. 

PEPPERMINT DROPS.^Take 1 cup granulated sugar, moisten 
it with 2 tablespoons water; boil it 
5 minutes, then take from the fire 
and add cream of tartar the size of 
a pea; mix well, and add 4 or 5 
drops of oil of peppermint, and beat 
it briskly until the mixture whitens 
(have the cream of tartar and pep- 
permint measured and ready while 
the sugar is boiling), then drop 
it quickly onto oiled paper, in 
drops about the size of peas, or 
other sizes if preferred. When 
firm, they can be removed from the 
paper by moistening it on the 
under side, and lifting them off 
with a limber knife. Dry them 
in a warm place on a sieve, and keep in closely covered boxes. If 
IDowdered or confectioner's sugar is used the drops will be less bril- 
liant. If the sugar dust is separated from the granulated sugar with 
a hair sieve, it will be an advantage. If the cream gets too hard to 
drop from the spoon set it on the stove, stir till it gets thinner, and 
drop as before. 

Peppermint belongs to the mint family and grows abundantly in all temperate 
climates. It is a powerful stimulant aod the peppermint candies are very efficace- 
ous in relieving flatulence and nausea. 

For Ginger Drops proceed exactly the same as for peppermint, but 
instead of flavoring with peppermint use 2 teaspoons of Jamaica 
ginger. 

For Rose Drops flavor with 7 or 8 drops of essence of rose, and 
color it with 7 or 8 drops of the iDrejDared cochineal -given elsewhere 

Lemon Drops can be produced by flavoring it with 1 teaspoon of 
acetic acid; or proceed as follows: Use just enough strained lemon 
juice to dissolve 1 cup of sugar; boil to a thick syrup, drojj onto 
greased i^lates, and set in a warm place to harden. We prefer the 
first method. 




PEPl'EEMINT. 



460 HOME CANDY MAKING 

Wintergreen Drops can be made like peppermint drops, bat flavor 
with winterL,a-een, and tint with the prepared cochineal 

For Currant Drops moisten the sugar with currant juice instead of 
water; set it on the stove and melt, stirring constantly, but do not let 
it boil; then add a very little more sugar, warm it a moment with the 
rest, drop it on oiled paper, and finish like peppermint drops. 

By using raspherry or strawberry juice, instead of the currant 
juice, raspherry or strawberry drops are produced. 

Orange Drops Take the juice and grated rind of 1 orange, add a 

pinch of tartaric acid, and stir in enough confectioner's powdered 
sugar to work well; form it into balls the size of marbles. 

CARAMELS {Chocolate.) — Take 4 cups of brown sugar, 2 cups 
New Orleans molasses, | cup of milk, 2 cups Baker's chocolate (grat- 
ed), and butter the size of an egg; stir all together, and boil slowly 
over a slow fire until it cracks in water (the "soft crack" degree); 
add vanilla flavor and turn it about \ inch deep, into large, flat, well= 
greased tins; when nearly cold, mark it deeply into squares with a 
greased knife. Break apart when cold, and wrap in waxed paper. 

Maple Caramels. — Take 4 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup crushed 
maple sugar, 1 cup sweet cream; bring to a boil and add 1 tablespoon 
of butter and a pinch of cream tartar; cook slowly, with constant 
stirring, to the "soft crack" degree, and finish as directed for choco- 
late caramels. 

Nut Caramels. — Make the same as chocolate caramels and when it 
is cooked (to the "crack" degree) stir in about 1 11). of nuts, chopped 
fine; use walnuts, or walnuts and almonds mixed; then finish as with 
the chocolate caramels. 

Vanilla Caramels.— Cream 2 tablespoons ot butter, and work in 1 
cup brown sugar; then mix in 1 cup cream and 1 cuj) New Orleans 
molasses, and treat as directed for chocolate caramels, flavoring 
with 1 teaspoon of vanilla just before pouring out to cool. 

This can be made into sti-awberry caramel by flavoring with 
strawberry instead of vanilla, and working in a little red coloring. 

FRENCH CHOCOLATES.-^Melt some confectioner's sweetened 
chocolate in a cup set in hot water, and into it drop nuts of various 
kinds, or small pieces of candied fruit; lift out each piece with a fork 
and lay it on oiled paper to harden. A great variety of delicious and 
popular candies can be made thus, and they will keep longer than 
the French chocolates sold in the stores. 

HOARHOUND CANDY.— Boil about 1 oz. of the herb in 1^ 
cups water; then strain it, stir in 3 cups brown sugar, and when it 




HOME CANDY MAKING 461 

boils add 2 tablespoons of vinegar; boil until it is brittle when tested 
in cold water; pour it into greased pans, and mark into squares with 
a greased knife when partly cold. 

HONEY CANDY.— Take 2 cups coffee A 
sugar, water enough to dissolve it, and 4 table- 
spoons of strained honey; boil until brittle on 
1)eing dropped in cold water; stir in a teaspoon 
of nut kernels, and pour it to cool in greased 
pans. Or, for a variety, leave out the nuts and 
pull it while cooling. 

PEANUT CANDY.— Take 1 cup coffee A 
or granulated sugar, 1 tablesijoon of water, 
and boil till it will harden in cold water; add a peanut. 

pinch of cream tartar, and stir in 1 cup of 
shelled peanuts; finish as directed for hoarhound candy. 

The Peanut is a native of India but is now extensively grown in America. 
It will yield from 60 to 90 bushels or even more to the acre. It is an oily nut con- 
taining a good deal of nutrition, but it is rather difficult of digestion. 

BUTTERNUT BALLS.— Take some butternuts or beachnuts, 
l^ound them very fine in a mortar, and add a little allspice and nut- 
meg. Make a frosting as for cakes, and stir in enough of the mix- 
ture to make it thick enough to handle. Grease the hands, form this 
mixture into balls, and set on greased tins, allowing room for them 
to spread as they dry. 

FIQ CANDY. — Take 1^ cups water and 1 lb. coffee A or granu- 
lated sugar; boil until it is brittle when droi3j)ed in cold water; add 
1 teaspoon each of butter and vinegar, and pour it into greased pans 
on which slices of figs have been laid; put slices on top also. 

CRYSTALLIZED POPCORN.— Take 1 teacup coffee A or gran- 
ulated sugar, 'S tablespoons of water and 1 tablespoon of butter; boil 
to the " hard ball " degree, and then throw in 3 quarts of nicely 
popped corn; stir briskly until the candy is evenly distributed over 
the corn; take the kettle from the fire (be careful the corn does not 
burn) stir until it cools a little, and each grain will be separated and 
coated with crystallized sugar. 

Nut meats of any kind may be crystallized the same way. 

CRYSTALLIZED CHERRIES.— Prepare the sugar and bring it 
to the "hard ball" degree as directed for crystallized popcorn, and 
then pour it over some fine ripe cherries which have been stoned: 
move them about gently, to coat them nicely, and when almost cold, 
dry them in a cool oven or near the fire. 



462 HOME CANDY MAKING 

POPCORN BALLS.— Sort all the hard kernels out of popcorn; 
then take the amount of molasses needed, and boil it until it will 
hair or thread off the end of a spoon (the "feather" degree); jjour 
the hot molasses over the corn, mix well, and make into balls as soon 
as it cools a little, having the hands well greased. 

Corn^cake can be prepared by putting the mass while warm into 
greased tins, pressing it into thin sheets Muth greased rollers and 
afterwards cutting it into small square cakes. 

RATAFIAS. — Use | lb. of sweet almonds, ^ lb. bitter almonds, 2 
cups granulated sugar, whites of 4 eggs. Blanch, skin and dry the 
almonds; then pound them in a mortar with the white of 1 egg; then 
stir the sugar in gradually, and add the remaining whites of egg; 
beat thoroughly, and drop on tins covered with writing or cartridge 
paper, and bake about 10 minutes in a quick oven. The ratafias 
should be about the size of a large button when done, and as they 
spread very much in baking only a very little of the i^aste should be 
allowed for each one. Have them far enough apart on the paper so 
that they will not touch as they swell in baking. 

WHITE CANDY. — Take 2 cups granulated sugar, 1 cup water, 
and 1 tablespoon of vinegar; boil without stirring until it is brittle 
when dropped in cold water; pour into greased pans, and pull when 
cool enough, adding vanilla flavor as you pull it; form it into sticks, 
and set in a cool place till the next day. 

CRYSTALLIZED NUTS.— Select the finest nuts and lay them in 
welbbeaten white of egg, drain them, and again beat what white of 
egg drips off; then dij) them one by one into powdered sugar; 
lay a sheet of fine paper on a pan, place the nuts on it, and set in a 
cool oven; when the icing becomes firm, pile them on a dish, and 
keep in a cool, dry place. 

FROSTED, ICED OR CRYSTALLIZED FRUITS Select ripe, 

perfect fruit, and dip it in the well-beaten white of egg to which a 
little cold water has been added, or into thin gum arable water; then 
roll it in pulverized or fine granulated sugar; let it dry a little, and 
roll again, laying it on oiled paper to dry. Keep it in a cool, dry 
place until ready to arrange it for the table, as dampness may make 
it sticky. 

Currants, cherries, grapes, plums, peaches, or other fruit, may be 
thus prepared, and it is very attractive for the tea4able or dessert. 
Leave grapes or currants on the stem, and brush the fur off of 
peaches before frosting them. 



HOME CANDY MAKING 463 

ORANGE PEEL, CANDIED — Use thick peel and cut it in thin 
strij)S, then boil it, frequently changing the water until there is no 
bitter taste in the water (don't be alarmed at the amount of boiling 
required); drain thoroughly, then put in a kettle with sugar only, in 
proportion of 1 cup to the peel of a dozen oranges. Set the kettle 
on the back of the stove, and stir occasionally while the sugar dis- 
solves and the i^eel becomes candied and dry. Keep in a glass jar. 
Used instead of raisins in cake it gives a daintily^ flavored fruit cake. 




FRUITS AND NUTS. 

GREAT variety of fine fruits abound in our markets which in 
their season are cheap and easily obtainable. They may be 
considered as luxuries, because no fruit is essential to life, 
but they afford a pleasing variety to bills of fare, and they 
possess some value in themselves. While most highly prized by the 
inhabitants of warm countries they are craved and procured by those 
of temperate climates, often even at much expense. Fruit may be 
jorofitably eaten at least once a day. The juice, consisting largely of 
watery solutions of acid and sugar, is the most enjoyable part, and 
those varieties containing the most juice with the least cell structure 
are the most highly prized. Although judged by their chemical 
composition their food value is not large, fruits act beneficially on 
the system, when fully ripe and eaten in moderation, as they improve 
the appetite and promote a healthy condition of the vital organs. 

Nuts do not form a very important article of diet among any peo- 
ple with the exception of the cocoanut. Although judged solely by 
their chemical composition they should be very nutritious, they are 
difficult of digestion and are valuable principally for the oil which 
they contain. 

The most wholesome and nutritious fruits are the bland varieties, like apples, 
grapes, pears, strawberries, and gooseberries, although the latter, as well as cur- 
rants and raspberries, are less wholesome than the others. 

Stone fruits are apt to disagree with the stomach, but the more watery, like 
peaches and large plums, are better than those which are smaller and drier, like 
apricots and damsons. Bananas are wholesome. 

The skin of fruits, and the cellular parts in general, are not readily digested. 

The pulp of oranges renders them heavy. 

Fruit may be eaten with a meal or on an empty stomach. The quantity which 
should be taken depends on the kind. A healthy person may now and then eat the 
bland, nutritious fruits, as freely as any other wholesome food, but, as a rule, he 
will gain most if he eats but little, and takes it regularly. 

Whatever fruit is eaten uncooked, must be fully ripe, but not over=ripe. 

When eaten with a meal, fruit promotes digestion by its gently irritating ef- 
fect on the mucous membrane of the stomach and intestine. For a laxative effect 
it is best eaten in the early morning before breakfast, or between meals. Among 
the laxative fruits maybe mentioned oranges, figs, tamarinds, prunes, mulberries, 
dates, nectarines, apricots and plums. In the early morning an orange acts very 
decidedly as a laxative, sometimes amounting to a purgative, and may generally 
be relied on. Pomegranites, cranberries, blackberries, sumach berries, dewber- 
ries, raspberries, barberries, quinces, pears, wild cherries, and medlars are astrin- 
gent. Pomegranites are very astringent, and relieve a relaxed throat and uvula. 
Apples are correctives, useful in nausea and the vomiting of pregnancy; they at 
once relieve the nausea due to smoking. GrapeS and raisins are nutritive and de- 
mulcent, and very grateful in the sick chamber. 

Among the fruits which act as diuretics are, grapes, peaches, strawberries, 
whortleberries, prickly pears, black currants and melon seeds. Lemons, limes, 

464 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 465 

apples, gooseberries, red and white currants, pumpkins and melons are refriger- 
ants. 

Cooking removes much of the acidity from unripe fruit, and renders it lighter 
as well as njore palatable. Tiie acid of unripe fruit acts as an irritant poison, 
causing an excessive intestinal secretion with more or less irritation, and hence 
arises the resulting diarrhta. On the other hand, fruit which is over^ripe, in which 
fermentation has begun, frequently causes the same disorder, and should be 
equally avoided, although less easily avoided because the insidious beginning of 
decay is not easily recognized. 

The Acids in Fruit. — The pleasant flavor of many of the fruit sauces depends 
on blending the acids which fruits contain, with sugar, and much of the success of 
the various cooking operations in which they are used depends on the proper com- 
bination of these elements. If the acid was neutralized, as might easily be done 
with an alkali, the piquancy would be gone, and the product would taste insipid 
and flat. The aim, therefore, is not to wholly neutralize the acid, but merely to 
blend it agreeably with sweetening. 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS. 

Fruit for the table should be selected with care, and choose only 
that which is ripe and perfect. In arranging it for the table there is 
an opportunity to display one's taste and ingenuity. The garnishing 
requires attention. Arrange the fruit tastefully on dishes, with 
leaves between and around it, as the contrast of brilliantly colored 
fruits with nicely arranged fcjliage is very charming. The double= 
edged mallow, strawberry and vine leaves have a pleasing effect, and 
in winter the bay and laurel are sometimes used. For the breakfast 
table melons, oranges, and small fruits are generally served, but for 
the dinner table all fruits are served in their season. Serve v\"hole 
fruit in a raised dish, blending the colors harmoniously, and mix m. 
any pretty green leaves or vines. Arrange them conveniently for 
serving, and so that they will not fall out when moved. 

Have fruit fresh, and as cold as possible when served. That 
v/hich has stood for some days in a warm room is not very temj^ting. 
Pounded ice is an agreeable addition to a dish of raspberries, straw- 
berries, or currants. Pound it in a clean cloth until it is almost as 
fine as snow, and then spread it over the berries. If sliced fruits or 
berries are sprinkled with sugar and allowed to stand 1 or 2 hours be- 
fore serving, they will be much improved. 

Grape scissors, a melon knife and fork, and nut crackers should 
always be put on the table if there are dishes of fruit requiring their 
use. 

There are many very attractive ways of preparing fresh fruits for 
desserts, etc., which we explain elsewhere, such as "Frozen Fruit,'' 
"Frosted or Iced Fruit," " Glaces."' "Cream-Coated Fruit," "Fruit 
Molds," "Fruit Ice Creams," etc., which the reader can readily refer 
to. 

30 



466 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 



APPLES. — Choose those which are not too sour, and which have 
a pleasant taste; wipe them clean, or polish brightly with a cloth, 
and mix together different colors, like red and yellow, piling them up 
on a dish when they are to be served at the table. 

APRICOTS — These need only a few green leaves to garnish 
them. Pile them high on a glass or other dish. 

BANANAS. — These, if whole, should be lulled on either high or 
low dishes, and high in the center, with bright green leaves to make 
them look pretty. They are often mixed in with oranges and grapes. 
Bananas make a delicious dessert if the skins are taken off, and they 
are cut crossways into thin slices, and then sugar and cream served 
on them. Or, after slicing them, sprinkle on sugar and add a little 
orange juice. Alternate layers of bananas and oranges (peeled and 
sliced) with sugar on each layer are very nice. It will be an im- 
.provement to let the fruit get very cold, and cover with whipped 
cream when serving. Bananas and strawberries also go well to- 
gether. 

BERRIES — Choose the freshest. It is better not to wash them 
unless they need it, but pick them over, hull them, spread a layer in 
a dish, sprinkle with sugar, then put in another layer of berries, and 
so on alternately. Set them in a cold place until ready to serve, and 
then put on a layer of crushed ice. If necessary to wash them, use 
cold water, wash a few at once, and 
then hull them, handling as little as 
heed be. Do not stir them with a 
spoon nor drain them with a colander. 
Then s^^rinkle with sugar and set away 
as before. Do not wash berries after 
being hulled, as more or less juice es- 
capes with the hulling, and the less 
they are then disturbed the better. It 
improves their appearance to garnish 
them with a border of green leaves. 

Blueberries, blackberries, buckle-' 
berries, whortleberries, etc., are all 
served much the same way. 




VvHOETLEBEEEY. 



The Whortlebeeky is native to the north- 
ern parts of the world, and tliere are many 
varieties. The fruit contains about 77^ water, 
5.1% sugar and 1.3^ free acid. It is very whole- 
some. 

The Bluebekey belongs to the same species as the bilberry, whortleberry, etc. 



FEESH FRUITS AND NUTS 467 

It is found in most northern countries. It is a very wholesome and palatable 
fruit, and its composition is about the same as the whortleberry. 

CHERRIES. — These can be piled in rows and high like a pyra- 
mid. They are also nice if kept in clusters. Then garnish with 
green leaves if convenient. 

COCOANUTS. — These can be grated and served with either 
cream or jelly as preferred, or both can be used; or serve them with 
jelly or jam. For whatever dish cocoanut is to be used it will 
be more digestible if put to soak for a time in any lic|uid, 
such as milk, etc., which is to form an ingredient of the dish. 
Adding a little lemon juice is also to be recommended. Vanilla and 
rose=water are favorite flavorings for dishes made from cocoanut. 

CURRANTS. — When fully ripe these are delicious and attractive 
in appearance. Mix together the red and white on bunches, in alter- 
nate rows, with leaves bordering the outside; or pick them from the 
stem and sweeten them. They are delicious served with raspberries. 
They are nice crystallized or frosted. The method of preparing 
them is explained in our article on " Home Candy Making" (which 
see). 

DATES, FIGS, FRENCH PLUMS, ETC.— These are all served 
on small glass plates or oval dishes, piled high in the center. Gar- 
nish them with green leaves. 

GRAPE FRUIT OR SHADDOCK.— Peel in sections like the 
orange, remove the bitter M-hite membrane cov- 
ering the sections, break open the pulj) and 
serve. Sugar is sometimes added, and some- 
times it is sprinkled on and left for 1 or 2 hours 
or over night, but many prefer the fruit un- 
sweetened. This fruit is wholesome and re- 
freshing, and it deserves to be more highly 
appreciated, but by many the taste for it has to 
be acquired. 

RIPE FIGS. — Peel and slice fresh figs, and 
serve with pulverized sugar and cream. grape fruit tree. 

GOOSEBERRIES..— These should be piled high, but need no 
other arrangement, except a few green leaves for decoration. 

GRAPES. — Examine these carefully, and pick out all which are 
withered or unsound. Rinse them in cold water, Malagas especially. 
Have the bunches of medium size, dividing the large ones. They 
can be piled in a pyramid, with a' few hanging over the side of the 




468 



FKESH FKUITS AND NUTS 






MANGO TREE. 



dish. Different kinds mixed look well, by the contrast of colors, and 
their own or other green leaves can be placed at the 
edge of the dish. Divide the bunches with fruit 
scissors. 

THE GUAVA.— This is the fruit of a tree which 
grows in the tropics. It is an agreeable and whole- 
some fruit, its taste when quite ripe being not unlike 
that of strawberries and cream. The fruit is eaten 
raw, but is also made into jams and jellies. The 
rind is sometimes stewed with milk. The 
fruit is also eaten fresh with sugar and 
cream, and it can be preserved or canned like 
other fruit. 

THE MANGO.— The mango is a native 
of India, but grows in other tropical coun- 
tries. The fruit is finely flavored, sweet, 
cooling, and medicinal, especially if partaken 
of early in the morning, but it is too perisha- 
ble to transport to a distance. The unripe 
fruit is made into pickles often. 

MELONS. — These should be very cold when, served, and are 
best kept on ice a few hours before serving. They may be cut in 
strips and piled up on a platter, or merely cut ci'ossways. The ice 
should not be allowed to come in contact with the inside of the 
melon. Eat with a sjDoon or fork. They are eaten alone, or with 
salt, sugar or pei^per, si3rinkled on. 

CANTELOPES. — Chill by keeping them on ice before serving; 
cut them in two, remove the seeds, and serve a half to each person. 
Serve salt with them. Eat with a spoon. 

THE MULBERRY — This fruit although called a berry is in 
reality a spike. When to be used as a dessert it should be freshly 
gathered and so ripe as to drop from the tree. It has a fine flavor 
and a sweet,. sub^acid taste, and is succulent, sugary and rich. The 
fruit drops as soon as it is ripe and is eaten much like blackberries 
and raspberries which it resembles somewhat. It makes fine 
preserves. 

OLIVES. — These can be most attractively served by draining 
them and putting them in a small fancy dish on a bed of broken 
ice, with a small silver fork in the dish. They are served at din- 
ders, lunches and sujDpers, and are placed on the table at the begin- 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 



469 




THE OLIVE. 



ning of the meal and are left until it is over. If they are too salt 

let them soak in cold water an lionr before 

serving them. On taking them from the table 

put them in a bottle of slightly salted water, 

covering them comialetely to keep them from 

darkening in color. 

The Olive tree is a native of the south of Europe. 
The fruit is valuable in its ripe and unripe state. Unripe 
olives are pickled in various ways, being usually pickled 
in lime water which renders them softer and milder in 
taste. They are eaten to destroy the taste of viands pre- 
viously eaten, and to promote digestion. The well=known 
olive oil is obtained mainly from the external part of the 
ripe fruit. 

ORANGES — -These may be served whole, piled up like a pyr- 
amid or mixed in with bananas and grapes. If served whole they 
can be cut in two crossways, without peeling them; then eat with a 
spoon, sprinkling on sugar or not as preferred. Or they can be 
served cut in halves, and laid on green leaves; or with the peeling cut 
and rolled down. Or they can be peeled, divided into sections, the 
seeds taken out, and each one cut in 8 ipieces with a silver knife; 
then sprinkle on sugar just before serving. In Havana a fork is 
run into the orange from the stem end, which serves as a handle; 
then with a sharp knife the peel is cut in strips and turned down 
from the top, and the orange is eaten, which leaves the fibrous pulp 
on the fork. 

THE MANQOSTAN OR MAN= 
GOSTEEN.— This tree is a native of 
the tropical parts of Asia and Africa. 
The tree grows to about 20 feet in 
height, and it has a regular, tapering- 
form something like the fir. The fruit 
in size and shape resembles an orange. 
It is dark brown, s^Dotted with yellow or 
gray, and it has a thick rind. The 
fruit is very juicy and delicfously fla- 
vored, and it may be eaten freely with 
perfect safety. It is one of the most 
delicious of fruits. 

PEACHES.— These should have the fur wiped off, but any 
other garnish than a few green leaves is superfluous, as their own 
color is so rich. They make a beautiful center dish. Or they can 
be pared, sliced, granulated sugar sprinkled on, and served at once, 




MANGOSTAN OR MANGOSTEEN. 



470 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 



the skin will be so toueh 




PEESIMMON8. 



and cream passed for them. Some people think it an improvement 
to grate nutmeg over sliced peaches. Try it. Or they can be frozen 
or frosted by the methods we explain in our articles on " Ice Cream " 
and " Candy Making," and made very attractive. 

The Nectarine can be treated like the peach of which it is only 
a variety. 

PEARS — Wipe them with a cloth, and pile them high like a 
pyramid, with a few green leaves at the base. For eating, select fine 
grained pears. 

PERSIMMONS.— When dead ripe 
that the calix may be pulled out, and 
then the delicious contents may be 
taken out with a spoon, but it is very 
astringent unless /n//?/ rijje. 

The persimmons may be kept for 

some time by putting a layer of brown 

sugar in an earthen jar; then jiut in a 

layer of persimmons, then sugar, and so 

on with alternate layers; have sugar on 

top. Keep jaaper closely tied over the 

to J). 

Peesimmon is the fvuit of the Diospyros virghiiana. It grows in the Southern 
States, but is seldom found north of -40°. When green the fruit is very astringent, 
hnt when ripe, or when mellowed by frost, it is sweet and luscious. By a course of 
cross fertalization and selection the Japanese are said to have brought this fruit 
to great perfection. 

PINEAPPLES. — A handsome center^piece is formed with a pine- 
apple surrounded with oranges and grapes. A pineapple may be 
pared, and then holding it by the tuft, use a sliarp knife and start 
the fruit in thin slices and tear each piece from the hard central 
core; then cut them into small i^ieces, add sugar and allow it to 
stand in the refrigerator some time before serving, to form juice. 
Another way is to cut off the tuft, then cut the ]3ineapple into 
quarters lengthwise; take out the hard core, and grate off the fruit 
until the rind is reached. Pineapple forms a good desert served with 
lady fingers or slices of sponge cake in a row around the dish. 
The "strawberry" is considered the best, and the "sugardoaf " next. 
It is also nice served in layers with cocoanut and oranges, with sugar 
between the layers; after preparing, set in the refrigerator till ready 
to serve. 

The rind of pineapple contains an acid which will make the lips and mouth 
sore if it gets on them; therefore, peel it with one knife, and slice it with a clean 
fresh one. Salt is used as an antidote for the acid if it gets on the lips. 



FRESH FRUITS AND NUTS 



471 




POMEGBANITE. 




POMEQRANITES.— Remove tlie skin, take out the seeds, and 
carefully remove all the thin brown 
skin separating the sections; mix the 
seeds with finely pounded ice on a 
pretty dish, and serve. 

PoMEGRANiTE is native to Asia and 
probably Africa. It has never come into 
very extensive use in Europe or America. 
The pulp has a delicate, pleasant flavor, and 
its sub^acid juice makes it cooling and grate- 
ful in warm climates. The rind is very 
astringent (caused by the tannin it contains) 
and a decoction of it malves a good gargle 
for sore throiit, and is good for diarrhea. 
The tree grows to a height of lo or 20 feet. 
The pulp of tie fruit is of a reddisli hue and 
very refreshing. 

PLUMS. — Pile these in pyramidal form. A 
pretty effect is produced by adding sprays of nas- 
turtium leaves and blossoms. 

The Sloe is the parent of the plum. The leaves have 
been used to adulterate tea. The juice is sharp and astrin- 
gent, and the fruit, when ripe, makes good preserves. 

RAISINS. — Serve only the choice varieties on 
the table like the loose "Muscatels" or layer raisins. sloe. 

They may be served with candy and nuts, or almonds are sometimes 
blanched and strewed over them. 

Raisins contain more sugar and less acid than fresh grapes, and so are more 
nutritious but less refrigerant. If eaten too freely they are apt to derange the di- 
gestive organs. 

RASPBERRIES. — If very large and fine they are sometimes piled 
in rows in pyramidal form. Otherwise merely pile them in the center 
of the dish with a few green creepers about the edge. Some people 
prefer them with little or no sugar. Or jjrepare them as directed for 
" Berries." 

STRAWBERRIES — Put them in a pretty dish and garnish with 
some of their own green leaves. Large fine berries are served by the 
French without hulling; each one is taken by the hull and dipped in- 
to powdered sugar, which is passed with them, and then eaten. They 
are also nice put into a dish in alternate layers of berries and sugar; 
then whip together 2 cups cream, 1 cup of pulverized sugar and the 
whites of 3 eggs; flavor with strawberry or orange juice, and put it 
on top of the berries. Another way is to x^ut alternate layers of ber- 
ries and sugar in a dish; then take orange juice in the proportion of 
3 oranges to 2 pints of berries, pour it over, and set the dish in a 



472 



FKESH FRUITS AND NUTS 




PRICKLY PEAB. 



cool place for 1 or 2 hours. Sprinkle pounded ice on them just be- 
fore serving. 

PRICKLY PEAR.— Cut a slice off of each 
end, then peel it, and cut the pulp into slices. 
It can be sprinkled with powdered sugar and 
the juice of an orange squeezed on, or it can be 
eaten unseasoned. 

The Prickly Pear is the fruit of a species of cactus. 
It is of a purplish color and it is covered with spines so 
that it must be handled carefully, protecting the hand with 
a napkin. The fruit is freely eaten in Mexico and it is 
often imported from there. 

THE TAMARIND — This tree is native to 
the West Indies, but is cultivated in warm 
climates. The tree grows to a height of about 

40 feet. The pods are from 3 to 6 inches long and contain j)ulp and 
seeds. The pulp is juicy and acid. It contains citric, tartaric and 
malic acids, with potash, sugar etc. It makes a drink which is cool- 
ing and laxative. Tamarinds are best preserved by putting alternate 
layers of tamarinds and v/hite sugar into a stone jar; cover with sugar 
and seal tight. 

NUTS. 

If served with the shells on nuts should be wiped. They are 
merely piled high in the center of the dish 
with or without green leaves around the edge. 
It is best to crack them, however, and serve 
them with salt. Nuts with a tough skin, like 
almonds, should be blanched. Almonds, Al- 
erts, Brazihnuts, hickory nuts aud walnuts, go 
well with raisins. Nut crackers should always 
be provided if any of the nuts are uncracked. 

Brazil-nuts are the seeds of a majestic and beautiful 
tree which grows to a height of 100 to 120 feet. When 
fresh the fruit is agreeable. It contains a very large 
amount of oil. They are rather difficult of digestion. brazil=nut. 

CHESTNUTS, ROASTED.— Wash the chestnuts, make a slit in 
the side of each one; boil 10 minutes in water enough to cover them; 
then drain and bake in a dripping pan for 10 minutes in a hot oven. 
Serve hot with salt. 




• SUGARED ALMONDS. — Put into a sauce-pan ^ cup sugar and 
I cup boiling water; boil ^ hour, and add 1 cup blanched almonds; 
boil till the sugar grains (about 5 minutes) stirring constantly; then 
turn them on a buttered dish to cool. 



DRIED FRUITS 



473 



siig-r 

water 

then 



For Glazed Almonds proceed the same way, but after the 
grains cook until it begins to brown; then add ^ cuj) boiling 
and cook until that evaporates and they are a dark brown 
spread them in a shallow pan, and dry them in the oven. 

SALTED ALMONDS.— Shell, blanch and 
dry the almonds; allow 2 teaspoons butter for 
each cuj) of almonds; put these in a frying pan 
or baking=dish and cook, with moderate heat, 
until the almonds are a delicate brown, stirring 
frequently — it will take about ^ hour. Then 
sprinkle with salt. Put them on at the begin- 
ning of the meal and serve them with the crack- 
ers and cheese. 

Peanuts can be salted the same way, first 
removing the shell and brown skin. Walnuts can be salted the 
same way also. 




ALMOND TREE. 



DRIED FRUITS. 



Many people do not appreciate the value of dried fruit. A large 
part of the water evaporates when the fruit dries, and the nutritive 
portions are left in a more concentrated form. The percentage of 
nutritive elements in dried apples approaches that of bread, but one 
great drawback to the use of dried fruit is that as ordinarily dried 
many fruits lose much of their peculiar and delicate flavor. Many of 
the fruits are readily and easily dried and can thus be kept for future 
use. Cherries and peaches are (next to apples) about the best of the 
dried fruits. 

Fruits like apjjles, etc., can be dried by putting them on a kind 
of sievedike holder, and submitting them for 3^- hours to the action 
of a cold air blast. Thus dried they are superior to fruits dried by 
the sun or hot air. 

The new process of preparing fruit by evaporation has overcome many of the 
objections to the old tasluoned dried fruit, and its sale has increased enormously. 
It is probable that the sale of evaporated fruit will in the near future partly or 
possibly largely sup;ilant canned fruit in the market, as it possesses many advan- 
tages. It is healthful and its use desirable. 

Fruit which is to be dried should be ripe and sound. It should 
be spread in a single layer on boards or in shallow boxes. Insects 
may be kept away by covering it with mosquito netting. Keep it 
spread in the hot sun until it is fully dry. as indicated by its turning 



474 DRIED FRUITS 

dark; never set it out in damp or cloudy weather, and always bring it 
in before sunset, to XJi'event the dew from falling on it. The oven is 
an excellent place to dry any fruit, as it dries more quickly, and is 
not so much exiwscd to insects; but do not let the oven become hot 
enough to scorch the fruit at all. Fruits are still further preserved 
often by the use of sugar, as in some of the recipes which follow. 

Keeping it. — Dried fruit should be kept in a cool, di-y place, away 
from the light, tightly tied in thick X3aper bags, or in closely covered 
jars. By turning it occasionally into a tin pan and setting it in a 
hot oven for a few minutes, and then tying it in the bags again, there 
will be no trouble with worms, but to reheat it thus, injures its flavor 
and makes it dark colored. Security against moths is secured by 
using pajDer sacks, tightly tied, or a box or barrel lined wnth paper. 
To avoid frequent opening of large packages it is best to keep a 
small c[uantity on hand in fruit jars. It is sometimes advised to 
scatter sassafras bark among dried fruit to keep away the worms; but 
its flavor will spoil the fruit for many people, so that it is better not 
to use it. 

To cook dried fruit let it soak a few hours, or over night, in soft 
water, and it will then need less boiling; then slip it carefully into an 
aluminum, earthen, granite or porcelainlined sauce pan, and cook it 
in the same water until done, thus keeping it in shape; it is best not 
to add the sugar for sweetening until about 5 minutes before taking 
it from the stove. Another good way is to drain the w^ater off when 
soaked, add sugar to make a syrup, let it boil up, turn in the soaked 
fruit and cook until tender; it equals canned fruit when thus cooked. 

DRIED APPLES. — The ajjples should be j3ared, cut into slices, 
and dried in the sun or the oven as above exi^lained. 

Pears and Quinces can be dried the same as apples. 

Apples, to Skin. — By pouring scalding water on apples the skin 
may be easily slip^jed off and much labor in paring them saved. 

DRIED BLACKBERRIES.^The cheapest way to preserve them 
is to carefully dry them in the sun as you would aj)ijles. Thus pre- 
served they make excellent pies. Keep them in a dry, cool place. 

DRIED CHERRIES. — (1) Cherries may be put into a slow oven 
and thoroughly dried before they begin to change color. They 
should then be taken out of the oven, tied in bunches, and stored 
away in a dry place. Particular care must be taken that the oven is 
not too hot. (2) Another method is to take the stones and stems 
from ripe cherries; spread them on flat dishes, and dry them in a 
warm oven or the hot sun; pour whatever juice may have run from 



IDRIED FRUITS 



475 




them, a little at a time, over them; stir them about, that they may 
dry evenly. When they are perfectly dry, line boxes or jars with 
white paper, and pack them close, in layers; strew on a little brown 
sugar, fold tho paper over, and keep them in a dry place. (3) An- 
other plan for cherries is to take equal quantities of cherries and 
sugar; boil the sugar to a caramel; have the cherries stoned, throw 
them into the caramel, and let them cool. Then take them out and 
put them in a sieve to dry, in a slow oven, watching them carefully. 

DRIED CITRON — Pare and quarter it, and 
boil it in water until it is clear, and so tender 
that a broom=straw wnll readily jDenetrate it; 
then have ready a syrup of sugar and water, 
drain the citron, and boil it in the syrup until 
the sugar permeates it; then dry it slowly, 
spread out on dishes, turning it occasionally, 
and sprinkling on powdered sugar several times. 
When sufficiently dried, pack it in alternate 
layers of citron and sugar, in boxes and jars. 
It can be used for cakes, etc. citron. 

The Citkon belongs to the same genus as the orange and lemon. It is a na- 
tive of India, btit is cultivated in all orange-growing countries. It is aciduous, an- 
tiseptic, and antiscorbutic and has been recommended for chronic rheumatism, 
gout and scurvy. It is not unsuited for eating in its natural state, and the juice 
mixed with water and sweetened forms an excellent drink. The prepared rind or 
peel is much used for cooking and confectionery. 

DRIED CURRANTS. — Put alternate layei'S of currants and sugar 
in a jar, using 1 cup of sugar to each pound of currants; let stand 
until the next day and bring them to a boil, and boil ^ hour; skim 
them, and then dry in a slow oven or the sun, spreading them out 
on plates. They serve well in pudding or pies instead of raisins. 
Keep them in paper bags, or in stone crocks well covered, or pack 
them in sugar in glass jars. 

DRIED GOOSEBERRIES.— (1) To 7 lbs. of red gooseberries, 
add 1| lbs. powdered sugar, which must be strewed over them in the 
preserving pan; let them remain at a good heat over a slow fire until 
they begin to break; then remove them; repeat this process for 2 or 3 
days; then take the gooseberries from the syrup, and spread them on 
sieves to dry. The syrup may be used for other purposes. When 
the gooseberries are quite dry, store them in tin boxes on layers of 
paper. (2) They are sometimes dried in a moderate oven or the 
sun, without the sugar, as directed for cherries. Select firm, ripe 
fruit. 



476 . DRIED FRUITS 

DRIED PEACHES. — (1) Take free=stone peaches, cut in halves 
and i^lace them on plates, hollow side up; fill the hollows with gran- 
ulated sugar, and place in a slow oven, or in the sun, if the weather 
is fine, until they are half dry; then pack them in glass jars, hollow 
side down; first a layer of dry sugar, then a layer of peaches mashed 
flat with the small end of a potato masher, then layers of sugar and 
fruit until the jar is full, having a layer of sugar on top. Screw on 
the covers, and keep in a cool, dry closet. (2) Another way is to 
put well ripened peaches in boiling water for 1 or 2 minutes, — a 
whole bushel can be put in the boiler at once; then turn off the wa- 
ter and the skins can be more easily and quickly removed, they can 
be stoned easier, they will dry quicker, and are better when dried. 
Dry them, sprinkled with sugar, in a moderate oven or in the sun. 
(3) They can also be dried without removing the skins, but the fur 
should be well rubbed with a piece of flannel; then dry like apples. 

PEACH CHIPS. — Use 1 cup of sugar to each lb. of fruit; boil 
the sugar in water enough to dissolve it, until it becomes very thick; 
then put in the peaches, which should be peeled and sliced, and scald 
them well; then take them out with the skimmer and dry in the sun. 
When dry, pack closely in jars in layers, with powdered sugar be- 
tween each layer. The syrup left can be bottled, and used in pud- 
ding sauces, blanc manges, etc. The chips can be used in puddings 
instead of raisins. 

DRIED PINEAPPLE — Pare and slice the fruit thinly, put it on 
dishes, and strew on it a plenty of powdered sugar; keep it in a very 
slow oven 8 or 10 days, and turn the fruit every day until* dry ; then 
put the pieces of pineai)ple on tins and place them in a quick oven 
for 10 minutes. Let them cool, and store them away in dry boxes, 
with paper between each layer. 

DRIED PLUMS.— These need not be pared; rub the skin thor- 
oughly with a piece of flannel, and dry in the sun or an oven, like 
apples. 

DRIED WATERMELON RINDS.— These can be dried in the sun 

after being preserved, and they can be used instead of the imported 

citron for cakes and puddings, answering very well. 

The melon belongs to the gourd tribe. It has never been found in a wild 
state, but is supposed to be a native of the sub-tropical parts of Asia; it is properly 
the fruit of a hot climate. It was originally named the niusk=melon. The water- 
melon although less sweet than the muskmelon is more juicy. There are many var- 
ieties, but all are wholesome. In their season melons are beneficial because of their 
action on the kidneys, but tliey sliould not be eaten unless of good quality and fully 
ripe. The composition of watermelon is d2% water; 6% carbohydrates; 1% albumen- 
olds; 0.7$^ fat, and 0.3^ mineral matters. 



COOKED FKUITS 477 

COOKED FRUITS. 

Baking, stewing and frying are the simplest and easiest ways of 
cooking fruit. Do not pare the fruit long before cooking it, or it will 
discolor by ex^Dosure to the air, and its delicate flavor will be im- 
paired. Cook it in aluminum, earthen or porcelain kettles, and use 
earthen dishes, silver or aluminum knives and wooden spoons, as iron 
or pewter spoons may cause discoloration. It is better not to prepare 
a great deal of stewed fruit at once, as it does not keep long. Only a 
little sugar is needed. 

Using Sugar. — Many cooks do not understand the use of sugar in 
cooKing fruit. The sugar in ordinary use is cane sugar, and is 2| 
times as sweet as grape sugar, but is closely allied to it, as we have 
explained elsewhere. Cane sugar can be changed to grape sugar by 
cooking it with acids and thus its sweetening power will be reduced 
to that of grape sugar Some cooks put their sugar in with a mass of 
acid fruit to be cooked, and keep cooking and adding sugar as the 
mass gets sweeter until at last they use 2| times as much sugar as they 
need to do, because the cane sugar becomes changed to gra^^e sugar. If 
the sugar had been added after the fruit was cooked, much less would 
have been required, and the result would have been far more satisfac- 
tory. By bearing this in mind a large saving can be made in the use 
of sugar. Many people misapprehend the efPect of sugar on the acids 
of fruits. Enough sugar can be added to disguise the taste of the 
acid, but it does not neutralize it as an alkali would do, nor does it 
efPect any chemical change in the acid whatever. 

APPLE BUTTER — Boil new cider down |; then add an equal 
quantity of apples which have been pared, quartered and cored; 
boil until the apples are tender, and then sweeten with light brown 
sugar, and boil, with constant stirring, until it is reduced to a 
smooth buttery mass; spice to taste and put away in stone jars. If 
cooked properly, the spices can be omitted if desired, as the true 
apple flavor is preserved better without them. It is better if left 
slightly tart. 

FRIED APPLES. — Cut sour apples from the cores in small 
chunks — do not peel them — and j)ut them in a frying-pan with the 
fat fried from 2 or 3 slices of salt pork; sjDrinkle a little salt over 
them, cover tightly with a plate and place on the stove where they 
will cook slowly ^ hour. Serve as a sauce for meat at dinner. They 
are also good cold with bread and butter. 



478 



COOKED FRUITS 



BAKED APPLES. — Wash sour ai^ples, wipe them dry, and re- 
move the cores; fill the holes with svigar, and add a little spice and a 
piece of butter on each apple; put -^ cuj) of hot water in the x:)an and 
bake the apples until tender. Serve with sponge cake. If jDreferred, 
a little grated lemon peel can be mixed with the sugar instead of the 
spice and butter; baste often with the syrup as they bake. Baked 
ajaples served with or without flavored milk, are delicious. 

BAKED APPLES, No. 2. Take tart 
apples, pare, quarter, and place them in a 
long, shallow pan, sprinkle with sugar, 
cinnamon and flour, dot with small pieces 
of butter, pour in a little water, and bake. 
Serve warm. 

Baked Apples and Oranges. — Take 6 good 
sweet aj)ples; remove the blossom end, 
pare, and put in a baking pan; sprinkle on 
1 small cup sugar. Invert a pan over 
them, and bake until tender; let them 
cool in their own juice, then pile high 
in a glass fruit dish; jDour the sweetened 
juice and puli? of 3 oranges over them, and 
si^rinkle on the grated yellow rind. 

APPLE. 

BOILED APPLES.— Take 12 good 
whole apples; put them in a stew=^pan and pour on 2 cups boiling 
water; boil until soft, and sweeten on taking them from the stove. 
Serve hot or cold — best cold. 

QLACED APPLES. — Partially stew large whole apples; take 
them out and bake them. Take the water in which they stewed 
add white sugar, and boil until it will form a soft candy when 
cool (about the "crack" degree). Arrange the baked apples on 
the dish in which they will l)e served, and pour the syrup over them 
hot. When cold, an amber coating of soft candy will have formed 
about each apple, which will add to its appearance and taste. 

APPLE MERINGUES.— Take 6 apples, peel, quarter and core 
them; set them over the fire in a sauce pan, with 2 tablespoons of 
water, stirring occasionally until done; then mix 2 or 3 tablespoons 
of sugar with them, and arrange them into a mound in a silver or 
tin dish. Take the welhbeaten whites of 3 eggs, and add 3 oz. pul- 
verized sugar; spread | of this over and around the apples, smooth- 
ing it with a knife dipped in cold water; put the remainder in a pip- 




COOKED FRUITS 479 

ing bag (see "Piping" in our article on "Frosting and Icing" in 
the chapter on " Cake") and decorate the dish according to taste, or 
put small knots here and there, over and around the dish. Dust with 
sugar, and put into a hot oven 20 or 25 minutes. Serve in the same 
dish. 

APPLE SAUCE. — Select 12 sour apples, pare, core, and fill 
the holes with sugar; when cooked very soft, mash through a sieve 
into a small pudding dish, and add the grated rind of 1 lemon; 
beat the whites of 2 eggs and 4 tablespoons of white sugar; add it, 
and brown slightly. Eat cold 

Improved Apple Sauce. — Pare and core 10 tart apples and stew 
with as little water as possible; then add 1 cup powdered sugar; 
whip the whites of 4 eggs to a stiff froth, add to the apples, and stir 
rapidly for a few minutes. Set aside to cool, and serve with sweet- 
ened cream flavored with lemon. It .somewhat resembles ice cream, 
and makes a delicious dessert served with nice cake. 

Improved Apple Sauce No. 2. — Too sweet apples do not cook well. 
Cook the sliced apples, in barely water enough to cover them, until 
tender enongh to mash easily through a colander; sweeten while 
warm, and season with rose=water, lemon juice and nutmeg. Lemon 
peel stewed with them adds a delicate flavor. 

CIDER APPLE SAUCE. — Take 4 quarts of sweet apples, pared, 
quartered and cored; add 2 quarts of cider either sweet or boiled; 
cover with a plate, and boil slowly but steadily until the apples are 
cooked. 

DRIED APPLE SAUCE. — Look over and wash the aj)ples, and 
let them soak over night in soft water; cook them next morning, 
slowly and without stirring, until they are tender; about 5 minutes 
before taking from the stove add sugar to sweeten; mash through a 
sieve, and flavor with cinnamon. 

Dried Peach Sauce can be made the same way, but do not mash it, 
and season it less. 

^ 

CRANBERRY SAUCE.— Pick over the berries, wash and scald 
them, and put on to stew over a moderate fire, adding 1 cup water for 
ench pound of cranberries; cover, and stew slowly, stirring as little as 
possible. If boiled hard, especially when first put on^the stove, it is 
apt to separate the skin from the berry. Sweeten them to taste on 
taking them from the stove. Part of the acid can be extracted from 
the cranberries, so that less sugar will be needed to sweeten them, if 
they are allowed to stand first, for about 5 minutes, in boiling water; 



480 



COOKED FEUITS 




CBANBEBBIES. 



then drain tliem out, and set them on to stew with fresh water. A 
few raisins added to cranberries make a pleasant combination. 

Cranberry Sauce No. 2. — Take 3 
cups water, 1 lb. of raisins, and 2 .,*'r"'^-<^ 

quarts of cranberries; boil until 
soft enough to sift easily; pass it 
through a sieve, add 2 cups sugar, 
and boil 10 minutes. If some of 
it is desired for immediate use 
pour it into a mold; can the re- 
mainder for future use. Or they 

can be cooked together, sweetened, and set aside to cool without be- 
ing put through the sieve. 

BANANAS, BAKED — Peel the bananas, cut them in halves, 
and ijvit them in a shallow pan; for each banana allow 1 tablespoon 
of sugar and 1 teaspoon of hot water; melt a little butter in the hot 
water and pour it over the bananas; with the 
sugar mix a little salt and spice or lemon juice, 
sprinkle it on top, and bake in a quick oven till 
brown — about 20 minutes. 




BANANA TKEE. 



FRIED BANANAS. -(1) Choose bananas 
which are not quite ripe (the "Plantain" being 
best); peel, slice, and droj) them into a frying=pan 
containing smoking hot fat, about ^ inch deep; 
they will soon broMui; then take them out and 
serve hot, sprinkled with pepper and salt, or, if for 
dessert, sprinkle with sugar instead. (2) Or peel, slice, egg and 
bread-crumb them, and fry to a delicate brown in a kettle of smoking 
hot fat; drain on a sieve or blotting paper and serve. 

The Banana grows almost everywhere in the tropics. It is really a variety of 
the plantain, and is very much. like it. It is a nutritious food, and contains less 
water and more nitrogenous matter then most fresh fruits. It is always eaten ripe, 
and then contains much sugar, but little starch. A pound of bananas contains as 
much nutriment as 8 lbs. of potatoes, and there is every reason to encourage their 
more extensive use. 

DATE SAUCE — Prepare dates for cooking as directed under 
"Cake." (1) Pare, core and quarter apples, and stew until nearly 
done; then add an equal quantity of dates and stew until tender, but 
no longer; sweeten to taste. (2) Another way is to pare and core 
apples, without quartering them, fill the' center of each apple with 
dates, pour on a little hot water, sprinkle with sugar, and bake in the 
dish in which they are to be served; then cover with a meringue and 
bro .vn slightly in the oven. 



COOKED FKUITS 481 

DRIED BERRIES, STEWED.— To stew dried berries take 
about 1 quart of water to 1 pint of berries, and boil slowly and 
steadily -| hour. Sweeten to taste. The various dried berries are 
cooked alike. Raspberries and blackberries mixed are nice, using 
the same amount of each. 

FIG SAUCE. — Scald and wash ^ lb. of nice figs; take every seed 
from ^ lb, of raisins, tearing them in two pieces as you seed them; 
cut the figs in very small jjieces and mix with the raisins; add water 
enough to cover them, and steam 1 hour in a i^udding dish. It 
makes a delicious sauce for tea, or dessert for dinner. 

GOOSEBERRY FOOL.— Take ofp the tops and stalks from 1 lb. 
of gooseberries and stew them with ^ cup sugar in ^ cup water; then 
pulp through a sieve. Whip 2 cups cream and 
beat into the j)ulp. 

GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE.-Put 1 quart of 
gooseberries with 1 lb. of sugar in a kettle and 
boil until reduced to a pulp. When cold, j)lace 
in a dish, pour over it 1 quart boiled custard, and 
cover with whipped cream. 

The GoosfiBEKKY belongs to the same order of plants 
as the red and black currants. It does not appear to have 
been known to tho ancients. The name is by some thought 
to be a corruption of the Saxou gorst (gorse=berry, mean- goosebekky. 

ing roughiberry). The skin is very indigestible. The acid 
is principally citric and malic. Red gooseberries contain 

more acid than the wliite, but when that is masked with sugar they are most 
wholesome. The red variety makes an excellent jelly which is light and refresh- 
ing, and is good for bilious and plethoric persons, and invalids generally who need 
light and digestible food, but it is not very nourishing. 

LEMON BUTTER — Take the juice of 2 lemons and the grated 
rind of 1, 2 cups sugar, 1 tablespoon of butter and 4 eggs; beat all 
well together, place over the fire, and stir until the consistency of 
honey. 

LEMON JELLY. — Mix 1 cup sugar, 2 eggs, and 1 grated lemon; 
boil until thick. 

PEACHES, TO SKIN — If peaches are dipped in boiling hot 
water for an instant the skins will readily slip otf , saving labor in 
paring them. 

BAKED PEACHES. — Choose those which are ripe, or nearly so, 
put them in a deep earthen dish, sprinkle on sugar, and bake until 
done, keeping them covered. 

PEACH BUTTER.— (1) Take 1 gallon of sweet cider and boil 

31 




482 



COOKED FRUITS 



it down one half; into this put soft peaches, pared and cut into 
pieces, and boil, with frequent stirring, until they are reduced to a 
pulp; just before taking from the fire add sugar, if it is not sweet 
enough, and cloves and cinnamon to taste. Keep in tightly covered 
jars. (2) Take ripe peaches, pare and stone them, and put in a 
kettle; add a little water and boil them soft, and then pass through 
a colander. Then add 1| cups of sugar to each pint of peaches, and 
boil slowly 1 hour, stirring often; do not let them burn. Keep in a 
cool place in stone or glass jars. 

FRIED PEACHES. — Take ripe, freestone peaches, cut them in 
two, remove the stones, and at once drop each half, the cut side 
down, into a frying-pan containing about | inch of smoking hot fat; 
as soon as they are a light brown, turn them over and fry the other 
side; as soon as heated through, transfer them to a hot platter. 
Serve them hot, the hollow side up, sprinkling on a little pulverized 
sugar. 

STEWED PEARS. — Cover medium sized pears with water, 
adding 4 to 6 ounces of sugar for each pint of water; cook in a slow 
oven until done — 1 or 2 hours or more according to ripeness. Take 
out, and when cold remove the cores, using a long cutter; reduce the 
syrup well; fill the interior of the pears with whipped cream flavored 
with vanilla and pour the syrup around them. Serve more whipped 
cream with them. For a change gelatine may be added to set the 
syrup; when cold, chop it, and j)ile around or over the fruit. 

Apples are also nice thus treated. 

BAKED PEARS.— Pare and core the 
pears without dividing; place them in a pan 
and fill the hole in each pear with brown 
sugar; add a little water and bake until per- 
fectly tender. Serve cold with cream or 
boiled custard. (2) Hard pears or "wind- 
falls " can be pared, quartered and cored, and 
put into a deep pudding dish; add 1 cup 
water and 1 cup sugar for each 2 quarts of 
j)ears; cover closely, and bake in a moderate 
oven — it will take several hours. They will peak. 

keep then indefinitely, if sealed in Mason 

jars as soon as they are done, and while still hot. Fruit that is often 
left on the ground to waste, may be saved thus and made useful. 

CHIPPED PEARS. — Take pears not quite ripe; pare and core 
them, and cut into long, thin strips; to 8 lbs. of the fruit add 6 lbs. 




COOKED FRUITS 488 

of sugar, the juice of 3 lemons and the rind cut into strips, 2 cups of 
water and 2 tablespoons of ginger; boil the whole until the fruit is 
transparent, and then bottle. 

The Peab belongs to the same order as the quince and the apple, and is one 
of the most valuable fruit trees of temperate climates; there are about 150 varie- 
ties, but none of them keep as well as apples. They are perfectly wholesome when 
ripe, but not when green, although they may then be stewed. A fermented liquor 
called perry is made from the pear. Its acid is tartaric principally. 

PLUM CHARLOTTE.— Take 1 quart of ripe plums, stone, stew, 
and then sweeten them; place slices of bread and butter in the bot- 
tom and around the sides of a large bowl or deep dish, and pour in 
the plums, boiling hot; cover the bowl and set it away to cool gradu 
ally. Send it to the table cold, and eat with cream. 

DAMSON SAUCE. — Take 6 lbs. ripe damsons, 1 quart cider vin- 
egar, 1^ lbs. sugar; boil until the damsons are soft, then take, them 
out, mash them, put back into the syruj) and boil from -| to | hour, 
stirring them and watching that they do not stick to the kettle or 
burn. 

PRUNE SAUCE. — (1) Soak the prunes over night; in the morn- 
ing boil until they M'ill slii) from the stones easily; when used, slip 
them from the stones and serve with thick cream. (2) To 1 lb. 
l^runes when jDut on to stew, add the juice and thin yellow rind of an 
orange; when done (when the stones are loose) sweeten with plenty 
of sugar. This sauce is excellent with rabbit, roast pig, kid, venison 
or fawn. 

STEWED PRUNES. — Select good prunes, wash them, and let 
soak 1 or 2 hours if dry and hard; then cover them with boiling 
water, cover closely, and boil until tender and swollen; then for each 
quart of prunes add 2 tablespoons of sugar, and boil a little more, 
but not long enough to break the skins. A little lemon juice may be 
added if they are deficient in flavor. 

Peunes are simply dried plums. They are often used for their laxative effect 
by persons subject to habitual constipation. 

BAKED QUINCES. — Choose ripe quinces, wash and core them, 
fill the cavities with sugar, put in a baking pan with a little water 
and bake until soft. They are very fine if eaten with sugar and but- 
ter when hot. 

STEWED QUINCES — Choose good quinces, and pare, quarter 
and core them; add sufficient water to -| cover them, cover closely, 
and stew until tender; for each lb. of quinces add 1 cup of sugar, 
cover closely, and cook until a thick syrup. If -| as many apples as 
quinces are used it makes a nice dish. 



484 



COOKED FRUITS 



RAISINE. — Take very ripe but quite sound grapes, squeeze the 
juice from them and boil until it is reduced a half. Peel and core 
some pears, quarter them, put them in this grape syrup, and boil till 
it is reduced a third. It may be made with unripe grapes, but then 
sugar must be added, allowing ^ lb. to each pint of grape juice. 

STEWED RHUBARB.— Peel it, cut into inch pieces, stew it un- 
til soft, and sweeten to taste. If very sour, it can be allowed to first 
stand 5 minutes in boiling water, then drain it out -and put it in 
fresh water to stew. This extracts part of its acid, and less sugar is 
then needed to sweeten it. Rhubarb and green currants mixed to- 
gether, stewed, and sweetened to taste, make a pleasant sauce. 

RHUBARB BUTTER.— To each pound of 
rhubarb, which is peeled and chopped, allow 2 
cups sugar; let them simmer together until it is 
done. 

A Hint. — If equal quantities of rhubarb and 
any other kind of fruit are mixed together the 
rhubarb will soon taste exactly like the other fruit. 

Rhubabb is a native of Asia, and its introduction into 
Europe is of quite recent date. It belongs to tlie buck- 
wheat order. Although it cannot be eaten raw, when cooked 
it is lauch used. All kinds are best for culinary purposes khubakb. 

when blanched. The stalks are sometimes partly blanched 

by putting a headless barrel over them and allowing them to grow up through it. 
Its food value is small, not 3^^ of its solid matter being nutritive. It contains 
about 2^ of sugar, which is its chief nutritive element. Its sour taste is due to the 
presence of oxalic acid, of which it contains 0.3?,?. In some conditions of the body, 
rhubarb, sorrel, and otlier plants containing oxalic compounds, are best avoided. 
Oxalic acid is always and everywhere an irritant poison, but the amount in rhubarb 
is small. 

TAMARIND SAUCE — Fill a stone jar with thoroughly ripe 
tamarinds, and put into a cool oven until 
quite tender, adding during the stewing 
enough sugar, but not more than enough, ^. ' ^^^ 

to take away the extreme acidity of the 
fruit; then rub through a sieve. 

The tamarind sold in the markets is often adulter- 
ated with copper. Its presence may be detected by 
putting in a piece of polished iron or steel and leav- 
ing it for a while; if copper is present the metal will 
be coated red with it. 

TAMARIND TKEE. 

TOMATO BUTTER — Scald the tomatoes, remove the skins, and 
add ^ as much pared, cored and quartered apples as there are toma- 
toes; cook slowly, stirring often, till reduced to the consistency of 





COMPOTES 485 

marmalade; when the apples begin to break, sweeten to taste with 
light brown sugar, and add the juice of 1 lemon and 1 teaspoon gin- 
ger, if desired, for each 6 lbs. of the fruit. 



COMPOTES. 

These are the French method of preparing the English stewed 
fruit. Compotes consist of any kind of fresh fruit, partly cooked in 
a syrup less strong than that used for preserves or jam, and are used 
the same day they are made. If enough sugar is allowed they will 
keep good for 2 or 3 days, in a cool place. If there is any sign of 
mold or fermentation, it may be checked on its first appearance by 
boiling the preparation a second time for 1 or 2 minutes. They are 
more economical and wholesome than pastry, and superior compotes 
can be served for dessert. They are much relished by persons who 
cannot eat raw fruit. They should be served in a glass dish with 
cake. 

The essential thing to remember in making compotes is that 
the fruit should not be cooked as thoroughly as when it is to be 
served as stewed fruit; it must not cook enough to lose either its 
form or color. After the fruit has simmered in the syrup, lift it out 
with a skinnner, arrange it in a glass dish (called a Com poiier) boil 
the syrup a little, let it cool, and pour it over, straining it if it needs 
it. If an insufficient amount of sugar is used the syrup will not be 
clear and bright. 

Syrup for Compotes. — A good rule is to allow 3 cups of water for 
each lb. of sugar; boil it 15 minutes, removing the scum carefully as 
it rises; the syrup is then ready for use. Articles boiled in this will 
not keep long, it being suited only for dishes intended to be eaten 
immediately; more sugar must be added for syrup intended to keep. 
Also the kind of fruit and its ripeness will affect the amount of sugar 
needed. 

COMPOTE OF APPLES— Select moderate sized apples; either 
pare, halve, and core them, or cook them whole if preferred; then 
add xjrepared syrup and let them simmer until tender, adding a little 
lemon juice; lift out the apples and boil the syrup a little to thicken 
it; cool it and pour it over the apples. Garnisli it with strips of 
green angelica, candied citron, or a border of rice jelly or plain 
boiled rice, or put a slice of lemon on each apple. 

Pears, Peaches, Apricots, Bananas and other fruit may be prepared 
the same way, but it is best to stone peaches or apricots. 



486 COMPOTES 

Oranges should be peeled and divided into sections without 
breaking the thin skin; then treat them as directed for apples. 

BANANA COMPOTE. — Peel and slice the bananas and jDlace 
them in a dish (alternate layers of red and white bananas look nice), 
XJour over them the hot syruj) for compotes, let stand till cold, and 
serve with whijiped cream. 

COMPOTE OF FIGS — Dissolve J lb. of loaf sugar in 2 cups of 
water; add 1 lb. of dried figs, a little grated lemon rind, and stew all 
very gently for 2 hours. Have some sponge cake ready, cut into 
squares; lay a stewed fig on each square, add a little lemon juice to 
the syrup, which should be pretty thick, and pour it over the figs. 
Serve when cold with thick cream or wipped cream. It makes a 
dainty, cheap and wholesome dessert. 

A Compote of Green Figs can be made with 1| 
pints of green figs and 1 pint of the pre^jared 
syruj), and x^roceed as directed for a compote of 
apples. 




The Fig is a native of Persia, Asia Minor, etc. The 
common fig in its native land bears 2 crops a year. Tlie 
figs of commerce come mainly from Turkey and the coun- 
tries bordering on the Mediterranean. The fruit contains 
about 57 per cent, of sugar, and is wholesome and nutritious, 
but the seeds are indigestible, and sometimes have an irri- j-jq tkee and 

tant action on the bowels. fruit. 

GOOSEBERRY COMPOTE.— Gooseberries for 
comjDote should not be very ripe; tojD and tail them, pour on some 
boiling water, then take them out and plunge them into cold water 
containing a little vinegar, which will assist in keeping the color 
good; then drain them, jDut them into the syrup, and jjroceed as 
directed for apples, being careful not to break their skins. 

RASPBERRY COMPOTE — Use ripe fruit and allow just enough 
red currant juice to cover, or a little water may be mixed with it. 
Use a shallow dish, add a little granulated sugar to the currant juice 
and as soon as it boils put in the raspberries and cover; then remove 
from the fire, and when cold pour into a dish. 

This is delicious with puddings hot or cold, or with plain or 
frozen cream, and is also excellent iced. 

RHUBARB COMPOTE.— Cut the rhubarb into inch lengths, 
and boil it fast in plenty of water until soft; at once drain it from 
the water, j)ut it in a dish and sprinkle on sugar (-| lb. or so for each 
lb. of fruit); leave until cold, and there will be plenty of syrup. 



COMPOTES 487 

STRAWBERRY COMPOTE— Put alternate layers of strawber- 
ries and sugar in a stew=pan, add a gill of currant syrup for each lb. 
of fruit, shake it over the fire for a minute or two and then turn it 
out to cool. Flavor it if liked. 



JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, 
AND PRESERVES. 

Vt-/ HESE include all those preparations of fresh fruit made with 
W I a sufficient quantity of sugar to prevent fermentation, with- 
^^^ out the process of sealing them in cans or bottles while hot. 
They have been used from time immemorial under the 
name of sweetmeats or preserves. A goodly array of preserves and 
jellies in her store-closet will fill the heart of the thorough houses 
wife with great satisfaction, and although it is some work to make 
them she will know that they are pure and healthful, while often 
there is much uncertainty about those bought at the stores. 

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. 

The Fruit. — Fruit intended for preservation should be gathered in 
dry weather, and, if i^ossible, while the morning sun is on it; it will 
then have its finest flavor, and will keep better than when gathered 
at any other time. It should be used as soon as possible after it is 
gathered; if kept a short time, put it in a refrigerator or icediouse — 
in the latter it will keep fresh and plump for several days. Fruit 
that is dusty is not injured by being rinsed quickly in and out of 
cold water, but if gathered during or immediately after a rain the 
juice will be less rich and less full of flavor; if gathered in damp or 
foggy weather it will soon mildew, and so will })e worthless unless 
used immediately, and boiled very thoroughly, when it can be made 
into jams or preserves that will keei3, but they will be of inferior 
quality and doubtful wholesomeness. There is no greater mistake 
than to imagine that half=ripe or over=ripe fruit is good enough for 
preserves. The fruit should be free from dust, and any which is un- 
sound should be cast aside. Whatever fruit has been boiled should 
be finished up the same day, and never any kept over night. 
Quinces, pears, apples, etc., can be kept from turning dark by put- 
ting them in cold water as soon as pared, but it is better to cook 
them as soon as possible. 

The Sugar. — The best quality of sugar either white or brown will 
be found the cheapest in the end. For the more delicate kinds of 
preserves only the best sugar should be used. Jelly made from a 
bluish white sugar will not harden well. An inferior quality of 

488 



JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 489 

sugar is sometimes used for preserves or canned fruit, but when that 
is used they will spoil more easily, and will not look as well. If too 
little sugar is used the mixture will not keep, and it is false economy 
to try it. If too much sugar is used, on the other hand, the flavor of 
the fruit will be lost. Coarse brown sugar conceals the flavor of the 
fruit, and moist sugar lacks sweetening power. 

The water used for melting sugar should be jjure, clear and entire- 
ly free from sediment, as any cloudiness will imj^air the clearness 
of the product, and in clear jellies this is objectionable. 

The Utensils Used. — The best vessels to use in cooking fruits for 
preserves or canning are aluminum, porcelain lined kettles or yellow 
ware dishes. Never use tin vessels, as the acid of the fruit acts on 
the tin and the poisonous acetate of lead is formed. To cook the 
fruit equally throughout, the vessel sh /.Jd be rather large in 
diameter and not too deep; if too much heaped the fruit will not 
cook evenly. Close fitting covers should be provided, and put on 
after the scum has done rising, so as to retain the flavor of the fruit 
with the steam. Wire sieves and iron pots destroy the flavor and 
should not be used. Copper or brass kettles should be scoured very 
bright with salt and vinegar before being used, and the fruit removed 
(d once on taking it from the fire, but even then some of the poison- 
ous verdigris will be formed by the action of the acids on the metal. 
Porcelaindined vessels are much better. Aluminum vessels are 
excellent to use, because the citric, malic and other acids found in 
fruits do not affect that metal. 

Fruit should be stirred with either an aluminum, silver or wood- 
en spoon — the latter is best. Iron, tin or pewter ones will spoil the 
color. 

The Principles Involved. — Although the sugar passes easily into the state of 
fermentation, and is in fact the only substance capable of undergoing the vinous 
stage of that process, it will not ferment at all if the quantity be sutScieut to con- 
stitute a very strong syrup; hence syrups are used to preserve fruits and other 
vegetable substances from the changes they would undergo if left to themselves. 
Before sugar was in use honey was employed in preserving, but it is now replaced 
by sugar. In putting up juice or fruit, the object is to boil it with sugar to such a 
consistency that it will neither ferment nor mildew. 

In boiling most fruits, it is best to boil them in water first, and add the sugar 
when the fruit has become soft and the juice is drawn out. The first object in 
preserving fruit is to soften it by boiling in water, so that the sugar by which it is 
preserved may penetrate all. through if, and so preserve it well. The more thor- 
oughly the skimming is done the clearer the preserves will be. 

Fruit jellies owe their jellylike consistency to the presence of a sort of gum= 
like substance which they contain called pectose, or pecfic acid. This substance, 
although soluble in fruit juice, when mixed with sugar, exposed to heat, and 
cooled, will coagulate. Although in appearance so much resembling gelatine, from 
a chemical standpoint it is entirely different, being nearly allied to f/i(Hi, but it has 
about the same food value as the sugar with which it is mixed. The pectose does 
not develop in fruit until it begins to ripen, but as soon as the fruit is overripe it 



490 JAMS, JELLIES, PRESERVES, ETC. 

loses its gelatinizing property. For jellies, therefore, fruit should be gathered as 
soo)i as fully ripe, or just a little before. Over=cooking jelly also destroys the gel- 
atinizing properties of the pectose. 

Tlip chettiical composition of the various preserves is simply the composition of 
the fruit juice and fruit itself, with the loss of a few volatile constituents, and 
the addition of cane sugar. 

Home'ninde preserves, jams, etc., when properly prepared and well made, are 
much superior to those which are sold in the market. Professor Sharpless says 
that " apple sauce is frequently pumpkin boiled with cider; that rasplierry jam 
offered for sale is often sour, and that strawberry jam is frequently made from the 
refuse strawberries of the market." 

Putting in Jars and Keeping. Pnl jellies, jams, and marmalades in 
small glasses, wliich will prevent the frequent opening necessary 
with large ones. The usual method has been to lay on top a piece of 
paper dipped in brandy or alcohol and cut to fit nicely, and then 
paint a larger piece with white of egg and tie it on over the other — 
some people tie on parchment. A much simpler and easier method 
for jellies is when they get cold to pour on melted parafine. It 
hardens almost immediately, and then a piece of brown paper can be 
tied on to keep out the dust. The parafine will lift off easily, and it 
can be washed, kept, and used again by remelting. 

If any of the preparations become candied, set the glasses in 
water and let it boil around them, which will remedy it. If jellies 
are put in wine bottles for exportation, put 1 tablespoon of alcohol in 
each bottle before sealing. Look over jellies the last of the summer, 
and reboil them if there are any indications of fermentation. 

The glasses or jars into which jams, preserves, etc., are put, 
should be perfectly dry, and the closet in which they are stored 
should be neither so warm that they ferment, nor so damp that they 
become moldy. 

Preventing Mold; — Jellies can be kept from molding by covering 
the top, when cool, with pulverized sugar, melted parafine, or oil, like 
salad or cotton seed. 

Mold. — Remember that mold is a low form of life (it is a plant) and a certain 
amount of moisture is necessary to its growth. Its seeds are so small that they 
penetrate the tiniest crack, and the mold spreads readily from one thing to anoth- 
er. If specks of mold appear, the plant can be killed by putting the jars in a 
well=heated oven, or by putting them in a pan of water and letting it boil around 
them. Its presence is always an injury, detracting from both the wholesomeness 
and flavor of the article it attacks. 

Keep jellies, jams, etc., in a dark, cool, dry closet. Paste on the 
side of each glass a little strip of paper bearing the name of its con- 
tents. If glass jars are used for preserves, wrap 2 or 3 thicknesses of 
paper around each one, which will exclude the light and keep them 
from bleaching. 

Coloring. — The only coloring suitable for any fruit preparation is 



• JELLIES 491 

some vegetable color, like those we give for " Frostings " in our 
chapter on " Cakes," but they should be used sparingly. 



JELLIES. 

These are made with clear fruit juice and sugar, the usual rule 
being to mix them in equal proijortions. As, owing to the change in 
its pectose, fruit will not make jelly when it is over=ripe, it should be 
gathered for this purpose just as it turns ripe. If you wish clear, 
firm jelly, do not make it in damp or rainy weather. 

When a sweet fruit, like the pear, etc., is used in making jelly, 
add some very sour apple juice — say about half; or for strawberries 
use red currant juice. Alone, the sweet fruits do not make good jel- 
ly because they lack pectose — the substance which causes fruit juice 
to jelly. Gelatine is sometimes added with cherries and some other 
fruits; allow a package to each | gallon of juice when it is used. 
Grapes are unreliable. Crab apples jelly readily. Combining 2 
fruits, like | currants to ^j raspberries, improves the flavor of jams 
and jellies. Another excellent combination for jelly is ^ apple juice 
to I peach juice. A delightful jelly is made from swamp huckleber- 
ies or low blackberries. Barberries, currants, apples, grapes and 
c^uinces all jelly well. Damsons make an excellent jelly. 

To Make Jelly. — In making jellies cut large fruit into small j)ieces; 
add water enough to prevent the fruit from burning — apples and 
quinces need just enough water to cover them, and currants less; 
cover the kettle and boil slowly until -the fruit is soft. Then put 
both fruit and juice into the jelly bag. and allow it to drip, setting it 
in a warm place. Toward the last, squeeze the bag gently with the 
hand, or use 2 spoons, but do not be too anxious to squeeze out all 
tlie juice, as the more you squeeze it the cloudier you will make the 
jelly,* Measure the -juice, and the general rule is to allow 1 lb. 
sugar to each pint of juice, but quinces need only | lb. sugar to each 
lb. of juice. Now put the juice on the stove, bring it to a' boil, and 
continue to boil without being covered, until done — 20 minutes being 
the rule for most fruits; skim frequently, as the more perfect the 
skimming the clearer the jelly will be; do not boil it too hard. Have 



*Note. — Squeezing all the juice out of the bag makes the jelly cloudy; if it is 
not squeezed, much of the contents of the bag is often wasted. To prevent the 
waste some housewives use the juice which will drip through without squeezing, 
and make a clear jelly for table use. The balance they squeeze out, and with it 
they make a second quality of jelly to use for cake, puddings, sauces, etc. It is 
good, but not so clear. 



492 JELLIES 

the sugar ready heated (heat it in the oven wnile the juice is boiling, 
stirring it frequently from the bottom), and now drop it into the 
boiling juice, stirring constantly. Let it just come to a boil, and put 
at once into the jelly glasses; or another jDlan is to have a heated 
pitcher ready, with a piece of cheese cloth wet in hot water spread 
over the top. Pour the jelly, a dipperful at a time, through the strainer 
into the pitcher, and then turn it from the pitcher into the glasses, 
and set away to cool. The jelly glasses can be standing ready in a pan 
of hot water; take them out, drain, and turn in the jelly. 

In making jelly it should boil neither too long nor too short a 
time; if it boils too long a time it will be discolored and its flavor in- 
jured; if insufficiently boiled it will not keep well. The longer it 
boils the darker it becomes. If the juice is very watery, and the 
effort is made to evajDorate the water by long boiling, the gelatiniz- 
ing property is destroyed, and it becomes gummy and will not jelly. 

To Test Jelly. — There are various ways: (1) Drop a little into cold 
water or on a cold plate, stirring it for a few seconds, and if it coagu- 
lates it is done; or (2) let 1 or 2 drops fall from the skimmer into a 
glass of cold water; if it reaches the bottom a solid drop of jelly, with- 
out dissolving in the water, it is done; or (3) dip the skimmer in and 
out, holding it sideways over the jelly; if it runs off in only one place 
it is not cooked enough; if it runs around the skimmer and drips ofp 
in 2 or 3 places in wide thick drops, it is done. 

Hardening Jelly. — Jelly which is not quite as firm as desired can be 
shrunk by setting the glasses in the sun. 

To prevent breaking the glasses when pouring in the hot jelly, sev- 
eral plans are in use. One plan is to rub the glass over on the out- 
side with lard or butter, and then pour in the first 1 or 2 spoonfuls 
slowly. Another is to stand the glasses while being filled on a folded 
towel wet with cold water. Another plan is to put a silver spoon in 
the jar; but the folded towel is the best plan. 

Jelly bags should be made of white flannel, and wrung out of hot 
water, to prevent their absorbing too much of the juice. Tie the top 
of the bag closely when the liquor is all in, to prevent the flavor from 
evaporating. A wooden frame on which to tie the jelly bag while it 
is drijjping, is a convenience. L^se the bags for nothing but making 
jelly. 

Waste nothing when making jellies; the pulp can be put up as 
marmalade for tarts and cake fillings. 

To remove jelly from a glass, dip it into hot water for an instant; 
then take it out, and the jelly will come out easily and whole. 

The prevention of mold, keeping jellies, etc., are discussed in the pre- 
ceding "General Suggestions" (which see). 



JELLIES 493 

APPLE JELLY. — Use good, sour apples; slice them thin, seeds, 
skins and all; let them simmer with only the addition of a little water, 
until well cooked and soft; strain, add 1 lb. sugar to each pint of 
juice, and finish as directed previously for making jelly. If desired, 
a little lemon flavor can be added. • 

PLUM AND APPLE JELLY can be made by using 1 part 
plum juice to 2 parts sour apple juice, and finishing like other jelly. 
It is very good. 

CRAB APPLE JELLY — Cut them into pieces, but do not pare 
or remove the seeds; boil until soft in a jar set in hot water, 
adding barely water enough to cover them ; mash them, drain off the 
juice without squeezing; use 1 lb. sugar for each pint of juice, and 
finish as before directed. A little lemon juice can be added for flavor 
if desired; or a little stick cinnamon boiled with the juice and taken 
out before putting in the sugar, is good. 

The pulp and juice which remain can be made into marmalade. 
Add more water and cook to a pulp; strain through a sieve to remove 
skin, cores and seeds. Add brown sugar to the puli3, pound for 
pound. It needs careful watching and stirring to prevent burning. 

DRIED APPLE JELLY.— Boil the dried apples until tender, 
strain through the jelly bag, and allow f lb. sugar to the pint of 
juice; adding a little lemon juice will improve the flavor; then finish 
like other jellies. 

BLACKBERRY JELLY.— Choose berries which are under rather 
than over ripe; the wild berries are best. Cook till soft, adding very 
little water; strain through the jelly bag, and allow 1 lb. sugar to 
each pint of juice. Finish like other jellies. 

Raspberry and Strawberry Jellies are made just the same way. 

RED CURRANT JELLY.— Choose good, ripe currants; pick 
them over, but do not stem them; wash, drain and mash them in a 
porcelain kettle; it will darken the jelly to heat them now; use a 
wooden masher; drain over night in the jelly bag, but do ndt squeeze 
it. Use 1 pint sugar to 1 pint juice; boil and finish as directed for 
jellies. After putting in the hot sugar, let it boil till it thickens 
when exposed to the air on the spoon (which will be in 3 to 5 
minutes) and then put it into the glasses immedititely. A second 
grade of jelly, not so clear, can be made by squeezing the remaining 
juice out of the currants, and finishing it like jelly. 

Various Jellies. — A very nice jelly is made by using red and white 
currants in equal parts. A raspberry and currant jelly can be made 



494 



JELLIES 



by using 1 part red currants and 2 parts red raspberries. It is very- 
fine. A icihl cherry and currant jelly can be made by stewing 2 
parts wild cherries (stones and all) and 1 part red currants. 

White currant jelly can also be made like other currant jellies. 

CHERRY JELLY.— Pick the fruit (Morellos are best) when 
not quite ripe; wash and put on the stove in cold water iciih tJic pits 
in; let it simmer (not boil) until the cherries are white and tender; 
strain through the jelly bag, 
allow 1 pint sugar to 2 pints 
juice, and cook briskly until 
done. Cooks sometimes add ^ 
part of red currant juice, but 
cherry jelly can be made without 
it. Leave the pits in because a 
large part of the pectose is in 
the i^its. 

CRANBERRY JELLY.- 

Pick over the cranberries care- 
fully, and put 2 cups water in 2 
quarts of cranberries; let boil, 
stirring occasionally, until soft 
enough to mash; strain, and fin- 
ish like other jellies. Use 1 lb. of sugar to 1 pint of juice. 

The Ckanbekby is nearly related to the bilberry. The species are all natives of 
cold countries, and grow well on swampy land. The fruit is too acid to be eaten 
raw, but has a very pleasant taste when cooked. The juice contains malic and 
citric acid. 

QUAVA JELLY.- Take ripe guavas, 
pare, quarter, and drop the sections into 
cold water. Simmer them till tender in 
water enough to nearly cover them; 
strain, hanging the bags up to drain all 
night, but do not squeeze them; boil the 
juice 1 hour, uncovered, skim, and add 
white sugar, using 1 scant pint to each 
pint of juice. Let simmer till the jelly 
is clear, add lemon or lime juice to taste, 
and let simmer ^ hour more, skimming 
frequently. Pour into jars and seal 
when cold. Guava jelly can be made 
from any species of guava, and it is 
known the world over as one of the most delicious of all conserves. 




CEANBEKEY, 




1. MEXICAN GUAVA. 

2. WEST INDIAN GUAVA. 



JELLIES 



495 




GOOSEBERRY JELLY.— Take full grown, but not quite ripe 
gooseberries; cover with water and boil until they are soft; strain the 
juice, and allow 1 lb. sugar to each pint of juice; finish like other 
jelly. 

GRAPE JELLY. — Isabella, Concord or Clinton grapes are best 
to use; have them freshly picked, and finish as directed for other 
jellies, using 1 lb. of sugar to 1 pint of juice. 

GREEN GRAPE JELLY. — Use green grapes; wash, stem, and 
cook till soft with a very little water; mash with a wooden pestle, 
strain through the jelly bag, and allow l-^- lbs. sugar to each pint of 
juice. Finish like other jelly. It makes the nicest jelly there is to 
go with poultry and game, and is superior to ripe grape jelly. 

MANGO JELLY.— Make as directed for guava 
jelly, only i^eel the mangoes, stone them, and 
throw them, before being cooked, into a very weak 
solution of lime or lemon juice. 

PEACH JELLY — Use 1 part very sour apple 
juice to 2 parts peach juice, and make like other 
jellies. Equal parts are sometimes used. A little 
lemon juice is sometimes added. 

Pear Jelly can be made the same as peach jelly. 

PLUM JELLY.— Choose the common blue 
plums, wash them, cook until soft in a porcelain 
kettle, adding 1 cup water to each 2 quarts plums; 
then drain through the jelly bag, and finish like 
other jellies. 

Damson Jelly is made the same way. 

The Plum has been cultivated from ancient times, and 
the first iine varieties were probably introduced into Europe 
from the East, the Damson or Danuiscene talcing its name 
from Damascus. When perfectly rijie the best varieties are 
■wholesome. Some varieties are too astringent, though by 
baking they loose much of their bad qualities, aud are used 

in tarts and preserves, but they slrould be used with moderation. If eaten unripe, 
they are almost sure to cause diarrhea. Tliey are not very rich in sugar, but 
contain much pectose or vegetable jelly, which gives them their gelatinizing 
quality. 

QUINCE JELLY. — Cut the quinces into small pieces, and put 
them, skin, seeds and all, into a preserving kettle (a large part of the 
pectose is found in the seeds); cover with water and boil till soft; 
mash, and drain in the jelly bag over night; allow 1 lb. sugar to each 
pint of juice, and boil to the jelly degree. The pulp of the quinces, 
left after making the jelly, can be rubbed through a fine colander, 




DAMSONS. 



496 MARMALADES 

and, using as much sugar as pulp, boil them together for marmalade. 
Another plan is to use the best portions of the fruit for canning or 
preserves, and make jelly with the hard ^jarts, cores and skin, and 
this works well. Sour apple juice is sometimes mixed with quince 
juice. 

RHUBARB JELLY — Cut the rhubarb into pieces about 1 inch 
long, but do not peel it; cook it to a soft pulp in water enough to 
cover it; strain through the jelly bag, and allow 1 lb. sugar to each 
pint of juice; finish like other jelly. Apple and rhubarb mixed 
together, and finished like other jellies, is very nice; flavor it with 
lemon. 

WILD PLUM JELLY.— Gather wild plums just before they 
ripen; use 7 pints of water to 5 pints of plums, and boil until they 
fall to pieces; then strain through the jelly bag; allow 1 lb. sugar to 
each pint of jaice, and boil rapidly to the jelly degree. They make 
very nice jelly. Some cooks boil the plums with water until they 
burst, and then throw it away because of its bitterness; then boil the 
plums again in water to cover them until they fall to ijieces; then 
finish as above. The pulp remaining can be made into a good 
marmalade by using the pulp and sugar pound for pound. 

TUTTI FRUTTI JELLY — Use equal quantities of red currants, 
red raspberries, strawberries and morello cherries; stone the latter 
carefully saving all the juice; mix together all the fruit and squeeze 
it well; after straining through the jelly bag, allow 2 lbs. sugar to 
each pint of juice, and finish like other jelly. 

MARMALADES. 

These are made from the pulp of fruit boiled with sugar. If 
marmalade is made at the same time with jelly, the pulp left from 
the jelly can be used and waste prevented. Rub the pulp through a 
sieve, and for acid fruits the rule is to allow equal weights of sugar 
and pulp; sweet fruits need a little less. . If too much sugar is used 
the sides and tops of the vessels containing the marmalade will be 
covered with a coating of sugar, and it will candy or crystallize; 
fermentation will take place if too little sugar is used, or the boiling 
is insufficient. The rule is to boil slowly ^ to f hour, with frequent 
stirring to prevent burning. 

To Test Doth MarmaSade and Jam let a spoon of it cool on a plate,- 
it will be done if it looks glittering and dry, and neither moisture nor 
juice collects on it. 



MARMALADES 



497 



If the sugar is not added until the fruit is mashed and cooked, 
less boiling will be needed, and the marmalade will be better and 
smoother. When done, put it in glasses as explained in the pre- 
ceeding '• General Suggestions." Keep in a cool, dry place. 

The term marmalade is derived from the Portuguese marmelo, 
meaning a quince, to which it was first applied; but it has come to 
be applied to similar preparations of any fruit Marmalades are 
very wholesome, and serve to stimulate 
the appetite. 

GRAPE MARMALADE. -Pulp the 

grapes, but put the skins and puljD 
together into the preserving kettle and 
let boil. When the skins are tender 
let cool until you can work the mass 
through a fine colander. Wash the 
kettle and return the strained grapes, 
set over the fire, and add the same 
measure of sugar as there is of the grape. 
Let boil 5 minutes, and put hot into 
jelly tumblers. If the grapes are not 
quite ripe the marmalade will be more 
firm. 




OONCOKD GKAPES. 



ORANGE MARMALADE.—Pare 

the yellow rind carefully off the oranges; remove the thick white 
rind and squeeze the pulp through a sieve; add \ cup of water 
to 4 lbs. fruit, and set on to boil; add the yellow parings of the rind, 
cut into pieces, and boil \ hour, or until the rind is soft; the juice, 
pulp and yellow peel of a lemon can be added if liked; add 1 lb. sugar 
to 1 lb. j)ulp, boil a few minutes and put into jelly glasses. 

Rhubarb can be added instead of*the lemon if desired; use 1 quart 
of sliced rhubarb for 6 oranges and boil with them. It makes a fine 
combination and gives a variety. 

PEACH MARMALADE — Choose fine, ripe peaches; pare, stone 
and cut them up; add a Very little water and cook in the farina 
boiler until reduced to a pulp; pass through a colander and allow -| 
lb. sugar to each lb. of pulp; put it on the stove and boil until it 
will jelly, or until it will drop from the spoon in clots. Stir it from 
the bottom with a wooden spoon all the time it is on the fire to pre- 
vent burning. When done, seal in jars. 

Apricots, Apples, Pears, Quinces, and otlier Fruits can be i3repared in 

the same way. 
32 



498 MAKMALADES 

PLUM MARMALADE. — Stone the plums, and put in the ket- 
tle with a very little water, boil till the fruit softens, and then mash 
to a pulp with a wooden pestle; do not take it from the stove, but 
add 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. of pulp, and boil 15 or 20 minutes longer; 
then i)ut it in jars. 

QUINCE MARMALADE.^ Pare, core and slice the quinces; put 
the seeds, cores and skins in the kettle, add barely enough water to 
cover them, and boil sloirlij ^ hour; strain through cloth, and when 
nearly cold add it to the quinces in the farina boiler and boil until 
it is reduced to a smooth paste, mashing and stirring the (quinces 
with a wooden spoon; if the flavor is desired the juice of 2 oranges 
can be added to each 3 lbs of pulp; now add | lb. sugar to each 
pound of fruit, and boil 10 minutes longer, stirring continually. 
Then put in jars. 

No. 2. — Quinces which are not good enough to be utilized in 
other ways can be used; wash, core, but do not 
pare them, and cut into pieces; add 1 teacup 
of water to each pound of fruit, and boil slowly, 
mashing and stirring with a wooden spoon until 
soft; add | lb. sugar to 1 lb. pulp; boil them to- 
gether for 5 or 10 minutes, strain through a 
colander and jDut in jelly glasses. 

Sour Apples or Crab Apples can be put up in like 
manner. quj^^oe. 

The Quince is a native of ludia, whence it was intro- 
duced to Greece. Tlie ancients preserved it in honey, or BWeet wine reduced 
}4 by boiling. It makes a fine marmalade and a little added to apple pie iai- 
proves the llavor. 

RASPBERRY MARMALADE.- Either use the raspberries alone, 
or add 1 cup of red currant juice to each 2 lbs. fruit; boil 30 minutes, 
mashing and stirring well with a wooden spoon; add | lb. sugar to 
every pound of fruit, and cook 20 minutes more. 

Blackberry Marmalade can be made the same way, but without 
any currant juice. 

RHUBARB MARMALADE. - Cut the rhubarb into pieces 1 or 
2 inches long; to each li- lbs. of rhubarb allow 1 lb. sugar, | of a 
lemon peel cut thin, and ^ oz. of bitter almonds blanched and 
divided. Boil all well together and put up like other marmalades. 

STRAWBERRY MARMALADE OR JAM. -Allow 5 lbs. sugar 
and 1 lb. currants to 6 lbs. strawberries; mash the currants in the 
preserving pan with 1 cup water, j)ut it on the stove and boil; then 




FKUIT CHEESES 



499 



add the strawberries (which should be picked over), then press and 
rub them into an earthenware pan through a fine sieve. Let the 
sugar boil to the consistency of thick molasses, add the fruit pulp, 
and boil briskly, with constant stirring, for 20 minutes. Skim it, 
and put into jars. 

TOMATO MARMALADE.- First scald, peel and slice the 
tomatoes; allow 2 lbs. sugar to 1 lb. tomatoes, and boil them down 
together until well thickened; then add 1 tablespoon powdered gin- 
ger, and the juice and peel of 2 lemons, for every 8 ll)s. of tiMuatoes. 
Boil about 3 hours, skimming ofp the froth that rises; wkea very 
thick put in jars. 

VEGETABLE MARROW MARMALADE.— 

Pare and core the marrow, cut in thin slices, add 
12 oz. of sugar for each i^ound of marrow and let 
stand all night; then bring to a boil, stirring con- 
stantly, and cook till almost soft; turn into a bowl 
and when cold add 2 good tablespoons of orange 
or lemon marmalade for every jjound of marrow 
used; put back on stove, stir to the boil and sim- 
mer until it sets. 




VEGETABLE MAEEOW. 



FRUIT CHEESES. 

• Fruit cheeses are somewhat like marmalades, and they are gen- 
erally used for desserts. Stone fruits, like plums, quinces, etc., make 
the best. The method is usually to boil the fruit until it is soft 
enough to pass through a sieve, and then the pulp is boiled with 
sugar until it will solidify when cold. Cherries are often used, and 
gooseberries sometimes. 

APRICOT CHEESE.— Wipe apricots, 
cut them into pieces, and take equal quanti- 
ties by weight of apricots and sugar; wipe 
the inside of the preserving pan with fine 
salad oil, put in the fruit, and boil it to a 
pulp, stirring all the time: add the sugar, 
continue to stir, and boil sharply till it is a 
golden brown; it will cling to the spoon 
when done, and leave the pan clear. Pour 
it into small molds and cover. It takes 

about (5 hours to make. Some people blanch and shred the kernels, 
and add thom, 







APEICOTS. 



500 FRUIT PASTES 

The Apkicot is a native of Armenia, and belongs to the same species as the 
plum. Its delicious fruit much resembles the peach. It only keeps a short time, 
and is either eaten fresh or is made into preserves or jelly. It has sometimes been 
condemned for its laxative qualities, but this may have been caused by eating the 
fruit when unripe, or in too great quantities. Delicate persons should use a lib- 
eral quantity of powdered sugar with them if they eat them uncooked. The ker- 
nels are sometimes used for the same purposes as almonds. Apricots contain 
rather less water, and more sugar and pectine than peaches. 

ALMACK CHEESE — Split 4 doz. plums, and take out the stones; 
pare, core, and slice 2 doz. pears and 2 doz. apples; put the whole in 
layers into a stone jar, and put them into a cool oven; when suffi- 
ciently tender press them through a coarse sieve into a preserving 
]pan, and stir in 1 lb. of sugar to every pound of fruit. Stir them 
over a moderate fire until very firm. Cut into slices after it has be- 
come sufficiently cool. 

QUINCE CHEESE. —This is simply marmalade which has been 
boiled down very thick, and put into little jars. It will be as solid 
as cheese when turned out, and it can be served for tea or luncheon, 
cut into slices like cheese. 

PLUM CHEESE — Add enough water to keep from burning, and 
boil the plums; now mash them, strain, and add -i- lb. good brown 
sugar to 1 lb. plums; boil down until thick, with continual stirring, 
and put in small jars. It will turn out firm as cheese, and can be 
served for tea or luncheon cut in slices. 



FRUIT PASTES. 

These are a kind of marmalade, consisting of the pulp of fruits, 
first evaporated to a proper consistency, and then boiled with sugar. 
The mixture is then poured into a mold, or spread on sheets of tin, 
and afterwards dried in the oven or on the stove until it assumes the 
form of a paste. Strips may be cut from one of these sheets and 
formed into any shape desired. Use only fine white sugar for these 
pastes. Use a wooden spoon to stir them with, and watch them care- 
fully, as, if they burn in cooking it will spoil them. The cakes can 
be cut up and kept in tin or paper boxes with layers of paper be- 
tween; they are fine with desserts. 

APRICOT PASTE. — Use ripe apricots; put them in a preserving 
l^an with a little sugar, and place them on the side of the range to re- 
duce them to a paste; rub them through a- hair sieve, allow ^ lb. 
sugar to 1 lb. pulp, and boil it 10 minutes; then finish like apple 
paste. 



FRUIT PASTES 501 




APPLE PASTE.— Choose sound ripe apples, 
peel, core tliem, and cook in a little water till quite 
soft; rub them through a hair sieve, using a wooden 
spoon; weigh the pulp and put it in the preserving 
pan, with the same weight of sugar, and boil 20 
minutes; remove it, spread out thin on plates or in 
molds, and dry in a cool oven or on a cool stove. If 
desired it can be colored with some of the vegetable 
colors elsewhere given. 



The Apple belongs to the rose order. The cultivated 
varieties have sprung from the wild apple or crab. This de- 
lightful fruit is made very wholesome by baking or boiling. 
The acid is mainly malic. The hard, acid kinds are unwhole- ^ppLj; ^jjd blossom 
some if eaten raw, but by cooking a great deal of their acid 

is decomposed and converted into sugar. A large part of its acid is turned to 
sugar as the fruit ripens, or even after it is gathered, by the process of maturation. 
When apples decay, the sugar is changed to a bitter principle, and the gum be- 
comes moldy and offensive. Old cheese has a remarkable effect in meliorating the 
effects of the apple when eaten with it, probably from the volatile alkali or ammo- 
nia of the cheese neutralizing the acid. 

CURRANT PASTE.— Take red or white currants, pick them 
over carefully, rub through a sieve, and put the mashed fruit in a 
pan on the fire, stirring it until it forms a paste; allow 1| lbs. sugar 
for 1 lb. pulp, mix them together, and boil 20 minutes. Finish like 
other paste. 

ORANGE PASTE. — Press the juice out of 5 Seville oranges, 
and boil them until the rinds are very soft indeed; with a thin 
wooden or silver spoon scoop out all the pulp, and pound the rinds as 
fine as possible in a mortar with ^ the extracted juice. Rub it all 
through a hair sieve, and simmer on the fire until it becomes like 
marmalade. Empty it out, weigh it, and allow 2 lbs. sugar for 1 lb. 
pulp; boil it 10 minutes, and spread out and dry like apple paste. 

Lemon Paste can be made the same way, but do not use any of the 
juice. 

PEACH PASTE. — Cut the peaches into small pieces, and cook, 
with barely enough water to cover them, until reduced to a pulp; 
allow ^ lb. sugar to 1 lb. pulp, and boil 20 minutes; finish like other 
paste. 

PLUM PASTE. — Any kind of preserving plums will do; stone 
them and boil, with very little water, to a jam; rub through a hair 
sieve, jDut on the stove, and reduce to a paste; allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 
lb. pulp, and cook 20 minutes; finish like other paste. 

RASPBERRY PASTE. -Take 2 quarts of ripe red raspberries, 
put them in an eathern jar and place it in a kettle of boiling water} 



502 JAMS 

boil until the juice is well separated, then pulp them through a fine 
colander. Mix with the fruit an equal weight of sugar, put it in a 
saucepan, and cook until it is a firm paste— stirring constantly to 
prevent burning; spread on plates to nearly dry in the oven, then cut 
it in squares, cover both sides well with i^ulverized sugar, and pack 
in paper boxes with layers of white paper between. 
Strawberry Paste can be made the same way. 



JAMS. 

These are made with large fruit cut into small pieces, or with 
whole small fruits. In making common jams the fruit should be 
well boiled before the sugar is added, and care should be taken that* 
it is not so much thickened that the sugar will not easily dissolve. 
The old rule was equal amounts of fruit and sugar, but acid fruits re- 
quire more sugar than those which are sweet. If they burn at all in 
cooking the flavor is spoiled; to prevent this close attention is needed 
and constant stirring. Jam will not keep well unless sufficiently 
boiled, and enough sugar is used, but do not use too much sugar. 

As jams and preserves made from stone fruits are apt to ferment, 
care should be taken to get rid of the moisture, and only enough 
water added in cooking to simply prevent burning. 

In the "General Suggestions" previously given we explain about 
putting jams into glasses or jars when done. The hardening 
of fruit is discussed under "Preserves," but mashing also prevents 
hardening. 

APPLE JAM. — Pare, core and slice the apples; boil them till 
soft, add I lb. sugar for 1 lb. fruit, and cook till done. A fine flavor 
will be imparted by tying in muslin a little lemon peel, ginger and 
cloves and boiling it with the fruit; take it out when the jam is done. 

APPLE GINGER. {Iniifaiion of Preserved Gimjer).— Bo\\ to a 
syrup 3 oz of ginger, 3 lbs. of sugar, the juice and f the rind of a 
lemon and 1-i pints of water; take out the. rind and add 3 lbs. of ap- 
ples pared, cored, and cut into irregular strips to imitate ginger; 
boil 50 or 60 minutes. They should not break and should be soft 
and clear; there will be a good supply of syrup. Put in jars when 
cold. 

BLACKBERRY JAM.— Take 5 lbs. of fruit, mash it, and boil 
10 minutes; then add 7 lbs. sugar, and boil 20 minutes, stirring to 
keep from burning. Put into the glasses hot; tie up when cold. 



JAMS 503 

CHERRY JAM. — Before stoning the cherries, weigh them, and 
to 1 lb. cherries allow ^ lb. sugar; then stone them and boil until the 
juice is nearly evaporated, stirring constantly; then add the sugar 
and add also 1 pint of red currant juice for each G lbs. of cherries 
used, and add also 1 lb. sugar for each pint of currant juice used; 
then finish like other jams. 

RED CURRANT JAM.— Pick over the currants carefully, and 
allow f lb. sugar to each pound fruit; let them simmer in the farina 
boiler until soft; then set aside until next morning, and cook them 
gently in a porcelain kettle 25 minutes; then put into glasses. 

White Currant and Barberry Jam can be made the same way, but for 
barberries allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. berries. 

GOOSEBERRY JAM. Pick the gooseberries just as they begin 
to turn; stem, wash and weigh them; to 4 lbs. of fruit add -| teacuj) 
of water, boil until soft, then add 4 lbs sugar, and boil until clear. 
The jam will be clear and ambercolored if the fruit is picked at the 
right stage, and much nicer if it is not i:)icked until fully ripe. 

GRAPE JAM. — Allow f lb. sugar to 1 lb. grapes; squeeze the 
pulp from the skin; boil the pulp a few minutes and remove the 
seeds ]:)y loassing through a sieve; then add the skins and sugar, 
boil until it thickens, and put up like other jam. 

Green Grape Jam is made the same way. 

ORANGE JAM — Sweet oranges are best; remove the rind 
and then the seeds by passing it through a colander or sieve; to 1 lb. 
jmli) and juice allow 1 lb. sugar; l)oil 10 minutes, add the sugar and 
cook till done; put up like other jams. 

PINEAPPLE JAM. —Pare it, cut in small pieces, and cook in 
just enough water to cover until tender. Allow | lb. sugar to 1 lb. 
fruit; make the sugar into a syrup, add the joineapple and boil 10 
minutes; then put up like other jams. 

Pineapple Parings. After the fruit has been trimmed for making 
jams, etc., wash the peel in warm water, dry it, put it in a ssauce=pan, 
add cold water to cover, and simmer h hour, or so; then strain the 
liquid, boil it with sugar, and it can be served with puddings, etc.; or 
if essence of pineapple is added when cold it will serve for ices, 
sweet sauces for puddings and the like. 

PLUM JAM.— Allow I lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit before it is stoned; 
then take out the stones and stew the fruit in a little water till soft; 
X^ass it through a coarse sieve, add the sugar, and cook till done. Put 
up like other jam. 



504 JAMS 

QUINCE JAM — Cook any desired amount of quinces until 
soft, in as little water as possible without burning; pour off the 
water and rub the fruit with a wooden spoon until smooth; add 10 
oz. sugar to 1 lb. fruit, let it boil 20 minutes, and remove it from the 
fire, put up like other jams. 

RASPBERRY JAM.— Mash the berries, and treat as directed 
for strawberries. If 2 parts rasj^berries and 1 part red currants 
are mixed it makes a fine jam, or add a little currant juice. 

RHUBARB JAM.— Allow 1 lb. sugar for 1 lb. rhubarb; cut up 
the fruit into small pieces, put on the sugar, and let it stand several 
hours, or until next morning; then take out the fruit, and boil the 
syrup until it thickens; then put in the fruit and let it simmer 
gently until done, stirring it to prevent its burning; then put in 
glasses. 

STRAWBERRY JAM.— Hull the berries, put them over the 
fire, and boil gently |- hour, kee^jing them constantly stirred; allow f 
lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit; remove, the berries from the fire, add the 
sugar, and then boil them again | hour. Then put in jars as before 
direct'ed. 

The Strawbekky was known to the ancient Greeks and Romans, and is indi- 
genous in all temperate climates. It does not contain 
much nutritive matter, but is very wholesome. The seed= 
like pericarps are not easy of digestion and sometimes 
cause intestinal irritation en which account some physi- 
cians have recommended passing them through muslin 
before being eaten. They have more water in their com- 
position than gooseberries or currants, and tliey aro 
cooling, laxative, and shghly diuretic. Some epicures 
grate the zest of an orange over them, thinking it 
improves the taste, especially when a little sugar is added 
also. 

TOMATO JAM — Use equal weights of 
sugar and tomatoes; peel and slice them, add 

, T 1 i • ji ;•! 1 STRAWBERRY. 

the sugar and let stmmer gently untu done, 

which should be in about an hour., A pleasant flavor may be im- 
parted by tying lemon peel and ginger in a muslin bag, and letting 
it cook with the fruit, lifting it out when that is cooked. 

VEGETABLE MARROW JAM.— Peel and core 6 lbs. of medium 
sized vegetable, marrows cut into strips about 2 inches long; cover 
it with 6 lbs. of sugar and let stand all night;- then add the juice and 
grated rind of 4 lemons and 1 oz. of bruised ginger and boil 1 J hours, 
skimming well. A pinch of cayenne is considered an improvement 
by some cooks. 




PRESERVES 505 

PRESERVES. 

The fruit used for preserves should be perfectly sound, fresh 
and ripe, and use good sugar. If you would have good preserves 
work carefully. A very large amount is less easily handled than less. 

The old rule of jDound for pound of sugar and fruit is hardly 
reliable, because fruits differ so much in sweetness. If too much 
sugar is used the fruit may be unpleasantly sweet, and very little of 
the fruit flavor left. 

Cooking the Fruit. — Large fruits should cook until a broom straw 
will readily pierce them. To avoid burning, boil them gently. They 
must be soft enough to be readily penetrated by the sugar (as that is 
what preserves them) but that is all. Over boiling is to be avoided, 
and small fruit especially, like strawberries and raspberries, are 
spoiled if much cooked. The object aimed at is to have the sugar 
thoroughly permeate the fruit enough to i)reserve it, but without 
injuring its shape more than necessary. Fruit is darkened in color 
and its flavor injured by long boiling. Small fruits and berries 
should be taken out of the syrup, when done, with a small strainer, 
as a cup will not separate the syrup from them. 

When the fruit has simmered in the syrup until done quite 
through, it may be taken out with a skinnner and set on dishes to 
cool; then boil up the syrup until it begins to jelly, put back the 
fruit, boil it up once, and then put it into jars. Another way is to 
put the fruit directly into jars instead of on wishes to cool; then boil 
the syrup and pour it over, and tie up as directed in the " General 
Suggestions" at the beginning of this section. Either method 
works well. 

Hardening Fruit. — Those fruits like strawberries, tomatoes, peach- 
es, apples, etc., which are liable in cooking to become too soft, can be 
allowed to stand a few hours with sugar on them, or pour on hot 
syrup; this hardens them by extracting the juice. There are some 
fruits like citrons, quinces, pineapi^les, etc., which harden if put into 
strong syrup at first; to avoid this they can be cooked first in water 
or weak syrup until tender, and then the balance of the sugar added. 

Canned Fruit can be used in making preserves, and then less 
sugar is needed. Adding a few slices of lemon or orange will 
improve the flavor. 

Keeping Preserves. — Preserves keep better in glass than in earth- 
enware vessels, but glass should be wrapped in i^aper to keep the 
light from bleaching the fruit; keej) in a cool, dark, dry place. 



506 



PRESERVES 



To Clarify and Prepare Syrup. — A good syrup can be made with 2 
pints granulated or loaf sugar, and 2 cups water; i)^^t tliem in a 
porcelain kettle, and stir in the white of 1 egg beaten light but not 
dry; bring it slowly to a boil, stirring frequently, and then at once 
move to the back of the range, cover it, and let it simmer gently, not 
boil rapidly, for ^ hour; then take off the cover and remove the cake 
of thick white scum appearing on top. The syrup will l)e clear and 
ready for use. White of egg, being albumen, coagulates at 160°, 
and as it rises to the surface it acts like a strainer, carrying the 
impurities with it; hard boiling breaks it into small grains, and it 
does not strain well. Small fruits, like strawberries, raspberries, 
currants, etc., put into this syrup will retain their form, color, and 
their fresh and natural taste. Juicy fruits require a rich syrup, like 
the above, but dry fruits which require long cooking need a thinner 
syrup made of ec^ual parts of water and sugar. 

Graining.— A little acid added to syrup will prevent graining, as 
explained for candy making. 

TABLE SHOWING THE TIME TO BOIL AND THE AMOUNT OF SUGAR 
NEEDED FOR VARIOUS FRUITS IN MAKING PRESERVES. 



NAME OF FRUIT. 

Apples, sour, quartered. 
Apples, sour, whole . . . . 

Blackberries 

Bkieberries 

Cherries 

Crabapples, whole . . . . 

Currants, ripe 

Grapes, wild 

Peaches, halved 

Peaches, whole 

Pears, small sour, whole 
Pears, Bartlett, halved. 

Pineapples, sliced 

Plums 

Quinces, quartered . . . . 

Rasi)berriefi 

Rhubarb, sliced 

Strawberries 

Tomatoes 

Whortleberries 



IME TO BOIL IN 
MINUTES. 


SUGAR NEEDED FOR EACH 
QUART OF FRUIT. 


10 


6 ounces 


30 


•6 




1 (moderately) 
5 


6 
4 




5 (moderately) 
25 


6 

8 




6 


8 




10 


8 




8 


8 




15 


8 




30 


8 




20 


6 




15 


6 




10 (moderately) 
25 


8 
10 




8 


4 




10 


10 




8 (moderately) 
20 


8 
8 




5 


4 





APPLE PRESERVES. — Choose firm, welhflavored apples, and 
proceed as directed for quinces. They can be improved by adding 



PRESERVES 507 

the juice of 1 lemon to each 1| lbs. of apples; or cut up and add a 
little cjuince. 

PRESERVED APRICOTS.— Stone and pare 1 lb. of the finest 
apricots, put them into a preserving pan, and dust on some double 
refined sugar; have ready and add 1 cup of the juice of white 
currants, pressed out of raw berries; 1^ lbs. loaf sugar, putting in 
half of it first, and adding the balance at 2 different times during the 
cooking. Boil them over a slow fire, and when done put them up, 
putting 2 or 8 in a glass; be careful not to break them in the skim- 
ming. A little more boiling makes it jam. 

CRAB APPLE PRESERVES.— The red Siberian crab is the 
best. Pick out those nearly x:>erfect, leaving the stems on; put them 
in the preserving kettle with enough warm water to cover them, heat 
this to boiling slowly, and simmer until the skins break. Drain and 
skin them; then with a pen^knife extract the cores through the blos- 
som ends. Weigh them, allow 1| lbs. sugar and a gill of water to 
every pound of fruit. Boil the water and sugar together until the 
scum ceases to rise, put in the fruit, cover the kettle, and simmer 
until the apples are a clear red and tender. Take out with a skim- 
mer, spread upon dishes to cool and harden; add to the syrup the 
juice of 1 lemon to 8 lbs. fruit, and boil until clear and rich. Fill 
jars I full with apples, pour in the syrup, and when cool, tie np. 

BARBERRY PRESERVES.— Use 1 lb. sugar 
and 1 cup water to 1 lb. of barberries; prepare 
the syrup and put in the barberries, let them 
cook until the syrup is quite thick, which will 
probably be in about 2 hours. Then put them up 
in jars with enough syrup to keep them. The 
rest of the syrup can be strained, put in bottles, 
and corked tight, and it can be used to make a 
delightful and a refreshing drink. 

The Babbekry is found in most parts of the world. Its 

r-.- ,■ ,■ , 1 ^.j rnu • • ■ 1 BAKBEERIE8. 

rruit IS cooling, astringent, and very acid. Ihe juice, mixed 
with water, makes a refreshing fever drink. The bright red 
berries, alternating with parsley, are a very pretty garnish for white meats. 

BLACKBERRY PRESERVES.— Choose the best berries, pick 
them over, and allow 1 11). sugar to 1 lb. berries; let them stand for 1 
or 2 hours spread on dishes with the sugar sprinkled on; then put 
them on the stove in a porcelain kettle, adding all the juice which 
came from them, and heat slightly. Now take them out, putting 
them on the plates, and boil the syrup for 5 minutes rapidly; then 




508 PRESERVES 

l)ut back the berries, and let tliem simmer {not boil); if they show a 
tendency to break, take them from the stove at once. Cool them 
slightly, and put in jelly glasses. 

Currants and Dewberries are put up the same way 

PRESERVED CHERRIES.— Select short^stemmed red cherries, 
or Morelloes, as sweet cherries are not suitable for preserving. 
Stone them, and save every drop of the juice; allow 1 lb. sugar to 
each pound of fruit; first put in a layer of sugar, then a layer of 
fruit, and so on until all are j)ut in; let them stand 2 or 3 hours, pour 
over the juice, and boil gently until the syrup begins to thicken; 
then put in jars. Adding 3 tablespoons of red currant juice to each 
lb. of fruit is an improvement. 

Currants may be put up the same way. White currants make 
fine preserves. 

CITRON MELON. — Pare and cut the melons into small j)ieces 
about i inch square. Put in a porcelain kettle; cover with water 
and boil until tender, but not to break; then put them in a cloth 
strainer and hang up to drain over night. The next day weigh the 
melon, and with an equal weight of granulated sugar make enough 
syrup to cover the melon, then boil gently until the melon is clear. 
By this time the syrup will have become quite thick. Set away in 
the kettle to stand over night, or until it is cooled through. Allow 4 
lemons to every pound of the jDreserves. Squeeze and strain the 
lemon juice on to the preserves, and with the hand lift and gently 
mix all together, being careful not to break the cubes of mvlon. Put 
cold into glass jars; place a few cloves, from which the heads have 
been taken, on the top of each jar; screw the cover on tightly, and 
put in a dark, cool place. It must be a month old before using. 
This is a delicious sweetmeat. Be sure that the lemons are not 
bitter. 

CITRON PRESERVES.— These should be 
made as late in the season as possible, when the 
melons are ripest. After paring, cut into fancy 
shapes, but not too small. Cook till tender, in just 
water enough to cover, with a large spoonful of al- 
um added. Drain the pieces well, and then cook i 
hour in the preserving syrup, with the juice of sev- 
eral lemons added, omitting the rind, as it is aj^t to 
impart a bitter taste. In a few weeks this citron may be taken from 
the syrup, drained, clipped in powdered sugar, and dried on plates in 
the sun, when it is very nice for cake, to add to its flavor and beauty. 




PKESERVES 509 

If this is to be done on a large scale, however, the pieces of citron 
should be quite large for convenience. 

CRANBERRY PRESERVES — Allow 1 lb. sugar to each pound 
of berries; make a strong syrup by adding M^ater, using only enough 
water to dissolve the sugar; put in the fruit boil until tender, and 
put into glasses. 

PRESERVED BLACK CURRANTS.— Pick over the currants 
and cook till all are broken. Add |- as much sugar (measured) as 
you have fruit. Cook ^ hour longer and seal. This is excellent for 
sore throat. 

FIG PRESERVES..— Gather the fruit when fully ripe but not 
cracked open; place it in a perforated tin bucket or wire screen, and 
dip it for a moment in a deep kettle of lye, hot and moderately 
strong (some prefer to let them lay an hour in limewater, draining 
them afterwards). Allow 1 lb. of sugar to 1 lb. figs, make it into a 
syrup; drain the figs, put them in, and boil until well cooked; skim 
out the figs and boil down the syrup until there is just enough to 
cover the figs; ixit the figs back in the syrup, let all boil, put into 
glasses while hot, and seal. 

GREEN FIG PRESERVES.— Lay the figs in cold water for 24 
hours; then simmer them until tender; put them again in cold water, 
and let them remain 2 days, changing the water each day. Then if 
you do not find them soft, give them another simmer and put them 
again into cold water until the next day. Then take 1 lb. sugar to 1 
lb. fruit, and with -f of it make a syrup and simmer the figs in it for 
10 minutes. In 2 days take the remaining -^- of the sugar and pour 
the syrup from the figs on it. Make a rich syrup, adding the peel of 
a lemon and a little raw ginger, and boil the figs in it; then mix all 
together and put into large jam=j)ots and tie them closely over. The 
figs may be cut in half if preferred, after they have simmered until 
soft. 

TOMATO FIGS.— These, although made from tomatoes, will 
nearly approach true figs, andwill keep as long as desired. Select 
good tomatoes, scald, skin them, and allow 1^ lbs. best brown sugar 
to each 4 lbs. tomatoes. Let them simmer gently in the sugar until 
they cook clear, and the sugar permeates them thoroughly (add no 
water), and then take them out and dry them, spread on dishes in 
the sun; while they are drying sprinkle a little syruj) on them. Pack 
them in layers with sugar between, in, boxes or jars. While drying 
do not let rain or dew fall on them. 



510 



PRESERVES 



GREEN GINGER PRESERVES — Put the ginger for 2 weeks 
every night and morning into boiling water; then paie off the outside 
skin with a sharp knife. Boil it in water till quite soft, and slice it 
into thin slices. Prepare a syrup of 1 lb. sugar to i pint water, clar- 
ify it, put in the ginger, and boil till it is clear. Let it cool before 
jiutting it in jars. 

MOCK GINGER PRESERVES — Boil small tender carrots, 
scrai^e them until free of all spots, and cut out the heart or middle 
portion. Steep them for several days in frequently changed water, 
until the flavor of the carrot has been completely destroyed. Allow 
1 quart of water, 2 lbs. sugar, 2 oz. whole ginger, and the thin peel 
(yellow only) of 1 lemon to each pound of prepared carrots. Boil ^ 
hour daily until the carrots are transparent. When done, add 
enough red pepper to make the preserves as hot as desired. 



GOOSEBERRY PRESERVES.— Allow 1 lb. sugar to each pound 
of goosel)erries; top and tail them, and put the berries and sugar into 
a deep jar in alternate layers; pour on enough red currant juice to 
dissolve the sugar and add the same weight of sugar; cook it next 
day in the preserving pan, and put it in glasses. 

GRAPE PRESERVES.— Pick from the stem, 
wash, drain, and weigh, and allow an equal weight of 
sugar; then press the skin from the pulp with the 
thumb and finger, and cook the pnlp gently; when 
the seeds loosen pass it through a sieve to remove 
them. Then put the skins into the juice, cover, and 
simmer gently until tender; add the sugar, keep it 
hot, wiiliout hoiUug, 15 minutes, and can. 

Grapes of all varieties are mostly natives of tropical and 
seini=tropical regions. Some varieties are dried and sold as rai- 
sins and currants. Fresh, ripe grapes, contain much sugar, 
sometimes nearly 20$^ and the acid is chiefly tartaric, part of 
which is combined with potash. All grapes are nutritive and 
wholesome, l)nt they are subject to fermentations, and when eat- 
en immoderately sometimes bring on colic. In moderation they may be safely 
eaten even by invalids, and are refrigerant, diuretic and laxative. 

GREEN GOOSEBERRY PRESERVES.— Top, tail and wash the 
gooseberries in cold water, and drain; then pour on boiling water and 
let stand a few minutes to scald; this will soften them and extract 
part of their acid; when tender, take them out with a skimmer and 
slip them into cold water, leave a few minutes and take out with the 
skinuncr, and slide carefully hito the syrup; have the syrui) made 
with 3 cups water and 1| lbs. sugar for each lb. of gooseberries; let 




SULTANA GRAPE. 



PRESERVES 



511 



them simmer slowly in the syrup until quite clear — about 20 min- 
utes; if they seem likely to break take them out sooner with the 
skimmer, and let the syrup boil a little longer; put them in the jars, 
and when cold pour on the syrup, and tie up. 

GREENGAGE PRESERVES.- Prick the plums with a fine 
needle to prevent their breaking, put them into a preserving pan 
with only enough water to cover them, and set them over a gentle 
fire until the water sinnners; then take them out and set them on a 
sieve to drain. Add to the water in which the plums were boiled 1 
lb. sugar to 1 lb. plums; boil it cj^uickly, skimming it as the scum 
rises, until the syrup thickens on the spoon; then put in the plums, 
let them boil until the sugar bubbles, and pour the whole into a Ija- 
sin; let it stand until the next day. Drain the syrup from the fruit, 
boil it up quickly, and pour it over the plums. Repeat this 4 days, 
which cooks the fruit without injuring the shape; then boil it in the 
syrup for 5 or 6 minutes, put into jars, and pour the syrup over. 
The kernels must be blanched and boiled with the fruit. 

Damsons can be put up the same way. 

Greengages are u variety of plum, although not the largest in size; for deli- 
cacy and richness of flavor they are unsurpassed, and are generally esteemed as 
one of the finest varieties. The name is derived from the Gage family who intro- 
duced them into England. 



HUCKLEBERRY PRESERVES.— Use | lb. of sugar and the 
juice of half a lemon to each lb. of huckleberries; put half the sugar 
on the berries, and let stand a few hours or over night; then drain off 
the juice, add 1 cup water, the lemon juice, and the balance of the 
sugar; set it on the stove till 
the sugar dissolves, boil quick- 
ly, and skim; then put in the 
berries and let it simmer 
merely until they are tender 
— about ^ hour; then take 
them out, put in jars and 
when cold, pour on the syrup 
and tie up. 

Bilberries can be preserved 
the same way. 

The Bilberry is found in the 
northern parts of the world, and it 
belongs to the same species as the 
whortleberry. Its composition and 
proi)erties are about the same, and 
it is very wholesome. 




512 



PRESERVES 



PRESERVED LEMONS.— Pare off the thin yellow skin care- 
fully, cut a small hole in the end, scoop out the pulp carefully with a 
silver spoon, rub each one with salt and drop it into clear cold water 
as fast as finished, which will prevent its turning dark; let them lie 
in it 5 or 6 days, and then boil them in fresh salt and water 15 min- 
utes. Have ready made a thin syrup of 1 quart of water to 1 lb. 
sugar; drain, and boil them in this for 5 minutes, and repeat once a 
day for 4 or 5 days; then put them in jars with the syrup and let 
them stand 6 or 8 weeks, as that will make them clear and plump; 
then take them out of the syrup. Make a fresh syrup of double 
refined sugar, with only enough water to moisten it; boil and skim 
it, put in the lemons, and let them simmer slowly until they are clear. 
Put them in small jars, covered as previously directed, and tie them 
up tight. 

MULBERRY PRESERVES.— Put about 1 lb. of mulberries into 
a preserving pan with |- cup water to prevent burning; simmer slowly 
over a slow tire until all the mulberries are soft; strain througli a 
fine sieve, and add 5 lbs. of sugar to each 4 cups of juice. Put the 
sugar into the preserving pan, pour the strained juice on it, boil up, 
and skim it well. Then add 4 lbs. of ripe mulberries, and let them 
stand in the syrup until warm; then boil 
them slowly for about | hour, and turn them 
out carefully into a china bowl until the next 
day; then repeat the boiling ^ hour, or until 
the syrup is thick and will jelly when cold. 
Put into jelly glasses, set away to cool, and 
then tie up. Care must be taken not to break 
the mulberries when boiling. 

The Mulberky is a tree of which there are mdny 
varieties. The black is cultivated for its fruit, and 
the white for its leaves on which silkworms feed. 
The black is a native of Persia. Some varieties 
attain a height of only 15 feet, and others grow to 45 mulbeeey. 

or 50 feet. The fruit is wholesome, cooling aiid rather 

laxative, but when eaten to any large extent it is apt to disorder the stomach and 
bowels. 

MUSKMELONS.— Choose ripe muskmelons, remove the seeds, 

peel, cut in pieces, put into a stone jar, and cover with scalding 

vinegar; let them stand until the next day, pour off the vinegar, heat 

it, and pour on them again; repeat this every day for 4 days. To 

each 5 lbs. of fruit allow 1 quart of vinegar, 3 lbs. sugar, and spices 

to suit; put all together, and simmer until the melons are tender; 

then set aside, and the second day joour off the syrup, and boil it 

down so there will be just enough to cover the melons. Then put 

in glasses. 




PRESEKVES 513 

PRESERVED ORANGES.— Select very ripe oranges, cut a small 
hole ill the stalk end, and scoop out the pulp with a silver spoon 
very clean, and be careful not to break the rind; save a A the juice by 
holding the orange over a bowl while scooping it out, and drop each 
one into a basin of cold water as fast as done; then drain them, i^ut 
into a porcelain kettle, and pour on enough boiling water to cover 
them, having dissolved in it 1 teaspoon of alum to each ^ gallon of 
water; let them simmer gently in this solution until almost trans- 
parent and clear; now drain them, put into cold water, change it 2 or 
3 times, and let them stand until next morning, then drain again, 
pour on boiling water to cover, and again gently simmer for 1|- hours, 
and drain them; now allow 1 lb. of sugar and 1 cup M^ater for each 
pound of the rinds, and make the sugar and water into a syrup; then 
l)ut in the oranges, together with the juice which was saved, and 
gently simmer until they are clear and tender; then take them out, 
lay them on dishes to dry, and set away 2 days, and the syrup also. 
Now take 4 fresh oranges for each 1 which is being preserved, cut 
them in two, extract the juice, and allow 1| lbs. sugar to each pint of 
it. Put this sugar and juice on the fire, and as soon as the sugar 
dissolves, boil it quickly to a thick jelly, which should be in about 20 
minutes; test it and it will be done if a teaspoon of it hardens at once 
when set in a saucer in a cool place. Now put this jelly into the or- 
anges, filling them full, and let it harden until the next morning. 
Then put them in glasses with the open end down, and pour on tlie 
first syrup, and tie them up. They will be found a delicious pre- 
serve. 

Lemons and Limes can be j)ut up in the same manner. 

Preserved Oranges No. 2. — Select good oranges and boil them in 
soft water until you can run a broom straw through the skin. Allow 
I lb. sugar for 1 lb. oranges, make it into a syrup, and clarify it; then 
drain the oranges from the water, pour on the hot syrup, and let them 
stand in it over night. Boil them in the syrup the next day until it 
is thick and clear; then put them in jars, pour the strained syrup on 
them, and tie up. 

ORANGE AND RHUBARB PRESERVES Take 6 oranges and 

carefully joeel off the thin yellow rind; remove the white rind and 
the seeds, and slice the pulp into a preserving pan, adding the yellow 
rind cut very fine. Add 1 quart of rhubarb cut fine, and 1 lb. to 1| 
lbs sugar, and boil the whole down and put up like any other pre- 
serves. 

PEACH PRESERVES — Select fine ripe peaches; pare, halve 
and stone them; allow 1 lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit, and put a layer of 
3S 



514 PRESERVES 

sugar in the kettle, then a layer of peaches, and so on alternately un- 
til all is used. Cover and let it stand until the next morning; then 
bring to a boil quickly, and let it si)iim('r merely, until the frviit is 
clear and tender. Blanch and add 4 i^each kernels for each pound of 
fruit, for flavor, when it begins to boil. Then lift out the fruit 
carefully, and put it into glasses; boil the syrup until thick (about 15 
minutes) and pour it over. 

Apricots and Nectarines can be put up in the same way. 

Pears can be put up in like manner, but they should be pared; 
leave the stems on, and if small put them up whole. Add no peach 
kernels for pears, apricots or nectarines. 

PRESERVING PEACHES WITHOUT COOKING.— Brush the 

down from the peaches, and j)ut them into a deep dish; pour enough 
boiling water on to cover them, and lay a thickly = folded towel over 
the dish, and let it stand until the water is nearly cold; then take out 
the peaches one by one and rub off the skins with a coarse towel. 
Then put a layer of sugar in a jar, then a layer of j)eaches, cover 
them thickly with sugar, and so on alternately, having sugar on top. 
Close and seal them down at once, and keep in a cool, dry place. 
Removing the skins by the use of hot water as above directed, is 
much easier than paring them. 

PRESERVED PEARS.— If large, they can be pared and quar- 
tered; if small, they can be pared and put up whole. Allow equal 
weights of fruit and sugar; make the sugar into a syrup, using 1 cup 
of water to the pound; when clear, put in the fruit and heat it 
through; then take it out and cool it; then put it back and cook un- 
til soft, and then put in jars. A clove stuck in the end of each pear 
before cooking imjoarts a pleasant flavor. Some peoj)le stew a few 
slices of lemon peel in the syrup for flavoring. 

PRESERVED PINEAPPLE— Pare off the rough outside care- 
fully, that nothing be lost, and slice the fruit; put it in a preserving 
pan, add 1 teacup of water to each pound of fruit, and boil gently 
until it is tender and clear; then take it out with a skimmer, add 1 
lb. of sugar to 1 lb. of fruit, stir until it is dissolved, then put in the 
pineapple and let it boil gently until it is transparent throughout; 
then take out the fruit, cool it, and put it into glass jars. Let the 
syrup simmer gently until it is thick and rich, and when nearly cool 
pour it over the fruit, and the next day seal up the jars. Pineapple 
is often put directly into the syvvLp without first boiling in water, but 
it is then tougher and not so good. 

See " Pineapple Jam " for a way to utilize the-parings. 




PRESEEVES 515 

PRESERVED PLUMS.— (1) Weigh them and allow 1 lb. sugar 
to 1 lb. plums; put a layer of sugar in a stone jar, then a layer of 
plums, and so on alternately until all are in, finishing with sugar; 
now put them in a moderate oven, and leave 
them until the oven cools, or put them in at 
tea=time, and let them stay all night; then boil 
and clarify the juice, after straining it from the 
plums; put the fruit in glasses, pour on the hot 
syrup, and tie up. (2) Another way is to allow 
I lb. sugar to each pound of fruit. Divide the 
plums, take out the stones, and put them on a 
dish with sugar strewed over; tho next day put 
them into a preserving pan and lot them sim- 
mer gently over a nice fire for about 30 minutes; plums. 
then ^ boil them quickly, removing the scum as it rises, and keep 
them constantly stirred, or the fruit will stick to the bottom of the 
IDan. Crack the stones, and add the kernels to the preserves when it 
boils. Then put up like other preserves. 

The Plum appears to have been introduced into Europe from the East where 
it has been cultivated from very ancient times. It is now extensively cultivated and 
is a very useful fruit. When perfectly ripe the best plums are wholesome, but 
some varieties are too astringent. They lose much of their bad qualities in cook- 
ing, but they should be eaten in moderation. They make good preserves. 

PUMPKIN PRESERVES.- Choose a good sweet pumpkin, pare, 
take out the seeds and cut into slices. Allow 1 lb. sugar and 1 gill 
of lemon juice for 1 lb. of pum]3kin. Put the pumpkin in a deep 
dish in layers, with the sugar sprinkled between, and pour the lemon 
juice on toj); let stand 2 or 3 days, and then boil all together, adding 
1 cup water for each 3 lbs. sugar used, until the jjum^jkin is tender; 
then let it stand for 1 week, when drain off the syrup, boil until it is 
quite thick, skim, and pour it hot over the pumi)kin. A little bruised 
ginger and lemon rind thinly pared may be boiled in the syrup to 
flavor the pumpkiu: 

STRAWBERRY PRESERVES— Select the largest berries, and 
use equal weights of strawberries and sugar; lay the fruit in deep 
dishes, and sprinkle ^ the sugar over them in fine powder; shake the 
dish so that the sugar may touch the under part of the fruit. The 
next day make a syrup with the remainder of the sugar and the 
juice drawn from the strawberries and boil until it jellies; then put 
in the strawberries carefully, and let them si))n)i<'r nearly an hour. 
Put them carefully in glass jars and fill up with the syrup; there will 
be more than enough to fill the jars, but after standing over night 



516 



PRESERVES 




QUINCE, 



the jars will hold more. Any syrup remaining can be used in mak- 
ing pudding sauces, etc. Putting strawberries up whole thus, is 
much the best way. 

Raspberries can be put up the same way 

QUINCE PRESERVES.— 

Take fine yellow quinces, and pare, 
quarter and core them (save cores 
and skins); add just water enough 
to cover the quinces, set them on 
the stove and simmer until soft, 
but not until they begin to break; 
carefully remove the fruit, spread 
it on dishes to cool, and into the 
water in which the quinces were 
boiled put the cores, seeds and 
parings; stew it 1 hour, covered 
closely, and strain it through a 
jelly bag; add 1 lb. sugar for each 
pint of this liquor, boil it up, 
skim, and put in the quinces 
and boil gently 25 minutes; let it stand in a deep dish, closely cov 
ered, 24 hours; then drain off the syrup, bring it to a boil, put in 
the fruit carefully, and boil ^ hour; then take it out as dry as pos- 
sible, spread it on dishes to cool, and boil the syrup down thick; fill 
jars I full of fruit, and pour on the syrup. The preserves should be 
of a fine red color. An equal amount of sweet apples can be cooked 
with the quinces (and without additional sugar), and the difference 
will hardly be noticed. 

GREEN TOMATO PRESERVES— Select small, even^sized toma- 
toes for preserving. To each 3 lbs. tomatoes take 2 fresh lemons; 
pare off the yellow rind thin, so as to leave the white part, and 
squeeze out the juice. First boil the tomatoes in water sufficient to 
cover them, until they begin to get tender; add the lemon and a few 
peacli leaves and jwwdered ginger tied in muslin bags; boil together 
until the tomatoes are tender, take them out carefully, strain the 
liquor, and add to it 1^ lbs. sugar for each pound tomatoes; put the 
tomatoes back into the syrup, and boil until they appear to be done. 
In the course of a week j)our the syrup from the tomatoes, heat it 
scalding hot, and pour it again on the tomatoes; then tie up. 

RIPE TOMATO PRESERVES.— For these use for 8 lbs. tomatoes. 
7 lbs. sugar, and the juice of -i lemons. Peel the tomatoes, and let 



PRESERVES 517 

lemon juice, sugar and tomatoes stand together over night; drain off 
the syrup and boil it, skimming it well; then put in the tomatoes and 
allow them to boil gently and steadily for 20 minutes. Take them out 
with the skimmer and spread them on dishes to cool. Boil down the 
syrup until it thickens, put the tomatoes in jars and pour the 
syrup over them hot. 

PRESERVED WATERMELON AND CANTELOPE RINDS.-It 

is a good plan to keep these rinds in a strong solution of salt and water 
until they are needed for preserving; the salt can then be removed 
by boiling them in fresh water. Now soak them in alum water (have 
it weak) for a little while, and then again boil in clear water until the 
alum taste disappears. Allow for every pound of rind 2 lbs. sugar, 
and make it into a rich syrui^, clarifying it; then boil the rind for 1 
hour in this syrup. Adding a little acid, like vinegar, will keep the 
syrup from graining. Flavor with lemon if desired. 




CANNING FRUITS, VEGETA- 
BLES, ETC. 

HEN it is properly done, fruits ana vegetables canned at 
home are both better and cheaper than those bought at 
stores. Select sound, fresh fruit, and use good sugar. 
The first record of canning appears in a paper sub- 
mitted to the English Society of Arts in 1807, by Mr. Saddington; 
but M. Appert who first put it into use on a large scale (about 1809) 
has generally received the credit for its discovery. Canning in its 
present form dates from a patent granted in 1823 to Pierre Angil- 
bert. 

The Pkinciples Involved. — The principles underlying the process of canning 
have been quite generally misunderstood, and successful fruit canning has been by 
many people supposed to depend upon the observance of certain methods which 
would result in the expulsion of the air, and the directions have been to boil fruit 
to expel the air, to heat the jars very hot, to stir the contents that all air bubbles 
may escape, to fill to overflowing, and seal immediately. It is impossible by any 
heating process to expel all the air. However full jars may be tilled with hot 
fruit, when cold there is more or less air at the top. The correct reason for heat- 
ing fruit is not to expel the air, but to destroy minute, living germs (bacteria*) 
that to a greater or less extent are always floating in the air, and which alight 
upon fruit and all other substances. These germs especially abound in the atmos- 
phere in the season when fruits ripen. Under favorable conditions they multiply 
with marvelous rapidity, and in a remarkably short space of time entirely change 
the composition of fruit and its juices. This disorganization of the fruit takes 
place to a greater or less extent according to the readiness with which the germs 
find access thereto, and the favorableness of the surrounding conditions. 

Experiment has demonstrated, beyond a reasonable doubt, that most of the 
bacteria which produce fermentation (for there are many varieties of them) can- 
not exist in a temperature above 140°, and nearly all die at 130° to 135°. The 
spores, however, (corresponding to seeds) are more tenacious of life than the de- 
veloped bacteria, but these are all killed at the temperature of boiling water if 
submitted to its action for some time, for they do not all die instantly, even at that 
temperature. It should also be said that the bacteria flourish best in a neutral or 
alkaline solution, while an acid solution is unfavorable to them, and the acid 
nature of many of the fruit juices hastens their destruction. Furthermore it is 
difficult to arrange so that the central parts of a can shall receive the same amount 
of heat as the surface, particularly in the case of solidly packed goods, like corn 
and beans, so that they need to be cooked for some time. 



* Bacteria and microbes are terms applied to minute organisms which abound 
everywhere, and which play an important part in the economy of nature, causing 
both fermentation and putrefaction. They are rather more like plants than ani- 
mals, and so small are they that the most powerful " microscope makes them ap- 
pear as little more than dots and rods. There are many varieties, hut in shape 
they take principally 3 different forms which may be compared to a lead pencil 
(those having this form are called bacilli), a ball (called cocks), and a corkscrew 
(called spirilum). 

618 



CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 519 

These being the principles involved, canning resolves itself simply into kill- 
ing all the bacteria and spores, and preventing any new ones from obtaining access 
to the fruit, and the simplest and most effectual method of doing this is the best. 

Fruit has often been cooked more than was necessary, but the housewife need 
not be troubled by having her fruit '"go all to pieces" and get " mussy " when 
being canned, if she handles it intelligently. Enclosing air in the can when it is 
sealed will do no harm, proiv'dcd such air has been heated hot enough to kill all 
germs floating in it. If the cans are not sealed perfectly air tight, cold, unsteril- 
ized air will in time enter the can, carrying in living germs. These are so inflni- 
tesimally small that they will pass through the most minute opening and they 
will then begin to propagate, and cause fermentation. 

The Breaking of Jars. — If fruit is put into jars and the jars put 
in a boiler, surrounded with water and boiled, the jars are liable to 
crack if set directly on the metal bottom. Breaking will be prevent- 
ed by putting several thicknesses of wet cloth under the jars; or use 
strips of wood, or hay or straw. Wrapping the jars in hay or straw 
simply keeps them from touching each other and allows the water to 
circulate around them freely. 

A fruit jar for canning hot fruit need never be heated by rolling 
in hot water or otherwise; a cloth wrung from cold water and com- 
pletely swathing the jar will insure against cracking, if the jar is 
perfect, and if it is not it will be likely to crack in any event. The 
cloth should be soft, and touch the jar in every part, and cover the 
glass well at the top. 

Utensils.— See what we say about "The Utensils Used" in the 
introduction to our previous chapter on " Jams, Jellies, etc.," for 
the action of the acids in fruits on tin, copper, etc. 

Peaches. — If peaches are dipped in scalding hot water for a 
minute (some use hot lye) and then into cold water, the skin will 
readily slij^ off. If the stones are cracked and the kernels slightly 
cooked in the syrup which is poured over them it will be an improve- 
ment. The tastelessness of canned peaches sold in the stores often 
results from not doing this. 

Pare Fruit with a silver or aluminum knife and use forks of the 
same metals — steel will discolor it. Drop it in cold water as soon 
as pared, which will prevent its turning dark. 

To Soften Hard Fruits, like apples, pares, hard peaches or quinces, 
steam them; or cook in water till tender. 

Using Sugar. — Although fruits can be canned without sugar, many 
fruits are improved by the use of more or ]^ss of it; it improves 
those fruits when canned which retpiire it when fresh. Fruits which 
are to be used for flavoring ice creams and water ices, are best 
canned without sugar. If sugar is sprinkled on small fruits, and left 
on 1 or 2 hours, they retain their shape better. Any surplus juice 
from strawberries or other small fruits, can be made into jelly. 

Strain syrup which is not clear through fine flannel. 



520 CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 

Sealing. — When fruit is otherwise properly put up it often fails 
to keep because of improper sealing; covers should be screwed on 
reasonably tight at first, and tightened often till quite cold; the glass 
shrinks by cooling, and the covers should be tightened up on it as 
it shrinks. Be sure the rubbers used are close fitting and firm. 

If corks and wax are used in sealing, soak the corks in hot 
water; dry both cork and the edge of the bottle with a hot cloth 
before applying the wax, to insure its close adherence to the glass. 

Parafine i^aper tied or pasted over heated fruit will keep it sweet 
for quite a time in summer, and for weeks in cold weather. It is also 
recommended for covering jellies and jams, as it is impervious to air 
and is water proof. 

^ Keeping. — All goods canned in glass (and that is the safest and 
most reliable thing to use) should be kept in the dark, or the cans 
wrapped in paper, as the light will bleach and injure many fruits, 
especially tomatoes and strawberries. Canned fruit and vegetables 
should be kept in a cool, dry and dark place. 

The Flavor of Canned Fruit is improved if it is opened some time 
before it is needed for use, and allowed to aerate. 

Vegetables Intended for Canning should be as fresh as possible, as 
wilted vegetables will not can well. 

The Food Value of Canned Goods. — A careful analysis of the canned goods 
sold in the market has shown that they should be regarded mainly in the light of 
an expensive luxury. This is owing principally to the large amount of water they 
contain. In such articles as corn and string beans a test has shown that the con- 
tents of the can consists of 65% to 95^ of water, so that if one bought 100 
lbs. of these goods, he would buy 65 lbs. to 95 lbs. of water, and only 5 lbs. to 35 
lbs. of dry food material. For this reason 10 or 25 cents invested in flour, corn- 
meal or meat will get as much actual /ood material for the body as $1 or %2 will 
if invested in canned goods. Poor people, and those of moderate means should 
understand these things. When, however, the goods are canned at home the food 
is, of course, bought uncanned, and as cheaply as it could be obtained in any form. 
If properly put up canned goods are wholesome. 

A Word of Caution. — Sometimes goods which are put up in tin cans, and 
•which are all right when opened, are allowed to stand afterwards exposed to the 
air, and then the acid they contain will at once attack the lead in the tin, produc- 
ing poisonous compounds of lead. For this reason the contents of tin cans should 
be emptied out at once on being opened. So important is this that it should be 
understood by every one. 

Salicylic Acid. — This has been often used in canning fruits, and many agents 
have passed through the country selling recipes or preparations guaranteed to pre- 
serve fruit, the active ingredient of which was salicylic or some form of sulfurous 
acid. These should never be used. They may injure the health of the consumer, 
they impair the taste of the fruit, and their use is wholly unnecessary, as fruit is 
easily canned successfully \flthout them. Don't buy or use such preparations. 

CANNING BERRIES, ETC.— To can small fruit, or those which 
require little cooking, such as berries, peaches, etc., allow for every 
quart jar 1 teacup of sugar, more or less according to the acidity of 
the fruit. Dissolve the sugar in a very little water, put the fruit iu 



CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC 521 

it and heat to the boiling point; swathe each jar with a wet clotii, 
fill it with fruit, and seal it at once while hot. 

CANNING APPLES. — Select choice apples, pare, quarter, core, 
and let simmer merely, until tender; then drain them out, put into 
hot syrup, boil 2 or 3 minutes, and fill hot into jars. The juice and 
rind of 1 lemon to 4 lbs. apples imparts a pleasant flavor. Using 1 lb. 
of quinces or 1 good=sized pineapple to 4 lbs. apples also makes a 
pleasant combination. 

CANNING CURRANTS.— Use | lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit; let the 
fruit stand 2 or 8 hours covered with the sugar in the preserving 
kettle; then bring slowly to the boiling point, fill into jars and seal. 

Raspberries are nice ixit up with currant juice; allow 1 cup cur- 
rant juice and 1 cup sugar to each quart of raspberries, add the juice 
and sugar to the berries, bring to the boil and put in jars. Med 
rcispbcrries and red curranfs are also very nice canned together half 
and half. 

Dewberries and Elderberries can be put up like currants, but allow 
\ lb. sugar for 1 lb. fruit. 

The Dewberry belongs to the same species as the 
raspberry and blackberry Its composition is about tlie 
same, and it can be used like them for pies, pudding or 
jam. It is a very wholesome fruit. 



CANNING DAMSONS.— Allow \ lb. sugar 
to 1 lb. fruit; place alternate layers of sugar 
and plums in a preserving kettle, first pricking 
the plums to prevent their breaking; let it stand 
1 or 2 hours at the back of the stove, then 
heat gradually just to the boiling point, fill 
into jars and seal. 

Greengages or Plums of any kind, can be canned the same way, 
but allow I lb. of sugar to 1 lb. fruit. They can be allowed to stand 
in alternate layers of pliims and sugar over night if desired; the next 
day bring to a boil and can. 

GOOSEBERRIES. — These when ripe can be put up like currants, 
allowing ^ lb. sugar to 1 lb. gooseberries. Green gooseberries are 
best put up by the " Cold Process" (which see). 

CANNING PEARS — Steam them until tender in a steamer; 
then put them into jars and fill with boiling syrup, holding in solu- 
tion for each jar ^teaspoon of tartaric acid dissolved in a little water. 
This acid gives a piquant flavor to the otherwise sweet or insipid 
fruit, and is harmless. 




THE DEWBEEEY. 



S2^ CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 

RHUBARB. — The simplest and best method for this is by the 
"Cold Process" (which see). 

CANNING QUINCES. — Pare, quarter, core, and let them simmer 

merely, in water until tender; then drain them from the water, put 

them into the hot syrup (allow ^ lb. sugar and 1 cup water to 1 lb. 

quinces), let simmer 10 minutes (at 170°) and put into jars. The 

"* core, seeds and parings can be made into jelly. 

CANNING GRAPES.— Grapes may be canned whole without the 
usual process of scalding. Heat the jars very hot by steaming them 
over water brought gradually from tepid to boiling heat, or by 
placing them in the oven on several thicknesses of paper, and increas- 
ing the heat gradually. Wring a towel from hot water and swathe 
the cans; then fill them with the cold grapes, cover with boiling 
water, seal, and let stand 10 minutes; then take otf the covers, pour 
ofp the water, and cover with boiling syrup sweetened to taste, and 
seal. The skins will not break, and the fruit will have a very differ- 
ent flavor from seeded grapes. 

Blackberries, Huckleberries, Juneberries and Rasp= 
berries may be canned as directed for grapes. 

The Junebeeey. — This fruit, as its name indicates, 
appears in June. It lias a mild sub=acid flavor, approach- 
ing that of the huckleberry. It may be served with sugar 
and cream when eaten for dessert. 

STRAWBERRIES.— To preserve the color 
and flavor of strawberries requires care. They 
should go directly from the field or garden to the 
preserving kettle — even washing them injures their keeping qualities. 
Use ^ lb. sugar to 1 lb. fruit. Place alternate layers of sugar and 
berries in a ]3reserving kettle and let stand 1 hour; then heat slowly 
just to the boiling point; fill into jars and seal hot. 

CANNING APRICOTS.— Pack them whole into the jars, pack- 
ing them full, and as closely as possible without mashing or pressing 
the fruit; fill the jars with syruj) up to the shoulder, put on the 
cover loosely, and set them in a wash=boiler so that they do not 
touch the metal bottom, as directed in the introduction to this chap- 
ter, and fill water around them up to their necks; put on the cover, 
bring it to a boil, and keep it boiling 12 to 15 minutes, so that the 
fruit in the jar may be heated clear through; then remove from the 
stove, fill 1 jar at a time with hot syrup (have some surplus syruj) 
ready, and bring it to a boil at the same time as the fruit), screw on 




JUNEBEKKY. 




CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 523 

the cover, set it back in the water, and let all cool together. Prac- 
tically this is a very good method, as it kills all germs, without 
overcooking the fruit. 

Cherries; put up like apricots; boil 10 minutes. 

Nectarines; put up like apricots; boil 12 
minutes. 

Plums; put up same way; boil 10 minutes. 

Strawberries; put np same way; boil 8 min- 
utes. 

Peaches can be put up the same way, but they 
should be pared and halved; if 2 or 3 kernels are 
]mt in the center of each iar they will flavor all the 

. . . . NECTARINE. 

fruit in it; and this should be done, as they lack 
flavor without the kernels. 

Pineapples can be put up in the same w^ay, but they should be first 
pared and sliced, using a silver knife. Boil ^ hour. 

CANNED CORN. — Select young tender ears, cut the corn care- 
fully from the cob with a very sharp knife, and scrape the cob with 
the back of a knife to secure the milk. Dissolve 1 oz. of druggist's 
pure tartaric acid in a large teacup of warm water, and use |- of this 
for every 4 quarts of corn; to be exact, measure by tablespoons. 
Stir the required amount into the corn, add 2 teacups of hot water, 
and cook 15 minutes. Stir often and thoroughly while cooking; then 
can in the usual way. On opening for use, to each quart add a 
level teaspoon of soda (to neutralize the acid), cook 5 minutes 
and season to taste, being careful to add a little sugar. Should the 
corn turn yellow on adding the soda, add a very little more acid 
water (some may be kept corked); should there be a slight acid 
taste, put in a little more soda. If the acid is impure, or too much is 
used, crystals will form. 

Canned Corn No. 2. — Another method is to crowd corn cut from 
the cob into glass jars, seal moderately tight, set them into cold 
water, bring it to the boil, and then boil 3 hours; then loosen the cov- 
ers an instant, seal again, and^cook 1 hour; then remove from the fire. 
Tighten the covers occasionally as the cans cool. Corn put up this 
way keeps perfectly, but it is not as fresh as that put up with acid, 
and the j)rocess is more tedious. In serving thi& corn all that it 
needs is to get it thoroughly hot, and add a little milk or cream, 
butter and seasoning; further cooking toughens it. 

CANNED PEAS.— Shell them, and pack closely in cans; add to 
each quart 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon sugar dissolved in a little 



524 CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 

water; fill them full of water, put on the covers, and proceed as 
directed for apricots, but keei3 the water boiling 8 hours; fill hot 
water into the boiler, as that in it cooks away; when done, screw 
down the tops, and let them cool. 

ASPARAGUS. — Put it up as directed above 
for peas, but omit the sugar and salt. JP^ 

LIMA BEANS.— Treat as directed above for . .J^^^ 

peas, but omit the sugar, ^mnfy 

STRING BEANS.— Either green or cream / /| \lf 

beans can be put up as directed above for peas. // ' '\ 

String them, cut into inch lengths, jjut into cans, Ml'/,, i > 

add to each quart 1 teaspoon of salt, and continue ^^Jlm.i !|i \ \ 
as directed for peas. '"'-"^ ''••'" *— ^-^ 

String Beans No. 2. — String the beans and re- aspabagus. 

move the stem end. Boil them in water until 
about half tender, then to each 4 quarts of beans add \ pint of salt; 
boil 10 minutes, put in cans, cover well with the liquor in which 
they were boiled and seal. To use, drain, cook in a little water, and 
season to taste with cream or butter. A very little white sugar 
added to the seasoning is an improvement. 

String Beans No. 3. — Another method is to boil the beans in 
slightly salted water until they are tender, but not until they 
break; then drain quickly and can, covering them with weak boil- 
ing vinegar, or vinegar and water. To use, drain them, soak in 
warm water 15 minutes, heat 5 minutes, and season with butter and 
a little milk, thickened slightly with corn=starch. 

CANNING CABBAGE. — Slice cabbage when it comes from the 
pits in the spring, cook it in very little water, season with salt, and 
can boiling hot. 

CANNING CARROTS.— Boil carrots till tender, peel and slice, 
reheat them in a steamer and can, covering them with weak boiling 
vinegar, or vinegar and water. Use them as a garnish, or season 
with cream for a salad. 

CANNED BEETS.— Chop beets while tender, season with sweet- 
ened vinegar, and can hot. They make delicious salad. 

PUMPKIN — Scrape out the seeds after, cutting it up, and either 
stew or bake it until tender, without paring, as the sweetest part lies 
next the rind; when baked, remove the rind, mash with the potato 
masher, -pxxi it in jars and seal while hot. Add no seasoning until 
opened for use. 



CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 525 

CANNED SUCCOTASH — Put lima beans in salted water, and 
cook nearly enough for table use; take green corn on the cob, and 
boil until when a grain is cut no milk flows, then cut it from the cob, 
and mix with the lima beans, using 1 measure of beans to 2 measures 
of corn; cover them with boiling water, bring to a boil, and fill them 
into glass jars. String beans can be used instead of lima beans, but 
cut them into 1 inch lengths. To use this succotash, drain off the 
liquor and add butter, milk and flour the same as for fresh succotash. 

CANNED TOMATOES ( Tr//o/c).— Select good small ones, re- 
jecting all that are soft or spotted; put .them whole into the cans 
without peeling, fill with cold water, and proceed as directed for 
peas, but omit the salt and sugar, and boil only | hour. 

Canned Tomatoes No. 2. — Scald and skin them; bring them gradu- 
ally to a boil in the preserving kettle, and let them simmer merely ^ 
hour (at 170°); put into the cans while hot, and seal. 

Canned Tomatoes No. 3. — Select the tomatoes before they are ripe. 
As soon as they are gathered from the vines remove the skins, cut 
them in small pieces and drain; boil them 20 minutes, stirring often, 
and adding salt freely while boiling. Can in the usual way. One 
can determine by tasting just how much salt can be used. They are 
less likely to sour when salt is used. 

Canned Tomatoes are nice stewed and baked in alternate layers 
with boiled rice or boiled macaroni, seasoning the layers with butter, 
pepper and salt. 

CANNED TOMATOES WITH CORN Boil the corn on the 

cob the same as for table use, and cut it off while hot; have tomatoes 
skinned and rubbed to a smooth pulp; put 2 parts tomatoes to 1 part 
corn, salt as for the talkie, bring to a hard boil, and can quickly. 

CANNED BEANS WITH ACID.— Cook the beans until done; 
then add for each x)int of beans 1 tablespoon of a solution made by 
dissolving 1^ oz. tartaric acid in 1 cup water; can at once while hot. 
To use, to each quart of beans add ^ teaspoon of soda to neutralize 
the acid, and let stand a little while before cooking. Then season 
and serve. If there is a slightly acid taste use a little more soda; ii 
too much soda is used add a trifle more acid. 

Peas can be put up the same way. 

FRUIT JUICES. — Select the best fruit, squeeze out the juice, 
strain it through fine muslin (4 thicknesses) or through flannel 
cloth, add sugar in the proportion of | lb. sugar to 1 quart of juice, 
and bring to a boil; use an earthen or porcelaindined kettle, remove 
all scum which rises, and put while hot into small bottles, and 
keep closely corked; or it can be kept in Mason jars. 



526 



CANNING FKUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 



When canning fruit the juice remaining can be bottled in the 
same manner. For pudding sauces, etc., these can be used in place 
of wines and intoxicating liquors, as we have elsewhere stated in 
speaking of intoxicating liquors; they can also be used for water ices 
and summer beverages. 

Fruit juices can also be j)ut up without the use of sugar; strain 
the juice, and fill it into the bottles to the bottom of the neck only; 
then cork securely, wire the corks down, and set the bottles into 
water up to the neck; let it boil | hour, then take from the stove, let 
them stand in the water till cold, and seal the corks. Juices put up 
this way can be used like fresh juices, but when exposed to the air 
they spoil quickly, so that all must be used at once when a bottle is 
opened. Small bottles are therefore best. 

CANNING WITHOUT SYRUP. 

Fruit can be put up much as directed for apricots, but without 
using any syrup. The fruit should not be very ripe when picked; 
fill wide mouthed bottles as full as they will hold, cork and seal each 
one tightly, surround it with water and boil as there directed; then 
remove from the stove and let them cool standing in the water, tight- 
ening the covers occasionally. It will be found to nearly equal fresh 
fruit when opened, and can be used like it. Apricots, cherries, 
gooseberries, sliced pineapple, pliuns, and other fruit can be put up 
thus. 

CANNING BY THE COLD PROCESS. 

Many fruits may be canned by what is termed the " Cold Pro- 
cess." It is best to boil the water used for this purpose, to kill all 
germs in it; then let it get cold before using it. 

Green Currants and Green Gooseberries. — 
To can them in this manner fill jars with the 
green fruit, shaking it well together;//// with 
water wdiich has been boiled and allowed to 
get perfectly cold; seal, wrap each jar in pa- 
per, and set in a cool x^lace. 

The Cubkant is supposed to be a native of Nortli- 
erii Europe, and did not attract much attention till 
within the last 100 years. It is not mentioned by the 
ancient Greek and Roman writers. The red, white and 
black, all belong to the same species as the goose- 
berry, and their composition is nearly the same. It is white cukisant, 
a wholesome and useful fruit. Its acid is princij^ally 
citric and malic. 

Grapes (Cold Process) — Remove them from the large clusters in 
smaller clusters of 2 or 3, being very careful indeed that the stem of 




CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 527 

each grape is in no wise loosened from the fruit; fill the jars with 
these clusters, or wath the single grapes if j)referred, with the stems 
left entire or partly clipi^ed; when full (do not shake, as the success 
dejjends upon the stem adhering to the fruit) immerse the jar in a 
pail of water which has been boiled and become cold; when the jar is 
quite full of water screw on the top while under water. 

Cherries (Cold Process). —The stems of cherries may l)o clii)ped 
and the fruit canned in the same manner as grapes. It is more diffi- 
cult to prepare cherries, as they loosen so easily from the stem. 

Canned Peaches (Cold Process). — Pare and halve the fruit, fill a jar 
with, it, 2)acki)ig c/ose///, and fill the jar with water as for currants; 
cover and let stand 6 or 8 hours for the water to work its way into all 
openings; then fill in water to take the place of that which has 
worked in, and seal. Thus put up, all the freshness and flavor of the 
fruit is retained. Instead of the water cold syrup can be used, but 
the natural flavor is best retained without any sweetening. 

Canned Rhubarb (Cold Process) — Take fresh green stalks, peel and 
slice as if for pies; then take fruit jars and pack this in u^) to the 
necks, and then fill the jars with cold water; now seal up air tight 
and it will keep any number of months. To see if the jars are tight 
set them bottom up for a little while and see if any water escapes; if 
not, they are all right. To use it, i^onr off' the water and use Ijke 
fresh pieplant; but to sweeten it, not over -| the sugar ordinarily used 
will be needed, as the water will extract some of the acid. The 
method is simple, and it will be equal to fresh pieplant when u.sed. 

Strawberries Canned Cold. — To each lb. of fruit allow 1 lb. sugar; 
dissolve the sugar in the least possible quantity of water, put in the 
strawberries and let both boil up together once 
thoroughly; then put the fruit and syrup in deep 
earthen pie plates, and let stand in the sun 21 
hours covered with mosquito netting; or dry it in 
a cool oven; then can cold. Delicious. 

Currants, Raspberries, Huckleberries and other small 
fruit may be canned the same way. 

The Hucklebekky is native to tlie northern parts of 
the world. It has a spicy, rather sweetish taste and is 
very wholesome. It contains about 71% water, o.7% sugar 
and 1.8^ free acid. It belongs to the same species as the Isil- 
berry and blueberry. 




HUOKLKBEKBY. 



CANNING MEAT. 

Do not leave meat designed for canning exposed to the air; as 
soon as it is thoroughly cold, after killing, prepare it by selecting 



628 CANNING FKUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 

pieces free from blood. Remove all bone, gristle and inferior pieces, 
and cut it into suitable pieces for the table, having them rather thin 
than otherwise. On the bottom of a Mason's self sealing can put a 
little salt, pejiper, and a dash of pulverized, sifted saltpetre; then put 
in a layer of meat, and on that sprinkle more of the same seasoning, 
and so on alternately, filling the can to within an inch of the top, 
j)ressing the layers down firmly while packing that there may be no 
air spaces. On the top layer use the seasoning more freely. Fill 
the can with lard, heated sufficiently to run smoothly. Cover with a 
paper bag, and keep in a cool, dark place. It will keej) from 
January to July. 

Canned Meat No. 2. — Take fresh beef and boil it until all the 
bones will come out; then take the meat out, remove the bones and 
cut in short lengths, returning it to the liquor; season to taste with 
salt, pepper, a little mace, cloves and chopped onions, if liked. Take 
the meat from the liquor with a wire dipper, fill it into the cans, 
pour on the boiling liquor, and seal tight. Keex3 in a dark, cool 
place. 

CANNED CORN BEEF. — Before the brine sours or changes in 
the least, boil the meat till tender; then remove the bone, gristle, and 
white fiber, return to the boiling liquor, and when hot, can it, press- 
ing it couqxicUy ; cover it well with the boiling hot liquor and seal. 
Kee^D the cans in paper bags in a cool cellar. Examine on the 
approach of warm weather, and if on shaking the cans any bubbles 
arise, open such cans and use the meat at once. 

Pickled Tongue is also very nice put up in this way. 

Mince and Sausage Meat must be put into cans while at boiling 
heat, if thus preserved. 

Peeseeving Meats. — All the resources of science have been called into play to 
devise means to preserve meat so that the surplus of one region can be trans- 
ported unimpaired to supply the needs of another region less bountifully supplied. 
The 4 most important methods which have been devised are by drying, by cold, by 
heating and excluding the air, and by the use of antiseptics. They are all based 
on killing or preventing the development of the germs (bacteria) which cause 
putrefaction. Drying preserves meat and vegetables because the low forms of life, 
as well as the higher, cannot develop without a certain amount of moisture, but the 
flavor and other qualities of meat are not improved by drying. Freezing preserves 
the meat because cold checks the growth of all micro=organisras. In canning, the 
usual method is to heat the article enough to kill all the germs, and then seal it up so 
tightly that no more can enter. Antisejtdcs, like salt, sugar, etc., act by preventing 
the development of the micro=organisms which cause decay. The action of salt is 
to draw the juices and many of the nutritive elements out of the meat, and when 
they are once drawn out they can never be restored again, so that salted meat is 
never as nutritious as fresh meat. The salt also hardens the fiber of the meat and 
makes it less digestible. Salt has a whitening effect on the meat also, and to 



CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 529 

counteract that, saltpetre is often added, but the latter tends to make the meat 
hard, dry and indigestible, and therefore a little cochineal is sometimes used for 
coloring instead. 

34 



PICKLES, CATSUPS, SOYS, ETC. 

\ I / HE custom of ijickling seems to have been practiced since 
W I very early times, the ancient Greeks and Romans highly 
<Si I v£) esteeming their pickles made from herbs, roots and vegeta- 
bles preserved by vinegar. 

All vegetables and fruit used for pickles should be sound, and 
not over-ripe. Fruits can be pickled as well as vegetables. 

The Vinegar. — Use only i:)ure vinegar in making pickles, catsups 
and sauces. Cider vinegar is usually considered about the best for 
this x^urpose. As vinegar is weakened by boiling, it should be merely 
brought to the scalding point and then poured on the pickles; if not 
scalded but put on raw, however, it will not keep well. Have the 
vinegar strong or the pickles will seem "insipid" If the strength 
of the vinegar is lost, replace it with some which is strong, and boil- 
ing hot when poured on. Adding a little horseradish will help to 
keep up the life of the vinegar, but use it sparingly; 1 or 2 clusters 
of green grapes serve the same purpose. To heat vinegar, a good way 
is to put it in a stone jar in a saucepan, with hot water around it, and 
as soon as it reaches the boiling point remove from the fire, as 
boiling reduces both its strengh and flavor. 

Vinegar can be kept from molding by putting into each jar some 
horseradish, mustard seed or nasturtiums, but use only a little. 

Using Alum and Parboiling. — If articles to be pickled are parboiled or 
scalded they will absorb the vinegar more readily, but they will not 
be so crisp. Cucund)ers and gherkins are made crisp and green by 
dissolving a small lump of alum in the vinegar the first time it is 
scalded, but it is injurious to the health if too much is used. 

Coloring Pickles. — A green color can easily be obtained, if desired, 
by soaking cabbage or vine leaves or the leaves of parsley or spinach 
in the vinegar, and the color thus obtained is harmless. Or to have 
cucumbers green put them into cold vinegar and heat them slowly 
over a moderate fire until they become green. 

A Caution. — Bright green pickles have been popular, merely because of their 
looks. To gratify this taste pickles have been boiled in copper kettles with vine- 
gar and a little alum. The acetic acid of the vinegar acts on the copper and forms 
acetate of copper, which is commonly and well known as ve)-diijris. This pene- 
trates the pickles and colors them green, but it should be understood that this 
acetate of cojjper (verdigris) is really a most active poison, and that pickles thus 
prepared are poisonous and unhealthy. 

530 



SOUR PICKLES 531 

Spices. — Use spices judiciously so that all combine into a i^leasant 
flavor without having one flavor predominate over all the others, and 
do not flavor so strongly as to entirely disguise the original flavor of 
the article pickled. 

Brine. — The rule for the brine used for pickles is " strong 
enough to float an egg." The proportion is about 1 quart of water 
to 1 cup salt. 

The Kettle, etc. — Use porcelain lined or granite kettles for putting 
up pickles. The acid in vinegar will act on the lead in tinned ves- 
sels, and produce the poisonous acetate of lead, and in brass or cop- 
per vessels it produces the poisonous acetate of copper {veirligris). 
As the mild acids, however, do not affect aluminum, utensils made 
of that metal are excellent to use for this puri)ose. 

Use wooden spoons instead of metal spoons or forks. If, how- 
ever, any metal sj)oons or forks are used have them either of alumi- 
num or silver. 

Keeping Picltles. — Pickles will become soft and s^wil if exposed to 
the air, so that they should always be kept covered with vinegar; 
there should be 2 or 3 inches of vinegar over them; keep the 
jar tightly closed. If pickles show signs at any time of becoming 
moldy or soft, i)our off the vinegar, scald it, skim, add to each gal- 
lon of vinegar 1 handful of sugar, and pour it back on again, boil- 
ing hot. The sugar will form fresh vinegar and so strengthen the 
old. If pickles are put in jars and sealed while hot, they keep bet- 
ter than in any other way. 

Pickles should be kept in a dry, cool place, but they will be 
spoiled if they freeze. They are best kept in stone or glass; never 
use glazed jars, as the salt and vinegar will dissolve out the little lead 
which is used in glazing, and form the poisonous acetate of lead. No 
vessel which has held grease should be used for keeping pickles. 

Picliles are an agreeable addition to our food, but they should be 
eaten sparingly, as they are not easily digested. 



SOUR PICKLES. 

PICKLED BEETS.— (1) Wa.sh them, and be careful not to 
prick the outside skin or they will lose their beautiful color; put 
them into boiling water, simmer gently until ^ done (about 1^ 
hours), take out and cool; then peel, and cut into slices -| inch 
thick. Take vinegar enough to cover, add 2 oz. allspice, and 2 oz. 
whole pepper to each gallon, and boil 5 minutes; when cold, pour it 



532 



SOUR PICKLES 




AKTICHOKE. 



on the beets, and cover closely. They can be used in a week. (2) 
Another way is to take 4 or 5 medium sized beets, boil them soft, 
put in cold water, rub off the skins, wipe dry, cut in pieces, and chox3 
finely in the chopping bowl; add, while choi^ping, an even teaspoon 
of salt and sugar, a saltspoon each of mustard and pepper; pack in- 
to a salad dish or bowl; cover with cold vinegar, and let it stand until 
the next clay before serving. 

Carrots may be pickled in the same manner. Few people know 
how good carrots are when pickled. 

ARTICHOKES.— Take a strong brine 
and boil the artichokes in it 2 or 3 minutes; 
then drain them on a sieve, and put in jars 
when cold. Boil some nutmeg, mace and 
ginger in enough vinegar to cover; pour 
it on hot and seal the jars. 

BEANS — String the beans and boil 
until tender, putting a little salt in the 
water; then drain in a colander, and 
when cold put in jars; add 1 tablespoon 
of horseradish, sprinkle with cayenne, pep- 
per lightly, and cover with good cider vinegar. 

PICKLED CABBAGE. — Slice the cabbage fine, and cover with 
boiling water; drain off the water when cold. Season with red and 
black pepper in equal parts, salt, cinnamon and cloves, and grated 
horseradish. Cover with strong vinegar. 

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER.— Break the heads into small pieces, 
and boil in salt and water 10 or 15 minutes; then drain carefully, and 
place in jars when cold; tie white mustard, cloves, allspice and pep- 
per in a bag, put it in vinegar and scald; take the vinegar from the 
stove, take out the bag, and to each quart add ^ cup sugar, and 1 
tablespoon of mustard; pour it over the cauliflower, and cover tightly. 

CELERY PICKLES.— Take | gallon of chopped celery, the same 
of chopped white cabbage, 4 oz. white mustard seed, ^ oz. ginger 
root, 2 tablespoons salt, ^ oz. turmeric, | cup sugar, -| gallon cider 
vinegar; let all simmer gently until celery and cabbage are tender; 
then put in jars. 

CHERRY PICKLES. — Take large, ripe cherries, leave the stems 
on, and put them whole into cans, filling them only % full; take 
good cider vinegar, fill the cans with it cold, and seal without heat- 
ing. 



SOUR PICKLES 583 

PICKLED CORN — Select good corn and boil it on the cob; 
When done let it cool, and cut it from the cob; then pack it in a 
jar in alternate layers of salt and corn, having salt at the bottom and 
on top; then spread on a cloth, lay on a board, and weight it down. 
For use, soak it till fresh, in water, and cook or heat it. Many like 
it better this way than when canned. • 

String Beans and Lima Beans can also be packed in salt; after being 
in the salt 2 days they can be used at any time, and can be cooked 
like green vegetables, but while boiling, change the water 1 or 2 
times. They will be like fresh vegetables. 

CUCUMBER PICKLES.— Cut cucumbers from the vine instead 
of twisting or pulling them off, as that injures them. Fill a jar with 
cucumbers, and pour boiling water over them, with a little salt; let 
stand 6 hours or over night, and then put them into cold vinegar. 
To 1 gallon of vinegar add 1 cup salt and 1 tablespoon pulverized 
alum, and scald the pickles in this mixture; pour it off, and pour on 
new vinegar, with spice, red peppers, cinnamon, root ginger and 
cloves. 

Cucumber Pickles No. 2.— Take -J bushel cucumbers, and soak 24 
to 36 hours in brine strong enough to float an egg; then take them 
out, wash, and cover them with vinegar and water (half and half) 
adding alum the size of a large walnut; let soak 2 days. Then take 
out, put in jars, and put 1 green pepi^er in each large jar. Scald 2 
gallons vinegar with 3 lbs. browji sugar, 1 oz. each stick cinnamon, 
whole cloves, and whole allspice, and pour it over the pickles. They 
can be used next da5% and are fine. 

Cucumber Pickles No. 3. — Pick when 2 or 3 inches long, no larger. 
Wash, dry, and put a layer in the bottom of a glass fruit jar; mix 1 
teaspoon each of whole cloves, whole pepper corns, allsiDice, and 2 
teaspoons of stick cinnamon broken fine; sprinkle the cucumbers in 
the jar with this mixture, add more cucumbers, then more spice, and 
so alternately until the jar is full. This amount of spice is for 1 
quart can. Fill the can with strong vinegar, cold, screw on the 
cover, and in about 4 or 5 weeks they will be ready for use. By this 
method one can pick cucumbers each day, using a.^ many cans as 
they will fill; it is sure and easy, as there is no trouble salting, boil- 
ing, etc. 

Cucumber Pickles No. 4. — Take 2 parts soft water, and 1 part 
New Orleans molasses or sorghum; put it in a jar or cask, and set it 
in the sun with a thin cloth and board covering it; the board should 
be removed during the day, but the cloth left on to keep out insects. 
This must be prepared long enough to get sour (say 4 weeks) before 



534 



SOUR PICKLES 



putting in cucumbers. Set it in a cool place as soon as you begin to 
put in cucumbers; pick and put some in each day, and every time 
you put in cucumbers add a little molasses to keep up the strength 
of tli(^ vinegar. Lastly add 5 or 6 lbs. of brown sugar, a few horse- 
radish roots and a small piece of alum. Some use the same vinegar 
every year; strain it, and add molasses as the cucumbers are put in. 
It saves the trouble of making fresh every year. 

SALTING CUCUMBERS.— Wash them, and put first a layer of 
salt, then a layer of cucumbers, and so on alternately until the jar is 
full, having salt on top and keeping all down with a weight. They 
will keep this way 2 or 3 years. For use, freshen them by soaking 
in water for 2 or 3 days, changing the water daily. Scald vinegar, to 
which is added spices, and a little sugar if desired, and ]pour this hot 
over the cucumbers. A cloth can be laid over salted cucumbers, 
under the weight, and the -scum that arises may be removed by 
taking off the cloth and rinsing it. Horseradish tops or cabbage 
leaves placed under the cloth will prevent molding. 

LARGE CUCUMBER PICKLES— Very nice pickles may be 
made with the large cucumbers that would be considered unfit for 
use by some people. Peel them, iind take out the seeds and soft 
part; cut them the long way of the cucund)er, cover them with cold 
vinegar, and let them stand one day and night; drain them well and 
put on fresh vinegar, with 2 lbs. sugar; put 1 oz. cassia buds in a 
cpiart of vinegar and add to the pickles. Boil for 20 minutes then 
put them away in jars, well covered. 

PICKLED GHERKINS.— Put them in 
strong brine until they are yellow; then remove 
them, and pour on hot, spiced vinegar, and keep 
them in a warm place until they turn green; take 
them out, and cover with good vinegar, boiling 
hot and sjiiced to taste. 

Gherkins are young cucumbers, gathered before they 
are mature, and they are used for nothing but pickling; as 
pickles, however, tliey are generally liked. They should 
not be gathered too young, or their flavor will not be suf- 
ficiently developed. 

PICKLED EGGS. Boil eggs hard, take off 
the shells, and put them in jars; take vinegar 
enough to cover, season it well with cloves, all- 
spice and whole peppers, and a little ginger tied in a muslin bag; 
bring it to a boil, and pour it hot on the eggs; close the jars tightly 
when cold. They will be ready for use in a fortnight. 




GHERKINS. 



SOUK PICKLES 535 

SPICED CUCUMBER PICKLES.— Soak 2 quarts of salted 
pickles in cold water until quite fresh — it may take 2 days; be sure 
and chani^e the water 2 or 3 times a day; when fresh, wipe dry and 
pack closely in jars. Take 1 quart vinegar, 1^- cujis brown sugar, 1 
tablespoon cinnamon, and 1 teaspoon cloves tied in a bag; bring to a 
boil, and turn it over the pickles while hot. 

JERSEY PICKLES. — Take one peck of ripe tomatoes, 3 pep- 
pers, 3 tablespoons salt, 1 heaping teaspoon of cloves, 3 heaping tea- 
spoons cinnamon, 4 cups sugar, 2 cups vinegar; boil from 1^- to 2 
hours. 

PICKLED LEMONS.- (]) Select 12 small lemons wiili thick 
skins; cut into them lieai'ly to the center, but not (piit(i enough so 
that they fall apart; fill the openings with, salt, and pack them in an 
eartlu'U dish on end; set away, and in al)out 4 days there will be 
brine enough to partly cover them; tui'ii thrm over, repeating each 
day for 4 days, so that all parts may soak in the brine; then drain 
them out and put in glass jars. Add enough cider vinegar to cover 
the fruit, a little crushed ginger root and a Jamaica pepper if de- 
sired, or other spice; l)ring it slowly to a boil, skim, and pour it on 
the fruit when cold. (2) Another way is to wash 2 doz. lemons, cut 
across or through the ends of each about 2 inches and pack with the 
cut end down in a stone jar; adtl 4 quarts vinegar, ^ 11). mustardseed, 
^ lb. salt, i oz. each of cayenne pepper, cloves, and nutmeg, and 1 
small onion; cover the jai', and set it in a kettle of boiling water and 
boil all day. They should be tender enough to pierce with a fork 
easily. 

PICKLED LIMES.- (1) Take 12 limes, make incisions into the 
rinds into which rub salt, put them on end in an earthen disli, and 
set in a warm place 4 or 5 days, or until soft, turning them over 1 or 
2 times, and put them in glass jars, pouring in the brine. Take 
enough vinegar U) cover them, add i^ oz. whole jjepper, and 2 (jz. each 
of Inniised ginger and mustardseed, bring to a 
boil, and pour on them while liot. When cold, seal 
the jars. (2) Pick limes when full grown, sound 
and fresh, and put them at once into brine about 
as strong as sea= water; in 2 or 3 days it will become 
bitter; pour it ofF, cover with fresh brine, and re- 
peat about 3 times, or until the bitterness is ex- 
tracted. Cover with fresh brine, and they will 
keep indefinitely and can be shipped, being always the lime. 

saleable barreled thus. 




586 SOUR PICKLES 

The lime is a native of India and China. In the West Indies it is grown for 
hedges. The fruit is sin\ilar to the lemon, but smaller. It has a thin, smooth 
rind and a very acid juice which some prefer to that of the lemon. 

PICKLED MARTYNIAS.^Choose the small, tender martynias; 
wash and brush them carefully; soak them in a strong brine for 5 
days, then soak them in fresh water until the salty taste is nearly 
gone; next wipe them dry; put them in a jar, and pour over them 
well spiced hot vinegar, flavored with onions if liked. 

MANGO PICKLES — Pick green cantelope melons when half 
grown (about the size of a pint bowl); cut out 1 lobe, carefully 
scrape out all the seeds, return the lobe and tie it in place; put 15 of 
the melons in a brine strong enough to float an egg, and leave 6 
weeks, keeping them well under; then take out, soak in fresh water 
24 hours, then remove, wipe dry, and fill with the following stuffing: 
Take ^ lb. scraped horseradish, ^ lb. race ginger, scalded, scraped 
and chojjped fine, 2 nutmegs, ^ oz. mace, 1 oz. whole black peppers; 
1 small box good mustard, 1 oz. turmeric, 12 large onions minced very 
fine. Pound the mace, nutmegs and black j)epper together, and mix 
all the ingredients together with enough salad oil to make it into a 
paste. Stuff each melon perfectly full; return and tie the lobe in 
place with thread, and put each mango when stuffed into a jar large 
enough to hold them all. Put enough strong cider vinegar to fill the 
jar into a preserving kettle; crack and add ^ oz. each of cloves, 
ground ginger, mace and allsx^ice, let boil, and pour hot over the 
mangoes. KeejD the jar closely covered. Made in the fall the pick- 
les will be fit to eat Christmas, but the following Christmas they will 
be matchless, their perfection increasing with age. This pickle is 
the most elegant made, and is suitable for any dinner that can be 
served. 

MIXED PICKLES.— Take 2 heads of cauliflower, 2 heads cab- 
bage, 50 small cucumbers, 8 small carrots, 2 quarts string beans, 12 
sticks of celery, 6 red peppers (without the seeds) and 8 green pep- 
pers; chop these vegetables separately, and let them soak over night 
in salt and water; in the morning wash and drain them. Take 2 
grated nutmegs, 8 teaspoons each of mace and cinnamon, tie in a 
muslin bag, and put into vinegar enough to cover the vegetables; 
scald it, pour it over the vegetables hot, put in jars and cover closely. 

GREEN PEPPER MANGOES.— Take green peppers which are 
sound and firm and add as many red ones for appearance; cut off the 
tojD, extract the seeds, put into a strong brine, and let soak 24 hours; 
then drain them, wipe, and fill with a stuffing made of ground cloves, 



SOUR PICKLES 



537 



and 




mustard seed, green tomatoes chopped, cabbage chopped, and salt, 
mixed all together; sew on the tops, and cover them with strong, hot 
vinegar containing 1 cup brown sugar; repeat for 4 mornings, 
seal up. 

The Capsicum family (to which peppers belong) is na- 
tive to Asia and America. Cayenne i^epper is made troni the 
dried pods and seeds of various species of capsicum. As a 
condiment it is wholesome and aids digestion. Although 
less used than black pepper it is more wholesome. Chillies 
is a Mexican name signifying pods. 

PEACH MANGOES.— Take large, fine, free- 
stone peaches; with a silver knife cut a hole in the 
side just large enough to remove the stone, take it 
out, put back the piece, tie it in, and put the 
peaches into a strong brine; leave 3(3 hours, drain capsicum. 

out, and let them lie 20 minutes in cold water; 
wipe carefully, and fill the inside with grated horseradish to which is 
added a little celery seed and crushed ginger root, and moistened 
with vinegar. Replace the piece forming the opening, sew or tie it 
in place with thread; stand them closely in glass jars, and cover them 
with boiling hot vinegar, containing 1 cup sugar to each quart of 
vinegar; tie up when cold. They can be used in 8 days. 

PICKLED MUSHROOMS.— Clean carefully, and boil a few min- 
utes in salt and water; drain, and dry them between linen cloths; 
put into jars, and cover with vinegar, spiced to taste. 

MUSTARD PICKLES.— Chop fine, equal quantities of cauli- 
flower, white onions, celery, green peppers and green tomatoes; pour 
on a scalding hot brine, let stand over night, and drain. Take f gal- 
lon cider vinegar, 1 cup sugar, and 2 tablespoons of butter; bring to 
a boil, and add 1 cup flour, 6 tablespoons ground mustard, \ oz. tur- 
meric powder wet in cold vinegar; pour it all, scalding hot, over the 
pickles. 

PICKLED NASTURTIUMS.— Leave about 1 inch of stem on 
when they are picked; let them soak in strong 
brine for 3 days; drain, and soak them in cold 
water 1 day; drain, put in jars, and pour on 
boiling vinegar to cover; they need no si^ices. 
They can be used in a month, and will serve in- 
stead of capers if desired. 

The Nastubtium is a native of the east. It belongs 
to the same family as the cresses. The leaves are some- 
times added to salads. The flowers can be steeped in vin- 
egar, thus forming nasturtium vinegar. 




538 SOUR PICKLES 

PICKLED ONIONS.— (1) Take nice onions, peel them, put in- 
to boiling water, and let theift stew until quite clear; then remove 
them quickly, put them between cloths to dry, and then put them in 
glass jars. Take good vinegar, put in ginger and whole peppers, 
bring to a boil, and when cold pour over the onions, and tie up 
closely. (2) Select button onions, cover with scalding hot brine, 
and leave 36 hours; drain, put in jars, and cover with vinegar, poured 
on hot, and spiced as desired. 

PICKLED OYSTERS.— Take 1 quart oyster liquor, 7 table- 
spoons good vinegar, 1 teaspoon each of allspice and white i^epper, 1 
tablespoon of salt and 2 blades of mace; into this put 1 quart of oys- 
ters, and simmer 5 minutes; take them out, boil the liquor, skim it, 
and 230ur it over the oysters; can them while hot if you wish to keep 
them some time. 

PICKLED PARSLEY — Prepare a brine and thoroughly wash 
selected parsley in it; drain, shake dry, put into glass jars, cover with 
cold vinegar, containing 1 tablespoon of chopped horseradish to the 
quart, and tie up. It can be used for garnishing. 

PICKLED PEPPERS.— Take large green ones, and extract the 
seeds through a slit cut in the side, but 
leaving them whole; then put them in a 
strong brine for 2 days, changing it once; 
then put them in cold water for 1 day; 
drain, and pour on boiling hot, a solution 
of ^ vinegar and |- water; when cold, drain 
them, put into jars, and cover with strong 
cider vinegar, boiling hot. Tie up when 
cold. They are sometimes filled, before 
being put into the jars, with a stuffing 
made of cabbage head, chopped fine, sea- 
soned with salt and white mustard^seed mixed in well; then sew up, 
put in jars, and cover with cold spiced vinegar. 

PICCALILLI. — Slice 1 package of- green tomatoes, add 2 cups 
salt, cover with water and let stand 24 hours, then put into fresh 
water; squeeze out of this and add 12 green peppers, 6 onions, 1 head 
of cabbage, chop all very fine, cover with vinegar and scald; then 
drain off, add 2 cui^s of molasses, 1 tables^TOon cloves, allspice, and 2 
oz. white mustard=seed, and cover with cold vinegar. 

GREEN TOMATO PICKLES.— Slice 1 peck of green tomatoes 
and let stand over night with a little salt si)rinkled between them; in 




SOUR PICKLES 539 

the morning put them into weak vinegar and scald; remove the toma- 
toes and when cold put in jars. Take strong cider vinegar to cover, 
add 1 cup sugar, 4 green peppers, mustard and spice to taste, bring 
it to a boil, and pour over the tomatoes. 

RIPE TOMATO PICKLES.— Use the small yellow plum toma- 
toes; prick them with a coarse needle, pack in jars, and cover with 
hot cider vinegar, spiced or not as preferred. Cover close and keep 
in a cool place. 

PICKLED TURNIPS.— Wash them, but do not break the skin 
or the juice will escape; boil them, and when done, pare, cut in slices 
^ inch thick, and pour on spiced vinegar boiling hot. They are best 
eaten when new. 

PICKLED WALNUTS OR BUTTERNUTS.— Gather them when 
young enough to be pierced readily with a pin; put them in strong 
brine, and leave them 7 days, changing it every other day; then take 
them out, wipe dry, and pierce them with a large needle in a number 
of places; cover them for 8 hours, or over night, with cold water; 
then drain, and put in jars. Take enough cider vinegar to cover, and 
to each gallon allow 12 blades mace, 1 cup sugar, 36 black pepper- 
corns, 36 cloves, and 1 tablespoon allspice; boil 5 minutes and pour 
hot on the nuts; repeat twice, 3 days apart, and tie up. 

ORNAMENTAL PICKLE.— Take red beets, cook until tender, 
then peel and cut into dice, put in jars and cover with vinegar si3iced 
to taste. Boil eggs 25 mintues, then drop into cold water; when cold, 
shell and put in with the pickles. 

FRENCH PICKLES — Take 1 peck of green tomatoes, 1 med- 
ium^sized cabbage, 6 large onions, 6 large peppers; chop all very fine, 
but let the tomatoes drain through a colander before adding the rest. 
Add 1 cup white mustard^seed, 2 lbs. brown sugar, 1 gallon strong 
vinegar, 2 tablesjooons cinnamon, 1 tablesi^oon each of allspice, cloves 
and black pepper and ^ cup salt; cook | hour and put into a jar. 

RUSSIA PICKLES. — Take 2 gallons cabbage coarsely chopped, 
12 onions, 4 quarts green tomatoes chopped together, 6 green pep-- 
pers, 1 oz. pepper berry, 1 oz. celery seed, ^ lb. white mustardseed, 
1^ lbs. sugar, ff gill salt, 4 quarts vinegar; boil all together until the 
cabbage and tomatoes are tender; then add ^ oz. turmeric. . Can 
while hot. 

ClilLI SAUCE — Take 18 large tomatoes (not too ripe), 1 green 
pepper, 3 onions; chop fine and add 2 tablespoons of salt, ^ cup 



540 SWEET PICKLEB 

sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 1 teasi^oon each of cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon 
and allspice; boil 2 hours and put in cans. 

CHOW CHOW. — Take 2 large heads of cauliflower, 2 quarts 
green pepi)ers, 3 (quarts green cucumbers, 8 quarts green tomatoes, 2 
quarts small onions; slice about |- inch thick, and sprinkle with salt 
in alternate layers of tomatoes, onions and cucumbers; boil the cauli- 
flowers about 5 minutes; let them stand over night, then strain all 
carefully and" free from water. Then place in jars and make a sea- 
soning as follows: Take 1 lb. mustard, ^ lb. mustard^seed, ^ lb. whole 
allspice, | lb. whole black pepper, 2 cups brine, 1 gallon vinegar, 1 
tablespoon curry powder; boil strongly 15 minutes, and pour over 
the vegetables. If too thick, add vinegar. Mix the mustard with 
vinegar, and tie the spices all together in a muslin bag; they should 
all boil wuth the vinegar. 

Chow Chow No. 2. — Take equal amounts of green tomatoes and 
cabbage, ^ the amount of onions, or less if preferred, and 1 or 2 
green peppers; chop all together fine; then season with plenty of salt, 
a red pepper cut fine after removing the seeds, black jjepiDer and a 
little Avhite mustard^seed. Mix the spices well through the mass, 
pack in jars or bottles, and pour on cold vinegar. Keep it cool. It 
will be ready for use in a few days, will keep several weeks, and can 
be made thus without cooking. 



SWEET PICKLES. 

These are made from any of the fruits suitable for preserving, 
and also from some of the vegetables. The strength of the syrup 
used varies from 1 to 4 lbs. sugar to the quart of vinegar, as vinegar 
varies in strength and some people like it sweeter than others, but it 
is better to have the syrup rich. The best sugar to use is the best 
light brown or coffee " C " sugar; some use maple sugar. 

The spices generally used are cinnamon and cloves, although 
allspice, mace and ginger are sometimes added, and can be used by 
any who desire them. The spices should be tied in a muslin bag be- 
fore being boiled in the syrup, or they will discolor such fruits as 
apples, pears, etc. 

Apples, melon rinds, cucumbers and pears should be steamed 
until tender enough to pierce with a broom straw or fork before 
pouring the hot syru^a over them, as it then penetrates them more 
readily. Smooth skinned fruits, like plums, etc., should be j)ricked 
with a needle before being cooked in the syrup. Peaches if very ripe 



SWEET PICKLES 541 

do not need steaming, but otherwise they do. They are sometimes 
merely rubbed well with a cloth ; some people wash them first with a 
weak lye, and some cooks peel them. 

The method of making sweet pickles is to prepare the syrup, bring it 
to a boil, put in the pickles, and boil until tender; then put into jars 
and put away when cold. Another way is to prepare the syrup and 
pour it boiling hot on the pickles; let stand until next day, drain otf 
the syrup, boil it, pour on hot again, and repeat this for 4 or 5 days; 
then seal hot. Either plan works well. 

A Hint. — Many people do not know that sweet pickles can be 
made from preserves of almost any kind. All that is needed is to 
take the syrup, add vinegar and any spices desired, boil it up, and 
pour it again on the fruit. 

PICKLED APPLES. — Peel and core them, and steam until 
tender; prepare a syrup of 3 lbs. sugar to 1 
quart of vinegar, add spices (tied in a bag) 
bring to a boil, put in the apples, let simmer 
quietly 2 minutes, then put in jars and seal. 

CRAB APPLES. — Select good apples, take 
out the blossom end, steam until a fork will 
readily pierce them; prepare a rich syrup of 3| 
lbs. sugar to 1 pint vinegar, add sjjices, and fin- cbab apple. 

ish like sweet apples. 

PICKLED BEETS. — Boil them until tender, in a porcelaindined 
kettle, and when cold slice them crossways, as the appearance is bet- 
ter than if cut lengthways; put in jars and jDour on a hot rich syrup 
of vinegar, sugar, and spices to taste (put the spices in a bag). 

PICKLED BLACKBERRIES.— Prepare a syrup of 2 pints vine- 
gar, 4 lbs. sugar, and | oz. each of cinnamon and cloves; bring it to a 
boil, put in 10 lbs. berries, sininicr for ^ hour, and put into jars. 

Blueberries, Raspberries and Strawberries can be put up the same 
way. 

PICKLED RED CABBAGE.— Cut fine 8 heads of red cabbage, 
pack it in a crock in layers, sprinkling salt between each layer, and 
let stand over night. Then put 6 lbs. sugar in | gallon of vinegar, 
add 2 oz. each of allspice, pepper, cinnamon and cloves, and 2 table- 
spoons of celery seeds (tied in a bag); boil it and pour hot on the 
cabbage. 

PICKLED CANTELOPE.— Select melons which are neither soft, 
yellow, nor yet very green; pare, remove the seeds and soft inside, 




542 SWEET PICKLES 

slice, and stick a clove with the blossom end taken off into each 
piece. Prejjare a syrui3 of 3-| lbs. sugar to 2 quarts vinegar, and 
when it boils put in the melons and simmer until they are soft and 
transfjarent; then put into glass jars and pour on the syrup hot; leave 
until the next day and they will have settled a little, when fill 
again with the cold syrup left over, and cover closely. 

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER.— Cut the cauliflower into any 
shaped pieces desired, put them into strong brine, and leave 24 
hours; then take out, boil the brine, and pour it on the pickles scald- 
ing hot; let stand until next day, and drain them out. Prepare a 
spiced vinegar, boiling any spices desired in it; let it get cold, and 
pour it cold on the ijickles. 

PICKLED CHERRIES.— Stone and put 

into a jar 5 lbs. good ripe cherries, adding a few 
pits to flavor; take ^ oz. each of mace, cloves 
and cinnamon, 2 lbs. sugar, and 2 pints good ci- 
der vinegar; put all together, bring to a boil, 
and pour over the fruit hot. 

CURRANTS. — Put 6 heaping cups of sug- 
ar into 1 quart vinegar; add 7 lbs. currants, 
scald them, take them out and i^ut in jars; boil 
the syrup a few minutes, and pour it hot over 
the fruit. Use only | as much vinegar if they are desired sweeter. 

CUCUMBER PICKLES.— Take ripe cucumbers, quarter them, 
remove the seeds, and soak in strong brine (keeping ihem well un- 
der) for 10 days; take out, soak 1 day in clear cold water, and then 
over night in weak alum water, and drain them out; take 1 quart of 
vinegar, 6 cups sugar, 2 tablespoons each of cloves, mace and cinna- 
mon (tied in a bag), bring to a boil, put in the cucumbers, and sim- 
mer until tender. 

PICKLED GRAPES. — Take fresh, sound, ripe grapes, and pack 
them in jars; prepare sweetened and spiced vinegar, let it get cold, 
and pour over the grapes, covering them fully. 

PICKLED FIGS. — Make a hot pickle of sweetened cider vinegar; 
take ripe figs, peel them, put them in the pickle, and boil gently un- 
til tender. 

PICKLED PLUMS.— Gather the plums with the stalks, prick 
them with a needle, and put them wi'th layers of cloves and cinna- 
mon into glass jars. For every 4 lbs. plums boil up 2 lbs. sugar and 




SWEET PICKLES 543 

1 quart of vinegar, and pour it hot over the plums. Next day jjour 
oflf the vinegar, boil it up again, and i^our it over the fruit again; 
repeat this twice, then tie up. It improves by keeping. 

PICKLED PEACHES — If hard, steam them until tender; if soft, 
wijoe them only; then pack them in jars. Take 1 quart of sugar and 
1 tablespoon of cloves and broken stick cinnamon (tied in a bag) to 
each quart of vinegar; boil it 5 minutes and pour hot over the fruit; 
the next day turn it ofp, boil again, and jiour hot on the i^eaches 
again; repeat once, seal up and i)ut away. 

Pears and Quinces can be put up the same way, but the latter can 
be pared, cored and (piartered before steaming, and the parings and 
cores used for making jelly. 

PICKLED PINEAPPLE — This can be pared, sliced, and boiled 
gently until tender; then put in jars and finished like peaches. 

PICKLED RAISINS. — Prepaie a syrup of 1 cup sugar to 1 pint 
vinegar; put in 2 lbs. raisins, leaving the stems on, and cook gently 
30 minutes; then put them into jars. 

GREEN TOMATO PICKLES.- Slice 1 peck 
green tomatoes and 6 large onions (or 1 quart of 
small ones); sprinkle on 1 cu^) salt, and let stand 
over night; in the morning drain; then boil them 5 
minutes in 2 pints vinegar and 4 pints water, and 
again drain through a colander. Then take 1 gallon 
vinegar, and 2 lbs. sugar, 2 oz. white mustard^seed, 2 
tablespoons each of cinnamon, ginger and cloves, 

1 P 1 1 1 i TOMATO. 

and o green peppers, chopped, or f teaspoon cayenne 
pejDper instead; boil all gently 15 minutes, and pour over the chop- 
ped tomatoes and onions. They will keep a year or more. If de- 
sired, the onions can be omitted, and the tomatoes put up alone in 
the same way. 

Tomalo Pickles No. 2.— Take 1 peck sliced green tomatoes, and 
let them stand in strong brine all night; then drain, boil until ten- 
der, drain again and put in jars. - Prepare a syrup of 3 lbs. sugar, -J- 
oz. allspice, and 1 oz. each cinnamon and cloves to 1 c^uart vinegar; 
boil, and pour hot over the tomatoes. 

HUSK TOMATO PICKLES— For 7 lbs. husk tomatoes use 4 lbs. 
sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 2 teaspoons each of cloves, cinnamon and 
mace; prick the tomatoes instead of peeling, put them in a porcelain 
kettle with the sugar in alternate layers, heat slowly to boiling, add 
the vinegar and spices, and boil 5 minutes; take the fruit out with a 




544 SPICED FRUIT 

perforated skimmer, and spread it on dishes to cool; when cool, pack 
it in glass jars, boil the syrup thick, and pour it boiling hot on the 
fruit. Examine them occasionally the first month, and if any signs 
of fermenting appear, set the jars uncovered in a kettle of water 
(with thick cloth under them) and heat until the contents are 
scalded. These are very nice. 

WATERMELON RIND.— Soak it in vinegar over night; then 
boil it in water until tender, and drain. Prepare a syrup of 3 lbs. 
sugar and 1 oz. each cinnamon and cloves (tied in a bag) to 1 quart 
vinegar, or to 1 pint vinegar if wanted very sweet; bring it to a boil, 
put in the rind, boil 5 minutes and put in jars. 

Citron can be put up in the same way. 



SPICED FRUIT. 

Some people confound spiced fruit and sweet pickles, but they 
are not the same. Sweet pickles are really a pickle, but spiced fruit 
is a spiced preserve, usually boiled down thick. 

SPICED FRUIT.— Sprinkle 1| lbs. sugar over 3^ lbs. fruit and 
let it stand over night; then take the juice, add 1 cup vinegar, and 
cinnamon, mace and cloves to taste, and boil 15 minutes, then put 
the fruit in and boil 10 minutes and put in jars. 

SPICED APPLES. — Take 2 cups vinegar, 2 lbs. of sugar, ^ oz. 
cinnamon and ^ oz. of cloves; boil all together, and while boiling add 
4 lbs. of apples which are pared, quartered and cored; let them boil 
about 20 minutes, or until tender; then take them out and put in a 
jar; boil the syrup down until thick and pour it over the apples. 

SPICED BLACKBERRIES.— Take 1 

cup of vinegar, 2 cups of sugar, and 1 ta- 
blesj)oon each of allspice, cloves and cin- 
namon; add 2| lbs. blackberries, bring to a 
boil, skim out the blackberries, and boil 
the balance for 1 hour; put back the ber- 
ries and boil 15 minutes; then put in jars 
and tightly cover. 

The Blaokbeeky is found in northern climates 
and well repays cultivation. The root is astrin- blaokbekby. 

gent and is used to check diarrhea. The fruit is 

wholesome and palatable. Its composition is 86.3^ water, 4.5^ sugar and 1.2^ free 
acid. 





SPICED FRUIT 545 

SPICED CHERRIES — Boil together 2 pints vinegar, 2 lbs. 
sugar, and, tied in a bag, ^ oz. each of cinnamon, cloves and mace; 
then put in 5 lbs. tart cherries, having the stems left on, and boil 20 
minutes. 

SPICED CURRANTS.— Take 4 lbs. sugar, 2 cups of vinegar, 4 
teaspoons each of allspice, cinnamon and cloves (tied in a bag); add 
5 lbs. currants and boil 2 to 3 hours. 

SPICED ELDERBERRIES — Take 2 cups vinegar, 4 lbs. sugar, 1 
teaspoon each of allspice and cloves and 1 table- 
spoon of cinnamon (all tied in a bag), and boil; 
then add 6 lbs. elderberries, boil 2 hours, and 
put in jars. 

The Eldeebeeky is widely distributed. The berries 
are sub=acid and sweetish with a rather unpleasant flavor. eldeebeeeies. 

Some of the poorer German people use them in soups. 

The flower buds are sometimes pickled and used like capers. They are aperient, 
diuretic and sudorific medicinally. 

SPICED GOOSEBERRIES.— Take 5 lbs. gooseberries, 4 lbs. 
sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 1 tablespoon cloves and cinnamon; boil 3 
hours, then put in jars. 

SPICED GRAPES — Pulp 7 lbs. grapes and scald until the pulps 
will pass through a sieve; then put them in the preserving kettle, add 
5 lbs. sugar, 1 quart vinegar, and ground cinnamon, cloves and all- 
spice to taste ; let boil, add the skins, and boil 1 hour, or longer if 
they are wanted very thick. 

SPICED PEARS. — Take 2 cups vinegar and 6 cups of sugar, and 
j)ut cinnamon, cloves and mace in a bag and boil all till nearly thick 
enough; then put in pears which have been nicely pared, and 3 or 4 
cloves (without the heads) stuck in each one, and boil until they 
look clear; now put the pears in a jar, pour the syrup ov^er, cover 
tightly, and they will keep indefinitely. 

SPICED PEACHES — Wipe 2| lbs. peaches and boil them until 
tender in 2 cups vinegar and 1 lb. brown sugar; then take them out 
and put in | oz. each of cinnamon, mace and cloves, boil them all 
well, and pour over the peaches. 

SPICED TOMATOES.— To each pound of ripe tomatoes (peeled) 
allow ^ cup vinegar, ^ lb. sugar, and spices to taste; boil all together 
gently until the tomatoes are cooked; take out the tomatoes and put 
them on a dish till cold, but let the syrup simmer; put back the 
tomatoes when cold, and cook till they are a dark red; then take 
them out and boil the syrup down thick. When cold, put in jars 
and seal. 

So 



546 CATSUPS AND SOYS 

CATSUPS AND SOYS. 

In making catsups use good sound fruit. See what we say 
about " The Utensils Used " in the introduction to our article on 
"Jams, Jellies, etc.," as that will apply also for catsups. Do not put 
these up in tin cans, but use glass or stone jars. If mold is found on 
fop when the catsup is opened, it can all be removed, and the con- 
tents will not be seriously injured; but if mold is scattered in spots 
throughout the mass, it is worthless. If when a can is opened there 
is danger that the balance of the contents will spoil, it should l)e 
thoroughly heated. Vinegar can then be added if too thick. 

Catsuf)s, like preserves, should be kept in a dark, dry, cool place 
A few whole cloves laid on top will jjrevent mold from forming. 

APPLE CATSUP. — Take 12 tart, sound apples, pare and quarter 
them, and cook in very little water until soft; then pulp through a 
sieve; for each quart of this pulp take 2 cups vinegar, 2 medium^ 
sized onions chopped fine, 1 cup of sugar, 2 teaspoons of cinnamon, 1 
teaspoon each of mustard, cloves and i)epper, 1 tal)lespoon salt; mix 
all together with the pulp, and boil 1 hour; put into jars hc^., and seal 
tight. 

C AB APPLE CATSUP.— Take | peck of chopped crab apples 
(do not remove the skins), 3 cups of sugar, 1 pint of vinegar, 1 even 
tablespoon salt, 1 teaspf)on each of ground cinnamon, pepper, and 
cloves. Cook slowly until soft; then put in jars. 

CHERRY CATSUP.— Take the pits from 2 quarts of nice large 
cherries; put 2 cups of vinegar with 2 cups of sugar, a dozen whole 
cloves, and 2 or 3 sticks of cinnamon, broken coarsely, in the preserv- 
ing kettle, and boil the cherries 10 minutes. Set away in the kettle 
until next day; boil again 5 minutes and pack hot in wide mouthed 
bottles; cork tightly. A few whole cloves under the corks will pre- 
vent mold in the t(^ps of the bottles. 

CUCUMBER CATSUP. -Grate the cucum- 
bers, drain them in a colander, and for each 
quart allow 2 cups vinegar, 4 tablespoons grated 
horseradish, 2 teaspoons salt, and ^ teas^joon 
cayenne pepi^er. Bottle without cooking, and 
seal. Some cooks cover it with vinegar alone; 
others add 1 large onion, chopped very fine. 

CURRANT CATSUP.— Take 6 quarts of cucumber. 

currant juice, 2 lbs. sugar, 1 teaspoon cloves, 1 

tablespoon each of cinnamon, allspice and salt. Boil half down; 
then add 1 cup vinegar. Cork tightly. 




CATSUPS AND SOYS 



547 



ELDERBERRY CATSUP.— Pick 2 pints elderberries from the 
stalk, put in a jar, and x^our over them 2 pints scalding hot vinegar; 
cover with window glass and set in the sun 2 days; then drain off the 
liquor and add 2 tablespoons white sugar, 1 tablespoon small pep- 
pers, 6 anchovies soaked and picked to pieces, 1 teaspoon salt, | tea- 
spoon cloves; boil 1 hour, stirring frequently, and keeping covered 
when not stirring; then take from the stove, let it cool, then strain, 
bottle, and seal. 

GRAPE CATSUP. — Take 6 lbs. grapes, boil in a little water and 
strain; add 3 lbs. sugar, 2 cups vinegar, 1 
tablespoon each of cloves, cinnamon, extract 
of lemon, and salt; boil until thick, and 
bottle. 




GOOSEBEKEIES. 



GOOSEBERRY CATSUP — To 8 quarts 
of gooseberrries add 4 lbs. brown sugar, 2 
cups vinegar, 2 oz. cinnamon, 1 oz. cloves. 
Boil 4 hours slowly, and stir frequently. 

LEMON CATSUP.— Mix together 4 tablespoons of white mus- 
tard=seed, 2 tablespoons each of grated horseradish and sugar, 1 
tablespoon each of white pejjper and turmeric, 1 tablesjjoon each of 
mace and cloves, 1 saltspoon of cayenne pe^^per, 1 shallot minced 
fine; have the spices all ground fine, and sprinkle on 2 tablespoons 
salt. Add the grated rind and juice of 12 lemons, cover, and put for 
3 hours in a cool place; then boil -I hour, strain through flannel, 
bottle and seal. 

MUSHROOM CATSUP.— Put the mush- 
rooms in layers, with salt sprinkled on each 
layer, and let stand 4 days; then mash them 
. fine, and to each quart add | of a teaspoon of 
black pepper, and boil it 2 hours in a crock 
set in boiling water; strain it from the liquor 
without squeezing; boil the liquor, and let it 
stand to cool and settle; thenJbottle and seal 
securely. 

OYSTER CATSUP.— Chop 1 quart of oysters, put them in a 
porcelain kettle with their liquor and 1 cup vinegar;- bring to a boil, 
skim off the scum as it rises, and boil 3 or 4 minutes; strain through 
coarse flannel or a hair sieve, return the liquor to the fire and add 1 
tablespoon salt, and 1 teaspoon each of mace and cayenne pepper; 
boil 20 minutes, and bottle when cold, sealing it well, 




MUSHROOMS. 



548 CATSUPS AND SOYS 

PEPPER CATSUP.— Take 50 pods of large, red, bell peppers, 
seeds and all; add 1 pint vinegar, and boil until you can pull 
it through a sieve; then add to the pulj^ 1 pint vinegar, 2 tablepoons 
each of sugar, cloves, mace, allspice, salt and onions, and boil all to 
the proper consistency. Some cooks omit the spices. 

TOMATO CATSUP. — Tomatoes for catsujis are best gathered m 
August, as they become acid and v^atery later on. Select good toma- 
toes, scald and strain through a sieve; to each 2 quarts of the sifted 
tomatoes, allow 2| tablespoons each of black pepper, salt and ground 
mustard, 1 tablespoon of cloves, and 2 cups of vinegar; boil 3 hours 
and bottle for use. 

Tomato Catsup No. 2. — Take 1 bushel of tomatoes, 2 oz. salt, 1^ oz. 
ground black pepper, 1 oz. ground cinnamon, ^ oz. ground cloves, 3 
tablespoons ground mustard. Skin and slice the tomatoes, stew 
them until soft, rub through a sieve, and boil the pulp slowly until it 
is about the consistency of apple butter; then add 1 quart of vinegar 
to which has been added 1 cup of sugar and the above si3ices ; boil up 
twice, bottle and seal. 

WALNUT CATSUP. — Gather the nuts while they are young 
and tender enough to pierce with a pin easily; mash them to a soft 
pulp, and let them lie in salt water 2 weeks; drain 
them, cover with boiling vinegar, mix and mash 
them in it, and strain through a colander; to each 
quart of the juice add 3 tablespoons each of 
X^epper and grated nutmeg, 2 tablespoons of 
powdered cloves, 1 tablespoon of ginger; boil 1 
hour, and bottle when cold. 

The Walnut is a native of Persia. In the south of 
Europe it is quite largely consumed, being there considered 
wholesome and nutritious. The unripe fruit, when the shell walnut. 

is soft, makes an excellent pickle. By boiling them in 
syrup a delicate sweetmeat is prepared. The oil pressed 

from the nut is sometimes used as a substitute for olive oil on the continent, 
and it is the nut oil used in painting. The matter left after the oil is extracted 
is nutritious for poultry or cattle. Grated walnuts are used in Spain for tarts and 
other dishes. 

SOYS. ■ 
CURRANT SOY— Take ^ gallon of currants and add 2 cups vin- 
egar, 1 cup sugar (heaped), 1 tablespoon mace, the same of allspice, 
1 teaspoon each of cinnamon and pepper; boil all together 1 hour, 
bottle and seal. 

Soy. — The genuine soy is made in Japan and China from the seeds of a plant 
called Dolichos Soja; the seeds are similar to our kidney bean, but are black. The 
soy is made by boiling the seeds until soft, adding wheat or barley, allowing it to 
ferment, and then adding an equal amount of salt. It becomes clearer with age. 




CATSUPS AND SOYS 549 

There are many stories of its adulteration, some of them unfortunately being too 
true. It is mucli liked with fish. The term has now come, however, to be applied 
to a kind of catsup. 

GOOSEBERRY SOY.— Take 2 cups vinegar, 3 lbs. sugar, and 6 
lbs. gooseberries; boil 30 minutes. 

QRAPE SOY. — Take 5 lbs. grapes and let them simmer gently 
until soft; strain through a sieve and add 2 tablesi^oons each of all- 
spice and cinnamon, ^tablespoon each of cloves, grated nutmeg, and 
salt, 3 cups of sugar (heaped), and 2 cups vinegar; mix all thor- 
oughly, boil until thick, bottle and seal. 

PLUM SOY — Take 1 gallon of plums, boil gently until tender, 
rub through a sieve, and add 2 tablespoons of sugar, the same of salt, 

1 tablespoon each of cloves, ground mustard and black pepper, and 

2 cups vinegar; boil gently 1 hour, bottle and seal. 

GREEN TOMATO SOY.— Take 4 quarts of green tomatoes, sliced 
but not peeled, 12 onions peeled and sliced, add 4 cups sugar, 1 table- 
spoon each of cloves and allspice, 2 tablespoons each of black pepper, 
ground mustard and salt, and ^ gallon of good vinegar; boil gently, 
stirring frequently, until tender; bottle and seal. 

RIPE TOMATO SOY. — Peel and slice 4 quarts of ripe tomatoes, 
slice and add 7 onions, sprinkle on 1 cup salt, and let stand 36 
hours, when drain off the liquor; then add 1 teaspoon red pepper, 2 
teaspoons each of allspice, cloves, ginger and ground mustard, and ^ 
gallon of good vinegar; let it simmer quietly 2 hours and add ^ lb. 
white mustard=seed and 4 cups sugar; cook till done, then bottle and 
seal. 



VINEGAR. 




INEGAR (from the French riti aigre meaning literally sour 
wine) is a form of acetic acid, and its flavor varies according 
to the source from which it is obtained. Vinegar of the 
best quality is obtained from the grape, white wine vinegar 
being usually considered the best. Cider vinegar is derived from 
cider, and in the United States most of the vinegar was formerly 
obtained from this source. Its flavor is peculiar, and many prefer it- 
Vinegar is also made from barley, sour ale or beer, glucose, etc. Vin- 
egar containing 5% of the iDure acetic acid is called lyroof vinegar, 
and is the strongest that is used, but much of that sold in the market 
contains only 3% of the acid or even less. It is frecj^uently adulter- 
ated with other acids like sulphuric, muriatic, etc. Many flavored 
vinegars used for culinary purposes are merely ordinary vinegar fla- 
vored with fruits, herbs or vegetables. We give elsewhere recipes for 
making a great variety of these. 

All vegetable juices can go through the acetous fermentation and 
produce vinegar. The process can be hastened by introducing a lit- 
tle ferment, like yeast. The fermentation takes place most readily at 
70° to 90° F., but below 60° or above 90° the action begins to dimin- 
ish; boiling and freezing both stop it altogether. 

Vinegar can be made from any pure fruit jelly which has begun 
fermenting, or which will not " set." All that is needed is to add 
water and set it in a warm place, or exposed to the sun is best, 
covered with mosquito netting. Adding a little " mother," or yeast, 
will hasten it. Vinegar can also be made from cider or any pure 
fruit wine in the same way, but add a little sugar. 

Vinegar and yeast are best ke^jt in glass vessels; glazed ware is 
not suitable, as their acids attack the glazing, extract its lead, and 
produce the poisonous acetate of lead. See what we say about 
"The Utensils Used" in our preceding chapter on "Jams, Jellies, 
etc." It will apply for vinegar, also. 

Mother of vinegar is a fungus, or low form of plant life (the Mycodermi aceti). 
A little of this put into a sweet or alcoholic solution will soon convert it into acetic 
acid or vinegar. The plant may be divided and propagated to any extent. 

Vinegar can hardly be said to have any nutritive value, its office being to stim- 
ulate the nerves of taste, and to flavor various foods. It also has a powerful pre- 
servative action, preventing the decomposition of vegetable and animal sub- 
stances. 

550 



VINEGAR 



551 




APPLE VINEGAR. — When cooking apples, save the parings 
and cores (if sound) ; they can be thrown into a jar from time to time, 
as they accumulate; add enough soft water to cover, and 1 cup of 
sugar or molasses to each 7 or 8 quarts of water; keep out insects by 
covering with netting; keep it in a warm place and it will form good 
vinegar. 

BEET VINEGAR. — A good vinegar can be 
made from beets by extracting the juice, aiid 
letting it stand in a warm place, or exposed to 
the sun, covered with netting; a little yeast will 
hasten the process. 

CHERRY VINEGAR.— Into 1 quart of good 
cider jput 4 lbs. cherries, mashed, and add their 
stones, also; let stand 24 hours, and add 4 lbs. 
more cherries without their stones; let stand 3 
days and strain (but do not squeeze) through a 
thin bag; add 1 quart of sugar to each quart of beet. 

juice, and boil gently 30 minutes; skim and bot- 
tle when cold. 

CIDER VINEGAR. — To each 2 quarts of cider add 1 cup molas- 
ses and ^ cup yeast; keep covered where the temperature is 70° to 
90° and it will soon make vinegar; then draw it off from the dregs, 
and keep in a jug, or bottles, tightly corked. Cider for vinegar, 
should be made from good sound apples which are not wormy or 
decayed. 

CLOVER VINEGAR. — Put into a jar 1 quart of molasses, and 
pour on 2^ gallons of pure soft water, boiling hot; as soon as it is 
barely lukewarm, add 2 cups hop yeast and 5 pints clover blossoms; 
cover and let stand a fortnight; then strain through cloth. 

CORN VINEGAR — Put into a jar 2 cups of corn cut from the 
cob, add 2 cups of molasses or brown sugar, and 4 quarts of pure soft 
water; set it in the sun coyered with netting to keep out the insects; 
in 3 weeks it will make good vinegar, which is preferred by many 
people to cider vinegar. 

CURRANT VINEGAR.— T(j 1 gallon of pure, soft water add 3 
cups brown sugar and 5 cups strained currant juice; keep in a warm 
place (from 70° to 90°) and it will form vinegar. Or, mash the cur- 
rants, let stand over night, strain, and let the juice stand in a warm 
IDlace until fermentation ceases. White currants will make a deli- 
cate, pale vinegar. 



552 VINEGAR 

GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR.— Take ripe gooseberries, mash them, 
and to each quart add Ih quarts soft water, milk warm; let it stand 
24 hours, strain it, and add 1 lb. coarse brown sugar to each quart; 
let it stand in a warm place in the kitchen, and in 2 or 8 months it 
will make fine vinegar. It will be superior to much that is sold as 
white wine vinegar. 

HONEY VINEGAR.— Mix thoroughly into 1 gallon of warm soft 
water, 2 cups of clear honey; cover and let it ferment, when it will 
make good vinegar. 

MOLASSES VINEGAR.— To each gallon of warm soft water add 
1 pint molasses and | cup yeast; keep warm and in 3 weeks it will 
make vinegar. 

POTATO VINEGAR. — Take the water in which potatoes have 
been boiled, and to a gallon add ^ cup hop yeast and 2 cups sugar; 
cover with netting, let stand exposed to the sun or in a warm place, 
and in about a month it will make good vinegar. 

RASPBERRY VINEGAR — Put raspberries 
in a stone jar and add enough vinegar to cover 
them; let stand 6 days covered over, but stirring 
occasionally; then strain through flannel; add 
sugar pint for pint, boil ^ hour, skim, and bottle 
when cold. 

The Raspbeeky belongs to the same species as the 
blackberry. There are 2 kinds — the red and the white. 
The white is the rarer of the two. The juice is rich and 
abundant, and the fruit is wliolesome and valuable to people 
of a nervous or bilious temperament. 

RHUBARB VINEGAR.— Crush the rhubarb, easpbebbies. 

cover with lukewarm water, and let stand 36 hours; then strain, add 
1| lbs. raw sugar or molasses to the gallon of juice, and also add a lit- 
tle yeast; keep it covei-ed and in a warm place for 4 weeks; then 
strain, put in a keg and leave it to ripen. 

SORGHUM VINEGAR.— Use about 4 gallons of water to 1 gal- 
lon of sorghum; keep it in a warm place, or in the sun covered with 
netting, and it will turn to vinegar. Adding a little yeast will 
hasten the process. 

Tomato vinegar can be made of it by adding I gallon of ripe 
tomatoes at the same time that the sorghum is added. 

. SUGAR VINEGAR.— To 1 gallon of water add 1| lbs. raw sugar, 
and I pint yeast; keep it at about 80°; in 4 days it can be drawn off, 
when add 1 oz. each of cream of tartar and chopped raisins; in a few 
weeks it will be ready to bottle. 




VINEGAR 553 

YEAST VINEGAR. — Put into an open keg or jar 2 quarts of 
hop yeast sponge (set and allowed to get light as for bread); add 5 
lbs. sugar or molasses, 5 gallons of soft water, and 2 quarts of corn 
which has been boiled until tender (adding it when cold); keep it 
covered and in 3 weeks it will make fine vinegar. 

AROMATIC VINEGAR.— Take 15 grains of oil of cloves, 10 

grains oil of cinnamon, 5 grains of oil of lavender, 1 oz. of camphor, 
^ pint glacial acetic acid; mix and bottle. Aromatic vinegar is a 
nasal stimulant useful for reviving and refreshing those who suffer 
from faintness and nervous headaches. 

SPICED VINEGAR.— Mix and tie in small muslin bags. 1 oz. 
each of allspice, celery seed, cloves, turmeric, mace, pepper, ground 
mustard and white ginger cut small; add 3 cups sugar and 1^ gallons 
vinegar; keep closely covered and use as needed. 



BEVERAGES. 




HEN it is remembered that abont 87% of the body consists 
of water, which is constantly evaporating and passing 
away, and which must be regularly renewed, the neces- 
sity and imi)ortance of beverages will be readily seen. 
Water is the most natural drink for man, and however it may be 
flavored or disguised it is the chief ingredient in all his beverages. 
Not less than 3^ pints a day are needed by an ordinary person, and 
those who are very large or active may need 4 or 5 pints daily. Al- 
though water is found in all the food we take, a large proportion of 
the needed amount must be taken in beverages. Although in hot 
weather cold drinks are very refreshing, and within proper limits are 
not objectionable, at other times they often chill the digestive organs 
and depress the nerve centers, so that there is reason as well as plea- 
sure in the use of hot drinks. 

TEA. 

Of all the beverages devised by man tea is probably the most 
extensively used. 

TO MAKE TEA. — Allow 1 teaspoon of tea for each cup water, 
and an extra one for the pot. This is the old rule, but it varies 
somewhat with the quality of the tea, less being required of the finer 
grades than of the cheap teas, and as the finer grades go farther 
they are not so much more expensive in the end. If much is made 
at once the proportion can be reduced a little. Pour boiling water 
into the teapot, and let it stand until the pot is heated through; then 
pour out the water, put in the tea, and pour on the water boiling hot, 
cover closely, and set for 3 to 5 minutes where it will keep hot but 
without hoiling. English breakfast tea may stand 3, and black tea 5 
minutes; then pour into the cups. 

ICED TEA {Russian Recipe) .^-Tea for icing should be made 
rather stronger than when intended for drinking hot, letting the 
boiling water stand on the tea for 7 minutes; then pour the tea from 
the leaves, sweeten to taste, and stand it in a refrigerator for 5 or 6 
hours. Serve it in a bowl with lumps of ice and slices of lemon 
floating in it. Have a pitcher of ice water at hand to weaken it for 
those who think it too strong. In serving it each person should 
receive a lump of ice and a slice of lemon. 

554 



BEVERAGES 555 

Iced Tea No. 2. — For each tumbler of water allow 1 teaspoon of 
the best tea; put the tea, water and lumps of ice into an earthen ves- 
sel and stand in the refrigerator 5 or 6 hours. Easier than the for- 
mer method. 

ORANGE TEA — Slice a tart orange, peel and all, place a slice 
in each cup, and fill with hot tea. 

The Principles Involved. — Experiments have shown that five-sixths of the 
valuable qualities are extracted from tea by boiling water in 3 minutes, and in 
10 minutes the leaves are nearly exhausted. If the leaves are steeped a second 
time, or if they remain too long in the hot water, the aroma is wasted, the tannin 
is extracted which makes the tea bitter, and it then disorders the digestion. Much 
of the evil wrought by tea is caused by this too long intusion which extracts a 
large part of its tannin. 

The object to aim at is to extract as much as possible of the theine and vola- 
tile oil, and as little as possible of the tannin. When the infusion is once com- 
plete, adding fresh tea adds very little to the strength; if more tea is wanted, 
empty out the old leaves, scald the pot, and make fresh tea as before. 

Essentials of Making Tea. — The following are the 4 essentials for 
good tea: (1) Use good tea, and have the right amount of it. (2) 
Have the water boiling hot (not lukewarm) when poured on. (3) 
Have the teapot hot before the tea and water are put in. (4) Do not 
let it steep too long. Stciccd tea is no good. 

If Tea Is Required Quickly, put it into the teapot and stand it in 
the oven while the water is coming to the boil; as soon as that is boil- 
ing hot pour it on the tea, and in a minute it can be served. 

The Teapot. — A china teapot is the best to use. Do not use tin, 
because a poisonous compound is produced by the action on the 
metal of the tannic acid of the tea. The teapot should be clean and 
dry before using. 

The Water Used. — In making tea the water used is an important 
consideration. Soft water is better than hard, but if it is too soft 
it is apt to extract too much of the general properties of the tea and 
sacrifice its delicacy of flavor, and if too hard it does not extract the 
theine and volatile oil readily enough. Do not use water which has 
been twice boiled, or which has boiled long before being used, be- 
cause boiling expels the air a;id gasses and makes the water flat and 
tasteless. This is really an important item — far more important than 
many people imagine. The more rapidly the water is heated the bet- ' 
ter the tea. When the water is poured on the tea it should be boiling 
hot, and not either cold or lukewarm, and it should be poured on as 
soon as it boils. If poured on cold and brought to a boil it will 
extract the tannic acid, injuring both the flavor and the value of the 
tea. Carbonate of soda has been sometimes used in making tea; it 
may soften very hard water, but it will spoil the flavor and eflPect of 
the tea. 




556 BEVERAGES 

Hints. — With some persons the sleeplessness and headache caused 
by drinking tea is prevented by putting in a slice of lemon instead of 
the milk. 

Weak green tea with a little sugar and lemon juice in it, but no 
milk, is a very refreshing drink in cases of fever, taken either hot oi 
cold. 

The tea plant (Thea sinensis) is native to China, Japan and Northern India. 
The use of the dried leaves is said to have been introduced into China from Corea 
in the Ith century, and from thence to Japan, and to have been brought to Europe 
by the Dutch East India Company in the 17th century. The 
leaves of the tea plant can only be gathered at certain sea- 
sons. Tlie first picking is in April. It yields the finest tea, 
but little of it is shipped abroad, as a sea voyage injures its 
delicate flavor. This tea is largely used by the wealthy Chi- 
nese, and some of it is carried overland to Russia. The next 
picking is in May, and a third, later in the season, furnishes 
the inferior teas which are bitterer and more woody than that 
gathered earlier. 

Tea leaves are dried in pans which are heated over smoke- 
less fires. Green teas are dried quickly to preserve their color, 
while black teas are exposed to the air for a time and undergo 
a sort of fermentation which darkens them. In tea producing '^^*' 

countries the decoction is drunk alone without flavoring; in 

other countries something is added. The Germans often flavor it with rum, cinna- 
mon or vanilla. The Russians squeeze in lemon juice, while some savage tribes 
in Tartary boil the leaves with soda, season them with butter and salt, and eat 
them. 

Tea contains an alkaloid called theine. which is similar to the caffeine in coffee, 
and theobromine in cocoa. Besides this it contains a volatile oil, some tannic acid, 
and some ordinary food substances. Its volatile or essential oil is developed dur- 
ing drying and roasting, and ought not to escape, as upon this its market value 
depends more than on anything else. The volatile oil, as well as the theine and 
tannin, is more abundant in green than in black tea. As ordinarily made, 3 times 
as much theine is obtained from tea as from coffee. 

The nutritive element in tea is very small, it being a stimulant rather than a 
food, but, "it aids the assimilation and transformation of other foods, increases 
cheerfulness and activity, clears and quickens the brain, and lessens the desire to 
sleep." It warms the body when cold, cools it when hot by promoting the perspi- 
ration of the skin, and has an astringent action on the bowels. Tea contains from 
2to4$? of theine, about l^of essential oil, 14$? of tannin, and 20^ of nitrogenous mat- 
ter insoluble in water. Taken to excess it acts like a vegetable poison, and with 
young people it is liable to interfere with the proper development of the nervous 
system. 

COFFEE. 

It is safe to say that a large percentage of the people who use 
coflPee never drank a really first class cup of it, and a large proportion 
of the stuff served as coffee is unworthy of the name. And yet good 
coffee is not difficult to make if it is handled intelligently. 

The water used should be fresh and clear. Long boiling of the 
water expels the air and gases, and makes it flat and insipid. It 
should therefore be used as soon as it boils, and this is a much more 
important item than many people imagine. Do not reboil the water, 
nor let it boil long before being used, or the best results cannot be 
obtained. 



BEVERAGES 557 

The roasting of the coffee is also an important matter. It is best 
roasted and ground just before it is used. If more is roasted than 
needed for immediate use it should be kept in an airtight glass jar or 
canister; if exposed to the air it deteriorates. Unpleasant odors and 
moisture are readily absorbed by it, so keep it in a dry and clean 
place. To roast coffee, put the desired quantity into a perfectly 
clean, broad dripi^ing pan; have a moderate heat at first, shake and 
stir frequently; after 20 or 30 minutes increase the heat and stir fre- 
quently until it is an even chestnut or " coffee color." If any berries 
are burned they must be jiicked out and thrown away, or they will 
spoil the coffee. Remember that the peculiar and delightful aroma 
of coffee is due to the changes in one or more oils i^roduced by this 
roasting; in raw berries it is lacking. When properly roasted these 
elements constitute about 13% of the berry. If not heated suffi- 
ciently the aroma is not properly developed; if heated too much the 
flavor is again dissipated. 

When the berries are properly browned, lift the i3an from the 
stove to the table and stir in 1 tablespoon of butter and the beaten 
white of 2 eggs to each pound of coffee, stirring it quickly and well 
that each berry may be glazed. This helps to develop the aroma, and 
also to confine it in the berry until let out by grinding. All the cof- 
fee which is not used at ance should be i3ut into a sieve, when 
cold, and shaken to break apart any berries which stick together; 
then put it into an air-tight canister. 

If coffee is bought at the store, roasted but not ground, each 
time any is used put into the frying=pan what you want for that meal, 
but no more; heat it over a quick fire until the aroma is perceptible, 
shaking it constantly and adding barely enough butter to gloss but 
not make it greasy; then grind it at once and use it. If it was 
ground at home and buttered, reheat it and use the same way, but 
without buttering it. This freshens it and develops its aroma. Re- 
member that the coffee should always go hot from the fryingpan to 
the coffee mill, and from the mill to the coffee jjot, if you want the 
best results. If ground coffee is used, that can also be heated until 
the aroma is perceptible, before adding the water. 

Grinding the Coffee — Be sure your coffee is ground right. Most 
grocers grind the coffee too coarse, so that much more coffee is used 
than necessary, because in coarse coffee the flavor is not readily ex- 
tracted. If you grind it yourself make it about like coarse cornmeal 
— not coarser than that. If your grocer grinds it make him grind it 
the same way. He may not like to, but it is the best and most eco- 
nomical w^ay and insist on it. If it is too fine (say as fine as flour), on 



558 BEVERAGES 

the other hand, it will clog the strainer. It is too coarse if it is like 
rice or coarse oatmeal. 

Over=boning. — The tannic acid in coffee should not be extracted or 
it will make the coffee bitter, and it will also disorder the stom- 
ach more; 5 minutes is the limit to which coffee should be boiled to 
avoid this, Mdiile 3 minutes is better. It is an erroneous idea that the 
longer coffee boils the stronger and better it is. After the caffeine 
and ai:oma are extracted, further boiling is a detriment. Cover the 
spout also when boiling coffee in a coffee i)ot, that the aroma may not 
escaj^e through it. The one great object in making coffee is to ex- 
traci and retain the caffeine and aromatic essential oils, ivitJi ok t ex- 
tracting the fanm'n, and any method which does this is a good 
method. 

The Cream and Sugar. — The milk served with coffee should be 
scalding hot, but should not be boiled. A pitcher of milk can be set 
in a pan of hot water and brought nearly to the boiling point day 
after day, without injuring the china. Some persons find the taste of 
boiled milk objectionable. Serve cream also if you can; 1 tablespoon 
of cream and 2 of hot milk is about right. If the coffee is very 
strong, fill the cup ^ to | full of coffee, and fill it up with hot milk; 
this is much better than diluting the coffee with water. Never fill a 
cup quite full — it must not run over. Allow each guest to add the 
sugar to his taste, unless it is one of the family whose taste you 
know. A very pretty effect is produced by i^lacing on the surface of 
each cup a teaspoon of whipped cream. 

Settling the Coffee. — Isinglass, fish skins, eggs and cold water are 
used to clear or settle coffee. Egg shells can be washed and saved 
for this purpose, 2 or 8 of them being enough to clear a quart of 
coffee; they answer about as well as the egg itself, and are less expen- 
sive. 

The Coffee Pot. — As good coffee as was ever tasted can be made 
with a common coffee i)ot, but some prefer a French biggin or some 
other device. Those who like these improvements and find them a 
help can use them, but do not imagine that they are really nccessdVjj 
in order to make good coffee, for they are not. But whatever coffee 
pot is used must be absolutely clean — not even milk pans require 
more scrupulous cleanliness. 

Every time the coffee j)ot is used it should be thoroughly 
cleaned, spout and all. If neglected, or if the coffee is allowed to 
stand long in the pot, a sort of black, greasy deposit will form on the 
inside, and it will spoil all coffee made in the pot while it is there. 
So wash, scald and dry the pot each time after being used. Dry 



BEVERAGES 559 

each piece of a French coffee pot separately. Scald it out with liot 
water — cold water sets the greasy film, and is worse than useless. Do 
not use any soap or soapy water, hwi fresh, hot water merely. 

If the pot has been neglected, and is coated, put in a tablespoon 
of washing soda, fill it with water, and boil it for a long time; then 
scrub it out well, rinse it with hot water, and dry it. Boil the 
strainers and all parts in the soda water, and scrub them also. Do 
not heat the coffee pot 'too hot in drying it, or -the next coffee made 
in it will taste l)urnt. 

Essentials of Making Coffee. — The essentials of making good coffee 
are the following: (1) Have good coffee, and use the right quantity 
of it. (2) Have it hot so that there is a percej^tible smell of the 
aroma before it goes to the coffee pot. (8) Cook it just long enough 
to extract all the caffeine and aroma, without getting the tannic acid. 
(4) Serve it hot at once, and with hot milk. (5) Be sure the coft'ee 
pot is clean and in good condition. 

There are many ways of making coffee. It may be boiled or 
unboiled, made in a j)lain coffee pot or a French biggin or "grecque" 
and so on. While the object aimed at is the same in all cases, the 
modus operandi must vary with the coffee pot used, etc. We will 
explain a few, of the best methods, with and without the biggin. 
But remember that by no process will the result be satisfactory 
unless good coffee is used, and, also, if you would have really good 
coffee you must take pains with it. If you wnll observe the i^rinci- 
ples which underlie the process you can serve up most delicious 
coffee which will make glad the hearts of those who drink it. 

Amount of Coffee to Use. — Allow 1 heaping tablespoon of ground 
coffee for each cup of water; this is the standard rule, but if a large 
quantity is made the proportion can be a little less. 

FILTERED COFFEE WITHOUT EQQ.— Have the coffee 
heated hot, pour on the water boiling hot, cover closely, let it stand 5 
minutes, strain it through muslin (having it wrung out of hot water) 
into the coffee i^ot (having that heated); cover it, set it on tliB stove 
and heat a moment (not boil) ^nd serve. Have the milk thoroughly 
hot. The coffee may be heated in a pan or pitcher if more conven- 
ient. 

BOILED COFFEE WITHOUT EGG— Scald the coffee pot; put 
in the coff'ee, jDour on the water boiling hot, stir it well, bring it to a 
boil, move it to the back of the range keeping it hot, tcithout further 
boiling; add ^ cup of cold water, let stand 5 minutes, turn out 1 cup 
coffee, pour back into the pot, do the same again, let stand 5 minutes 



560 BEVERAGES 

to settle, and serve. Boiled coffee has a different flavor from the 
filtered, and many prefer it. 

BOILED COFFEE WITH EQQ.— Scald the coffee pot; put in 
the coffee and egg shell, (or the egg or isinglass if they are used 
instead); add the water, boiling hot, cover closely, and boil 3 to 5 
minutes —no more. Set where it will keep hot but not boil; pour in 
I cup of cold water; pour out 1 cup of coffee to clear the spout, and 
pour it back again; let stand 10 minutes, and serve. 

FRENCH COFFEE WITH COLD WATER.— Heat the coffee, 
put it in the filter of a French coffee pot or biggin, add a very little 
cold water, a tablespoon at a time; let it stand 80 to 60 minutes, then 
pour in the balance of the water slowly, a cupful at a time; when it 
has all filtered through turn it out, and pour it through the filter 
again; cover it tightly, and when ready to serve bring it just to a 
boil (never boil it) and serve immediately. Coffee can be made thus 
at your leisure, and not heated until ready to serve it. 

FRENCH COFFEE WITH BOILING WATER.— Heat the cof- 
fee, put it into the filter of the biggin, and jDour on just enough 
hoiling water to moisten it well; let stand 5 minutes, and pour on the 
balance of the water slowly, a cupful at a time, and wait 2 or 3 min- 
utes between each cup; if wanted very strong turn out the coffee and 
j)our it through the filter again; serve at once. This coffee should 
never boil; the best way to avoid this is to set the coffee pot in a pan 
of boiling water while the water is being filtered through the coffee. 

COFFEE BY A SIMPLE METHOD.— Heat the coffee and tie it in 
a muslin bag; scald the coffee pot, suspend the bag in it, pour on the 
water hoil'mg hoi (be sure it covers the bag), let it stand 10 minutes 
where it will keep hot but not boil, and serve. This answers some- 
what the same purpose as the French biggin, but can be used by 
those who do not have one. 

STEAMED COFFFE — This can be made in a double boiler 
kept for the purpose, or by setting the coffee pot in a pan of boiling 
water; steam 20 minutes, then strain it into a heated coffee pot, and 
serve. 

COFFEE WITH COLD WATER.— Let the coffee and water 
stand all night in an earthen or china pot, closely covered; in the 
morning bring to the boiling point merely, and serve. No clearing 
or straining is needed. 

CAFE NOIR — This is a French term meaning literally "black 
coffee." It can be made like other coffee, but very strong, using 



BEVERAGES 561 

twice as much coffee (2 tablespoons) for each cup of water. It is 
served in small cups with sugar, but no milk or cream are served 
with it. 

CAFE AU LAIT. — This is a French term meaning "coffee and 
milk." It is simply very strong coffee, to which is added a large 
proportion of good hot milk — half and half being the proportions. 
Sweeten to taste. 

VIENNA COFFEE.— This consists simply in adding to each 
cup of coffee 3 tablespoons of whipped cream. Equal parts of 
whipped cream and beaten white of egg are sometimes used. 

ICED COFFEE. — Make a quart of extra strong coffee and let it 
get cold; beat 2 eggs very light, stir into them 2 cups milk and 4 
tablespoons cream; sweeten to taste, and stand in the refrigerator 5 
or 6 hours. Serve with a lump of ice in the pitcher. If no refriger- 
ator is at hand the pitcher can be set for 1 hour in a pail of ice and 
salt (§ ice to ^ salt); take care that it does not freeze. Iced tea can 
be cooled the same way. 

CARAMEL COFFEE — Use caramel made as directed for "Pre- 
pared Caramel" in the article on "Colors for Frosting, etc.," in the 
chapter on "Cake." Add 1 teaspoon of good ground coffee for each -| 
cup of the caramel; let it boil for a minute, strain it, and add an 
equal amount of hot milk, or milk and cream. Children like it; so 
do " children of a larger growth." 

SUBSTITUTES FOR COFFEE.— Take 4 cups unground ivheat 
or rye, add | cup molasses, rub all together with your hands, and 
brown it in the oven like genuine coffee. When used, grind and put 
it in a muslin bag and boil it in a cofPee pot; very good and slightly 
nutritious. If desired, it can be mixed with genuine coffee when 
used. 

Oatmeal, ground barley or graham flour can be browned and used 
also. In using them allow 1 tablespoon to a cuj) of water; moisten it 
with a little cold water, pour on the water boiling hot, and let stand 
10 minutes. 

Corn Coffee. — Roasted sweet corn, browned without popping or 
hardening, is easily broken in a mortar, and makes a delicious drink 
for invalids, children, and those who cannot drink caffee. Try it. 

Cornmeal can also be roasted brown and used; boil 5 minutes and 
strain; a little salt can be added to improve the flavor. 

These snbfititutet: for coffee contain no caffeine, nor anything similar to it. so 
that they possess no power as sfimxiants. Their value is simply that of hot wiiter 
containing a little flavoring and nourishment, which is increased by the milk and 
sugar used. 

36 



562 



BEVERAGES 




Coffee. — The origin of the use of cofTee is involved in 
obscurity. It was not known to the Greeks and Romans. It 
was introduced into Europe in the 17th century. Mocha is an 
Arabian coffee. The brands from Central and South America 
were formerly considered inferior, but some of the best coffees 
now come from tliose regions. Maracaibo is often sold for Java, 
and is quite as good. Unground coffee is adulterated very little, 
but the ground coffee is almost universally adulterated. 

"Coffee," says Prof. Johnstone, "exhilarates, arouses and 
keeps awake; it counteracts the stupor occasioned by fatigue, by 
disease, or opium. It allays hunger to a certain extent; it gives 
to the weary increased strength and vigor, and it imparts a feel- 
ing of comfort and repose." It appears to make the brain more 
active, and the demand for food less, by checking the change and vurta^a. 

waste of the body. Taken in excess, it produces tremors and 
contractions of the muscles, and an exhilaration somewhat like that of alcohol. It 
is not so stimulating as tea, and it does not increase the perspiration so much. It 
owes its stimulating effect to the caffeine and aromatic oils. It contains only 
about 1% of caffeine and 4:% of tannin, and is therefore less injurious than tea to the 
coatings of the stomach. 

Coffee loses 20 to '60% in roasting, but the roasting accomplishes several things. 
It makes it brittle and easily ground; the aromatic properties are developed as 
previously explained; the tannin and other properties are rendered partly soluble 
in water, and its sugar is all converted into caramel; this gives color and part of 
the flavor to the coffee. 

The color and flavor may be increased by mixing a little caramel with the 
ground coffee, a fact which many people do not understand. 

Mixing Coffee. — Coffee can be mixed to obtain different flavors. Rio and San- 
tas are strong, while Java, Mocha, and Maracaibo are mild coffees. A rich, deli- 
cate flavored coffee is obtained by using I3 Java and % Mocha, and that is proba- 
bly the most ])opular mixture. Some mix them half and half. For a strong cof- 
fee use Rio alone, or temper it as desired by mixing some of the milder brands 
with it. Some people like equal parts of Rio, Mocha and Java. 

Keeping Coffee. — Green coffee, that is the unroasted bean, not only does not lose 
its flavor but actually improves by keeping for 2 or 3 years. It can advanta- 
geously be bought by the sack when the market is favorable, and it should be of a 
yellowish or brownish shade and well seasoned. Store it in a dry, cool place. 
As coffee readily absorbs bad odors nothing strongly odorous should be stored 
near it; much coffee has thus been ruined. 

Chicoky. — This is prepared by cutting the roots of the 
chicory plant {Cicoriinn. intibus) into small pieces and roast- 
ing them, much as coffee is roasted. It was first mixed with 
coffee l)y the Dutch, but is now used in all countries. While 
it is properly an adulteration, it is not deleterious. It does 
not possess any trace of the alkaloid caffeine, which is one 
of the peculiar properties of coffee, but it does possess an 
aromatic oil, starch, sugar (which will turn to caramel in 
roasting) nitrogenous substances and salts. It is used by 
some people as an independent beverage. It will give body, ohiooky. 

color and liitterness to coffee, and possibly modify its stim- 
ulant effect by acting as a diuretic, sedative and tonic. Some housekeepers add 
chicory to their coffee, using 1 to 4 oz. of chicory to a pound of coffee. Unfortu- 
nately, chicory is often adulterated, as well as coffee. 

CHOCOLATE. 
Whipped Cream is best to serve with chocolate. It can be whipped 
with a Dover egg beater, and ^ pint is enongh for a dozen cups. 

TO MAKE CHOCOLATE.— Put the grated chocolate in a sauce- 
pan and dissolve it in a very little boiling water; then add the de- 
sired amount of cold milk, bring it slowly to a boil, and it is ready to 
serve. 




BEVERAGES 563 

The Spaniards mix chocolate so thick that a spoon can stand up in it. Choc- 
olate is much improved by frosting, but to do this properly a French or Italian 
chocolatiere is required, with a whisk passed through the lid so that it can be 
whisked while coming to the boil. 

CHOCOLATE "MAILLARD'S STYLE."— Put into a saucepan 
I cup of sugar, a tablespoon of salt, 1 cup grated chocolate aud 1 cuj) 
boiling water and stir until smooth; then add 1 cup boiling water 
and 2 cups boiling milk and boil 1 minute only. In ^ cup of cold 
milk dissolve 1 level teaspoon of corn starch ; stir it in, boil 1 minute 
%ore, take from the fire, add 1 teaspoon of vanilla flavor, and serve. 
The. salt, corn-starch and vanilla add to its richness and flavor. 

CHOCOLATE WITH EGG.— Allow for each person 1 large ta- 
blespoon of grated chocolate; put it in a sauce=pan and slowly add 
boiling water, stirring and boiling a little until it thickens ; then pour 
in enough milk to cool it, sweeten with sugar, and stir in 1 or 2 eggs 
well beaten, using more or less as desired; make up the desired quan- 
tity by adding milk, or milk and water, and simmer, not boil, 10 
minutes; flavor with vanilla and serve. If allowed to boil afte?' add- 
ing the eggs they will become "curdled." 

CHOCA. — This is cafd cm lait and chocolate mixed in equal 
quantities. Many people like it for breakfast. 

COCOA. 

TO MAKE COCOA.— To ^ gallon of water add 1 gill of broken 
cocoa, and let it boil gently until reduced | (about 2 hours); equal 
parts of shells and cocoa can be used if preferred. If it cools and 
the fat is taken from the surface, and it is then heated again, it will 
digest more easily. Serve with cream, or scalded milk, and sugar. 
Cocoa can be flavored by adding a little vanilla extract if desired. 
In Spain, cloves, cinnamon and musk are also used to flavor it. 

TO USE PREPARED COCOA.— Allow 2 teaspoons to a cup; 
add enough cold milk to form a smooth paste, then add equal parts 
boiling milk and boiling water, and stir all together well. There are 
many preparations of cocoa, some of which are recommended for 
preparation at the table, but all cocoa is better for being boiled 1 or 
2 minutes. Use hot milk to dilute it. 

COCOA SHELLS.— In use allow i cup of the shells to 1 cup of 
water; pour on the water boiling hot and let them simmer gently 3 or 
4 hours; as the water boils away add more; then strain, and serve. 
Sugar and cream, or hot milk, goes with it, 



564 



BEVERAGES 




COCOA BEAN. 



ICED COCOA. — Make the cocoa in the usual way, and for each 2 
cups beat in -| cup whipped cream; sweeten to taste, let stand till 
cold, and serve in glasses containing a little chipped ice. 

Cocoa is made from the seeds of the Theobromo cacao, a small tree which 
grows ill Central aud South America and the West Indies. (Theobromo means lit- 
erally '■ food of the Gods," a name given it by Linnaeus who was excessively fond 
of chocolate). The fruit is shaped something like a cu- 
cumber; the outside skin is thick, the pulp sweet and 
palatable; the seeds are much like almonds, with a thiu 
skin, and the kernel is dark, bitter, oily and aromatic. 

Cocoa ftheKs are the husks or shells. They contain 
little fat, but have more astringent matter than the seeds. 
They make a pleasant and wholesome drink, not stimu- 
lating, and well suited to nervous invalids and children. 
They need long boiling. An inferior cocoa is sometimes 
made by grinding the shells with the seeds. 

Cocoa nibs are the seeds freed from the husks, roast- 
ed and cracked, but not ground, although sonie of the fat 
is usually removed. Prepared cocoa is made by grind- 
ing the kernel to powder, removing some of the fat, and 
adding a certain amount of sugar and starch. Some of 
the husk is ground and added to many of the cheaper cocoas, as an adulteration. 

The cocoa bean contains about 1% of theobromine, which is an alkaloid much 
like caffeine and theine; about 50$^ of fat; from life to 185? of nitrogenous substance, 
^2 of which is soluble in water; i^ of starch, and about 7% of an astringent princi- 
ple much like tannin. 

Chocolate is made from cocoa nibs ground into a paste by machinery, mixed 
with sugar, flavored, and pressed into molds of various shapes. It is the most con- 
venient and nutritious way of preparing cocoa. 
It does not stimulate the nervous system as much 
as tea and coffee do, and it is food as well as drink, 
satisfying hunger to some extent. Delicate stom- 
achs will digest it more readily if the oily scum is 
removed from the surface after it is boiled, but for 
healthy beople the scum is nutritious and need not 
be removed. 

Coca is the dried leaf of the ErythroxyJon Co- 
ca, a i^lant resembling the blackthorn. It is used 
by the inhabitants of Peru and Bolivia, who chew 
the leaves and make an infusion of them. It is es- 
timated that 8,000.000 people use it, but it is little 
used in this country, except by a few cyclists or 
pedestrians. It derives its special properties from 
the alkaloid cocaine. It is a powerful stimulant to 
the nervous system and enables fatigue to be borne 
more easily for a time, but there is some uncer- 
tainty about the exact effects of its continued use. 

Mate, or Paraguay Tea is prepared from the 
Brazillian holly. It is used in Paraguay and Bra- 
zil, but very little in this country. It contains 1 or 
2% of theine, about 10^ of tannin, some aromatic oil, and gluten. It acts mainly 
on the nervous system, but also affects the digestive system. It is not suitable for 
general consumption, and is very injurious if habitually used. 

MISCELLANEOUS BEVERAGES. 
APPLE WATER — Take tart apples, quarter and core; add | their 
weight of sugar, cover with water, and simmer till tender; strain 
through a jelly bag and cool. Put pounded ice in the glass when 
you drink it. 




MATE OR PARAGUAY TEA. 



BEVERAGES 565 

BLACKBERRY NECTAR.— Crush the berries, add an equal 
amount of water, and 1 teasj^oon orange juice and 1 sliced lemon to 
each 2 quarts; let stand 4 hours, strain through flannel, and to 1 
quart of juice add 1 cup sugar. Kee^i on ice till ready to serve. 

CHERRY ACID. — Dissolve 3 oz. citric acid in 1 quart water; 
pour it on a bowl of cherries and let stand 6 or 8 hours; strain off the 
juice, pour it over another bowl of cherries and let stand the same 
time; strain", and to each pint of jviice add 1 pint sugar, boil, skim, 
bottle, and cork while hot. 

COCOANUT BEVERAGE.— Break 2 cocoanuts, saving the milk 
carefully; grate the cocoanuts, add them to the milk and also 4 pints 
water; put in a sauce-pan, and boil 5 minutes, stirring with a 
wooden spoon continually to prevent burning (it will ruin it to 
burn); then strain, add | lb. powdered sugar, and mix well. Ice it 
and serve. 

CREAM SODA.— Boil together, for 3 or 4 minutes, 1-| quarts 
water, 4i cups sugar, the juice of 1 lemon, and 2 oz. tartaric acid; 
when cold, add the welhbeaten whites of 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons of 
flour blended in | cup cold water; flavor to taste, bottle, and keep 
cool. To use, put 2 tablespoons in | tumbler of water, add a salt- 
spoon of soda, and drink when it effervesces. 

CURRANT SHRUB — Mash the currants, strain, and to each 
pint of juice add 1 i^int sugar, boil 10 minutes, and bottle when cold. 
If used at once it need not be boiled. 

CURRANT WATER— To 2 cups red currant juice add ^ cup 
raspberry juice, 2 cups white sugar, and 2 pints water. 

GRAPE JUICE AND ALMONDS.— Take 6 oz. sweet almonds; 
blanch and ixnind in a mortar, working in 2 cups grape juice and 1-J- 
cups white sugar; then add 1|- (piarts water, and when all are dis- 
solved, filter it. Ice when used. 

GRAPE WATER — Squeeze 4 lbs. grapes through a cdarse cloth, 
and add \ cup of white sugar and 1 pint water to the juice. Serve 
with crushed ice in the glass. 

JELLY BEVERAGES — Almost any jelly dissolved in ice water 
and sweetened to taste makes a pleasant drink. Most summer 
drinks are improved by adding a little orange juice. 

KOUMISS. — Take 6 cufts sweet milk and 3 tablesi^oons of sugar; 
ad I 2 tablespoons of yeast and set in a warm place for a few hours 
until it ferments and the bubbles rise all over the top; then stir well 




56G iBEVERAGE^ 

for 3 minutes, bottle and fasten the corks. Keep cold (on ice is the 
best) and use at once on being opened, as it soon spoils on exposure 
to the air. It can be used in 2 days, but it is better after 1 week. It 
will keep for months if kept cold. 

GINGER BEVERAGE. — To 4 cups water add 1 scant cup vine- 
gar, 3 largo tablespoons sugar, and 2 teaspoons sifted ginger. Use 
lemon instead of vinegar if preferred. (2) Another recipe is 4 cuf)s 
milk, 4 cups water, and 1 tables^Doon of ginger. Or (3) take -J cup 
of vinegar, 1 cup sugar, 2 teaspoons ginger; stir thoroughly together, 
put it in a quart pitcher and fill it with water. 

Ginger is the root of a plant deriving its name from the 
mountain Ginger, in Hindoostan, of which it is a native. It 
now comes chiefly from the East and West Indies. It is dug up 
in January or February, scraped, washed, and carefully dried. 
It contains starch, gum, an acid resin which gives its hot taste, 
and a volatile oil which gives its odor. The best comes from 
Jamaica. There are 2 kinds — white and black; white is con- 
sidered superior. It is aromatic, stimulant, and in hot weather 
is valuable as a medicine. It is less heating to the system than 
might be expected from its taste. 

GOOSEBERRY SHRUB.— Take green gooseber- 
ries, pour on boiling water to cover, let stand till cool ginger. 
with a cloth spread over the jar; strain off the juice, heat it, and 
pour on again; then strain, and to each pint of juice add 1 pint 
sugar; boil, skim and bottle. 

LEMONADE. — Squeeze the juice from lemons, add a little of the 
thin yellow rind, with water, and sugar enough to sweeten to taste. 

Adding ripe strawberries, mashed, is a great improvement to 
lemonade. So also is adding either grated or sliced pineapple. 
Remember in using either lemon or orange peel that the thin yellow 
rind (called zest) is all that is used; the white part of the rind is 
bitter and injurious. Boiling water is sometimes poured over the 
thin yellow rind and allowed to stand a while; then the lemon juice, 
water and sugar are added. 

Coffee Lemonade. — Make coffee as for breakfast; when cold, strain 
and use it instead of water in making lemonade. It is healthful and 
refreshing in hot weather. 

Effervescing Lemonade. — Into 2 cups granulated sugar work 30 drops 
of oil of lemon and sift; then sift in 2| oz. tartaric acid, and 2^ oz. 
carbonate of soda; keep dry in air tight bottles. To use, stir 2 table- 
spoons into a glass of ice water. 

Invalid's Lemonade. — Into a glass of water put a few drops lemon 
extract, and 2 tablespoons of lemon sugar. It can be made when 
lemons are not attainable. 



BEVERAGES 



567 




Milk Lemonade. — In 4 cups l)oiliii£^ water dissolve 3 cups white 
sugar; add 3 cups milk and 1 cup lemon juice. 

Portable Lemonade. — Mix thoroughly 6 oz. powdered sugar, 1 oz. 
powdered tartaric acid, and 1 drachm essence of lemon; dry thor- 
oughly, divide into 24 parts and wrap each one in paper; each pow- 
der will make a nice glass of lemonade, and can be used at any time. 

Lemon belongs to the citrus family, and is a native to 
the north of India. It was unknown to the ancient Greeks 
and Romans, and was introduced into Europe during the 
crusades. It is now widely naturalized. Its acidity is due 
to the presence of citric and malic acid in the juice. Ir also 
contains 8 or 4^ of gum and sugar, and some albumenous 
matter, and a little potash and phosphoric acid. Lemons 
with thick rough skins are almost certain to be dry and 
spongy, so clu)ose those with thin, smooth skins. Persons 
of bilious and sanguine temperaments may freely drink the 
lemonade made from its juice, but those with irritable 
stomachs should avoid it on account of its acid and there- 
fore irritating qualities. 

VINEGAR WATER.— A little vinegar put ^™^^- 

into cold water, and then sweetened to taste, makes a pleasant bever- 
age in hot weather. It is more refreshing and healthier than to 
drink large quantities of clear water. (It is the presence of the 
citric acid in lemons which makes lemonade so refreshing and 
healthful, and the acetic acid in vinegar serves much the same 
purpose ) . 

MEAD. — Take fi cups sugar, 2 cups molasses, ^ lb. tartaric acid; 
pour on 3 pints boiling water, stir till dissolved, let cool, and add 1 
spoonful essence of sassafras, or flavor w^ith fruit juices; then bottle 
for use. To serve, put 2 tablespoons into a tumbler | full of ice 
water, add ^ teaspoon of soda, stir it, and drink while foaming. 

OATMEAL DRINK.— (1) Dissolve ^ cup of oatmeal in a jug of 
water; let settle, and drink cold. (2) Take ^ lb. sugar, | a lemon, 
sliced small, and | lb. fine oatmeal; mix them with a little warm 
water first, and then pour on 4 quarts boiling water; stir well 
together, let settle, and use cold. Any other flavoring can be used 
instead of the lemon if desired. (3) Mix together gradually, in 4 
quarts of boiling water, ^ lb. sugar, | lb. fine oatmeal, and 4 oz. cocoa. 
Use when cold. 

About Summer Drinks. — In hot weather there is nothing which quenches the 
thirst better, or which is more healthful and refreshing than oatmeal drinks. If 
laboring men, harvest hands, etc., would use them more it would be a great advan- 
tage to them. For heavy work they are far better than either beer, cider or 
spirits. Boil the oatmeal if possible; if not mix it with cold water. When heavy 
work is to be done without time to stop and eat, make it stronger. It can be used 
cold in summer and hot in winter. Cold coffee is thirst quenching; so is cold tea, 
but neither equals oatmeal. Cocoa is refreshing and nourishing. 



568 BEVERAGES 

ORANGEADE. — (1) In 1 cup boiling water infuse the thin yel- 
low rind of 2 oranges; then add | cup of sugar and the juice of 6 
oranges; ice before serving. (2) Take 1 lemon and 4 oranges, slice 
crossways, put into an earthen jug, add 4 cups l:)oiling water, and let 
stand 1 hour, covered; then pour off, and ice before serving. 

ORG E ATE. — Blanch and pound in a mortar ^ lb. sweet and ^ oz. 
bitter almonds, working in gradually 2 tablespoons of orange flower 
water; then work in ^ pint rose water and 1| cups pure water; strain, 
and add 3 cups simple syrup. Put it in a sauce^pan, boil up 1 min- 
ute, remove at once, and bottle. To use, add 1 tablespoon to a tum- 
bler of ice water, soda, or seltzer M-ater. 

PINEAPPLE BEVERAGE.— Take 1 pineapple, peel, slice, and 
pound to a pulp. Take 2 cups water, add | lb. sugar, boil, skim, and 
pour it hot on the pineapple pulp; add the juice of a lemon, and let 
stand 2 hours covered; then filter through cloth, and add 2 pints cold 
water. Ice when served. 

PERSIAN BEVERAGE.— Take 1 cup rose-water, 4 tablespoons 
of orange flower water, 2 cups strawberry juice, and 2 cups simple 
syrup; mix well together. Ice it when served. 

RASPBERRY ACID. — In 4 pints water dissolve 3 oz. tartaric 
acid; pour it over 4 quarts raspberries and let stand 24 hours; strain 
without pressing, and to each pint of juice add 1| lbs. of sugar; stir 
till it dissolves, let stanfl 48 hours; bottle and seal. To use, put a 
little into water. 

RASPBERRY WATER. — Take 2 cups raspberry juice, 1 cup red 
currant juice, 2 cups sugar, 2 i^ints water; mix well. 

RED RASPBERRY SHRUB.— Pickle the raspberries in white 
wine vinegar for 1 week; strain through a jelly bag, and to each pint 
of juice allow 1 i^int sugar; boil gently | hour, and bottle. Use 2 or 
3 tablespoons of the shrub to a glass of water. 

Raspberry Shrub No. 2. — On 3 quarts fresh berries x^our 4 cups 
cider vinegar; let stand 1 day, strain, and pour the juice on 3 quarts 
fresh berries; let stand 24 hours, strain, and to each pint of juice add 
1 pint sugar; boil gently 10 minutes, skim, 
and bottle when cold. Use 2 or 3 table- 
spoons to a glass of water. 

Strawberry Shrub is made the same way. 

TAMARIND WATER. Take 2 oz. 
tamarinds, 1^ cups raisins, 1 cup sugar 
(scant); boil them in 1 gallon of water till tamarind. 

it is reduced to 3 quarts; strain and cool. 




BEVERAGES 569 

STRAWBERRY ACID.— In 2 pints water dissolve 2 oz. citric 
acid; pour it on 4 quarts ripe strawberries, let stand 24 hours; strain 
without pressing, and to each pint of juice add 1| lbs. sugar; boil 
10 minutes, let stand 3 days, and bottle. To use, put a little into 
water. 

STRAWBERRY WATER.— Take 1 lb. ripe strawberries and 1 
cup sugar; mash them together and add 1 cup cold water. Strain 
and add the juice of 1 lemon. 

TISANE — Take 2 oz. dates, figs or prunes, cut them up, add 5 
cups water and boil 1 hour; strain through cloth and serve ice cold. 
Dilute with cold water if desired. 

TOMATO BEVERAGE — Steam the tomatoes, mash them, and 
strain through cheese cloth; add | lb. sugar to each quart of juice 
and let stand 8 or 10 days; then drain the liquor from the settlings, 
bottle, and cork tight. It improves with age. To use, add 1 or 2 
tablespoons to the pint of water, and sweeten to taste. A little lemon 
juice will improve it. 

TUTTI FRUTTI. — Take 1 tablespoon mashed strawberries, 1 
peach, cut fine, 1 tablesj)oon i^ineapple, cut fine, the juice of | a 
lemon, 1 tablespoon of sugar; mix well, strain through a jelly bag, 
mix with pounded ice and pour on water. 

CIDER — To imj)rove cider, strain it through flannel while new 
and sweet, and put into each barrel ^ lb. white sugar, and suspend 
a bag of raisins in it. If acidity appears in cider, add a little bak- 
ing soda, which neutralizes the acid, but add it on the first appear- 
ance of acidity. If cider turns black it is caused by the presence of 
oxide of iron which turns dark on exposure to the air; adding a little 
tartaric acid will usually correct it. 

QINQER POP. — Infuse 8 oz. bruised root ginger in 5 gallons 
boiling water; add 4 lbs. sugar, and 2 oz. cream of tartar, a^id 1 oz. 
tartaric acid; when lukewarm^ strain, add 1 quart yeast, and 1 bot- 
tle lemon essence to flavor; let stand over night and bottle. 

LEMON BEER.— Into 2 gallons of boiling water put 2 lbs. sugar, 
the thin yellow peel of 2 lemons, and 1 oz. bruised ginger; when 
lukewarm add ^ pint yeast; let stand over night, or a little longer, to 
ferment, and bottle. 

MILK BEER — Into 4 cups water put | cup of buttermilk and 
3 tablespoons of sugar, and let it stand in a warm place 10 hours; 
then pour from 1 vessel to another until smooth; bottle and let stand 
a day. Serve ice cold. 



570 



SYRUPS 



SPRUCE BEER. — Into 4 gallons of water put 3 lbs. sugar, | oz. 
essence of spruce, a little zest of lemon, 1 oz. ginger, and 
yeast; let stand 24 hours, and bottle. 



I pint of 



SYRUPS. 

Fruit syrups are made by adding enough sugar to fruit juices 
to preserve them. Fine flavored fruit should be used, because syrup 
of fine flavor cannot be made from fruit lacking flavor. Decayed fruit 
also will affect the flavor of the syrup, and should not be used. If 
fruit juice is allowed to stand 2 or 3 days until fermentation begins, 
it will change the pectose it contains so that it will not jelly, and 
jellying is not desired M'ith fruit syrups. They should be made in 
granite, porcelain or aluminum kettles, as the acids the fruit juices 
contain will act on other metals and change and injure the c<jlor of 
the syrups, while in metals like brass, tin, and copper they will also 
develop poisonous compounds. If boiled hard, or heated too hot, it 
will injure the flavor and color of the syrups. A double boiler is the 
best to use to prevent this. Stir syrups with a wooden spoon. 

Fruit syrups can be used when fruits are out of season, and they 
not only make delicious drinks, but they can also be used for pud- 
dings, water ices and ice creams. They are best kept in a dark, dry 
and cool place. 

SIMPLE SYRUP.— Take 2 quarts water and 
7 lbs. white sugar; heat gently until dissolved, 
and strain 

BARBERRY SYRUP— Take good ripe bar- 
berries, strip them, and put them in a porcelain 
kettle with water enough to cover them; let them 
simmer gently, but do not boil or burn them, and 
when done squeeze out and strain the juice; 
allow 1 quart sugar to 1 pint of juice and set the 
pitcher holding them into a pan of boiling 
water until the sugar is dissolved; then bottle it. 

BLACKBERRY SYRUP.-Take i gallon black- 
berry juice, add 4 cups white sugar (heaping), -| oz. each of allspice, 
cinnamon and nutmeg, and ^ oz. cloves; pulverize the spice, boil all 
for ^ hour, strain, and when cold, bottle and cork closely, 

CHERRY SYRUP. — Bruise 6 lbs. cherries with the stones in 
(breaking them); add 3 cups hot water and boil ^ hour, strain 




BAEBEKKIES. 




SYRUPS 571 

through a jelly bag, add 3 lbs. sugar, and boil until it will sink to 
the bottom of a cup of water when dropped from a spoon; then turn 
into jelly cups and cover with paper dipped in the white of egg. 
To use for a drink, put a spoonful in a glass of water, let stand 10 
minutes, stir it, and fill with pounded ice if you have it. 

CURRANT SYRUP.— Mash the currants, cover them over, and 
let them stand 3 or 4 days to ferment; then strain through a jelly 
bag, and allow 2 lbs. sugar to each pint of 
juice; dissolve the sugar slowly (in a fa- "^ ~-\ ' A 

rina=boiler is best, as there is no danger ^-a^ ^ ) 

of its burning), and then let it become ^^^ j .rH.'^ 
cold, put it in small bottles, filling them 
full, seal tightly and put away. ^^ h^__ ^ ''^ 

Raspberry Syrup can be. made the same 
way. 

The Raspbebry in some form is found 
throughout Europe and America. There are 2 
kinds — the red and white, the former being most 
common. The juice is very wholesome and valu- baspbebky. 

able to people of a nervous or bilious tempera- 
ment. 

LEMON SYRUP. — In a porcelain pan dissolve 2 lbs. white 
sugar and 2 cups cold water, and let it boil 2 minutes; then add the 
juice of 4 lemons, and \ oz. tartaric acid; after it has cooled a little 
add \ teaspoon lemon essence. When quite cold, bottle it. 

Lemon Syrup No. 2. — Rub the yellow rind of 6 lemons with 1 lb. 
lump sugar; moisten the sugar with as much water as it will absorb, 
and boil it to a clear syrup; to this (without letting it boil any more) 
add the juice of 1 doz. lemons, stirring it beside the fire; bottle at 
once, and cork when cold. 

Lemon Syrup No. 3. — Mix 4 cups water and 2 lbs. sugar, and boil 
till clear; when cool, add 1 teaspoon essence of lemon and 1 oz. cit- 
ric acid, and bottle when cold. 

ORANGE SYRUP. — Select fine, ripe oranges, extract the juice, 
and to each pint add 1 pint sugar; boil gently 10 minutes, skim, 
and bottle when cold. An excellent flavor for sauces, as well as a 
delightful drink. 

ROSE SYRUP. — Take \ lb. rose leaves, pour on 1 pint of hoil- 
ing water and let stand till next day; strain through muslin add 2 
lbs. sugar, and heat in a double boiler until the sugar is dissolved; let 
it cool, and bottle when cold. 



572 



SYRUPS 




SAESAPARILLA. 



For Violet Syrup use violets in like manner, but do not allow the 
calyx or stalks to be mixed, with the leaves. 

SARSAPARILLA SYRUP Into 5 

quarts of water put ^ lb. Spanish sarsapa- 
rilla, and boil until it is reduced to 2 
quarts; add 2^ oz. tartaric acid and 4 lbs. 
sugar; mix, boil 8 minutes and bottle. To 
use, put 2 tablespoons in a glass of water, 
add a little soda, and drink when it effer- 
vesces. 

Saksapaeilla is a native of Central America. 
There are several varieties. The roots appear in 
bundles 12 to 18 inches long, and 4 or .5 in breadth. 
The taste when chewed is bitter and even acid. It 
has been used as a remedy in a great variety 

of diseases and in certain broken down conditions of health it appears to do much 
good. 

STRAWBERRY SYRUP — Wash the strawberries, and strain 
through a jelly bag; prepare a syrup and bring it to the " soft ball 
degree " as directed in " Candy Making," and to each pint of the 
syrup add 1 pint of the strawberry juice; bring it to a boil, skim, and 
remove from the fire. Bottle and seal when cold. 

Pineapple Syrup can be prepared by gradually adding strained 
pineapple juice to the syrup, instead of the strawberry juice, and 
finishing the same way. 

TOMATO SYRUP. — Take good ripe tomatoes, squeeze out the 
juice, and to each pint of juice add ^ lb. sugar; bottle and set away. 
No alcohol is needed to preserve it. It will keep for years, makes 
a delightful beverage for the sick, and will resemble pure wine in 
flavor. 

VANILLA SYRUP. — Take 2 qurf^ts of simple syruiD, into some 
of it rub ^ oz. citric acid, add | oz. fluid extract of vanilla, and mix 
all; then bottle. 

WINTERGREEN SYRUP.— To 2| quarts of simple syrup 
add 25 drops oil of wintergreen, and burnt sugar enough to color- it. 

ARTIFICIAL HONEY.— (1) Take 10 lbs. good brown sugar, 
add 4 lbs. water and gradually bring it to a boil, skimming it well. 
When it has become cooled, add 2 lbs. bee's honey and 8 drops 
of peppermint. A better article can be made with white sugar in- 
stead of brown, with 1 lb. less of water and 1 lb. more of sugar. 




INVALID COOKERY. 

HILE in robust health the appetite is undoubtedly an ad- 
mirable guide in the choice of foods, but when debility 
and disease are present, intelligent knowledge of the 
properties of ditferent foods is necessary, and experience 
should guide in administering them. Ignorance in a sickroom is 
most deplorable, even when accompanied by the utmost family 
afPection. In many disorders a knowledge of dietetics is as impor- 
tant as a knowledge of matcrid niedicd, for the action of a medicine 
may be counteracted by unsuitable diet. When a patient is very 
sick the diet is prescribed by the doctor, and his directions in regard 
to the foods to be given should be carried out quite as implicitly as 
they are in giving the medicine, for they are usually quite as im- 
portant. Many persons have a superstitious faith in the cravings of 
the sick and will disobey the doctor to gratify the patient, but this is 
very unwise, as in disease the apjjetite is not a safe guide, and many 
a patient has been seriously injured or even killed by such folly. In 
some cases, (notal)ly after fever) the patient develops a surprising 
appetite which, in the state of his digestive organs, it would be dan- 
gerous to gratify. Other patients will actually sink from exhaustion 
while refusing all food. Still, if a desire for any particular article is 
expressed it would be well to call the doctor's attention to it, as it 
may be a valuable indication of the needs of the system. 

In general it may be said that in feeding the sick 2 objects are 
kei3t in view: (1) to choose the food which will give least work to 
the part of the digestive canal which is most deranged; (2) to com- 
pensate for the waste or drain upon the system. The doctor should 
thoroughly understand the process of digestion, the needs of the sys- 
tem and the composition of foods, and be able to make the selection 
of foods more skilfully than an untrained person. It is sometimes 
thought that when a person is ill he should be coaxed or coerced into 
taking as much food as possible, but it should be remembered that if 
is only the food which is assimilated by the system which is of any 
real benefit to the patient, and to overload the feeble digestive or- 
gans, will impose a burden that will be a positive detriment; there- 
fore in case of serious illness, get directions from the doctor regard- 
ing the quantity as well as kind of food to be given. The prepara- 
tion and cooking of food should be thoroughly understood by a good 

573 



574 INVALID COOKERY 

nurse, so that should any dish be sent from the kitchen imperfectly 
prepared, directions can be given how this can be remedied. 

The conditions of different patients vary so greatly (one may be 
suffering from an acute disease like a fever, while another has some 
lingering chronic disease; one may be suffering from over-work and 
nervous prostration, while another suffers from a lack of exercise, 
and so on) that it is evident that no exact rules can be given which 
will apply to all cases, but the following hints in regard to sickroom 
feeding may be suggestive to our readers. 

(1) Give little food and often. What is eaten with a relish 
does more good than twice as much swallowed with disgust, so do 
not urge a patient to swallow large quantities at once; but remember 
also that very sick people often refuse to swallow anything, though 
they may be actually sinking for want of food. 

(2) Let the food come at stated times and punctually, A con- 
valescent looks forward to meals as the great events of the day, and 
frets and worries if they do not come on time, and a very weak 
patient may faint and flag if instead of an hour it is 20 or 30 minutes 
longer than that, between the times of feeding. If obliged to wait 
long, a patient may lose the desire to eat, and turn against the food 
when brought. 

(3) As a rule, patients should not be awakened to be fed, 
though it may sometimes be necessary to do so. Amateur nurses 
often forget to feed patients in the small hours of the morning, al- 
though at that time the patient's strength is at the lowest ebb. 

(4) When there is no appetite, give such food as affords the 
most nourishment for the least work to the system. When very 
weak, the exertion of eating is quite a tax, so put the greatest 
amount of nourishment in the least space. 

(5) Endeavor to give the food most appreciated by the patient, 
jDrovided it is not injurious. Do not let a convalescent know before 
hand what the bill of fare will be, as surprises are often very pleasing 
to him. 

(6) For a convalescent the food should be as varied as possi- 
ble, for invalids easily tire of the same thing. If the food may not 
be varied the mode of serving it may, and a stray flower or a new 
plate is better than no variety at all, 

(7) For invalids, never make a large quantity of one thing, as 
they seldom require much at a time. Only as much as the patient is 
likely to eat should be taken into the sickroom, and at once remove 
what remains. Never leave food at the bed side or about a sickroom; 
if the patient cannot eat it, take it away and bring it again in 1 or 2 



INVALID COOKERY 575 

hours. As a rule nothing made for an invalid is fit to be used a day 
after it has been prepared, and neither food nor drink, except in 
cases of absolute necessity, should be kept in the invalid's room, as 
the air and temi^erature are apt to hasten decomposition. 

(8) In case of infectious fevers all remains of food should at 
once be burned, and on no account be eaten by another person. The 
nurse should not eat in the sickroom. 

(9) Have every thing tempting in appearance and daintily 
served. See that the linen is spotless, and the prettiest china used 
to hold the sick one's food. Never give an invalid soiled or crumpled 
naj)kins. 

(10) Do not put a very little broth in a very large basin. If a 
limited amount of drink is to be given it is better to put the right 
amount in a small glass than to hand a large glass full, and tell him 
how many swallows to take. Gruel served in a tumbler is more ap- 
petizing than when served in a basin or cup and saucer. It is better 
not to have a cup more than | full, and then it will be less likely to 
spill over. Never have anything spilled into the saucer on handing 
an invalid a cup and saucer. Little things like these tell on the sen- 
sitive nerves of an invalid more than many people think. 

(11) Sponge the hands and face of an invalid carefully before 
serving any m&al. 

(12) If a feeding cup is used, scald it carefully and keep it 
quite clean; warm it before using it for hot food. Keep one for milk, 
and lay that in water; have a separate cup for beef tea and broth. 

When much fever is present very little gastric juice is secreted, 
and therefore at the commencement of a fever there is little craving 
for anything but cold water. All nourishment given in high fever 
should be in fluid form, and it is very doubtful if stai'ch can then be 
converted into sugar. 

Lemonade is agreeable as the acid taste pleases the patient's 
palate, and the sugar passes into the system without digestion or 
making any demands on the powers of the stomach, and various 
other drinks can be given. As the fever subsides the gastric and 
intestinal juices are sufficiently secreted to digest farinaceous foods, 
and the medical man can decide in each case what articles are Uiost- 
sui table. By degrees the patient is able to satisfy his natural ap- 
petite, convalescence becomes more rax^id, and by=and by steaks and 
other food can be eaten again. This would be dietetic regimen. 

The following quotation from Dr. Pavy's " Treatise on Food and 
Dietetics," will be of interest and value. Regarding the foods which 
may be given patients as convalescence advances, he says: " In feb- 



576 INVALID COOKERY 

rile, acute, inflammatory, and other conditions where an absence of 
digestive power prevails the food should be confined to such ar- 
ticles as beef tea, mutton, veal or chicken broth, whey, calf's foot, and 
other kinds of jelly, arrowroot, and such like farinaceous articles, 
barley water, rice, mucilage, gum water, fruit jelly, and the juice of 
fruits, as lemons, oranges, etc., made into drinks. .. .Where a little 
latitude is allowable, the employment of milk and eggs in a fluid 
form may be sanctioned. Bread jellij, which is made by steeping 
bread in boiling water and passing it through a sieve while still hot, 
is also an article that may be used either alone or boiled with milk. 
From this, as circumstances permit, an advance may be made to sub- 
stances which do not throw much work on the stomach, such as rice, 
sago, tapioca, bread and custard puddings, and stale bread and toast 
sopped. Next may be allowed fish.... which should be boiled or 
broiled, and not fried. As power becomes restored, calves' feet, 
chicken, game and butcher's meat — mutton to begin with — may be 
permitted to follow," and so on till ordinary diet is reached. The 
object is to convey fuel foods (carbohydrates) to the system, and 
only enough albumenoids (flesh formers) for repairing the tissues. 
Later, an abundance of albumenoids will be needed to rebuild the 
w^asted tissues. 

In cases of fever, pure milk as the main article of diet is superior to 
anything else, es]3ecially in fevers which cause disturbance of the 
stomach and bowels. Beef tea, which is commonly used, is often 
irritating; but milk is soothing, cooling, and at the same time 
nourishing. A patient who can take milk has a greater chance of 
recovery. With some persons it does not agree, either in sickness or 
health. Mixing \ to | its quantity of lime water with it will help it 
with some. Soda water and milk, or seltzer water and milk, agree 
with some. Boiled milk is more digestible with some, especially hot 
boiled milk. Only in rare cases should the cream be removed. 
The slightest souring is sufficient to make milk disagree with a 
patient. In the early stages of convalescence, hot milk, given often 
in small quantities, with a little toasted bread, or thin gruel added, 
is often excellent. 

In chronic disorders of the stomach and bowels a milk diet is most val- 
uable. It allows the stomach to have almost absolute rest, which is 
often all that is required. As it is already prepared for absorption 
into the system it, in fact, requires no digestion. When milk is con- 
stipating, a little salt s;'i inkled in each glassful will obviate the diflB- 
culty. When it has an opposite effect, a few drops of brandy in each 
tumbler of milk will prevent purgation. If diluted with ^ lime water 



INVALID COOKERY 577 

it will rarely cause biliousness or indigestion. The idea that milk 
should not be eaten with pickles is a mistake, as it is curdled by the 
gastric juice as soon as swallowed, but it is better to be sipped in 
small quantities than taken in large amounts at one time if acids 
accompany it 

Cream can often be taken freely when nothing else will remain 
on the stomach. It should always be fresh, and may be diluted with 
water or given pure. In many chronic diseases it is irreplaceable by 
any other article whatever. With many peojDle it is easier of diges- 
tion than milk, and it seldom disagrees. 

Buttermilk is often very useful. It is almost always allowable in 
sickness, especially in fevers with gastric symtoms. 

Whey is often found useful when every preparation of fresh milk 
disagrees. It is not very nourishing, but is digestible, and is a 
refreshing drink in inflammatory disorders. It is rich in organic 
salts. 

The fats for the system are best obtained by using cream, or butter 
which is next best, rather than fatty meats. Do not have the butter 
made into a sauce, nor melted and soaked into food. When exposed 
to heat (as for buttered toast) it is very likely to disagree with dys- 
peptics and other invalids. All decomposing fats, as a rule, disagree 
with the stomach. The value of cod liver oil in many diseases con- 
sists in the fact that it is the most easily digested of fats, not even 
excepting cream. 

Eggs are nutritious and easily digested when raw or lightly cook- 
ed; they are more digestible if beaten to a froth. Do not submit 
them to a high temperature in cooking, for, as we explain elsewhere, 
that will make them tough and indigestible. The white is least 
likely to disagree with a bilious patient. Use only fresh eggs for 
invalids. Eggs boiled 20 minutes are more digestible than when 
boiled 10; boiled 10 minutes, they become tough and horny, but 
become mealy and dry when cooked 20 minutes, and crumble up 
readily so that they are easily acted on by the gastric juices. Eggs 
in the tough and horny state, are insoluble, and pieces often stay in 
the digestive tract till they decompose, when they emit ammonia and 
sulphuretted hydrogen which are injurious to the system. 

Beef Tea is not a nourishing food, although it used to be so con- 
sidered, and it is now known to have more value as a stimulant than 
as food, properly speaking, and yet many persons jjlace their main 
reliance on it, and think the more a patient swallows the sooner he 
will recover. It should be combined with other foods, or given alter- 
nately when possible, and when containing farinaceous foods it is 
87 • 



578 INVALID COOKERY 

useful. If well made, it is a pleasant and refreshing beverage. A 
healthy man would starve on beef tea alone, and so would an invalid. 

Broth made from cliick,en is more nutritious than that made from 
either beef or mutton, and the sick often find it very useful. The 
meat extracts, (Liebig's and others) are made by boiling lean meat 
in water, and then taking out the insoluble parts and evaporating it 
down. As some of the most nutritious parts of the meat are insol- 
uble in water the extracts contain comparatively little nourishment. 
Their principal value is as stimulants, and they often improve the 
ajDj^etite so that more nutritious foods are craved and digested. 
Other food, therefore, should be given with them. A German took 2 
dogs and gave one meat extract and the other water, and nothing 
else. The one given the extract lost flesh faster and died before the 
one having only water. 

Jelly, Gelatine and Isinglass have excited much discussion. Alone 
they are of little value, and it is a mistake to place much reliance on 
them for nourishment. (See our remarks on this subject under the 
head of "Gelatine Preparations.") 

Toast is valuable for invalids because by toasting i^art of the 
starch is turned into dextrin, which is easily digested. Cut the 
bread thin, hold it a little ways from the fire to dry, then hold it 
closer till it browns. Serve it dry, or buttered lightly, or with hot 
water or milk poured on it. 

Flour, Rice, Barley and Oats are preferable to arrowroot, sago, tapi- 
oca, etc., for nourishment, if suitably prepared. Browned flour we 
mention elsewhere. Rice is valuable for invalids, as it taxes the 
digestive powers very little. It can be roasted like coffee; then cook 
it in the usual way, and serve it with cream. Barley for invalids 
should be thoroughly cooked. Use oatmeal cautiously until the 
digestive powers become strong. Cornmeal because of its fat is val- 
uable for thin, chilly invalids, but cook it ihoroncjhhj. Macaroni is 
nutritious and easily digested. 

Fine Flour Bread is indigestible because it does not readily sej^a- 
rate into particles in the stomach, so as to be readily attacked by the 
digestive fluids. A little fine Indian meal added to fine flour bread 
will obviate this difficulty and cause it to separate quickly. Corn- 
tneal is also loosening in its efPects upon the dige^stive organs, there- 
fore in a relaxed condition of the bowels cornmeal should be avoided. 
Maltine, taken with fiiie flour bread or biscuit, w^ill assist digestion. 
Thorough mastication must be insisted on, for that is the first pro- 
cess of the thorough digestion of all starch foods in which fine flour 
is used, 




INVALID COOKERY 579 

Tea, Coffee and Cocoa. — Tea is often misused 
for invalids. A little tea or coffee restores them 
quite as much as a great deal. As a rule, do not 
give, either after five o'clock in the afternoon. 
Sleeplessness in the early night is generally from 
excitement, and is increased by tea or coffee; in 
the early morning it comes from exhaustion, and 
is relieved by tea. In general, the dry and coated 
tongue prefers tea to coffee. Coffee is a better 
restorative than tea. Cocoa is often recommended beanch of choco- 
instead of tea or coffee, but it has a very different i^ate tkee. 

effect. It is a food rather than a beverage, owing to its fatty charac- 
ter, and for invalids it has no restorative or stimulating effect, and its 
fat is often oppressive to a weak stomach. 

Vegetables. — If an invalid is allowed to eat vegetables, be careful 
to choose only such as are young and tender, perfectly fresh, and 
sufficiently cooked; never send them up half done. All of the 
cabbage tribe are unsuitable, as they are likely to j)roduce flatulence, 
and all the pulses are difficult of digestion. A mealy old potato is 
more digestible than a new one. The best way to use it is to boil, 
remove the inside, mash thoroughly, and use a little salt and cream to 
season it. 

The juice of fruits can be used early in convalescence for jDreparing 
drinks for an invalid, but do not use the pulp. When fruits can be 
used again a baked apple can first be safely eaten. 

The appetite may be unimi3aired or even greatly increased in 
many chronic diseases, like dyspepsia, etc., and in these cases there 
will be danger of yielding to the claims of appetite and overstepping 
the bounds of prudence, so that an undue amount or an unsuitable 
food may be eaten, for which reason it is of great importance for 
such persons to pay attention to some suitable rules for the diet. 

People who are subject to gout and biliousness should remember that 
"bile poison'' and "gout jDoison" are of albumenoid descent, and 
that they follow a diet too jicli in albumenoids like the avenging 
fates. The system requires for the growth and repair of its tissues a 
certain amount of albumenoids, but when an excess is eaten the sur- 
plus is imperfectly oxydized and the blood becomes laden with 
waste, and the result is biliousness or gout. People with a tendency 
to these diseases should eat very sparingly of albumenoid foods like 
meat, eggs, beans, cheese, etc. 

People with a tendency to consumption should eat nutritious and eas- 
ily digested foods, and plenty of fats in their most easily digested 



580 INVALID COOKERY 

form, such as cream, good butter, oil and salads, oatmeal, cornmeal, 
etc., rather than in the indigestible form they assume when mixed 
with starch. 

Diet. — Every year diet plays a larger part in the skilled treatment 
of disease; it is harmless where drugs are dangerous, and it can often 
cure where drugs are useless or worse. There are many diseases 
where the only hope of cure or alleviation lies in rigid abstinence 
from certain kinds of food, and in many common ailments some 
slight change in diet is by far the best remedy. 

A deficiency of oil or fat in the diet develops scrofulous diseases, and 
yet we often hear, when fat meats, cream, butter^ etc., are suggested 
for scrofulous children "O, that will feed the disease," when that is 
likely to be the one thing that would most assist a cure. Fat is heat 
giving, and is naturally craved by most delicate children. The fol- 
lowing is about the proportion of fat in the different grains: Rice 1; 
Rye 1.75; Wheat 2.10; Oats B.30; Indian Corn 5 (the amount of oil 
varies in difPerent varieties of corn, the northern yellow containing 
much more than the southern white). Oatmeal i^orridge and milk 
have, with intelligent i:)eople, long been regarded as the best food for 
the nursery. It owes its chief value for that purpose to its large 
amount of fat, but with many children it does not agree, and corn- 
meal porridge possessing so much fat can often be used in its place 
to advantage. Thoroughly cook it cihrays, as it is only indigestible 
when improperly prepared. The dietary for children from 2h to 7 
years of age, which has been settled by long experiment in various 
children's hospitals is as follows: At least 12 ounces of bread daily; 
1 oz. butter; ^ pint of milk; 2 oz. meat; (5 oz. vegetables; 6 oz. gruel 
or porridge. Rax3idly growing children require an abundance of 
meat (or albumenoids) to build up the rapidly growing system. 

Lime. — In parts of the country where lime does not exist in the 
soil, so that the water is deficient in lime, use -| pint of lime water 
with the mixing for bread every time bread is made. In this way 
cliildren will get the lime whicli is necessary for the jjroper sohdi- 
fying of the bones, and the preservation of the teeth. We explain 
elsewhere how to make lime water. 

When a patient suffers from siclcness and nausea every food should be 
given iced, or as cold as possible, and in the smallest quantities, and 
it will be a good plan to sliiD a little piece of ice into the patient's 
mouth immediately after giving the food. 

Ice for the sickroom can be nicely kept through the night by ty- 
ing a piece of strainer cloth over a large pitcher, with a piece of 
twine around it, leaving a sag in the center on which may be placed 



INVALID COOKERY 581 

1 or 2 pounds of ice — enough to serve the invalid through the night. 
Fold n\) the corners of the cloth over the ice, and cover it again with 
a square of canton flannel, folded 4 double. When a bit of ice is 
needed have at hand a large darning needle and thimble; press stead- 
ily on a corner of the ice with the needle, and flake off pieces as 
needed. The water in the bottom of the pitcher can be poured 
through the strainer without disturbing the ice which is covered with 
the corners of the strainer. 

Fat may be removed from beef tea or broth by letting it get cold, 
when it can all be taken off; or, if in haste, by drawing a piece of 
blotting paper edgeways over the surface, and it will take up the 
fatty particles. In some cases a little fat will be beneficial; in others 
it is better to remove it all. 

MILK SOUP.— Use 1 quart of new milk, 1 saltspoon of salt, 1 
saltsi)oon of powdered cinnamon, 1 teaspo(jn of granulated sugar; 
scald all together for an hour in a pitcher set m a kettle of water; 
then add the welhbeaten yolks of 2 eggs. Good for delicate persons 
and children. 

MUTTON BROTH— Boil slowly about 2 lbs. of lean mutton for 

2 hours; skim it carefully; do not i)ut in too much salt — more can be 
added if needed; a little barley or rice may be added; strain, and take 
off all fat with blotting paper drawn across it. 

CHICKEN BROTH.— Put half the chicken into a small stew:=pan 
with a teaspoon of rice, a little pepper and salt. Cover with cold 
water and boil slowly until the meat falls from the bones; then take 
out the chicken, leave the rice in, and serve. Very nutritious. 

ESSENCE OF MEAT.— Take 1 pound of good lean beef (have 
it free from fat and skin), chop it into small pieces, and put it into a 
glass fruit jar adding 1 tablesj^oon of water, and .screw on the cover; 
set it in cold water, heat gradually to 150° to 160° (don't let it boil), 
and keej) it there 2 hours; the water in the outside kettle must not 
get into the fruit jar; remove all fat with a piece of clean blotting pa- 
per, and add salt and pepi^er to taste. Chicken or any other meat 
can be treated the same way. The pure essence of meat, thus ex- 
tracted, will be received by the most delicate stoniach, and is also 
valuable where considerable nutriment is required in a concentrated 
form. A single tablespoon, can be taken by an invalid, and would 
afford as much sustenance as ^ pint of broth. It becomes a jelly 
when cold, and may in this way be eaten with chicken or game. 



582 INVALID COOKERY 

STEWED BEEF ESSENCE.— Cut -| lb. of beef into bits, salt it, 
and in a few minutes, squeeze it, let it stand ^ hour, heat hot, but do 
not boil it, and serve at once. 

BROILED BEEF JUICE.— Broil i lb. of round steak 1 or 2 min- 
utes on each side, cut in bits, squeeze out the juice, salt and serve. 

BROILED STEAK — Wipe the steak with a clean, wet cloth, 
take a piece of the fat to grease the gridiron, broil over a bright fire 
4 or 5 minutes, turn often, put on a hot plate, season with salt, pep- 
per and a little butter. 

TOASTED MUTTON.— Cut very thin slices from loin of mutton, 
with a sharp knife. Lay each slice on a toasting fork, and toast over 
a clear hot fire. Sprinkle with a little pepper and salt. It may be 
eaten with a thin piece of toast. 

MEAT PATTY — Scrape a piece of lean beef-st6ak with a very 
dull knife, holding it with the left hand, and scraping from you with 
the right. This removes the tender meat fiber and leaves the tough 
connective tissue. Press the former into a thin cake or patty, and 
broil on a toasting'fork over a very hot fire. When done, season to 
taste. Eaten with toast or thin cut bread and butter it makes a very 
delicate dish. The cake or patty, prepared as above, may also be 
fried in a little butter, and will be found very nutritious, and a weak 
stomach will retain it. 

RAW BEEF SANDWICHES.— Scrape fine 2 or .3 tablespoons of 
raw, juicy, tender beef, season slightly with salt and pepper, spread 
on thin slices of bread, and jmi it in a toaster and toast slightly. 

COOKING EQQS FOR INVALIDS.— Put 3 cups of boiling water 
into a skillet and add a cup of sweet milk and a little salt. Have it 
boiling hot, then break the eggs in, and cover and set back where 
they will not boil. Let the eggs remain in until they cook white on 
top, but not hard. 

STEAMED EQQS, — Put 1 or 2 tablespoons of new milk in plain 
patty tins, and break fresh eggs into them; add a little salt and put 
into the steamer and steam until white, over the yolks, but not long 
enough to harden them. Eggs thus prepared are very nice and look 
very inviting. 

BEEF TEA. — Mince a pound of tender beef, free from fat, and 
put it into a covered crockery jar; pour on barely enough cold water 
to cover the meat, and allow it to soak 2 or 3 hours; then place it 
on the stove or in a moderate oven, and let it simmer {doii't let it 



INVALID COOKERY 588 

boil — it should not go above 160°) for 2 or 3 hours longer, adding a 
little water from time to time as it evaporates; strain and season to 
taste. To make it more nourishing a little arrowroot, rice or barley 
may be added. 

Mutton or Veal may be treated the same way. 

If beef tea must be had quickly j^roil a thick piece of steak, turning 
it often, to keep in the juices, as explained elsewhere for broiling; 
then cut it into small pieces, and press it in a lemon squeezer. 

Prof. Liebig's Beef Tea.— A saltspoon of the extract (Liebig's) is 
stirred in a cup of boiling water. Add salt and pepper as desired. 
If too much of the extract is used, which is a common mistake, the 
drink has a bitter taste. Dry toast eaten with it makes a palatable 
dish. 

BROILED BEEF TEA — Broil h lb. of lean, juicy beef 1 minute 
on each side, cut in small pieces, pour over it | cup of boiling water, 
squeeze it, salt the juice and serve instantly. Do not heat it again. 

STEWED BEEF TEA.— Use i lb. of round steak, cut fine, soak 
it in 1 cup of water ^ hour, let it heat (not boil), strain, salt and 
serve. (In making beef tea it is well to know that 1 lb. of the round 
will yield 4 07.. of beef extract, and contains more nutriment and is 
much cheaper than extract bought ready prepared.) 

APPLE WATER — Cut 3 or 4 apples in slices, jDour boiling 
water over, allow to stand 2 or 3 hours, strain, and sweeten slightly. 
This is a very refreshing drin 

BARLEY WATER.— To 1 cup of barley (first washed) add 1 
quart of water. Allow to simmer until ^ has boiled away. Strain, 
and to this add a tablespoon of sugar dissolved in 1. cup of hot water- 
This is an excellent drink in febrile affections; also it is very refresh- 
ing and somewhat nourishing. To make a mild laxative drink, for 
children, add to the barley 8 or 10 figs cut in pieces. It is a delight- 
ful drink, and quite laxative. 

RICE WATER.— Wash ,2 oz. of rice; boil 1 hour in 2 quarts of 
water; strain, and sweeten; flavor with nutmeg. It is a very pleasant 
drink and efficacious in the bowel troubles of children. 

TOAST WATER.— Cut 4 slices of bread thin; toast to near 
burning. Pour over them 1 quart of boiling water and allow to cool, 
and strain. It may be flavored with a little lemon juice. This is a 
most wholesome and refreshing drink. 

HOT LEMONADE.— Peel the yellow rind off 1 lemon, squeeze, 
and add a glass of boiling water; sweeten with crushed sugar. This 



584 INVALID COOKERY 

is an excellent drink in the feverish condition of colds. It will 
quickly induce perspiration. 

EGG AND LEMON JUICE — Dissolve 1 oz. sugar in 1 pint of 
water, and stir in the juice of 1 lemon; add the wdiite of 1 egg and 
froth up. Ice it if desired. 

EGG DRINK. — Use 1 egg, 1 teaspoon of sugar, 1 teacup milk. 
Beat the egg well in a cup with the sugar, put the milk on to boil, 
and when it boils pour it over the egg, beating with a fork all the 
time. It is refreshing and invigorating. 

EGG AND LIME WATER — To a wine glass of lime water add 
the white of 1 egg beaten so it will not string. Give it in small 
quantity and often. It is excellent in obstinate vomiting and irrita- 
tion of the stomach. 

LIME WATER. — Put 2 teaspoons of lime water in | tumbler of 
milk; add a little sugar to taste. This will often l)e retained when 
the stomach rejects all other kinds of food. The same may be said 
of milk and soda water in equal proportions. We explain elsewhere 
how to make lime M-ater. 

FLAXSEED TEA. — To 1 cup water allow 1 tablespoon flaxseed; 
pour on the water boiling hot, boil 5 minutes and strain. Sweeten 
with sugar, and for flavor add a little lemon or orange juice. 

LINSEED TEA. — Boil 2 tablespoons of the unground linseed in 
3 pints of water until reduced to a quart; strain, and add lemon juice 
to relieve the flat taste. A very useful drink in colds and coughs. 
It is also good in affections of the urinary organs. 

LICORICE TEA — Take 2 oz. each of licorice and marshmallow 
root; boil m 3 pints of w^ater down to a quart. Allow it to stand to 
settle; then strain through muslin. It is a very desirable drink in 
colds, etc. 

SLIPPERY ELM TEA — Boil 1 oz. in a quart of water until ^ 
boiled away. Pour off, and flavor with lemon juice if desired. 
Useful in the same cases as the former.. 

RENNET WHEY. — Infuse a piece of the rennet in a little boil- 
ing water, as for making cheese; let it remain 1 or 2 hours; j)ut a 
tablespoon of this fluid into 3 pints of new milk, just warmed (not 
hot). Cover it with a cloth and let stand still until the curd is form- 
ed thick on the top; press out, and use the whey. 

WINE WHEY — Add to a pint of milk, brought to the boiling 
point, sufficient madeira or sherry wine to coagulate it. Strain, 
sweeten or flavor to the taste. 



INVALID COOKERY 



585 



RICE AND MILK. — Wash 3 tablespoons of rice; put in a sauce- 
pan with a j)int of milk; allow to simmer until rice is soft, stirring 
from time to time to prevent burning; sweeten and flavor to taste. 
This is a nice dish for children, especially when troubled with sum- 
mer complaint. 

Tapioca, Macaroni, Vermicelli etc., may be treated in the same way. 
They make very palatable dishes. 

SWISS CREAM. — Boil a i^int of cream or milk with a little cin- 
namon or lemon peel; rub a teaspoon of flour in a small quantity of 
milk, and add it to the rest, stirring it on the fire. 

ASSES' MILK. — This is much like human milk in consistency, 
but contains a little less cream and more soft caseous matter. It 
is often used by persons afflicted with lung affections, and is consider- 
ed very strengthening. 

Artificial asses' milk may be made by dissolving 2 oz. of sugar 
of milk in 1 pint of warm, skimmed, cow's milk. Another recipe for 
artificial asses' milk is -| oz. of gelatine dissolved in a quart of hot 
barley water, then add 1 oz. of refined sugar, and then 1 pint of new 
cow's milk and beat all together. 

ARROWROOT. — Mix 2 

teaspoons of arrowroot with 1 
tablespoon of cold water, then 
add ^ pint of boiling milk and 
boil 10 minutes. Sweeten to 
taste and add nutmeg or pow- 
dered cinnamon. It is light 
and agreeable for a delicate 
stomach. 

Akkoweoot. — This is a species 
of starch obtained from the roots of 
a variety of plants cultivated chiefly 
in the West Indies. The origin of ■ 
the name is said to be the use by the 

Indians of the fresh roots to cure the aeeowboot. 

wounds caused by poisoned arrows. 

Any kind of starch to be digestible 
should boil 10 to 20 minutes. It is not enough to cook it until it swells, but it 
must be cooked until the starch granules burst their sheaths. Starch preparations 
are often cooked too little. 

GOAT'S MILK. — This is considered very good for invalids in 
some conditions. It resembles cow's milk, but the butter contained 
in it is harder than that of the cow. 

Artificial goat's milk is made by taking a piece of fresh calf's 
suet the size of an egg, tying it in a cloth, scalding it in a quart of 




586 INVALID COOKERY 

new milk, and adding a level tablespoon of granulated sugar. The 
suet must be cut finely, or chopped, and tied loosely in a thin piece 
of muslin or lace. This is excellent for scrofulous children, and any 
person suffering from affections of the lungs. 

FRANQIPANE — This is a preparation for invalids made by 
evaporating to a thick consistency (in a double boiler) milk mixed 
with blanched and pounded sweet almonds, and a little sugar. 

SUET AND MILK. To 1 pint of new milk add 1 cup of scraped 
veal suet and a teasjioon of sugar. Scald together for an hour, then 
strain, and add a little flavoring if liked. This is a nourishing drink 
for an invalid or delicate child. 

MILK OR CREAM TOAST.— Toast a slice of bread uniformly 
brown. Break the crust by rolling, and add sufficient hot milk or 
cream to thoroughly soak it. Sweeten with powdered eugar. 

SIPPETS. — When the stomach cannot bear meat, toast some 
slices of bread, lay them on a hot plate, and pour hot meat gravy 
over them; add salt to taste. 

BOILED OR BAKED FLOUR.— Tie some flour in a cloth as if 
it were a jjudding, XJut it in boiling water and boil for 3 hours; then 
scrape down the inner part of the ball, and use a tablespoon in a pint 
of milk to make a gruel. Or put the flour on a tin in the oven and 
bake it till it is a light brown; then use as before. Both these prep- 
arations are more digestible than uncooked flour. 

GRUELS.— Corn=starch, Rice, Wheat Flour or Arrowroot. — Wet 2 

teaspoons of the flour in cold water or milk, stir it into 1 cup of 
boiling water, add 1 saltspoon of salt, boil 10 to 15 minutes; thin it 
with T^ cup of milk. 

Barley Gruel. — Wash f cup of pearl barley and boil it in 1 pint of 
water for 20 minutes; pour off this water and add 1 quart "of fresh 
boiling water; let it boil until reduced |; strain, and add the rind of 
a lemon and sweeten to taste. 

Codfish Gruel. — Freshen a tablespoon of shredderl codfish to taste; 
add to it 1 teaspoon sifted flour, and 1 cup of boiling water — allow- 
ing it to simmer long enough to thoroughly cook the flour; add a 
very little butter, and eat with toasted cracker. 

Cornmeal or Oatmeal Gruel. — Mix ^ cup of the meal with a little 
cold water; then add a pint of boiling water, a teaspoon of salt, and 
boil 25 or 30 minutes. Sweeten to taste, and add a little nutmeg. 
This makes a nice light nourishment for the sick or convalescent. 

Cracker Gruel. — To 4 tablespoons of joowdered cracker, wet with 
boiling water, add 2 cups of hot milk. 



INVALID COOKERY 587 

Egg Qruel. — Beat well 1 egg, white and yolk separately; pour 1 
cup of boiling water or milk to the yolk, add 1 teaspoon of sugar; 
mix well, and stir in the white. 

Onion Gruel. — Slice and cut finely 2 or 3 small onions; stew them 
in a quart of water until they are soft; then add a teaspoon 
of good extract of beef. This is excellent for a cold. Or 
the onions may be stewed in milk instead of water, and a 
sprinkle of oatmeal and a pinch of pepper stirred in, 
instead of the meat extract if preferred. Take it just 
before aettino: into bed. 




MILK PORRIDGE — Boil 24 raisins cut in quarters, 
in water enough to cover them, 20 minutes; when jjlump, 
and the water has evai^orated, add 2 cups of milk, and 
when boiling add 1 teaspoon of flour rubbed to a paste; let 
it boil up, then with a little cold milk add the white of an onion. 
egg well beaten. 

OATMEAL JELLY OR STIFF PORRIDGE.— Boil a pint of 
water, and while it is still on the fire, stir in small quantities of oat- 
meal very fast, sprinkling it in, until it is rather thick; then boil it 
slowly ^ hour. Turn it out into a soup plate, and eat it with milk, or 
syrup, or butter and salt. 

ELM JELLY. — To 1 quart of water add 4 tablespoons chipped 
slipi^ery elm, and let it stand ov^r night. In the morning strain off 
the water, add 1 or 2 slices of lemon (without seeds), sweeten, and 
let it boil for 10 minutes. Remove the lemon, and jaour it into a 
mold to cool and harden. 

RICE JELLY — Make a thin paste of 2 oz. of rice flour and 3 oz. 
of loaf sugar; boil them in a quart of water till transparent. Flavor 
with rose, orange, or cinnamon water. It can be made also by boil- 
ing whole rice long and slowly. A pinch of salt improves it. 

TAPIOCA JELLY. — Choose the largest sort, pour on cold water 
to wash it 2 or 3 times, then soak it in fresh water 5 or 6 hours, and 
simmer it in the same until it becomes clear, adding the peel of 1 
lemon; then add sugar, and lemon juice. It thickens very muchy 
Wine is also sometimes added for invalids. 

RESTORATIVE JELLY.— Use 1 box of gelatine, 1 tablespoon 
of powdered gum arable, ^ jjint of port wine, juice of |- a lemon, 3 
tablespoons of sugar, and 3 whole cloves; put all in a covered glass 
jar, set it on a plate in a kettle of cold water, let it soak ^ hour, put it 
on the fire, and heat slowly; when all is dissolved, stir well, and 
strain into a shallow dish, and cut in squares. 




588 INVALID COOKERY 

WINE JELLY. — Use | cup of gelatine; soak soft in ^ cup of 
cold water; then pour in 1 pint of boiling water, juice of 1 lemon, 1 
cup of sugar, 1 cup of sherry wine; stir and strain through a cloth 
into a mold. 

CRACKER PANADA. — Pour over 3 or 4 crackers, in a sauce=pan 
enough water to barely cover them. Boil 2 or 8 minutes. Pour off 
the surplus water, and add enough hot milk or cream to soak them. 
Sweeten with powdered sugar. 

ICELAND MOSS — Wash 1 oz. in boiling water; then boil 
slowly in a pint of water until quite soft. Strain through cloth, and 
sweeten. When done it will make a very palatable dish. 

Iceland Moss. — This is really a lichen, not a moss. It 
grows in northern latitudes. Its bitter taste is due to an acid it 
contains, but by soaking it in a weak solution of carbonate of 
soda that can be removed. It contains about 10 per cent, of 
water, 9 of albumenoids, 70 of lichen starch, G of lichen acids, 
3}4. of cellulose, and 1}^ of mineral matter. 

Jeish Moss is a seaweed, collected mostly on the coasts of 
Ireland. Its chief constituent is a kind of mucilage which dis- 
solves to a stiff paste in boiling water; it also contains a little 
iodine and much sulphur. Its constituents are, water 19;?!, albu- 
menoids 9, mucilage, etc. 56, mineral matter 14. It should be Iceland moss. 
soaked in cold water for an hour or so before being boiled in 
water or milk. It will often relieve a severe cough, and is fre- 
quently given in cases of rheumatism and gout. 

ARROWROOT BLANC MANGE.— Mix arrowroot in the usual 
way, but use 8 times more than you would for gruel; add milk and 
flavoring; sweeten to taste and simmer till thick enough for a mold. 

RICE BLANC MANGE — Boil as much ground rice in a pint of 
milk as will make it thick enough to turn out of a mold, sweetening 
and flavoring to taste. A sauce can be added of milk, cream, or any 
invalid custard. 

Sago Blanc Mange is made the same way, first washing the sago in 
several waters. 

Tapioca Blanc Mange is made the same way, washing the tapioca, 
and using less of it. 

TAGANROK BLANC MANGE.— Put 2 cups milk in a double 
boiler, bring it to a boil, and sprinkle in 2 tablespoons taganrok 
farina, stirring all the time; add ^ teaspoon salt, and cook 30 min- 
utes, stirring often; then turn into a mold which has been wet with 
cold water; let cool, and serve ice cold with cream and sugar. 
(Taganrok is Russian wheat farina. It can be bought in small 
packages at the stores.) 




FOREIGN COOKERY. 

BRIEF glance at the cookery of other nations may be of inter- 
est to our readers. Those who are fond of trying experiments 
may be glad to try some of the foreign dishes. Owing to 
our limited space we can give only a few recipes — not as 
many as we are tempted to do, but a good many foreign recipes of 
various kinds will be found scattered through our pages, in addition 
to those which we give here. 

ENGLISH COOKERY.— English cookery resembles the Ameri- 
can more than any other nation. The cooking of meat is much the 
same in the two countries, but in America meat is so jjlentiful 
that much more is wasted, in fact, probably no other nation wastes 
as much food of any kind as the American. It is a national charac- 
teristic which often impresses foreigners. The varieties of fish, fruit 
and vegetables eaten in the two countries vary slightly, although in the 
main they are similar, and so is the method of cooking them. It is 
unnecessary to give recipes here, as so many English reci]3es are 
given in the body of our work, and the cookery of the two countries 
is so similar that they would present little novelty or contrast to 
our readers. It will be better to devote our limited space to other 
countries. 



FRENCH COOKERY. 

The French are justly proud of their cookery which ranks very 
high, perhaps higher than that of any other nation. Garlic is very 
generally used in flavoring French dishes, so much being often used 
as to render them quite unpalatable to the unaccustomed taste, but 
in delicate cooking its presence is hardly noticed. Much impor- 
tance is attached to a good dish of fish. In a countxy like France 
where the church jjrescribes as a panacea, a maigre fare twice a week 
(though it is generally observed only on Fridays) this attention to 
the i^rej^aration of fish is quite natural. 

In cooking meats the French disguise or cover the taste in vari- 
ous ways, while the English and American system retains the origi- 
nal flavor more generally. The French say that their Anglican cousins 
eat their meat raw, while, on the other hand, we think they lose 
much of the rich flavor of the meat by so uniformly disguising it. 

589 



590 FEENCH COOKEKY 

Possibly, however, the conditions of the different countries regulate 
these matters largely, for while with the best meat much is gained by 
retaining its flavor, with inferior qualities more is gained by masking 
it, and probably the quality of the meat is generally better in Eng- 
land and America than in France. The very general custom of mak- 
ing soups and stews, draws out of the meat its salts and extractives, 
and leaves the fibrin and other ingredients insipid and unpalatable. 
These remnants of meat, however, contain elements of food essential 
to the system, and by the use of sauces and flavorings they are made 
very palatable and attractive by the French. 

Much bread is baked in country houses, and large, flat, plain 
cakes, called gaieties, composed princii^ally of flour and water, (the 
butter being conspicuous by its absence) are universal. The smaller 
cakes are delightful. Vanilla is the most popular flavoring. Deli- 
cate little puff's made in soft, flaky rolls, are filled with preserves of 
various kinds, but the vanilla flavor is traceable in most of them. 

There is a sort of national jam, called raisinct. It is very common 
with the middle classes, and is used for cakes, and for eating with 
bread and butter. Its foundation i"s the new wine as it comes from 
the press, and into this are thrown turnips, carrots, [)Iums, apples, 
pears or any other fruit that may be in season, and it is kexat stirring 
for 24 hours. No sugar is added, but the process of long boiling is 
sufficient to make it keep for a whole year. Fruit syrups are a great 
feature in France. Raspberries, strawberries, currants, apples, apri- 
cots and every sort of fruit is utilized. These syrups are used for 
sauces, as well as mixed with water for drinks, and grateful indeed 
are these cooling beverages in the sultry days of a French summer. 

But the French especially excel in their enirees or made dishes, 
and there is something both artistic and scientific in the refinement 
of taste which they display in their various combinations of mush- 
rooms, truffles, and other garnitures and seasonings. A great delicacy 
made by these people is the airy vol-'UU'Venf. Everything is con- 
verted into a vohaU'Vent. Meat of all descriptions cut up small in a 
delicate sauce; in like manner fricasseed fowl, fish stewed in wine, 
and game dressed in savory fashion find a place in this flaky recej)- 
tacle, As a sweet, also, it is much favored, fruit and preserves often 
making their appearance when the toj) is removed. The pates of 
France may be regarded as the equivalent of the German ivurst, and 
there is a great variety in their seasoning and in the different kinds 
of meat employed in their fabrication. In hon-bous, however, no 
people can equal the French in the variety and excellence of their 
production, and probably no other people are so fond of sweetmeats, 



FRENCH COOKERY 591 

Children, especially, are surfeited with them, so that it is f)rol)ably 
detrimental to their health. Other nations do well not to imitate 
them in this regard. 

The economy of French cooks is very noticeable. Everything in 
the way of food is utilized. Among the poorer French people, no 
matter to what class they belong, there is far less meat consumed than 
among the same classes here, yet the fare is more dainty, apjpetizing 
and varied than ours. In their hands vegetables are not merely acces- 
sories, but are made the most attractive of foods. The very poor, how- 
ever, live on the simplest fare. It is no uncommon thing to see a 
laboring man or woman, (for women also labor in the fields) making 
his or her meal on a piece of dry bread and garlic. 

We have s^jace to give but few French dishes in this place, but 
very many most desirable French recijjes are given in the body of our 
work. Their bouillon, bouillabaise, julienne and other soups; their 
bechamel, matelote, maitre d' hotel and other sauces; their beef a la 
mode and various other dishes will be found in their appropiate 
places in our work. Every year sees a more general use of good 
French reci^jes by our own people. 

COURT BOUILLON TO BOIL FISH IN Take 1| quarts of 

water and put into it 3 tablespoons of salt and 1 of pepper seeds, 
I pint of cider vinegar, 2 cloves, 2 onions, 2 bay leaves, 1 carrot. Let 
it come to a boil and then put in the fish. 

MACEDOIN OF VEGETABLES.— In the spring select good fresh 
vegetables which match well, like asparagus, turnips, carrots, string 
beans, etc. Cut the asparagus into 1| inch pieces, the beans into 
lozenges, and the others into fancy shapes, and cook each kind sejia- 
rately in salted water till tender; then drain them. Put butter into a 
stewing^pan, and as soon as it melts put in the vegetables and stir 
them a little over a moderate fire. Use just butter enough to envel- 
ope the vegetables, but no more. When well warmed, add enough 
bechamel sauce to moisten them. Then arrange them on a hot dish 
in the form of a pyramid and, serve. 

FILLETS DE VENT — Take the white of 1 egg and 6 oz. of- 

white sugar; flavor with vanilla and stir together till about as 
thick as icing. Put little bunches on paper and bake in a slow oven. 

MIROTIN OF VEAL.— Take remnants of veal and chop fine, 
adding some fat bacon if you have it. Take ^^ as much bread crumbs 
as meat, and put it in milk; when w^ell soaked, take out, squeeze dry 
in a clean cloth, and add it to the meat, i^dd also 1 egg beatei^ 



592 GERMAN COOKERY 

light, salt, pepper and a slice of onion and a little parsley minced 

together. Put all together in a sauce^pan, mix 

thoroughly, and merely warm without cooking. 

Now take a deep dish, butter it well, put in the 

mixture, and bake in a quick oven. Turn it 

out whole, and serve with caper sauce. 




BLACK PEPPEK. 



Peppek. — Of tliis aromatic berry or fruit there are 
several kinds. The black is derived from berries growing 
on vines something like grapes. It grows in Malabar 
and other places. Each berry contains a seed of a brown- 
ish color, which is black when dried, and is the pepper of 
commerce. White pepper is made from black by steep- 
ing the seeds in lime water and then rubbing off the 
coats, and is therefore less pungent than the black. 
Black pepper contains a concrete acrid oil, a volatile oil, starch, malic and uric 
acids and lignine. Small quantities are stimulant, but large quantities are irrita- 
ting. Even small quantities produce detrimental effects on inflammatory consti 
tutions. 

RAMEQUINS. — In a graiin dish, put 1 tablespoon of melted 
butter; now put in a layer of thin slices of bread, and cover ic with 
cheese in thin slices. Next take 1 cup milk, stir in 3 eggs, and pour 
over all. Put in the oven and bake till the top is light brown, which 
should be in 15 minutes. Delicious. 



GERMAN COOKERY. 

The Germans possess good appetites and are highly critical in the 
matter of cooking. Perhaps the greatest difference between the Ger- 
man cooking and our own consists in their greater use of seasoning, 
princix)ally fresh and dried herbs of all kinds. Many dishes which 
we look upon as ready for the table they would regard as only half 
prexoared. Certainly the Germans take a great deal of pains in the 
preparation of all kinds of meat. Joints to be roasted, after having 
been wiped and deprived of all superfluous fat, gristle, or any un- 
sightly scraijs, are thoroughly Tubbed w^ith a mixture of herbs, 
selected according to the different nature of the meat to be dressed. 
Then onion, allspice, pepper and salt, and occasionally cloves, are 
placed in the pan and the joint is basted frequently with the gravy 
thus flavored, all of which adds a refined and delicate flavor to its 
taste. 

Their manner of cooking vegetables is more artistic than our 
own. A delicate savoy cabbage with which we would be satisfied 
when thoroughly boiled in salt and water, would not seem so perfect 
were we to taste a similar cabbage after a German handling, with the 



GEKMAN COOKERY 593 

addition of shallot delicately fried in clarified butter, pepper, parsley, 
and just a touch of flour. German cooks are scrupulously attentive 
to washing their vegetables, and consume large quantities of water in 
the process. 

The excellence of German bakers is w^ell known, for they are to 
be found scattered all over our own country, and most of us are 
familiar with the varieties of brown and white bread which they 
make, as well as rolls of every description. The German families 
buy their bread very largely at the baker's instead of making it at 
home. The cakes, however, every family makes, or can make them- 
selves; plain or rich cakes, bread tarts, and foam tarts (the foam 
being a combination of eggs and sifted sugar) as well as open tarts, 
not made with preserves as ours are, but of the lightest dough rolled 
out and cut into long or round shapes and thickly overlaid wnth fresh 
fruit, sprinkled with sugar and currants, the juice permeating the 
crust and none of it being lost, thus giving a rich flavor to the tart. 
Stewed fruit is frequently used at German tables as a substitute for a 
second vegetable. With roast pork, for example, a large basin of 
stewed plums generally makes its aj)pearance, instead of the side-dish 
of apple sauce to which we treat it. Apple compote is served in the 
same way with roast veal or fowl. Ducks, geese and turkeys are 
usually stuffed with chestnuts and spices. 

The knowledge of cookery runs through all classes, and is an 
essential part of a girFs education. The great majority of families 
belonging to the middle classes in Germany live in flats, even 
those wdio may be termed wealthy. The daughters, even in the 
highest class, take their turn, week about, in superintending ihe 
management of the house, thus learning housekeeping and cooking 
from earliest youth. 

BRETZELN. — Mix 1 large tablespoon yeast into | pint warm 
milk; stir it into 1| lbs. of flour, and beat it well. In another pan 
beat ^ lb. butter to cream; add to this 2 oz. sifted sugar, 3 eggs, 
another tablespoon of yeast, and a little salt. Put the doilgh into 
this, and beat all together thoroughly till quite smooth; cut off pieces 
the size of an egg, roll them into round bars 6 to 8 inches long, and 
tapering off at the ends. Lay them on buttered tins, curving them 
in half circles or new moon shapes, leaving space between each. 
Put them by gentle warmth to rise; when light, brush them over 
with egg, dust sugar over, and bake them a pale brown. 

CHICKENS {Ordinary German ira?/).— Stuff 2 chickens with 
a stuffing made of French rolls, a little butter, 1 egg, 1 onion finely 
38 



594 GERMAN COOKERY 

shredded, parsley, thyme and grated lemon peel. Next lard and 
bread-crumb them, placing a piece of fat over the breast that they 
may not become too brown. Place the chickens in a stew=pan with 1 
oz. butter; leave uncovered for a short time, then cover and bake for 
1^ hours. Half an hour before serving add 1 small cup of cream, 
and baste thoroughly over a hotter fire. 

DICKE MILCH. — This is new milk put into a pie dish or other 
shallow vessel and allowed to stand 2 or 3 days, according to the 
weather, until it is sour and thick, but not quite so thick as blanc 
mange. Only experience can guide one as to the exact stage at 
which it is ready to use. If left too long a watery fluid rises to the 
top. It is eaten with bread crumbs and sugar. 

FROTHED MILK SOUP.— Pound 6 bitter almonds, and boil 
them in 2 quarts milk, or instead of the almonds use ^ a stick of va- 
nilla; add sugar to taste and a little salt. Beat separately 4 eggs; 
the whites must be beaten to a, stiff froth, then mixed with the yolks. 
Let the milk just cease boiling, and whisk in the eggs till it froths 
well, but not over the fire or the eggs will curdle. Serve with small 
sponge biscuit. 

QRUTZE. — Boil 2 lbs. red currants and ^ lb. raspberries, in 1^ 
j)ints water; when quite soft pass through a sieve. Make this juice 
boil, and add |- lb. sago well soaked in water; let it boil ^ hour, stir- 
ring it all the time. Wet a mold with cold water, pour in, and when 
cold turn it out. To be eaten with milk, cream or custard. Any 
other fruit or i3reserve will do as well. 

QULASCH. — Cut a tender piece of steak into quite small pieces, 
lay them in a deep frying-ijan, with a little bacon, some slices of on- 
ion, and a little pepper and salt; fry them in butter till the gravy 
looks brown; then add a little lemon juice and a small quantity of 
water. Cover the pan, and let the contents simmer till the meat is 
quite done. 

KNODELN. — Mash 8 or 4 large potatoes smoothly with 1 large 
tablesj^oon of flour, and mix with 1 well beaten egg; make into balls 
the size of a walnut, and boil. These are served with meat in the 
place of other vegetables. They can also be baked. 

KOCHE {3IoJ<Is). — We have no suitable term for this sort of 
a dish in English. Sponge pudding is the nearest, but this does not 
do it justice; nor is custard right. We must therefore call it mold. 

Chocolate Mold. Whip 2 oz. of butter with 2 oz. of sugar, the 
yolks of 3 eggs, and 3 oz. of grated chocolate; mix in the 3 whites 
whisked to a stiff snow; bake in a buttered mold. 



GERMAN COOKERY 595 

Potato Mold. — Whisk 3 eggs with 2 oz. of sugar and a little grated 
lemon peel; then stir in a pint of cream and enough grated cold pota- 
toes to form a very thick batter, which must be so stifp that it will 
not drop from the spoon. Bake in a welhbuttered mold. 

Egg Mold.— Use 4 oz. of butter, 4 oz. of sugar, the yolks of 8 eggs, 
the grated peel and juice of ^ lemon, and a tablespoon of flour; whip 
them to a foam; then stir in the whites of 4 eggs in a stiff snow. 
Bake it in a buttered mold or dish. 

NEUN=LOTK PUDDING.— This favorite pudding is made as fol- 
lows: Stir |- pint of milk into 4| oz. fine flour and 4^ oz. powdered 
loaf sugar. Put 4-| oz. butter and | pint of milk into a stew-pan, and 
when this is hot and the butter is melted, stir in the other milk and 
flour; keep the mixture stirred over the fire till it boils and thickens; 
then turn it out into a pan to cool. Stir in the yolks of 9 eggs and 
4^ oz. almonds blanched and pounded, and lastly the 9 egg whites, 
beaten to a stiff snow. Stir all briskly together, butter a mold or 
basin, fill it, and boil the pudding 1^ hours. The water must not 
cease boiling. Serve with a good sauce. 

NUDELS. — Beat 2 eggs, work into them by degrees as much 
flour as they will take, and knead them into a smooth stiff paste. 
Cut into 4 or G parts, make into balls, and roll out as thin as x^aper, 
and spread it on a napkin in the sun or near the fire to dry; it dries 
quickly. Then cut into quarters, lay the pieces on to^o of each other, 
and cut into strips as narrow as twine. Dry them well and they will 
keep some time. They can be made white by using only the whites 
of the eggs and flour. Keep the board well floured while rolling 
them. They are used much like the Italian macaroni. A common 
way is to drop them into boiling water well salted; they will cook in 
about 5 minutes; pour browned butter on them when they are served, 
and add a little grated cheese if desired. 

SAURBRATEN — This is one of the great national dishes. Lay 
a piece of beef in a deep dish and pour a cup of vinegar^ over it. 
Leave it in this 2 to 4 days, -turning and basting it every day. To 
prepare for cooking wii:)e it dry; cut strips of fat bacon the size of a 
little finger; roll them in a mixed seasoning of salt, pepper and 
ground cloves. Make holes in the meat, and with a large skewer put 
in the pieces of bacon. Make butter hot in an iron pot or stew-pan, 
just large enough to hold it; put in the beef and set it over a brisk 
fire, letting the steam escape to hasten the browning; dredge it with 
fiour, and turn it when one side is brown. When the meat is nicely 
colored add about 1 pint of water, 2 carrots quartered lengthwise, 1 



596 ITALIAN COOKEEY 

or 2 large onions sliced, 2 or 3 bay leaves, 1 teaspoon of whole pep- 
per, a blade of mace, ^ of a lemon peel, and a good sprinkling of 
salt. Cover closely, and let it steam 2 or 3 hours, adding a little 
water when necessary. At serving time take up the meat and keep 
it hot while you skim off the fat and strain the gravy. The unbroken 
carrots may be laid around the meat. Add lemon juice or vinegar if 
the sauce requires more acid; thicken it with flour, give it a boil up, 
pour a little over the meat, and serve the rest in a sauceboat. 

STICKLERSPERSGROD.— For this simple and cheap dish, well 
flavored, ripe, red gooseberries are used. Take 4 lbs. gooseberries 
with ^ lb. raspberries, keep them stirred gently in a stew pan over a 
clear fire till the fruit is (piite soft, then mash and strain the juice 
through a cloth. Make this juice quite boil; then add i lb. sugar 
and 6 oz. corn flour or arrowroot; let it boil 10 minutes, stirring all 
the time. Wet a mold with cold water, pour it in, and when cold 
turn it out. The best proportion is 1 pint juice to ^ lb. corn flour. 
To be eaten in soup plates with sifted sugar and milk. 

Sauerkraut is eriven in our article on " Vegetables." 



ITALIAN COOKERY. 

Italian cooking has a general resemblance to the French. In 
fact there is more or less resemblance in the cooking of all the Latin 
races. Their soups are endless in variety, and are sometimes pre- 
loared with vegetables and sometimes without. A dish which may 
almost be called national, so general is its use, is the Alinesfi'onc, or 
large, thick soup. It consists of vegetables stewed together for many 
hours, thickened with rice and a strip of bacon added. Macaroni is 
absent, but Parmesan cheese is plentifully added. Joints of meat 
are cut smaller than with us, but they are quite commonly garnished 
with olives, and so are their ragouts and stews. The Italians have a 
most delicate way of preparing cutlets, and veal cutlets are in esj)e- 
cial favor. Sausage making is carried to a high degree of excellence, 
and there are some varieties (like the Bologna) which are well 
known abroad. 

Italian bread is light and pleasant to the taste, and many kinds 
of rolls and cakes are artistically shaped. Bicotfa, as well as maca- 
roni, and Risofti, a rice pudding, may be called a national dish, as 
it makes its aiopearance almost daily on Italian tables. Although 
possessing fruit in aliundance their syrups are inferior to those of 
France, and hence, doubtless, are little used, but the use of lemonade 



ITALIAN COOKEEY 597 

as a beverage is universal. In the manufacture of ices they certainly 
excel, and in the variety and excellence of their bon-bons they nearly 
equal the French. A great deal of fruit is consumed, and no coun- 
try is richer in its productions of this kind. Oil is very generally 
used in their cooking now, as in olden times, taking the place of but- 
ter used in English and American cooking, and of course this affects 
the flavor of many dishes. 

BRACCIOLETTE.— Take a fillet of beef, remove all fat and 
gristle, and mince it finely, mixing with it salt, 1 or 2 cloves (pow- 
dered), and a little olive oil and chopped fat bacon, sweet herbs and 
parsley to taste. When well amalgamated, roll it out and divide into 
small pieces; form each into a ball, roll them in liquified butter, and 
then in fine bread crumbs. Just before they are wanted, broil them 
on a good fire, first on one side, then on the other; if done too long 
they will be spoiled. 

CROCCANTE — Take |- lb. finely chopped (and blanched) sweet 
almonds, ^ lb, loaf sugar, 1 tablespoon essence of lemon, a piece of 
butter the size of a walnut; boil in a sauce^pan till it browns (15 to 
20 minutes); turn into a flat, buttered pan and cut when cold into 
small pieces, eating cold. 

GNIOCCHI OF SEMOLINA.— Take 1 lb. good semolina and 1 
pint milk. Put the milk, with an equal quantity of water, on the 
fire, and before it reaches the boiling point sprinkle in the semolina; 
then let it boil, stirring all the time. When sufficiently cooked, turn 
it out on the pasteboard, which should be previously sprinkled with 
cold water. When cold, cut the paste into pieces the size of a wal- 
nut. Put them on a dish, season them well with grated Parmesan 
cheese, sugar and cinnamon, and add butter. Put them in the Dutch 
oven and bake 1 hour before serving. 

MINESTRA. — Cut up 3 or 4 potatoes, add a proportionate quan- 
tity of beans (dried ones are best), onions, carrots, and celery sliced, 
and, if in season, sliced vegetable marrow and pumpkin rind. Boil all 
these in ^ sauce=pan of v/ater till the potatoes are quite soft, adding 
salt. Then add ^ lb. rice or macaroni; boil a little longer, as the rice 
ought not to be soft, and before taking off the fire add 1 oz. butter 
(a spoonful of olive oil is orthodox), and as much Pjirmesan cheese; 
stir a few moments and serve. Grated cheese may with advantage be 
added afterwards, 

RICOTTA — Strain 1 gallon of fresh whey into a flat copper pan, 
put it on a gentle fire, and as soon as a kind of froth begins to rise 



598 SPANISH COOKERY 

on it add 1 quart of milk, and stir the mixture li,G:htly with a stick 
until a thick froth rises all over the surface; gather this froth with a 
spoon, and init it to drain in a very fine tin colander, and the ricotta 
is made. Carefully avoid letting the milk and whey come to a boil 
at any time during the process. 

RISOTTO. — Take | lb. rice, and boil it with sufficient salt in a 
little more water than will cover it, till the rice begins to swell; it 
must not get too soft. Then add a pinch of saffron, just to color it, 
or, if possible, 1 tablespoon of tomato sauce; also about 1 oz. butter, 
and as much grated Parmesan cheese; stir for a few minutes, and 
serve. This is for 4 people. 

POLENTA WITH GRAVY.— Into 1|- gallons of water put 1 
teaspoon salt, and when it boils stir in gradually, stirring all the 
time, 1 tablesx^oon butter and 2 cups semoule or coarse cornmeal; 
boil 20 minutes. Then put a layer of the polenta in a dish, cover 
with tomato sauce and good gravy (having a cup of each hot and 
ready) and sprinkle with grated cheese. Put it into the dish in al- 
ternate layers in this way, and serve hot. 



SPANISH COOKERY. 

In Spain the inhabitants subsist mainly on maize and rice, with 
some wheat and legumes, among them the garbanzo or " chick pea." 
There is little butter used, the universal substitute being olive oil 
which is produced in great quantities. Fowls and the pig furnish 
the chief animal food, and garlic is the favorite condiment. Fruit is 
fine and al)undant; especially so are grapes, figs and melons. Sev- 
eral Si^anish recipes appear elsewhere in our work. 

OLLA PODRIDA — First and foremost among soups comes the 
far-famed olla podrida, which is so supremely dear to the national 
heart. It is made as follows: Spread a little butter over the bottom 
of a 4=quart sized kettle or stew pan; upon this lay 4 onions cut in 
slices, and then 4 lbs. of gravy beef cut in thick slices, and -| lb. raw 
ham or lean bacon, an old partridge or pheasant; add 2 carrots, celery 
and parsley roots, a bay leaf, thyme, and a clove of garlic tied up 
tightly, 6 cloves, and a bit of mace; moisten with a quart of water or 
stock, and boil down to a glaze, or until it begins to fry; fill up then 
with water or stock and simmer gently 2 hours; strain into the soup= 
pot containing carrots, turnips, celery and leeks, all cut fine. Then 
add a pint of garhanzos (Spanish peas), previously soaked and 




SPANISH COOKERY 599 

• boiled, and a dessertspoon of Sijanish sweet red peppers chopped 
fine; boil gently until the vegetables are done. Have the meat cut 
in small pieces in the tureen, pour the hot soup over it, and serve 
with bread. This of itself forms an excellent dinner. 

A JO BLANCO. — This soup is extensively used in Andalusia. 
Pound 1 clove of garlic and 7 well dried 
beans (or, better still, almonds), in a small 
spice mortar to a smooth paste. Moisten 
this paste with olive oil, drop by drop, then 
add water by degrees so as to thoroughly in- 
corporate and amalgamate the whole; add un- 
til it is suthcie]itly wet to soak some bread, 
which must be added later on, pouring in 
some vinegar and a little salt. Then put in 
the bread cruml)s, size of half an almond, and 
allow it to soak. A final mixing of the bowd, olives. 

and this quaint and perfectly national dish 
awaits consumption. 

BACALAO. — In this land of rigid Catholicism, bacalao or salted 
cod, is almost indispensable on the many fast days in the calendar. 
Cut up the cod after it has been soaked 24 hours, and lay the pieces 
so as to cover the bottom of a small earthen jar; pour on this a thick 
stratum of grated bread, with garlic and parsley in profusion; then 
more codfish, then bread again, and so on till the jar is full to the 
top. Fill all the crevices with raw oil, garlic, pejDper and salt. Close 
the jar and boil till the contents are nearly dry; then serve. Codfish 
with honey or sugar may be eaten by boiling the pieces, draining 
them dry, then soaking in honey, flouring, and then frying; or the 
pieces may be covered with yolk of egg, floured, and covered over 
with sugar; then fry. 

CARBONADA — Cut cold roast mutton or beef into pieces about 
1 inch square, and also about equal amounts of squash and cold po- 
tatoes; take also 2 or 3 ears qf corn and a few string beans; put 1 ta- 
blespoon of lard into a jDot, 1 onion chopped fine, then the squash, 
then 2 ripe tomatoes skinned and squeezed, and 1 red pepper with 
the seeds removed, then the other vegetables; cover with boiling 
water and stew 30 minutes; put in the meat and stew 30 minutes 
more; salt to taste. Ten minutes before serving put in the corn cut 
in small pieces. 

FRIJOLES — Cook pink beans until soft, in boiling water; drain, 
and mix in finely cho^jped onions, and a little of the water in which 



600 JEWISH COOKERY 

the beans were cooked; add salt and fry a light brown in smoking 
hot fat. 

OTAMO. — Slice equal amounts of onions and green tomatoes, 
and add a little bell peppers. Put fresh drippings and a little hot 
water into a hot skillet, add the vegetables and cook 1 hour, keeping 
closely covered, but stirring often. Serve hot. 

RED PEPPER SAUCE.— Carefully remove the seeds from 2 
sweet red peppers, and boil until tender; then drain, add 1 clove of 
garlic, and rub to a paste, adding a little water if necessary; then 
heat ^ cup sweet oil, stir in the paste, season with vineger and salt, 
after removing from the fire, and serve. 



JEWISH COOKERY. 

Jewish cookery is becoming much like that of their Christian 
neighbors, as, except among the more denominationally strict, the old 
restrictions are melting away, and they often employ Christian ser- 
vants. From having been forbidden to use butter with meat, oil 
enters more largely into their cookery of both meat and vegetables. 
Their fish fried in oil, and so cooked that it can be eaten cold or hot, 
enjoys a deservedly high reputation. As the Mosaic law forbids the 
use of any flesh as food which is not free from " spot or blemish " the 
meat supplied by the Jewish butchers is of the best quality 

AMNASTICH — Stew gently 1 pint of rice in 1 quart of strong 
gravy till it begins to swell; then add an onion stuck with cloves, a 
bunch of sweet herbs, a chicken stuffed with forcemeat; let it stew 
with the rice till thoroughly done, then take it up and stir into the 
rice the yolks of 4 eggs and the juice of a lemon; serve the fowl in 
the same dish with the rice, which should be colored to a fine yellow 
with saffron. 

MATSO CAKES. — Make a stiff paste with biscuit powder and 
milk and water; add a little butter, the yolk of an egg, and a little 
white sugar; cut into pieces, and mold with the hand, and bake in a 
brisk oven. These cakes should not be too thin. 

PASSOVER PUDDING.— Mix equal quantities of biscuit powder 
and shredded suet, half as much currants and raisins, a little spice 
and sugar, with 1 oz. candied peels, and 5 welhbeaten eggs; make 
them into a stiff batter, and boil well, and serve with a sweet sauce. 
This pudding is excellent baked in a pudding tin. It must be turned 
out when served. 



TURKISH AND RUSSIAN COOKERY GOl 

TURKISH COOKERY. 

CERKESTAL — Remains of fowls may be stewed with an onion, 
pepper, salt, and a little water. Wash and bruise 6 walnuts, and mix 
them in some of the gravy, adding a small quantity of cayenne pep- 
per, and serve this as a sauce. 

DOLMAS — Chop some mutton or beef very fine, with a little 
of the fat; add an onion, pepj)er, salt, and a little boiled rice, and mix 
it all together. Then take some cabbage leaves and put them into 
boiling water for 1 or 2 minutes, and then roll the meat into them 
like small sausages; then stew them in a little broth or water, with a 
small piece of butter in it. 

PILAU. — Well wash 6 oz. of East Indian rice, and boil it in a 
pint of water for 5 minutes at the most; then throw it into a colander 
that it may thoroughly drain. Next place it in a stew-pan with 1 oz. 
butter, salt and pepper to taste, stirring well, and add by degrees 
about h pint of good fowl broth. After 15 or 20 minutes it should 
be perfectly done and turn out with the grains separate. It is to be 
served perfectly hot.. The foregoing is true pilau, but additions may 
be made of portions of the meat of the fowl; of thin slices of bacon, 
curry powder, chutney, fried onions, mushrooms, tomatoes etc., but 
in none of these forms would it be regarded as the trr.e Oriental 
dish. 



RUSSIAN COOKERY. 

The Russian people during the great fasts (which last 4 to 7 
weeks, and which recur 4 times during the year) sustain themselves 
mainly on soup made with the bitter cabbages, and a handful of dry 
salted fish called suicdkij. It is clean tasted, but one must be a lover 
of this fish to relish it. Like many other northern nations the Rus- 
sians are fond of a subacid flavor in their food. Many of their 
soups are thus flavored, and ^yhere they are not, a very common thing 
is for a dish of sour cream to be at hand with which the consumer 
gives his food the degree of acidity which suits his palate, a spoonful 
or two being enough to convert an excellent dish of soup into what 
many would consider a sour and unpalatable mess. The most char- 
acteristic national food in Russia, and the daily food of the mass of 
the people, is sJicJii. It is made as follows: 

SHCHI — At the beginning of winter, chop cabbage into shreds 
and put it into a barrel with vinegar and salt. It becomes a kind of 
sauerkraut when a certain amount of fermentation has taken place, 



G02 RUSSIAN COOKERY 

It must be watched, because if the fermentation goes too far it 
acquires a high and disagreeable flavor. A portion of this is taken 
(ahnost daily) and boiled with meat to a kind of broth, which is the 
slichi. By adding different flavors it can be varied indefinitely, and 
if well made it is excellent. Some of the meat from which it is made 
is usually served with the broth. 

NALYM — Chop an onion, fry it in 2 sx)oonfuls fresh butter melt- 
ed; add 1 spoonful flour; mix, pour in a little water and set it to sim- 
mer. When it begins to boil put in 5 or 6 potatoes, cut into pieces, 
and add salt. Take fish, clean, salt, cut in convenient pieces, add to 
the former, and let all simmer together; add some barley grits, a 
little parsley and black pepper. Russians call this nalym, but it is 
translated lavaret, a name familiar to travelers as that of a kind of 
trout which inhabit the lakes of Switzerland. Russia is especially 
rich in fresh water fish, but sea fish is little used. Shchi is some- 
times made with sea fish. 




PICNICS. 

^. I tiCNIC may be made a thoroughly enjoyable entertainment 

if properly managed, and if not it can engender great dis- 

''^^ satisfaction. One of the first essentials is the lunch. If it 

"^ is a picnic in which several families unite, and there is 
simply a general understanding that each one is to bring something, 
there is apt to be too much of one thing and nothing of some quite 
essential article. The easiest way to avoid this is to have the ladies 
meet beforehand and make out a list of the things desired, and then 
request each one to bring her share — one bringing sandwiches, an- 
other fruit, and so on. Or appoint one competent lady to make out 
the menu, and assign to each one her share. In this way much 
more satisfactory results will be obtained than by the haphazard plan. 

For neatness, economy and comfort, buy paper napkins. 

The articles which are likely to be wanted first should be packed 
at the top of the picnic hamper. Cover little wooden or pepper 
plates with a lettuce leaf; it can be removed, a fresh leaf supplied, 
and the plate will be clean for the last course. 

As for the provisions, the_ articles suitable are very numerous. 
And do not forget the accompaniments to the difPerent dishes; thus 
if you have pie remember the cheese, and so on. Jellies and creams 
are more easily carried in their molds than when turned out. Butter 
is also best carried in a tumbler or covered dish. No cold lunch is 
comx^lete without sweet pickles, pickled peaches or olives. Pickled 
beans or bottled pickles are also in favor at such times. Sandwiches 
you will want of course, and we give directions for making a great 
variety of these elsewhere. For meats, game is always agreeable, 
and boiled ham, cold tongue, sausages, veal loaf, pressed veal, or 
chicken, and fried chicken are all suitable. Eggs, hard boiled, stufPed 
or deviled, are always relished, and so are salads and sardines. 
There should be an abundance of fruit, and cake and pies as may be 
desired. 

For drinks there is nothing better than lemonade. It is better 

to squeeze out the juice at home, sweeten it, and put it in bottles, 

and then by putting some in water and stirring it the lemonade is 

ready. Cold tea and cold coffee can be taken, and many fruit syrups 

make palatable drinks. Caterers now sell tea frappe, iced coffee and 

cold milk, delivered in little coolers j^acked in ice similar to ice 

cream. If ice can be carried it will be found very useful in many 

ways. 

603 



TIMES WHEN FOODS ARE IN 
SEASON. 

Apples, All tbe year. 
Apricots. June to September. 
Artichokes. September to November. 
Asparagus. May and June. 
Bass. All the year. 

Beans. Lima, all the year; string, June to November. 
Bear. December and January. 
Beef. All the year. 
Beets. All the year. 
Blackberries. July to September. 
Blueberries. August and September. 
Bluefish. June to October. 
Brocoli. All the year. 

Brussels sprouts. September to November. 
Butternuts. October through the winter. 
Cabbage. All the year. 
Cantelopes. July to September. 
Oarp. October to March. 
Carrots. All the year. 
Cauliflower. June until March. 
Celery. September to April. 
Checkerberries. Winter and Spring. 
Cherries. June to August. 
Chestnuts. From October on. 
Chickens. March to October. 
Chub. July to December. 
Clams. May until December. 
Cod. All the year. 

Corn. Green, from eJune to Se]3tember. 
Crabs. June to December. 
Cranberries. September to May. 
Cray=fish. All the year. 
Cucumbers. June to November. 
Currants. July to September. 
Cusk. Deceml)er to March. 
Dace. June to December. 
Damsons. August to November, 
Doves, turtle. August and September. 
Ducks. Wild, fall and spring; domestic, June to October. 
Eels. April to November. 
Elderberries. August to October. 
Endive. August to November. 

604 



TIMES WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON 605 

Figs. September and October. 

Flounders. All the year. 

Fowls, All the year. 

Goose. September to December. 

Gooseberries. June to September. 

Grapes. September to December. 

Greengages. August and September. 

Grouse. August to November. 

Gudgeon. June to December. 

Guinea Fowls. Best in winter. 

Haddock. September to February. 

Halibut. All the year. 

Herrings. Decemlier to April. 

Horseradish. All the year. 

Kale. May to March. 

Lamb. March to September. Best after June. 

Lampreys. All the year. 

Leeks. October to Ma^'. 

Lemons. All the year. 

Lettuce. May to November. 

Ling. All the year. 

Lobsters. All the year. Less used in winter. 

Mackerel. May to October. 

Medlars. October to January. 

Mullet. All the year. 

Mushrooms. August and September. 

Muskmelons. July to September. 

Mussels. January to April. 

Mutton. All the year. Not so good in the fall. 

Nectarines. August to November. 

Onions. All the year. 

Opossum. October to February. 

Oranges. All the year. 

Oysters. September to April. 

Parsnii^s. October to April. 

Partridges. September to January. 

Peaches. August to November. 

Pears. August to October. 

Peas. June to September. 

Perch. June to October. 

Pheasants. September to January. 

Pickerel. September to March. 

Pigeons. Wild, in September and October. 

Pike. Sei^tember to February. 

Place. All the year. 

Plover. October to January. 

Plums. August to October. 

Pork. Better not to eat it in the hot months. 

Potatoes, Irish. All the year. 

Potatoes, sweet. August to December, 



606 TIMES WHEN FOODS AKE IN SEASON 

Prawns. All the year. 
Prunes. Fresh, from December to April. 
Ptarmagan. Se^Dtember to April. 
Pumpkins. September to January. 
Quail. November and December. 
Quinces. October to December. 
Eabbits. September to February. 
Raccoon. In the fall. 
Radishes. April to November. 
Rail. September to November. 
Raspberries. June to September. 
Reed bird. September to November. 
Rhubarb. April to September. 
Salmon. May to September. 
Salsify. June to October. 
Savoy. October to March. 
Scallops. January to June. 
Shad. February to June. 
Shrimps. All the year. 
Smelts. October to March. 
Snipe. October to February. 
Spinach. March to December. 
Sprats. November to March. 

Squash. Winter, through the winter. Summer, June to August. 
Strawberries. June to September. 
Sturgeon. April to SeiDtember, 
Suckers October to April. 
Swordfish. July t(j September. 
Teal, October to February. 
Tantog. July to September. 
Tomatoes. June to December. 

•Trout. Lake, October to March; brook, March to August. 
Turbot. All the year. 

Turkeys. All the year. Best in fall and winter. 
Turnips. All the year. 
Turtles. May to December. 
Veal. All the year. 
Vegetable marrow. June to October. 
Venison. August to January. 
Walnuts. October through the winter. 
Watermelon. July to October. 
Watercress. All the year. 
Whitebait. January to September. 
Whitefish. October to March. 
Whiting. All the year. 
Wigeon. October to February. 
Woodcock. September to February. 



WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON BY MONTHS 607 

TIMES WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON BY 
MONTHS. 

The following lists of foods in season will be found useful in 
preparing menus, etc., as it can be seen at a glance what foods are in 
season in any month in the year. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN JANUARY. 

Vegetables. — Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, 
celery, chervil, cresses, parsnips, potatoes, pumpkins, savoys, squash, 
turnips, various herbs. 

Meat. — Beef, mutton, pork, veal. 

Poultry — Capons, fowls, tame pigeons, turkeys. 

Game — Bear, opossum, grouse, partridges, pheasants, rabbits, 
snipe, venison, wild fowl, woodcock. 

Fish. — Bass, carp, cod, eels flounder, haddock, halibut, herring, 
lamprey, ling, perch, pike, place, shrimp, smelts, sprats, sturgeon, 
lake trout, turbot, whitebait, whitefish, whiting. ShcU-Jish. — Crabs, 
Cray- fish, lobsters, mussels, oysters, pi"awns, scallops. 

Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, dates, figs, oranges prunes, raisins, 
almonds, brazil nuts, chestnuts, filberts, walnuts. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN FEBRUARY. 

Vegetables. — Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, 
celery, chervil, cresses, parsnips, potatoes, savoy, squash, turnips, var- 
ious herbs. 

Meat — Beef, mutton, pork, veal. 

Poultry. — Capons, tame pigeons, fowls, guinea fowls, turkey. 

Game. — Oi^ossum, rabbits, snipe, wigeon, woodcock. 

Fish. — Bass, carp, cod, eel, halibut, herring, ling, salmon, smelts, 
sprat, sturgeon, trout, turbot, whitebait, whitefish, whiting. Shell- 
fish. — Crabs, cray=fish, lobsters, mussel, prawn, oysters, scallops, 
shrimps. 

Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, oranges, dried fruit, dates, figs, 
i:)runes, raisins, almonds, butternuts, Vv-alnuts. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN MARCH. 

Vegetables.— Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, celery, chervil, 
cresses, parsnips, potatoes, sa^'oys, spinach, turnips, various herbs. 

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, jDork, veal. 

Poultry. — Capons, chickens, ducklings, tame j)igeons, fowls, tur-- 
keys, eggs. 

Game. — Ducks, hares, snipe. 

Fish. — Bass, carp, cod, eels, flounders, lamprey, haddock, 
halibut, herring, mackerel, mullet, mussel, perch, pike, place, salm- 
on, shad, smelt, sprat, sturgeon, trout, turbot, whiting, whitebait, 
whitefish. ShcU-fish. — Crabs, cray^fish, lobsters, mussel, oysters, 
prawn, shrimp. 

Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, oranges, dried fruits, dates, figs, 
prunes, raisins, almonds, nuts. 



608 WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON BY MONTHS 

FOODS IN SEASON IN APRIL. 

Vegetables. — Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbat^e, carrots, onions, par- 
snips, i3otatoes, radishes, rhubarb, sea^kale, spinach, turnips, various 
herbs. 

Meats. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veab 

Poultry. — Chickens, duckbngs, fowls, turkeys. 

Game. — Brant, ducks, snipe. 

Fish. — Bass, cod, flounders, halibut, herrino;, ling, mullet, place, 
salmon, shad, smelts, sturgeon, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. 
SIieU\fisJi. — Crab, cray-fish, lobster, mussel, oyster, prawn, shrimi^. 

Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, oranges, dried fruit, dates, figs, prunes, 
raisins, almonds, nuts. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN MAY. 

Vegetables. — Asparagus, beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, 
cresses, kale, greens, lettuce, parsnips, potatoes, radishes, spinach, 
turnips. 

Meats. — Beef, lamb, mutton, pork, veal. 

Poultry. — Chickens, ducklings, fowls, turkeys. 

Game. — Brant, 

Fish. — Bass, bluefish, carp, chub, cod, eels, flounders, halibut, 
mackerel; mullet, salmon, shad, smelt, sturgeon, trout, turbot, whit- 
ing, whitebait. S licl I -fi s Ji. — hohster, prawns, scallops, turtles. 

Fruit. — Apijles, oranges, rhubarb, strawberries, dried fruits, raisins, 
figs, dates, almonds, nuts. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN JUNE. 

Vegetables. — Asparagus, beans, beets, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, 
green corn, cucumbers, lettuce, peas, potatoes, radishes, spinach, 
squash, tomatoes, turnips. 

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal. 

Poultry. — Chickens, ducks, fowls, turkeys. 

Fish. — Bass, blue fish, carp, cod, eel, flounder, halibut, mackerel, 
mullet, perch, pike, place, salmon, shad, sturgeon, trout, turbot, 
whitebait, whiting. Shell' Jisli. — Clams, lobsters, jjrawns, shrimp, 
turtles. 

Fruit. — Apjiles, cherries, currants, gooseberries, oranges, rasp- 
berries, rhubarb, strawberries. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN JULY. 

Vegetables — Asparagus, beans, beets, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, 
celery, cresses, green corn, cucumbers, endive, lettuce, onions, peas, 
potatoes, radishes, spinach, squash, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable mar- 
row, various herbs. 

Meat. — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal. 

Poultry.— Chickens, ducks, fowls, turkeys. 

Fish. — Bass, bluefish, chub, cod, eels, flounder, halibut, mackerel, 
mullet, f)lace, salmon, swordfish, sturgeon, tautog, trout, turbot, 
whitebait, whiting. Shell-fish. — Cray=fish, lobsters, prawn, shrimp, 
turtles. 



WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON BY MONTHS 609 

Fruit. — Apples, apricots, blackberries, cherries, currants, goose- 
berries, muskmelons, oranges, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries, 
watermelons, almonds, raisins, nuts. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN AUGUST. 

Vegetables. — Beans, beets, cabbages, carrots, cauliflower, celery, 
cresses, green corn, cucumbers, endive, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, 
peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, radishes, rhubarb, sea-kale, squash, 
tomatoes, turnips, vegetable marrow, various herbs. 

Meat — Beef, lamb, mutton, veal. 

Poultry. — Chickens, ducks, fowls, pigeons, turkeys. 

Game. — Blackcock, grouse, prairie chickens, venison, woodcock. 

Fish — Bass, blue=fish, cod, chub, eels, flounders, halibut, 1am- 
13reys, mackerel, mullet, salmon, swordfish, sturgeon, tautog, trout, 
turbot, whiteliait, whiting. S/iell-fisJi. — Crabs, cray^fish, lobster, 
prawns, shrimp, turtles. 

Fruit. — Apples, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, currants, el- 
derberries, figs, gooseberries, muskmelons, oranges, peaches, joears, 
l^ineapples, plums, raspberries, watermelons. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN SEPTEMBER. 

Vegetables — Artichokes, beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, 
cauliflower, celery, cresses, cucumbers, lettuce, mushrooms, onions, 
peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, pumpkins, radishes, rhubarb, sea=kale, 
squash, tomatoes, turnips, vegetal)le marrow, various herbs. 

Meat. — Beef, mutton, pork, veal. 

Poultry. — Chickens, ducks, fowls, geese, turkeys. 

Game. — Blackcock, brant, grouse, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, 
l^rairie chickens, rabbits, rail, reedbird, venison, woodcock. 

Fish. — Bass, bluefish, chub, cod, dace, flounders, haddock, hali- 
but, mackerel, mullet, perch, j)lace, pike, pickerel, salmon, swordfish, 
sturgeon, tautog, trout, turbot, whitebait, whiting. Shell Jish. — Crabs, 
crayfish, lobster, oysters, prawns, shrimp, turtle. 

Fruit. — Apples, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, cranberries, 
elderberries, figs, goo.seberries, grapes, muskmelons, oranges, peaches, 
pears, plums, raspberries, watermelons. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN OCTOBER. 

Vegetables. — Artichokes, beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, 
cauliflower, celery, cucumbers, kale, lettuce, onions, potatoes, sweet 
potatoes, pumpkins, radishes, squash, tomatoes, turnips, vegetable 
marrow, various herbs. 

Meat.— Beef, mutton, pork, veal. 

Poultry. — Chickens, clucks, geese, fowls, turkeys. 

Game — Brant, goose, grouse, partridges, pheasants, pigeons, 
prairie chickens, rabbits, rail, 4'eedbirds, snipe, venison, woodcock. 

Fish. — Bass, bluefish, chub, cod. dace, eels, flounders, haddock, 
halibut, mackerel, mullet, pickerel, pike, place, smelts, trout, turbot, 
whitefish, whiting. SheU-fsh. — Crabs, cray=fish, lobsters, oysters 
prawn, shrimps, turtles, 

^8 



610 WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON BY MONTHS 

Fruit — Apjjles, cranberries, damsons, grapes, oranges, peaches, 
pears, plums, quinces, butternuts, chestnuts, walnuts. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN NOVEMBER. 

Vegetables. — Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, 
celery, cucumbers, kale, lettuce, onions, potatoes, sweet potatoes, 
pumpkins, squash, spinach, turnips, various herbs. 

Meat. — Beef, mutton, pork, veal. 

Poultry — Chickens, geese, fowls, turkeys. 

Game. — Blackcock, goose, grouse, opossum, partridges, pheas- 
ants, quails, rabbits, snipe, venison, woodcock. 

Fish. — Bass, carp, chub, cod, dace, eels, flounder, haddock, hali- 
but, perch, pickerel, pike, jjlace, smelts, sprats, trout, turbot, white- 
fish, whiting. Shell fish. — Crabs, cray fish, lobster, oyster, prawns, 
shrimps. 

Fruit — Apples, cranberries, grapes, oranges, peaches, quinces, 
almonds, filberts, butternuts, chestnuts, walnuts. 

FOODS IN SEASON IN DECEMBER. 

Vegetables. — Beans, beets, brocoli, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, 
kale, onions, potatoes, sweet potatoes, parsnips, i^umpkins, squash, 
turnips. 

Meat. — Beef, mutton, jDork, veal. 

Poultry — Chickens, geese, pigeons, fowls, turkeys. 

Game. — Bear, goose, grouse, opossum, partridges, pheasants, 
quail, rabbits, snipe, venison, woodcock. 

Fish. — Bass, carp, chub, cod, cusk, dace, eels, flounder, haddock, 
halibut, herring, ling, mullet, perch, joike, pickerel, place, smelts, 
sprats, trout, whitefish, whiting. Shellfish. — Crabs, cray=fish, lobsters, 
mussel, oysters, prawns, shrimps. 

Fruit. — Apples, cranberries, grapes, oranges, prunes, quinces, 
dried fruits, dates, figs, raisins, almonds, butternuts, chestnuts, wal- 
nuts. 



BILLS OF FARE. 

" It takes more brains to prepare a good dinner than it does to learn French 
and German or to write a good essay." 

VTT^HE woman who in addition to all the other cares of house- 
) I ^ keeping has to provide bills of fare for the family 3 times a 
^X day for 865 days in the year is often perplexed to know 

what to serve at each meal. To provide well for a family 
requires study and forethought, but it will amply repay the effort. 
In many homes there is a great lack of variety in the food prepared. 
The tendency to fall into ruts must be guarded against, as a well 
planned variety is most conducive to both the health and pleasure of 
the eaters. 

In preparing the food for a family there are 2 things to bear in 
mind: (1) A sufficient quantity of the essential food elements (al- 
bumenoicls, carbohydrates and fats) must be i^rovided for each mem- 
ber of the family, because, after all, the great object in eating is to 
furnish the system with the nourishment it needs to keep it in health 
and vigor, and this object is usually best attained by supplying a 
suitable variety of food. (2) The food should be so presented as to 
be both palatable and attractive to the eye, so that it may minister 
to the taste as well as the palate. This is quite as true of the 
plainest fare as of the most elaborate banquet, and these principles 
apply equally to both. We think our best course will be to exj^lain 
the general i^rinciples which underlie the arrangements of bills of 
fare, and leave our readers to apply those principles for themselves, 
although we will give some bills of fare for the different seasons of 
the year. 

Children should not be made to eat foods which do not agree 
with them, or which are really distasteful to them; neither should too 
much attention be paid to their whims, and they should be required 
to eat whatever wholesome food is set before them without making 
any senseless disturbance. 

Purchasing Provisions.— The housekeeper who would most suitably 
provide for her table should know what are the best products of the 
season, both vegetable and animal, and ordinarily it is best to buy 
when the supply is greatest and the price lowest. 

BREAKFAST. — The appetite is apt to be more capricious and 
variable at breakfast than at any other meal. It is best to plan for it 

611 



612 BILLS OF FARE 

the day before and endeavor to have it ho't and nutritious, as well as 
light and attractive. It makes a good deal of difPerence to the 
worker whether a right start is made in the morning or not. Melons 
or other fruit when in season are always suitable for breakfast, and 
fruit is well known to be more wholesome then than at any other 
time. Most families do not use fruits for breakfast half freely 
enough. 

It is not best to serve oatmeal more than 2 or 3 times a week, 
and even once a week is preferred by some; vary the fare from day 
to day by using in its place cracked wheat, hominy, or cornmeal 
mush. Eggs can be used freely in their season, and cooked in vari- 
ous ways, boiled, poached, fried, omelet, etc. Broiled fish of any 
kind is suitable, and in spring serve with it radishes or lettuce. 
Other suitable di.shes are salt fish with cream sauce; cold tongue, 
cold ham or any cold meat; mutton chops and an occasional steak; 
fricassee of chicken or veal, ham and eggs, and hash of any kind; 
hash on toast, and toast in any form, as milk, water or dry toast. 

Have potatoes cooked in various savory and attractive ways, as 
baked, Saratoga chips, etc. Have the bread light and well baked, 
and always have some kind of coarse bread, either hot or cold. Muf- 
fins, gems and griddle cakes are all relished and so are olives and 
pickles. 

For beverages coffee is the standby, with tea or milk for those 
who cannot drink coffee. 

ARRANGING A BILL OF FARE FOR DINNER.— While no 

bills of fare can be given which would be suitable for all our readers, 
because the state of the markets, the means and tastes of different 
families, and so on, would suggest numberless modifications, the rule 
for the formation of bills of fare can be easily explained. 

Among the mass of the people dinners will usually consist of 3 
courses: (1) Soup or fish. (2) The substantials of the meal, as 
meat and vegetables. (3) The dessert of pudding, pie, etc. Now 
even the most elaborate dinners are based on this same plan, and 
are only modifications and elaborations of it. 

A little thought will show that the arrangement of a well 
planned dinner, even though elaborate, is not arbitrary, but is based 
on a knowledge of foods and the best way to please the palate. 
Thus a highly flavored dish should never .be followed at once by an 
insipid one; therefore if there are 3 entries the most savory 
should be last. So, also, if 2 highly flavored dishes should come to- 
gether, if something like olives or a salad is served between them, it 
would freshen the palate and eiiliaftce the enjoyxiieQt of the second 
one, 



BILLS OF FARE 613 

We will give the plan of an elaborate dinner, and when the 
plan is once understood any reader can easily modify it to suit her 
circumstances. It should, however, be understood that the quality 
of a dinner does not depend on the number and cost of the dishes. 
Although they may be simple and few in number, if well cooked 
and tastefully presented the dinner may rank with the best. On 
the other hand let no one imagine that the manner of serving is of 
no importance. 

Very little more work, and no more expense is involved in 
serving a dinner tastefully than in a careless and indifferent manner, 
but the effect on the family is very different. If any reader feels 
that she does not understand these things, she should remember 
that she can learn. In the following plan we follow Mrs. Henderson 
in the main, as her outline is most excellent. 

1st Course. — Raw oysters, or little clams. 

2nd Course. — Soup of any kind. 

8rd Course. — Cold hors d'oeuvres; these are served as appetizers, 
and follow the squids. They consist of olives, cold slaw, raw cucum- 
bers, artichokes, radishes, sardines, anchovies, pickled beets or oys- 
ters, preserved herrings, figs, etc. 

4th Course. — Fish or shellfish of any kind. 

5th Course. — Hot hors croeuvres; these include the light entrees 
like sweetbreads, croquettes, vohauvents of meat or fish, etc. 

6th Course. — Releves or removes; these include the substantial 
dishes, such as roast beef, veal, mutton or lamb, roast turkey or 
chicken, venison, ham, etc. 

7th Course. — Entrees; these include cutlets of any kind, cro- 
quettes, fricassees, scallops, salni's, any game or meat made into 
side dishes, etc. 

8tli Course. — Entremets; these include any dressed vegetables 
served alone, such as corn, asparagus, spinach, artichokes, cauliflower, 
string' beans, fritters, macaroni, etc. 

9th Course. — Rotes (roasts); these include any kind of roast 
game. Salad is often served with this, and it is also often made a 
course by itself, and following immediately after. 

10th Course. — Cheese, cheese cakes or macaroni and cheese; this 
is often served with the salad. 

11th Course. — Sweet entremets; which includes pastry, puddings, 
jellies, creams, etc. 

12th Course. — Glaces; which include water ices, ice creams, etc. 

18th Course. — This consists of the fruits, nuts, raisins, etc. 
Then follows the coffee, with which crackers or littfe cakes often go. 

VEGETABLES TO SERVE 
WITH DIFFERENT MEATS AND FISH. 

There are a few combinations of dishes which by common con- 
sent go well together, and although some thoughtless peojjle joay lit- 
tle heed to them they are worth studying. The following list will be 



614 BILLS OF FARE 

helpful to young housekeepers by showing some of the most appro- 
priate vegetables to serve with different meats and fish. 

Beef, Corned. — Cabbage, carrots, beets, parsnips, potatoes, turnips, 
pickles. 

Beef, Roast. — Beets, beans, macaroni, jootatoes, boiled rice, squash, 
turnips, or any vegetables that are in season, horseradish, mushroom 
sauce. 

Beefsteak. — Beans, corn, peas, potatoes, parsnips, squash, toma- 
toes, or any other vegetables that are in season. Slices of lemon im- 
part a pleasant flavor. 

Birds of any Kind. — Beans, baked macaroni, mashed potatoes, tur- 
nips, currant or other acid jelly. 

Chicken, Boiled. — Lettuce, boiled rice, parsnips, potatoes, toma- 
toes, turnips, currant jelly, cranberry, celery or oyster sauce. 

Chicken, Roast. — Beans, beets, celery, corn, onions, baked pota- 
toes, squash, and any vegetable in season; currant or other acid jelly. 
Cauliflower is especially nice with fried chicken. 

Calf's Head. — Beans, dandelions, celery, macaroni, horseradish, 
parsnips, potatoes, spinach. 

Duck, Roast. — Baked macaroni, corn, beans, onions, mashed i^ota- 
toes, boiled rice, squash, apple sauce. 

Fowls, Roast. — Beans, corn, celery, onions, potatoes, squash, 
sweet potatoes, cranberry sauce 

Goose, Roast. — Beans, baked macaroni, onions, mashed potatoes, 
boiled rice, squash, turnips, apple sauce. 

Game. — This recjuires an acid jelly, while i^otatoes, tomatoes, 
spinach and salads are appropriate. 

Fish, Baked. — Beans, corn, lettuce, mashed potatoes, sweet pota- 
toes, squash, drawn butter or Hollandaise sauce. 

Fish, Boiled. — Potatoes, squash, turnips, tomatoes, horseradish, 
lemon, tomato sauce, or tartar sauce. 

Fish, Fried — Cucumbers, potatoes, squash, tomatoes, horseradish, 
sauce tartare. 

Lamb, Boiled. — Asparagus, peas, potatoes, spinach, turnips. 

Lamb Chops. — Asparagus, lettuce, potatoes, pickles, sweet pota- 
toes, turnips, tomato sauce. 

Lamb, Roast. String beans, corn, green peas, potatoes, summer 
squash, turnips, mint sauce. 

Mutton, Boiled.— Baked macaroni, potatoes (mashed), turnips 
(mashed), currant jelly, mint sauce. 

Mutton Chops.— Lettuce, potatoes, turnips, sweet potatoes, pickles, 
tomato sauce. 

Mutton, Roast. — Onions (boiled), turnips (mashed), potatoes 
(mashed), asparagus, cauliflower, spinach, green peas, currant jelly. 
Salad is served with it by the English. 

Pork, Roast. — Onions, boiled rice, jDotatbes, sweet potatoes, toma- 
toes, squash, apple sauce, or fried apples. 

With pork sausage send fried apples or apple sauce. 

Sweetbreads. — Peas, asparagus, cauliflower, tomatoes, macaroni 
and cheese. 



BILLS OF FARE 615 

Turkey, Boiled. — Lettuce, parsnix)s. potatoes, turnips, currant jelly, 
oyster, cranberry or celery sauce. 

Turkey, Roast. — Beans, corn, cold slaw, onions, potatoes, sweet 
potatoes, squash, tomatoes, turnips, cranberry, plum, currant, or 
other acid jelly. 

Veal, Boiled. — Macaroni and cheese, horseradish, mashed potatoes, 
spinach. 

Veal, Roast. — Asparagus, horseradish, parsnips, mashed potatoes, 
spinach, sweet iiotatoes. 

Veal Steak. — Lettuce, horseradish, potatoes, sijinach, sweet pota- 
toes. 

Venison, Roast — Onions, potatoes (mashed), squash, turnips, cur- 
rant or other acid jelly. 

Venison Steaks. — Parsnips, potatoes, sc^uash, tomatoes, turnips. 

Soup. — This is usually served alone, but crackers and pickles go 
well with oyster soup. Cold slaw can go with soup and be eaten 
with it, or after the soup plates are removed. The French serve thin 
slices of buttered brown bread with soup. Grated cheese goes well 
with macaroni and vermicelli souj), and boiled rice with gumbo soup, 
putting a spoonful in each i^late of soup. 



BILLS OF FARE. 

It is hoped that the following bills of fare which have been 
arranged with a view to palatableness, healthfulness and economy, 
may aid some busy housekeejjers who are often perplexed to knov/ 
what to serve for meals. 

BILLS OF FARE FOR JANUARY. 

SUNDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, veal cutlets, lyoimaise 
j)otatoes, buckwheat cakes, cotfee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roast sirloin of beef, horseradish sauce, 
browned potatoes, corn, mince pie, cheese, cofPee. 

Supper. — White bread, sardine salad, sliced oranges and bananas, 
angel's food, tea. 

MONDAY.— Breakfast — Fruit, cracked wheat, slices of cold beef, 
rolls, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, mutton choiDS, mashed potatoes, potato salad,- 
French dressing, cheese, floating island, coffee. 

Supper. — Tea biscuit, escalloped oysters, pickled peaches, stewed 
fruit, cake, tea. 

TUESDAY — Breakfast — Hominy, potato croquettes, boiled eggs, 
muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, fricassee of chicken, baked sweet potato, boiled 
rice, salad, pumj^kin pie, coffee. 



616 • BILLS OF FARE 

Supper. — French rolls, veal omelet, potato salad, sponge cake, tea 
or chocolate. 

WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, wheat grits, sausage, corn- 
meal cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast spare rib, apple sauce, baked pota- 
toes, stewed tomatoes, salad, squash pie, cotf'ee or tea. 

Supper.— Sliced spare rib, brown bread and butter, canned fruit, 
cake, tea. 

THURSDAY — Breakfast.— Fruit, oatmeal, creamed codfish, baked 
potatoes, graham gems, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soui3, boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, boiled rice, 
cauliflower, salad, bread pudding, coffee or tea. 

Supper. — French rolls, veal omelet, pickled peaches, ste^^ed 
prunes, gingerbread, tea. 

FRIDAY. — Breakfast — -Fruit, farina, broiled white fish, fried po- 
tatoes, corn bread, coffee. 

Dinner.— Bean soup, baked halibut, Hollandaise sauce, Saratoga 
potatoes, stewed tomatoes, cabbage salad, apple pie, lady fingers, 
coffee. 

Supper. — Cold mutton, bechamel sauce, creamed potatoes, cold 
slaw, orange fritters, tea. 

SATURDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, fried tripe, cream 
sauce, omelet, griddle c»akes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, rolled steak, brown sauce, mashed pota- 
toes, baked sweet potatoes, celery, baked custard, coffee. 

Supper. — White bread and butter, egg omelet, potato balls, apple 
sauce, lemon cake, tea or chocolate. 

BILLS OF FARE FOR FEBRUARY. 

SUNDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, mutton chops, muffins, 
griddle cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast turkey, cranberry sauce, boiled rice, 
baked sweet potatoes, canned corn, celery salad, mince pie, cheese, 
coffee. 

Supper — Bread and milk, crackers toasted with cheese, fruit, 
cake, tea. 

MONDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, cold turkey, buckwheat 
cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Clear soup, baked ham, apple sauce, boiled potatoes, 
baked sweet potatoes, cold slaw, rice pudding, cheese, coffee. 

Supper. — Baked oysters, fried hominy, graham bread and butter, 
cake, tea. 



BILLS OF FARE 617 

TUESDAY Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, slices of cold liam, 

eggs, wheat gems, coffee. 

Dinner — Oyster soup, broiled sirloin, mashed potatoes, canned 
corn, celery, pumpkin pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Egg omelett, Saratoga potatoes, broM-n bread and but- 
ter, stewed prunes, cake, chocolate or tea. 

WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit farina, eggs and bacon, wheat 
cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, boiled corn beef, boiled jjotatoes, cabbage, beets, 
oyster salad, apple pie, cheese, coffee. 

Supper. — Chicken salad, toasted crackers, white bread, olives, 
lemon cake, tea. 

THURSDAY. — Breakfast.— Fruit, oatmeal, corn beef hash, wheat 
cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Celery soup, fricassee of chicken, cream sauce, rice cro- 
quettes, peas, boiled potatoes, beet salad, corn^starch blanc mange, 
coffee. 

Supper. — Slices of cold corn beef, scrambled eggs, brown bread, 
cake, tea. 

FRIDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, poached eggs on toast, baked 
potatoes, graham mufhns, coffee. 

Dinner. — Bean soup, baked cod, egg sauce, mashed jootatoes, 
baked cabbage, potato salad, suet pudding, hard sauce, cheese, coffee 
or tea. 

Supper. — Roast oysters, French rolls, canned peaches, chocolate 
cake. tea. 

SATURDAY. — Breakfast — Fruit, hominy, sausage, baked pota- 
toes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, Irish stew, baked sweet potatoes, cold 
slaw, celery, prune pudding, chees^^, coffee. 

Supper. — Lobster salad, brown bread and butter, canned fruit 
cake, tea. 

BILLS OF FARE FOR MARCH. 

SUNDAY.— Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked Avheat, scrambled eggs, 
baked potatoes, buttered toast, coffee. 

Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast duck, currant jelly, boiled potatoes, 
sweet potato croquettes, squash, white turnips, cranberry jjie, coffee. 

Supper. — Sardines, graham bread and butter, preserves, cake, tea, 

MONDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cerealine. slices of cold duck, fried 
potatoes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, cold duck, a^^ple sauce, Saratoga pota- 
toes, peas, salad, tapioca pudding, coffee. 



618 BILLS OF FARE 

Supper. — Potato salad. broMii bread and butter, baked apples, 
cake, tea. 

TUESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, codfish with cream, 
baked potatoes, buttered toast, cotfee. 

Dinner.— Oyster soup, boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, mashed 
potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, spinach, baked Indian pudding, 
cheese, coffee. 

Supper. — Slices of cold mutton, potato salad, graham liread, 
stewed fruit, cake, tea. 

WEDNESDAY. -Breakfast. — Fruit, cornmeal mush, slices of cold 
mutton, stewed potatoes, gems, cofPee. 

Dinner. — Soup, beefsteak, Saratoga potatoes, macaroni with 
cheese, salad, custard pie, cheese, coffee. 

Supper. — Hash, Saratoga potatoes, brown and white bread, jelly, 
cake, tea. 

THURSDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, jjoached eggs on toast, 
baked potatoes, gems, coffee. 

Dinner. — Bean soup, scalloped veal, potato balls, cream sauce, 
stewed celery, salad, corn=starch pudding, coffee. 

Supper. — Scrambled eggs, brown bread, sliced oranges and sugar, 
cake, tea. 

FRIDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, hash, graham gems, wheat 
cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Clam soup, boiled salmon, drawn butter sauce, boiled 
potatoes, boiled rice, pickled turnips, suet pudding, coffee. 

Supper. — Lobster salad, cheese omelet, graham bread, preserves, 
cake, tea 

SATURDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, mutton chops, 
baked lootatoes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roasi fillet of veal, cream sauce, Sara- 
toga potatoes, stewed celery, baked sweet potatoes, lemon pie, 
cheese, coffee. 

Supper. — Slices of cold veal, potato salad, brown bread, cookies, 
cake, tea. 

BILLS OF FARE FOR APRIL. 

SUNDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, ham, omelet, Saratoga 
potatoes, rice, gems, cotfee. 

Dinner. — Soup, roast mutton, boiled potatoes, stewed tomatoes, 
baked macaroni, lettuce salad, custard pie, cheese, cotfee. 

Supper. — Slices of cold mutton, brown bread and butter, baked 
apples, cake, tea. 

MONDAY.— Breakfast — Fruit, farina, codfish balls, baked pota- 
toes, muffins, coffee. 



BILLS OF FARE 619 

Dinner. — Soup, mutton stew on toast, boiled potatoes, boiled 
macaroni, cold slaw, tapioca pudding, coffee. 

Supper. — Scrambled eggs, white and graham bread, preserves, 
cake, tea. 

TUESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, mutton chops, 
fried potatoes, gems, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, veal croquettes, bechamel sauce, mashed potatoes, 
stewed tomatoes, cabbage salad, lemon pie, cheese, coffee. 

Supper. — Oyster stew, white bread and crackers, stewed fruit, 
cake, tea. 

WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cornmeal mush, egg omelet, 
baked potatoes, buckwheat cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, fried steak, horseradish, mashed potatoes, canned 
corn, potato salad, cream pie, cheese, coffee. 

Supper. — Beef hash, brown bread and butter, bananas and cream, 
cake, tea. 

THURSDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, creamed dried beef. 
Lyonnaise potatoes, jjop overs, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, boiled 
cabbage, cucumber salad, apple pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Cold corn beef, white and graham bread, lerLon jelly, 
cake, tea. 

FRIDAY.— Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, corn beef hash, 
Saratoga ijotatoes, johnny cake, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, baked shad, fish sauce, boiled potatoes, fried 
parsnips, cabbage salad, bread pudding, coffee. 

Supper. — Stuffed eggs, white and graham bread, preserves, cake, 
tea. 

SATURDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, poached eggs, baked 
potatoes, rye muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, veal cutlets, breaded, tomato sauce, mashed po- 
tatoes, turnips, baked cabbage, tomato salad, baked custard, coffee. 

Supper. — Boston baked beans, brown bread, canned fruit, choc- 
olate cake, tea. 

BILLS OF FARE FOR MAY. 

SUNDAY — Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, veaL cutlets lyon- 
naise potatoes, rolls, c ee. 

Dinner. — Rice soup, baked spring chicken, boiled potatoes, peas, 
lettuce salad, taj)ioca pudding, coffee. 

Supper. — Cold chicken, potato salad, brown bread and butter, 
cake, fruit, tea. 



620 BILLS OF FARE 

MONDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, baked hash, fried hom- 
iny, miithns, cofPee. 

Dinner. — Tomato souij, veal and ham pie, creamed potatoes, peas, 
cabbage salad, charlotte russe, cheese, coffee. 

Supper. — Poached eggs on toast, Saratoga chips, white bread, 
preserves, cake, tea. 

TUESDAY. Breakfast. — Fruit, cornmeal mush, ham and eggs, 
baked potatoes, toast, coffee. 

Dinner. — Pea soup, boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce, mashed 
potatoes, boiled rice, lettuce vrith French dressing, lemon pie, cheese, 
cofPee. 

Supper. — Lobster salad, Boston brown bread, stewed rhubarb, 
cake, tea. 

WEDNESDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, farina, dried beef with cream, 
fried i^otatoes, wheat gems, coffee. 

Dinner — Soup, roast lamb, mint sauce, boiled potatoes, aspara- 
gus, peas, tomato salad, custard i^ie, cheese, coffee. 

Supper. — Hash on toast, potato salad, white and graham bread, 
fruit, cake, tea. 

THURSDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, hominy, codfish balls, baked 
potatoes, griddle cakes, cofPee. 

Dinner. - Macaroni soup, braised liver, mashed potatoes, string 
beans, cold slaw, bread pudding, cheese, cofPee. 

Supper. — Macaroni croquettes, cream sauce, brown bread, fruit, 
cake, tea. 

FRIDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, fried trout, omelet, Sara- 
toga ijotatoes, wheat cakes, cofPee. 

Dinner.— Soup, boiled halibut, sauce tartare, mashed potatoes, 
dandelion greens, lettuce with French dressing, rhubarb pie, cheese, 
cofPee. 

Supper. — Macaroni and cheese, white and graham bread, apple 
sauce, gingerbread, tea. 

SATURDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, lamb chops, 
baked potatoes, wheat cakes, cofPee. 

Dinner. — Bean soup, veal pot pie, potato croquettes, asparagus, 
cream sauce, cabbage salad, cottage pudding, cofPee. 

Supper. — StufPed eggs, brown bread and butter, fruit, cake, tea 

BILLS OF FARE FOR JUNE. 

SUNDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, veal cutlets, baked pota- 
toes, wheat cakes, cofPee. 



BILLS OF FARE 621 

Dinner. — Tomato soui3, roast lamb, mint sauce, mashed potatoes, 
asparagus on toast, peas, lettuce, lemon pie, strawberries and cream, 
coffee. 

Supper. — Sardines, lettuce salad, white bread, fruit, cake, tea. 

MONDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, egg omelet, fried 
potatoes, graham gems, coifee. 

Dinner. — Pea soup, veal croquettes, mashed jjotatoes, boiled rice, 
spinach, apple pie, cheese, coffee. 

Supper. — Strawberry shortcake, hot rolls, tea. 

TUESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, stewed codfish, cream 
sauce, baked potatoes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Macaroni soup, lamb chops, mashed potatoes, stewed 
tomatoes, asparagus salad, rice pudding, cheese, coffee. 

Supper.— Clam fritters, potato salad, brown bread, cake, tea. 

WEDNESDAY Breakfast.— Fruit, hominy, hash on toast, baked 

potatoes, graham gems, coffee. 

Dinner. — Clear soup, broiled steak, mashed potatoes, baked toma- 
toes, cream sauce, lettuce with French dressing, cheese, rhubarb pie, 
coffee. 

Supper. — Scrambled eggs, brown and white bread, strawberries 
and cream, tea. 

THURSDAY.— Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, lamb chops, fried pota- 
toes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Celery soup, roast sirloin of beef, tomato sauce, mashed 
potatoes, boiled sijinach, lettuce salad, cheese, strawberries and 
cream, coffee. 

Supper. — Egg omelet, tomato salad, Saratoga chips, berries, cake, 
tea. 

FRIDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, stewed codfish, 
cream sauce, baked potatoes, graham gems, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, fried mackerel, fennel sauce, boiled 
potatoes, stewed tomatoes, asparagus, cucumber salad, cheese, choc- 
olate pudding, coffee. 

Supper. — Strawberry shortcake, muffins, cheese, tea. 

SATURDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, chipped beef and cream, 
baked potatoes, rolls, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, veal croquettes, mashed potatoes, boiled 
rice, boiled spinach, potato salad, cheese, lemon pie, coffee. 

Supper — Deviled crabs, brown bread and butter, stawberries and 
cream, cake, tea. 

BILLS OF FARE FOR JULY. 

SUNDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, inutton chops, 
baked potatoes, gems, coffee. 



622 BILLS OF FARE 

Dinner. — Clear soup, fricasseed chicken, mashed i)otatoes, aspara- 
gus, corn, cabbage salad, cheese, lemon pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Cold meat, bread and butter, strav\'berries and cream, 
cake, tea. 

MONDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, egg omelet, baked pota- 
toes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Tomato soup, cutlets, horseradish sauce, boiled pota- 
toes, green peas, celery, cheese, fruit dumpling, coffee. . 

Supper. — Potato salad, brown bread and butter, berries and 
cream, cake, tea. 

TUESDAY Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, hash on toast, fried pota- 
toes, rolls, coffee. 

Dinner. — Pea soup, mutton cutlets, bechamel sauce, mashed pota- 
toes, green corn, cauliflower, cabbage salad, cheese, cherry pie, coffee. 

Supper.— Lobster salad, Saratoga chips, soda biscuit, cake, tea. 

WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cornmeal mush, cold meat, 
fried potatoes, wheat gems, coffee. 

Dinner. — Bean soup, roast veal, mint sauce, boiled potatoes, 
stewed tomatoes, parsnips, celery, cheese, apple dumpling, coffee. 

Supper. — Hash on toast, graham bread and butter, berries with 
cream, cake, tea. 

THURSDAY Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, veal cutlets, baked pota- 
toes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Macaroni soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, boiled 
cabbage, carrots, lettuce salad, cheese, bread pudding, coffee. 

Supper.— Poached eggs on toast, brown bread and butter, water- 
melon, tea. 

FRIDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, codfish balls, fried 
potatoes, rolls, coffee. 

Dinner.— Celery soup, boiled mackerel, egg sauce, mashed pota- 
toes, corn, peas, potato salad, cheese, custard pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Berry shortcake, bread and butter, cheese, cake, tea. 

SATURDAY.- Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, i^oached eggs on toast, 
Saratoga potatoes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner.— Vegetable soup, saddle of mutton, mashed potatoes, 
green corn, peas, lettuce, cheese, rhubarb pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Cold meat, brown bread and butter, Saratoga chips, 
currant tarts, tea. 

BILLS OF FARE FOR AUGUST. 

SUNDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, oatmeal, codfish balls, potato chips, 
muffins, coffee. 



BILLS OF FARE 623 

Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast goose, apple sauce, mashed potatoes, 
turnips, asparagus, lettuce, cheese, lemon pie, cofPee. 

Supper. — Cold meat, bread and butter, bananas and cream, cake, 
tea. 

MONDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, hash on toast, baked 
potatoes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roast mutton, caper sauce, boiled pota- 
toes, peas, corn, cauliflower, lettuce salad, cheese, rhubarb pie, 
coffee. 

Supper. — Scrambled eggs, soda biscuit, peaches and cream, cake, 
tea. 

TUESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, ham and eggs, Saratoga 
potatoes, gems, coffee. 

Dinner. —Celery soup, roast lamb, mint sauce, mashed potatoes, 
green peas, asparagus, potato salad, cheese, baked custard, coffee. 

Supper. — Blackberry shortcake, rolls, cheese, cake, tea. 

WEDNESDAY — Breakfast.— Fruit, homiry, veal cutlets, baked 
potatoes, cornmeal griddle cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Pea soup, veal croquettes, mashed potatoes, artichokes, 
turnips, celery, cheese, apple pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Potato salad, muffins, baked apples and cream, cake, 
tea. 

THURSDAY. — Breakfast — Fruit, oatmeal, egg omelet, Lyonnaise 
potatoes, rolls, coffee. 

Dinner. — Bean soup, fried chicken, cauliflower sauce, boiled pota- 
toes, boiled rice, peas, lettuce salad, cheese, blueberry pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Omelet, bread and butter, blueberries and milk, cake, 
tea. 

FRIDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, boiled eggs, baked 
potatoes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, fish chowder, mashed potatoes, aspara- 
gus, summer salad, cheese, rhubarb pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Raspberry shortcake, muffins, peaches and crean^i, cake, 
tea. 

SATURDAY — Breakfast.— Fruit, farina, mutton chop)s, Lyonnaise 
potatoes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roast beef, Hollandaise sauce, boiled 
potatoes, corn, carrots, celery, cheese, cherry pie, coffee. 

Supper — Baked beans, brown bread and butter, fried potatoes, 
cheese, blanc mange, cake, tea. 

BILLS OF FARE FOR SEPTEMBER. 

SUNDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, oatmeal, veal cutlets, baked pota- 
toes, muffins, coffee. 



624 BILLS OF FAEE 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roast turkey, currant jelly, mashed pota- 
toes, baked sweet potatoes, string beans, succotash, lettuce, cheese, 
apple pie, cotfee. 

Supper. — Cold meat, brown bread and butter, fruit, cake, tea. 

MONDAY, — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, mutton chops, 
Saratoga potatoes, gems, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, beefsteak, boiled potatoes, boiled squash, 
cucumbers, salad, cheese, lemon pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Lobster salad, brown bread and butter, bananas and 
cream, cake, tea. 

TUESDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, farina, hash on toast, baked 
l)otatoes, muffins, coff'ee. 

Dinner. -Tomato souid, roast veal, mashed potatoes, boiled par- 
snips, stewed tomatoes, cabbage salad, cheese, baked apple dump- 
ling, coffee. 

Supper. — Fried oysters, cream of tartar biscuits, fruit, cake, tea. 

WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast — Fruit, hominy, egg omelet, fried 
potatoes, wheat cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, boiled 
cabbage, turnips, pickles, cheese, apple pie, coff'ee. 

Supper. — Corn beef hash, soda biscuit, fruit, cake, tea. 

THURSDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cornmeal mush, hash, baked 
potatoes, rolls, coffee. 

Dinner. — Bean soup, roast mutton, caper sauce, mashed potatoes, 
spinach, green peas, lettuce salad, cheese, baked Indian pudding, 
cotfee. 

Supper. — Poached eggs on toast, graham bread and butter, fruit, 
cake, tea. 

FRIDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, fried mush, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Pea soup, boiled haddock, tomato sauce, mashed pota- 
toes, asparagus, string beans, celery, cheese, squash pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Scrambled eggs, bread and butter, marmalade, cake, tea. 

SATURDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, beefsteak, baked 
potatoes, wheat cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, roast sirloin of beef, horseradish sauce, 
boiled potatoes, succotash, cabbage salad, cheese, baked custard, cof- 
fee. 

Supper.— Cold meat, soda biscuit, preserves, cake, tea. 



BILLS OF FARE 625 

BILLS OF FARE FOR OCTOBER. 

SUNDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal veal cutlets, baked pota- 
toes, rolls, cotfee. 

Dinner — Vegetable soup, roast chicken, mashed potatoes, corn, 
cauliflower, cabbage salad, cheese, apple roll, coffee. 

Supper. — Sardines, toast, fruit, cake, tea. 

MONDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, poached eggs on 
toast, baked potatoes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, mock duck, boiled i^otatoes, stewed tomatoes, 
corn, cucumber pickles, lettuce salad, cheese, apple pie, grapes, 
coffee. 

Supper. — Potato salad, graham bread and butter, cheese, baked 
sweet apples, ginger snaps, tea. 

TUESDAY.— Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, hash, Indian meal grid- 
dle cakes, rolls, coffee. 

Dinner. — Tomato soup, roast mutton, caper sauce, boiled potatoes, 
artichokes, stewed celery, cabbage salad, cheese, lemon pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Oyster stew, crackers, bread and butter, preserves, cake, 
tea. 

WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, egg omelet, muffins, 
coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, veal pot pie, mashed potatoes, baked sweet pota- 
toes. parsni^Ds, potato salad, cheese, bread j)udding, coffee. 

Supper. — Macaroni croquettes, Saratoga potatoes, brown bread 
and butter, sliced oranges, tarts, tea. • 

THURSDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, chipped beef and 
cream, baked potatoes, gems, coffee. 

Dinner. — Pea soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, boiled cab- 
bage, turnips, celery, cheese, boiled apple dumpling, coffee. 

Supper — Oyster stew, crackers, bread and butter, stewed fruit, 
cake, tea. 

FRIDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, codfish balls, cornmeal 
griddle cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup; baked white fish, drawn butter sauce, 
mashed potatoes, baked sweet potatoes, squash, carrot salad, pump- 
kin pie, coffee. 

Supper — Lobster salad, brown bread and butter, grapes, cake, tea 

SATURDAY — Breakfast — Fruit, hominy, mutton chops, Sara- 
toga potatoes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Pea soup, roast beef, tomato sauce, boiled potatoes, 
baked sweet potatoes, squash, celery, cheese, custard pie, coffee. 

Supper — Baked beans, Boston brown bread, baked apples, cake, 
tea. 

40 



626 BILLS OF FAEE 

BILLS OF FARE FOR NOVEMBER. 

SUNDAY — Breakfast.— Fruit, oatmeal, veal cutlets, baked pota- 
toes, muffins, cotiee. 

Dinner — Celery soup, roast goose, apple sauce, mashed potatoes, 
stewed tomatoes, olives, celery, lima beans, cheese, apple rolls, coffee. 

Supper. — Cold meat, cornmeal mush and milk, bread and butter, 
bananas and cream, tea. 

MONDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, codfish and cream, fried 
potatoes, buckwheat cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Pea soup, roast lamb, mint sauce, boiled potatoes, mac- 
aroni and cheese, potato salad, cheese, baked custard, coffee. 

Supper. — Oyster fritters, Lyonnaise potatoes, bread and butter, 
canned fruit, cake, tea. 

TUESDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cracked wheat, mutton chops, 
muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Tomato soup, saddle of mutton, currant jelly, mashed 
potatoes, asparagus, corn, celery, cabbage salad, cheese, pumpkin 
pie, cofPee. 

Supper. — Cold mutton, Saratoga potatoes, bread and butter, 
quince jelly, cake, tea. 

WEDNESDAY. — Breakfast. — Fruit, farina, poached eggs on toast, 
])aked potatoes, gems, cotfee. 

Dinner. — Soup, boiled corn beef, boiled potatoes, boiled cabbage, 
turnips, beet salad, cheese, baked Indian jjudding, cotfee. 

Supper. — Stewed oysters, bread and butter, canned fruit, cake, 
tea. 

THURSDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, oatmeal, corn beef hash, fried 

X^otatoes, toast, coffee. 

Dinner. — Bean soup, roast beef, mashed potatoes, baked sweet po- 
tatoes, tomatoes, celery, cheese, apple dumi^ling, coffee. 

Supper. — Sardine salad, Saratoga potatoes, brown bread and but- 
ter, fruit, cake, tea. 

FRIDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, cornmeal mush, stewed codfish, 
fried x^otatoes, wheat cakes, cotfee. 

Dinner. — Vegetable soup, broiled mackerel, maitre d' hotel butter, 
mashed potatoes, cauliflower, potato salad, cheese, pumpkin pie, 
cofPee. 

Supper — Macaroni croquettes, tomato sauce, graham bread and 
butter, gingerbread, tea. 

SATURDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, oatmeal, hash on toast, baked 
potatoes, fried mush, coffee. 



BILLS OF FARE 627 

Dinner. — Soup, roast mutton, caper sauce, Saratoga potatoes, car- 
rots, parsnips, cheese, squash pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Croquettes, Lyonnaise potatoes, brown bread, stewed 
prunes, cake, tea. 

BILLS OF FARE FOR DECEMBER. 

SUNDAY — Breakfast.— Fruit, oatmeal, mutton chops, fried pota- 
toes, hot rolls, coffee. 

Dinner. — Bean soup, roast beef, mashed potatoes, corn, stewed 
celery, cauliflower, cheese, mince pie, coffee. 

Supper. — Scalloped oysters, hot biscuits, apple sauce, cake, tea. 

MONDAY.— Brealtfast — Fruit, boiled rice, cold beef, baked pota- 
toes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. — Asparagus soup, boiled leg of mutton, caper sauce 
boiled potatoes, cauliflower, stewed tomatoes, winter salad, cheese, 
baked custard, coffee. 

Supper. — Cold mutton, potato salad, brown bread, stewed fruit 
gingerbread, tea. 

TUESDAY — Breakfast. — Fruit, hominy, hash on toast, Saratoga 
potatoes, muffins, coffee. 

Dinner. —Soup, veal cutlets, tomato sauce, mashed potatoes, spin- 
ach, celery, cheese, apple fritters, coff'ee. 

Supper. — Fried oysters, hot rolls, baked apples, cake, tea. 

WEDNESDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, beefsteak, 
baked potatoes, buckwheat cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, roast goose, apple sauce, mashed potatoes, stewed 
tomatoes, celery, cheese, squash i^ie, coffee. 

Supper. — Poached eggs, Welsh rarebit, white bread, sliced 
oranges, cake, tea, 

THURSDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, cornmeal mush, fried tripe, 
baked potatoes, cornmeal griddle cakes, coffee. 

Dinner. — Soup, broiled rump steak, brown sauce, mashed pota- 
toes, fried turnips, celery, boiled salad, cheese, bread pudding, 
coffee. 

Supper. — Cold meat, bro\vn bread and butter, canned peaches, 
cake, tea. 

FRIDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, oatmeal, ham and eggs, fried mush, 
coffee. 

Dinner — Tomato soup, baked haddock, drawn butter sauce, 
boiled potatoes, corn, cauliflower, baked Indian pudding, cheese, 
coffee. 

Supper — Macaroni croquettes, tomato sauce, broNvn bread and 
butter, cake, tea. 



628 BILLS OF FARE 

SATURDAY.— Breakfast.— Fruit, cracked wheat, codfish balls, 
baked potatoes, griddle cakes, coffee. 

Dinner — Pea soup, chicken pot pie, mashed potatoes, pickled 
carrots, baked sweet potatoes, cabbage salad, cheese, lemon pie, 
coffee. 

Supper. — Baked beans, Boston brown bread, canned fruit, cake, 
tea 

Thanksgiving Dinner. 



Oysters on the Half Shell. 

Cream of Celery Soup. 

Roast Turkey. Cranberry sauce. 

Mashed Potatoes, Baked Squash. Stewed onions. 

Corn, Celery Olives. Pickles. 

Mince Pie. Pumpkin Pie. Cheese. 

Fruit, Nuts. Raisins. 

Coffee. 

Christmas Dinner. 



Raw Oysters. 
Tomato Soup. 
Boiled Cod, Sauce Tartare. 

Potato Balls. Pickles. 

Roast Turkey with Chestnut Stuffing. Cranberry Jelly. 

Mashed Potatoes, Asparagus. Winter Salad. 

Canvassback Duck. Currant Jelly. 

Potato Croquettes. Fried Hominy. 

Plum Pudding. Mince Pie. Lemon Pie. Cheese. 

Ice Cream, Cake, 

Fruits. Nuts. Raisins- 

Coffee. 



GARNISHING FOOD. 

fT is very essential to the proper enjoyment of food that dishes 
and their surroundings should look nice. In the matter of 
garnishing, the average cook has much to learn. Of course the 
first requisite in modest homes is that the food should be good, 
well cooked, and neatly served. There never can be any excuse for 
untidy serving, for food set awry, grease in the wrong place, sauce 
spilt over the edges of the plate, or dirt. But it is a great mistake to 
suppose that because a dish looks very pretty it is necessarily an ex- 
pensive one. In garnishing and decorating dishes so much depends 
on taste that the most we can do is to give a few hints and sugges- 
tions to our readers. 

Harmony of colors must always be preserved. Most women 
have an instinctive appreciation of this, but those who do not should 
make a study of the matter if they wish to produce pleasing effects. 
Dishes which are prettily garnished appeal to the eye as well as the 
taste, and are much more likely to be eaten with zest. To invalids 
the appearance is a matter of very great importance, and it is by no 
means unimportant to the well and strong. 

SOUP. — If souj) contains any kind of vegetables let them be 
bright and contrast in color — red, green and white being the best 
color contrasts for soups. Try to get a few vegetables that will 
make a pretty contrast in the way of color — such as little squares of 
red carrot, white turnip, and a few green peas. Where there is a 
garden this is easily done. 

In cutting up carrots keep the bright red edges to put in soup, 
while the pale yellow inside will do for the stock pot. The stock 
will be just as good and the soup greatly improved in appearance. 
Peas and beans will furnish the contrasting green, but to insure their 
being a bright green they must be thrown into boiling water at i\v? 
start, otherwise they will turn a brownish color. Bits of turnip will 
furnish the white jDieces. 

Thick soups should be a rich dark brown, resembling chocolate. 
This can be obtained by using brown roux. If black pepjoer is used 
to flavor soup it will settle at the bottom like grit. In pouring soup 
into the tureen keep back the thick sediment, and utilize it in other 

629 



G30 



GARNISHING FOOD 




Fig. 1. BOILED TUKBOT GARNISHED 
WITH PARSLEY. 



ways. A white soup is more difficult to obtain, but a very little 
cream will insure it. 

With white soups the whiter they are the better. If you have 
no cream more milk must be used, the stock reduced, and the milk 
boiled separately to get a nice white color. 

A green soup, like green pea souj), should J>c green. A tea- 
spoonful of spinach coloring will turn a tureenful from a dirty yel- 
lowish green to a bright green, and the diflPerence in appearance is 
wonderful. 

FISH. — Flat white fish are best ornamented with lobster coral, 
parsley, and cut lemon. A slice 
of cut lemon makes a pretty gar- 
nish for fish. A little green jjars- 
ley can be laid on one piece, and 
a piece of lobster coral on another 
for a contrast. The accompany- 
ing illustration. Fig. 1, shows a 
" Boiled Turbot, Garnished with 
Parsley." 

A l)oiled white fish can be 
placed white side up; have a little 
dry chopped parsley ready, take a little on the point of a knife blade 
and knock the blade gently, so that the parsley will fall on the fish 
from a little height. Sprinkle on a little lobster coral in the same 
way, and the fish will be covered with little red and green specks. 
Place around it, alternately, fresh green parsley and cut lemon. 

If lobster coral is not at hand use one of the substitutes given 
towards the end of this chapter. Another combination of red and 
green colors can be made with pickled chillies and gherkins. 

Fish can also be gar- 
nished with fillets as 
shown in the accompany- 
ing illustration, Fig. 2, or 
with fried oysters, or oys- ^= " 

ters dipped in butter. ^ig- 2. salmon garnished with fillets. 

These can be arranged as a border around the dish or 2 or 3 placed 
on the fish. Other good borders are fried or fresh parsley, water 
cress, lettuce, sorrel leaves, and in winter- celery tops. Any of these 
can be used alone or alternating with slices of lemon. 

Slices of tomato make a good border. Pickled beets and carrots 
cut in dice or other figures, and used alternately, contrast prettily 




GARNISHING FOOD 



631 



Slices of hard=boiled eggs are also used, or the whites can be chop- 
ped and yolks passed through a sieve and s^jrinkled over the fish or 
built up in little pyramids of alternate colors. Button mushrooms 
are useful for ornamenting fish. 
So are potato balls, crayfish, 
lobster, etc. Our illustration, 
Fig. 8, shows an efPective way to 
garnish a middle piece of l)oiled 
salmon. Endless combinations 
can be made by any one having a 
little ingenuity and taste. 




Fig, 3. middle cut of salmon garnish- 
ed WITH PARSLEY. CRAY = FISH AND 
POTATO BALLS. 



OYSTER. — Raw oysters are garnished, as nearly every one 
knows, with slices of lemon, and scalloped oysters are garnished with 
parsley or curled lettuce. 

LOBSTER. — Boiled lobster can be garnished with slices of hard= 
boiled egij;, the white and yellow contrasting nicely with its red. 
Surround it with lettuce or other green leaves. 

JOINTS. In sending joints to the taljle endeavor to make them 
look attractive. A Ijoiled leg of mutton can be ornamented with 
young turnips and carrots arranged around it alternately. Another 
device is to cut turnips in half, scoop out the inside so as to form a 
cup, and fill the cups with chopped red carrot and boiled green 
peas, and place them alternately around the meat. The balance of 
the turnip and carrot can be boiled, mashed, and served up in the 
same dish in red and white strips. Brussels sprouts also ornament 
such a dish nicely, and boiled rice is often used. 

ROAST BEEF OR RUMP STEAK.— This can always be orna- 
mented with little bunches of scraped horseradish, and a litle X3iece 
of parsley set in the center of each white bunch is an improvement. 
Pickled beets and carrots, sliced and arranged alternately, are often 
used, and so are slices of lemon, celery tops or parsley, jellies of var- 
ious colors tastefully arranged, and Lyonnaise, Saratoga, and other 
preparations of potato. Truffles, tomatoes, cabbage, quenelles, 
asparagus, rice croquettes, etc., are also used. 

A fillet of beef can be garnished with stuffed tomatoes or onions, 
peas, Brussels sprouts, fried sweet potatoes, or mushrooms. 

ROAST VEAL — This should have a rich mahogany color out- 
side. It can be garnished like roast beef with slices of lemon, celery 
tops or parsley, pickled carrots or beets, various colored jellies, etc. 



632 



GARNISHING FOOD 



The appearance of cold veal is often improved greatly by glazint)^; 
then surround it with parsley. 

ROAST LAMB — This, either cold or hot, is often served with 
mint or mint sauce, and a little parsley improves the appearance. 

BEEFSTEAK. — This with 1 or 2 slices of lemon laid upon it is 
very nice, while parsley, onions, mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, 
Lyonnaise or Saratoga potatoes, are all appropriate and r^ften used. 
The flavor of lemon juice is by many people thought a great 
improvement to beefsteak. 

CUTLETS — These look best when of uniform size and a nice 
brown color. They can be garnished with mashed potato, button 
mushrooms, asparagus, Brussels sprouts, parsley, etc. 

Chops can be garnished with the same things, or either can ])e 
arranged around a mound or placed on a border of mashed pota- 
toes. 

TONGUE.— This can be 

served with artichokes, boiled 
rice, macaroni, stewed carrots, 
turnips, mashed XDotatoes, or 
with a pur^e of cauliflower, 
tomato, turnip, or spinach. 
Our illustration, Fig. 4, shows a 
tongue garnished with parsley 
and aspic jelly wdiich produces a pleasing effect. 

GAME — The larger varieties, like wild ducks, etc., are garnished 
with cranberry, or apple sauce, parsley or cresses, and slices of lemon 
or orange. The smaller varieties are usually garnished with currant 
jelly, i^arsley, slices of lemon, fried or roasted bread, barberries, etc. 
Jellies of various colors are also suitable for game. 

ROAST TURKEY, DUCKS, GEESE, AND FOWLS.—Tliese can 
be garnished with parsley, celery, 
and other green leaves, slices of lemon, 
links of fried sausage, fried oysters. 
forcemeat balls, horseradish, currant 
or cranberry jelly, etc. 

COLD FOWL — These are much 
improved by being glazed and then 
garnished with parsley. Aspic jelly 
is also admirably adapted for these 
meats. 




Fig. 4. tongue gaknished with paks- 
ley and aspic jelly. 




Fig .5. — roast tukkey, gaenished 
with pabsley and links of 

sausage. 



aARNISHING FOOD 63B 

COLD MEATS. — These can have the edge of the platter deco- 
rated with parsley, celery, cresses or lettuce, and jellies of various 
colors, while slices of lemon, pickled carrots and beets, anchovies, 
cucumbers etc., are all appropriate placed on or about them. 

SALADS — These can be garnished with hard=boiled eggs, the 
yolks and whites contrasting nicely. Some of the chopped whites 
can be changed to a fine red by shaking them in a saucer with a 
few drops of cochineal. Beet=root also makes a good red. Parsley 
and lobster coral are used at times, and so are olives arranged around 
the edge of the dish. Slices of lemon and capers are also suitable 
for salads. 

HASH AND SMALL ENTRIES.— These are served better from 
a small, deej) dish than from a large flat one. Hash not only looks 
better but keeps hot longer served in this way. 

ADDITIONAL HINTS.— A few further hints may be given about 
some of the articles used in garnishing foods. 

Anchovies. — These go w^ell with cold meats, and they make 
a good relish served on toast. 

Aspic Jelly. — This can be cut into various fancy shapes and used 
to garnish fish, cold meats, salads, etc. It can be used to form a 
border in connection with beets, carrots, hard-boiled eggs, etc., and 
many i^retty effects can thus be produced. 

Fried Bread. — This can be prepared by frying stale bread, which 
is free from crust, in lard or clarified butter. It can be cut into 
small squares for soups, or into triangles or circles for fish or meat. 
Or stale bread can be toasted very brown and cut up and used the 
same way. 

Bread Crumbs can be dried in the oven, slightly fried in a little 
butter, carefully drained, and i^iled in little heaps around game, 
etc. 

A Substitute for Lobster Coral.— The genuine coral not being always 
at hand, a substitute can be made by rubbing a piece of stale bread 
through a fine sieve, and shaking the crumbs on a plate with a few 
drops of cochineal which will turn them a bright red. They will an- 
swer as well as the lobster coral for many garnishes, and can be used 
the same way. A red chilli can he cut up and it will furnish little 
red specks for garnishing. 

Glaze — This is first class soup stock boiled down until it becomes 
sticky. It is applied to cooked meats to give then a smooth, glossy 
surface. Any clear soup stock can be boiled down for this purpose. 
It is applied with a brush or a little piece of cloth. If prepared and 



634 



GAKNISHING FOOD 




kept on hand, it should be melted for use by putting a little in a 
small dish set in a pan of boiling water. Glaze should not be too 
dark colored. Keej) it in a well covered jar. 

Lemon. — This is one 
of the best and most 
common garnishes. A 
nice way to use it is to 
cut slices of lemon as 
shown in the accompa- 
nying illustration at a; 
then cut in half as 
shown at h; then cut 
through the middle of 

tho yellow rind nearly to the center, spread the piece open and it 
will be held together by the center as shown at c. 

Parsley.^ This is one of the most common garnishes, being 
suital)le for fish, oysters, meat, cold or hot, salads, etc. 

Fried Parsley is fried crisjj by dipping it into butter nearly at the 
boil; if too hot the parsley will lose its color, and if not hot enough 
it will become sodden and limp. It is used to accomjDany rissoles, 
croquettes, etc. 



Fig. 6. slice of lemon. 



CARVING. 

^Tl^ARVING is an art — it is to be regretted that it is an art so 

I y^ little understood, for there are far too many poor and indif- 
\^ ferent carvers in the world. Every man and woman must at 
times he called on to carve, and they should certainly know 
how to do so proi^erly. A joint of meat will go very much farther, 
and the guests will be much better served when handled by a skilful, 
thnn by a poor and awkward carver. 

It is not difficult to learn to carve well, and it ought to be a part 
of the education of every boy and girl. Certainly it is an accom- 
plishment they may be proud to possess, and it will oft'?n save them 
from embarassment. Any one who will begin at the beginning and 
give the matter a little thoughtful study can master the art, and it 
will be of far more advantage in life than many other accomplish- 
ments to which much more time and thought are given. 

Before coming to the table the knife should be well sharpened 
and put in good condition. It will be very annoying to wait to 
sharpen the knife, and without having it sharp no one can carve 
well. Keep the carving knife for that purpose alone, and never use 
it to cut bread or other articles. During all pauses in carving, the 
knife and fork should l^e placed on the knife rests, and not thrust 
and left under the meat. 

It would be much better if instead of sending all the gravy to 
the table at first, a portion was reserved to be sent in hot for the "sec- 
ond help." To have the meat swimming in a platter full of gravy is 
not at all desirable. Many platters are now made with a well to 
receive and hold the gravy. When such a dish is not used, a crust of 
bread can be slipped under the platter to tip it a little and cause the 
gravy to run to one side, but to tilt ujj the plate with one hand, while 
the gravy is ladled out with the other, is considered inelegant. 

The dish upon which the article to be carved is placed should- 
be near the carver, so that he may have full control of it. If placed 
far away, ungracefulness in appearance and difficulty in performing 
the task are inevitable. Any display of exertion reflects either on 
the skill of the carver or the quality of the meat. Work deliberately 
and carefully, and try to divide the material so that all may be 
served equally well, and when serving the meat lay the best side up. 

635 



636 



CAKVINa 




The directions which we give, and the illustrations accompany- 
ing them, will make the best methods of carving clear. Always do 
the best you can w'hile carving, but as practice alone makes perfect, 
no opportunity to practice should be lost, for thus alone can the 
facility so essential to ease be acquired. 

TONGUE — This can be carved in either of 2 ways. One is to 
cut f of the way down, as shown by the 
line A B, and then cut thin, even slices A 

from each side, but this method is waste- 
ful. A more economical way is to cut 

clear through the tongue, and then cut %s-;__-/ ' g' '' '' ' '' '' ' 
slices from each half. A little fat should 
be cut from the root of the tongue and tongue. 

placed with each slice. Although it is 

not generally carved in that way, it will be an improvement if the tip 
of the tongue is cut lengthwise, in thin, even slices. 

SIRLOIN OF BEEF.— A sirloin of beef may be divided into 2 
parts - the underwent or fillet, and the toj) or rump. As the under=^ 
cut is T)est served hot, and as it is often sufficient to dine a small 
family, it is frequently carved 
first. Besides this it is thought 
that the top presents a better / J,- 

appearance when sent cold to '^ I ^^^ ^ >7p\ ^""^^"---^ -~- ^^S^ 
the table; some families, how- s^'O^^ iJft 
ever, prefer to reserve the un- _ %ljfsi.^^^!^^^^^s "^^% 
der^cut for a cold dinner next if £^"'1, s ^ ."^ Z^hM ^ 
day — it is purely a matter of ^^^'P.^^^b/''*''^'^ ' 
taste. ^ ^ '" * ^ ^ H^ ^- c 

If the under side is cut first, sirloin of beef. 

the best way is to remove the 

fat, E, which, if not eaten at the table, chops up well to make pud- 
dings. A portion of the fat should go with the lean to each guest. 
Then the meat can l)e cut in good even slices as shown by the dotted 
lines H. For the upper portion, first thrust in the knife and run it 
along the upper side of the bone from B to d, separating the meat. 
Then with a firm, even stroke, cut as shown by the dotted line A to c, 
cutting down clear to the bone. 

Each slice should be thin and even,, and the sirloin should cut 
fairly to the very end. Some persons cut across from i to J, but this 
is a wasteful plan, and not to be recommended. As the welhdone 
portion comes on the outside, and the rare in the center, a number of 




OAEVING 



637 




UltlSKEi' OF BEEF. 



slices should be cut ofp, and the guest offered his choice between rare 
and welldone. 

RIBS OF BEEF. — These are best cut in the manner described 
for the upper part of the sirloin. First thrust in the knife and sepa- 
rate the meat from the bone, and then cut from end to end (not 
across), cutting the meat in thin, even slices. 

BRISKET OF BEEF.— A 

brisket is very easy to carve — 
cut across as shown by the en- 
graving from A to B. Cut mod- 
erately thick slices, and evenly. 
with a firm hand, down to the 
bone, so that it will not have a 
rough and jagged look when re- 
moved. The carving knife used for joints of this character should 
not be too thin. 

ROUND OF BEEF.-In 

carving a round of beef, or 
ribs rolled, a long, thin, and 
very sharp knife should be 
used. A slice is cut off of the 
toj) leaving the surface flat, 
aud then very thin, even sli- 
ces should be cut across as 
shown in the direction A to B. 
A morsel of the fat should be served with each slice of the lean. 

BREAST OF VEAL — First separate a breast of veal into 2 
parts (it rightly consists of 
2, the rib bones and the 
gristly brisket) by passing 
the knife along sharply in 
the direction of from A to 
B. Then carve the rib 
bones as shown by E to f, 
while the gristle is carved 
by cutting as shown by the lines c to d. In a breast of veal, stewed, 
these are particularly tender and inviting, and should be offered to 
those who prefer it. A slice of the sweetbread, if it is served with 
the dish, should be given to each guest. 




ROUND OF BEEF. 




D D~ 

BKEAST OF VEAL. 



638 



CARVING 




NECK OF VEAL. 




LOIN OF VEAL. 



NECK OF VEAL.— If this 
is jointed by the butcher and a 
chop given to each one it serves 
them with a gigantic j)iece 
much of which will be wasted. 
The best way to carve it is to 
cut diagonally as shown by the 
dotted lines b to c, and help in 
slices of moderate thickness; 

you can then cut from c to d in order to separate the small bones., 
and divide and serve them, first inquiring, however, if they are de- 
sired. 

LOIN OF VEAL.— **«»- A 

This should be carved by 
cutting along the line in- 
dicated by A to B. If the 
butcher does his work well 
there is little difficulty, but 
if not it is hardly possible 
to carve it decently. When 
the loin is large, one chop 
will make two small helps; in this case the underwent, which is the 
tenderest part, should be put with the end, and the bone and upper 
left together. The kidney and kidney fat, which lie underneath, are 
considered great delicacies, and a piece should be given to each 
guest. The most economical way of serving loin of veal is to bone 
and roll it, when it can be cut in thin slices like a fillet. 

KNUCKLE OF VEAL.— 

Carve a knuckle of veal by 
simply cutting off slices as 
indicated by the line A to b. 
Cut clear to the bone, and oc- 
casionally cut along the bone 
and horizontally around it to 
clear the center. The best sli- 
ces are those from the thick- 
est part — that is near the end. 

SHOULDER OF VEAL. 

— This is sent to the table with the upper part placed uppermost. 
Serve it like a shoulder of mutton, beginning at the knuckle end 




KNUCKLE OF VEAL. 



CARVING 



639 




CALF S HEAD. 



FILLET OF VEAL. — This meat has a tendency to break and 
crumble, and should, therefore, be cut with a thin and very sharp 
knife, in the manner explained for a round of beef. The top, if it is 
well roasted, is a nice brown, and should be cut into small pieces, 
and a little served to each one, unless it is given as a courtesy to 
some favored guest. Place a little stuffing on each plate. 

CALF'S HEAD — Commence by making long slices from end 
to end of the cheek, cutting quite through to the bone, as shown by 
the dotted lines A to B. Serve with 
each slice a cut of what is called the 
throat sweetbread, which lies at the 
fleshy part of the neck end. Cut 
small slices also from c to d and 
serve small pieces with the meat; they 
are gelatinous and delicious. The 
tongue is served on a separate plate, 
surrounded by the brains, and is cut 
across in rather thin slices. OfPer 
some to each guest. To remove the 
eye insert the knife at- F, push it down to the center, and turn around 
as shown by the dotted line. This will bring it out cone shaped and 
entire. Some consider it a titbit. Then turn the plate and remove 
the jaw, beginning to cut at G. The palate is considered a dainty, 
and a little should be offered each one. 

HAUNCH OF MUTTON.— Have the dish placed so that the loin 
is nearest and the knuckle farthest from you. Then make an inci- 
sion from A to B with the point of the knife, holding it rather vq}- 
right. Then cut from A to c 
with a slanting cut, not more 
than ^ of an inch deep at A 
B, though it may go to . the 
bone in the middle. Let j 
each succeeding cut, shown 
by the dotted lines to c, be 
sloping; and the gravy will 

gather in the center, called the " well." Serve a spoonful of this 
gravy with each slice of meat. Be careful and not let the gravy run 
out into the dish. The fat will be found at c, and a little should be 
served with the meat. 

SADDLE OF MUTTON.— The tail end is divided in the illustra- 
tion, and the kidneys skewered under each division; this is not al- 




HAUNCH OF MUTTON. 



640 



CARVING 




SADDLE OF MUTTON. 



ways done, as it is a matter of taste. Carve a saddle of -mutton by 
cutting thin, even slices a- 
long each side of the center 
bone, in the direction A to b; 
help fat from c to D. You 
may help from the vertabrse 
on both sides the loin, and 
then carve crosswise, as mark 
ed in the engraving, which 
gives you both fat and lean. 
Help a slice of kidney to 
those who desire. It is best 

to have relays of very hot gravy served separately, as saddle of mut- 
ton very soon gets cold. The dish in which it is served, as well as 
the plates, should be very hot. 

NECK OF MUTTON— This is usually boiled, and then carved 
by cutting it into chops, as shown in the dotted line, and into j)ieces, 
by bringing the knife between the bones, at what is known as the 
scrag end. When the best end of the neck 
is roasted (this forms an admirable joint 
for 2 or 3 persons) it should be carved like 
a saddle of mutton, and the neck should 
not be jointed by the butcher (see remarks 
about that on carving the loin). When 
carved thus, nothing is wasted; the bones 
left on the platter will do for the stock=pot, 
while the scrapings, etc. Mall make a dish 
of mince. 




NECK OF MUTTON. 



LEG OF MUTTON.— The knife should be carried down sharply 
in the direction of the line A to B, and slices taken from either side, 
as the guests may desire. 



some liking the knuckle 
end because well done, and 
others preferring the rar- 
er parts. The fat should 
be sought near the line c 
to D. Some connoisseurs 
are fond of having this 
joint dished with the un- 
der side uppermost, so as 
to get at the finely grained meat lying underneath, 




LEG OF MUTTON. 



known as the 



CARVING 



641 



Pope's eye but that is an extravagant fashion of carving. When 
carved outside the room a leg of mutton can be cut in slices parallel 
with the bone, when it has the appearance of, and is practically, a 
haunch. 

SHOULDER OF MUTTON.— Commence carving from a to b 
taking out moderately thick slices in the shape of a wedge; some nice 
pieces may then be helped from the blade bone, from c to d, cutting 
on both sides of the bone. 

Cut the fat from E to f, cut- ^-. ^,-*«««*^'i^^^^^^- 

ting it in thin slices. Now vJ^!&. ^-n/^ ^^^^^ 

turn the joint and carve the \^ ^^^^ '• ^ "--^^» 

under side of the shoulder, \w || \ ^B^ 

as some of the choicer parts ^^mlli ' ^' ^m^ 

lie there. Cut horizontally ^rlii ^m 

from c to D. Some tender ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^p^ 

slices are met at e to f, but shoulder of mutton. 

they are cut as indicated. In 

carving this joint the tastes of those at the table should be consulted, 
as it has many titbits. It should be served hot, as it is very insipid 
when cold 

FORE=QUARTER OF LAMB— Place your knife near the 
knuckle, and cut along a, b, c, d, e. Pass your knife under, lift 
with the fork, and the shoulder will come away. Do not cut away 
too much meat from the 
breast, as that will spoil y'''^^:^^-»?'ss=S— =«„__ 

the aiDpearance. The juice /^ ,<^^^^ ^ — ^ ' \ 

of half a lemon is then \^ p{ g WjD | \ « 

squeezed under the shoul- \\li -^^^^, / i I I 

der, salt and pepper sprink- \-m ^^^^ / ' ' I 

led on, and a small piece of V^^^T^^^^^T •^~"'f^^"~f"i/ '^ 

butter added, and the parts '^^ ^^^^^^KmM^K,.. r.rj*.i (."''"" '-iIe 

reunited until the butter is ------ii t^^^^B^ 

melted, when the shoul- fore=quabtee of lamb. 

der is removed to another plate. Then separate the ribs from the 
brisket by cutting from F to e. Carve the ribs in the direction of i to 
K, and the brisket from g to H. Ask guests which part they pre- 
fer, ribs, brisket, or a piece of the shoulder, and serve accordingly. 

OTHER JOINTS OF LAMB— These are carved exactly like the 
corresponding joints of mutton, and our readers can refer to the di- 
rections given for those. 
41 



642 



OAKVING 




LOIN OF MUTTON. 



LOIN OF MUTTON.— The most economical way of carving^ a 
loin of mutton is to carve it like a saddle, by 
taking slices along the line a b. The end 
can be cut off before roasting, and will make 
a good stew. When carved in this way, how- 
ever, tell the butcher not to joint the meat, 
as each chop makes a gash that lets out the 
gravy. When the loin is jointed it is too oft- 
en served up in irregular chops, which are 
only half picked, and as much of the meat is 
wasted as is eaten. When it is jointed it is 
cut as indicated by the line c to d. 

LEG OF PORK.— Carve 

this like a leg of mutton, by 
cutting sharply down to the 
bone in the direction of A to b. 
Serve a piece of crackling with 
each slice. When the leg is 
stuffed ask if stuffing is liked, 
as many persons object to the 
flavor of onions. The best way 
to serve sage and onion stuffing, 
is separately in a sauce tureen. 
Also serve apple sauce, and some 
very hot gravy with it. 

LOIN OF PORK 

This should be properly 
jointed before cooking, and 
the crackling should be 
scored. Then carve from 
A to B, dividing it into 
neat and even chops. Stuf- 
fing is best served sepa- 
rately, as well as good hot 
gravy in tureens. Give a 
piece of crackling with each helj). 

HAM. — The carver must judge whether he wishes to be guided 
by economy, or to get the prime slices at once. On the former plan 
he will begin at the knuckle end c to d, and work gradually back 




LEG OF PORK. 




LOIN OF POBK. 



CARVING 



643 




into the ham, cutting off thin even slices, and leaving the knuckle 
bone bare. On the other 
plan he will begin by cut- 
ting at A to B, and carve 
thin, wedge shaped slices, 
going clear to the bone, 
and working on the side 
away from the knuckle. 
The knife should be very 
sharp and thin, and the ex- 
perienced carver prefers 

one which has been worn down narrow as well as thin. A third plan 
is to cut a circular hole at the top E, and slice pieces off inside the 
hole, gradually enlarging the circle, but the other plans are generally 
considered preferable. Send ham to the table with the knuckle or- 
namented with a paper frill, as shown in our illustration, if con- 
venient. 

SUCKING PIG. — This is usually sent to the table as snown in 
our illustration. First cut off the shoulder by bringing the knife 
round as shown by the 
dotted line A, b, c. Then 
cut off the hind leg by 
cutting as shown by the 
dotted line a, b, c. The 
ribs can now be easily cut 
down in the direction d to 
E. The other half is, of 
course, carved in the same 
way. The x^ig is some- 
times sent to the table 
whole In that case first cut off the head. Then cut directly down 
the center of the back from neck to tail, dividing the pig in two. 
Then proceed as above. A sucking pig is considered delicious eat- 
ing, but different parts are variously esteemed, and the carver should 
consult the preferences of his guests. Give a portion of the crack- 
ling to each one. 

HAUNCH OF VENISON — The manner of carving this is identi- 
cal with that of a haunch of mutton. See the explanation given for 
that. 

NECK OF VENISON.— A neck if it is kept just long enough, 
but not too long, is equal to a haunch. The neck, however, should 




ROAST PIG. 



644 



CARVING 




BOILED BABBIT. 



never be jointed, as that ruins it. In carving, cut parallel with the 
spine, as exi^lained for a loin of mutton (which see). Slices of fat 
will be found lower down, and a little can be served each guest. 

BOILED RABBIT.— 

Draw the knife on each 
side of the back bone the 
whole length of the rab- 
bit, as shown by the line 
A to B, thus dividing it in- 
to 3 parts. Now divide 
the back into 2 i^arts, cut- 
ting in the direction of the 

line C to D. Then take ofP the leg by cutting along the line e to f; 
the joint will readily disclose itself. Cut the shoulder as shown at G 
to H. The tenderest part is on the loins. There are other plans of 
carving a rabbit, but we think this the best. With a very large rab- 
bit, slices may first be cut out of the back, parallel with the backbone; 
then take off the legs, and then divide the back as at C to d. 

ROAST RABBIT.— The trussing of a roast rabbit is rather differ- 
ent from one which is 
boiled, but the carving is 
quite similar. Cat as 
many slices of moderate 
thickness from A to B as 
it will give, and then dis- 
engage the legs and shoul- 
ders as with boiled rabbit. 
The loins are the tenderest part. 

ROAST TURKEY.— The chief effort should be to obtain as many 
slices as possible from 
the breast; it is re- 
markable how many 
more a good carver 
will obtain than a 
poor one. A skilful 
carver knows the lo- 
cation of the joints, 
and easily manages 
the dissection. Com- 
mence by carving sli- KOAbT tubkey. 
ces from both sides of 
the breast in the direction of the lines b to c, beginning close to the 




UUASl' KAIililT. 




CARVING 645 

wing and working upwards towards the ridge of the breastbone. 
Then separate the legs by passing the knife along a to h, and 
on turning the leg out a little with the fork the joint will dis- 
close itself; then divide the thigh from the drumstick. Sej^arate the 
pinion carefully and neatly from the body. The stuffing can l)e ob- 
tained by making an oixming at B. 

BOILED TURKEY.— This is trussed in a little different manner 
from a roast turkey, but it is carved in the same way 

ROAST FOWL. — Have the fowl lie upon its back, with the 
tail to the left. Insert the fork into the breast firmly, a little to the 
left of the center, with a prong on either side of the ridge of the 
breastbone. Insert the knife between the leg and the side and press 
back the leg with the blade of the knife; the thighbone will leave the 
socket, and only a little assistance of the 
knife is needed to free the leg. Remove ^^^.^ £^^^ 

the wing by cutting from B to D; press ^^jK^-C^-- ^\ 

out the knife and the joint will come apart; ^r^^^'^-""b"""'^gl 

then se^Darate it from the body. Remove ^ ^^ A ^ ;>'''° '^>^^fc_-J 
the merrythought and neck bones by in- '.^^^^^^^^^^^0^^ 
serting the knife and forcing it under the eoast fowl. 

bones as at c to D; raise it and it will 

readily separate from the breast. Divide the breast from the body 
by cutting through the small ribs down to the vent, turn the back 
ujapermost, put the knife into about the center between the neck and 
rump, raise the lower part firmly yet gently, and it will easily sep- 
arate; then turn the neck or rump from you and take off the side 
bones. 

In separating the thigh from the drumstick the knife must be 
inserted exactly at the joint or much difficulty will be experienced. 
In very young fowls the breast is served whole; the wings and breast 
are preferred. A very large fowl is often carved like a turkey, which 
see. 

BOILED FOWL.— This is carved the same as roast fowl. The 
knife should be very sharp, and it should be carved with a sort of 
drawing cut, instead of using much downward pressure, as the 
boiled white flesh is apt to crumble. 

CAPONS. — These when very fine and roasted, should have sli- 
ces carved from the breast, like a turkey. See our di^-ections for carv- 
ing a turkey. 

ROAST GOOSE — In carving a goose the first effort should be to 



646 



CARVING 




EOAST GOOSE. 



cut as many slices as possible from the breast, and to do this the 
meat attached to the wings 
must be sacrificed. Turn 
the neck end of the goose 
towards you, and cut the 
whole breast in long slices 
from one wing to the oth- 
er; see the dotted lines B to 
c. To separate the legs, 
turn the goose on its side, 
and cut with the knife as near to the carcass as possible until stopped 
by the bone; then raise the leg with the fork and it can be easily 
separated from the body. To take off the wing, insert the fork in the 
small end of the pinion and press it close to the body, then put the 
knife in above and divide the joint. Make an incision at A, A, A, and 
offer a little of the stuffing to each one. 

ROAST DUCK. — In carving a duck a good deal depends on its 
size and fatness. A large duck with plenty of fat on the breast is 
carved like a goose (which see), first cutting slices off the breast, and 
then removing the legs and wings. Then remove the neckbone, or 
merrythought, as it is sometimes called, and then the whole breast- 
bone is sei)arated from the rest by cutting through the sides. The 
backbone easily divides in two by being pressed downwards. A lit- 
tle stuffing is served with each portion. A small or young duck is 
carved the same as directed for a fowl. 

PARTRIDGE. — The usual way is to place the bird on its back 
and carry the knife sharply along the breastbone and cut clear 
through, thus dividing the bird into 2 equal portions. Another way 
is to cut it into 3 pieces by severing a 
small wing and leg from the body by 
following the line A to B, thus mak- 
ing 2 helpings, when the breast will 
remain for a third. 




TAKTRIDGE. 



PIGEONS.— These are usually " 
cut in half, like the partridge, by cut- 
ting through the breast and back, and a half is sent to each person. 

SNIPE — One of these is usually sent whole to a gentleman, 
but for a lady it is generally divided in halves, as explained for a 
partridge. 

Woodcock, Quails, and other Small Birds, are served like snipe, or 
halved and served on toast. 



CARVING 647 

WILD DUCKS. — The breast of these is considered the choice 
portion, and is divided in slices. If necessary the leg and wing can 
be taken off as described for roast fowl. 

SWEETBREADS, CHOPS, AND CUTLETS — Serve 1 to each 
person without dividing it. 

POACHED EGGS, QUAILS, AND OTHER MEATS ON TOAST. 

— Use a broad knife, lift the toast carefully, and without displacing 
the egg or bird transfer it to the guest's plate 

FISH. — More care than knowledge is required in carving fish, 
as the principal thing is to avoid breaking the flakes. Still the car- 
ver should be acquainted with the choicest parts and should aim to 
give each guest an equal share of the titbits. Steel knives 
and forks should not be used in helping fish as they are liable to 
impart a very disagreeable flavor to it. Silver plated ones can easily 
be obtained when the solid silver is considered too expensive, and 
should be used. 

COD. — Whether a codfish is sent to the table whole, or only a 
part is served, like the head and shoulders, it is best to make 1 cut 
from the head towards the tail (or vice versa) down to the bone, 
A, B, and then cut slices 
across from this line to 
the side o c, d d. When 
codfish breaks into flakes, 
which it is very apt to do, 
they should be lifted with 
the fish knife, and one or 
more, according to their 

size, served to each person. Also serve a piece of the sound, (which 
is found lining the back, and may be obtained by passing the knife 
under the backbone) with each help. Give also a piece of the liver, 
which should be divided into pieces enough to go around. The 
gelatinous parts about the head and neck are considered a delicacy. 

HADDOCK, BASS, BLUEFISH, SMALL SALMON, ETC.— 

These are carved much the same as cod. 

THE TURBOT. — This is carved much like cod, first running the 
knife lengthwise of the fish, quite to the bone, and then cutting 
slices to the sides as directed above for cod. 

WHITEFISH, MACKEREL, ETC.— Divide the meat from the 
bones by cutting down the back lengthwise. Remove the head. 



b£.^ 




648 CAEVING 

tail and backbone, and divide the fish into suitable portions for the 
guests. The upper part is the best. 

Brook Trout and All Small Fish are served whole. 

TURBANS AND FILLETS OF FISH.— These, and all small slices 
of fish, are served without being divided. 

MEAT PIES. — In carving and serving meat pies begin by cut- 
ting the cover of paste in triangular pieces from the center to the 
sides. Cut only 2 pieces before taking out and serving the meat. 
Serve a piece of the crust, and also a little gravy, with each piece of 
meat. 

PLUM PUDDING This should be cut in slices from top to bot- 
tom, cutting always from the center. 

CHEESE — This should be cut and served in small thick pieces. 



THE TABLE AND ITS APPOINT= 

MENTS. 

X I / HE rule in serving meals should be to make them as attract- 
) I / ive as possible, and this is equally true whether one lives 
^ J,^ plainly or enjoys every luxury that can be obtained. The 
two principal methods of serving meals are known as the 
French and Russian (or a hi Russe) methods, the latter being the 
most common method for formal dinners. 

DINNER. 

This is the most substantial meal of the day, and should be 
served in a manner as elegant as the resources of the household will 
permit. When there are invited guests the number should not 
exceed twelve people, so that the conversation may be general. For 
this number the table should be a long one (the extension table com- 
monly used) and drawn out to its greatest length; there should be 
ample room allowed for each "cover" or place for a guest. The host 
may sit at one end of the tal)le and the hostess at the other, or if 
more convenient they can sit o^aposite each other at the centre of the 
table. The round table, about five feet in diameter, is suited to a 
square dining room, and for small parties, as it gives comfortable 
room for only (i or 8 people. Great care should be taken that the 
covers are not crowded. The round table is better adapted to serv- 
ing dinner a la Hussc where all the carving is done at a side table. 
The object of a dinner party or high tea. is not t > make a display of 
fine table furniture, or too elaborate cookery, but to promote agree- 
able social intercourse and conversation among friends. In England 
the dinner hour is usually at eight o'clock. l)ut in this country seven 
o'clock is more commoidy set for a ceremonious supper or dinner; 
this gives ample time at the table and afterwards for a social evening 
with conversation, amu.sements. and music. 

SETTING THE DINNER TABLE. Thero i.s more art than 
many people imagine in setting a table properly. The table cloth 
should be laid evenly, with an equal anunint falling over at the two 
ends and sides. A thick baize or canton flannel should be put under 
the table cloth, because if laid on a l)are table, the best table linen 




650 



THE TABLE 651 

will look thin and slazy. Nothing but the best white table cloths or 
napkins should be used for a dinner table. 

In Fig. 1 we give an illustration showing how to set a table for a 
company of 6 where the carving is done by the host, which is the 
most common American plan. The plates are distributed at each 
place when it is desired to carve at the sideboard, but otherwise the 
same general arrangement prevails. We show 2 knives and forks at 
each plate in this illustration. 

The edges of the knives should always be turned towards the 
plates. Sometimes 3 or more are placed in this way, but 2 is a good 
rule, and if more are needed they can be brought in as required. 

The napkin, folded square, with a piece of bread an inch thick 
and 3 inches long can be placed on each plate or put on instead of 
the plate as shown in this illustration. Instead of the individual salt 
cellars formerly used, salt stands ai'e now placed at each end of the 
table, together with the j)epper stands. 

At the right of each plate is arranged a goblet of water, and as 
many wine glasses as are needed. This illustration shows 2, but 
more are often used. Total abstinence families of course do not use 
any. The water goblet is filled just before dinner is announced. 

Neither glasses of any kind nor plates should ever be placed 
upside down. 

In some families water is served from the sideboard, and in 
others a water carafe for every 2 or 3 persons is placed on the table. 
At a party a small boquet would be at the place of each lady, and a 
button hole boquet (called a hontonniere) at that of each gentleman. 

The graj)es, fruit, nuts, raisins, candies, bon bons, fancy cakes, 
etc., (whatever is intended for dessert) are placed in 2 or 4 fancy 
dishes around the centerpiece — this illustration shows 4. 

The butter may be made uj) in neat balls and placed, with suffi- 
cient individual butter plates to supi^ly the company, near the 
hostess, who will serve it. It is not passed until after the soup 
dishes are removed. Some families place the butter on the sideboard, 
and have it served by the servant. We have omitted it from the 
table in this illustration. 

Of course more or less latitude for individual preference is al- 
lowed in these matters. In Fig. 2 we show another plan of setting a 
table as arranged by the well known firm of Marshall Field & Co., 
of Chicago. In this illustration it will be noticed that there is a 
tumbler and 5 wine glasses, and their appropriate arrangement is 
given. Here the dinner plates are on the table, and the knives, 
forks and spoons are all on the right hand side of the plate, while 




652 



THE TABLE 



653 




Fig. 3. 



the napkin is placed on the left hand side, instead of on the plate. 
This is a very appropriate and tasteful arrangement, and by looking 
at the two illustrations our readers can see two approved methods of 
setting the table at the jiresent day. 

SERVING THE DINNER.— The first course will be oysters 
(when they are served) with which comes lemon 
or vinegar; 5 oysters for each jplate are enough. 
If they are not served, the oyster fork shown in 
our ilkistration will of course be omitted in set- 
ting the tabl.e. When the oysters are eaten the 
13lates are removed, and sou^d is brought on by 
the servant who places it, together with the soup 
plates, before the hostess in the manner shown 
in the accompanying illustration, Fig. 3. The 
hostess then ladles out the soup, half a ladleful being enough for 
each person, and the servant i3laces it before the guest. The ladies 
are served first by some hostesses, and others serve the guests in 
rotation. 

After the soup comes fish, which is carved by the host. The 
accompanying illustration. Fig. 4, shows the 
way in which the servant would place the fish 
j)latter, plates, etc., before the host ready to be 
carved. The servant j)asses each plate as the 
host hands it to her, and the servant should 
always j)ass the plates in at the left hand side 
of the guest. 

After the fish comes the meat or game 
which is carved by the host, and passed by the 
servant in the same way. The vegetables go 
with the meat, although at very formal dinners 
they are often made courses by themselves. 

The hostess serves the salad. Then the 
table is brushed and the dessert brought in and placed before the 
hostess who serves the x^astry or pudding. The usual order for des- 
sert is pastry or pudding, ices, fruit, nuts and raisins, and bon-bons"! 
Coffee follows the fruit. 

The finger bowls come before the fruit, and should be about ^ 
full of water slightly warmed and perfumed, and a doily is laid 
between the bowl and plate. The bowl and doily is lifted from the 
plate by the guest and placed at his left. The fingers should never 
be wiped on the doily, the napkin being used instead. 




Fig. 4. 



THE TABLE 655 

At the close of the meal, when the hostess sees that all have fin- 
ished, she looks at the lady seated at the right of the host, and the 
guests rise, and they retire to the drawing room in the order in 
which they are seated. 

The above described method of serving dinner is apjjropriate 
for a family of moderate means with one or two servants. In cases 
where more expensive establishments are maintained, with many 
servants, the fish and meat would be carved by the butler, and the 
different courses would all be served from the sideboard by the serv- 
ants, instead of being placed on the table as described above and 
served by the host and hostess. 

The ordinary family dinner usually spread by a majority of the 
people in this country consists of three courses, — viz. soup, meats 
and vegetables, and a dessert of puddings or pies, — more commonly 
of only 2 courses, the soui? being omitted. When the table is sup- 
plied in this way, the meat or meats, with 2 or more vegetables, are 
placed before the oue who serves it and the dessert near some mem- 
ber of the family who serves that. If there is a maid she removes 
the first set of j^lates, knives, and forks, with the remainder of the 
meat and vegetables, takes off the crumbs with a crumb=knife and 
pan, then places smaller plates with the dessert before the one who 
serves it, replenishes water glasses, brings tea or coffee if desired, 
and leaves the room. 

THE BREAKFAST TABLE. 

At the dinner table a white table=cloth and napkins should 
always be used, but at breakfast tinted napery is allowable. A 
plate, knife, fork, sjjoon, goblet, egg=cup and neatly folded napkin 
are set at each i^lace at the table. Our illustration, Fig. 5, shows the 
manner of arranging them. 

The edge of the knife should always be turned towards the plate, 
and the goblet or egg=cuj) should never be upside down. 

The old individual salt cellars are no longer used, but salt stands 
are placed by the'side of the pepper stands at the ends of the table. 
The individual butter plates will be placed beside the butter dish and 
the butter will be served by the hostess or some other member of the 
family. In many homes at present the butter is kept on the side- 
board and served by the servant, but on these points each family 
must follow its own preference. 

Casters are no longer used, being out of date. The pepper 
stands and vinegar=jug are shown in our cut. The water carafes, 
shown in this illustration, should be filled with fresh, cold water, just 




656 



THE TABLE 657 

before breakfast is announced. In some families tli'e water is placed 
on the sideboard. 

Our other illustration, Fig. 6, shows a simple and tasteful plan 
of arrangement as prepared for us by Marshall Field & Co., of 
Chicago. 

SERVING BREAKFAST.— For breakfast 3 courses are enough at 
any time. The first course will consist of oatmeal, cracked^ wheat or 
fruit The second will consist of the substantials — meat, jjotatoes, 
etc For convenience, in Fig. 5 we show the arrangement of the 
dishes for the second course, wnth the meat placed before the host at 
one end of the table, and the coffee service before the hostess at the 
other end. The third and last course will be the cakes or waffles. 

THE LUNCH OR TEA TABLE. 

The arrangement of the table for a lunch or supper would be 
very similar to that for breakfast. The illustrations and directions 
already given will be a sufficient guide for our readers in arranging 
almost any ordinary table. For a dinner table nothing but white 
napery is suitable, but at a luncheon tinted napery may be used if 
desired, although nothing is more suitable than white. At luncheon 
the food may all be i^laced on the table at the beginning, if desired, 
and those present may help each other. 

A FEW HINTS. 

In pretentious establishments it is not considered the prop)er 
thing to keep the table set all the time, but in modest houses, where 
the dining room is not used for other purposes, it is a saving of 
labor to keep the table continually set. After one meal is over, the 
dishes washed, the table cleared of crumbs and the najjery changed 
if necessary, put everything in place except the food, and cover all 
with calico or mosquito netting until the next meal is served. This 
prevents confusion and hurry in placing meals on the table just 
before tiiiie for eating. Calico makes the best covering, as it protects 
from dust as well as flies. 

Where children wait on the table, or servants at a prolonged 
meal, they should have their dinner before their duties begin; it is 
cruel to make children, who need their food promptly, wait for it 
until after a long dinner is served to their elders. 

The custom of putting toothpicks on the table is very vulgar, 
and families of refinement do not allow it. 

42 



THE TABLE 659 

TABLE DECORATIONS. 

The tasteful decoration of the table is no small item, and fortu- 
nately the tendency is now to decorate the tables more than former- 
ly. In some circles the hostesses vie with each other as to whose 
table shall be the most ele<^ant, and in some cases as much is spent 
on the flowers as on the dinner itself, employing for this purpose 
professional decorators. And yet a very large class of peojple do not 
sufficiently understand the importance of appearances. 

It is a mistake to think that it is necessary to go to large 
expense in order to decorate a table prettily. Many flowers which 
are jDerfectly adapted for table decoration can be bought for a mere 
trifle, or grown at home, while wild flowers have been found so 
pretty for this purpose that they have been used by jorofessional 
decorators at many grand dinners. Ladies with taste will find this 
a very pleasant task, while young people should be allowed to assist 
in decorating the table, and have their taste for arranging flowers 
encouraged. 

The great thing is to make the table pretty and attractive, and at 
the same time not like every one's else, and this can be very easily 
managed, and with very little expense, by using a little taste, fore- 
thought and time. 

Fashions change so often that it is impossible to give anything 
but hints for table decoration. One good rule is that the decorations 
should not imxjede the view across the table. Another is that they 
should all be of one color, or of two colors which harmonise well. 

It will be found easier to produce a good efPect with one color in 
the flowers used, and variety in the foliage, than to blend a miscel- 
laneous collection of blossoms. A good decorator will aim to place 
the flowers so that they will look natural, and as if growing. It 
detracts from their beauty to crowd them together. Let them stand 
clearly apart, their stems showing, with the grasses or ferns with 
which they are intermingled veiling, but not hiding them, nor rest- 
ing on the blossoms. 

If economy is an object, flowers can easily be had for nothing in 
the country, and each season of the year brings some flowers or 
foliage with which very pretty ornaments can be arranged. In the 
spring there are the primroses, cowslips and other flowers of that 
season; in the summer, waterdillies, grasses, etc.; in the fall the rich 
tinted foliage and berries, and in the winter the fresh, dark evergreen 
leaves. Those with taste and skill can arrange a lovely table with 
foliage alone, quite as pretty as a floral one. Field flowers mingled 
with grasses form a charming decoration, and so do buttercups if 



660 



TABLE DECORATIONS 




BOSE IN VASE. 



properly arranged to stand np well without any crowding, with 
plenty of feathery foliage. One great charm about wild flowers is 
that they possess so little scent. 

Strongly scented flowers are not advisable for table decoration 
as many people cannot endure the odor. The only perfumed flower 
that seems to find general favor is the rose, 
which is lovely for table decoration, and may 
be put into low bowls or baskets, or in single 
blooms in small glasses with only their own 
foliage. Yellows are a great favorite for dinner 
tables, and small dwarf sunflowers, alpine pop- 
l)ies, iris and marguerites are all favorites. 

Dried seaweed is a novel decoration and 
one that may be made quite ornamental. Some 
of the finer, more delicate seaweeds, if carefully 
dried, keep their colors wonderfully. Palms 
can be used and made to form very, pretty cen- 
tres on dinner tables if the pot is hidden by moss and covered with 
flowers and foliage. Trails of colored ivy also look extremely pretty 
on a table cloth; they may be used as an edge to the colored strip, oi 
as a border where there are small vases or a basket of flowers on the 
table. 

Where time cannot be spared for much decoration, plants may 
be used, and ferns especially look well. A dining room can be trans- 
formed into a veritable spring garden with great branches of apple, 
cherry or peach blossoms; the deep, pink blossons of the flowering 
peach making a most effective decoration. The smaller sprigs can be 
put in rose bowls and placed on the table and sideboard, the most 
sim[)le arrangement being the most pleasing. 

For a long table 2 or 3 vases of flowers and dessert dishes of 
fruit can be placed along the center of the table, alternating with 
lamps or candelabra in the evening, but the decorations should not be 
so high as to obstruct the view 
of people across the table. The 
low globular vases of various 
sizes, called rose=bowls, are the 
best for this purpose. Flowers 
can be easily arranged in them 
and they are not too high. The 
maidenhair fern is well suited 
for a foundation of green; 2 or 3 
fronds with short stems can be 
first j)laced in the vase, hang- 
ing gracefully over the sides 




BOWL OF BOSES. 



TABLE DECORATIONS 



661 



of the glasses; then only a few flowers are needed to finish them. 
Roses, carnations, pansies, bright berries of the mountain ash, bush 
cranberry, small branches of red cranberries, and holly berries are 
all desirable for decorative purposes. Goldenrod and other pungent 
flowers are best left ofp the table, but all delicate wild flowers and 
ferns are pretty. They should be carefully shaken and examined 
for insects before they are jjlaced in the glasses. 

The bocprets which we sometimes encounter at hotel tables and 
elsewhere, crowded with flower stems and leaves decaying in water 
unchanged for days are reiiellant. The flower stems should be strip- 
ped of all leaves in order that the water in the vases may not be dis- 
colored, and the water should be changed before each meal and all 
faded flowers discarded. 

An inexpensive and effective way to decorate a table is to 
make an imitation lake, although it is rather troublesome. For this 
a piece of looking glass is needed, long and narrow if possible, or 
take the glass from an old looking glass. The glass must be placed 
exactly in the center of the table on a thick piece of brown paper, or 
double thickness of newspajoer, with the edge projecting an inch or 
so beyond the glass. The edge of the glass and the paper must be 
well covered with moss, and sprays of fern, j)retty leaves and a few 
flowers are placed in the moss to hang partly over the glass. The 
effect is enhanced by placing four " fairy " lamps at the corners of 
the imaginary lake with pieces of fern arranged to bend around the 
light. The accompanying illustration shows such an artificial lake. 




AETIFICIAL LAKE FOR A DINNER TABLE. 



A great variety of figures may be arranged around a mirror and 
endless effects i)roduced. For example white wool torn into large 
soft flakes can be arranged around the edge of the glass, and raised in 



G62 



TABLE DECORATIONS 



unequal heights to give the impression of a snowdrift, and the mir- 
ror powdered to rej)resent ice. Sprays of ivy, grasses and colored 
leaves can be scattered around the drifts. 

Another pretty decoration is to have down the centre of the 
table a narrow bank of ferns, in which pink tulips are arranged as if 
growing. With a little taste and skill a bed of flowers may be ar- 
ranged in the centre of the table by laying damp ferns and moss, not 
on the cloth but on a piece of oiled silk. 

For a small dinner where the tal)le is oval the centre looks well 
completely hidden with folds of Chartreuse yellow silk. Stand in 
the centre a large silver bowl, and at each corner place smaller bowls 
or cups. These would look charming filled with yellow marguerites, 
maidenhair fern and asparagus grass. The bowls should be filled 
with sand, and the flowers arranged to look as if growing. 

Buttercups, daisies, poppies, grasses and wild clematis are very 
pretty arranged in saucers of wet moss so that none of the saucer can 
be seen. A pretty way to 
arrange flowers which are 
not put in water is to tie a 
few flowers and many 
grasses together like 
sheaves of wheat, using 
ribbons which correspond 
in color with the flowers, 
and the sheaves may then 
be stood upright; but flow- 
ers should be selected 
which will stand heat and 
being out of water without 
wilting. Wreaths may al- 
so be made of suitable 
flowers, tied with ribbons 
and strewn about. 

Again 2 horse^shoes can be placed at each end of the table, and 
down the sides place alternately smaller ones, made of primroses and 
violets, in which the menus are placed. DafPodils always look pretty, 
and so do wild roses. Mountain ash berries, when ripe, set in richly 
tinted autumn foliage, make a lovely decoration. Upon very large 
tables tall vases and high decorations are best. 

Choose flowers according to the season, and the centre piece, if 
there is one. In summer a cool effect is needed and plenty of white 
and green should be found upon the table, while in winter it is pleas- 




EARS OF WHEAT. 




FOLDING NAPKINS 663 

ant to see brilliantly colored flowers that seem to give warmth as well 
as brightness. Glasses through which the stems of the flowers can be 
seen should be filled with water, but bowls or opaque stands can be 
filled with moss or sand, in which it is far easier to arrange flowers 
than in water. 

This is not the age of heavy dinners nor heavy decorations. 
The dinner tables of fashionable people are things of lightness and 
delicacy, and the menus to corresjpond. The best rules in floral dec- 
oration are to keep to 1 or 2 kinds of flowers, 
using their own foliage as much as x^ossible; to 
consider color and shade, and aim to produce light 
and airy efPects. Never put flowers in a vase with- 
out adding green of some kind, like leaves or 
ferns, and never put too many flowers into the 
same vase, as they never look pretty when crowd- 
ed together. 

In picking flowers and foliage get the stems 
as long as possible as they can then be more easi- 

, 1 T>. ,11 1 1 1 • DECORATIVE FLOWER 

ly arranged. Do not allow any leaves to be m pot. 

the water; when they grow down to the bottom of 
the leafstalk Strip away all the lower ones so that nothing but the 
stalk will enter the water. Put flowers as much as iDossible into 
vases so shaped as not to upset easily and which will at the same 
time make them look natural. ,For table decoration avoid flowers 
that have a peculiar or strong scent. Finally, remember that prac- 
tice alone makes perfect in this as in other things. 

If the tables are lighted by lamps they should be well shaded. 
It is most distressing, besides being injurious to the eyes, to have 
the unshaded glare of a kerosene lamp shining into the eyes while at 
the table. 



FOLDING NAPKINS. 

Napkins, or as the French call them serviettes, without being as. 
obtrusive as they are at hotels or large public entertainments should 
still be i^art of the ornaments of the table. On festi^^e or ceremonial 
occasions the appearance of a dinner table is greatly improved by 
folding the table napkins into attractive shapes. In ordinary fam- 
ily use they may be neatly and tastefully folded when first put on 
the table, although afterwards they are generally put in napkin- 
rings. 



CM 



FOLDING NAPKINS 



Although in America the ciistoni of folding napkins into taste- 
ful designs is not so prevalent as it is in Europe, (where on the 
most elegant tables it is universal) it is still advisable to know how- 
to fold some of the more ajjpropriate j)atterns. Some of the shapes 
in use require folding of a rather elaborate and difficult kind, but 
many patterns are simple and easily learned. We give illustrations 
and directions for folding some of the most desirable forms. 

To succeed in folding a napkin it is necessary that its hould be 
fresh and clean, and sufficiently starched to be somewhat stiff. In 
every case the folding must be exact, or the result will be slovenly 
and unsightly. After folding the napkins, a small dinner roll, or 
piece of bread cut thick, about 3 inches square, can be placed in each 
one, and, wdien convenient to do so, the appearance of the dinner 
table will be greatly improved by also putting a flower or small 
boquet in each napkin. 

Plain white napkins are the best to use unless one can have 
several sets with different colored ornamentation, in which case the 
color used should be the one predominant in the ornamentation of 
the table. A perfectly square napkin will admit of more elaborate 
folding than one which is rather longer than broad, and is, therefore, 
the best to use. The best size is about 28 to 30 inches square. It 
may be well to try to make the figures with paper at first, until the 
fads are learned. 





GKEEK OKOS8. FiG. 1. 



Fig. 2. 



Fig. 3. 



THE GREEK 

CROSS. — Take a 

perfectly square nap 

kin and fold the 4 

corners into the 

centre as shown in 

Fig. 1; again fold 

the corners into the 

centre, and press 

flrmly dowm. Turn 

the napkin and for the third time fold the corners to the centre; 





Fig. 4. 



Fig. 5. 



FOLDING NAPKINS 



66^ 




vicTOKiA BOW. Fig. 1. 



turn again, and fold corners to the centre again, making 4 times. 
Turn the napkin and it should resemble Fig. 2. Pull up each cor- 
ner, opening it as you do so, as shown in Fig. 3; when all 4 corners 
are opened turn the napkin and the cross should be formed, Fig. 4^ 
ready to receive the bread roll in the centre. Tarts may be placed 
in the ends and on top, if desired, as shown in Fig. 5. 

THE VICTORIA BOW.— This is 

a neat, flatdying bow, suitable for 
breakfast or luncheon. Fold the nap- 
kin in three, lengthways, as for the 
collegian; then turn over the top 
thickness about an inch wide, and 
continue to fold this over and over 
until a band is formed in the centre of 
the napkin, as in Fig. 
1. Turn the napkin 
and fold one end over 
about 4 or 5 inches, 
and then fold it over 
again; then fold it 
neatly backwards and 
forwards underneath, 

when it should ho as in Fig. 2. Press all firmly together, and then 
bring down the centre of the upper fold, and tuck it under the band 
in the middle; repeat this at the other end, an 1 the bow is formed as 
in Fig. 8. 

THE PALM LEAF.- -Take a square napkin and fold the diago- 
nal corners together forming a triangle, and if very large repeat the 




VICTOKIA BOW. Fig. 2. 



VICTORIA BOW. Fig. 3. 






THE PALM LEAF. FiG. 1. 



THE PALM LEAF. FlG. 2. 



THE PALM LEAF. FiG. 3' 



process. Next turn up the 2 ends so as to form 8 points, as shown in 
Fig. 1; then fold up the lower edge as in Fig. 2; then pleat it in regu- 
lar folds, about an inch deep, backwards and forwards like a fan, and 



666 



FOLDING NAPKINS 




THE LILY. Fig. 1. 



place it in a ring to make it stand up, as in Fig. 3, and it is complete. 

THE LILY — Take a square nap- 
kin and fold the two diagonal cor- 
ners together forming a triangle; 
then take the two opposite corners 
and make them meet on the centre 
one, which forms a square. Take 
the bottom corner, the one opposite 
the points, and roll it up as in Fig. 
1. Turn the napkin over and roll 
point a to about the centre; then 
take point h and tuck it in the 
groove; raise it and you have Fig. 
2; turn the top corners down and 
tuck them in at c, d, and turn back 
the second fold at the top, forming 
Fig. 3— the lily. 

THE COLLEGIAN.— Make 2 

folds lengthwise in the napkin 
thus folding it into 3 thicknesses 
something like the letter Z. Then 
turn over each side at the centre, 
as shown in Fig. 1. Now turn the 
napkin over and roll up first one end, as in Fig. 2, and then the other. 




THE LILY. Fig. 2. THE LILY. FiG. 3. 




THE COLLEGIAN. FiG. 1. THE COLLEGIAN. FiG. 2. 



the collegian. 
Fig. 3. 



the collegian. 
Fig. 4. 



Then fold them under, along the dotted line, making Fig. 3 and 
when completed and turned over we have the result, as shown in 
Fig. 4. In this and the next pattern it may sometimes be conven- 
ient to fold the napkin into four instead of three thicknesses. 
Again, the square on top can be raised nearly upright, and the roll 
of bread tucked under, when it forms the fold known as the shield. 



FOLDING NAPKINS 



667 



THE NEAPOLITAN.— Fold the napkin into three, as first 
directed for the collegian. Then lay it on the table 
and fold the vjrper thickness back on itself. Then 
turn the napkin over and proceed as with the colle- 
gian. When done it forms the neapolitan, and the 
bread roll can be tucked under the fold as seen in 
our illustration. 

THE MITRE.— This is a well known device 
which always looks effective. Fold the napkin into 
three thicknesses, the same as for the collegian. Then fold the two 






THE MITKE. FiG. 1. 



THE MITEE. FiG. 2. 





THE MITEE. FlG. 4. 



THE MITEE. FiG. 3. 

ends over to meet in the middle, as 
in Fig. 1; then fold down the two 
diagonal corners, forming Fig. 2; 
then double the folded napkin un- 
der, lengthwise, and turn up the 
poinfs, and it will form Fig. 3. 

Next bend the left hand bottom corner to the right around the fin- 
gers, forming a circle, and tuck the corner into the inner fold; turn 
over the right hand corner and tuck it into a similar fold, and the 
result is the mitre. Fig. 4. 

THE ESCUTCHEON.— This is folded like the collegian as far 
as there shown in Fig. 2. Then the ends are rolled 
up without turning over the napkin. The two rolls 
are then turned under, as in the collegian, and on 
raising the square on top, the escutcheon is formed 
as shown in our illustration of the Escutcheon, and 
the bread roll can be tucked in the opening in front, 
if desired. 




THE ESCUTCHEON, 



668 



FOLDING NAPKINS 



THE ARUM.— This can be folded with a napkin of any shape. 
Fold the napkin once lengthwise down the center; then bring the 2 
opposite corners together to meet 
on the opposite side, and if the 
napkin is not square it will belike 
Fig. 1 ; then roll up the base of the 
triangle about | of the way, press- 
ing each roll to keep it in shape. 
Then form the napkin into a cir- 
cle, and tuck one end of the rolled part inside the folds opi^osite, 
forming Fig. 2. Stand on end and put the bread roll in the centre. 

THE DOUBLE HORN OF PLENTY.-This requires a stiff nap- 
kin, damp and freshly ironed, or after the last fold a pin may be 
inserted at each side. Lay the napkin on the table and fold in four 





THE AKUM. Fig. 1. 



Fig. 2. 





HORN OF PLENTY. FiG. 1. 



HORN OF PLENTY. FlG. 2. 




HOKN OF PLENTY. FiG. 



lengthways, keeping the selvage 
edges all one way. Turn the two 
ends to meet in the centre as 
shown in Fig. 1 in the Mitre; then 
turn over, and turn down two cor- 
ners, not on the selvage edge, as 
d to e, and h to/; turn the napkin 
over and it will resemble Fig. 
1. Take the end a and roll it 
over to 6, as in Fig. 2, and then 

roll c to (I and complete the design as shown in Fig. 8. Pinch the 
horns down and hold them a minute to make them retain their shape, 
or pin them. This is suitable for a Thanksgiving or Christmas din- 
ner when the horns may be filled with flowers and tied with ribbons, 
or other devices used emblematic of plenty, as showm in Fig. 3. 

THE CORNUCOPIA.— Fold the napkin lengthways down the 
middle. Then turn down the corners at the two ends to meet in the 
middle on the opposite side and form a triangle as in Fig. 1; take the 
corners at the base and make them meet at the apex, thus forming a 



FOLDING NAPKINS 



669 



square. Fig. 2; then double it together, b to a, and it will form Fig. 




THE CORNUCOPIA. FiG. 1. 



Fig. 2. 



Fig. 



Fig. 4. 



3. At one side there will be three folds; set the napkin upright over 
the bread roll, with 2 of these folds on one side of the roll, and 1 on 
the other; shape it nicely, keeping the fold at the back upright edge 
closed. A flower at the apex has a pretty effect, and a few flowers or 
leaves at the base as shown in our illustration, Fig. 4. These are 
very effective on a long dinner table. 



HOUSEHOLD TOPICS. 

fT is a remark often repeated, but always true, that woman makes 
the home. The importance of the home and home life 
to the well being of society is so well known, and so often 
dwelt upon, as to need no repetition here. The butterflies of 
fashion may be indifferent to the value of a thorough knowl- 
edge of housekeeping, but sensible women know that all other 
accomplishments sink into comparative unimportance beside it, 
because it more deeply affects woman's real life and her relations to 
the family than any other. Like all other accomplishments it may 
be acquired by study and practice, but it can be acquired in no other 
way. Children should receive early instruction in domestic econ- 
omy, and the lessons should be made as pleasant, and the subject as 
attractive as possible. It may save them from much tribulation and 
suffering later in life. Above all they should be taught to take a 
pride in their work, and a delight in doing it well. 

All work well done ennobles the doer, and any work slighted is a 
disgrace. To thoroughly understand all the details of housekeeping 
is to understand that which lies at the foundation of all the peace, 
comfort and well being of the family. It is knoMdedge and skill, not 
luck, which brings success. The admiration and esteem of husband 
and children will be more surely won, and much more surely retain- 
ed, by the ability to manage the domestic affairs skillfully and eco- 
nomically, than by any of the lighter and more showy accomplish- 
ments. 

Even when a woman expects that she will be able to employ 
servants to do most of the hard work, she will know^ that if slie would 
superintend their labors successfully she must understand the details 
of their work. Servants are quick to detect ignorance and incomi^e- 
tence in their mistress and to tak'e advantage of it also, while super- 
ior intelligence speedily commands their respect, and checks their 
disx3osition to shirk. 

In housekeeping, as in everything else, system is of the utmost 
importance. And yet there are large numbers of housewives who do 
not appreciate its value. Not only should there be a j)lace for every- 
thing, and everything put in its place, the inqwrtance of which is 
often insisted on, though none too often, but there should also be a 
time for everything. Have certain days of the week for doing 
certain things, and also arrange the work of the day, as far as possi- 
ble, allotting a time for every duty. 

It is astonishing how much more can be accomplished by regu- 
lar, systematic, well planned efforts, than by irregular and spasmodic 
work. Use your head in your work, and keep cool and self-pos- 
sessed. The following rules are offered as being suggestive mainly: 
(1) Plan your work carefully, and work systematically. (2) Never 

670 



THE KITCHEN, PANTRY AND STOREROOM 671 

rely on servants, but oversee everything. (3) Avoid both extrava- 
gance and waste. (4) Keep an accurate account of both receipts 
and expenditures. (5) Pay cash, and avoid debts as you would a 
pestilence. (6) When in doubt consult the index of this book. 

It may safely be said that the housewife is called upon to dis- 
play an amount and variety of knowledge and skill such as is 
required of few men. Often, without any siDecial education or pre- 
paration, she is called upon to deal with the most diverse subjects; 
she must mend and care for the family clothing, and often make a 
good deal of it; purchase and cook the food for the family; attend to 
the sinks, sewers and sanitary condition of the house; look after the 
health of the children and doctor their colds, accidents, and lighter 
complaints, and so on through a long list of subjects. 

The object of these pages is to make a book of reference, treating 
on the various deijartments of housekeeping, and, while avoiding 
technical and obscure terms, to place the teachings of modern science 
as far as i^ossible within the reach of its readers, on those household 
subjects in which science plays a part. The subjects treated 
cover a wide range, but we have classified and arranged our infor- 
mation as well as possible. Modern homes are supplied with so great 
a variety of articles of use and ornament that their care is no small 
item, and we have endeavored to give the best information attainable 
on these matters. We often give several ways of doing the same 
thing. We have various reasons for this. One is the desire to 
inform our readers about the matter, and another is that it is at some 
times more convenient to use one method than another; also in 
special cases one plan will work where another does not. In any 
event there is little danger of having too much information on any 
subject Some of our readers may not be familiar with some of the 
materials whose use we refer to, but most of them can easily be 
obtained at any drug store. 



THE KITCHEN, PANTRY AND STOREROOM. 

THE KITCHEN. 

PON the kitchen and its management the comfort of the whole 
house largely depends. It ought to be large, and fitted up 
neatly and pleasantly, and it should have an abundance of 
light and a cheerful aspect. All its sanitary arrangements 
should be most carefully examined and attended to, since- 
negligence here will affect the whole household. See also that it is 
well ventilated. The essentials in the kitchen are to have an abun- 
dance of light, good ventilation, a cheerful aspect, and convenience 
of arrangement so as to save all the labor possible. 

The ivaUs should be either whitewashed or painted — never 
papered. Wliitewash is clean and sweet, and it can be renewed at 
any time. 




672 THE KITCHEN, PANTRY AND STOREROOM 



If whitewash is used, at least twice a year a fresh coat should 
be laid on. The whitewash can be tinted if desired. If the walls 
are painted, a light shade is to be preferred. A good way is to cover 
the walls with a size made of a solution of | lb. of glue to the gal- 
lon of water, and then apply a good oil paint. Painted walls should 
be washed at least twice a year. The best finish for the wood- 
work is to oil and varnish it, or simply oil it. It can then be easily 
and quickly wiped otf when soiled. If painted, it will require a good 
deal of washing with soajD to keep it in condition, and then the paint 
Mall wear off in spots. 

Tlw Floor. — Have the floor smoothly and evenly laid, and with 
hard wood, if possible. Carefully selected hard pine answers very 
well, but maple or birch are better, birch being best, as it does not 
stain so easily as maple; do not use s^jruce or any 
soft wood. Then if the floor is oiled 2 or 3 times a 
year with boiled linseed oil it will make the cleanest 
and least troublesome finish. If not oiled, apply a 
black walnut stain, or any other which you prefer. 
We explain how to stain floors elsewhere, and any 
woman can stain her own floor White floors are too 
suggestive of aching backs and tired arms. Carpets 
are not suitable for a kitchen. Oil cloth is better 
than carpet but it is too cold, and is not equal to 
the wood floor. Tiles, which are sometimes recom- 
mended, tire the feet. 

FiirnisJiing the Kiichen. — It is very desirable that a kitchen 
should be furnished with all the articles which will aid in perform- 
ing the necessary work, but many housekeepers do not possess the 
means to buy all they want. There is no disgrace in not being able 
to buy certain articles, but there is great disgrace in not keejiing 
those clean which are owned. The best way to do this is never to 
allow an article to be put away dirty. If this rule is followed uni- 
formly there will be little fear that any article will not be clean any 
time it is wanted. 

The furniture of the kitchen and pantry should include — 




HARD MAPLE. 



1 good cooking stove or range. 

1 wash boiler. 

1 washboard. 

3 flat irons. 

1 ijolishing iron. 

1 large iron dinner-pot. 

1 tall, narrow, iron soupkettle. 

2 smaller vegetable kettles. 

1 shallow iron doughnut kettle. 
1 double boiler. 
1 large tea=kettle. 

3 sizes of frying pans. 

1 dripping=pan for roasting meat. 
1 porcelain kettle for preserving 
and canning. 



1 cooking table. 
1 ironing table. 
1 low rocking chair. 
3 chairs. 

1 wash=bencli. 

3 sizes of composition wash-tubs. 

2 composition water=pails. 
1 coffeeinill. 

1 spice mill. 

1 mortar and pestle. 

1 pair scales. 

1 bread knife and board. 

1 meat knife and board. 

1 vegetable knife. 

^ dozen kitchen knives and forks. 



THE KITCHEN, PANTRY AND STOREROOM 678 

4 brick=shaped bread-pans. -^ doz tinned spoons (assorted 
1 round cake pan, with center sizes). 

stem. 1 chopping tray, for fruit. 

3 jelly-cake pans. 1 rolling pin and molding^board. 

1 gem pan. 1 bread box, of tin, 

2 long, square, baking tins. 1 cake box, of tin 

1 gridiron. 2 colanders, 1 coarse and 1 tine. 

1 wire bread toaster. 1 gravy=strainer. 

•4 small sauce pans of different 1 granite=ware coffee^j)ot. 

sizes. 1 earthen teajDot. 

1 can cutter. 1 tin chocolate^pot. 

1 chopping knife and tray (for 1 apple corer. 

meats). 2 large cooking bowls. 

1 chopping tray, for onions. 1 first class cook book. 

At the sink there should be — 
1 tin water dipper. 1 water=pail. 

1 washbasin. 1 large dish=pan. 

1 soapdish. ' 1 large draining-pan. 

1 soap shaker. 1 large rinsing=pan. 

Have roller towels and plenty of dish towels, and a slop-pail 
near at hand. 

For the china closet side-board there should be: A dinner set 
of crockery which includes the breakfast and tea-set, goblets, tum- 
blers, teaspoons, tablespoons, a butterknife, a carving knife and 
fork, soup ladle, pepper=boxes, salt=cellars or shakers, vinegar=bottle, 
mustard=i)ot, glass dishes for pickles and celer}^ table-cloths and 
napkins, crumb=brush and pan. 

A smoofh poi or kettle is excellent for all general purposes, as 
it wears indefinitely, and is better the longer it is used. If by acci- 
dent it boils dry, take it from the fire, and set it where it will cool 
gradually; if cold water is dashed in, it will cool suddenly, and crack. 
Care should also be taken that iron kettles and pots should not 
stand with liquids in them, in cold weather, where they will freeze 
solid, as that bursts them. 

Bfdss and cojyper vessels should never be used for cookery, as 
the danger of poison is too great, especially if used by inexperi- 
en<;ed or ignorant persons. The mild acids found in foods (like 
acetic, malic, etc.,) readily attack these metals and produce^ poison- 
ous comj)ounds. 

The e)Hi)ueled or povceJct'Di l^ettte is invaluable for canning and 
stewing fruit, and for making preserves, jellies and pickles, and one 
should always be kept for this purjDose alone, but if used as an 
every=day kettle for meats and vegetables the enamel very soon 
wears or scales off, and then it becomes a rough and easily rusted 
kettle, to which everything cooked therein is apt to stick and burn. 

A double boiler should, if possible, be owned by every family. 
It has many uses, and no kitchen is complete without one. 

Atuminum is undoubtedly the best metal with which to make 

43 



GT4 THE KITCHEN, PANTRY AND STOREROOM 

cooking utensils. It is light, durable, easily cleaned, does not rust 
or corrode, and is not affected by any of the mild acids found in 
foods. Although it conducts heat readily, food cooked in it does 
not burn, and the use of aluminum vessels largely does away with 
the need of double boilers and porcelain kettles. The cooking uten- 
sils of the future will be largely made of it we believe. 

The above list of cooking utensils and tableware might be 
lengthened indefinitely if we included all the modern implements 
for the kitchen and pantry which are seen in the variety stores, 
supplemented with the luxurious and expensive dining-room ware 
deemed necessary by people of wealth, but very fair cooking for a 
small family can be accomplished with the above utensils, and a nice 
looking table furnished with the articles on this list. Skilled me- 
chanics, however, know that to do good work they must have good 
tools and these must be kept in good condition; so, also, the woman 
who attempts to do her work well, should try and secure the best 
utensils and the most conveniences she can, and should aim to obtain 
improved and labor saving devices as they api^ear from time to 
time. A trifling outlay for a new article will often save a great 
deal of work, 

A Scdcmiander is a round iron plate with a long handle attached. 
The method of using it is to heat it red 
hot, and then to pass it over dishes, the 
surface of which it is desired to brown, 
but which cannot be placed in the oven; 
care is needed not to hold it too close, or salamander. 

the surface will be scorched. A common 
iron fire shovel makes a very good substitute for a salamander. 

Have a good dresser if j^ossihle in which to keep all pots, ket- 
tles, kitchen tableware, etc. The doors of the upj^er part of the 
dresser should slide one in front of the other, instead of being on 
hinges. Have wide closets below, containing shelves, and drawers 
above the closets. 

There should he 2 or 3 tables in the kitchen. It will be a con- 
venience to have 1 table set at the end of the sink, on which to pre- 
pare the poultry, vegetables, etc., and have it set close to the sink so 
that the water will not fall between the two. Have also a small 
table covered with zinc on which to rest the utensils when making 
waffles, omelets, etc., and another table on castors, which can be 
moved to the center of the room, and then pushed out of the way 
when not in use. 

A liiijli stool will be a great advantage in every kitchen. It can 
have a back or a revolving top or not, but it can be used to sit down 
on while preparing vegetables, ironing, washing dishes, etc., and the 
weariness and backache it will save will be an immense benefit. 
Sit down to your work when yon can. 

Tlie RdiKje.—^o other article of furniture in the kitchen is so 
important as the range. The set and portable ranges both have their 
advantages, but the portable range we think is preferable on the 




THE KITCHEN, PANTEY AND STOREROOM 675 

whole. We can hardly discuss at length here the merits of the 
ranges, gas stoves, etc., commonly used in the kitchen, but we have 
elsewhere discussed the care of stoves, blacking them, etc. 

Face the door leading from the kitchen to the dining-room with 
rubber, and put on a moderately stiff sj^ring. This will keep it 
closed and prevent noisy slamming. 

In (wrajigiiig for the work in the kitchen the great aim should 
be to systematize things, and save steps and labor as much as pos- 
sible. Have a good-sized sink, an iron one is best, and have it 
stand up on legs without being enclosed, as all dark corners will be 
lurking places for dirt and insects, and servants will find it so 
easy to overlook them! Have hooks under the sink on which to 
hang dish cloths, etc. Nothing else is equal to tiles on the walls back 
of the sink and range. If tiles are not used, hard wood is best; 
and finish it with oil. Have the strainer over the waste-pipe fast- 
ened down firmly — a hinged strainer is a temptation to carelessness. 
Have a grooved and sloi^ing shelf at one end, set so that it will 
drain into the sink, on which to place dishes after washing them. 
Locate the sink near the range and near a window, also, so that it 
can be well lighted, and have brackets arranged for lamps to light 
it in the evening. Be sure and provide screens for the windows in 
summer, and if a few flower pots are put on the window sills they 
will give a cheerful appearance to the room. 

There are a few little details that are quite important in secur- 
ing comfort in the kitchen. One is that the sink should be scouiei 
daily with soft soap and boiling water, and rinsed. A second is that 
as soon as the day's work is done, the window should be opened at 
the top to dispel all the unpleasant smells; and a third is that the 
floor should be scoured at least twice a week with plenty of water. 

To Clean Wooden T((bles, SJielres, Dressers, efc.^Fuie wood 
ashes sifted on from a cheese=cloth bag is better than sand. Sand, 
unless it is very fine, will roughen the wood so that it will be difficult 
to keep it clean. Always scrub with tlie gr(nn of the wood, and when 
quite clean rinse away all dirt, and dry the wood with a flannel cloth. 
Soda is better to use on wood than soap, as it keeps it whiter. 
Grease can often be conveniently removed by cutting a ripe tomato 
in two and rubbing it on the sixjt. See what we say about wood 
flpors for further points about cleaning wood. 

Keep an Account Book. — Few housekeepers realize \\\e value 
and importance of keeping an account of their household expenses. 
If an account book was kept on a shelf in the kitchen, and entrie^s 
made in it of the various expendituies, it would stop many a leak, 
and give the housewife a much clearer idea of where the money was 
going, and it would furnish a basis on which to calculate expenses. 
We firmly believe in the value and utility of such a course, and the 
labor involved is not large. 

THE PANTRY. 

The pantry is second only to the kitchen in importance, and it 
justly receives much more attention now than formerly. Have the 



670 DISHWASHING 

pantry roomy and well lighted. Much work can then be done more 
pleasantly here than in the kitchen. Place the flour barrel on a rack 
a few inches from the floor, to secure a draught underneath, which 
will prevent dampness. Have hooks at one end on which to hang 
sauce pans, etc., and have an abundance of drawers, shelves and clos- 
ets for holding china, tableware, linen, etc. There can hardly be too 
many. In arranging the pantry, systematize everything as much as 
possible, and stutly convenience and economy of labor. To the busy 
housekeeper this is always of great importance. 

Pantry shelves are best washed with the solution of hot alum 
water elsewhere recommended, to rid them of ants, cockroaches, and 
other insects. 

THE STOREROOM. 

If the arrangement of the house will admit of it, a storeroom and 
a china closet will also be a great advantage. Have a small window 
in the storeroom to aiford light. Provide also for its ventilation, and 
keep it locked. It will be a great economy to buy many articles of 
food by the cpiantity, and at favorable seasons when the prices are 
low, if only there is a suitable room in which to store them. Cainied 
goods can be bought l;)y the dozen; soap, candles, starch, etc., by the 
tjox, and so on. All foods which attract weevils or mice are best 
kept in tin boxes. These are more expensive than those of wood, but 
they are also more durable, and in the end more economical. Each 
box should be xjlainly labeled so that no mistakes about their con- 
tents can occur. 

BROOMS — About once a week dip brooms in hot soapsuds; it 
can be done on wash days when the suds are at hand. It will make 
the brooms both tough and flexible, and will increase the wear of 
both carpets and brooms. Put a screw eye in the end of the handle 
and hang up the broom— that is the best way to keei3 it. Patent 
holders may be bought, but this answers as well. Always keep a new 
broom for sweeping the carpets — the old ones may be used for the 
outside stairs and yards, or have a coarse broom for that purpose; 
never use the same broom for both. 



DISHWASHING. 

tN washing dishes either have 2 pans, or 1 large oval pan with a 
partition in the middle, which is a very convenient arrange- 
ment. About half All one pan (or division, if the latter form of 
pan is used) with water as hot as you can hold your hand in, 
shaking soap in it till a strong suds is formed. Half fill the 
other pan (or division) with clear water which is even hotter. The 
skillful dish washer will use verij hot water, as the hotter it is the 
more perfect will be the work. Then, taking each piece separately, 
wash the dishes thoroughly in the first water, b(jtli inside and out, 



DISHWASHING 677 

and in all cracks and crevices, and l)etween the tines of the forks, 
etc., and rinse them in the second water, and set them on the grooved 
dish drainer, beside the sink, if you have one. When well drained, 
wipe them dry with a clean, soft towel, as perfect drying is an impor- 
tant matter. 

In washing dishes ol)serve the i3roi)er order. First wash the 
glasses, and then the silverware, unless both of these are washed sep- 
arately in water containing ammonia but no soap, which is really the 
best way to wash them. Then wash the cups and saucers and the 
articles that have not come in contact with grease. Then wash the 
plates and dishes, which should be scraped as clean as possible, and 
renew the suds if need be. Then wash the tinware and other uten- 
sils. After washing them, put the tin, iron and granite ware in a 
moderately warm place near the fire to warm and dry for a few min- 
utes before putting them away, which will keep them fresh and 
sweet. In order that they may dry well do not turn down the glass- 
ware, etc., after willing it, until it is put away in the closet. 

Some people jjrefer to wash their delicate china and glassware in 
a wooden bowl, as there is less liability of breaking or chipping it 
than in metal ijans. Some use more soda for washing dishes, and 
less soap. It works well, and, if used judiciously, very little soap is 
needed for this jDrrpose. Under the head of " Glassware," " Silver- 
ware," etc. we give many hints about the care and cleaning of these 
articles. 

A sort of ..small dish=mop, tied to a handle, will be found very 
convenient for washing small deep articles. Every kitchen should 
be provided plentifully with towels, and they should be as regularly 
and carefully laundered as any of the other clothes. A failure to 
boil, and dry in the fresh air, is what causes the close, sour smell in 
dishcloths, with which all housekeepers are familiar, and it is wholly 
unnecessary and unpardonable. It will be best to use 3 wiping 
towels each time — 1 for the finer articles, another for the greasy 
dishes and the last for the tinware and other utensils. All the uten- 
sils of tin, iron, wood, etc., should be washed and wiped as carefully 
as the tableware. Soft crash towels are the best to use, and a dozen 
or more should be prepared at a time. 

When dishes are washed in hard water add a little milk. Put- 
ting ^ to I of a cup of milk into a dishpan half full of hot water will 
be a great improvement at any time; it will make the dishes brighter, 
and keejp the hands soft. It also makes the washing of pots and tins 
easier. 

Wash dishes, kettles, etc., soon after using them; do not let them 
lie around unwashed. 

The dishwater and soapsuds may be utilized by pouring it about 
the roots of the raspberry or currant bushes, or yoUng fruit trees. 
Few peoi^le realize what a surprisingly good fertilizer it is. No one 
having a garden should waste their soapsuds. 

Broom corn tied with strong cords near the coarse ends, into 
bundles about as large as a broom handle, makes very handy wisps 
for cleaning pots, kettles, dishes, etc. If you sprinkle cornmeal on 



078 KNIVES AND FORKS 

very greasy dishes, and then scrape them with one of these wisps be- 
fore wetting them, it will keep the dishwater mnch cleaner and better 
for use. The cornmeal can afterwards be fed to the chickens or pigs 
so that it will not be wasted. The wire dishcloth is invaluable in 
washing pots and kettles. It is always clean and never wears out. 

Many servants, or perhaps niosf servants, are unreasonably care- 
less in handling dishes, and the number broken is often appalling. 
They should be told that they will be required to replace all dishes 
which they either break or nick ( the latter is quite as bad as the 
former) or the value will be deducted from their wages. Such a rule 
will both make them more careful, and so avert much needless break- 
age, and it will develop a habit of watchfulness in the servants which 
will be a great benefit to them. 

WdHhing Glassware. — Never put glass into hot water bottom 
first, as it will then be liable to crack from its sudden expansion, but 
the finest and most delicate glass will be safe if it is slqDped in edge- 
ways, which is a fact ivoyth rememhering . 



KNIVES AND FORKS. 

TEEL knives and forks should be cleaned as quickly as possi- 
ble after being used; the longer they are left with stains on 
them the harder they Will be to clean. Then dip the blades 
oulij into a jug of hot water and wipe dry with a soft linen 
cloth. Rubbing the blades with a flannel dipped in oil, 
leaving it on 1 or 2 hours, and then wiping dry improves them. Put- 
ting on powdered quicklime, leaving it on an hour or two, and then 
wiping it ofP, is also good. A paper box cotaining slacked lime 
should be kept near them in dami3 weather; the lime attracts the 
moisture in the air and prevents their rusting. 

To scoiif ]:)iires ami forls bath brick is most commonly used, 
and is undoubtedly good. If 2 ordinary bricks are rubbed together, 
and the dust gathered up and kept for this purpose, it is about as 
good as the bath brick. Rubbing them with i^ulverized charcoal also 
gives a superior polish. In scouring, use a cork or cloth, dipped in 
hot water or soft soap, and then in whatever scouring dust is used; a 
raw potato cut in two and used with the scouring dust, instead of a 
cork, cleans beautifully. A little baking soda mixed with the brick 
dust will make it polish better. Scour briskly until all spots are 
gone; then wash the article, rinse in hot water, and wipe dry. A 
better knife board, however, is one covered with very tl ick leather, 
on which emery powder is placed. Rubbing the knives on this gives 
a fine polish, and does not wear them out so fast as the plain board 
and bath brick. 

Ironj, hone and pearl handled knlces should never be put in 
hot water. The heat will soften the cement with which the handle is 
fastened on. and it will soon loosen. Use only lukewarm soapsuds, 
and lukewarm rinsing water. Great care must be used to wipe them 



KNIVES AND FORKS 079 

dry, and see that they are thoroughly dry before laying them away. 
Soapsuds does not injure ivory. 

An excellent way to prevent putting pearl and ivory handled 
knives in water while washing them is to cut narrow slits in a piece 
of tin and set this over a jar or pail, full of hot soda water; drop the 
knives or forks in the slits and the blades and prongs will go into the 
water, but the handles will not. 

To clean ivory and bone handles, and also to take off the yellow 
tinge, see " Bone and Ivory " elsewhere. When not in constant use 
ivory handled knives should be taken out occasionally and the han- 
dles exposed to the rays of the sun to prevent their turning yellow. 

Cement for Knife and Fork Handles. — Knife and fork handles 
which become loose may be fastened on again by nearly filling the 
hollow with one of the following cements, then heat the tang and 
press it in: (1) Melt together 4 parts resin and 1 part beeswax, 
when melted, stir in 1 part fine brick dust. (2) Melt together 5 
parts pitch, 1 part hard tallow, 1 part wood ashes. (3) Melt to- 
gether 1 part resin and 1 part sulphur, and stir in 1 part l)rick dust. 
(4) Melt together 1 j)art colophony and ^ part sulphur; when cold 
grind it to a pow^der, and mix in \ as much iron filings or brick dust. 
Very tenacious. 

To keep steel knifes and f<)}-ks from rnstincj ivhcn not in nse 
there are various methods: (1) Rub them with mutton tallow (use 
the raw) and M'rap silver paper, or coarse brown paper around them. 
Do not wrap them in woolens — they do not keep well so. (2) Pre- 
pare a strong solution of soda — 4 parts soda to 1 of water; dip them 
(steel parts only — not the handles) into the solution, wijDe dry, wrap 
in coarse brown paper and keep in a dry place. (3) Have a case 
containing sifted quicklime about 8 inches deep; jDlunge them in this 
to the top of the blades, but do not let the lime touch the handles. 
(See also our article on '"Steel.") 

To Tid^e off Rust. — If knives become rusty, rub on sweet oil and 
leave it on a couple of days; then, using a lump of fresh lime, scour 
them until the rust is gone. 

To Remove the Taste of Fish. — When steel knives and forks 
taste of fish, rub them with fresh lemon or orange peel; that will re- 
move the taste. 

Hints. — The cutlery used for the table should not be used to 
cook with, nor in the kitchen. Have separate sets for each pur- 
pose. 

Never put a knife into hot grease; that will take the temper out 
of the steel and spoil it. 




680 KETTLES AND VESSELS 

KETTLES AND VESSELS. 

HEN huyincf iron utensils get the best quality, and see 
y^ that they are well finished. Heat them gradually at first, 
'(V) and they will afterwards be less likely to crack. The 
iron taste may be removed by putting in a handful of 
hay and boiling it for a little while. Tin and wooden 
ware may be sweetened the same way. A gootl way to treat new iron 
utensils is to first wash, and wipe dry; then rub over the inside with 
some pure oil or fat; let stand a few hours and wash again; then heat 
gradually over the fire; then wash again with soap and water, rinse, 
wipe dry, and then rub hard with a dry towel; this will smooth the 
surface. As they are used, and the surface becomes smooth, they 
become more valuable. Do not wipe them with a wet cloth and then 
put on the stove to dry, as that will tend to rust them, and make the 
surface rust. 

Utensils of all kinds, iron, tin or wood, should be cleaned with 
the ulmost care. 

Always fill a bowl or pan with water as soon as through with it, 
if you are not then ready to wEfsh it, in order to prevent the remnants 
of the substance which it contained from hardening on the surface, 
and so becoming difficult of removal. 

Fryinci'pans, gramie ware, etc., should be frequently scoured. 
Whenever they begin to look dull and rough, and all traces of the 
food are not removed by soap and water, scour them with sapolio or 
bath brick. The former is best; but keejj the articles fresh and 
bright. 

To remove tJie fur on the IxettJe, if made of iron or copper, place 
it empty over the fire for a short time; the scaly deposit will be loos- 
ened so that it can be removed easily. A tea kettle may be prevent- 
ed from becoming furred by putting a clean oyster shell in it. 

A J{etfle may he easitij cleaned by putting in a little hot water, 
putting on the cover, and boiling it a short time; the steam loosens 
the dirt, and it can be readily scoured off afterwards. 

Ii'on Pots or Kettles. — A new iron pot or kettle, before being- 
cooked in, should have ashes or hay boiled in it; then scour it well 
with soajjsuds and sand; then rinse it out and boil clean water in it 
for 2 or 3 hours. Many things may be safely cooked in iron which 
are generally cooked in granite=ware, if it is kept scrupulously clean. 
The outside of iron pots and kettles can l)e washed with hot water 
and soap, or soapsuds and sand, (xrease an iron pot with new lard 
after using, to prevent its rusting. 

If aiiyiln'iu/ heco}ues hiiriied on a 1:cllic scrape it off with an 
oyster or clam shell, which is better than a knife. 

If a copper teatxcttle is used it can be kept bright and clean 
by scrubbing it off every morning with a cloth dipped in sour milk, 
and then washing it with clean water. A sohition of salt and butter- 
milk will also clean a copper kettle readily; then rinse it well. 



KETTLES AND VESSELS 681 

Before coolxing fish in a Kef fie put it over the fire and heat it; if 
any odor arises clean it out with soda or whiting before using. If 
the smallest particle of fish remains in a kettle the next fish cooked 
in it is apt to be tainted. 

Removing Disagreeable Odors. — Disagreeable odors, like those 
from onions, cabbage, fish, etc., sometimes cling to cooking utensils, 
even after the most careful washing. (1) If they are put in hot water 
containing a little washing soda, potash or concentrated lye, and 
afterwards washed with hot suds, then rinsed and dried, they will be 
perfectly sw^eet. (2) Odors like those from musk, cod liver oil, etc., 
can be removed from pans or vessels by using ground mustard mixed 
with a little water. Flaxseed meal, or any other of the oily seeds, or 
almond cake, or bitter almonds, will answer the same purpose. Scale 
pans or any vessel may be thus cleansed. 

Cake tins should be washed like other dishes, first thoroughly 
inside and out with soapsuds, then rinsed, wiped clean, and thor- 
oughly dried. 

PiepJaies, haking-dislies, pans, which have been used for bak- 
ing and become rancid, pots, etc., can be cleaned by putting them in 
cold water, adding some washing soda, and bringing them to a boil; 
then set them aside to cool, and then scrub them thoroughly with hot 
soapsuds, using a small brush; scald 2 or 8 times with hot water, and 
wipe dry. This will keep them sw^eet and clean. 

A sauce-'pan which is clean outside will cook more quickly than 
one which is dirty, and all cooking utensils should be thoroughly 
clean on the outside. Half the smudges on hands, face, and clothing 
of the slovenly cook come from the outside of pots, pans, and kettles. 

After making pastrij put water in the bowl used, scrape the 
board clean and wash it if necessary, and also the rolling=j)in, 
although a neat pastry maker scarcely soils a board. If either a mar- 
ble slab or a glass rollingpin is used they should be washed each 
time. 

A frjjingpan should not have the inside scraped, as anything 
afterwards fried in it is liable to stick on. or burn the pan. If the 
inside is black, rub it with a hard crust of bread, and wash it after- 
wards with hot water and sand soaj^. Ordinarily, wash it in hot 
water and soda, without soap or sand; then rinse, dry thoroughly, and 
keep in a dry place. 

For cleaning porcelain kettles, etc., see "Porcelain." 

Sieves. — Wash sieves with soap and water, rinse thorougldy, and 
let them dry of their own accord. 

Soap stone griddles are better than iron ones. After lifting one 
mess of cakes, rub the griddle with broM'u paper before putting on 
another mess; do not grease it as that would spoil it. When through 
with it rub it clean with sand paper before putting it away; if a 
little rough at first, it will soon be smoothed with the sand paper. 

Tea Kettles. — The kettle in which water is boiled for tea, of 
whatever material it is made, should have a lid that shuts closely, 
and be kept quite free from fur. If water, especially hard water, be 



682 REFRIGERATORS 

constantly boiled in the same vessel, which is filled up from time to 
time and never emptied, fur will accumulate. A clean oyster shell or 
a marble or two put into the kettle will jjrevent this by continually 
moving about as the water boils, but a much cleaner and better plan 
is to never let a kettle stand with a small quantity of water in it. 
When not actually needed for use pour out the water, rinse with 
clean water, wipe, and keep it dry. 

Teapois. — To keep a teapot clean and sweet great care is needed. 
Immediately after use, remove the old leaves, scald the teapot out 
with fresh hot water, and wipe it quite dry. Never allow the inside 
to become stained with the old leaves; no good tea can be made in a 
stained teapot. The smell alone should reveal this, and yet many 
persons take no pains to keep their teapots clean inside. A new tea- 
pot thus treated from the beginning will give little trouble and never 
become stained. 

Never put a teapot away, even for a few hours, with the lid 
closed. When the lid is closed, dampness gathers, and the pot soon 
becomes musty. A small stick will keep the lid open, enough to 
admit the air and keep it sweet. 

To clean a musty teapot fill it with boiling water and add some 
strong washing soda; leave it in a day or two, and then wash out 
thoroughly 

Coffee-Pois. — For the care of cofPee=pots, see our article on mak- 
ing coffee in the chapter on "Beverages." 



REFRIGERATORS. 

REFRIGERATOR is so useful in preserving food in hot 
weather, etc., that it is a very i^rofi table investment. Its 
care is important. Twice a week during the season every 
part, except the ice compartment, should be gone over, the 
shelves taken out, and all the surfaces washed and wiped 
carefully. Once a week use some of the "washing soda" solution 
given among the " Useful Articles." Care must be taken that no 
fragment of fish, meat, or other substance lodges in any corner to de- 
cay and taint the contents. Once in 2 weeks will be often enough to 
wash the ice compartment. 

All strong smelling articles, as well as the milk and butter, 
should be kept covered, and it is a good idea to keep some charcoal 
in the refrigerator, changing it occasionally. 

Do not have the waste pipe connected directly with the sewer. 
If the waste water is to run into the sewer, let it drip into a tunnel 
connected with a pipe running to the general drainage system of the 
house, keeping in this way, a current of air between the drain pipe 
and the refrigerator. It is important that there should be no connec- 
tion between any place where food is kept and any drain or recepta- 
cle of waste matter. 




SINKS AND DRAINS 683 

Two refrigerators are desirable, one for milk and butter alone, 
and one for meat, vegetables and other food 

If a dish containing a good sized lump of unslaeked lime is 
placed on a shelf in the refrigerator it will absorb the moisture, and 
so help to prevent mold and keep the food from spoiling. 

If through the carelessness of servants, butter, grease, etc., has 
come in contact with the zinc lining of the refrigerator and there is 
a musty smell which cannot be removed with the soda=wash, mix a 
quart of quick lime, and apply with a paint brush to every i3art of 
the zinc lining — top as well as bottom and sides, washing it on thick 
like paint. If the wooden racks or trays cannot be made sweet by 
the use of strong soda water and drying in the hot sun, paint them 
also with the thick lime^wash and you will be well pleased with the 
result. 



SINKS AND DRAINS. 

I LAN for a window over or near the sink. Glazed stoneware is 
the best material with which to line sinks. Iron is often 
used. Lead is not suitable as grease and soap have a ten- 
dency to adhere to it, and it is difficult to keep such sinks 
clean. A lusty iron sink may be cleaned by letting it dry, 
and then rub it with kerosene on a woolen cloth. Or rub it with 
emery powder, or with vinegar and salt. To prevent an iron sink 
from rusting, dissolve ^ lb. of asphaltum in spirits of turpentine, and 
apply it with a brush. Every day when through with the sink wash 
it with soap and water, or soda and water, and thus keep it uni- 
formly clean. All the sink brushes should be washed in soapsuds, 
or soda and water, once a week. See the "washing soda" given 
among the "L^seful Articles." 

Vegetable Wafers. — If the water in which cabbages, greens, on- 
ions, etc., have been boiled is jjoured down the kitchen sink, it is apt 
to emit an odor which may permeate the whole house. It is much 
better to throw the water in which vegetables have been boiled in the 
back yard away from the house. If such water is poured down the 
sink, even when there are sewers and traps in good working order, 
some deodorizing disinfectant should be poured down immediately 
afler. 

Refuse. — Never sweej) any refuse matter towards or down a 
drain pipe; and be sure and keep the holes or openings clear. 

Fhisliing Pipes. — Some jjeople think that when the water trick- 
les or runs slowly, it flushes out the pipe and clears the drain. That 
is a great mistake. A driblet of water is useless for that purpose, 
and is a sheer waste. What is needed to flush and clear a j)ipe or 
drain, is a deluge of water, which acts like a torrent, sweeping things 
before it. 

The drain pipe should, once or twice a week, have a good disin- 
fectant poured down it. Dissolve 5 cents worth of copperas in ^ pail 



fi84 CELLARS 

of water and pour it down. This is the best thing to use, and it will 
kill all foul smells and keep the drain pure. Carbolic acid and chlor- 
ide of lime answer well, but their smell is offensive to many people, 
and the latter spoils food exjaosed to its odor. 

To prevent tJie accuniuhttion of greasi/ deposifs there should be 
poured down the kitchen sink once or twice a week regularly, the 
year round, 1 or 2 buckets of boiling hot water containing common 
soda or potash. This will not injure the pijies in the least, and it 
will keep them clean. It converts the fats into soft soap, and clears 
drains which at first apjjear to be hopelessly choked; 2 or 8 doses 
may occasionally be needed. Copperas is sometimes used, but for 
this purpose soda or potash is better. 

All the closet:^, sinks, and catcJi basins in the house should 
have some good disinfectant poured down them every 3 or 4 
weeks. 

To detect a leak in a -waste pipe go into a room where the 
waste j)ipe starts, slAit the door, and pour down it a jjail of boiling 
water containing 2 or 3 oz. oil of peppermint; let some one follow 
along the pipe who has not inhaled the peppermint; its strong, pun- 
gent odor will readily be noticed at the point of leakage. 

Sewer Gas. — When it is suspected that sewer gas is escaping 
from a pipe or drain it may be readily tested by moistening some 
muslin in acetate of lead; M^-ap a single layer of this muslin over the 
pipe where the leak is suspected, and the cloth will be darkened by 
the escaping gas, if there is any. 



CELLARS. 

^^ELLARS instead of being neglected, as they too often are, 
I \y should be considered as one of the most important features 
I a) of a home. They should be kept scrupulously clean, and 
^^ well drained and ventilated. Many cases of disease can be 
directly traced to ilhkept cellars. Look after the drainage, 
and see that the cellar is kept as dry as possible. Attend also to the 
ventilation. A brick taken out from the bottom of the chimney flue 
makes a good opening for the escape of the damp air. Ventilate at 
the bottom when possible, so as to change the whole air in the cel- 
lar. 

Open and ventilate it as early in the spring as the weather is at 
all suitable, and during the whole season admit as much fresh air as 
possible. During summer the windows should be opened for venti- 
lation mostly at night — the last thing before retiring — and kept 
closed during the day. This allows the cool air to circulate during 
the night. The object to aim at is to keep the cellar cool and dry. 
Air admitted on a warm day into a cool cellar, will deposit its mois- 
ture on the cellar walls, and defeat the very object sought. Lime will 
absorb the moisture and noxious gases, if they cannot be expelled, or 
their formation prevented. A peck of lime will absorb about 8 



CELLARS 685 

quarts of water, and in this way a cellar can be soon dried, even in 
the hottest weather. Charcoal is also a great absorber of gases, and 
when a cellar cannot be well ventilated, and has a damp smell, a 
few plates of charcoal set around will greatly improve the air. A 
tub of broken ice with salt in it will lower the temperature of a cellar 
at any time. 

In cleaning the cellar in the spring, change the places of all 
boxes, barrels, etc., in order that the dami^ness beneath them may 
thoroughly dry out. Sweep overhead,. and down the walls, and clean 
out all nooks and corners. Take special joains to clear out all 
remnants of vegetables, and all shreds of growing things, in order 
that they may hot remain to decay and pollute the air. Exhalations 
from such things will find their way into the rooms above and often 
injure the health of the family. It is an excellent plan to white- 
wash the walls and ceiling, making the whitewash yellow with cojd- 
peras, and add a little salt. That will kill all insects and sweeten the 
cellar. Carry out and destroy all rubbi.sh, and sprinkle thoroughly 
all over the cellar bottom, a strong solution of copperas water and 
common salt, put in a watering pot; a second sprinkling also will be 
all the better. The unpleasant odor which often taints milk, meat, 
etc., can be prevented by using about 1 oz. of carbolic acid to a gal- 
Ion of whitewash. 

Chloride of Lime. — As the odor of chloride of lime will spoil 
the flavor of all foods, it should not be used to disinfect cellars. 

A hanging sJielf in the cellar is indispensable, and a dark cu^d- 
board for storing canned fruit. The bottom of this cupboard or 
closet should be well set up from the bottom of the cellar to prevent 
dampness and mold. 

Cellar windows should (1 ) be protected on the outside with iron 
bars, strong coarse wire netting, or strong wooden bars; (2) inside 
this outer screen should be a wire screen, fine enough to keej) out 
flies and other insects; (8) the glass windows should be hung on 
hinges to open and shut in a moment's time when needed. A cellar 
should be sui3plied with light. 

Divide the cellar iuio different rooms which can be kept at dif- 
ferent temperatures, if the cellar is to be used for various louriDoses 
such as storing vegetables and fuel, and containing the furnace. 

Ttie Floor. — Make the cellar floor of about 6 inches of concrete, 
and cover it with Portland cement or asphalt. In damp soil in\i til- 
ing under the floor, and so drain the water out and carry it away 
from the house. Remember that a cellar free from dampness and 
ground air is essential to health, and if economy is necessary other 
things should be sacrificed to obtain this. 

Tlie Walls. — If cellar walls are built of brick, water will 
pass through however thick they may be, unless they are built 
hollow. In building, put a thin outer wall 2 or 3 inches from the 
main one, binding the two together by an occasional brick laid 
across. Make the wall air and water tight if possible. 

If cellar walls are damp, apply one of the compositions given 
elsewhere for dam^) walls. 



686 THE ICEHOUSE AND ICE 

When cellars have been flooded tliey should be thorouohly dis- 
infected after the inundation subsides. About the best thing for 
this purpose is chloride of zinc; copperas is cheaper, and answers 
fairly well, but is not equal to the zinc. 

THE QARBAQE PAIL OR BARREL.— Nec?lected garbage pails 
are a sure and ready breeding place for dangerous and disease breed- 
ing bacteria; and yet many otherwise neat housekeepers often neglect 
them. They should be regularly emptied and carefully cleaned. On 
the weekly washing day, when there is a good supply of suds, is a 
good time for cleaning them. Take an old broom and scrub the pail 
thoroughly with the suds, and scrub the lid also. Then throw in a 
solution of washing soda or lye, in hot water, and scrub it around 
with a little whisk, touching every part with this disinfecting solu- 
tion; then rinse it with clean water, drain it, and set in the hot sun 
to dry. 



THE ICE=HOUSE AND ICE. 

fCE in the summer is a great convenience, almost a necessity, and 
a supply can be i^ut up by the people in the country much 
more easily than many imagine. An icediouse need not be put 
• under ground even in part, and the expense of building a mod- 
erate sized one is small, or a corner can be partitioned off in 
the shed, or even in the barn. The best lumber is not needed, but it 
v^^ill be a good plan to coat it inside with coal tar to prevent its de- 
caying from its constant exposure to dampness. The roof should be 
tight, and provision made at the bottom for drainage so that any 
water which comes from melting ice may run otf freely. It is not 
necessary to use matched lumber, but a space of 12 to 15 inches 
should be left between the ice and the wnlh, when i)acking it away, 
which should be filled in with sawdust, and as that settles down, 
more should be added. Chaff or straw cut fine, may be used instead 
of the sawdust if that is hard to get. As the ice melts rather more 
at the sides than at the top, the house should be rather wide than 
deep. The best time to cut the ice is as soon in the winter as it is 
frozen sufficiently thick, and before it has been thawed or honey- 
combed by the sun, as happens later in the season. If packed 
away when the thermometer is about zero it can be handled most 
easily, and keeps best. Put a foot or more of sawdust on thcfioor 
before packing in any ice. Cut the ice in even blocks, and pat-k it 
as closely as possible, tilling all crevices with sawdust, and when the 
ice is all stored spread 12 or 15 inches of sawdust on the top. Do 
not allow any openings for drafts. The ice will cool the air sur- 
rounding it, and if that is carried away and warm air comes in to 
fill its place, it will hasten the melting of the ice; also when taking 
out ice for use, cover the openings which are formed with sawdust, so 
that none will be left exposed to the air. By this simple plan fami- 
lies in the country and villages can lay in a year's supply of ice at a 
slight expense. 



THE ICE-HOUSE AND ICE 687 

HINTS ABOUT ICE. — Ice should only be cut from clear streams 
and ponds in which the water is fresh and pure. The poisonous 
properties and living organisms contained in impure water are not 
destroyed by freezing, although many people erroneously think they 
are. Much of the ice sold in our cities and towns is utterly unfit for 
drinking purposes because of these contaminations which often en- 
danger the health. Always rinse ice well before sending it to the 
table. 

To Keep Ice. — It is sometimes desirable to keep a small quan- 
tity of ice where there is no refrigerator. In that case, put the ice on 
a dish, cover it with a napkin, set it on a pillow, put another pillow 
over it, and it can be kept a week or so. Or, wrap it ujj in pa^^er 
(newspapers are as good as any kind) and then cover it with woolen 
or other cloths. Each time the ice is opened, dry paper should be 
supplied. The sheets can be dried and used over again if de- 
sired. Wrapped in 3 or 4 thicknesses of woolen cloth it will keep for 
some time if set in a cool place. 

To Cut Ice. — Ice may be readily cut by tapping it with a 
hatchet, or any shari): pointed instrument. An awl will break ice 
easily, and is much better to use than to batter Vi\) knives, forks, etc., 
trying to cut it. When not in use, stick the point of the awl into a 
cork. Ice may be cut into small pieces of any shape by merely tap- 
ping it with the jpoint of a needle. 

To Keep Ice 'Wafer. — Ice=water may readily be kept a long time 
by putting cotton batting between two thicknesses of paper (use 
heavy brown paper, or 2 or 8 sheets of newspaper) and making it 
into a paiMike covering, large and deep enough to set over the pitch- 
er and completely cover it. A cheap and handy ice pitcher is thus 
readily make. 

Freezing Mixtures. — Ice in combination with salt is the best 
material for freezing ices, etc., but when ice is not readily obtained, 
or when traveling, or for cooling water or food in sick rooms, etc., 
where ice is not readily managed, freezing mixtures are often very 
convenient. The following may at times be useful: (1) Thoroughly 
mix 1 part by weight of muriate of ammonia with 2 parts nitrate of 
potash or saltpetre; next mix and stir well together equal cpiantities 
of this mixture and finely crushed washing soda; put them in a freez- 
ing machine and pour on as much cold water as will dissolve them. 
(2) Take equal parts of muriate of ammonia and nitrate of potash; 
when recjuired for use add more than double its weight of water. (8) 
Use sabammoniac, 5 parts; nitrate of potash, 5 parts; Glaubers' salts, 
8 parts; water 16 parts. With this the thermometer can be lowered 
to 10" F. 

All freezing mixtures have some solid substance which rapidly turns to a 
liquid, and in so doing it absorbs heat from the air or surrounding substances and 
so lowers their temperatui-e. It is on this principle that their value depends. 




688 WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC. 

WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC. 

WELLS. 

N ample supply of pure water is of the first importance to the 
health of any family. In cities and villages there is great 
danger that the water in wells may be contaminated, and 
even in the country that is a source of danger that should be 
guarded against. As a rule deep wells are safer from con- 
tamination than shallow ones, but they may be subject to pollution 
under certain circumstances. As to the least distance between wells 
and cesspools compatible with safety, while the London Local Gov- 
ernment Board is satisfied with 20 to 130 yards, other authorities in- 
sist on 200 yards. It is safe to say that cessjwols should be as far 
removed from wells as possible. 

Frequently in country villages, wells and cesspools are so inter- 
mixed that the entire bed of water is polluted, and then all the wells 
are unsafe. In isolated houses, if the well and cesspool are some 
distance apart, pollution will depend chiefiy on the direction of the 
movement of the underground water. If this movement is from the 
cesspool toward the well, the polluted water will fiow towards it; if 
the movement is in the other direction, the polluted water will fiow 
away from the well. Hence, before sinking a well where sources of 
contamination are in the vicinity, the direction of the flow of the 
underground water should, if possible, be ascertained. It is not safe 
to assume that this fiow is in the direction of the fall of the land. 
While it is often so, it is not always. Generally, however, it would 
not be wise to have a cesspool higher than a well in its neighbor- 
hood. Contamination from surface soakage can frequently be pre- 
vented by raising the top of the well above the adjoining ground, 
and paving the surface round the well with a slope, so that the rain= 
water runs away from it. 

It is best to always have the land around the well slope away 
from it wherever possible. People who throw slops and refuse near 
a well act with criminal carelessness — rank poison might about as 
well be put in the water. Don't commit suicide that way. A well 
should always be covered over so as to exclude all leaves and fiying 
matter. 

In cities the public authorities should supply wholesome water. 
The consumer should see that it is not contaminated on his premises. 
Boil the water if there is doubt about its purity, as boiling kills all 
disease breeding germs, and is the readiest way to insure safety to 
the health. The water should actively boil 20 to 30 minutes to be 
effectual — less than that is not a sufficient safeguard. 

To examine a well or cisiern refiect in the sunlight at morning 
or evening with a good-sized looking-glass If there are any con- 
taminating articles present, like leaves, etc., they can be readily dis- 
covered in this way, and should be removed. 

CdrJxiiiic Acid Gas or "Choke Damp'''' in Wells. — This is 
heavier than air and will often collect at the bottom of wells, 



WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC. 689 

cisterns, etc. Before entering tlieni a lighted candle should be 
lowered; if it continues to burn, no such gases are jaresent; but if it 
goes out, it will be dangerous for any one to enter until the jDoisonous 
gases are exjjelled. To do this, throw down a peck or two of unslaked 
lime; as it slacks it will generate heat enough to start an upward 
current and drive out the foul air. Test it again, however, before 
entering. A few very hot bricks thrown in will often answ^er the 
same i^urpose, or some lighted shavings or paper thrown in may 
answer the purpose. 

Recovvriug Lost Articles. — Any small steel or iron article lost 
in a well or cistern may be recovered by letting dowm a strong 
magnet with a cord. 

CISTERNS. 

The position of a cistern should be carefully chosen. It should 
be where it can be got at, and should be arranged so that the air can 
get at it to ventilate it. It should not be located where it will be 
exposed to foul odors, nor to a steam laden atmosphere. 

Linings for cisterns are numerous. Cast iron cisterns made of 
plates bolted together, if kept full and not subject to rust, are unob- 
jectionable. (Jdivdnized iron linings are attacked by some waters 
and are not suitable for any cistern from which the water will be 
used for drinking purposes. Sheet lead is sometimes used. While 
it cannot be said that all water drawn from a leaden cistern will 
injuriously atfect the health if used for drinking, it is not the best 
lining to use. Some waters attack lead more readily than others. A 
whitish coating formed on the interior of a leaddined cistern is due 
to a chemical alteration of its surface, and then the contained water 
may be drunk with more or less impunity. In cleaning out a lead= 
lined cistern never scrape the surface, but merely wash it down with 
a moderately hard brush, because the effort •should be not to remove 
this whitish coating, but only to clean it. Zinc is one of the worst 
linings, and should never be used for a cistern containing water that 
will be used for drinking. Wooden t(iid:s o)- Ixirrels should not be 
employed for storing water anyM'here in a house, as they become 
lined with a low vegetable growth detrimental to health. Slate and 
stone make as good linings as can be devised, but are little used 
because of their weight. A coiient lining is nearly as good. A good 
cement to use is made of 2 parts sand and 1 part hydraulic lime. 
Mix these together tirst, and then add the water, mixing it as needed, 
as it begins to harden soon. The coating should be an inch thick. 

Cisterns are sometimes built with a l)rick partition through the 
center, and the wmter being let into one part filters through into the 
other. Although this does not make a perfect filter-, it answers fairly 
well, but such cisterns should be carefully cleaned out from time to 
time. 

All cisterns should be cleaned at least once a year. 

D(j not build cisterns under tln^ house, as the air above tliem 
will then always be bad, and 'they cannot readily be cleaned. On no 

41 



690 WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC. 

account allow any connection between the cistern and any receptacle 
of filth; water is contaminated too easily. 

Never allow an overflow pipe from a cistern to run to a cesspool 
or privy vault, for gases may thus enter and permeate the water. 
See what we say elsewhere about the absorbability of water. Many 
lives have been thus lost. Filter or boil cistern water before drink- 
ing it. 

A wooden pump in a cistern will soon decay, become covered 
with moss and collect filth. The best thing is an iron pii3e, with the 
pump in the kitchen. 

The cheapest of all cisterns are made by setting fire to the 
inside of kerosene barrels; as soon as the kerosene is burned out and 
the barrel begins to char, turn the top down onto the ground to 
smother 4he flame. These barrels may be placed at the rear of 
buildings under the eaves. Over each one intended for clean water 
tie a square of cheese=cloth with a sag in the center; this keeps out 
dirt and mosquitoes. After being emptied once or twice, and refilled 
by the rains, the water ( after well boiling) will be fit to use for cook- 
ing purposes. In a dry time a little water should be left in the 
barrels to prevent shrinkage. In this way they will be sweet and 
good for years — one known to the writer has been used 20 years. 
(This answers in the country where wood is burned and there is 
little soot, but is hardly adajjled to cities.) 

WATER. 

Testing Water. — The impurities in water, for which tests are 
applied, embrace those which att'ect its character for drinking, cook- 
ing and washing purposes. For cooking and washing, water cannot 
be too soft. For drinking, however, it should be moderately hard, as 
it supplies much of the lime required in building up the bones of the 
body. The chief evil in drinking water, is the presence of organic 
ferments, by which are meant all contaminati(jn from sewers or 
drains, decaying matter, etc. The simplest and easiest method of 
neutralizing these organic ferments is by baiting. All the drinking 
water should be thus treated when such contamination is suspected, 
for boiling practically neutralizes all organic contaminations by kill- 
ing all bacteria and spores. 

Heisch gives a very simple test for the purity of water. He 
says that good water should be free from color, unpleasant odor and 
flavor, and should aft'ord a good lather with a small proportion of 
soap. If h pint of water be placed in a clean, colorless, glass-stop- 
Ijered bottle, a few grains of the best white lump sugar added, and 
the bottle freely exposed to the daylight in the window of a warm 
room, the liquid should not become turbid even after exposure for a 
week or 10 days. If, while the stojjper remains secure, it becomes 
turbid, it is open to grave suspicion of sewage contamination; while 
if it remains clear it is almost certainly safe for drinking and all 
domestic purposes. 

Dr. Hagar has i)roposed a very simple and valuable test for the 
presence of fermentable poisonous matter. It consists in putting a 



WELLS, CISTERNS, WATER, ETC. 691 

tablespoon of a clear solution of tannin in a tumbler of the water. 
If any gelatinous turbidity appears within the first hour, the water is 
unwholesome. If turbidity occurs within 2 hours the water is not to 
be recommended. If no turbidity occurs within 5 hours, the water 
may be considered good. 

Test for Hard or Soft Water. — Dissolve a small quantity of good soap in 
alcohol; let a few drops fall in a glass of the water. If it turns milky it is hard; if 
not it is soft. 

Test for Earthy Matters or Alkali. — (1) Take litmus paper dipped in vinegar, 
and if, on immersion, the paper returns to its true shade the water does not 
contain earthy matter or alkali; otherwise it does. (2) If a few drops of syrup be 
added to a glass of water containing earthy matter, it will turn green. 

Test for Acid. — Put in a piece of litmus paper; if it turns red there must be 
acid present. If it precipitates on adding lime water, it is carbonic acid. If a 
blue sugar paper is turned red, it is a mineral acid, and there would be reason to 
suspect poisonous metallic salts. 

Test for Carbonic Acid. — Take equal parts of the water to be tested, and clear 
lime water, and pour them together. If combined or free carbonic acid is present, 
a precipitate is seen, in which, if a few drops of muriatic acid is added, an efifer- 
vescence commences. 

Test for Iron. — (1) Boil a little nut=gall, and add to the water. If it turns 
grey or slate color, iron is present. Or, (2) dissolve a little prussiate of potash 
and add it; if iron is present it will turn blue. 

Test for Lime. — Into a glass of the water put 2 drops of oxalic acid, and blow 
upon it; if it gets milky, lime is present. 

Test for Magnesia. — Boil the water to one-twentieth part of its weight and 
then drop a few grains of neutral carbonate of ammonia into a glass of it, and a 
few drops of phosphate of soda; if magnesia be present it will fall to the bottom. 

To Softenji Hard Water. — Water is said to be hard when it 
curdles soap. To soften hard water there are various methods: (1) 
Boiling water softens it greatly. (2) A little quicklime (2 oz. will 
answer for 20 or 25 gallons ) added to water and allowed to stand over 
night will soften it; the lime unites with the carbonates, and jjrecij)- 
itates to the bottom. (3) Put wood ashes or a gallon of good lye 
into a barrel of water; it will soften the water in 1 night. (4) 
Ammonia will soften water, but is too expensive to use for large quan- 
tities. (5) A boiler | full of water can be softened by adding 2 oz. 
of sal soda. (6) Dissolve a box of concentrated lie in 1 quart of 
water; keep it bottled; 1 teaspoon of this will soften half a boiler 
of water. (7) A little borax will soften cistern water hardened by 
longstanding. (8) Hard spring water may be softened by adding a 
little chalk. 

The hardness of water is caused by the presence of certain salts, like those of 
lime and magnesia, sulphate of lime (gypsum) being the most common. When 
carbonate of soda is added it unites with the sulphate of lime, forming carbonate 
of lime, which settles in solid form. 

Wafer for Cooking. — Draw your water for cooking from the 
cold water faucets — never from the hot water faucets. For either 
drinking or cooking do not use water which runs through zinc lined 
iron pipes; it will do for washing, but that is all. (See what we say 
elsewhere about galvanized iron ware. ) 

To Clarifji Rain-Walcr. — When rain water in a cistern has 
become dark and greasy looking, it may be clarified quite well with 



692 WELLS, CISTERNS, WATEE, ETC. 

powdered alum and borax; J lb. of each will answer for 50 barrels or 
more. The sediment will settle in a few hours. 

Charcoal put in a bag and hung in a barrel or cistern of dirty or 
foul smelling water will purify it. 

" Wigglers" in cistern water may be easily cleared out by put- 
ting in a few small fish (minnows); they will eat the ''wigglers," 
and clear the water. 

To Purify Stagnant Water. — Fit a suitable pipe on a pair of 
bellows, and drive as much air as possible through the water; then 
allow the water to settle and it will be fit for use. 

The Absorbing Power of Water. -Few people realize the ab- 
sorbing power of water. A pail full set in the room, at the ordinary 
temi^erature, will absorb 1- pint of carbonic acid gas; ice^water will 
absorb a quart, i. e., twice as much, because when very cold its ab- 
sorbing power is greater. It purifies the air, but it will be readily 
seen that water is not fit to drink after standing for a time in a room. 

To purify the air in a room a pail or pitcher of cold water, 
changed frequently, is a simple and valuable aid, and for the reason 
stated above. 

Water may be kept cool when you have no ice, by putting it 
in a jar or tin jDail, covering it with coarse wet cloths or carpets, and 
putting it in a cool, shady place, where there is a breeze or draft if 
possible; the rapid evaporation from the wet cloths, cools the water 
by absorbing the heat from it. 

Filtering Water. — An inexpensive domestic filter may be made 
as follows: Take a good common iron pail to the tin shop and have 
a hole cut in the center of the bottom about \ inch in diameter, and 
have a piece of tin about | inch deep soldered around it to form a 
spout to direct the flow of water in a uniform direction. Obtain 
some fine stones or pebbles, wash them thoroughly, and place them 
about 2 in. deep at the bottom of the pail. On this put a sheet of 
horse hair cloth or canton flannel, cut to the size of the pail. On 
this place a layer of animal charcoal al^out -3 or 4 in. thick. Any char- 
coal is good for this j)urpose, but animal charcoal is much better than 
wood. It can be bought of the druggist. Put in a second sheet of 
the cloth, and on this put a layer of iron filings, borings or turnings, 
mixed with an equal quantity of fine charcoal. The iron filings 
should be washed in a hot solution of soda or i^otash before using 
them, to remove oil or other impurities, and then rinse them care- 
fully in clear water. The finer they are the better. Have this layer 
about 6 in. thick. Then place another sheet of the cloth, and on it 
about 2 in. of fine, clean silicious sand, like that used by glassmakers, 
and on top of this more cloth, with a few pebbles to hold it down 
and you will have a perfect filter, producing a remarkably pure drink- 
ing water. Of course, a wooden keg may be used in place of the iron 
Ijail suggested, with a faucet rigged at the side to draw off the water; 
but the 'vtater should filter through slowly to obtain the best results, 
and the deeper the bed of iron filings and charcoal the more speedy 
their action will be. Any filter whatever will in time become con- 



WELLS, CISTERNS, WATEE, ETC. 693 

t.amJnated with the impurities collected from the water — the length 
of time depending on the amount of the impurities. For this reason 
the filings should be taken out occasionally (say once in 6 or 8 
months ) and the ijebbles and sand thoroughly cleaned with hoiliiKj 
water and soda or potash, and then rinsed, and the charcoal and iron 
renewed. Because of failure to do this many old filters become so 
clogged with impurities that they become very filthy, and almost 
worse than none at all. The value of charcoal as a filtering material 
is well known, and the value of the iron consists in the fact that it 
attracts oxygen to its surface, which is changed to ozone, by which 
the organic matter in the water is consumed. 

Professor Dobroslavine, the chemist, of St. Petersburg, says that 
if to each 12 quarts of water there are added 8 grains of jDer^chloride 
of iron and 12 grains of crystallized carbonate of soda, it will cause a 
precipitate which will carry down all suspended impurities, leaving 
the water clear at the end of 45 minutes. 

Pure snow when melted produces ^ its bulk in pure, soft water. 

PUMPS AND PIPES. 

To Prevent the Freezing of Water Pipes — In the winter the 
best way in cities where hydrants are used is to have a valve ar- 
ranged so that the water can be turned ofp and the i)ipes emi^tied at 
night. Letting the water run slowly prevents freezing, but is waste- 
ful. Where pumps are used a simple and etfective plan is to take 
out the lower valve on the approach of winter, and drive a tack under 
it, so arranged that the valve will not close perfectly tight. This will 
not prevent the pumj) from working, but will allow the water to leak 
back into the cistern or well. The pump will have to be primed on 
starting it, but that is easily done. Another way to prevent the 
freezing of water pipes is by having a small spherical cistern of thin 
copper attached to the lower part of the water pipe, and a gas burner 
fixed below it. When the gas jet is lighted the cistern becomes a 
boiler on a small scale, circulating sufficient warmth through the 
pipes to prevent their freezing. The household may be saved from 
the winter's freezing mishaps by this simple device. 

A frozen pnmp may be thawed out most quickly by putting a 
small pipe or tube down directly on to the ice, and then pouring in 
the hot water through this pijie. It strikes directly on the ice and 
thaM'S it 10 times as fast as it would if poured into the pump without 
the pipe or tube. 

To thaw out frozen pipes the- readiest way is to jjour hot water 
on cloths laid over the frozen part. The freezing will generally be 
found to have taken place at a bend, or near a window or exposed 
place. If the pipe is slightly under ground it may be thawed by 
putting a heap of lime on the earth, wetting it a little, and covering 
it with blankets; it will draw the frost out of the ground and thaw 
out the w^ater pipes. 

Water pipes which are liable to freeze, as when they run along 
cold walls, etc., will be somewhat protected by wrapping them with 
some non-conducting material like felt, minerab wool, asbestos, etc, 



694 ROOFS, DOORS, WALLS, ETC. 

For a leakage in an iron pipe, mix iron filings into a stiff 
paste with vinegar. Dry the pipe and fill the crack with this paste; 
it will soon harden and stop all leakage. It will also securely fasten 
a thin iron plate over a hole too large to stop with the i^aste alone. 
For other cements see " Cements." 

To prevent the ''fur''' i. e., the scale or lining crust which so 
•frequently chokes up hot water pipes, dissolve in the water some sal- 
ammoniac (muriate of ammonia) at the rate of 1 oz. to every 60 gal- 
lons of water used. Do this twice a year, spring and fall, and it will 
cure the troul)le. 

Kinds of pipe. — Iron water pipes are much lietter to use than 
lead. Both oxidize, but the oxide of lead is poisonous, and the 
oxide of iron is not. Water for drinking should never be allowed to 
stand in a lead j)ipe. Tin pipes, or iron lined with tin, are the best 
there are; galvanized iron should never be used, for the reason ex- 
plained elsewhere about galvanized iron ware. 



ROOFS, DOORS, WALLS, ETC. 

ROOFS. 

HINGLES covered with a wash composed of lime, salt and 
fine sand or wood^ashes, and put on like whitewash, will be 
(r)J very much more safe against fire from falling cinders. The 
wash also preserves against the effect of the weather. Old 
shingles are generally more or less warped and cracked. This ap^Dli- 
cation, by washing the upper surface, restores them to their original 
form, thus closing the space between the shingles, while the lime 
and sand fills up the cracks and prevents warping. The older the 
shingles the more they are benefited. A little lamp=black added will 
make the wash the color of the old shingles and prevent the glare 
of a whitewashed roof. 

New shingles which before being laid are dipped in a wash of 
lime, and then dried, will be much more durable, and moss will not 
gather on them. 

When felt is not convenient, a waterproof roofing may be made 
from old newspapers, by applying coats of hot coal tar to them 
with a brush, and uniting several thicknesses together. 

Small leaks in a roof may be stopped with one of the waterproof 
cements given among our cements; or take common white lead paint 
and mix fine sand in it. 

Tin roofs should be kept well j)ainted to preserve them from 
rust. 

A roofing for outbuildings may be made by boiling tar in an 
iron kettle, and stirring in finely powdered charcoal till it is as thick 
as mortar. Then spread it on a boarded covering to the thickness 
of ^ inch, and it will become hard and durable. 



ROOFS, DOORS, WALLS, ETC (395 

DOORS. 

Ill fitting doors which do not shut tightly, but have cracks 
around them admitting the air, may be readily remedied as advised 
for the similar difficulty with windows (which see). The chalk 
should be a^jplied to the door, which will prevent its adhering to 
the putty, and all cracks will be eft'ectually closed. 

Hinges ivhicJi creak may be cured by aj^plying a little oil or 
mutton tallow, or put a little graphite or powdered lead from a soft 
lead pencil on the spot which squeaks. 

Locks icJu'cli do not work well are often merely rusted; apply a 
little oil and they will be all right. Latches and locks should have a 
little graphite or oil applied occasionally, and they will work more 
easily. 

Clean })l(ded handles and Jiinges on doo)-s by rubbing 
with a flannel cloth wet with kerosene and dipped in whiting; 
polish with dry flannel. Clean the woodwork as explained elsewhere 
for painted or varnished surfaces. 

WALLS. 

Brick walls should be hollow. As bricks are great absorbers of 
water, if the wall is solid and the plaster laid directly on it the house 
will be damj) in sjDite of a housekeeper's efl'orts. Never lay the plas- 
ter directly on the brick, but " fur " it, nail on scantling, and then 
lath and plaster on that as in a frame house. 

Damp Walls. — If all houses were built as they should be, 
with hollow walls, there would be little complaint" of damp walls. A 
course of slate cemented into a wall while building, as soon as the 
wall leaves the ground, or just above the foundation, effectually pre- 
vents all dampness from rising. It is a u.sual thing in newly built 
houses for the walls to exude the moisture which has been used in 
making the plaster; this is called "sweating"; wipe the walls dry as 
often as it appears. 

(1) The following simple remedy applied to si one icalls will pre- 
vent all damp from entering, and any vegetable substance from 
growing upon them. Take 1^ lbs. resin, 1 lb. Russian tallow, and 1 
quart linseed oil; melt, mix well together, and apply hot to the sur- 
face of the stone. (2) For hrickicork the " Bnildei'''' gives the fol- 
lowing: Take | lb. of mottled soap to the gallon of w^ter; apply 
it steadily and carefully with a large flat brush so as not to form a 
froth or lather; let it dry 24 hours. Then mix ^ lb. of alum with 
4 gallons of water; let stand 24 hours, and apply it in the same 
manner over the coating of soap. Do this in dry weather. (3) Per- 
haps no application is cheaper or more efficacious than the follow- 
ing. Into a tin or metallic pail, place 1 gallon of benzoline spirit; 
then melt 1^ or 2 lbs. of soft paraffine wax, and when well heated, 
pour it into the spirit, and stir. Apply the solution to the walls 
while warm, with a whitewash brush. To prevent the solution from 
chilling, place the tin in a pail of hot water, but on no account 



696 ROOFS, DOORS, WALLS, ETC. 

briiif^ it near a fire or a serious accident may occur. Whilst this is 
beinjj^ applied the smell is very disagreeable, but that soon goes ofip. 
Hard paraffine wax is not so good to use, as the solution has to be 
kept much hotter. 

WALKS. 

To Kill Weeds. — Gravel walks, pavements or driveways, maybe 
kept clear of weeds or grass by making a strong brine of common 
salt and water; put this in an ordinary spriidvling pot and sprinkle 
it on thoroughly. Do not get any on the grass on the side, or that 
will also be killed. Or a dressing of salt may be scattered along the 
walk or drive instead. It is death to the weeds. 

For (j€u-den irrdks one of the simplest and best things to use is 
common coal ashes'. They become hard and make an excellent walk, 
while grass and weeds will not grow on or through them. An arti- 
ficial asphalt for walks, shed=floors, etc., may be made by levelling 
the place to be covered, and then spreading on a thin coat of tar; 
over this sift some road=sand or coal ashes; let it harden, and repeat 
the operation 4 or 5 times. 

To kill mofts and earth icornis in lan^ns, mix equal quantities of 
earth or leached ashes, and fresh lime (pulverized)and sprinkle it on; 
it will kill them. 

LIGHTNINGRODS. 

When properly constructed, lightningrods have been proved 
beyond question to be sufficient protection against lightning; when 
not projjerly constructed they are worse than useless. The essen- 
tials are: (1) The rod must otfer an unbroken conductor from the 
apex to the ground. The joints are best welded together, or screw 
both ends into 1 nut. (2) The shorter and more direct the course 
of the rod to the earth the better; bends should be rounded, and not 
formed at acute angles. (8) Copper is the best conductor but too 
expensive. Iron is generally used. Galvanizing improves it; or 
cover it with black jDaint, (itself a good conductor) as a protection 
against rust. Wire ^ to | in. in diameter will do. (4) The apex 
should be j)ointed. A coating of platinum or other non^oxidizable 
metal is an improvement. So is a groujD of 3 or 4 points. Any 
blacksmith can weld the extra points to the main wire. (5) The 
circle within which the rod is effective is generally assumed to be 
twice the height of the rod; hence on large buildings there should 
be several rods. (6) All metallic roofs, tanks, etc., should be in 
good conducting connection with the rod. So should iron water 
pipes or steam pipes within the building. (7) Fasten the rod se- 
curely in place with iron eyes or staples. Glass insulators are of 
little value, as when wet, they become conductors. (8) The earth 
connection is very important. Nothing "is better than connection 
with the iron water pipes in a city. In the country, run it into the 
nearest well. Weld on a copper end to withstand the rust, and let 
it go to the bottom. Never let the rod end in dry earth. Where a 




HOUSECLEANINO AND DUSTING 697 

well is not convenient, make a hole 6 in. or more wide, and 9 to 16 
feet long, put the rod in the center, and pack around it with freshly 
heated charcoal. It will preserve the wire and lead the electricity 
into the ground. Any blacksmith can put up such a rod. The above 
are all the essentials. All fancy fixings in addition are useless. 



HOUSECLEANING AND DUSTING. 

OUSECLEANING time is usually one of terror to all the 
members of the family — to the women who do most 
of the work, and the men who are made uncomfortable dur- 
ing the process. If properly managed, however, many of 
the discomforts can be prevented, and the work made much 
easier. The first thing to do is to make ready. Take time for this 
— a week at least. Provide carpet tacks, soap, disinfectants, materi- 
als for making whitewash, etc., so that at the last minute you will 
not run out of the very thing you need most, and so lose both time 
and laatience. 

Arrange for your help also. Unless it is some one who has 
helped you before aud knows your ways it will be better to get a 
woman a few days in advance, so that you can get her broken 
in a little before the tug of war begins. 

Do not start too early in the spring. Wait until you can let the 
fires go out without discomfort, and until there is settled and pleas- 
ant weather. It is much easier to clean house during pleasant 
weather; but no hard and fast rule can be laid down about the exact 
time to commence, as the seasons and circumstances vary, and the 
housewife should adapt herself to the conditions. 

The golden rule in housecleaning is to make it as little burden- 
some as possible, and not to turn the whole house upside down at 
once. Leave some rooms undisturbed while others are being, cleaned, 
so that there will be a place in which to live comfortably, and rest 
in at times, during the whole i^rocess of renovation. Having made 
ready and planned for the work, the best time to begin usually is on 
Monday morning. This comes after the Sunday rest, and one feels 
more like beginning a new campaign at that time. Try to do the 
work, however, on pleasant days, when things can be set out doors 
and well aired, and the windows thrown open freely. 

There is no doubt that the orthodox way for cleaning a house is 
to begin at the top and work down, sending all the dirt and dust to' 
the lower regions as the work goes on; but this is not always conven- 
ient, and it is often best to clean certain rooms during the absence of 
the occupants. We prefer to begin with the cellar. That is too 
often neglected till the last, and then, when all tired out. it is hastily 
and imperfectly done. There is really no room in the house more 
important to the health and well being of the family. Clean out all 
vegetable matter with the utmost care, move boxes, barrels, etc., and 



698 HOUSECLEANING AND DUSTING 

clean under them, and whitewash the walls, having plenty of cop- 
peras in the whitewash used. (See our article on the cellar^ for fur- 
ther hints about its management.) Then go to the attic. Ventilate 
it thoroughly, and remove all pa^jers or other rubbish. Clean every 
j)art thoroughly, sweeping overhead, and then washing the woodwork, 
windows, etc. Go through the miscellaneous collections and throw 
away or give away what you do not need. 

If there are any signs of moths take prompt action. They will 
probal)ly be found in the cracks of the floor. Benzine sprinkled 
along the cracks and crevices is sure death to them. The smell will 
soon evaporate, but on account of its great inflammability it must be 
used with great caution, and never at all near a light or fire. Then, 
having washed the floor (in washing floors in any of the upj)er stories 
be careful not to let water run through the cracks to injure the ceil- 
ings below) and cleaned down the steps, you are ready for the bed- 
rooms. If the closets are cleaned out first they will be very conven- 
ient to store things in while cleaning the rooms. If carbolic acid is 
put in the water used to rinse the floors, walls, etc., it will kill all 
bugs or insects. The smell will soon disappear, and it will leave the 
floor and walls fresh and sweet. In fact, the more general use of 
carbolic acid water would be a great gain to most housekeepers. It 
is an excellent disinfectant. A 5 per cent, solution is strong enough 
for this purpose. WasJi the floors, etc., first, and then rinse them off 
with the carbolic acid water. 

Now clear everything out of the bedroom which can possibly be 
taken out, and have all dust brushed off' the tops of doors, windows, 
ceilings, walls, and every possible lurking place, whether there is to 
be iminting, papering and whitewashing done or not. Then thor- 
oughly brush and examine the mattresses and beds, and move them 
out of the room. No matter how clean the bedstead may look, take 
it to pieces and examine it carefully. In these days, when people 
travel and visit so much, insect pests may be brought into the clean- 
est houses, and constant watchfulness is necessary. If there is the 
least sign of the presence of any unwelcome visitors, use freely some 
exterminator which will finish them. It will not be enough to treat 
the bed and the bedstead alone, if their presence is found, for they 
will also infest the baseboards, floor and walls. After taking up the 
carpets it is a good f)lan to wash the floor with alum, borax or car- 
bolic acid water, and to sprinkle powdered alum, borax or cayenne 
IDepper on the floor before putting down the carpet, as these are 
much disliked by moths and will tend to keep them away. Lay 
down the carpet, turn back the edges, and sprinkle whichever you 
use along or under the edge of the carpet; then tarn it back and tack 
it down. 

The same plan can be pursued in other rooms. The best meth- 
ods of cleaning carpets, furniture, pictures, etc., are so fully treated 
elsewhere that we need not further discuss them here. Having 
cleaned the bedrooms, the halls can be cleaned next, and then the 
IDarlors, sitting and dining rooms, halls and kitchen. The best meth- 
ods of cleaning all the different articles found in the home are fully 



HOUSECLEANING AND DUSTING ()99 

explained in their ai:)propriate places in these pao-es, and the house- 
wife can easily refer to those articles for more detailed information. 

Having cleaned the house, the yards and sheds should receive 
attention. Gather up and burn all refuse that will burn, and remove 
or bury what will not; and leave no foul corners untouched. Plow 
wp or disinfect all spots where refuse heaps have stood. Sprinkle 
chloride of lime in all damp places, and dry them out if possible. 
The o-erms of many diseases may thus be killed, and much sickness 
avoided. 

Finally, do not make yourself sick by overwork. Take some 
time for rest as you go along; plan your work carefully, and then 
when all is done you will not be completely exhausted and worn out. 
Your own health and comfort during the process should be consid- 
ered, and the work made as easy as possible. 

DUSTING — Where does all the dust come from? is a question 
frecpiently asked. In all our cities and towns the quantity of dust 
seems to be unlimited — it seems to be an ever increasing product of 
our civilization. But much of the dust is never really gotten rid of. 
Miss Florence Nightingale has very sensibly remarked that " no par- 
ticle of dust is ever, or can ever be, removed or really got rid of by 
the present way of dusting (with feather dusters). Dusting, in these 
days, means nothing but Happing the dust fnmi one part of a room 
to another, with doors and windows closed. What yoii do it for, I 
cannot think. You had much better leave the dust alone, if yoii 
are not going to take it away altogether; for from the time the room 
begins to be a room, up to the time when it ceases to be one, no one 
atom of dust can ever actually leave it thus. To dust, as it is now 
practiced, really means to distribute the dust more evenly over the 
room." 

A layer of dust is always unwholesome, and when penetrated by 
dampness it ferments, decays and becomes positively poisonous; 
especially is this true in damp weather, and in those rooms not dried 
out by a good fire. Certainly, for both health and comfort, the rooms 
can not be kept too free from any deposit of dust. But this cannot 
be done effectually with the feather duster. Bid farewell to the dear 
old relic, and su^^plant it with the damp cloth. 

Cheese cloth makes the best duster. There is a wide meshed 
kind suitable for the jjurpose which is as soft as silk, and is cheap. 
It should be so slightly moistened as to hold no suggestion of wet, 
and it will gather up and hold the dirt, not throw it out to float in 
the air and light elsewhere. Go all around the room with this, omit- 
ting nothing. Wipe over the backs of chairs and table legs, clean out 
openworked carving, and wijoe in all out=of the-way places. A small 
paint brush may be used to clean out cracks, crevices, etc., and those 
only. Lift small articles oflp the table and dust under them, instead 
of wiping around tliemi. Dust the walls and ceilings with canton 
flannel, nap outside, and tied over a broom, or better, around the mop 
of a long handled window brush. 



700 THE BEDROOM AND BEDS 

If the rooms of the house are swejjt as we have elsewhere ex- 
plained, and dusted in this manner, ninetenths of the ever trouble- 
some dust will be ^ot rid of (exterminated, not scattered) and the 
rooms will have a delightfully fresh, clean and wholesome ajjpearance. 
It may seem like a little more trouble at first, but when the rooms 
are once cleared from dust there will be no desire to return to the old 
methods. 



THE BEDROOM AND BEDS. 

THE BEDROOM. 

fF a house is well built, suitably located, and free from dampness, 
a bedroom may be on the ground floor, although as a rule one 
of the upper floors is better. It has been well said that "a 
bedroom should be deaf to noise, and blind to light." It is 
not always possible to attain this, but it is the object to aim at. 
The glare of a sunny room may be modified by linen curtains, and a 
baize covering to the door will deaden sound. The room should be 
well ventilated, and yet free from draughts. The windows should 
open from the top, and there should be a fireplace in the room, if 
possible. A painted and varnished wall is doubtless the best. It is 
non absorbent, and is easily cleaned. If jjapered, let the design be 
free from any pronounced figures or striking patterns, which, in the 
half lights of the night or early morning, will suggest to the tired 
brain weird figures or mathematical prol)lems. A bedroom should 
be light, rather than dark, and the furniture and general woodwork, 
such as the doors, wainscoatings, etc., should be of light colors. The 
latter should be varnished so that it can be easily washed and 
cleaned. 

On the ground of health, wood carpeting, or a waxed, or stained 
and varnished wood floor, is doubtless the best. Such a fioor is non= 
absorbent, and can be wiped clean every day Rugs can be placed 
around, on which to step to relieve one from the unpleasant sensa- 
tion of stei)ping on a cold floor, and are easily taken out and cleaned. 
Mattings make very desirable floor coverings for bedrooms. They 
are free from dust, can be easily cleaned, and will wear for several 
years. They should be taken up, the floor scrubbed, and the matting 
cleaned at least twice a year. In carpets, light colors and small fig- 
ures make the most desirable patterns for bedrooms. One advant- 
age to a wholly carpeted floor is that the carpet tends to keep out 
draughts, and make the room generally warmer. 

THE BED. 

The bedstead should be long enough for a tall person to stretch 
out in comfortably (say 6| feet long) for a short bed is extremely un- 
comfortable It should be easily taken apart, and the springs .so ar- 
ranged that they can be taken out easily and brushed. The bed- 
stead should not face the window, nor should it be exposed to 
draughts from the chimney. 



THE BEDROOM AND BEDS 701 

The feather bed is both enervating and luxurious. It may do 
for the old and infirm, but is not suited to the young and vigorous. 
A good hair mattress laid on elastic sjDrings is the best bed. A light 
mattress of this kind on the woven wire springs, is well exposed to 
the air, and, hence, the most healthy. Wool mattresses are less ex- 
pensive than those made of hair, and also not as good. The same 
can be said of Spanish moss. Oat straw and corn busks make good 
under beds, and they are cheap and easily renewed. It is an excel- 
lent idea to have mattresses entirely covered with slips of unbleached 
calico which can be taken oif and washed. Such a cover preserves 
the tick, and it looks fresh and clean. Soft woolen blankets are the 
best covering for a bed. 

In comforters, those made of delaines are best, with wool quilted 
in. Cotton comforters should be exposed to the sun and air fre- 
quently; they are not so good as those of wool. All bedding, how- 
ever, should be regularly and frequently aired. Each per.son in the 
house should open the window and turn down the bedding before 
leaving his or her room in the morning. This will give the bed a 
chance to air before it is made up — a point of much more importance 
than many people imagine. 

Every bed ought to be well aired every day. Few people realize 
the amount of effete and poisonous matter thrown off through the 
pores of the skin by insensible perspiration. It varies, more being 
thrown off during violent exercise than when at rest, but from 1| to 
4 or 5 ll)s. a day are thus thrown out. This, at night, is confined by 
and partially absorbed in the bed clothes, and the importance of 
daily opening out and thoroughly airing the bed clothes so that they 
may be cleared from this poisonous matter should be evident. 

Some mothers teach children to fold up and put away their 
night garments before leaving the bedroom. A much better plan 
would be to instruct them to spread out those garments so that they 
would be thoroughly aired. Every 2 or 3 days the bedding should be 
taken apart and well aired. Pillows also should be shaken up and 
exposed to the wind. 

To deteci ddmpitess in a bed, warm it, and then place a hand= 
mirror under the coverings. If a mist is observable on the mirror, 
antl the vapor is condensed into drops, it is a sure sign of the pres- 
ence of damp. 

No one should ever sleep in a damp bed — it is far better to sit 
up all night. As sleeping in a damp bed so seriously endangers the 
health, so simple an expedient as the foregoing for detecting damp- 
ness is important to know. 

Spare beds, before being occupied by a guest, or any one else, 
should be thoroughly aired and dried. Beds left "unused for some 
time, often gather dampness which will be dangerous to the health; 
therefore of)en up the bed, air it and dry it, before allowing it to be 
occupied. In drying it a jug of hot water or warming pan will be 
useful, or, better yet, lift it off and place before a good fire, turning it 
several times. Change the sheets also. 



702 VENTILATION 

When hedstcnds creak at each movement of the occupant, they 
can usually be completely silenced by taking out the slats and wrap- 
ping the ends in soft paper. 

Insects. — Eternal vigilance is the price of freedom from those 
insects so troublesome to housekeepers. Every spring the bedstead 
should be taken to i^ieces and carefully examined to see that no bugs 
are present. The best methods of exterminating them are explained 
under " Insect Pests." 

Hints. — A well ventilated bedroom at night will cure the diffi- 
culty which some peojjle have in w^aking up in the morning, when 
they struggle, yawn, relapse, and find it so hard to wake up. The 
value of thorough ventilation at night in a bedroom can hardly be 
over-estimated, and the loss without it is always very great. 

A pail of cold fresh water left uncovered in a bedroom at night 
will absorb all poisonous gases. See what we say about the absorb- 
ing power of water elsewhere under " Water." 

Emptying SIoj^is. — Slop pails which are neglected, soon become 
foul. An excellent rule, adopted by some, is to scrub them out every 
wash day with the soapy water left from washing. They should be 
kept scrupulously clean, and occasionally washed with chloride of lime 
or other disinfectant. The lids, as well as the pails, should receive 
attention, and when not in use should be hung above the pail, and 
not placed on it, thus allowing the pail to ventilate, The one who 
empties the slops should have a jug of hot water in which a little 
soda has been dissolved, and 2 dry cloths —1 for the basins and 1 for 
the chambers. The chambers should be scalded and dried every day. 
The cloth used for the purpose should be invariably rinsed well after 
use, and hung in the air to dry. The slop pails should be scalded 
after use, wiped dry, and kept where they can be well aired. 



VENTILATION. 

NLY within the last few years has the paramount importance 
of pure air been understood. The effect of impure air on an- 
imals is at once apparent. For years the more delicate an- 
imals in the British Zoological gardens died quickly, it was 
supposed because of the cold climate. Their cells were then 
carefully warmed, and to every one's surprise the mortality was even 
greater than before. At last the cells were well ventilated, and the 
excessive mortality either ceased, or greatly diminished. 

There are 2 ol)jects in ventilation: (1) to get rid of. the carbonic 
acid gas exhaled from the lungs, which is poisonous; and, (2) to 
furnish them an abundance of life supporting oxygen. To be kept 
in full health and vigor each adult individual requires 3,000 cubic 
feet of fresh air every hour. A simple test for the presence of car- 
bonic acid gas is given below, in discussing the purity of air. The 
thing to be aimed at is to change the air steadily without creating a 
draft, for drafts will give rise to colds, rheumatism, etc., but far more 
complaints are caused by insufficient than liy over ventilation. 



VENTILATION 703 

The attempt to make our houses as nearly air tight as possible in 
winter, by the use of double windows and other devices, is a suicidal 
policy unless ample provision is made for ventilation in other ways. 
It makes the inmates delicate and susceptible to the slightest change. 
They would be far healthier living as our ancestors did in an old log 
hut. The quality of the air we breathe is quite as important as that 
of the food we eat. 

A great deal more attention ought to be given to this matter of 
ventilation than has been done in the past. In building new houses 
it should be carefully planned for; for the ventilation of old houses 
we can only otfer a few hints. A tire in an open fireplace is a fairly 
good ventilator, and in dwelling rooms, and especially in bedrooms, 
the fireplace should always be left unclosed, and the flue or damper 
open for ventilation. A ready way to ventilate a room is to fasten a 
neat strip of wood an inch or two wide to the window sill, and ex- 
tending clear across the window. Fasten a piece of " weatlier=strip" 
on top of this strip, so that it will form an air tight joint with the 
lower sash. In this way the lower sash can be raised 1 or 2 inches 
without letting in any air at the bottom of the window, but an open- 
ing will be formed at the top between the 2 window sashes through 
which a current of fresh air will flow. If a piece of wood or tin be 
attached to the top of the upper sash, sloping upwards, the current 
will be directed toward the ceiling, whence it will diffuse itself 
through the room. To ventilate a room do not rely on getting the air 
from halls or other rooms, but introduce it directly from the outside. 

A ready way to ventilate rooms which are much occupied, is to 
open the windows during the meal time, and before they are needed 
again they can be rewarmed. The improvement in the air will be 
very noticeable. 

Have the bedroom well ventilated always, and if no other provi- 
sion is made leave the window down 2 or 8 inches at the top. Place 
the bed where the draft will not strike it, and if there is more than 
one window, oi)en the one the farthest from the bed. If necessary, 
the curtains may be drawn to prevent the draft from striking the bed. 
More air will be needed when several people occujjy the same apart- 
ment than when there is only one. If in the morning the room 
smells close to any one who steps into it from the fresh outside air, 
it is a good practical test that the ventilation is insufficient; but if no 
smell is perceptible the ventilation is good. On completing the 
morning ablutions throw the window wide open and leave it so, to 
thoroughly ventilate the room. 

Importance of SunJiijhi. — Another important matter is to admit 
the sunlight, y/oof/s of ii, into all the rooms of the house if possible. 
Even if it fades the carpets, a little of that is better than to shut it 
out and have the cheeks of the children fade. An abundance of 
fresh air and sunlight will save many a doctor's bill, and what is 
vastly more important, they will preserve the health of the family. 

Cooling fJw Air. — In hot weather wetting a cloth and hanging it 
in the window over the blind will cool and freshen the air greatly — 



704 DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS 

almost as much as a shower. A large sponge hung- in a room and 
kept continually wet will also cool the air, either in the clay or night. 

Impurities in the Air. — The principal contaminations of air are 
the presence of poisonous gases due to sewers, etc., and the presence 
of carbonic acid gas in excess. Wholesome air does not contain 
al)ove 5 volumes of carbonic acid in 10,000; as the proportion 
increases the quality of the air deteriorates, until it becomes positive- 
ly poisonous. Tests. — The simplest method of testing the amount of 
carl)onic acid present in the air is by using limewater. This can be 
obtained of any druggist, but should be freshly made. When this 
lime water is shaken up in a bottle of air containing carbonic acid, 
the acid combines with the lime, forming an insoluble powder of 
carbonate of lime, and when this is in sufficient quantity it makes 
the water turbid or milky, so that it can be recognized by the eye. 
The test is made by having a series of bottles of various sizes, filling 
them with the air to be tested, placing a large teasiwon of the lime= 
water in each one, corking tightly, and then shaking them vigorously 
for 8 or 4 minutes, so that all the air in the bottle shall be brought in 
contact with the lime water, and all the carbonic acid taken up by 
the lime. In bottles of large size the fluid will become dense, while 
in those of small size it will remain clear. If a 10 oz. bottle thus 
shaken becomes turbid it indicates the presence of more than 6 vol- 
umes of carbonic acid per 10,000 of air; while turbidity in an 8 oz. 
bottle indicates more than 8 volumes; in a 6 oz. bottle more than 11 
volumes; and in a 4 oz. bottle more than 15 volumes. Anything over 
5 volumes should be corrected. There is no test pajjer which can be 
made practically useful to indicate the quantity of carbonic acid in 
the air. 

Pure air is so very essential to health that impure air should 
never be breathed when possible to avoid it. 

Sewer (jds is usually manifested by its peculiar cabbage like 
odor. The following is, however, a ready test for it: Saturate un- 
glazed or blotting paper with a solution made of 1 oz. pure acetate of 
lead, in | pint of rain water; let it partially dry and then exj)ose it in 
the room suspected of containing sewer gas. The test paper will be 
blackened if any considerable quantity is present. Never neglect 
escaping sewer gas; if present, find the leak and stop it at once. For 
a test for leaking sewer pipes see " Sinks and Drains." 



DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS. 

\ I /HE importance and value of disinfection is becoming more 

\ I J apparent every year, and all housekeepers should know 

q) I (g) something about the various articles emi^loyed for this pur- 

^ pose, their value, and the uses to which they are adapted. 

We mention below the more important ones and explain 

their different merits. It should be remembered, however, that 



DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS 705 

nothing will take the i^lace of those best of all disinfectants, sunlight, 
fresh air, soap and water, and perfect cleanliness. Popularly the 
word disinfectant is used in a very loose way. Any articles which 
destroy bad odors, or wdiich arrest decomposition or j)utrefaction are 
generally called disinfectants, and are often ignorantly used to des- 
troy the disease germs of smalhpox, cholera, etc. It should be 
understood that many valuable deodorizers and antiseijtics are utter- 
ly valueless for destroying disease germs. Strictly speaking, disin- 
fectants are agents which destroy the germs of communicable diseas- 
es, such as cholera, small pox, etc. Antiseptics are drugs which des- 
troy low forms of life, like the bacteria which cause decomposition. 
Deodorizers or deodorants are agents which destroy disagreeable 
smells merely. 

Among the best of the true disinfectants are fire; boiling water; 
steam (it should have at least 25 lbs. pressure); a solution of chloride 
of lime; bichloride of mecury (corrosive sublimate); a solution of 
chlorinated soda (Labarraque's solution). Others which are useful 
where spores are absent are dry heat (as high as 240'' F.); chloride 
of zinc; sulphate of copper; carbolic acid. Kemember in using any 
disinfectant that the time of exposure to its action is important, so 
allow it time to work. 

HEAT AND STEAM— Heat is a powerful disinfectant. Fire, 
of course, destroys all germs, and articles of small value are often 
best burned when soiled with infectious material. Steam unconfined 
is the same as boiling water- (212°), but under j)ressure it is much 
higher, being 240° F. at 25 lbs. pressure, and 250° at 80 lbs. pres- 
sure. Exposure for 30 minutes to steam at 25 lbs. pressure will des- 
troy all known germs. Dry heat penetrates slowly into bulky 
articles such as bedding, matresses, etc. If spores are present, heat 
enough to injure woolen fabrics is needed to kill them; if they are 
absent, a 2 hours exposure to a dry heat of 230° F. is effectual. A 
suitable oven is needed. Steam is suitable for articles like blankets, 
carpets, clothing, etc., which will not bear boiling, but it is not 
suited for articles like leather, etc., which are injured by moisture. 

Boiling in water for | hour will destroy the vitality of all 
known disease germs. It is therefore the best means for disinfecting 
all articles which can be thus treated, such as bed-clothes, towels, the 
body clothing of the sick, etc. If there are no facilities for ^treating 
articles with boiling water in the sickroom, they may with safety be 
removed to another part of the house for this treatment if they are 
first carefully enveloped in a towel or sheet, as the case may require^ 
which has been thoroughly soaked with carbolic acid solution. Thus 
enveloped, they should be put in the water, and boiled for ^ hour. 

CARBOLIC ACID. — This is one of the best known disinfectants. 
It is made from coahtar. It is really a solid, but the least addition 
of water lit|uifies it. The genuine acid is easily recognized by its 
powerful and characteristic odor. For disinfecting cellars, sewers, 
sinks, water=closets, etc., use 1 oz. of the acid to a gallon of water. 
For steeping clothes and general disinfecting purposed it is excellent, 
*5 



706 DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS 

For such articles 1 part in 20 of water will answer. Dr. Koch gives 
it the first i)lace for disinfecting clothing, excreta, etc., in cholera. 
A 1% or 2% solution is effective for many germs. Carbolic acid 
soap is well adapted for disinfecting the hands. The only objections 
to carbolic acid are that its odor is not very pleasant, and that it is a 
deadly poison. It is also somewhat more expensive than some of the 
other disinfectants. Carbolic acid when combined with water and 
boiled, evaporates with the steam in a constant ratio, the steam con- 
taining the same relative quantity of the acid as the water from 
which it evaporates. Very few disinfectants do this. 

CHARCOAL. — This is useful within limits. It absorbs impure 
gases, and also oxygen which decomposes them. It is not volatile 
and cannot go to the smells — they must come to it — and it cannot 
penetrate every nook and corner as a good disinfectant should do. 
It can only absorb a limited amount of gas, and after a time it must 
be removed and fresh supplied; or it may be purified by heating in 
an oven. It preserves meat and poultry, makes a good tooth=powder, 
is given for indigestion, and is also used as a poultice for foul ulcers. 
It is a useful article to keep in the house. 

CHLORIDE OF LIME (also called BleacJuiig Powder) — This 
is one of the cheapest and best disinfectants. For urinals, drains, 
closets, etc., there is nothing better. The right strength for Use in 
sinks, closets, etc., is 1 lb. to a gallon of water. For steeiDing linen, 1 
oz. to the gallon is strong enough, and even in this weak solution the 
linen must not be left long. It decomposes on coming in contact 
with organic matter, and as a disinfectant it acts by giving off chlor- 
ine gas, which destroys all known germs. The smell is not pleasant, 
although many people do not dislike it. The powder is also scat- 
tered about freely where required in yards, etc., but as the odor will 
ruin the flavor of foods it must be used cautiously about the house, 
especially in the cellar, larder, etc., where food is stored. A mixture 
of 1 part chloride of lime with 8 parts dry sand answers well for cess- 
pools,, etc. To make an efPective disinfectant it should be of the best 
quality. When purchasing, accept only that which is enclosed in 
glass bottles, as, when packed in paper or wooden boxes it is liable to 
have so deteriorated as to be worthless for disinfecting purposes. 
Dissolved in water (8 oz. to 1 gal.) it may be used in disinfecting 
discharges in contagious diseases, esj)ecially in typhoid fever and 
cholera; 1 quart should be mixed with each discharge (it will be best 
to put it in the vessel before it receives the discharges); after 80 
minutes, disinfection is completed, and the contents may be thrown 
into the water closet; the expectorations of those sick with consump- 
tion may be discharged into a cup half filled with this, or with a 
carbolic acid solution. 

A home-made chloride of lime may be prepared by dissolving a 
bushel of salt in a barrel of water; then slack a barrel of lime with 
this salt water — it should be thick enough to iorm a kind of paste. 
This will answer for disinfecting purposes about as well as that 
bought at the stores, and may he used freely about cellars, sinks, 
outhouses, etc. 



DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZEKS 707 

CHLORIDE OF ZINC— This is the basis of BurneUe's Disin- 
fecting Fluid. It is poisonous, but is a well known disinfectant and 
deodorizer. It is not expensive. The strength for general use is 
about a wineglassful to 2^^- quarts of M^ater. It is useful for chamber 
utensils, water closets, etc. Its power for destroying disease germs 
has been much overestimated, although it has been extensively used 
in Europe and America, It is a valuable antiseptic and deodorizer. 

CONDY'S FLUID — This is an old disinfectant which has been 
on the market for years. There are 2 kinds, the crimson and the 
green. The crimson is best. It needs to be used in large quantities 
and is somewhat expensive. It stains linen, but the stains may be 
removed by steeping the articles, before they get dry, in water con- 
taining 1 oz. of sorrel to the pint. It is made from pcrnunu/coiafc of 
2)of(:issiii))i. By dissolving 1 oz. of permanganate of potassium in 1 
quart of water, a stronger disinfectant is obtained at a less i)rice. It 
is a powerful oxidizing agent, and is used in fevers, etc. 

CORROSIVE SUBLIMATE (called also Perchhyide or Mercunj 
and Mcvcuric Chloride). — This is a most valuable disinfectant, the 
greatest objection to its use being that it is extremely poisonous. It 
decomposes on contact with tin, copjjer, or lead. It is colorless and 
odorless, and if kept on hand it should be plainly labeled, and it will 
be a good i:)lan to color it by adding indigo or analine blue. It co- 
agulates albuminous materials, which somewhat interferes with its 
value as a disinfectant. 

The concenti'ated solution has 4 oz. mercury to 1 gallon of water. 
It has much j)otency at 1 part sublimate to 500 parts water, or even 
at 4000 parts water. An excellent solution for general use is \ lb. 
corrosive sublimate and 1 lb. sulphate of coj)per to one gallon of 
water. This we will call " Solution 1." For excremental discharges 
put 1 lb. (/. c, 2 cups) of "Solution 1" in a gallon of water, and use 
1 quart of this for each discharge, putting it in the vessel before the 
discharge takes jjlace, and letting it stand 2 hours before emptying. 
Privy vaults which contain so much material, believed to be infected 
with the germs of typhoid fever or cholera, that the disinfection by 
chloride ef lime would be inqDracticable, may be disinfected by using 
1 oz. of sublimate to 1 gallon of water, which will disinfect 4 gallons 
of infected excremental matter. 

The time of contact is important, so let it act for 2 or 3 hours. 
It is an antiseptic at 1 part sublimate to 15,000 parts water. Cor- 
rosive sublimate if allowed to come in contact with lead pipes will 
make them brittle and worthless. It should be kept in glass or 
glazed vessels. 

SANITAS — This is a disinfectant made by the action of supers 
heated steam on turpentine. It is largely used on board ship and is 
popular on account of its pleasant odor. It is not very powerful, and 
must be used in large quantities. 



708 DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZEES 

SOLUTION OF CHLORINATED SODA.— This to be efPective 
should contain at least 8 per cent, of available chlorine. When ex- 
posed to the air it evolves chlorine, to which circumstance its special 
value is due. It is sometimes spoken of as Labarrdqne's soliiiioii. 
If one part of the solution of chlorinated soda is added to 5 i)arts 
water it makes a standard solution, and may be used for the same 
purposes as chloride of lime; its odor is somewhat pleasanter al- 
though it is more expensive. It may be used to cleanse portions of 
the body soiled with discharges of those sick with contagious dis- 
eases, or the hands of attendants similarly soiled. It does not keep* 
well, so it should be fresh when used. 

SULPHATE OF COPPER (also called Blue Viin'ol).— This is 
not so good a disinfectant as bichloride of mercury, but it is a better 
deodorant. A 10 per cent, solution is valuable for destroying micro- 
organisms where s})ores are absent. 

SULPHATE OF IRON {or Green Co jrper a s). — The right 
strength for ordinary purposes is 1 lb. to a gallon of water. A mix- 
ture of sulphate of iron and sulphate of zinc is sold under the name 
of Larnande's Mixture. Strictly speaking, sulphate of iron is not a 
disinfectant as it will not destroy the vitality of disease germs, but it 
is a valuable antiseptic and arrests putrefactive decomposition. It is 
cheap and is valuable for sinks, drains, closets, etc. Copperas is not 
an effective remedy against the spread of contagious diseases, like 
true disinfectants, its most valuable applications being those already 
indicated. ■ 

SULPHATE OF ZINC— This is commonly called tchUe viiriol, 
and is obtained by dissolving zinc in dilute sulphuric acid. For 
purposes of disinfection dissolve 1| lbs, of the sulphate of zinc and | 
lb. of common salt in 6 gallons of water. Useful for water=closets, etc. 

SULPHUROUS ACID GAS (also called Sulphur Dioxide).— 
This is a useful disinfectant and is always available. It is made by 
burning sulphur. Its disinfecting power is much increased by the 
presence of moisture. A room or a house may be filled with the gas 
so that every article is subject to its influence. It escapes more 
readily than is generally supposed, through every crack and crevice, 
and infectious material inclosed in bundles, or protected by the folds 
of blankets, etc., may escape disinfection unless care is taken. It 
quickly rusts brass and iron work and tarnishes picture frames, sil- 
verware, etc., but this can be guarded against by removing them from 
the room. It is valuable for disinfecting after smallpox, scarlet fever, 
yellow fever, diphtheria, etc. 

THYMOL This is a comparatively new antiseptic obtained 

from the juice of several aromatic plants, and its odor is pleasant. 
It is sold in crystals which are freely soluble in water, or the spirits 
of thymol may be bought. It is very active, may be used for the 
same disinfectant purposes as carbolic acid, and is quite as effective, 
and its pleasant odor commends it. Use about 1 teaspoon of the 
spirits of thymol to 2 quarts of water. 



DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS 709 

A SATURATED SOLUTION OF CHLORIDE OF LEAD.— This 

makes an excellent antiseptic and deodorant, and may easily be pre- 
pared as follows: Dissolve ^ drachm of nitrate of lead in 1 pint of 
boiling- water; also dissolve 2 drachms of common salt in a pail of 
cold water; when dissolved, mix the 2 together; when settled, a j)ail 
of clear fluid will remain. It is without smell, and may be used to 
disinfect water closets, heaps of refuse, drains, sinks, decaying and 
offensive objects, etc.; the fetid atmosphere in a room may be sweet- 
ened at once by hanging up cloths saturated with the solution. If 
used hot the mixture is more active. It is quite cheap, as a number 
of barrels of the solution may be i^repared from a single pound of 
the nitrate. 

Prirics, Yfirds, Etc. — Eckstein, after extensive experiments, 
found that the most effective disinfectant for urinals, privies, etc., 
was clfloride of lime (bleaching powder). Its odor is unpleasant to 
many, and for common use (when contagious diseases are not pres- 
ent) copjaeras or carbolic acid answer well.- Cellars, yards, stables, 
gutters, privies, cesspools, water closets, drains, sewers, etc., should 
be frequently and liberally treated with a chloride of lime or copx^eras 
(sulphate of iron) solution. Another good solution for this purpose 
is the chloride of lead previously mentioned. After contagious dis- 
eases like typhoid fever, cholera, etc., use chloride of lime or bichlo- 
ride of mercury, as at such times the most powerful disinfectants 
should be used. 

The best iraij to disinfect a room after any contagious disease, is 
to burn sulphur. Mix equal quantities of sulphur and charcoal, and 
paste strips of paper over all keyholes and cracks about the doors, 
windows, etc. Put a dish pan on the floor, a plate in the pan. and 
on this set a kettle containing the sulphur mixture. Use about () 
lbs. for a room 12x15 feet, and 10 feet high, and in that ratio for 
other sized rooms. If too little sulphur is used it will do no good. 
Then fill the i^an half full of water, pour about 3 oz. of alcohol over 
the sulphur, set fare to it, and get out of the room at once, closing the 
door tightly. Leave it closed 24 hours; the burning sulphur gene- 
rates sulphurous acid gas, which is a powerful disinfectant. Then 
open the room and air it 24 hours, and the windows should be left 
open as much as possible for a week or two. It will be best to re- 
paint the woodwork and repaper or calcimine the walls. Wash the 
woodwork of furniture, etc., with a 2 per cent, solution of x-hloride 
of lime or a 5 per cent, solution of carbolic acid. 

If the carpet was left on the floor during the illness it should re- 
main until after the fumigation; then take it up, beat it, and leave it 
out of doors for a week or two. Those who wish to be on the safe 
side can repeat the fumigation a second time. 

For disi}ifectiug clotliing, bedding, etc.. during an attack of a 
contagious disease, or after recovery, the following suggestions are 
offered: Articles of little value should be destroyed by fire. All 
clothing, bedding, etc., which can be boiled in water should be so 
treated for 1 hour. Other articles may be immersed in a solution of 
2 ounces( = l wineglass) of corrosive sublimate "Solution 1" (see 



710 DISINFECTANTS AND DEODORIZERS 

corrosive sublimate) in 1 gallon of water, which does not injure cloth. 
Garments of wool, silk, etc., which w^ould be injured by immersion in 
boiling water or a disinfecting solution, may be exposed to dry heat 
at a temperature of 280° F. for 2 hours, or exposed to the fumes of 
steam under pressure as previously explained. The ticking of beds 
and pillows should be dii3j)ed in the bichloride of mercury solution 
and then thoroughly boiled. All straw, husk, or excelsior filling 
should be burned. A filling of hair or feathers should be thoroughly 
baked in an oven or destroyed by fire. Articles exposed to dry heat 
or steam should be spread out so that all parts can be readily penetra- 
ted. Articles of wood, leather, porcelain or metal may be washed 
several times in a 5% solution of carbolic acid, or a 2% solution of 
chloride of lime, 

The hands and general surface of the body of the attendants and 
of convalescents may be washed with Labarraque solution, or with a 
2% solution of carbolic acid. The excreta or discharges from the ]3a- 
tient should be treated with 1 quart of a 5% solution of chloride of 
lime or a ,5% solution of carbolic acid, or use corrosive sublimate, 
" Solution 1" in the cases and as explained in our previous section on 
that disinfectant. Articles which are to be disinfected by fire or 
boiling outside of the room should be wrapped in a sheet soaked with 
a solution of carbolic acid and thus conveyed to the place of disin- 
fection. During an illness, or on recovery, the body of a patient 
may be sponged ( with the physician's approval ) with a solution of 1 
part chlorinated soda in 20 parts water, which will aid in preventing 
the escape from the body of infectious material. It will be a good 
idea to daily wipe off all surfaces (furniture, walls and floor) with a 
cloth moistenecl with a 2% solution of chloride of lime or a 5% 
solution of carbolic acid. 

DEODORIZERS. 

These should not be confounded with disinfectants, but in the 
minds of many people the difference is not clearly understood. De- 
odorizers merely mask odors by using perfumes, etc., but they do not 
destroy the jjoisonous effluvia and disease germs. Unpleasant odors 
may be masked by burning sugar, resin or vinegar. Every house- 
wife has seen rags and paper burned for this purpose. Carbolic acid 
sprinkled about, or exposed in saucers or open vessels, acts as both 
deodorizer and disinfectant, and so does the saturated solution of 
chloride of lead. "Florida Water" is refreshing in a sickroom, but it 
has no very active disinfecting properties. Pinol, sprayed through 
an atomizer, is a fair aerial disinfectant, having an agreeable odor. 

The funics of ncwhj roasted coffee is one of the best things with 
which to mask unpleasant odors. Even musk, asafoetida and castor- 
eum, may be overcome with it. Place a few ounces of whole cofPee 
in an iron pan over the fire, or on a shovel of coals, and while the 
fumes are rising carry it around the room; it is efPectual. 

A fjood deodorizer for ci sicl'room is vinegar boiled with myrrh; 
sprinkle it on the floor and furniture. Another is to place in a saucer 



FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 711 

a little coffee freshly ground; put a piece of camphor gum in the cen- 
ter and set fire to it, letting both coffee and camphor burn together. 
This is both cheaper and better than pastiles. 



FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS. 

WOOD FLOORS. 

jAINTS like yellow ochre, sienna, Venetian or Indian red, 
which contain mineral colors alone, without any white lead, 
are the best to use on floors, and the common practice of paint- 
ing kitchen floors with yellow ochre, raw umber or sienna is 
a very wise one. Although they have little body, as compared 
with white lead jjaints, and several coats are needed, such paints make 
an excellent and durable covering. Any color containing white lead 
is injurious to wood floors, making them softer and more quickly 
worn away. Any varnish made by drying lead salts, when applied 
to a wood floor is nearly as injurious as lead paint. 

Cleaning White Board Floors. — To keep boards white it is 
necessary to wash them properly. Very often boards which are un- 
pleasantly dark have had a good deal of work bestowed on them, but 
it has not been applied right. The method adopted is quite as im- 
portant as the material used for scrubbing boards. It is not only 
necessary to scrub the dirt out of the wood, but it is quite as impor- 
tant to remove the dirt thus loosened; and for this, plenty of clean 
water is required. To loosen the dirt and then rub it in again by 
wiping with a nearly dry cloth, is a great waste of effort. Flannel is 
best to use because it takes up the dirt, which cotton does not. Re- 
member, then, that to rinse thoroughly, and 2 or 8 times if necessary, 
is, if anything, even more important than to scrub well. The great 
secret of floor washing is to do a little at a time, change the water 
often, and use plenty of it; then dry the floor with a flannel cloth. 
Sweep the floor, of course, before washing it. 

Removing Sfains. — The following, if applied as directed, will 
take out stains: Take some clean, sifted, white or silver sand, and 
scatter it on the floor. Dissolve 1 lb. of potash in 1 pint of water, 
and sprinkle the sand with the solution. Have a pail of very hot 
water, and well scrub the boards lengthwise with a hard brush, and 
use the best mottled soap. Change the water frequently. 

The frequent use of soap on irood foors, or any articles of wood, 
darkens them and spoils their color. A mixture of one part newly 
slacked lime, and 3 parts common white sand, is cheaper and much 
better than soaj). It will remove grease, whiten the boards, and de- 
stroy all insects. Rinse well with clean water afterwards. In wash- 
ing boards never rub crossways, but always up and down with the 
grain. 

Scuid will roughen boards on which it is used unless it is very 
fine. For this reason yi«e wood ashes sifted through a cheese-cloth 



712 FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 

bag is better. Soda keeps wood whiter than soap, and is therefore 
better to use as a rule, 

Floois ivliich are in had condition may be washed with the fol- 
lowing: Put into a sauce^pan 1 lb. soft soap, 1 lb. of fuller's earth, 1 
lb. of soda, and 2 quarts of water. Boil all down together to ^ the 
quantity. Scrub well with it, and rinse thoroughly after scrubbing. 

To Clean and Restore Wood Floors. — The following will be 
found useful in cleaning and restoring color to wooden floors: Allow 
1 part calcinated soda to stand | hour in 1 part slacked lime; then 
add 15 parts water, and boil. Spread the solution thus obtained up- 
on the floor with a rag, and after drying, rub with a hard brush 
and fine sand and water. A solution of 1 part concentrated sulphuric 
acid and 8 parts water will enliven the wood after the first applica- 
tion. When dry, wash the floor, and wax it if desired. 

For Scruhbi)ig White Floors, one of the best sands (possibly 
the best) is to heat marble drippings red hot in the fire; then let 
them cool and pound them very fine. 

Unpainied dining room floors, etc., can be freshened and clean- 
ed nicely by rubbing with fine dry sand, or with sawdust, which is 
better, as described further on for using sawdust. 

A smooth hard-wood dining-room floor may be kept in condi- 
tion by rubbing or dusting it every day with a woolen cloth; if it is 
fastened to a long handle like a mop, it will be easier, as it will save 
stooping. Lint is very apt to be left by linen or cotton cloths. 
Then give it a dry sawdust rub once a week. 

Hot grease spilled on a wood floor should have cold water 
thrown on it at once, to harden it and prevent its striking into the 
wood. 

For musty floors, take an old broom and scrub on a strong hot 
solution of chloride of lime. First scrub them clean, however, be- 
fore applying the solution. 

Marks of tchitewasJi can be removed by scrubbing well with 
soap and water. 

For grease or oil stains take | lb. fuller's earth and ^ lb. jjearl- 
ash, and make a paste with about 1 quart boiling water; while hot, 
spread it on the greased surface, allowing it to remain 10 or 15 hours 
or morCj Then scour ofl' with clean water, using sand if necessary. 
If the grease stains are very numerous, and the floor very dirty, it 
may be spread all over the floor, and left on 24 hours before washing 
off. Or, old grease stains may be softened by soaking them with tur- 
pentine, and then scraped oft'. 

Ink spots 0)1 floors may be removed by scouring them well with 
sand wet with water, and a little oil of vitriol added. Then rinse 
them with strong saleratus water, or pearlash water. Ink stains may 
be removed from unpainted boards or wood by using either strong 
vinegar or salts of lemon. Or, dissolve some oxalic acid in ^ pint of 
hot water; apply with a rag, tied to a stick; wash oft' afterwards with 
soda, soap and water. This will remove many other stains also. A 
paste of damp chloride of lime will remove ink stains from boards. 



FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 713 

Soot stains on a wooden floor or boards can be removed by 
washing the spot in sulphuric acid and water. 

To Sfoj) C)r(cks in Floors. — (1) Make a paste of 6 quarts of 
water, 2 lbs. of flour, and 2 tablespoons of alum; boil and mix thor- 
oughly, and then soak newspapers thoroughly in the paste until it 
is all about the consistency of putty. Force it into the cracks with 
a suitable knife. It will harden nicely, and be neat and permanent. 
(2) Dissolve 1 part glue in 16 parts water, and when almost cool stir 
in a sufficient Cjuantity of sawdust and prepared chalk. (3) Mix 
plaster of Paris to a paste with water in which glue has been dis- 
solved, as that prevents it from cracking and falling between the 
boards. It can .be colored to match the boards if liked. Mix but 
a little at a time, and keep it warm while using. (4) Use putty. 

Waxed Floors.— :^e\er use water on waxed floors. Before wax- 
ing, if there are any spots remove them with turpentine or benzine; 
then wipe perfectly clean with a dry cloth, and apply the prepara- 
tion of wax, putting on very little, or else it will be sticky. Apply 
it with a flannel cloth and then rub until it shines like varnish, 
rubbing with rough flannel or Brussels carpet. With reasonable 
usage it should then last several months. Any little spot which be- 
comes dim should be rubbed up with flannel. 

WeJl polished ivox floors can be rubbed off every morning with 
a large flannel cloth, which is soaked in kerosene oil every lO days 
or 2 weeks. , Shake the cloth free from dust, and using a stubby 
broom or scrubbing brush, rub ra^jidly up and down with the grain 
— not across it; the floor will soon assume a polished appearance 
which dirt and footprints do not easily deface. 

Waxed jloors ivhicli seem sticky and dirtij after many waxings 
and long use should be cleaned with turpentine, but never use water 
on a, waxed floor. 

Stained floors should be dusted every day, and if desired the 
IDreparation of beeswax and turpentine (given further on) can be ap- 
plied to them, and then they should be treated like any waxed floor. 

Cleaning ivillt. Saivdust. — If stained or painted floors are washed 
with water the gloss will soon be injured, besides which more or less 
moisture is apt to soak in, to their further detriment. It is better 
to scrub them with dry sawdust. Use that which is dry and clean. 
Scatter it over a space about a yard square, and then scrub it with 
a new, stiff* scrubbing brush, the same as would be done with water. 
Use more sawdust and extra rubbing for spots unusually soiled. 
When the whole floor is gone over, sweep up and burn the sawdust, 
and then dust the floor before laying down mats or rugs. Unpainted 
or even varnished floors may be treated the same way to advantage. 

For Waxivg Floors. — Melt 8 oz. beeswax in 1 quart turpentine; 
as the latter is very inflammable it must be warmed over a slow Are, 
free from blaze. Apply with clean flannel; then polish with another 
dry and clean piece. 

A Wax Floor Polish.— Take 12| lbs. yellow wax, rasped, and 6 
lbs. pearlash, and boil them in water. Stir well, and when eiferves- 



714 FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 

cence ceases, add 6 lbs. dry yellow ochre; then pour all into a tin. 
For use, add 5 pints boiling water; stir well, and apply while hot; 
polish afterwards with a large brush, and wipe with a coarse woolen 
cloth. — " D< condor and Furnisher.'''' 

A Hord Wood Polish. — Take 1 pint of turpentine, 5 oz. pow- 
dered resin, and 24 oz. yellow beeswax. Put them in a pan, set them 
in a larger pan of hot water, and melt, stirring well till thoroughly 
mixed. Manage carefully as they are very inflammable. Let it get 
cold, and if thicker than cream thin down with turpentine. Apply 
it with a woolen cloth (having the floor clean and dry) and then rulD 
hard with a polishing brush. Finish with soft green baize. 

A Floor V(iniisJi.-~ Take ^ lb. of pure white" borate of man- 
ganese finely powdered, and add it little by little to a pan containing 
2^ lbs. of linseed oil; it must be M'ell stirred and raised to a temper- 
ature of 360° Fahr. Heat 25 lbs. of linseed oil in a boiler till 
ebullition takes place; then add it to the first liquid, increase the 
heat, and allow it to boil for 20 minutes. Remove from the fire, and 
filter the solution through a piece of calico. The varnish is then 
ready for use; 2 coats may be api^lied. Add a final coat of shellac 
varnish if a brilliant polish is desired. Make -J the quantity the 
same way. 

A black irirnish for icood may be prepared by taking good var- 
nish and mixing in enough ivory ])lack to color it; lay on a tliin 
even coat. Clean it any time by wiping with a woolen cloth dipped 
in warm water. 

St((ins foi' Floors. — A kitchen floor may be stained by taking a 
lye made from wood ashes and adding enough copperas to give it an 
oak shade; apply with a brush, and when dry varnish the floor. Or 
oil the floor with boiled linseed oil, apj)lied with a paint brush; 
when dry, varnish it. To clean such a floor is much easier than a 
white one. 

A general stain for floors, the color of which can be varied at 
will, can be prepared as follows: Take 2 parts linseed oil ( unboiled) 
and mix in 1 part turi3entine; add a little Japan dryer. This is the 
foundation, to which add any of the pigments hereafter given to pro- 
duce the color desired. Stir in enough of the selected ijigment to 
make the whole about as thick as syrup; set it over a moderate fire 
and bring it to a boil; then, for each quart of the mixture take a 
lump of yellow beeswax the size of a walnut, and, having melted it, 
stir it in well; then take from the fire; let it cool 10 minules, and thin 
it till it runs freely, with turpentine.' Lay it on with a good sized 
brush, making the strokes the way the grain runs, and apply it 
freely. When it is thoroughly dry, varnish the floor, adding a gill of 
unboiled linseed oil to the quart of varnish. Polish afterwards at 
any time with turpentine and beeswax mixed. A little over a quart 
of the above mixture will be needed for each 16 square yards of floor. 
The process is neither difficult nor expensive, and any lady can 
apply it, with a little practice. 

The great secret of staining is to properly thin the stain and 
apply it evenly with a brush. Try a color on a piece of plain board 



FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 715 

before using it, to make sure the shade is right. Soft woods take a 
deeper color than hard. Of the pigments which may be used to 
color the above mixture, Vandyke brown or burnt umber will make a 
bUick ivahiut stain. Burnt sienna makes an almost perfect maliog- 
(Uiy stain if properly thinned. For cherry, combine red oxide of 
lead and burnt sienna. Raw umber makes a good stain for floors, 
especially for white pine. Raw sienna makes a yellow stain. In 
fact the shades can be combined and varied at pleasure, and several 
colors can be applied to a single floor, working out figures and i^retty 
designs if desired. 

Sizing for Slained Floors. — Take | quart of cold water and 1 
lb. size, and heat gently till it melts. Do not apply till the stain is 
fully dry; then use a flat brush to lay it on with. Add a little warm 
water if it froths while being applied. Do not cover with varnish 
till fully dry. If you varnish it use the best, and lay it on with a flat 
brush, freely and evenly. Do not step on it then till it is hard. 

Wipe a varnished floor about once a week with a soft cloth 
wrung out of lukewarm water. 

To Ehonize Wood Floors. — In 1 quart of water boil 1 lb. log- 
wood chips until it is colored well. A^Dply this evenly, giving a sec- 
ond coat to close textured boards. Let it dry, and then ajDply a 
strong solution of sulphate of iron in water. A fine black results 
which can be sized and then waxed or varnished. 

Enamelinfi Floors.— T\\\^ is done by applying several coats of 
paint, and rul)biag the floor down with fine glass paper between 
each coat. It is best done by a skilled workman. 

Oiled Floors. — Heat boiled linseed oil boiling hot; have the 
floor very clean, and then, using an old ijaint brush, apply the oil, 
keeping it hot all the time It may be colored if desired; 1 table- 
spoon of burnt umber to the quart of oil darkens it, while the same 
quantity of yellow ochre will make it light. A bad floor will re- 
quire 2 coats; even a very rough floor will be greatly benefited by 
thus oiling it. It will be often enough, in most families, to oil a 
floor twice a year. It can be kept clean by dusting daily, and wip- 
ing once a week with a flannel cloth wrung out of warm water. 
Avoid using soap on it. It may be oil polished by rubbing the oil in 
with a rubber, and the more it is rubbed the better it will look. 

A Yellow P((int for Floors can be made by dissolving 2 oz. of 
glue in 2 quarts of soft water; then lift it from the fire and "stir in 2 
lbs. of yellow ochre; have the floor clean and dry and apply at once. 
When dry, lay on a thin coat of boiled linseed oil. Do not walk oh 
it till thoroughly dry. 

Uall Floo7-s. — Hardwood or tiles make the^ best hall floor. 
Upon this a strip of carpet or a rug should be laid, and if necessary 
fastened in place with brass rings. If the floor is of natural wood, 
lightly cover it at first with linseed oil, and have it rubbed smooth 
and cleaned when dry; then apply a coat of shellac varnish, or polish 
once a month with beeswax and turpentine. If soft pine is used it 
will be best to apply several coats of colored varnish. 



71G FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 

To Keep Ground Floors Dry. — Spread over the ground, when 
building, a layer of coal dust crushed fine. Cover it with a layer of 
sand of equal thickness. On top of this lay the floor. The coal dust 
absorbs the moisture of the ground, while the sand and floor are kept 
dry. 

CARPETS. 

To Sweep. — For ingrain and short pile carpets scatter te^deaves 
(which have first been rinsed in clean M'ater, to prevent their staining, 
and are then drained well so that they are damp, not wet) over the 
carpet; rub them in with the broom first, and then sweep as usual. 
This will prevent dust and brighten the colors, but the lightest col- 
ored carpets may be stained slightly with the teadeaves; they are 
best therefore on dark=colored carpets. Old teadeaves should be kept 
for this purpose in a pot set apart for them. Squeeze the water out 
thoroughly with the hand before using them. As a substitute for the 
teadeaves, newspapers are sometimes used; put them in water till 
soft; squeeze dry, and tear up. Another way is to throw on damp 
salt and then sweep thoroughly; or, sweep first, and then scatter on 
coarse salt, or dampened Indian meal, and sweep again; or after 
sweeping put a cup of coarse salt in a large basin of water, and go 
over the carpet with a clean cloth wet in it. Either of these methods 
will brighten the colors wonderfully. 

Wiping the carpet thoroughly, after sweeping, with a damj) flan- 
nel cloth wrung out of warm soapsuds, or water containing ammonia 
or borax, is also fin excellent way to keep it bright. Bran is a good 
thing to sweep with to keep down the dust. Sweep with a short, 
sharp stroke, without scattering the dust. No other plan is so good 
as burning the dirt. 

Thick=piled carpets, like Axminster and Turkey, should be 
swept the way of the pile always. In this way they can be kept 
clean for years, but if swex)t any other way the dust will enter the 
carpet and soon spoil it, Anu carpet swept against the grain soon 
looks rough and battered. 

Velvet pile carpets are best swept by using firmly a hard wdiisk 
brush, made of cocoanut fiber; once a week wipe them over with a 
chamois leather dampened with water containing ammonia. 

Another plan, enthusiastically advocated by some housekeepers, 
is to do away with the use of brooms almost altogether. Instead of 
sweeping they go over the carpet each week with a sponge wet in a 
pail of warm water containing a little ammonia, and wipe carefully 
about 2 square feet of surface at a time. The daily litter they clean 
up with a carpet sweeper. Carpets thus treated last longer and look 
better, and the dust in the room will be lessened | at least; it is bet- 
ter than a bi-weekly sweeping. 

To Becd Carpets. — All carpets or rugs should be well beaten, 
and rubbed with a broom, before being cleaned. To beat properly, 
hang them on a stout line, wrong side out. The sticks used should 
be pliable, with cloth in the form of a knot at the end to prevent 



FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 717 

tearing the caqDet. After well beating the wrong side, turn and beat 
the other in the same way. After the floor has been washed and be- 
come thoroughly dry, the carpet can be relaid and then cleaned. 

To Clean Carpets icit/i BitUock''s GfiU. — Use 1 iDint to 3 gallons 
of water, and add 5 oz. pearlash; mix well. With a brush scrub 
about 1 square yard of the carpet at a time, as quickly and carefully 
as possible, and then suck up the gall with a flannel or sponge, which 
should be frequently rinsed in clean cold water; then dry with clean 
linen" or cotton cloths before beginning another square. Thus pro- 
ceed until the carpet is finished. For carpets which are not very 
dirty, or which contain delicate colors, this process is adapted, as it 
will not soil them. Old gall will smell, but by using fresh gall the 
odor will disappear in a few hours. 

To Clean Carpets tcith Soap Liquor. — Cut up a bar of soap 
and dissolve it over a fire in 2 gal. of water. Put 2 quarts of this dis- 
solved soap into a pail of warm water, add a little ammonia, and wash 
1 square yard at a time as directed for the bullock's gall process. In 
neither case should the liquid be allowed to soak through to the back 
of the carpet, but apply and wipe it up quickly. Have the floor per- 
fectly dry before the carpet is laid, and keep a fire in the room to ex- 
pedite the drying. Ingrain, tapestry, Bru.ssels and Turkish carpets 
are all cleaned the same way, and the secret of the best results is in 
rinsing them thoroughly without letting them become soaked 
through. 

L'rocess No. 3. — Another good way is to take 1 lb. of soap, ^ lb. 
soda, 1 oz. nitric acid, and 1 gal. water. First melt the soajj and soda 
in an oven; then mix all well in the water. With a clean scrubbing- 
brush wash the carpet well from seam to seam with this mixture, and 
rinse it otf quickly with clean soft water, using a flannel cloth or 
sponge. Do only a small piece of the carpet at a time, and rub that 
dry before doing more. 

Process No. 4. — Another process for a very dirty carpet is to 
take 2 gallons of boiling water, 1 oz. of soap, and 1 drachm of soda. 
Apply with a clean flannel, rub well, and then rinse well with clean 
hot water. After becoming thoroughly dry the colors are greatly im- 
proved by rubbing it over with a flannel dipped in a strong solution 
of ox=gall. 

A neic and excellent pi-ocess for cleanincj carpets, without tak- 
ing them up, is the following: To 1 quart of warm water add 5 oz. 
of castile soap, cut fine; let it boil, then add 2 oz. pulverized borax. 
When cold, add 2 oz. aqua ammonia, | oz sulphuric ether, \ oz. glycr 
erine, \ oz. spirits of wine. Take 2 tablespoons of the mixture and 
l^ut it in 1 quart of warm water (or use in this proportion) and with 
a cloth or sponge rub the carpet briskly. It is not necessary to use 
the liquid very freely, but a large amount of foam or suds is devel- 
oped, and rubbing this briskly over the carpet seems to be the most 
effective agency in cleaning it. After a few scpiare feet of the sur- 
face have been thoroughly rubbed with the foam, dry with a flannel 
cloth or sponge, rinsing it frequently in clean water. Do not use the 



718 FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 

liquid too freely, or get the carpet too wet. This application does 
not injure the most delicate colors, but, on the contrary, revives them, 
removes grease spots and smears of almost every kind, and restores 
the dirtiest ^-arpet to almost its original beauty. Besides which it is 
easily applied. The process is excellent, and has been kept as a se- 
cret, but we were fortunate enough to secure it. 

1)1 cities where bitiniiiiious coed is vsecl a carpet may be scrub- 
bed with good effect as regularly as a floor. Sweep the carpet first, 
and then go over it with a very clean mop or flannel cloth and clean 
water, with 4 tablespoons of ammonia to the bucketful. Change the 
water frequently. By leaving the windows open it will soon dry. 

Removing Grease From Carpets. — (1) Common wheat flour (or 
buckwheat if it is in the house) is one of the best domestic applica- 
tions for removing kerosene, or any oil or grease, from a carpet. 
Sprinkle it on at once and freely; leave 2 or 8 days; sweep it into a 
dustpan, and apply more, repeating until all trace is gone. It can be 
removed in this way. (2) Old grease spots may be cut by applying 
spirits of turpentine and leaving it on several hours; then rub be- 
tween the hands and it will come away, and the colors will be unin- 
jured. (8) Lay damp fuller's earth on a grease spot, let it stay sev- 
eral hours, and then rub gently into the carpet; then wash off with a 
little annnonia carl)onate and the colors will be restored. (4) Make 
a paste by ijouring boiling water on equal parts of fuller's earth and 
magnesia. Place this while hot on the grease sj)ot; when thoroughly 
dry, brush (jtV. The grease will be gone. (5) Make a thick paste of 
fuller's earth with cold rain-water and spread thinly over the greased 
part of the carpet; let it dry thoroughly, and then brush off with a 
stiff brush; all traces of the oil will have disappeared. This may be 
applied to the most delicate fabric. If the first application is not 
sufficient, apply again. It will do the work. (6) If the stain is re- 
cent, wash with warm soapsuds and borax— using |- oz. borax to 1 
gallon of water; then rinse with warm water and wipe dry. 

If soot is ^i)itled on a carpet, cover it at once with a plentiful 
layer of salt, and sweep all up together; hardly a trace of the soot 
will be left. Any trace remaining can be removed by washing the 
spot with soaj) and ammonia. 

Ink Stains on Carpets. — When ink is spilled on a carpet im- 
mediately take up all that is possible with blotting paper, and then 
wash out what you can with milk, either sweet or sour; then sprinkle 
white cornmeal on plentifully and leave over night; in the morning 
sweep it up, and not a ijarticle of the stain should remain, and the 
colors will be bright. For (Iry ink stains proceed the same way, but 
let the milk soak in for a while, and repeat many times. Or prepare 
a solution of 8 parts soft water to 1 part, by measure, of powdered 
oxalic acid, and rub it on; then wash it put thoroughly or the acid 
will destroy the cloth. If the colors are affected at all, dry with flan- 
nel and at once apply annnonia to neutralize the acid; then wipe dry, 
and apply chloroform which will bring out the colors. 

Spots from sugar or sweets can be taken out with water and a 
damp cloth, as water will dissolve sugar, 



FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 719 

Varnish stcdifs on carpefs should be cut with turpentine or 
benzine, and then washed carefully with clean soapsuds. 

Gnm or ivax on a carpet can be cut by applyino^ benzine or 
alcohol, and so removed. 

For Whitewash, Acids or Discolored Spots on Carpets. — A 
few drops of carbonate of ammonia, and a small quantity of warm 
rain-water, will prove a safe and easy antacid, etc., and will, if care- 
fully applied, remove discolored spots upon carpets, and indeed, all 
spots, whether produced by acids or alkalies. If injured by white- 
wash this will immediately restore a carpet. 

Either paint or oil may be removed from a carpet by patient 
rubbing with chloroform. Be careful not to inhale the fumes. (See 
also the article on "Removing Spots and Stains," elsewhere.) 

If the colors of a carpet are injured, see M'hat we say about 
injured colors in the article elsewhere on " Removing Spots and 
Stains." 

To Lai) Carpets. — In laying a carpet, work it the lengthway of 
the material. Nail one end clear across, but do not nail the sides 
until you are sure it is fvilly stretched. A carpet stretcher is a great 
help. A new carpet should be stretched rather tightly, or after being 
walked over a few days it will rub up into folds and wrinkles. If the 
puckers in the seams are unusually obstinate, and do not disappear 
after the carpet has been down a few days, wet them with clean cold 
water; when it dries the carpet will be smooth. 

If. before laying the caqoet, the floor is washed with water con- 
taining borax or alum, and if pepper, salt, camphor or alum are 
sprinkled under, and especially around the edges of the carpet, it will 
help to keep out insects. Lay down the carpet, turn back the edge, 
sprinkle on whatever you use; then turn back the carpet and tack it 
down. Have the floor perfectly dry before the carpet is laid. Car- 
pets of whatever kind wear better if the floor boards are perfectly 
even; also if laid down over carpet lining, paper or coarse canvas. 
Good carpet lining is a protection against insects. Get the moth 
proof lining; newspapers are the next best things, as the i^rinter's 
ink repels moths; use several thicknesses of it. 

If newsj)ai)ers are laid under carpet lining, that will M'ear longer. 
Carpets prepared with loops on the side, and nails in grooves on the 
floor, on which they hook, are easily taken up, and the plan seems a 
good one. Carpets which are not tacked down may, if they turn up, 
be thoroughly wetted on the back; when dry they will lie flat for 
some time, but the process may have to be rej)eated. 

Stair carpets should always have a pad put under them, at or 
over the edge of every stair. Use cotton, paper, or iMeces of old car- 
pet, which answer very well. Have the pad a little narroM^er than 
the carpet itself. Good pads will make the carpet look richer, feel 
softer to the feet, and wear twice as long. If the carpet is a little 
longer than the stairs, and is moved up or down a little each time it 
is taken up, thus bringing the wear in a new place, it will last much 
longer. 



720 FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 

When putting doivn a new carpet it will be a good idea to 
save the raveliiiio-s; they may be very useful later on in mending the 
carpet, in buying a carpet small patterns as a rule are best. 

When painting tlie baseboard, if 2 or 3 inches of the floor are 
painted at the same time and the same color, if the carpet does not 
Xjerfectly cover the floor, the gap will not be noticeable. 

Insects. — These usually make their appearance where the carpet 
is folded under, or under heavy furniture and in places where the 
feet do not tread. With ingrain and Brussels carpets, on their first 
appearance lay on a wet cloth and apply a very liot flat=iron; the 
steam generated kills all insects. When a carpet is not taken up at 
housecleaning time it is well to thus steam it, as that kills all eggs as 
well as insects. Wilton or Axminster carpets are better sent to a 
steam cleaner's. If the wet cloth and hot iron are applied to these it 
should be on the wrong side, as the thick pile on the right side pre- 
vents the penetration of the heat. Either benzine or alum water will 
eradicate insects, and neither w^ill injure the colors. Pulverized 
alum, sprinkled under the edges and in troublesome corners, is an 
admirable preventive. (For further information about insects see 
the article on " Insect Pests."") 

SHEEPSKIN RUGS OR MATS. 

To Clean Them. — (1) Take out dirt and grease spots with 
strong soaj) liquor, or if necessary use fuller's earth. For a thorough 
cleaning, after taking out spots in this way, dissolve 1 bar of soap in 
2 gallons of boiling water; ]put 2 quarts of this in a tub or pan con- 
taining about 2 gal. of warm water. Put the rug or mat into this 
pan, and thoroughly wash and punch it. Throw away this first 
liquor, and mix another lot in the same way, and again wash the rug; 
continue this until it is perfectly clean. Then rinse well in cold 
water to take out all the soap. For white skins only, rinse again in 
cold water in wdiich a little blue has been dissolved. Then wring 
out, shake and hang to dry with the skin side toward the sun, but 
not when the heat is scorching, or the skin will become hard and 
brittle. It should, while dryings be shaken frequently, and hung up 
first by one side and then by the other. (2) Rub oil or tallow into 
the skin side, and heat to assist its drying; then with soap and water 
wash the skin in the usual way; dry it well, and 
wash with benzine. Thus treated the skin re- 
mains soft. 

White Goatskin Rugs. — These may be 
cleaned with naphtha. Wet a small place, and 
then rub with a soft cloth until clean; then j 
clean another small place, and so on until all 
is gone over. Afterwards hang up in an airy goat. 

f)lace until the odor is gone. Be very careful 

not to allow a light in the room when using naphtha, as it is very 
inflammable. 




FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 721 

HEARTH RUGS. 

Do not clean these on tlie floor, bnt put them on a large scour- 
ing board. Clean only a small part at a time, and as soon as flnished, 
dry them quickly, which is especially important when the pile is 
thick. They may be cleaned by either of the processes given for 
cleaning carpets. 

OILCLOTHS. 

Oilcloth is made from canvas covered with layers of oihpaint. 
It should be kept for some time to harden the paint, as otherwise it 
chips and soon wears out. In buying, get that which is as old as 
j)ossible — if several years old, so much the better. That made re- 
cently is hardly worth buying. The heaviest oilcloth is usually the 
best. 

On buying a new oilcloth its durability may be increased by 
first putting on 1 or 2 coats of linseed oil, and, when thoroughly dry, 
adding 1 or 2 coats of varnish, which should also dry well before the 
oilcloth is used. 

Care of Oilcloth.— Oilcloth, should never be scrubbed with a 
brush, nor should hot water ever be used on it. Soap, soda, ammo- 
nia, washing powders and stifp brushes all start the paint and spoil 
the cloth, and too frequent washing is not advisable. To clean it, 
use cold water, or that which is not more than lukeMarm, and apply 
it with a large, soft cloth. Dry it M'ell. and then sponge it over with 
milk; then wipe it with a soft dry cloth and it will look fresh and 
bright. If used si)aringly, warm linseed oil gives it a glossy look, 
but applied ijlentifully it makes it sticky, so that the dust adheres to 
it. The most common mistake, is using too much oil. L^se but little 
and polish it well afterwards, thus imparting a handsome gloss. 

Few housekeepers realize the difference between dusty and 
dirty oilcloth. Ordinarily, after sweepiug, if it looks dull and dusty, 
go over it with a dry mop cloth, a little at a time, and it will look as 
bright as though washed, and will wear a great deal longer thus 
treated. Whenever water is applied to oilcloth it should be wiped 
perfectly drij, or the dampness will soon rot it. 

It is a good plan to apply linseed oil 3 or 4 times a year; apply 
but little, rub it in slightly, and polish well with an old silk or flaunel 
cloth. Aljout once a year apply a coat of good coach varnish. Do 
not step on it till fully dry. Thus treated, oilcloth will wear 8 times 
as long as otherwise. 

Whenever oilcloth is laid where it will be much exposed to the 
sun it should have paper laid under it, as otherwise it may stick fast 
to the floor. 

Oilcloth may be improved by applying now and then a mixture 
of ^ oz. of beeswax in a saucerful of turpentine; or use linseed oil, 
turpentine and l)eesM^ax mixed. Be sure and rub it in well, and pol- 
ish it off thoroughly with a dry cloth. 

Removing White Sjiots. — If oilcloth is turned white by setting- 
IB 



722 



FLOORS AND FLOOR COVERINGS 



anything hot upon it, put on a little spirits of camphor, and rub it 
well with a dry cloth. 

LINOLEUM. 

Soda rapidly destroys linoleum, but soap and greasa do not. 
Wlien dirt}], wash it with soap and water; then apply equal parts of 
linseed oil and vinegar mixed. This is the best thing, and much 
better than milk, which is commonly used. Linseed oil and turpen- 
tine, mixed in equal quantities, if rubbed on occasionally, makes it 
bright as new and improves its wear, but polish it otf well after ap- 
plying it. 

Linoleum is a preparation of linseed oil, hardened or oxidized, mixed with 
ground cork, and pressed on rollers. Many prefer it to oilcloth, because it is not 
so cold; it is noiseless, and it is impervious to damp. 

MATTINGS. 

Sti-atD and Iitdid, mailiiu/ iiuijj hr. rlediicd: (1) By using warm 
water and salt; use a soft cloth, dip it in the solution, wring it out, 
and wipe the matting, wetting it only sufficiently to remove dust and 
stains. The salt will prevent its turning yellow. (2) Prepare good 
bran water by boiling in water bran contained in a bag and squeez- 
ing the bag to extract the virtue of the bran. When moderately hot 
wash about a sc[uare yard at a time, with a flannel cloth dipped in 
this bran= water, and dry at once with a linen cloth. (3) For stains, 
mix lemon juice and salt; apply it to the stain, let it stand several 
hours, and then wash it off. 

Shriw M(dtin(j. — This should be fastened in position, as it will 
crack and become wrinkled if laid so that it can l)e taken up like 
cocoanut matting. It should be dusted regularly, and washed occa- 
sionally — perhaps twice during a season where not much used,' and 
oftener where much exposed. 

A thin coat of varnish applied to straw matting will make it 
more durable and improve its apijearancc. 

Cocoanut Matting. — This when very 
dirty may be scrubbed while on the floor witii 
hot water and soap, then taken up, loosely 
folded, rinsed in cold water, and hung on a 
line till dry. As all dirt sifts through a 
cocoanut matting it should be taken' up once 
a week, shaken, and the jfloor washed and 
dried thoroughly before putting it down 
again. This is usually about all the treat- 
ment it needs. 

Cocoanut matting is made from the fibrous cover- 
ing of the cocoanut, and it is thick, strong and useful; 
There are many qualities, the finer grades being really 
the cheapest in the end, because more durable. 

7- 7 . ij • • in r. COCOANUT PALM. 

JiKlia maitnifi is made of grass fiber, 
and if it gets too dry it quickly splits. In hot weather it should be 




FURNITURE 723 

washed over with water once or twice a week, and left wet, and the 
fiber will absorb moisture enough to keep it fairly tough. If of good 
quality it wears a long time if properly cared for. 

For grease spots on mcdiiiuj apply a paste of fuller's earth or 
pipe clay. 

For ink spots use oxalic acid as advised for wood floors. 

TILED FLOORS. 

Wash ordinarily 2 or 8 times a week with soft water, soft soap, 
and flannel cloths. If stained, wash with a solution of | jjail of soft 
water to 1 pint of hydrochloric acid; then wash thoroughly with 
fresh water and a little soft soap. 



FURNITURE. 

f"T URNITURE need not be bought in '• sets," nor need there be 
(o) any desire to have all the furniture in a room " match.'" 
A. The best taste does not require it, and it often makes a 
room look stitf and formal. Let each room have an individ- 
uality of its own. Do not overcrop' d a room either. In 
buying furniture select it more for comfort than for show. You are 
fitting up a hoine to live in, and it should be made the most comfort- 
able and attractive place on earth for its various members. Also 
when you buy, get well made furniture which will wear — it will be 
the cheapest in the end. Do not be afraid of second hand furniture 
if you find what yo*i want. Most young housekeepers regard it with 
too much contempt, while many old ones, especially bargain hunters, 
set too much store by it. The following hints about buying furni- 
ture will be of value to young housekeepers: (!) Do not buy what 
you do not need. (2) When you buy get the best, or the best you 
can atford. (8) Pay cash, or wait till you can. (4) Buy single 
pieces, or a few jjieces at a time, as you have the means. (5) Do not 
be ashamed to wait for bargains, and pick them up when they come 
in your way. ((3) Do not buy anything because some one else has, 
unless you really need it yourself. 

Care of Furniture. — Rub varnished furniture every day when it 
is dusted with a soft silk cloth or chamois skin. Constant rubbing is 
better than the frequent use of furniture polish, which is apt to 
make the furniture smeary. It must, however, be kept clean. To do 
this it is well to wash it occasionally, say twice a year, at the spring 
and fall housecleaning. with a flannel wrung out of cold tea, or with 
vinegar and water. Then polish with a dry chamois, and use one of 
the furniture polishes given further on. After applying (i)};i fur- 
niture polish rub until the furniture is tJiorouffJilij (Irjj and shiny. 
Many people apply too much polish, and they do not rub it enough 
afterwards, so that a thiu film is left which collects dust; this should 
never be. 



724 FURNITURE 

Painted furniture is cleaned principally by dusting; if washed it 
should be done quickly, with a little warm water, and dried at once 
with a soft cloth ; or use a damp cloth dipped in whiting, instead of 
soaj). 

Oak, polished or unpolished (not varnished), may be cleaned 
with cold tea, and then i)olished with a preparation of beeswax and 
turpentine. After applying it, rub well with flannel. 

The best brush for the woodwork of chairs, etc., has bristles at 
the end. 

To Restore Dull and Scratclied Furniture.— (1) One of the best 
things to use, because it gives a good gloss, restores the col(jr of the 
wood, and covers scratches as well as anything except a thorough 
scraping and refinishing, is a mixture of 1 j)art turpentine and 8 parts 
linseed oil, rubbed on with a flannel clolh. (2) Old fashioned 
housekeepers think that for French polished furniture there is noth- 
ing better than beeswax and turpentine, rubbed in thoroughly until 
it shines like glass. 

Cave Cliair Seats. — These may be washed with hot water, in 
which a little lemon has been squeezed, until the cane is well soaked; 
leave it in the open air to dry. Or, beat out the dust, and then turn 
the chair bottom upwards and wash the cane, using a sponge and hot 
water; if it is very dirty use soap also. Wash thoroughly and see 
that it is well soaked; then let it dry in the open air. This method 
will make the canes clean, tight and elastic. 

Leather chair seats may be revived by rubbing them with 
"glaire." (For the method of making "glaire" see "Leather.") 

Cliintz on furniture can be cleaned by brushing it lightly, then 
wiping with clean flannel, and then rubbing it with dry bread; it will 
lo5k nearly equal to new. 

H((ir Cloth on Furniture. — This may be cleaned by wiping it 
well with a clean wet cloth. 

Upholstered furniture should be beaten with small pliable 
switches to clear out the dust, and then brushed with a good brush. 
Always clean carefully around all buttons and tufts on the furniture. 

If mollis appear in upholstered furnitui-e, saturate it with ben- 
zine or gasoline. This will not injure any fabric, and it is death to 
all vermin. It will soon evaporate so that no odor will be left. 

Dust sillx, satin or leather irpholstering with a soft cloth; any- 
thing harsh will scratch it. 

White S])ots on any varnislied fiirniture may be removed: (1) 
By rubbing with a rag wet with spirits of camphor, or with essence 
of jjeiDpermint, and then with furniture polish or oil. (2) Wet a 
flannel in turi^entine and then rub the spot hard ; several ai^plications 
may be needed and some patience. (8) H^ld a warming pan, hot 
stove lid, or shovel of coals over the spot; then rub, while it is warm, 
with soft flannel. A good -way. (4) Rub with pulverized pumice 
stone mixed with a little linseed oil; then take a cotton cloth and 
brush the spot over with shellac varnish, thinned with turpentine. 



PtTRNITURE I'lo 

Spots caused hy (iJcohol or aiiythiiKj liot may be removed by 
hard rubbing with turpentine and sweet oil mixed; after the spots are 
removed, wash with lukewarm soapsuds dry quickly, and polish by 
briskly rubbing with chamois skin. 

Finger niaiil's on varnished furniture may be removed by rub- 
bing the spot with sweet oil; on oiled furniture rub them with kero- 
sene. 

Dark Stains on Fiuiiiture. — These may often be removed with a 
little oxalic acid and water, rubbed on hard and diligently with a 
cork; wash the place afterwards with clear water, dry, and polish in 
the ordinary way. Kerosene will remove many stains from varnished 
furniture. 

El)onized furniture or icood may be polished and restored by 
rubbing all spots the way of the grain of the wood with finely pul- 
verized pumice stone and oil; then polish with a soft dry cloth. 

Oiled Jratnut. — This when it begins to look dingy, can be made 
to look as fresh as new by re oiling it. Either linseed or good kero- 
sene may be used. Apply it with a soft woolen rag, and rub it in 
well; then polish it with clean, dry flannel. Or, put 2 tablespoons of 
boiled linseed oil in 1 pint of strong cotfee; apply warm with flannel; 
"ub with dry flannel to finish. 

Willow Furniture. — This should be cleaned with salt and water. 
Scrub it well with a small brush and dry it thoroughly. Take out 
(/rease spots with fuller's earth, and in.k sfcdjis with oxalic acid, as 
described for wood floors or wood. 

To Bleach Willow Ware.—^oak. it for 15 minutes in commer- 
cial peroxide of hydrogen (it can be obtained at any drug store and is 
often called "oxygenated water"); then take it out and expose it to 
the sun. This will bleach it snow white. Willow baskets, etc., can 
be thus bleached. 

To Rej)olish and Finislt Old Mahogany. — First remove the old 
varnish with sandpaper! or if it is French polish remove it with al- 
cohol. Produce a fine finish with the finest sandpaper, then rub with 
vinegar, and then apply boiled linseed oil; let it soak a few days and 
then rub it with flannel cloths. Oil each evening, let soak over 
night, and rub during the day, and the more you rub the finer the 
finish. A little alkanet root and rose pink added to the oil will has- 
ten the process. 

Stains on Mahogany. — (1) An excellent i^reparation for taking 
stains from mahogany, as well as ink, if not of too long standing, is 
the following: To ^ ]}h\t of soft water, put 1 oz. oxalic acid, and -| 
oz. butter (terchloride) of antimony; shake well. When dissolved, it 
is ready for use. Rinse afterwards with clear water. (2) Another 
preparation for removing stains from mahogany is to mix 6 oz. of 




726 FURNITURE 

spirit of salt and ^ oz. of powdered salts of lemon. Drop a little of 
this mixture on the stains, and rub well with 
a cork until they disappear; then wash oflf 
with cold water. 

White spots Oil malicxjaiuj tables caused 
by hot dishes may be removed by pourini^ a 
little kerosene oil on the spot and rubbing it 
with a flannel cloth; add more kerosene occa- 
sionally, rub hard, and persevere until the stain 
disappears. Always rub the way of the grain. 
(2) Rub on oil, then pour on a little alcohol 
and rub it dry with a soft cloth. mahogany tree. 

A ni((]iofja)Uj top of tioth may be restored 
by washing it thoroughly with warm water and soap, and when dry 
apply the following polish with a flannel, and afterwards rub well 
with a soft dry cloth: Mix | pint brown vinegar, ^ pint linseed oil, 
1 wineglass alcohol. Shake the mixture well. If very shabby, it will 
require several apijlications. 

The Mahogany tree is a native of the tropics. It is a beautiful tree, often 
attaining a diameter of 6 feet. It takes a fine ijolish, is very durable, and is the 
most highly prized of all the furniture woods. 

Ink Stdiiis on Malwganij, Btack Watnnt, or Rosetvood Fnrni- 
ttire. — These may be removed as follows: Take a teaspoon of water 
and add or 8 drops of nitric acid; touch the spot with a feather 
dipped in the mixture; as soon as the ink disappears rub it at once 
with a rag wet with cold water, or there will be a white spot not eas- 
ily effaced. If the first application does not remove it, strengthen 
the mixture and repeat as before. Or, apply muriatic acid with a 
rag until the spot is gone, and then wash with water as directed 
above. Or, use diluted oil of vitriol the same way. Use all acids 
with care. 

Boseirood Fiii-iiiture. — This should be wiped daily with a dry 
soft cloth ; it will not require rubbing, and no oil should be used on 
it. 

To Remove Ink Stains from Highlij Polished Furniture. — Put 
6 drops of spirits of nitre in 1 tablespoon of water; dip a camel's hair 
brush in this, and touch the stain gently; rub the place immediately 
with a sponge wet in cold water, or the nitre will make a spot. 

To remove ink stains from futij unpainted, icood, as tables, 
benches, etc., rub the spots with Lemon juice; then wash off with 
warm water. Strong vinegar may be used instead of the lemon 
juice. Either citric, tartaric or oxalic acid will remove the stains. 
Wash off afterwards with some alkali, like soda and water. 

For scr(dc]ies on furniture rub them with a woolen rag dipped 
in boiled linseed oil; the article must then be varnished, with shellac 
dissolved in alcohol. Or, camphorated oil rubbed briskly on 
scratched articles restor'es the color and polish and leaves them 
smooth and glossy. It should be rubbed on lightly and quickly with 
a piece of flannel. 



FURNITURE 727 

Sci'atchcs in varnisJt will entirely disappear, it is said, if a coarse 
cloth that has been well saturated with linseed oil is laid over them; 
this simple remedy will be invaluable to those who have charge of 
carriages, highly polished furniture, etc. 

To Take Bruises out of Furniture. — If they are small, keep the 
j)lace wet with warm water, and hold a red hot iron near it; the 
wood will soon swell and the dent will be gone. If larger, first wet 
the spot with warm water, and then lay on brown paper, which has 
been soaked in warm water and folded into 5 or 6 thicknesses; lay a 
warm, but not hot, flat-iron on this till the moisture evaporates. 
Repeat if necessary; 2 or 8 repetitions will bring the dent or bruise 
to a level. 

Drawers wliich draw out hard can bo made to move more 
easily if the spot where they press is rubbed over with a little 
hard soap. 

Chips J)roken off of any of the furniture in the house should 
be saved, and fastened on again with a little glue; liquid glue -can be 
used. 

Worm-eaten Furniture. — This may be varnished with copal or 
white carriage varnish; go all over the wood with it; apply two coats 
so that the interstices are well filled with it. 

A furniture fitting may be made as follows: Take ^ pint of 
flour, 1 gallon plaster of paris, ^ oz prepared chalk, ^ oz. pulverized 
pumice stone; mix all together; add | gill Japan dryer and 1 quart 
boiled oil. 

Anij insects (dtaclxing furniture may be killed by saturating it 
with benzine. 

Baths should be cleaned about once a fortnight. If neglected, 
they are apt to become dark colored. Rub them with wet flannel 
dipped in salt, which will keep them in good condition. Keep the 
brass faucets brightly polished. 

Pianos. — With these, moths and moisture are the two great ene- 
mies which must be guarded against. If moths are found, saturate 
the infected parts ai once with benzine. As a preventive, use some 
strongly odoriferous pre^Daration like oil of cedar. (See our article- 
on " Insect Pests.") To guard against dam^jness do not stand a pi- 
ano on a stone floor nor against an outside wall if it can be avoided. 
If wires accumulate rust, as frecjuently happens, the dampness comes 
either from the general atmosxDhere of the room, or from the floor. 
The latter can be prevented by covering the floor beneath the piano 
with waterproof paper, or use ordinary brown paper coated on both 
sides with linseed oil or varnish, laying it under the carpet. To re- 
move rust from the wires, rub them lengthwijse with a piece of 
chamois leather with emery flour spread on it; afterwards remove 
every particle of the powder with a clean leather. 

Dust a piano regularly, carefully and thoroughly. Use a pair 
of bellows to blow out the dust undei' the M'ires. Dust otf the pol- 
ished surface lightly with an old, soft, silk handkerchief, or canton 
flannel. 



728 FURNITUKE 

Expose the ivory keys to the direct rays of the sun as often as 
possible, as that bleaches them and prevents their turning yellow. 
Keep the instrument closed in damp weather and at night. 

To remove finger marks, ])reatli on them and wipe them off 
lightly and quickly with chamois skin. » 

Be cautious about using jiiano polishes. When a^Dplied, use but 
little, and rub it oiY well with soft woolen cloth. Ordinarily, clean, 
when the piano needs it. with a little lukewarm water, and rub dry 
with an oiled chamois skin, doing but little at a time. Rub bruises 
with a little pumice stone. 

For the care of the ivory piano keys, see " Ivory." 

Furniture Polishes. — There are a great many recipes for these; 
we give a few of the best of them. (1) Take equal parts of linseed 
oik turpentine, and either vinegar or alcohol; mix. Rub in well, and 
polish with a piece of chamois leather. This is cheap, useful, and 
excellent for dingy furniture. (2) Take equal parts of linseed oil, 
spirits of wine and shellac varnish; mix. This is excellent. (8) 
Boiled linseed oil rubbed well into the wood with a cloth is a very 
good substitute for furniture iwlish. (4) Kerosene oil applied to 
ordinary furniture and then rubbed well with soft flannel or chamois 
skin freshens it nicely. (5) A French Polish. — Take ^ oz. shellac, 
I oz. gum lac, ^ oz. gum sandarac, 1 pint spirits of wine; put all to- 
gether in a stone bottle; shake frequently until the gums are all dis- 
solved, and it is ready for use. 

Piano Polish. — Take an 8 oz. bottle and fill it a little over |- full 
of turx3entiiie; add 1 tablespoon of alcohol and ^ teaspoon of rotten- 
stone; then fill up the bottle with sweet oil. Shake well before us- 
ing. Apply with a -cheesecloth; then rub well M'ith a clean cloth; 
lastly with a cloth with barely a trace (no more) of alcohol on it; too 
much alcohol will make the surface streaked. Rub lightly at first, 
then harder, and the longer you rub the finer the finish. (Used by 
the best piano dealers. ) 

French Polish Reviver. — Mix -| gill vinegar, 1 gill spirits of 
wine, 1 drachm linseed oil. 

Violins. — To clean: (1) Use soap and water, but don't let it run 
through the "8" holes. Clean the interior with drij rice. Do not 
use spirits. (2) Use ordinary paraffine oil; slightly saturate a rag 
of soft silk, and wash the violin with it. The effect is almost magi- 
cal; the paraffine dissolves the crust of dirt and resin, and cleans the 
varnish without injury. When clean, rub with linseed oil. Spirits 
of wine removes the old resin, but often takes the varnish with it. 
For the inside, steep a handful of rice in a solution of water and 
sugar for 5 minutes; strain off, and nearly dry the rice — or until it is 
barely sticky; put it in at the sound holes, and shake. It will pick 
up all dirt; then turn it out. 

Violin Bows. — Wipe carefully with a flannel moistened in a so- 
lution of borax and water. Or use the best yellow soap, then wipe 
with clear water on flannel, and dry with a linen cloth. 



FURNITURE 729 

HINTS ABOUT WOOD. 

For an oak stain for new wood mix burnt umber and raw sien- 
na in a saucer; have some boiled linseed oil in another dish, and dip 
a flannel rag in the oil, then in the first mixture, and rub it on the 
wood; the next day rub it over with clean oil. 

A red stain for chairs, bedsteads, etc., is obtained by using ar- 
chil, cold. To improve it, add a second coat, and, when nearly dry, 
brush it over with a hot solution of pearlash in water. 

Genuine oak may he darJcened by applying strong liquid am- 
monia with a rag or brush. The color deepens at once and does not 
fade. It gives the apijearance of age. The shade may be varied by 
applying one or more coats. Considerable difference is made by aj)- 
plying oil on any of these stained woods, as it helps to bring out the 
color and beauty of the grain. In Germany cabinet makers use 
strong coffee to darken oak. 

For an ocdc stain take 2 oz. of pearlash, 2 oz. American potash, 
and 1 quart of water; bottle and it is always ready for use. If the 
color is too deep add more water. 

For a rosetcood stain take 1 pint of water, and dissolve in it 
about 5 cents worth of logwood; add pulverized alum, a little at a 
time, till the solution is dark brown. Apply this to the article to be 
stained, and when dry apply a coat of oil or varnish if preferred. 

For a ivalnut stain: (1) Dissolve in 5 quarts of hot water, 3 oz. 
of manganate of potash and 3 oz. of sulphate of manganese. Apply 
to the wood with a brush, and repeat several times. Or, (2) take ^ 
oz. bichromate of potash, 1^ oz. washing soda, 2| oz. Vandyke brown, 
1 quart water; boil 10 minutes. Apply either hot or cold with a 
brush. 

For a niahoyany stain boil -g lb. madder and 2 oz. logwood chips 
in 1 gallon of water, and brush well over while hot. When dry, go 
over with joearlash solution, 2 drachms to the quart. By using it 
strong or weak the color can be varied at pleasure. 

For an ebony stain infuse gall nuts in vinegar in which rusty 
nails have been soaked; rub the wood with the infusion; dry, polish, 
and burnish. Or stain first with a hot satu- 
rated solution of logwood, containing a little 
alum; when dry, brush over with common 
writing ink. 

To Ebonize Wood. — Take 1 lb. logwood 
chips and 3 pints water; boil to 1 pint; apply 
hot to any close grained wood; let dry and 
give another coat; let it dry slowly and then 
sandpaper; mix 1 gill of vinegar with 3 table- ^^^^^ ^^ ebony. 

spoons of iron or steel filings; let stand 5 or 10 

hours and brush on the wood; let it dry and give another coat of the 
first; this sends the vinegar deeper, and makes a denser black. Then 
sandpaper smooth, and polish. 

Ebony is the heart=wood of a species of tree found in the tropics. It is very 
hard and takes a beautiful polish, but is too brittle to use alone for furniture and 
it is, therefore, used mainly for veneering and inlaying. 




730 FURNITURE 

To Fill Cracks, Nciil Holes, Etc. — (1) Take some sawdust of 
the same kind of wood you wish to patch, and soak it 7 or 8 days in 
water; then if boiled for a while it will become pulpy, when it should 
be put in a cloth and the water squeezed out. Mix some of this in 
thin glue, and press it into the cracks or holes. If neatly done, it 
will hardly show when dry and finished off. (2) A cement made by 
melting beeswax, resin, and shellac together is often used for this 
purpose. (3) Powdered whiting mixed with painter's drying oil is 
an excellent filler for pores, but first color it to match the wood it is 
to be used on. 

To Harden Wood. — Boil it in olive oil 8 or 10 minutes. 

French Method of Polishing. — First polish the wood with a 
piece of fine pumice stone and water, rubbing the way of the grain; 
finish with boiled linseed oil and fine tripoli on fiannel. The polish 
produced is superior, but a good deal of patience is required. 

To Render Wood Fireproof. — (1) Soak it 4 or 5 days (cover- 
ing every part) in a strong solution of alum and sulphate of cop- 
per. (2) Whitewashing it 2 or 3 times renders it partially fireproof. 

To Polish Varnish. — Wrap 3 or 4 thicknesses of flannel over a 
cork, dip it in a paste of fine tripoli and water, and polish it on the 
varnish. Rub only long enough to make a smooth surface, without 
over=doing it. Wipe off a spot with a sponge to see if it is suffi- 
ciently polished; when satisfactory, finish it with mutton suet, fine 
flour, and the bare fingers; a beautiful polish results. 

NAILS AND SCREWS.— These may be easily forced into hard 
wood if they are first soaped; or cover them with grease or oil. 

To fill Jtoles of nails, screaks, etc., make a thick paste of glue 
and fine sawdust; pound this into the hole and let dry; it will be as 
good as new. Or, for a ready filling, use putty. 

Nails and screws ivhich are rusted into wood so that it seems 
impossible to start them should have a little kerosene poured over 
them; after soaking a short time the rust will frequently give way. 
Nuts and bolts very badly rusted may often be started the same way. 
A red hot poker or iron jM'essed on the head of a rusty screw for 3 or 
4 minutes will often start it so that it will come out easily. 

Screws for machinery, if they are dipped in a paste of graphite 
and oil before screwing them in, will not rust in, and can be easily 
removed even after the lapse of years. 

TO DEADEN SOUND OR NOISE.— A simple device to deaden 
the sound of hammering or pounding would often be a great relief. 
There are several ways. (1) Put rubber cushions under the legs of 
the work bench; jiounding on it will then be hardly heard in the 
room below. (2) Take kegs, put in a few inches of sand or sawdust, 
then put in a board or block on which rest each leg of the bench, and 
then fill the kegs around the legs with sand or sawdust. This will 



IVORY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. 731 

prevent both noise and vibration, so that an anvil can be pounded on 
in an ordinary dwelling house, and hardly disturb the inhabitants. 



&jj& 



IVORY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. 

AMBER. 

O mend amber, smear the broken jDart with linseed oil, heat 

the fracture carefully over a gas or alcohol flame, protecting 

the other parts from the heat, and when sufficiently soft and 

adhesive press the edges together. To polish use whiting 

and water first, and finish with olive oil on a flannel cloth. 

Polish it a little at a time at intervals, or it will be apt to fly to pieces 

with the electricity generated. Amber may be improved by boiling 

it in rape oil for 24 hours. 

BONE AND IVORY. — To clean these rub them with a paste made 
of whiting and spirits of turpentine. Or to remove stains rub 
them with powdered pumice stone and soaj); then polish with dry 
whiting. Soap or bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) and tepid water 
may be used to clean ivory, but dry it well afterwards; if the water 
gives the article a yellowish look dry it in a warm ijlace. 

To Whiten Tvoru.— {l) To bleach out yellowed ivory handled 
knives and foi'ks cover them with a coating of wdiiting moistened 
with lemon juice; leave it on 8 or 10 hours, then rinse in cold water 
and polish, first with lemon juice and then with a soft cloth. It will 
bleach them. (2) When ivory ornaments get yellow or dusky look- 
ing, wash them well in soap and water, using a small brush to clean 
the carvings, and place them while wet in bright sunshine; wet them 
2 or 3 times a day for several days with soapy water, still keeping 
them in the sun; then wash them again and they will be beautifully 
white. (3) Mix a tablespoon of oxalic acid in | pint boiling water; 
then wet the bone or ivory article and then apply the dilute acid 
with a stiff brush; then rinse well, and dry in a cloth before the fire, 
but do not hold it too close. (4) Yellowed ivory may be whitened 
by applying with a stiff brush a solution of 1 oz. nitric acid in 10 oz. 
soft water; then rinse thoroughly and dry as above. 

To Remove luli Stains from. Ivory. — Apply repeatedly a solu- 
tion of quadrozalate of potassa in water. Get it at a drug store. Or 
use oxalic acid. 

To Bleach Bones.— {1) Soak them for a few days in a solution 
of 4 parts water to 1 part fresh chloride of lime; then take out, wash, 
and dry in the open air. (2) Boil thom in a mixture of water, un- 
slacked lime and bran, until wdiite and free from fatty substances. 

To Polish Bone or Ivory.— (1) Rub them first with fine glass 
paper, then with a wet linen cloth dipped in powdered pumice stone, 
and then with a cloth wet in soapsuds and dipped in whiting: (2) 
Rubbing spotted or yellowed ivory with fine emery paper, and then 
repolishing with pumice stone and whiting, leaves it white and clean. 



732 IVORY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. 

To remove iJie disagreeable odor and fatty emanations of bone 
and ivory, place them in a glass jar, raised a little above the bottom 
by resting them on strips of zinc, and cover them with turpentine; 
expose to the sun and leave in 3 or 4 days, or longer if in the shade. 
They will be beautifully bleached. 

To Stain Ivory. — For black, immerse it frequently in common 
black ink. Or, boil for some time in a strained decoction of log- 
wood; then steep in a solution of red acetate of iron. For blue, im- 
merse it in a dilute solution of sulphate of indigo, partly saturated 
with potash. For green, boil it in a solution of verdigris in vinegar 
until dark enough. 

To Silver Ivorij. — Immerse a small piece in a weak solution of 
nitrate of silver, and leave it till the solution gives it a deep yellow' 
color; then take out, immerse in a tumbler of clear water, and ex- 
pose, while in the water, to the rays of the sun; in about 3 hours it 
changes to a black color, but on being rubbed becomes a brilliant 
silver. 

To 3Iake Ivorij Flexible. — Ivory immersed in a solution of pure 
phosphoric acid, until it partially loses its opacity, and then washed 
in cold soft water and dried, becomes very flexible; if long exposed 
to dry air it loses its flexibility, but by immersion in hot water it can 
be restored. 

To Soften Ivory. — Slice ^ lb. of mandrake, and put it into ^ 
pint of the best vinegar; put the ivory in this and let it stand in a 
warm place 48 hours; it may then be bent into any shape. 

Substifnte for Ivory or Horn. — Make a thick paste of starch 
and a little water, and heat it to 212° to 265° F., when it becomes an 
elastic, transparent mass, easily dried and worked into any form 
desired. 

Artificial Ivory. — This may be made by mixing isinglass and 
brandy into a paste, with powdered egg shell very finely ground; 
give it any desired color, oil the mold, and pour it in warm; leave 
the paste in the mold till dry; it will strongly resemble ivory. 

Ivory Piano Keys. — These may be cleaned with a damp cloth 
dipped in whiting; or use si^irits of turpentine and whiting mixed; 
then polish with a dry cloth. If they turn yellow, leave the lid open 
and expose them to the sunshine, wetting them with soapy water as 
we explain for bleaching ivory. They turn yellow less when much 
exposed to the light and air. Or, whiten them with lemon juice, 
oxalic or nitric acid in the manner explained for whitening ivory. 

IVORINE. — This can be cleaned as directed for celluloid. Its 
general care is much like ivory. 

CELLULOID. — This cracks easily when very cold; wdien jDut in 
hot water it becomes soft and pliable. To clean it (1) rub with spir- 
its of turpentine and whiting mixed. (2) Use tripoli or pumice 
stone on woolen cloths. (3) Use warm water and hand sapolio 
(common sapolio is too coarse). 



IVORY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. 733 

HORN. — Polish it with rottenstone and oil; finish it with dry 
flour on a linen rag. 

To Polisit a Bullock'' s Horns. — First scrape them with a glass or 
steel scraper; then rub them with cloth wet with water and dipped 
in powdered pumice stone, until a smooth surface is obtained; then 
polish with rottenstone and linseed oil; finish with dry flour and a 
clean linen rag. The more they are rubbed with the rottenstone and 
oil the better the polish. 

While horn hiillons may be made to imitate mother of pearl by 
being boiled in a saturated solution of sugar of lead, and then laid 
in v^ery dilute hydrochloric acid. 

To Soflcii Horn. — To 1 lb. of wood ashes add 2 lbs. of quick- 
lime; put them into 1 quart of water; let the whole boil till reduced 
to ^; then dip in a feather, and if, on drawing it out, the plume 
should come off, it is boiled enough; if not, boil a little longer. When 
it is .settled, filter it off, and in the liquor thus strained put in shav- 
ings of horn. Let them soak for 3 days, and, first well anointing your 
hands with oil, work the whole into a mass. Horn thus softened 
can be molded into any desired shape. 

To Slain Horn. — For black, use nitrate of silver solution, and 
expose to the sunlight. For hlnc, stain green, and then steep for a 
short time in a weak solution of sulphate of indigo, containing a lit- 
tle cream of tartar. For green, steep in a solution of 2 parts verdi- 
gris, and 1 of sal ammoniac. For red, soak in very dilute nitric acid 
for a few minutes, then apply a strong infusion of cochineal in aqua 
ammonia. For ijelloH', steep in a solution of lead acetate, and then, 
after drying, in a solution of bichromate of potash. 

TORTOISESHELL. — This is best polished with rouge, on a linen 
rag; finish by 2)olishing with the hand. Tortoiseshell combs should 
always be rubbed with the hand after they are taken from the hair; 
they will not then lose their polish. They can be washed with am- 
monia and water, like other combs, to clean them. 

MARINE SHELLS — To polish, first clean by rubbing with 
a rag dipped in hydnx-hhn-ic acid, till the outer skin is removed; then 
wash in warm water, dry in hot sawdust, and polish with chamois 
leather. Shells which have no natural polished surface may either 
be varnished, or rubbed with tripoli powder and turpentine on 
wash leather; then with fine tripoli alone; then with a little 6live oil; 
bring up the surface lastly with chamois leather as before. 

To Faslen Shells on Wood or Pasteboard. — Melt common 
resin and stir in about twice as much brick dust; use it like sealing 
wax Or, use very thick gum water, in which finely=powdered whit- 
ing is stirred until it is thick. 

MOTHER OF PEARL.— To polish, go over it with finely^-pow- 
dered pumice stone, with which polish it very smooth; then apply 
putty powder and water with a rubber, which will produce a fine 
gloss and a good color. To clean 7not tier -of- pearl wash it with whit- 
ing and water; soap destroys its brilliancy. 



734 IVORY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. 

JAPANNED WARE.— Clean it when possible by rubbing with 
silk or flannel alone, without even water. Never leave any water in a 
japanned teapot when through with it. If a japanned article gets 
dirty, rub it with a sponge wet in lukewarm water and soap, but used 
sparingly. If it looks smeary, dust on some dry flour, and rub it 
with the hand, a flannel, or a soft leather. If it gets marked, rub it 
M'ith a woolen cloth and a little sweet oil, or whiting and oil. Do 
not pour Jiof water on japanned ware, as it will make it crack and 
peel otf. When scratched (if the scratch is not so deep as to go 
clear though the varnished surface) apply sweet oil and rub with 
the hand alone — that is the way the polish is first produced, ami will 
restore it. 

Japanning f 07- Old Trays. — First clean the old trays thoroughly 
with soap and water and a little rottenstone; then dry them by wip- 
ing and exposure to the fire; next mix good copal varnish with 
bronze powder, and aj^ply with a brush to the denuded parts; then 
set the trays in an oven at a heat of 212° to 800°, until the varnish 
is dry. Two coats will make old trays equal to new. 

Moofisli Trai/s. — If not very dirty clean them by rubbing a 
little lemon juice over them. If vcrij dirty j)ut into hot water with 
a little soda and soap, and scrub clean with a soft brush; then lift out 
and pour on boiling water, and let them soak in this a little while; 
then dry carefully with a soft cloth, and rub with a very little olive 
oil. 

PLASTER CASTS. — To Clean. — Busts and statuettes may be 
cleaned by dipping them into a thick liquid starch; or apply a thin 
solution with a brush, covering every part. Let it dry 3 or 4 days 
and carefully x>eel otf the starch — the dirt will come with it. 

Plaster Casts may he PolisJted: (1) By coating them with 
white wax, and placing them before the fire until the wax is ab- 
sorbed; a considerable ijolish can then be obtained by friction. (2) 
With a camel's hair pencil lay skimmed milk on the plaster till it 
will absorb no more. Shake or blow off any that remains on the 
surface, and lay the figure in a place perfectly free from dust; when 
dry it will look like polished marble. If the milk is not jjerfectly 
skimmed it will not answer the purpose. (8) Prepare a strong solu- 
tion of alum water, dip in the figures, and they will look very much 
like (dabctster when tlry. (4) An old ivory tone can be imparted 
by diluting some orange shellac with a little alcohol, and applying 
several thin coats with a brush. (5) Plaster casts can be brushed 
over with graiohite (a brilliant black lead) and they will then re- 
semble genuine bronze very closely. 

A V am is} I for Plaster of Paris Cassis. — Take | oz. white soap, 
I oz. white wax, and 1 quart water; boil them together for a short 
time in a clean vessel; api)ly when cold with a soft brush. It does 
not sink in and it readily dries. Lightly rubbing afterwards w^ith a 
soft silk handkerchief improves it. 

To Color Plaster Casts of BraeJ.-ets, etc., LiJ:e Or?/>-.— Saturate 
the cast with oil, and size it twice; then, in a saucer, rub down as- 
phaltum with water till it is liquid, adding a few drops of spirits of 



IVORY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. 735 

wine to soften it, lay this on with a soft brush so as to imitate the 
graining of oak. When dry, varnish it. After applying 2 coats of 
good copal varnish it will last for years, and can be cleaned by wuish- 
ing with soap and water. 

Piaster of paris mixed icith vinegar instead of water will not 
harden for 20 or 30 minutes, instead of hardening at once as it does 
when mixed with water; the mass will be like putty, and can be 
handled and molded easily. 

ALABASTER — This may be cleaned with strong soap and 
water. If too much discolored make a paste of quicklime and water, 
cover the article with it, and leave it for 1 day; then wash otf with 
soap and water, but apply hard rubbing to all stains. Or, having 
washed off all dirt and grease, wash with dilute muriatic acid. 

BROWNSTONE. — Muriatic acid is used by masons to take out 
stains, and will remove most of them. Strong soda will often take 
out most of an oil stain; then rub with sandpaper. The green for- 
mation which sometimes troubles housekeepers in the cities can be 
removed by using a solution of 1 part carbolic acid to 8 i)arts of 
warm water. 

JASPER OR PORPHYRY — To clean it, mix up a quantity of the 
strongest soap lees with quicklime to the consistency of milk, and 
lay it on the stone for 24 hours; then wash off and it will appear 
like new. It may be improved by afterwards rubbing with fine putty 
powder and olive oil. 

MARBLE. — To wash marble use a soft cloth or chamois skin, 
and warm water; if it is dirty, add some ammonia to the water. Do 
not use soap on marble. Dry at once with soft flannel or chamois 
skin. For marble wash basins, sink-Jixtures, etc., use salt; it re- 
moves incrustations and deposits, and leaves the marble clean. Dust 
marble with a feather duster. 

To Clean Stcdned Marble. — (1) For light stains lemon juice 
will often be efPectual, or use javelle water; then rinse clean. (2) 
Take 2 parts of soda, 1 part pumice stone, and one jmrt finely pow- 
dered chalk; sift these through a fine sieve, and mix them into a 
paste with water. Rub this well over the marble with flannel, and 
the stains will be removed; then wash with ammonia and water and 
it will leave a beautiful polish. (3) Mix 1 part bluing and 2 parts 
whiting (both powdered) and -| lb. soft soap; bring to a boil, and 
while hot apply to the stained marble, using a soft cloth; leave on 
till dry; then wash otf with hot water and soap and a little salts of 
lemon added; rub dry with flannel, and the marble will look like new. 

The above preparations will take ofP surface stains, but if the 
stains have gone deeper and formed chemical combinations with the 
marble it may be necessary to grind it down to a fresh surface and 
repolish. 

For black marble, spirits of turpentine may be used. 
If grey marble hearths are disfigured with spots rub them with 
linseed oil. 



736 IVOKY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. 

Spots from SnlpJinr and Phosphorous on mai'ble, caused by 
lucifer inatt-hes, can be extracted with carbon bisulphide, which can 
be bought at any drug store. 

Ink Stains or Iron Mold may be removed from marl)le as fol- 
lows: (1) Take \ oz. butter of antimony and 1 oz. oxalic acid; dis- 
solve in 1 pint rain water; add enough flour to bring the mixture to 
the iDrojjer consistency. Lay it evenly on the stained part with a 
brush; leave a few days, and wash ofp. Repeat if the stain be not 
wholly removed. (2) Iron rust can often be removed with lemon 
juice, or lemon juice and vitrol mixed in ecjuai parts. 

To Remove Grease Spots from MaiMe. — (1) Make a paste of 
powdered pipe clay and fuller's earth; mix with strong soaj) lye; lay a 
thick coating on the marble, and pass a moderately hot flat-iron over 
it lightly until it is dry. Leave a short time, and wash off with clean 
water. Repeat the process if necessary until all grease is removed. 
(2) For oil spots apply either common clay or calcined magnesia, 
saturated with benzine; leave till thoroughly dry, and brush off. (3) 
Mix caustic soda or potash and quicklime, and apply. 

To Clean Smoke from Marble. — (1) Mix chloride of lime and 
water to a thin paste, and apply it with a brush to the smoky place; 
leave it one or two moments, and wash off with hot soapsuds. (2) 
Use the first recipe given for removing grease spots. (3) Rub the 
smoky place quickly and vigorously with a flannel dipi^ed in strong 
ammonia; then take hot soapsuds and wash it ofp. (4) For the 
smoke stains from bituminous coal or kindling wood, mix whiting 
and washing soda, and moisten them with barely water enough to 
make a paste; rub the spots with flannel dipped in this, and then 
leave it on for several hours; then rub ofF and repeat if necessary. 
When the spots are gone wash with clean soapsuds, wipe dry, and 
polish with a chamois skin or flannel. 

Acids on 3Iarhle. — Marble being composed of carbonate of lime 
(and so being of an alkaline nature) any strong acid spilled on it will 
attack it actively, and if the action is not checked at once will 
roughen the surface. The prompt application of ammonia, soda, or 
other alkali will neutralize the acid and stop its action, or if these are 
not at hand apply water freely to dilute the acid. If the surface is 
roughened, nothing but rej)olishing will remove it. For the above 
reason any strong acid should be used very cautiously about marble. 

Sci-atclies on marble which make it look disfigured, will usually 
disappear if they are rubbed hard with wet whiting; then wash and 
wipe dry. 

A so)-t of scnm is often noticed in marble wash basins. Rub- 
bing with salt will take it all off readily, and leave the basin clean 
and bright. 

To Polish Marble. — (1) Grind it down with fine sand and 
water, using a fine sandstone; then wrap a piece of felt around a flat 
stone or iron, dip it in fine emery powder, and polish out all 
scratches; finish with putty powder and flannel rags. (2) If in 
removing stains the polish of marble is deadened, repolish with oxide 



IVORY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. 737 

of tin and water, applied with a cloth; or rub with chalk wet with 
water to give a gloss. 

Marble Staines. — (1) Dust these carefully every day with a fea- 
ther duster; in summer cover them with gauze. If they become Hy- 
si^ecked, wipe them otf with alcohol, but soap and warm water should 
not be used. Improper washing often yellows fine statues. Do not 
handle them with the bare hand as the oil in the hand discolors 
them. If proi)erly cared for they will not need washing more than 2 
or 3 times a year; then use pure cold water and a painter's brush. 
(2) Care must be taken not to scratch polished marble; it can be 
washed carefully with a brush and warm water and ammonia; then 
rinse with clear, cold water, and wi^De dry. Unpolished marble can 
be carefully washed with "Sapolio." 

Marble busts which are soiled should never be washed with soap 
— that injures them; use instead very loealc muriatic acid, in cold 
water. 

To prevent statues, busts, etc., from marring any furniture they 
rest on, cut a j)iece of plush, velvet, or silk, the same shape, but a lit- 
tle smaller than the statue or bust, and put that under it. It will 
prevent scratching but will not show. 

Marble Ornaments. — These should never be cleaned with soap 
and water. A strong solution of borax will often clean them when 
slightly discolored. If badly stained or discolored they can be re- 
stored by using a paste made of 2 parts common washing soda, and 1 
part each of powdered chalk and powdered pumice stone. 

Artificial Marble. — This is made with plaster of paris, ground 
glass, and milk, which, when thoroughly dried, can be rubbed smooth 
with sandpaper, and then polislied with emery and oil. 

Mai-ble maji easilij be colored beautiful tints. A solution of ni- 
trate of silver gives a deep color. Nitro muriate of gold gives a 
beautiful violet j)U)-ple. A solution of verdigris gives a clear green. 
Solutions of dragon's blood give a beautiful red. Orpiment dissolv- 
ed in ammonia gives a yellow. Verdigris, boiled in wax, and applied 
hot, gives a fine emerald. 

SLATE — Some people prefer slate hearths to marble, as they 
are not soiled so easily and are more readily kept clean. They can 
be washed clean with warm water and a flannel cloth. They are im- 
proved by being oiled thoroughly with linseed oil. as they will not 
then show grease. 

SOAPSTONE OR SANDSTONE.— Hearths are often made of 
these. To clean them, first wash with clean water; then take a piece 
of the stone with a fiat face, 3 or 4 inches square, and, having sprink- 
led on i^owdered soapstone or marble, scour the hearth till clean. 

STONE — -(1) To remove grease from stone steps or jja-ssages, 
IDour strong soda and boiling water over the spot, and lay on fuller's 
earth made into a thin paste with boiling water; leave all night. Re- 
peat the process if any grease reuiaius. (2) (rrease may sometimes 
47 



738 IVORY, STONE, RUBBEB, ETC. 

be taken out by using sand and very hot water, with soap and soda, 
and rubbing them on with a hard stone. (3) Same as No. 1, given 
for taking grease from marble. 

To Clean Stone Stej)s, JVindoiV' Sills, Etc. — Wet flannel dipped 
in mason's dust is excellent. Bath-brick is used by many, and is 
good. 

GRINDSTONES. — Wet the stone by dropping on water from a 
pot suspended above it, and stop off the water when not in use. Do 
not let it stand in water when not in use, as that causes soft spots. 
Clean off all greasy tools before sharpening them, as the grease or oil 
destroys the grit. 

TILES. — Wash with clean soft water, soft soap and flannel 
cloths. Have the latter free from grease. Never use a scrubbing 
brush. If the tiles get stained apply a little muriatic acid with a 
clean rag, and then wash thoroughly with clean water. Take off 
grease with some alkali, like pearlash and water. 

Encaustic tiles should be washed once or twice a week with 
skimmed milk; it is much better than soap for them. 

RUBBER. — To Soften Old Rubber. — When rubber rings, such as 
are used on fruit jars, become hard and brittle, restore them by soak- 
ing in a solution of 2 parts water to 1 part ammonia or soda ; soak un- 
til their elasticity is restored, which is from 5 to 30 minutes usually 
Other old soft=rubber articles can be softened the same way. 

Wrinfjin(j''MacMne Rollers. — When the rubber rollers of wring- 
ing-machines become sticky or stained by colored clothes, clean them 
with kerosene, or by running through them a cloth wet with kero- 
sene. 

To Prevent India-ruhber Articles from Becoming Hard and 
C nicking. — Prepare melted paraffine at 212° and i^ut in the articles, 
leaving them from a few seconds to several minutes, according to 
their size; then take out and dry in a hot room at 212° F. 

Rubber hose which has become hard can be softened by dijjping 
it in petroleum; then hang up for 48 hours, letting the oil drij) off; 
repeat 2 or 3 times. 

To Preserve the Elasticity of Indiaruhber. — Wash it about 5 or 
6 times a year with slightly alkaline water, like ammonia and water, 
or soda and water. 

To Cut Rubber. — Use a wet knife. Dipping the instrument 
used in soda or potash lye will aid in piercing or cutting rubljer 
corks. 

Old liard India-rubber may be softened again by letting the va- 
por of carbon bisulphide act upon it; remove from the vapor as soon 
as it becomes soft. 

Faded I'vbber goods can be varnished by diluting black Japan 
varnish with linseed oil until thin enough for the imrj^ose; or use a. 
thin shellac varnish, colored with lamp black for black goods. 




IVORY, STONE, RUBBEE, ETC. 739 

India=eubbee is obtained from the milky juice of 
certain plants found only in tropical climates. The 
trees are tapped, the sap is gathered and when it stands 
for a time a sort of creamy substance rises which is skim- 
med off. Its peculiar properties give it great com- 
mercial value. 

To Mend a Mackintosh. — Get at the store a 
piece of the same material of which the mack- 
intosh is made, and cut out a suitable patch. 
Buy or make some India-rubber cement (we 
give recipe elsewhere) and ai:)ply a little on iNDiA^EUBi^iiR. 

eacth side of the torn part, and also on the 

pajcli; when it bet>ins to feel tacky, bring the edges together, 
adust the patch nicely, and lay on a weight to hold it in positicju. 
Leave for several days until quite hard. 

Mend rubber overshoes, etc. with the rubber cement given 
among the " Cements." 

Mackintoshes can without detriment be carried about in a 
roll or strap, but when not in use they should be opened out so that 
the air can have access to them; if kept rolled up, they will become 
sticky and unpleasant. When one has been wet, spread it out to 
dry, but do not put it near the fire. To remove spots of mud from 
a mackintosh try spirits of wine, though it is not always successful. 

SPONGES — To keep sponges in condition always squeeze them 
dry after use, and never let them stand in soapy water. Clean them 
as follows: (1) When sjDonges get greasy let them dry, and then 
work them with a little turpentine; after a few minutes wash them 
with a little soap and water and a little soda. This will make them 
quite clean, with little trouble; (2) Place the sponge in a basin, 
completely cover it with bran, pour boiling water over it, and cover 
the basin to prevent the steam from escaping. Let it stand till cold, 
and rinse it thoroughly in cold water; wring out all the water, with a 
towel, dry, and it will be clean. (8) When sour, rub fresh lemon 
juice into it thoroughly; then rinse it a number of times in tepid 
water, and it will be sweet and clean. (4) If washed about once a 
week in tepid water containing borax and ammonia, and then dried 
in the open air and sunlight, they will keep clean and fresh. (5) 
Prepare a solution of water and potash permanganate, strengthened 
to a wine color; soak the sponge in this for some time; ^take out, 
squeeze, and next immerse in a solution of 10 i^arts water to 1 part 
muriatic acid, and let soak for some time; then squeeze out the acid 
and wash thoroughly in clean water. Thus treated, even photo- 
graphic sponges can be perfectly cleaned and their color restored. 
(6) Either citric acid or sulphuric acid (about 2_tablespoons to a 
pint of water) will clean sponges nicely. Steep them about 2 hours, 
and then wash clean. (7) Soak in milk 12 or 15 hours; thefi rinse, 
thoroughly in cold water, and dr}'. 

New sponges which are hard and gritty may be cleaned and 
softened for use by first working thoroughly in cold water, then 
boiling in clean water for ^ hour, theii taking out and working in 



740 



IVOKY, STONE, RUBBER, ETC. 



cold water again; and repeat this operation 3 or 4 
grit is gone. Do not boil too long at any time, or 
become tender and rotten. 



times, until the 
the sponge will 



WHALEBONES. — By merely soaking them for a few hours in 
water, and then drying them, bent whalebones can be restored and 
used again. When putting them in the casings it is an excellent 
idea to make them flexible and conform to the figure *by soaking 
them in warm water for a few minutes, which softens them. 

TOBACCO PIPES — A simple and effective method of cleaning 
them is to fit in a thin cork, with a hole cut in the center, and let 
the water from the faucet run through the pipe till it is cleaned. 

ROPE — New rope, if boiled in water 2 or 3 hours, will be cured 
of its annoying stiffness, and made pliable; then hang it up, until 
fully dry, in a warm room, and keep it from kinking while drying. 
This will not weaken it at all. 

It is always conven- 
ient to know how to fasten 
roi^es, and yet few people 
know how to make the 
best knots. We give a 
few. To fasten a rope to 
a pole, use the "fisherman's 
bend," used by sailors. 
To make it, pass the rope 
twice around the pole or 
rod; then take a "half 
hitch " around the long 
part of the rope as at 1; 
then thrust the end under 
the 2 turns, as at 2, 3, and 
last loop the end about the 

long part, as at 4. The turns are clearly shown in Fig. 1. To fasten 
two ends of rope, use the " sheet bend," so called. To make it, form 
a "horse shoe" with one end of the rope, as b b; then pass the other 
roj^e through the loop, or horse-shoe; then around and behind both 
parts of the other rojje; then back under itself, as at 1; see Fig. 2. 
Another good knot is known as the "carrick bend." To make it, form 
one end of a rope into a loop, a a, technically known as a " bight." 
Then put the end of the other rope through the "bight," as at 1; 
around behind the other rope, as at 2; then through in front of 
the otlier end as at 3; then back through the " bight " as shown at 4; 
see Fig. 3. It makes a very strong knot. 




Fig. 1. 
fisherman's bend. 



Fig. 2. Fig. 

sheet bend. cabkick 



3. 
BEND. 




GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWARE, ETC. 741 

GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWARE, ETC. 

WINDOWS. 

.ASH windows when the sun does not shine on them — in 
pleasant weather, but during that part of the day when 
the sun does not strike them is the best time, or choose a 
cloudy but not rainy day. If the sun shines on them 
while being- washed they dry so rapidly that it is almost 
impossible to avoid having them streaked, because they dry partially 
before they can be wiped. Wash the inside first, and then the im- 
perfections can be seen easily from the outside. Use clean rain 
water, and add enough ammonia to make it feel slippery. Get the 
dirt out of the corners with a cloth wrapped over a piece of wood, 
then rinse, and then polish the glass with newspaper, tissue paper or 
chamois skin; tlie two last are best. This is the best way, making 
the glass beautifully clear. Whiting is good to clean windows with; 
so is alcohol, and so is soda. Benzine, with enough calcined magne- 
sia added to make a thick milk, is excellent. . Any of the above are 
better than soap. 

Paint, viortar and wJtifcwash may be taken off of windows 
with sharp hot vinegar; if fresh, cold vinegar will do. Diluted mu- 
riatic acid will cut them also. Soda dissolved in hot water, and ap- 
plied with a flannel, will take off paint well; so will camphene and 
sand — but don't scratch the glass. Ammonia is also used, and a 
mixture of ammonia and turpentine is good. Scrape it with the edge 
of a penny or dime. 

Old puiijj on window frames can be easily removed by first 
passing a red hot iron over it to soften it. Or, apply mixture No. 6 
given for removing dry i^aint on wood. Apply thickly on both sides, 
and leave on 10 or 15 hours. Or, put on soft soap, and leave it on 
sev^eral hours; it will soften the putty enough to cut readily with a 
knife. 

Tar on glass will be cut by the mixture No. 6 given for remov- 
ing dry paint on wood. Or, use 3 parts potash and 1 part unslacked 
lime. 

JJ^hen iriiidotrs hecomc sica)ued, or covered with condensed 
moisture in frosty weather, a very thin coat of glycerine applied on 
both sides will cure it. If rubbed with a flannel dipped in alcohol it 
will keep them free from ice. 

When a window does not close figJdlij it is easily remedied by 
putting some putty along the sill, and some chalk on the sash; then 
close the window as tightly as possible. The chalk will j)revent the 
Ijutty from adhering to the sash, and the putty which squeezes out 
may be scraped away with a knife. This will make it tight. 

JVindoir sills which are stained by flower pots can be cleaned by 
scouring them with fine wood ashes; then rinse thoroughly with cold 
water. 



742 GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWARE, ETC. 

MIRRORS. 

These may be cleaned with aininonia and water as explained for 
windows. Spirits of wine, gin, prepared chalk, whiting and tripoli 
are all nsed, and are all good. A muslin bag containing powdered 
bluing, dusted lightly over the glass while it is damp, and then ix)l- 
islied otf quickly, produces a fine result. So does whiting. Am- 
monia is the best thing. 

Creases on Mirrors. — Never allow a mirror to be heated by 
a stove, nor let the sun shine directly on it — the amalgam will be 
granulated by either, and give the mirror a creased or scratched ap- 
pearance. This is the cause of the checked appearance of their mir- 
rors which sometimes surprises peoxjle, 

To Silver Mirrors. — Spread a sheet of tin foil on a smooth 
table; then rub mercury on it till the 2 metals are incorporated. Lay 
the plate of glass upon it, and load it with weights, which will press 
out the excess of mercury from the tin foil; in 2 or 3 days it will ad- 
here to the glass and convert it into a mirror. About 2 oz. mercury 
are enough to cover 3 square feet of glass. For concave and convex 
mirrors an amalgam is used composed of 2 parts mercury, 1 part tin, 
1 part lead and 1 part bismuth. 

Clean the frames of mirrors as explained for picture frames. 

GLASSWARE. 

To Anneal Glass. — Dishes, tumblers, and other glass articles, 
may be annealed so that they will not readily break from sudden 
changes of temperature, etc., thus: Put them in cold salt water, set on 
the stove and bring to a boil; let boil a short time, take off the stove, 
and allow them to cool slowly. 

To Wash Glassware. — The best thing to use is soft water, am- 
monia, and a chamois skin. Wash it with the chamois skin, then 
rinse it, wring it dry, and wijje with the same skin. It leaves no 
lint, and the glass will be beautifully bright. Tissue paper is the 
next best thing to wipe glass with. Alcohol, soda, borax, powdered 
chalk and whiting are all used and work well, but ammonia is best. 
Don't use soap — the other things are better. 

Stains on Glass. — Stains of tea, lime and other things can be 
taken off of glass by rubbing with a flannel cloth dampened in am- 
monia and dipped in whiting. Hydrochloric acid will take off anij 
stains from glass, and nothing else is so effective. Take a basin and 
put in 1 part acid and 4 parts water, and let the article soak in it a 
few minutes (if very dirty a little longer) and on taking out it will 
only need rinsing and drying. Be careful not to drop the undiluted 
acid on the clothes or hands. 

For jxiint stains moisten with washing soda dissolved in warm 
water; let soak a little while, and wash off. See also "Windows" and 
" Paint." 

Pitch and tar may be cut from glass with a little sulphuric acid. 

To clean (jlass and porcelain vessels from the greatest variety of 

organic substances, a mixture of sulphuric acid and bicliromate of 



GLASS, CHINA, EAETHENWAEE, ETC. 743 

potash is superior to ether, benzine, or anything else. This will also 
clean iDliotographic glass plates when other things fail. 

To clean parian cliiiui mix together in boiling water 1 part whit- 
ing and 3 parts potash, making it into a thick paste; apply to the 
china with a soft brush, leave on 8 or 4 hours, and wash off with a 
sponge and warm water. 

Clihui, mxijolica and carfhenwa.re, which is disfigured by little 
cracks and checks, may be restored by boiling them in milk. 

Marking one's name on ivliiie dishes, etc., can be done with a 
pen and common black ink, and it will be some time before it washes 
off. 

China, and Porcelain. — If china or porcelain is discolored with 
iron, muriatic acid will clean it; then rinse ofp with w^ater. 

Porcelain or china which is tea stained or discolored, by careless 
washing, can be cleaned by rubbing with a flannel cloth moistened 
with ammonia and dipped in whiting. Or rub with a damp cloth 
dipped in salt. 

Cups discolored brown by using them for baking, can be cleaned 
with whiting and flannel as above. Or rub with scouring sand or 
salt. 

Carafes and Decanters which have become so discolored inside 
that shot, sand or fine coals will not cleanse them can be filled with 
finely chopped potato skins; let stand 3 or 4 days and the skins will 
ferment; then rinse with water and the glass will be clear. 

A dirty porcelain sance-pan may be cleaned, and all odors of 
fish and onions removed, by filling half full of water, putting in a 
moldy lemon, and boiling for ^ hour. Sal ammoniac boiled an hour 
or so in a sauce=pan will clean it also. 

To remove disagreeable odors from porcelain or china see what 
we recommend for glass bottles. 

Porcelain sauce-pans may be cleaned by filling them half full of 
water, putting in some borax, and boiling; if any stains are left scour 
with soap and borax on a cloth; or use whiting, scouring sand, sapo- 
lio or brick dust. Repeat if necessary. 

A browned porcelain kettle may be nicely cleaned by boiling 
peeled potatoes in it. If anything becomes burned onto such a kettle, 
put in wood ashes and water and boil \ hour; then scour with brick 
dust or sand; repeat if necessary. 

Preserve jars can be cleaned by letting water containing soda or 
ammonia soak in them. Stains may be removed as advised for vine- 
gar cruets and decanters. 

Tumblers. — Do not put tumblers, which have contained milk, di- 
rectly into hot water, as it makes the milk adhere to the glass so 
that it is difficult to remove; rinse them first in tepid water. 

Glass Globes, to Clean. — Rub them inside with a damp cloth, 
dipped in powdered pumice stone; rinse and dry with a chamois skin. 
Borax is also used, but is not so good. 



744 GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWARE, ETC. 

To Clean Vincijav (ind Sauce Cruets. — Proceed as advised for 
decanters — 8d method. 

To Frost Glass.— Tnke equal parts of Epsom salts and sour beer 
and boil them together; paint this on the glass while hot. It can be 
washed otf readily when desired. 

ImHaiion of Ground Glass. — Prepare a hot saturated solution of 
Epsom salts, Glauber's salts, or sal ammoniac. Apply either to the 
glass with a brush while hot, and on cooling it will form a beautiful 
and perfect screen. Let the water take up all the salt it will possibly 
dissolve to make the saturated solution. Four sided prisms will be 
formed by the Epsom salts; six sided prisms by the Glauber's salts, 
and threadlike crystals by the sal ammoniac. 

Decanters.— To clean them: (1) Take a handful of tea leaves 
and 1 or 2 tablespoons of vinegar; shake well together, and x^ut into 
any furred glass, shake it about and it will clean it nicely. (2) If 
stained with port wine, put in some crushed egg shells or charcoal, 
and some warm water and pearlash, to which a little fresh slacked 
lime is added. Shake it about till the stains are gone. (3) Soak 
in warm soda and water for hours; then use a brush to scrub the dirt 
out of the cut work outside. Cut a i^otato into sniall dice, put some 
inside,^ with some warm water, and shake till the stains disappear; 
then rinse in cold water and drain until dry. (4) The crust from 
port or other wine may be cut out with a little muriatic acid, diluted 
and left in for some time. 

Incrustafions or Coatings Caused hy Hard Water. — These may 
be removed from a carafe, or any glass, china, or porcelain ware, by 
rinsing it wnth w^ater to which a litte hydrochloric (muriatic) acid is 
added; it cuts the alkaline incrustations so that it easily comes off. 

Bottles, to Clean. — Make a lye by boiling equal quantities of 
soda and quicklime. When cold, put this in the bottles with 
crushed egg shells, small pieces of marble, charcoal or crushed bones, 
and shake. Coarse sand and tacks are sometimes used, but are liable 
to scratch the glass. Afterwards rinse and drain thoroughly, then 
warm, and blow into the bottles with a pair of bellows to dry them. 
They will be as bright as new. Shot are often used, but as the lead 
is liable to stick to the glass it is not as good as the other things rec- 
ommended above. Hot soapsuds is sometimes used in place of the 
lye but does not leave the glass as bright. 

Bottles if oil ij or othericise greasy should not be washed with 
water, but should have some strong alkali, like pearlash, i3ut in them; 
then wdpe them out with tow or cloth on a wire. Diluted nitric or 
sulj)huric acid will also clean oily flasks. 

Bottles soiled with 7'esin, turpentine, or I'csinous varnishes, can 
be washed with a strong alkaline solution, and wiped out with tow or 
cloth on a wire. Or use sulphuric or nitric acid. - 

To Clean a PJiotograpliic "Silver Bottle.^'' — Pour in a strong 
solution of potassium cyanide (a deadly poison), shake a few times, 
pour out, rinse 2 or 8 times with clear water, and the bottle will be 
perfectly clean. 



GLASS, CHINA, EARTHENWARE, ETC. 745 

To remove disagreeable odors, like those from musk or cod= 
liver oil, put in some hot olive oil or sesame; also flaxseed meal, or 
any of the oily seeds, when powdered and mixed with water, answer 
the purpose excellently. Mustard or bitter almonds will remove 
many odors from bottles or glass. 

Bottles which have contained petroleum should be washed with a 
thin warm milk of lime; it forms an emulsion with the petroleum and 
removes every trace of it If washed a second time with the milk of 
lime and a little lime chloride added, even the smell will be com- 
pletely removed. 

In packing hoftles they may be prevented from breaking by 
slipping India rubber bands over them, which keep them from 
touching each other. 

To Remove Glass Stoppers. — (1) Tapping the stopper on a 
piece of wood, first on one side and then the other, will often start it. 
(2) Dip one end of a cloth in hot water and wrap it around the neck 
of the bottle; the heat expands the neck and the stopper can be 
removed, but remove the stopper as soon as the neck expands, and 
before the heat expands the stopper also. (3) Apply oil, water, or 
muriatic acid to the top of the neck around the stopper; then warm 
near the fire for a time. (4) Inverting a bottle for 2 or 3 nights in a 
pan of water deep enough to cover its neck merely, will often succeed 
when other means fail. (5) Put vinegar in a tumbler, insert the 
neck and leave for a while; then apply the hot cloth as above, and it 
will often start. (6) When hot water is not convenient the neck can 
be heated enough to release the stopper by wrai^ping a cord once 
around and " sawing " back and forth. 

Corks. — When corks are too large to go in readily, let them soak 
in hot water until softened a little. They can be made air and water 
tight by keeping them for 5 minutes in melted paraffine, but hold 
them completely under with a screen or other device. 

For a water=tight cement for corks, see the rubber cement given 
among our cements. 

To preserve corks from insects, dip the heads of bottles, after 
being corked, into quicklime, slacked into a iDaste, and let it harden 
on. Petroleum is sometimes used, but is not so good. 

To Remove a Cork that lias been p«s/?e(/ into a Jug. — 
Fill the jug with water. Double a string, insert it in the jug so as 
to fall directly under the cork, pull the cork up to the mouth of the 
jug, hold the string firmly, work in a corkscrew and pull out the cork 
with it. 

To Cut Glass. — A simj^le and easy way to cut glass bottles, 
etc., is to wind cotton twine around them 2 or 3 times, just below 
where they are to be cut in two; then saturate the twine with turpen- 
tine or alcohol, by dropping it on slowly, and then set it on fire. 
When nearly burned out, pour on a little cold water. The glass will 
separate as evenly as if cut with a diamond. Or, make a mark with 
a file where you want to begin the cut, then take a poker or iron with 
the end pointed, heat it red hot, and starting at the file mark, draw it 



746 LAMPS, MATCHES, ETC. 

along the glass; a crack will follow wherever the iron is carried. Old 
bottles may in this way be converted into jelly jars, etc. Window 
glass held under ivater, can be cut with a strong pair of shears, 
although it is not generally known. 

To Pulrcrize Glass. — Heat it red, and at once plunge it into 
cold water; the sudden cooling makes it pulverize more readily. 

Ediihenivare and sioncware before being used, should be put in 
cold water, brought to a boil for a short time, and then taken ofp 
the fire and allowed to cool gradually. If, when the water is boiling, 
some wheat or rye bran is thrown in, it will preserve the glazing so 
that salt and acid will less readily destroy it. 

Crockerij ornamented with gilt bands, flowers, etc., should be 
washed as quickly as convenient, rinsed, and left to drain until dry — 
it should not be wiped. 

Varnish for Earthenware Vessels. — Take equal quantities of 
soda and pulverized glass, mix and dry it over a strong fire; have the 
vessel hot also when it is apj)lied. 

SPECTACLES. — Wipe them with an old silk handkerchief or 
chamois skin, as that will not scratch them. If slightly soiled, 
breathe on the glass and wipe it; if much soiled, wash with ammonia, 
which is the best thing to use. Be careful not to bend the frames, 
as that will alter the focus of the lenses, and the eyes will suffer as a 
result. 



LAMPS, MATCHES, ETC. 

LAMPS. 

LAMP should be kept scrupulously clean. The receiver 
should be emptied of the old oil occasionally and cleaned 
out. The best way is to put in hot soda and water and some 
crushed egg-shells, and shake well; this will clean otf all 
incrustations: then empty it out, and dry it perfectly, for if 
any water remains, the lamp will sputter. When lamps stand for 
hours half filled or less, an oil vapor rises which mingles with the air 
in the upper part of the lamp and forms an explosive gas. For this 
reason a nearly empty lamp should not be lighted. Many of the 
lamp explosions are caused by ignorance and carelessness in this re- 
gard. Fill lamps daily, so that there may be no room in them for 
this explosive gas, and fill them in the daytime, and not at night near 
a lighted lamp. An oil lamp should not be filled quite full, nor 
allowed to burn too low. If the oil has been stored in a cold place 
and the receiver is filled full, as the oil warms it will expand and run 
over. 

Never turn down a light for economy's sake. Nothing is saved, 
as the oil will feed up the wick faster than it is consumed, and it will 
smoke or smell, or both, and become a distinct source of danger, as 




LAMPS, MATCHES, ETC. U1 

the lamp heats rapidly. If a dim light is wanted in a sickroom, it is 
better to set the lam^j in another room, or shade it, than to turn it 
down. When the edge of the flame is orange color, proper combus- 
tion is not taking place. Dirty burners, badly fitting wicks, and 
neglect about filling are the 3 principal things to guard against. 

TJie ivick should fit the burner perfectly, and should neither be 
too thick, too thin nor too narrow; if only a little too wiele 1 or 2 
threads can be pulled out near the selvage edge without harm. 
Wicks should be changed often or they will become clogged and pre- 
vent the free passage of the oil. They can be washed in strong, hot 
soapsuds, adding ammonia to the rinsing water, if it is desired to 
clean and use them again. 

Soaking a wick in vinegar and then drying it thoroughly ])efore 
use, will prevent its smoking. A wick clogged with oil may also be 
cleaned by boiling it in vinegar and water; dry thoroughly before 
using it. 

Wicks steej)ed in a concentrated aqueous solution of tungstate 
of soda, and then dried thoroughly in the oven, will be almost inde- 
structible. 

A wick should be long enough to just touch the bottom of the 
lamp. 

Tlie best ivaij of i rimming a wick is to turn it down to nearly a 
level with the wick tube, and then rub across it with the finger or a 
match; this is better than cutting it with scissors. If the light burns 
unevenly, it is because the wick is trimmed unevenly. Trim the 
wick square across, and any little unevenness not removed by the 
finger can be trimmed ofp with scissors. Be very careful not to let 
the charred part of the wick fall into the burner when trimming it. 

The hitrncrs should be cleaned once a month. Wash them in 
soap and water, and then boil them for a little while in soda and 
water. Some people use for this purpose the water in which beans 
have been boiled, and it answers very well. Then rinse the burners, 
and dry them perfectly, before the wicks are put in. Nickel burners 
may be boiled as well as brass ones. 

Rubbing burners every few days with whiting, or with kerosene 
on a woolen cloth, will clean them well. 

The little air holes should be kept open to secure a good draught 
of air, for a i)lenty of fresh air is essential to a good blaze. Much of 
the trouble with studentdamps, and other similar and costly lamps, is 
that the oil which accumulates in the cup below the wick is not 
emptied out; it should be done every day to secure a clear flame. 

Burn None but the Best Kerosene. — You can test it by pouring 
a little in a saucer; apply a lighted match or taper, and if it does not 
ignite readily it is good. Keep oil in a cool dark place. 

When a lamp is lighted turn it up gradually so as not to heat the 
chimney too suddenly; then turn it as high as it will go with a white 
flame, and without smoking. When a lamp is put out leave the wick 
down below the top of the tube, otherwise the oil will work up the 
wick and run over on the burner and lamp and make them greasy. 



748 LAMPS, MATCHES, ETC. 

Lamp Chimneys and Shades. — If the chimneys are put into cold 
water to which some common table salt is added, then heated oradu- 
ally and well boiled for ^ to 1 hour and then allowed to cool slowly, 
they will CTack less easily and be much niore duraV)le. Keep all 
lamp glasses very bright and clear. Ammonia and water is the best 
thing for washing chimneys — much better than soapsuds which 
makes them look dull; if only slightly soiled, breathe on them and 
then wipe. The steam from the nose of a ra^iidly boiling tea kettle 
cleans them well. A piece of sponge on a Hexible whalebone is as 
good as anything for cleaning the inside of either chimneys or lamps. 

Si)ioked lamp glasses washed until the stains are gone in warm 
soda and water to which a little ammonia is added will look as 
bright as new. Lamp chimneys which have been neglected and be- 
come much spotted and stained may be cleaned thoroughly with 
hydrochloric or sulphuric acid and soda. For wiping chimneys, 
newspaper, tissue paper or chamois skin are much l)etter than cloth. 

To clean (/round </htss sJiades use curd soap, soda and water, 
scrub them with a nail brush, and it will take off all smoke; rinse 
them thoroughly with clean tej^id water and set aside to drain and 
dry, but do not wipe them with anything, nor touch them with the 
hand till dry. Warm them a few minutes by the fire before screwing 
them in place; handle them with a clean cloth or paper. 

After flUinfj and cleaning lamps and chimneys roll up pieces of 
newspaper in the form of cones and set over them; it will keep off 
dust and dirt, and when wanted they will be clean and bright. 

A cement for lamp tops may be made by boiling 8 parts resin 
ajid 1 part of caustic soda, in 5 parts of water. This forms a soap, 
which when mixed with half its" weight of i^laster of paris, sets in 
about ^ hour. It is very adhesive, and not permeable by kerosene — 
it is much better than the plain plaster of paris ordinarily used. 
Or, use melted alum; apply as soon as melted; as soon as cold the 
lamp may be used. 

Substitute for Lamps. — The following ingenious substitute for a 
lamp may be made by any one, and it is especially useful about mag- 
azines or where inflammable materials are kept. Take an oblong 
vial of the clearest and whitest glass, and put into it a piece of phos- 
phorus about the size of a pea. Pour some olive oil, heated to the 
boiling point, upon the phosphorus, filling the vial about Jj full; then 
cork it tightly. To use the light, remove the cork and allow the air 
to enter the vial, and then re-cork it. The empty space in the vial 
M'ill become luminous, the light equaling that of a lamp. When the 
light grows dim, renew it by taking out the cork and admitting a 
fresh supply of air. In winter it may be necessary to heat the vial 
between the hands to increase the fluidity of the oil. This apparatus 
may be used 6 months. 

Smoked Ceilings. — The smoke of a kerosene lamp may be washed 
from a ceiling with a strong solution of soda and water. 

MATCHES. — These should be safely guarded and kept in metal- 
lic boxes out of the way of children and mice; many accidents will 
be prevented thereby. 



METALS AND METAL WARE 740 

Scratcliing Matches. — It is very annoying to have heedless peo- 
ple scratch matches on wood work, and when one mark is made 
others quickly follow, but if the spot is rubbed with a flannel satura- 
ted with any liquid vaseline, people can neither light matches there 
nor scratch the paint, however often they may try; and, singularly 
enough, the petroleum causes the existing marks to soon disappear, 
at least on dark paint. 

CANDLES. — A candle which it is desired to burn all night in a 
sickroom or elsewhere, should have finely powdered salt put on top 
until it reaches the blackened part of the wick; thus treated, even a 
small piece will burn all night, with a mild, steady flame. 

In hloiving out a candle hold it well above the mouth and blow 
it out from below, instead of holding it down in the usual way, and 
blowing it out from above; this will prevent it from smouldering. 

To Clean Candlesticks. — Instead of heating them before the fire 
to melt the grease, pour on boiling water; this will soften it enough 
to be rubbed off with a rag, without danger of melting the solder, or 
doing other injury; then, if china, wash; if plated, polish with plate 
powder. 



METALS AND METAL WARE. 

ETAL8 and metal wares are found in every house, and it is 
important for housekeepers to know the best ways of car- 
ing for them. The following hints are exhaustive, and 
will supply the needs of our readers. 

ALUMINUM. — Kerosene or tripoli, applied while the 
vessels are warm, are about the best things for cleaning aluminum 
cooking utensils. Discolorations of any kind can be removed .by 
putting 4 oz. nitric acid in 1 cpiart of water, and boiling it hard in 
the vessel for ^ hour. This metal is not affected by the sulphur com- 
pounds which blacken silver so much. It does not rust or corrode, 
and it retains its luster in the air, whether moist or dry, for any 
length of time Hot water produces not the slightest effect on it, but 
alkaline solutions act on it, and therefore spoons, forks, etc., can be 
cleaned and whitened with soap; or soap and water made strong with 
soda, or with liquid ammonia, or with a heated solution of potash. 
The strong or caustic alkalies consume it rapidly, but as the mild 
acids, like acetic, malic, citric, or oxalic, which are found in foods, 
do not affect it, it is admirably adapted for making cooking utensils. 
It is without doubt the best metal at present known for that purpose. 
It is acted on slowly by muriatic acid, but sulphuric or nitric acid 
does not affect it, unless the nitric acid is very hot. 

BRASS. — To Clean. — There are a great 'variety of methods for 
cleaning brass; we give some of the best and most convenient meth- 
ods for our readers' use. (1) Rub with strong vinegar; then remove 
the acid by washing with hot water, and rub with dry whiting. (2) 
Mix pulverized rottenstone into a paste with oil of turpentine; rub 




750 METALS AND METAL WARE 

on with a soft leather, leave a few minutes, and wij)e with a soft cloth. 
(8) Dissolve 1 oz. oxalic acid in 1 pint soft water; rub on with a 
piece of flannel, and polish oif with another dry piece. (Use only 
occasionally.) (4) Use the water potatoes have been boiled in (peels 
and all); strain it, and wash the brass in it. (Said to be good.) (5) 
Apply whey or sour milk several times; then scour it with a woolen 
cloth dipi^ed in ashes. (6) jtlub it with rottenstone and oil; finish 
with dry whiting or ammonia. (7) Pour very strong ammonia over 
it; then scrub it thoroughly with a brush; in 5 minutes it should be- 
come as clear, bright and shiny as new metal; then rinse in clear 
water and wipe dry. An excellent way to clean old brass. (8) Use 
salt and vinegar mixed. For greatly discolored brass kettles, first 
scour with ashes and soap; then boil the vinegar and salt in the ket- 
tle; then rub, and rinse thoroughly. 

The great objection made to all the strong acid mixtures used for cleaning 
brass is that they eat away the metal, which is true. It is objected ^o the rotten- 
stone preparations, when used about machinery and instruments, that they work 
into joints, etc., and clog their action. 

To Clean Lacquered Brass. — Lay it in hot, strong soda and 
water, and brush it well over with soajD. Lift it out and lay it as it 
is, all soapy, in a pan, and pour absolutely boiling water on it. Let 
it steep for 1 or 2 minutes, then lift it out and throw it into cold 
water to enable you to handle it; then dry it carefully. It should 
require neither rubbing nor polishing. If the brass is very dirty, 
boil it in the hot soda water. 

To Clean Indian Brass. — Use very fine brick dust, moistened 
with lemon juice. 

For Bfass Inlaid Work. — Mix tripoli and linseed oil; j)olish 
with felt dipped in this mixture. If inlaid in rosewood or ebony use 
a paste of rottenstone, a pinch of starch, sweet oil and oxalic acid, 
mixed with water. 

To Remove Varnish from Brass. — ^Mucli of the brass in use is 
coated with shellac varnish; this protects the brass while it is unim- 
jDaired, l)ut it sometimes gets broken. To remove it, use a cloth wet 
with alcohol; the brass can be cleaned with this, and a fresh coat of 
shellac varnish applied. 

To Color Brass. — A mixture of muriatic acid and alum dis- 
solved in water imparts a golden color to brass articles that are 
steeped in it a few seconds. 

To Frost Brass-work. — Boil the article in caustic potash, rinse 
in clean water, and dip it in nitric acid till all oxide is removed; then 
wash quickly, dry in boxwood sawdust, and lacquer it while warm. 

Lacquer for Brass. — Take of seeddac, dragon's blood, annatto, 
and gamboge, each 2 oz.; saffron, |- oz., spirits of wine, 5 pints. 

To Clean Scale Pans. — Pour sufficient ammonia in the pan to 
cover the bottom, and rub briskly until dry with a handful of dry pine 
sawdust. For very dirty pans, take about 1 drachm potash bichro- 
mate, powder it in a mortar, mix with it two or three times its bulk 



METALS AND METAL WARE 751 

of concentrated sulphuric acid, and add twice as much water. With 
this rub the jjans (having a care for the fingers), rinse well, and 
finish with rottenstone. 

To Remove Lime from Sap Pans. — Muriatic acid, used in the 
proportion of 1 lb. acid to 1 gallon water (used cold), will cmt the 
scale; it can then be removed with a brush. 

To Clean Bi'ass or Copper. — (1) Take lemon peel or pulp, dip 
it in salt, and rub copper or brass articles with it; rub them imme- 
diately afterwards with a dry, soft cloth; waste lemon from lemon- 
ade, etc., may be used. (2) Mix together 1 oz. oxalic acid, 6 oz. 
rottenstone, and ^ oz. gum arable; all these are to be finely pow- 
dered; then add 1 oz. sweet oil and sufficient water to form the mix- 
ture into a paste. Apply a small portion to the article to be cleaned, 
and rub dry with a flannel or wash leather. 

Copper and brass articles are a ot as well adapted to general cooking purposes 
as many other metals, because even mild acids so readily form poisonous, com- 
pounds with them. When used they should be kept scrupulously clean. 

To Bi'oiize Brass or Copper. — (1) Boil the article in a strong 
solution of nitrate of copper. (2) The repeated application of alter- 
nate washes of dilute acetic acid and exposure to the fumes of am- 
monia will give a very antique looking green bronze. 

BRITTANIA METAL.- To clean this, rul) the articles first with 
sweet oil on a piece of flannel; next wash with strong warm soapsuds; 
rub them dry, and polish with chamois leather and whiting. The 
polish thus given lasts for a long time. 

BRONZE — In caring for bronze, ordinarily, careful dusting and 
keeping free from dirt is all that is required. (1) If greased or 
spotted, wash with a strong warm soapsuds; then rub gently, and dry 
thoroughly. (2) Clean //with spirits of turpentine. (3) A dilute 
solution of caustic alkalies removes overlying dirt and allows the 
green patina to become visible. Where the metal was not originally 
oxidized, the alkali simply cleans it, and does not promote any for- 
mation of green rust. 

Bronzing Liquid. — Thoroughly clean the article to be bronzed; 
then warm it gently, and brush it over with the following prepara- 
tion: 1 dr. sal ammoniac, 15 grains of oxalic acid, and 1 pint of vine- 
gar, all well mixed together; rub dry, and then repeat the application 
till the required tint is obtained. 

Lacquer for Bi'onze. — Dissolve | lb. shellac and ^ lb. sandarach 
in 3 quarts alcohol; add enough extract of dragon's blood and tur- 
meric to produce the desired color. 

Bronzing Process for Porcelain, Stoneware mid Composition 
Picture and Loolcing^glass Frames. — First a^jply a thin solution of 
water=glass, using a soft brush; then dust on bronze powder, and 
dust off any excess not adhering, by a few gentle taps. Then heat it, 
to dry the silicate, and the bronze will be flrmly attached. The 
bronze may then be polished by burnishing, using preferably agate 
tools. 



752 METALS AND METAL WAKE 

COINS. — These can be quickly cleansed by immersion in strong 
nitric acid, and immediate washing in water. If very dirty, or if cor- 
roded with verdigris, it is better to give them a rubbing with i oz. 
pure potash bichromate, 1 oz. sulphuric acid, 1 oz. nitric acid; rub 
over, .wash with water, wipe dry, and polish with rottenstone or 
chalk. — Ly^c. 

COPPER ARTICLES.— (1) Vinegar and salt, mixed, will clean 
copper. (2) Use soft soap and rottenstone, made into a stitf paste 
with water, and dissolve by gently simmering in a water bath or 
double boiler; rub it on with a woolen rag, and polish with dry wdiit- 
ing and rottenstone; finish with dry whiting on a chamois skin or 
flannel. See also "To Clean Brass or Copper," given above. 

DOOR PLATES — To polish these without soiling the wood or 
stone around them cut a hole in a stiff cardboard the exact size of 
the plate, and slij) it over before polishing. The easiest way to 
clean them is generally to use ammonia and water, and then dry 
with chamois sldn, and then the pasteboard shield is not needed. 

GAS CHANDELIERS AND BRACKETS.— These should be 
dusted regularly. To clcfin them. (1) If lacquered, wipe them over 
lightly with a soft flannel di^^ped in a preparation of equal parts of 
stale beer and vinegar. (2) If gilded, clean like gilded jncture 
frames. (3) To thoroughly clean a lacquered chandelier take it to 
pieces, and boil them for a few minutes in a strong soda lye; then 
brush them over with a soft brush, pass them through a strong solu- 
tion of j)otassium cyanide (deadly poison), wash through a tubful of 
boiling water, dry in clean sawdust, wipe bright with a wash leather 
and relacquer. (4) The accumulation of grease near the burner can 
be removed by using the vinegar and stale beer mentioned above. 

A Convenient Wajj to Rebronze Gas Fixtures.— Mix bronze 
powder with any transparent varnish like amber, gum demar or 
copal; do not mix more than you are going to use at once. The 
best way is put a little of the varnish in a small, flat saucer, and 
some of the loose powder next it, and mix it with the brush as you 
use it. 

GERMAN SILVER. — To clean this: (1) Use whiting made 
into a paste with water, and rubbed on with flannel; then rub dry 
with a chamois skin. (2) Rottenstone, rouge or crocus, mixed with 
sweet oil, and rubbed well on; polish off with a clean chamois 
skin and dry whiting. (3) Dissolve | oz. of alum and ^ oz. of cream 
of tartar in ^ pint of vinegar; add 1 pint boiling water; wash with 
this when much discolored. (4) If discolored or spotted with vine- 
gar or other acids, wash it and then scour with sweet oil and rotten- 
stone. 

GILT MOUNTINGS These articles should not be rubbed; if 

slightly tarnished, wipe them off with a piece of canton flannel; or, 
better, remove them, if possible, and wash in a solution of ^ oz. 
borax dissolved in 1 lb, water, and dry them with a soft linen rag; 



METALS AND METAL WARE loll 

their lustre may be improved by heating them a little and rubbing 
with a piece of canton flannel. Unless carefully cleaned they soon 
lose their lustre. 

Gilded oiiicles of any kind may be cleaned as explained for gilt 
picture frames (which see). 

GOLD — To clean. — (1) Make a solution of 20 drachms lime 
chloride, 20 drachms soda bicarbonate, 5 drachms common salt, in 5^ 
pints distilled water; keep in well closed bottles. Allow the article 
to be cleaned to remain in this solution a short time (which is to be 
heated only in case of very obstinate dirt) then take out, wash with 
spirit, s and dry with sawdust. (2) To remove the brown tarnish 
from colored gold, wet tissue i^aper in ammonia and rub gently until 
the tarnish disappears; then wash, rinse, and dry in sawdust. If this 
does not do it, take it to a jeweler. (3) Polish with rouge and oil on 
a piece of chamois leather. (Be careful of any jewelry containing 
pearls, etc. See the article on " Care of Jewelry.") 

To Clean Gold and Silrei- Lace. — (1) Take finely crushed stale 
bread crumbs, and mix it in -^ as much powdered blue; spread this 
plentifully on the lace and it will soon become bright; then brush ofP 
the crumbs with a piece of flannel, and rub with chamois and it 
will look like new. (2) Clean gold lace by rubbing it with a soft 
brush dipped in roche alum, burnt, and sifted to a fine j)owder. (3) 
Dab silver lace with a paste of heavy magnesium and water; let it 
dry and brush it otf with a soft brush. 

IRON AND STEEL — To clean.— (1) Rust on iron may be re- 
moved by rubbing it with kerosene. (2) For Russia iron apply black- 
ing and kerosene mixed, and it will look nearly new. (3) For steel, 
take turpentine and sweet oil, equal parts, and thicken with emery 
powder to a paste; rub it on with flannel and rub it dry with chamois 
leather. If this is not enough, finish with a little dry emery powder 
on flannel. (4) For bright steel, mix 1 tablespoon of turpentine and 
1 of crocus powder; rub on c^uickly, and rub oft' again as quickly; pol- 
ish with a chamois leather, and it should look bright as a mirror. 
(5) To take rust out of steel, rub it with sweet oil; leave on 1 or 2 
days; then rub with finely powdered unslacked lime until the rust 
is gone. (6) Make whiting into a paste with a few drops of alcohol; 
^Pply thickly, allow to dry on, then rub off' and polish with a soft lea- 
ther. This will remove tarnishes. (7) For badly rusted steel, scour 
with salt and hot vinegar: then wash off* thorougldy with lioiling hot 
water, dry with a flannel cloth, and warm at the stove; then rub with 
flannel dipped in sweet oil. 

Rnssia Iron, to Clean. — Take a piece of beeswax about as 
large as a hickory=nut; shave fine, and cut with f-^nnt of gasoline; 
rub on with a cotton cloth, and polish with flannel. Do not mix or 
use near a fire. 

Russia Ii-on. to Blach and Keej) from Biisl.— {1) Take | pint 
best black varnish (asphaltum is l;est); 1 ]iint 1 Irck Ceylon ]ph('; 
add enough spirits of turpentine to mix it into a rriint. Apply like 
48 



754 METALS AND METAL WARE 

other polish to a stove, and rub at once with a bru5:h. Have the iron 
cold when applied. (2) Melt together 8 parts lard and 1 part resin. 
A thin coat will keep Russia Iron or (p-aies from rust when not in 
use, even in damp places. Good also for sicel, copper or brass. 

Steel Ornaments, to Clean. — (1) Rub them with a mixture of 
paraffine oil and emery; then rub them with putty powder sifted 
through muslin, and mixed with a little oil. (2) Lime moistened 
with water and placed on the ornaments as a paste for 12 hours, and 
then brushed off, is a good restorer. 

To Preserve Steel from Rust. — (1) Dissolve white beeswax in 
benzine; paint this on the article; the benzine evaporates leaving a 
thin coating of wax on the steel. Keei) 1he solution in a tightly 
corked bottle as it is very volatile. (2) First, clean the article, then 
dust it over with po watered quicklime, and leave till wanted for use. 
Coils of piano irire, thus coverc^d have ke^^t for years. Applicable 
to any bright iron or steel goods. (3) Iron blades immersed in a 
solution of carbonate of soda or potash, and then exposed to a damp 
atmosphere will keep from rust for three years. (4) Melt 1 oz. resin 
in 1 gill linseed oil, and while hot, pour on them 2 quarts of paraffine 
oil. Apply this mixture with a rag or soft brush. (5) Mix wnth 
mutton fat ^ i^int of oil varnish, four-fifths pint of well rectified spirits 
of turpentine. Apply this varnish with a sponge. Metals .thus var- 
nished will retain their metallic ])rilliancy and not contract rust. (H) 
A thin, even coat of sweet oil applied to steel surfaces keeps them 
from rust. (7) Melt pure mutton suet, clip in the steel of knives, 
for]{s, etc.; let it cool, wrap tissue paper around them, then canton 
flannel or thick paper, and they can be stored indefinitely without 
rusting. 

To Clean a File. — Pour on seme benzine, and rub it with a 
stiff or scratch brush. 

Stvords, etc., may be rubbed with powdered brick dust and oil; 
rub dry with brick dust; polish with crocus and leather. 

To Keep Steel Ear-rings, Broodies, Etc. — First clean, and then 
keep in powdered quicklime and they will suffer little from rust. 
LTnslacked lime is an excellent thing to clean steel articles with. 

7o Polish Iron or Steel. — Mix 2 oz. fine emery with 1 oz. soft 
soap; rub iron or steel with this, on wash leather, and it will give it a 
fine polish. 

To Remove Paint from Iivn. — Use a paint softener made of 1 
lb. lime, 4 lbs. j)otash and 6 quarts water. Excellent. 

To Prevent Iron fi-om Rnstinfj.^-'Wnrm it till you annot com- 
fortably hold your hand on it; then, rub it well with clean white wax; 
heat it again until the wax has soaked in, then rub the iron with a 
piece of coarse cloth, and in future it will not rust. 

GALVANIZED IRON ARTICLES— These are best cleaned by 
scouring them with a strong solution of hot M^ater and common wash- 
ing soda. Galvanized iron attracts soap in such a way as to cause a 
deposit which is disagreeable and unsightly; hence it is better to use 
tinned vessels for holding any soapy solutions. 



METALS AND METAL WARE 755 

A Word of Caution. — In g-alvanized iron vessels, water readily 
acts on the zinc coating, and forms a poisonous o.ride of zinc. Hence 
for drinking water, or for any cooking purposes, galvanized iron 
utensils of any kind sliould never be used. 

PEWTER. — Keep pewter vessels free from damp; wipe well, and 
dry before the fire after use. To clcoit : (1 ) Make a paste of whiting 
and kerosene or sweet oil; rub with a flannel dipped in this paste. 
(2) Wash in hot water with fine silver sand; then polish with soft 
leather. (3) Scour with fine emery on flannel or chamois. (4) Use 
a paste of rottenstone and oil, with just a little ammonia added. 
First M'ash the article with soap and water, then rub with this pa.ste, 
and then polish with soft leather. 

NICKEL. — To clean this use whiting, mixed with ammonia, 
water, or kerosene; rub it on with a flannel; then rub dry with a 
clean flannel or chamois skin. Rouge also polishes it well, and com- 
mon soda cleans it well. 

SILVER AND PLATED WARE.— Hot soapsuds will make all 
silverware look dull — a little ammonia in the water used for washing 
it is much better. For cleaning silverware: (1) Ammonia and alco- 
hol are both excellent; rub either on the article, then polish with a 
little whiting (sifted thoroughly free from all grit) on a chamois skin. 
(2) One of the simplest and best things is to lay the silver in sour 
milk or buttermilk; it will take off all sulphur stains, etc., and make 
it look like new. (o) Save the water in which potatoes have been 
boiled; it is better if salted, and also if kept a few days until sour; 
use it hot, rub the silver with it, rinse, and polish with chamois. (4) 
Lemon juice cleans silver well. 

Plate Bof/s for Dailij Use. — These are convenient, and may be 
prepared as follows: Boil soft rags (nothing better for this than the 
tops of old cotton stockings) in a mixture of new milk and hartshorn 
powder, in the j)roportion of 1 oz. of powder to 1 pint of milk; boil 
for 5 minutes; wring them for a moment in cold water, as soon as 
they are taken out, and dry them before the fire. With these rags 
rub the plate briskly as soon as it has been well washed and dried; a 
most beautiful deep polish will be produced. Better to use than 
powders. 

Egr/ and Mustard Sfai)is. — These may be removed from silver 
sjDoons by using a damp cloth dij)ped in salt. 

Stained and Spotted. Silverware. — Whenever silver i)late from 
long standing and neglect is stained and spotted so that it is not 
readily cleaned by the usual plate powders, mix 1 part sal annnoniac 
with 16 parts vinegar; rub the stains or spots gently with the mix- 
ture and they will soon disappear. Then wash well with soap and 
water. 

To Remove Inlx Stains from Silver or Plated Ware. — Rub 
with a paste of chloride of lime and water; then wash well, and wipe. 



756 METALS AND METAL WARE 

To Clean SiJver D)rss Tri»nuinfjs. — If slightly tarnished cover 
them with dry magnesia; leave it on for 2 hours, then rub it in, and 
brush it off with a hard brush. If they are very dirty the magnesia 
must be first used wet, and then dry. 

Good Polishes for Silver or Plated Ware. — These may be 
made as follows: (1) Alcohol and whiting (freed from grit) mixed 
together makes a simple and excellent plate powder, or use ammonia 
and whiting mixed; apply it, let it dry, and then rub it off with 
chamois skin. (2) Take 1 oz. each of cream of tartar, muriate of 
soda and alum ; boil them in 1 gal. or more of water. It gives silver- 
ware a beautiful silvery whiteness. 

If any plate powder is used in cleaning silverware it must be 
carefully brushed out of the chased work with a soft brush. 

A Caution. — Many i^late powders contain quicksilver; (dl such 
powders are injurious and should never be used. 

Mercm^y or qvicksilrer when applied to silver or gold disinte- 
grates the metal and makes it very brittle; the remedy is to heat the 
metal in an alcohol or gas Hame; the mercury evaporates and the 
metal is as good as ever. Then polish off the tarnish. 

When silverivare is laid ainiy, wrap it first in tissue paper, 
and then in unbleached canton flannel; then wrap it in stout wrap- 
ping paper or an oil silk bag, and as nearly air tight as possible, to 
exclude the gaseous vapors and dampness found in most houses. 
Camphor gum wrapped in the canton flannel with the silver helps 
keep it bright. Fannel or woolen should not be used to wrap up 
silver, as these contain sulphur which tarnishes it. 

A silver tea or coffee pot hot in daily use should have the 
cover propped open a little, when it is put away, by laying a little 
stick across the top; this will admit the air and prevent its becoming 
musty; by rinsing it with a little boiling water it can then be used 
at any time at once. 

TINWARE. — Never use acids to clean tinware; they attack the 
metal and remove it from the iron on which it forms a thin coat. 
To clean tin: (1) Saturate a cloth with kerosene, dip it in whiting 
and scour with it. The best way. (2) Blackened ware may be 
scoured with a damj) cloth dipped in soda; then rinse, and wipe dry. 

(3) Rub with rottenstone and sweet oil; finish with soft leather. 

(4) Use kerosene oil alone. (5) Use whiting dry, or moistened a 
little ((3) Moisten the tin, rub on dry flour with the hand, and then 
scrub till bright with newspaper. (7) To clean tinware after it has 
held petroleum, scrub with hot water and soap. 

Keep all tinware perfectly dry; it soon becomes tarnished in 
moist air. 

To Prevent Rust on Tin. — Rub thoroughly with lard, covering 
every part; then heat it well in a hot oven. Even if used constantly 
in water, this will protect it for some time. 

Musty coffee or tea. pots, or piephdes, ])ots or pans that have 
been used to bake in and have become rancid, may be made sweet 



METALS AND METAL. WARE 757 

and clean as follows: Take cold water and add either wood ashes or 
soda; then pnt this in the article, or the article in this, as the case 
may be, and brin<j: it to a boil; boil for a time, then let it cool, and 
scrub thoroughly with hot soapsuds, using a small scrub brush; then 
scald in water a couple of times, rinse and dry. 

New tinware, before being cooked in, should have soda water 
boiled in it; then wash it with soa^jsuds, rinse and dry it thoroughly, 

A CdJdion. — Because of the readiness M'ith which salt, acids, 
etc., attack tinware, it should be used cautiously in cooking. 

Constant scoiirinri of timvare with ashes, rottenstone, whiting, 
etc., wears it out; if washed ordinarily with hot water and soap, and 
about once a week with hot water and soda, it will need scouring 
rarely. 

To Remove the Lids from Tin Cans. — First start the solder by 
placing live coals on top; an old case kinfe will then remove the lid; 
be careful not to start the side seam. 

To Afend Tinware. — Scrape and clean the parts, rub on pow- 
dered resin, lay on solder, and hold a hot poker or soldering iron on 
it. Or, clean the sjDot, apply soldering fluid, i^lace a piece of bright 
tin of the required shape over the hole, melt some solder in an iron 
spoon, and pour it around the edges. Or, cut tin foil the required 
size; wet the surfaces with a feather dipped in sal ammoniac; heat 
with a hot iron till the tinfoil is melted. Or, scrape the place clean, 
api^ly soldering tluid, lay on a piece of solder, and hold over a lamp 
till the solder melts and fills the hole. It is quite easy to mend tin- 
ware, and people in the country will find it a great advantage often 
to be able to mend their own ware. People in towns can send to a 
tinsmith more easily. 

A Soldering Fluid. — This is easily made by taking a glass bot- ' 
tie, putting in hydrochloric acid, and adding small pieces of zinc 
until it will dissolve no more. Apply it wdth a stick when ready. 
Do not get it on the clothes or hands. 

A f/ood solder for tinware is the lining of teachests, as it is 
made of tin and lead in about the right proportions. 

Lacquer for Tin. — Put 3 oz. seeddac, 2 drachms of dragon's 
blood, and 1 oz. of turmeric powder into a pint of well rectified 
spirits; let stand 2 weeks, agitating at least once each day; then 
strain through muslin. Apply it to tinware which is intended to im- 
itate brass. 

Any good lacquer laid on tin gives it the appearance of brass or 
copper. Color lac varnish with turmeric, which will give it the color 
of brass; or with annatto which will give it the color of copper. 

Japan for Tinware. — (1) Mix 8 oz. oil of turpentine, 2 oz, copal 
varnish, and 1 drachm of camphor. (2) LTse common copal varnish. 
Either of these may be colored with lampl)lack or vermillion, and will 
then make a good japan. 

WIRE TABLE WARE. — This can be kept bright by washing in 
water, using a soft cloth and a little soap; it will not need scouring if 
properly cared for. Whiting is excellent, if anything is used. 



758 METALS AND METAL WARE 

ZINC. — To clean zinc: (1) Dip cotton cloth in kerosene and 
rub the articles; then rub dry with another cotton cloth. (2) A 
quick process is to use creosote or glycerine, mixed with a little 
dilute sulphuric acid. (8) The water in which codfish has been 
soaked is good for scouring the zinc under the stove. (4) Lime 
water will clean zinc well. (5) Dilute hydrochloric acid will clean 
small zinc articles quickly. Rub large articles, like refrigerators, 
with raw spirits; then rinse with water, and finish with whiting. (6) 
Take \ lb. jwwdered pumice stone, 2 oz. emery j)owder, 1| quarts soft 
water, 1 oz. nitric acid; shake together well before using. This 
answers well for tin also. 

POLISHING MATERIALS.— Whiting used dry, or moistened 
with water, is good for almost any unlacquered metal, even silver 
plate. Rottenstone mixed with oil, or Hour of emery, used either dry 
or mixed with oil, are suitable for almost any metal not lacquered, 
except silver or gold. Rouge, dry, or mixed with oil, is best for gold 
or silver. Lime is good for steel articles. 

An Ejcccllctd Polishing Powder. — Thoroughly mix 6 oz. of car- 
bonate of magnesia with 1 oz. of Paris rouge (oxide of iron). Apply 
it with a soft cloth, dampened in alcohol or water, and rub till nearly 
dry; then polish with chamois skin to finish. This powder was first 
made by Thomas Weigler, the German chemist, and has been sold 
under various high sounding names. It is suitable for either gold, 
silver, iron, steel, copjoer or tin. Excellent. 

Plcde Poivder. — Take 3 lbs. gilder's whiting, 2 oz. white castile 
soap, 1 oz. aqua ammonia, ^ oz. olive oil, 1 gill warm water. Dissolve 
the soap, and add ^ the whiting and the other ingredients; mix w^ell, 
and then add the remainder of the whiting; mix stitf — if too stitf add 
more water. Make into cakes. Use on tin, copper, silver, nickel, 
mirrors, etc. 

CARE OF JEWELRY. — To clean gold jetvelry, wash in a basin 
of soft water to which a little ammonia or baking soda has been 
added; use a soft toothbrush and good soaiJ. Then rinse off, and 
throw into a box of sawdust — boxwood is best. Shake up, and when 
dry take out, shake off the sawdust and wipe with a chamois skin. 
It will look beautifully bright. Pearls should never be washed in 
this way, however, as it may injure them. 

Tarnislied Gold. — This may be renovated by applying warm 
spirits of wine with a soft brush or flannel, and its brilliancy will be 
restored again. 

To Clean Pearls. — (1) Soak them in warm water in which bran 
has been boiled, wdth a little salts of tartar and alum, rubbing them 
gently between the hands; when the water is cold renew the applica- 
tion till any discoloration is removed; rinse in lukewarm water, and 
lay them on white paper in a dark place to cool. (2) For ordinary 
cleaning, when not much soiled, w^ash them with a soft brush in luke- 
warm water containing just a trace of ammonia. (3) Put them on a 
clean linen cloth, scatter on salt, tie up the cloth with a string, and 



STOVES, FIRES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. 759 

sop it in lukewarm water (not hotter than that ) till the salt is dis- 
solved and washed out; then take them out, rinse in clear water, and 
dry with a soft flannel cloth. 

Pccirh. — These should be kept in dry, common magnesia, in- 
stead of the cotton wool used in jewel cases. Kept in this way they 
will never tarnish nor lose their brilliancy. Pearls are the most deli- 
cate of stones and require careful treatment. They will be spoilt if 
exposed to much heat; vinegar or acids quickly destroy them. Never 
wear them when engaged in housework. 

To CJean Diamonds, Emeralds, or any of the brilliant precious 
stones, apply precipitated sulphur, moistened with spirits of wine, 
and rubbed with a soft brush. Or, clean them with ammonia, the 
principal thing being to get them pcrfccthj clean. 

Jet jewelry may be mended with black sealing wax. 

To Clean Coral Jeicelry. — Wash it with hot water, M-ith good 
soap and soda; then rinse clean, and when dry rub with chamois 
leather. 

Artificial Coral. — Melt clear yellow resin, and while melted, 
mix in thoroughly the best vermillion, in the proportion of 1 part 
Vermillion to 4 parts of resin. Stones, twigs, raisin stalks, etc., 
di^jped in this, will look like coral when cold. 

Silver Ornawenis. — These are best kept in fine arrowroot, and 
completely covered with it. For cleaning silver ornaments see 
" Silverware " and " Silver Lace." 



STOVES, FIRES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. 

STOVES. 

EVER fill a stove with coal above the top of the linings, and 
keep it free from clinkers. When the coal is put on for the 
night do not close the stove at once, but let it burn till the 
coal is warmed through ; then close it and there w'ill be no 
escaping gas; nor will the fire go out. Never let the ashes 
accumulate in the ash pan until they reach the grate — that will burn 
it out. Run a range so as to get all the heat needed without having 
the top red hot; that will warp the covers, and if a little water strikes 
them they will crack. Keep a stove W'ell l)lacked. In buying a 
stove, furnace, or any heater, get one large enough to heat up readily 
in the coldest weather, so that ordinarily it will not be run to its full 
capacity. It will wear longer and be more economical. Buying too 
small a heater is a common mistake. 

A range or cooking stove placed opposite a door or window will 
be subject to draughts M'hich will prevent the oven from baking well; 
hence arrange a place for it elsewhere, if possible. To cook well, 
keep an even, steady fire. To let it die down is poor economy as the 
heat is wasted, on adding fresh fuel, until the oven or stove is 
brought up to the right temperature for cooking. Clean out the 



700 STOVES, FIRES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. 

slides under the oven of a cookiui^ stove as often as once a week — 
twice a week is much better if there is much co )king to be done. 
With a properly reg-ulated fire, this will insure uniform results, and 
the oven can be relied on to bake well. The inside of a range, 
including the oven flues, ought to be cleaned regularly at least once a 
month. 

To (jet file best resulis out of a stove or range, and to economize 
both fuel and time, requires intelligent treatment. Every woman 
should understantl the principles on which her stove is constructed 
and its scientific management. Preserve and study the card of 
directions which goes with every range. Observing the following 
rule will save coal, and 1 hod of coal will often last 6 hours without 
replenishing: When the fire begins to burn, close the smoke 
damper; as soon as most of the coal is bright, close the other damj)- 
ers. If, however, a very hot oven is needed leave open the slide at 
the bottom of the grate. When less heat is needed in the oven, or 
on top of the range, open the checks and close the drafts; when more 
heat is needed reverse the process, /. e., close the checks and open the 
drafts. 

Most cooking stoves are altogether too low. If they were raised 
on a box or i^latform to the height of the kitchen table, or a little 
higher, it would save many a back=ache. Try it, sister, and see. 

Btacking Stores. — A stove well cared for will not need blacking 
more than once a month. Then clean oif the old blacking wnth ker- 
osene before applying the fresh coat. Then black it well, and wipe 
off with a clean rag. Always keep a cloth at the side of the stove to 
wipe up grease spots before they Ijurn in. Each morning, while the 
fire is coming u^), go over the stove with a polishing brush. In this 
way you will have a fine appearing stove always. 

Where htovl-ing iriJl not stick to a stove burned red, if a little 
vinegar, or fat fried from salt pork, is added to the water used to 
dissolve the blacking, it will adhere all right; or, wet the red parts 
and let them rust a little; then the blacking will adhere. 

In J)t(ic]:iii(j a store there are various simjjle additions which 
imi^rove the result: (1) Use turpentine, or turpentine and a little 
sugar, to mix ordinary blacking. It prevents rust and makes the 
polish more durable and glossy. (2) Mix the polish with soapsuds; 
or shave good hard soap into the p(.)lish and boil them together. (3) 
Mix the i)olish with vinegar and just a little sugar. (4) After black- 
ing a stove apply linseed oil with a woolen rag, and keep a slow fire 
till it dries. It prevents rust and gives a lasting varnish. (5) Mix^ 
the blacking with cold cofPee instead of water. (6) Mixing the 
blacking with gasoline also improves the polish, but that is so I'erij 
exijlosive that it should never be used when there is a porticte of 
fire. 

A stove l)lackened when entirely cold will retain its lustre much 
longer than one which is blackened while warm. 

To Make Stove Polish.— (1) Take 1 lb. black lead (pulver- 
ized), 1 oz. sugar, 1 gill turpentine, 1 gill water. Mix. This is the 



STOVES, FIRES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. 761 

preparation used by stove manufacturers. (2) Mix water-glass and 
lampback-to about the consistency of syruj); ap^aly a thin, even coat- 
ing with a stove brush, and let it dry for 24 hours. Then apply an 
even coat of gum water, mixed with either black lead or graphite; 
now with a polishing brush rub briskly in the usual way, and a dur- 
able and beautiful polish will result. 

To Clean a Diiiij Store. — Rub it when cold with stove polish 
mixed with alum water. 

To polish the niclxel paris of a stove use a flannel rag and whit- 
ing wet with kerosene or water; or, an old woolen cloth, dampened 
and dii^ped in the softest white ashes. 

The stove urn should be kept nearly filled with water as long as 
the stove has any fire in it. It is an excellent plan to put a small 
bag of charcoal in the urn, and change the charcoal every week. 

When clinkers (jother on the fire brick in stoves or ranges, put a 
few oyster shells on tojD of the hot coals, and put a little coal on 
them; they will, as they burn down, scale otf the clinkers. 

To Clef in tJie Mica in Slaves (often mistakenly termed "Isin- 
glass"). — This may be cleaned as good as new by washing it with 
vinegar, or with vinegar and salt mixed. 

Cracks in stoves mai/ he stopped with various cements. One, 
easily made, is to mix fine wood ashes, salt and water into a paste or 
mortar; apply while the stove is hot. Another and more durable 
filling can be made by mixing sal ammoniac and iron filings or turn- 
ings with water. Yet another is made with ecpial parts of finely 
sifted wood ashes and powdered clay, mixed with water and a little 
salt. Apply while the stove is cold. Others are given in our article 
on " Cements." 

To p>-eve)it i'ns.t in stoves when i3ut away for the summer: (1) 
Ai3ply linseed oil as explained in our 4th method for blacking stoves, 
(2) Mix blacking with kerosene or sperm oil instead of M^ater, and 
black the stove with this. (3) With a rag, apply a good coat of 
kerosene oil to both pipes and stoves on taking them down, and store 
them in a dry place. 

When a stovepipe begins to rust check it at once l^y rubbing it 
with linseed oil; dry it then by a slow fire. 

To Preserve Grates and Bright Steel Fenders from Rust: 
(1) Make a strong paste of fresh lime and water; with a fine brush 
smear this as thickly as j^ossible over all polished surfaces requiring 
preservation. All the grates and fire arms in an empty house may- 
thus be kept for months free from harm. (2) Rub bright steel fen- 
ders and fire irons with mercurial ointment, and leave all bright parts 
well smeared with it. (3) Rub them well with sperm oil after 
which apply unslacked lime. Wrap the fenders in paper to keep ofp 
dust. (4) Melt in front of the fire a piece of raw mutton fat (the 
loin is best) and rub it thickly all over bright fenders and fire irons; 
then do them up in several thicknesses of brown paper. The fat 
must be raw, not cooked, and melted only just enough to rub on 
well. 



762 STOVES, FIRES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. 

Clean steel grates when necessary, like any other steel — see our 
article on " Iron and Steel." 

To clean the soot oat of a. stovepipe throw some pieces of zinc 
on the hot coals in the stove; the vapor produced will, by decomposi- 
tion, carry olf the soot, it is said. 

It is said that a common brine of salt and water, i^oured over 
soft coal, will prevent the accumulation of soot in the chimney, and 
in the lower parts of the stove which burns. We never tried it. 

Furnace pipes should be thoroug-hly examined every fall. 
Holes are liable to rust throuo-h them, and the heat will escape 
through these rusted holes instead of passing along in the pipes to 
warm the rooms. 

A Hint. — A strong tin box, with a handle and cover, in which to 
put the stove brushes, polish, stove cloths, etc., will be a great con- 
venience; it can be carried about from room to room, and when thus 
stored away the shelves will not be soiled with the blacking, etc. 

FIRES AND FUEL. 

To s/ar^ «_/irc in a grate crumple up pieces of paper into soft 
balls, instead of laying them in Hat, and x^ut these in a layer touch- 
ing each other. Then lay on 3 or 4 small sticks of perfectly dry 
wood an inch or two apart; then 3 or 4 more across the other w\ay, and 
so on alternately, according to the size the fire is to be. This allows 
openings for a good draught, which is absolutely essential in start- 
ing a fire. Then lay on small lumps of coal, as large lumps do not 
ignite so readily, touch a lighted match to the paper below, and you 
will soon have a good fire. In starting a fire in a stove or range 
proceed in much the same way, leaving openings in the kindling 
wood for a draught. If a little coke is kept on hand to use in start- 
ing a fire, it will be a great convenience. Only a little is needed; 
it lights readily and makes an intense heat. 

Never shake a fire lohich is almost o«^— that will finish it. 
Turn on the draught instead, and as soon as it starts np a little, add 
a handful of small coals on the red spot ; in this way you can revive 
a fire almost out. When a coal fire is low, to let out the ashes from 
below or heap coal on top will put it out. 

To deaden a coalfi)'e, jDress down the mass from the top so as 
to make less room for air to draw through it. 

To revive a fire in a grcde put on the blower, and as it starts 
a little put on small pieces of coal gently until it is well started. 

AVhen starting a fire in damp, still weather, place on top of the 
grate i^ieces of lighted paper or shavings; they wnll blaze up quickly, 
heat the air in the chimney and create an upward current which will 
helj) in starting the fire, and will draw the smoke away from the 
room. 

When loiv, a tablespoon of salt thrown on a fire will help it. A 
little sugar will revive dying embers and give a bright flame at once. 
Old corks, and thoroughly dried orange and lemon joeels, make ex- 
cellent fire revivers. 



STOVES, FIRES, CHIMNEYS, ETC. 76^ 

Never pour kerosene oil on afire to revive it — it is too danger- 
ous, and your friends are are not ready to bury yon yet. 

Never tJtrow aicaij cinders or haJf-hnrned coaJ; they are worth 
as much as coal, measure for measure. Sift them out of the ashes, 
wet them, and burn them. Added to a coal fire they will make it 
hotter than fresh coal, and keep it hot longer. To throw them away 
is a pure w^aste. 

During the fed! and winter every room in the house should 
have a fire kindled in it at least once a week, to prevent dampness 

Fire Kindlers. — Melt over a slow fire 1\ lbs. of resin, and add 
either 1 pint of tar, or 5 oz. of tallow; while hot stir in as much as 
possible of fine sawdust, or sawdust and pulverized charcoal mixed — 
either is good. Then sjDread it out, about an inch dee^i, on a board 
sprinkled with charcoal, to cool. When cold, break into lumps 
about as large as hickory=nuts. They will light readily and burn for 
some time. 

Burning Buildings. — When a house takes fire every one should 
remember to shut all doors, as open doors allow flames to spread too 
rapidly. Keep the windows closed also. If hemniQd in up stairs by 
fire, do not jump from a window until the last resort. Tear up bed 
clothes or clothing and make some kind of a rope, tie one end to a 
heavy i^iece of furniture, and let yourself down by it. If a room is 
full of smoke and flame crawl on the floor, as there is less smoke 
near the floor. As a ready protection against breathing smoke wet 
a handkerchief or towel and fasten it around the face over the mouth 
and nose. 

Afire icill he crtinguished immediatehj if a solution of pearlash 
and water is thrown upon it. 

Fire Hand Grenades. — (1) Take 20 lbs. common salt, 10 lbs. sal 
ammoniac, 7 gallons water. Mix. Put this into thin bottles holding 
about a quart, and seal up. If a fire breaks out throw these bottles 
into the flames hard enough to break them. (2) Fill thin quart 
bottles with a strong solution of common salt. Throw them violently 
into a flre when it first breaks out and they will check the flames. 

Firepi'oof Solution. — Dissolve boric acid in a hot solution of 
tungstate of soda, which makes a salt called borotungstate of soda; 
materials impregnated with this solution are rendered perfectly fire- 
proof. 

A Chemical Heater. — Mix 1 lb. of soda acetate with 10 lbs. of 
soda hyposulphite. Fill a sheet copper or other metallic vessel, such 
as a foot warmer, with the solution, and seal it up. When desired 
for heating purposes place the vessel in hot or boiling water, till the 
contents are quite fluid. It possesses the j)roperty ~of giving off. the 
heat very slowly, and may be used as a source of warmth for 12 to 
15 hours. It is adapted as a foot warmer, mufp^warmer, etc., and 
where a fire is not admissible. 

CHIMNEYS. 

These should have the interior surface as smooth as possible, and 
to obtain the best draughts they should be kex^t clean. Smoky 



764 PAINT, VAKNISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. 

chimneys are very generally caused by being below the level of some 
atljacent building, or other oljject which obstructs the free passage 
of the wind. In this case the trouble will be noticed when the wind 
is in certain directions. The most reliable remedy is to raise the 
chimney to the required height by brickwork or pipe, although a 
cowl or hood will often overcome the difficulty. Leaks, holes or 
fissures in chimney's will cause sluggish draughts. If 2 fireplaces 
draw into one flue, provision should be made for closing either one 
when not in use; it is better for each to have a separate flue. 

Ordinarily the chimney is the best ventilator, at least when the 
fire is burning, which keeps up an upward draft. When there is 
no fire, however, they often admit a current of cold air which draws 
down them. 

When a chlmncij fakes jivc, shut all doors and windows and 
throw sulphur on the fire in the stove or grate — if thrown on the 
grate i^ut a board before the opening to prevent the fumes from 
coming out into the room. The brimstone fumes ascending the 
chimney will extinguish the flames. If sulphur is not convenient 
shut stove doors and hang a l)laidcet in front of the grate to check 
the draught as much as j)ossible, and throw salt on the fire; this will 
deaden it down. Never pour water down the chimney — it will spoil 
the carpet; throw down salt instead. 

Leaks about chiniueijs may be stopped up with the fireproof 
cement given among our cements, or with one of those given for 
stopping cracks in a stove. 



PAINT, VARNISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. 

PAINT. 

EFORE painting woodwork all grease spots should be re- 
moved, or the paint will not adhere. To remove the grease 
spots there are various ways. (1) Apply whitewash; leave 
on one night and wash off in the morning. When fully dry 
apply the paint. (2) Use a litte wet slacked lime instead 
of the whitewash. (3) Wash it with soda water, rinsing well after- 
wards. (4) Scour off with a little marble sand. 

If any soapsuds is used it should be washed off thoroughly, or 
the paint will not dry hard. Have the wood drij before applying the 
paint. When painting, eat acid fruits, and thoroughly air and venti- 
late the rooms. 

In giving 8 coats of paint, use about 1 lb. paint to the square 
yard on new woodwork. It is said that oil paint put on in the 
autumn lasts longer than when applied at any other season, but we 
do not vouch for that. Before applying paint, stop up nail holes, 
etc., as explained under "Nails" (which see). 

The drj/ing of paint is largely dependent on the temi^erature. 
Below the freezing point paint will often stay wet for weeks, while 
the same paint if exposed to a heat of 120° F., will become solid in a 
few hours. A good supply of fresh air is essential. An open fire in 



PAINT, VARNISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. 765 

a newly painted room is only beneficial when the temperature is low; 
as a rule it retards rather than helps the dryinc;, because of the car- 
bonic acid gas it gives off. A first coat should be thoroughly dry 
before another is put on. 

To maJce old pa hit ivltich is "s//cA7/" hcconie hard and drij, first 
apply a coat of benzine; leave it on 36 or 48 hours. Then take 3 
parts lacquer and 1 part boiled oil; mix, and apply a light coat, if 
the i^aint is good; if it is thin, mix in more lacquer and put on an- 
other coat. 

To Remove Dnj Paini from Wood. — (1) Apply a strong solution 
of oxalic acid (a poison). (2) Wet with naphtha as often as required; 
as soon as it is softened rub the surface clean. (3) Use chloroform 
mixed with a small quantity of sj^irits of ammonia composed of 
strong ammoniac. (4) Use a paste made of potash and strong lime; 
cleanse the surface afterwards with vinegar. (5) A handful of lime 
put into a pail of strong soda and water, well stirred, and laid on the 
paint, will soon soften old paint; it can then be scraped off easily. 
(6) Apply a thick coat of 2 jxirts freshly slacked lime, and 1 part 
sal soda, mixed thick; wash otf after 24 hours. Clean with vinegar. 

To Remove Painf on Glass. — (1) Dissolve common washing 
soda in hot water; apply it to the paint hot and let it soak a short 
tim^ (if thick. 30 minutes) and wash oflp. Repeat if needed. Good. 
(2) Scrape off what you can with a knife; then rub with a cloth 
wet with alcohol. (3) Use turjoentine and ammonia mixed, or 
either alone if you have not the other. (4) Take 3 parts potash, 
and 1 part unslacked lime; lay on with a stick and leave some time; 
it will remove either tar or i^aint. 

Cleaning Paint.— Paint should be more often brushed than 
scrubbed; too frequent scrubbing causes it to decay. Use little soap 
and wash it off with plenty of clean water, to j)revent discoloration. 
Soda, pearlash and ammonia all injure paint if allowed to remain on; 
it is better not to use them at all, but if used they should be immedi- 
ately rinsed off with clean water, and the paint rubbed dry with flan- 
nel. For washing i3aint there is nothing better to use than old worn 
flannel Do not have the water too hot. The woodwork inside a 
house should all be washed over twice a year. We present the fol- 
lowing methods for cleaning unvarnished paint: (1) Wet the 
paint with warm water; then rub with a damp flannel dipped in whit- 
ing; rinse off' with clean water and rub dry with chamois-. This is 
much better than soajD, is easily used, saves the paint, and makes it 
look like new. (2) For paiut much soiled use whiting and ox gall 
mixed together to a batter. Rub on with a flannel; rinse off' with 
cold water, rub dry with a soft cloth The unpleasant smell of the 
gall will soon go off. (3) Dissolve | oz. glue, and a bit of soft soap 
the size of a walnut, in about 3 pints warm water; scrub this on with 
a well worn whitewash brush, but not enough to start the paint; rinse 
with plenty of clean cold water, using a wash leather; let it dry it- 
self. Work done in this manner will often look like new. (4) Mix 
1 tablespoon of skimmed milk, 2 tablespoons of turpentine, 2 quarts 
hot w^ater, and soap enough to make a suds ; this cleans well and 
adds luster. 



766 PAINT, VARNISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. 

To Clean Oiled and Varnished Woods. — Wring a flannel cloth 
out of lukewarm soft water, and wipe them ofP. 

Grained Wood is best washed with cold tea, and for dark col- 
ored paints this is one of the most convenient and effectual things 
there is; then rub it with flannel cloth 

For flower-'pot stains on a windoiV'sill, see " W^indows." 

To Desirofj the Smell of Fresh Faint.— (1) Shut up the room 
closely, and place in the middle of it a jsan of lighted charcoal on 
which some juniper berries have been thrown. (2) Leave in the 
room a pail of water containing some new hay; or place hay on the 
floor and sprinkle it with water in which chloride of lime has been 
mixed. 

Leave several pans or i^ails of water during the night in a newly 
painted room, and in the sleeping rooms adjoining, and the deleteri- 
ous effects of fresh paint will be nearly overcome; the material it 
absorbs will be seen on the top of the water in the morning. Do not 
sleep in a freshly painted room. 

To Prevent Paint from Smelling. — Dissolve some frankincense 
in spirits of turpentine by simmering over a clear fire; then strain 
and bottle the mixture. Add this to any jiaint, and, if too thick, thin 
with turpentine. 

Paint Which Besists Moist tire.—Take 6 gallons fish oil, lU. of 
sulphur, -j lb. resin; melt and mix all together thoroughly; color as 
desired with ochre or other colors, and use a little linseed oil; apply 
while hot with a brush; have the first coat very thin — then lay on 
several more. May be applied to either wood or stone. 

Liglit colors, as is well known, reflect the heat, while dark colors 
absorb it; for this reason light colored paints are best to use on tools, 
etc., much exposed to the sun. 

Lvminons Paints. — Several bodies possess the property of ab- 
sorbing a certain amount of light and then emitting it slcjwly. Cal- 
cium sulphide is the most important of these, and it has been mixed 
with paint where the light is desired. It is very feeble, however. If 
something of the kind is desired, heat strontium theo sulphate for 15 
minutes over a good Bunsen gas lamp, and then for 5 minutes over a 
blast lamp. For use, mix it with jmre melted jiarafRne, and expose 
it to the sunlight for a time. In the dark it will emit a greenish 
phosphorescence. It can be applied to clock dials, etc. 

PAINT BRUSHES.— To soften brushes that have become hard, 
soak them for 24 hours in raw linseed oil, and rinse them out in hot 
turpentine, repeating the process until clean. To ivash the brusJies, 
use hot soda and water and soft soap. If paint brushes have a hole 
bored in the handle and, when not in use, are hung above an open 
necked bottle or can, containing oil, so that the bristles are immersed 
up to the binding cords, they will keep clean and be ready at any 
time for use. 

To h-ccj) a neui brush from sheddinr/ its bri.^tles or shrinJaiic/, 
turn it bottom up; then spread open the Ijristles and pour in a little 
good varnish; keep it bottom up till dry, and the varnish will "set" 
around the bristles and bind them fast, 



PAINT, VARNISH, WHITEWASH, ETC. 767 

VARNISH. 

Lay on varnisk carefully, with a good even stroke, applying a 
smooth and regular coat; let it stand in a moderately warm place to 
dry, that the varnish may not chill. 

To Remove Varnish. — (1) Scrape with sandpaper, and then use 
spirits of ammonia; it is a rather slow process. (2» Cut the varnish 
with spirits of wine and turpentine mixed. 

To Remove Sjyots on Varnisli. — See our directions for taking 
spots off of varnished furniture in the article on " Furniture." 

To clean i-arnishe<l surf((ces, as well as dark colored paints or 
graining, wash it off with cold tea; then polish with a chamois skin. 
Never use hot water on varnish. For a fuller explanation of .the 
treatment of varnished surfaces see our article on "Furniture." 

When va}'nish is "sZ/cA-//" it may be remedied by first applying 
a coat of benzine; leave it 48 to 72 hours; then lay on a coat of good 
varnisli. Do not use the article until it is thoroughly dry. 

Do not use ammonia on varnish, as that turns it white. 

For a. ivJn'te varnisli, take 6 oz. white wax, 1 pint oil of turpen- 
tine; dissolve by a gentle heat. 

For a cheap oak varnisli, take 3^ lbs. clear, j)ale resin, 1 gallon 
oil of turpentine; dissolve it. This may be colored darker by adding 
a little fine lampblack. 

For a sea]i))(/ wa.r varnisli dissolve sealing wax in spirits of 
wine, and apply the solution (well shaken up) with a soft brush; the 
spirits of wine will evaporate, leaving an even coating of sealing 
wax. 

Fo)- a, shellac varnish, dissolve 1 part shellac in 7 or 8 parts of 
alcohol. If too thick add alcohol; if too thin add shellac. Keej) in a 
bottle. It dries cjuickly and is good to varnish almost anything 
with. 

Colorless Varnish. — Take 2| z. bleached shellac and let it dis- 
solve in 1 ijint of rectified alcohol; then heat 5 oz. animal bone black, 
mix in thoroughly, and boil all 5 minutes; test it by filtering a little 
through filtering paper; if not colorless put in more bone black and 
again boil; then filter it all through silk and filtering paper. It can 
be used as soon as it cools, for white wood, labels, paints or any spot- 
less article. 

VARNISH BRUSHES.— As the beauty of varnishing depends 
largely on the brush, care should be taken to select one thaf is suita- 
ble. The best way to keep a varnish brush when not in use is to 
bore a hole in the handle as advised for paint brushes, and suspend it 
above a narrow tin pot containing the kind of varnish last used, im- 
mersing it up to the binding cords but no higher. Brushes kept in 
turpentine are apt to' get hard and harsh. 

CALCIMINE AND WHITEWASH. 

CALCIMINE. — Before applying a new coat of calcimine wash off 
the old one. It can be done with a sponge and a jjail of water, or 



768 PAINT, VARNI>SH, WHITEWASH, ETC. 

moisten and scrape it off. To j)i-cpar(' calcuninc, soak \ lb. of white 
giue over night in cold water; in the morning h(«at it until dissolved. 
Mix 10 lbs. whiting in hot water and then mix and stir the 2 to- 
gether; dilute to about the thickness of cream, with warm water. 
The glue can be left out if skimmed milk is used in place of the 
water. Apply it with a calcimine brush, which produces a better re- 
sult than the coarser brush used for whitewash. If there are cracks 
in the ceiling, fill them, before applying the calcimine, with the wall 
cement given among our cements. The smoke from a ktn'osene lamp 
may be washed from a ceiling as explained under "Lamps." 

Cdlcimine can eastlij he iinicd any desired shade. The following 
are a few of them: For a hiijf imi, use 2 parts Indian yellow, and 1 
part burnt sienna. For hJuc, use a little Prussian blue; a dark blue 
shade is never advisable. For hrown, use burnt umber. For (jrey, 
use raw umber, with a little lampblack. For lavender, prepare a 
light l)lue, and then shade it a trifle with vermillion. For Jilae, use 2 
parts Prussian blue and 1 part vermillion; mix thoroughly, and don't 
get the color too high. For sfraiv, use chrome yellow and a very 
little Spanish brown. Remember, that delicate tints are alw^ays in 
better taste and more agreeable than vivid colors; also that when laid 
on they always look brighter than when in the calcimine pail. Ceil- 
ings should be a little lighter than the walls. Accomi^lish this by 
calcimining the ceiling first; then add a little more color and go over 
the walls. 

_ WHITEWASH— Slack about ^ bushel of unslacked lime with 
boiling water, keeping it coyered during the process. Strain it, and 
add one peck of salt dissolved in warm water, 3 lbs. ground rice put 
in boiling water and boiled to a thin paste, |- lb. powdered Spanish 
whiting, and 1 11). clear glue dissolved in warm water; mix these well 
together and let the mixture stand for several days. Keep the wash 
thus prepared in a kettle or portable furnace, and when used put it 
on as hot as possible. This will answer for either wood, brick or 
stone, and retains its luster for a long time. It is the formula recom- 
mended by the U. S. Treasury Department to all lighthouse keepers. 
It can be colored, if desired, to any shade. A little lampblack added 
makes a sJaie color ; lampblack and Spanish brown, a red stone color; 
yellow ochre or chrome yellow a pretty cream, shade, etc. 

For common M'ork a mixture may be used of -| bushel of lime 
slacked with boiling wafer, and add 1 lb. of common salt, \ lb. of sul- 
phate of zinc, and 1 gallon of sweet milk. This is cheap, easily made 
and excellent, and if applied once a year, or even oftener, to unpainted 
fences and outbuildings, whether of wood or stone, it will preserve 
them, and conduce to the healfhfulness of the premises. Many peo- 
ple do not realize the value of a good coat of whitewash. This may 
be colored to any desired shade by using yellow ochre, lampblack, 
burnt umber, Prussian blue, etc. 

No brick wall which is ever intended to be painted should be 
whitewashed. All washes absorb water, and in damp weather lose 
their color. 



PICTURES AND FRAMES 801 

PICTURES AND FRAMES. 

FICTURES should always be hung with cord strong enough to 
hold them. There is nothing stronger than copper wire; or 
use the cords containing wire. In buying cord get that as 
near the color of the wall as possible. The etfect is better to 
put engravings between chromos and paintings than to hang 
the latter side by side; and it is better not to hang water colors near 
colored pictures like paintings and chromos. Pictures should not be 
hung so that the shadows will come near the window; it may si^oil 
the effect of a good picture, l:)ecause the side that needs the light will 
not get it. When hung directly opposite a window the retlection of 
the light from both glass and frame may nearly hide the picture. Do 
not hang pictures or chromos so that they are exposed to the direct 
rays of the sun, nor, on the o^her hand, in a dark room, as darkness 
fades some colors rapidly. Have a good light, therefore, but not 
strong sunlight. 

Attend to the condition of the wall against which a picture is 
hung. A slight amount of dampness will jDroduce brown or mildewed 
sjDots on an engraving or any kind of paper mount, while it produces 
a slight film of mildew on an oil painting. On the other hand an oil 
painting should never be hung on a wall through which a hot flue or 
chimney j)asses, which heats the wall considerably, as after a time 
curious spots, lines and patches make their appearance, and if the 
picture has ever been restored the places become painfully apparant. 
When iDictures hang flat, it is a good plan to have a piece of cork fas- 
tened • behind each corner, which will keep the frame a small space 
from the wall, and promote free ventilation behind them. Only 
heavy gilt frames should be used for oil paintings. 

An oil painting should have its face dusted with an old soft silk 
handkerchief; this is much better than a feather duster. Occasion- 
ally (perhaps every 2 or 3 months or so) it should be dry cleaned, 
using an old silk handkerchief, although some use a pad of soft cot- 
t'jn=wool. Brush it lightly and quickly, and an occasional breath on 
the surface helps the process. A slow touch with a silk handkerchief 
is apt to make the surface look greasy. Do not press heavily, nor 
strain the canvas in the least. W^hen spots or discolorations are ob- 
served, or a picture has become very dirty, it must be taken down 
and cleaned carefully. Choice pictures which show signs of mildew, 
cracking, etc., should be taken to a professional restorer, rather than 
to attempt handling them at home. 

To Clean Oil Paintings. — There are various methods. (1) 
First wipe off the dust with soft silk; then dip the finger in a little 
linseed oil contained in a saucer, and gently rub the painting. This 
method requires time and patience, but it is safe~ and it pr^^duces 
gratifying results. ^2) In restoring pictures the great thing is to do 
as little as possible. They can be washed -with warm water and sweet 
milk, and then dried carefully. Do not rub them hard. (8) Finst 
examine the picture to see that there are no cracks, or bits of paint 
likely to peel off; then take an old soft cloth and some white of egg, 

51 



802 PICTURES AND FRAMES 

and wash the surface, a square inch at a time, with a spiral motion 
of the hand, not pressing too heavily. If very dirty mix some bread 
molasses and new milk in a basin, adding a trifle of turpentine; wash 
it with this, using soft flannel and a sponge; afterwards use the white 
of an egg. (4) If care is taken not to let water through cracks, nor 
wet the backs, castile soap can be used on oil paintings, although as 
a rule it is not advisable. (5) Raw potato has an almost magical 
effect on oil paintings, and is sometimes used to clean them. First 
wij)e off the dust with a soft silk cloth; then rub it with the raw 
potato; lightly and eveidy, and wipe otf the lather with a soft rag. 
Manipulate it carefully. The dirty surface of the potato must be 
constantly trimmed off, to keep a clean working surface. Afterwards 
rub- the picture over with clean nut or linseed oil. 

Vdrnish for Pictures. — Put into a bottle 2 parts alcohol and 1 
part best coach varnish; shake well; they will separate unless they 
are shaken every time they are used. To use, pour a little in a cup 
and spread it on quickly with a camel's hair brush, as the alcohol 
speedily evaporates. If necessary, after the flrst coat has dried apply 
a second, and draw the brush the opposite way in applying it. Keep 
it clear of dust while drying; this gives a beautiful polish, not af- 
fected by cold water used to clean it, nor by steam. 

To Clean Chromos. — (1) Use a soft cloth, moistened in cold tea; 
then polish them with a little oil. (2) Dust them carefully, and 
then wipe them with a soft linen rag or chamois skin, moistened 
slightly. Finish by rubbing with a touch of oil on a chamois. 
Apply a thin coat of mastic varnish if the old coat is dull or defaced. 

Varnish for Chromos. — For chromos not previously varnished 
prepare a size by dissolving isinglass in lukewarm water, making it 
the consistency of starch. Apply, lightly, a smooth coat of this with 
a flat varnish brush; when quite dry, lay on, in a warm room, one or 
more coats of Demar varnish; shield carefully from the dust until 
dry. Thus varnished they can be safely wiped off at any time, and 
will be much more durable. 

FRAMES. 

To Clean Gilt Frames.— (1) Blow off the dust. Then beat up 
the white of eggs and add common washing soda, in the proportion 
of 3 oz. eQ:i; to 1 oz. soda; brush this, with a soft brush, over the 
frame. This will also clean and brighten all gilded articles. (2) 
Mix 1 gill of water, 1 oz. common salt, 1 oz. alum, and 2 oz. purified 
nitre. Sponging with this mixture will brighten them if ever so 
dirty. 

Black Walnut or Other Dctrh Colored Frames. — If varnished, 
these may be cleaned with cold tea, and then rubbed up with a good 
furniture polish. If oiled, and .not varnished, clean them first with 
cold tea, then rub with a little linseed or kerosene oil. 

White Frames. — If varnished these may be cleaned like other 
varnished frames; if not varnished, clean carefully with whiting and 
water, and then rub with a chamois skin. 



PICTURES AND FRAMES 803 

New Gilf Frames should be given a coat of white varnish. It 
improves their ajopearance, makes them last much longer, and fly 
specks can then be washed off without injury. This also improves 
old frames. 

To Keep Flies Off of Fro vies. S-ponge them over with onion 
water. Boil 4 or 5 onions in a pint of water; when cold, apply it; it 
will not injure the frames. Applying laurel oil will also keep off 
flies. 

To Restore Old Gildings. — (1) Form cotton wool into a tuft as 
large as a nut, dip it in strong liquid ammonia, and carefully apply. 
If the gold is not worn off' it restores it fairly well. (2) To patch or 
retouch a gilt frame apply to the abraided spot a size, made ])y dis- 
solving isinglass in alcc^hol; when partially dry, lay on gold loaf; 
leave it till fully dry; then burnish with a hard burnisher, (o) Take 
1 quart of water, add enough flowers of sulphur to give it a golden 
tinge, boil 5 or 6 onions in it and strain. Apply to the part that 
needs restoring, with a soft brush, when cold. The onions will, keep 
off' flies, and the solution will brighten the frame. 

To Eegild Picture Frames. — Take some parchment gokhsize, 
and water gold size; warm them and mix together till fluid- paint 
this over the i^icture frame with a soft brush; when dry, apply a sec- 
ond coat; when that is dry rub gently with fine sandi^nper. Have 
ready some book golddeaf, warm it before the fire, rul3 some white 
wax upon a piece of writing paper; pick up the gold leaf with the 
waxed iDapet and lay it gently on the frame, and continue fixing 
leaves till the frame is covered, but always overlap one leaf with an- 
other; then press the gold leaf to the frame very gently. Let it dry; 
then pass a clean brush dipjDed in water over the surface to carry 
away any superfluous gold leaf. Cover the gilding with a coating of 
warm parchment size, and it will be finished. 

The Glass Over Pictures. — This should be washed with am- 
monia and water, and M'iped dry with chamois skin or tissue paper. 

When it is desired to clean the glass without taking it out of the 
frame, and the frame is made of silk or other material easily soiled, 
bend pieces of tin at an angle, thus L- '"^ncl- set these over the frame 
with one edge resting on the glass and the long arm protecting the 
frame; then wash carefully with soft water and ammonia, and rub 
dry with tissue paper or chamois skin. 

THE PICTURE CORD.— To hang pictures copper wire is the 
best thing to use, adapting the size to the weight of the picture; if 
cord is used buy that made for the purpose with wire in it. 

ENGRAVINGS, MEZZOTINTS, ETC. 

To Clean. — Engravings or prints which have been laid in any of 
the following baths, may be laid on a clean board or strips of clean 
smooth cloth to dry. Sometimes prints are dried by laying them 
between sheets of clean blotting paper, and keeping them under 
pressure till dry. If necessary they may be ironed with an ordinary 
flat iron to restore the gloss, xslacing clean paper between the iron 



804 PICTURES AND FRAMES 

and the print. Sometimes, before being dried, they are placed in a 
very weak sohition of isinglass or ghie, to act as a size; a little coffee 
or tobacco added to the solution will give a yellow tinge when that is 
desired. Great care should be exercised in handling i)rints while 
wet, so as not to tear them. They are easily handled with a little 
care. 

For cleaning prints there are various methods, the following 
being among the best: (1) If engravings are very dirty, take 2 parts 
salt and 1 of soda, and pound them together very fine. Lay the en- 
graving on a board, and fasten it with drawing pins; then spread this 
mixture, dry, equally over the surface to be cleaned. Moisten the 
wh'jle with warm water and a little lemon juice, and, after it has 
remained a minute, or even less, tilt the board xip on its end, and 
pour over it a kettleful of boiling water. Avoid rvd)bing, and be 
careful to remove all the mixture. If the engraving is not very dirty 
the less soda used the better, as it has a tendency to give a yellow 
hue. Then treat as above directed. (2) Prepare a solution in the 
proportion of ^ lb. lime chloride to 1 pint water; let it stand, with 
frequent stirring, for 24 hours; then strain through muslin, and 
finally add 1 quart water. Engravings, prints, and every description 
of printed matter, may be immersed in this solution; mildew and 
other stains will quickly disappear. The sheets must then be passed, 
separately, through clear water, as the lime chloride if left in the 
jpaper will cause it to rot. Dry as above directed. 

To remove surface dirt from engravings and mezzotints, the 
most etTectual plan is to use bookbinder's paste; api3ly it with a paste 
brush to both the front and back of the jjrint; the paste will take up 
the whole of the dirt, which will come away with the i^aste; remove 
that by immersing the print in a bath of plain water; it will come 
out as fresh as new. This plan is sinq^le but efficacious, and many a 
dollar has been earned by it. Dry as above directed. 

Superficial Markiiujs, from lead pencils, etc., may be removed 
by rubbing the surface with fresh cut bread, in circular sweeps, 
lightly but firmly j)erforined. 

Snidll (jrease spots may be removed by placing powdered French 
chalk over them, a piece of clean blotting paper over the chalk, and a 
hot iron over that. Do not have the iron too hot, or it may turn the 
grease dark. 

To remove ink stxiins, berry stains, etc., see the article on 
" Books and Paper." 



BOOKS AND PAPER 



805 



BOOKS AND PAPER. 

BOOKS. 

T is one thing to buy books; it is quite another to intelligently 
j care for them. The following rules are well worth preserving 
by every one who handles books: 



middle, and never from the ends or 
cover. 

Always keep a borrowed book neatly 
covered with paper while in your pos- 
session. 

Never try to dry by a fire a book acci- 
dentally wet, but wipe off the moisture 
with a soft dry cloth and let it dry 
slowly. 

Never cut the leaves of a book or 
magazine with a sharp knife, as the 
edge will run into the print. 

Never lend a borrowed book, but re- 
turn it directly you get through with it 
so that the owner may not be deprived 
of its use. 

Always have a good index or cata- 
logue of the contents of your library. 



Never hold a book near a fire. 

Never lean or rest upon an open book. 

Never turn down the corners of leaves. 

Never touch a book with damp or 
soiled hands. 

Always keep your place with a thin 
book mark. 

Always place a large book on the 
table before opening it. 

Always turn leaves from the top with 
the fore or middle finger. 

Never touch a book with a damp 
cloth or sj^onge. 

Never rub dust from books, but brush 
it off with a soft dry cloth or duster. 

Never close a book with a pencil, pad 
of paper, or anything else between the 
leaves. 

Always open a large book from the 

Books .which are placed in a library should l^e thoroughly dusted 
2 or 8 times a year, not only to keep them clean and fresh, but also 
to prevent any development of insects and to disclose signs of damp- 
ness. The interior of a book also requires care, though often neg- 
lected. On taking a book from the shelf, before opening it see if 
there is dust on the top edge. If it has trimmed edges blow oif the 
dust, and then dust with a soft duster; if the edges are uncut, brush 
with a rather hard brush. In this w^ay the dust will be kept from 
sifting into the book. If books are packed too tightly on the shelves 
their backs will be broken when they are taken down. Nothing 
spoils books more quickly than laying them open, face down, to pre- 
serve the place. 

Bookshelves should be covered with a dust sheet before a room 
is swept. Books which are not kept under glass may be guarded to 
some extent from dust by having strips of leather or cloth 2 or 3 
inches deep, nailed along the edges of the shelves; also lay sheets of 
brown paper, a little wider than the books, along their tops. At the 
annual housecleaning, books should be taken down and beaten, first 
singly and then, taking one book in each hand, strike them together 
two or three times, and then carefully dust them; then the shelves 
should be washed, scrubbed and thoroughly dried, before the books 
are i^ut back. 

TJie 3 great enemies of booJxS are insects, damj), and rats and 
mice. Every one knows how to guard against rats and mice. To 
preserve books, warm, dry air is required; dampness and e,rcessive 
heat must be avoided. The more they are read the more easily they 



80G BOOKS AND PAPER 

are preserved. It is said that the reason Russia leather never molds 
and is not affected by damp is because it is perfumed with tar of 
l^irch tree. Book cases or shelves made of cedar, cypress, sandal- 
wood, or any strongly aromatic wood, are a protection to books 
against insects. The Romans preserved valuable manuscripts with oil 
of cedar. Bindings brushed over with spirits of wine are jn'eserved 
from mildew, and 1 libraries may be preserved from the effects of mold 
and damj) by using a few drops of any perfumed oil. Alum used in 
the bookbinder's paste, has a preservative effect, while oil of turi)en- 
tine is much better. Aniseseed, bergamot, or anything strongly 
odoriferous, mixed in paste, preserves it indetiuitely from the at- 
tacks of insects. 

Gi'ease Spots. — These may be removed from the covers of bound 
books by laying fine pipeclay, magnesia or French chalk on both 
sides, and applying a hot iron; but take care that it is not too hot. 
Colored calf=skin may be treated the same way. Vellum covers which 
need cleaning may he made almost equal to new by washing with a 
weak solution of potash binoxalate, or, if not soiled, with warm water 
and soap. 

PAPER. 

Bcrrjj Stains. — These may be removed from engravings, books 
or paper by subjecting them to the fumes of sulphur, or of sulphur 
matches. 

To Remove Grease Spots from Paper. — (1) Lay some fuller's 
earth, powdered chalk, blotting j)aper or magnesia on the paper, both 
above and below the spot; set on a hot flatiron to melt the grease 
and it will be at once absorbed. Do not have the iron too hot, how- 
ever, or the paper will be discolored. Or (2) place a blotting paper 
underneath, and moisten the spots with a camel's hair pencil dipped 
in rectified spirits of tui'pentine; when dry, moisten with a little 
spirits of wine, which will remove any stain left by the turpentine. 

To Remove Oil Stains from Drawing Paper. — Apply a solu- 
tion of jDearlash in the projjortion of 1 oz. pearlash to 1 pint of water. 

To Remove Ink Stains from Paper (including that of books 
or engravings). — Use a solution of oxalic acid, citric acid, or tartaric 
acid; apply the solution, then dry with blotting paper. These acids 
remove writing ink, but do not affect printing ink. Javelle water 
will also take out ink stains. 

The Blue Lines on Paper. — The above preparations will also 
remove the hlne lines fronl writing paper. These can be ruled in 
again, if desired, by using ordinary bluing, mixed with water, and 
a little ox gall added to make it flow. 

Fiufjer or Thnmh Marhs on paper are often difficult to erase > 
the dirt being of a greasy nature and forced into the fibers of th© 
paper. Remove slight stains with rubber or bread crumbs; for i\\Q 
more difficult ones api)ly a jelly made of white or curd soap, leave it 
on some time and then immerse the paper in cold water and then 
gently brush it off with a soft brush; then rinse it in a weak acid 
water, and then again with cold water and size it again when dry. 



BOOKS AND PAPER 807 

To Remove India Ink from Paper. — To remove a blot of this 
apply water with a camel's hair brush; leave on a few seconds, then 
make as dry as ijossible with l)lotting paper, and then rub carefully 
with India rubber. Repeat, if necessary, till all is gone. For lines, 
circles, etc., dij) the ink leg of the instruments in water, open the pen 
rather wider than the line, and trace over the ink, using blotting 
paper and India rubber as for a blot; applicable to drawing paper, 
tracing pajjer, and tracing linen. If the surface is a little rough- 
ened thereby, polish it with your finger.nail. 

To Split a. Sheet of Paper. — Paste a piece of cloth to each side 
of the sheet to be split. When, perfectly dry, violently and without 
hesitation ]pull the two cloths apart; part of the paper will adhere to 
one, and part to the other. Wet and soften the j^aste, and the two 
pieces can be easily removed from the cloth. If there is only one 
copy of a newspaper article, and it is desired to paste it in a scrap 
book, it is convenient to know how to split it, and the process can 
be utilized in various ways. It will work if managed skilfully. 

To Talce Creases out of Drawing Paper or an Engraving. — 
Lay it on a sheet of smooth, unsized white pai^er, face downwards; 
then lay on top of it another slightly dampened sheet of the same 
paper, and pass a moderately warm flat=iron over it all. 

To Prepare Oiled Paper. — Brush the sheets over with boiled 
oil, in which a little shellac has been carefully dissolved over a slow 
fire; susj)end them till dry. 

To Make Waterproof Paper. — Dissolve 8 oz. alum and 3| oz. 
castile soap in 2 quarts water; in another jar dissolve 2 oz. gum 
arable and 4 oz. glue in 2 quarts water; mix the solutions, heat 
slightly, dip in the single sheets, and hang up to dry. 

Waterproof Pastehoa7-d. — This may be prepared with a mixture 
of 4 parts slacked lime in 8 of skimmed milk, with a little alum 
added. As soon as mixed, brush the pasteboard over with 2 succes- 
sive coatings; it becomes impervious to water. 

To Make Transparent Tracing Paper.— (l) Saturate ordinary 
writing paper with kerosene and wipe the surface dry. Or (2) dis- 
solve I oz. white beeswax in ^ pint turpentine; saturate the paper 
with this, and let dry 2 or 3 days. (3) Spirits of turpentine or ben- 
zoline will make paper transparent while wet with it; when dry it will 
be again opaque. 

To Make Paper Fireproof — Prepare a strong solution of alum, 
steep the paper in it, and hang it up to dry. If not effectual the first 
time, repeat. 

Parchment Paper. — Take sulphuric acid, and mix in | its weight 
of water. A sheet of common writing paper dipped in this solution 
becomes somewhat like parchment, and for writing on is superior to 
animal parchment. It is fibrous, tough, hard and waterproof. 

3Ianuscripts, ichen almost illegible, may be renovated by washing 
them very lightly and carefully with a very weak solution of ferro= 
cyanide of j)otash in clean water. The writing will again appear. 



808 BOOKS AND PAPER 

To Rrsfore Faded Wviii)uj. — Moisten the paper with water, and 
then l)rush it over with a soluticjn of sulph4iydric ammonia. (8ee 
also the article on "Restoring Obliterated Ink.") 

Hccnt for Note Paper. — Take 1^ oz. powdered starch, 4 drops 
attar of roses, ^ oz. powdered orris root; mix together, and put it in 
little silk bags to be kept in the writing desk. 

When jit d ferns: or papers roll, they can be flattened and smoothed 
by holding them before a hot fire without waiting to heat an iron. 

Plai/hifi Ca)-ds. to CJemi.- Mix a little butter and flour into a 
paste, and rub the cards with it, using a piece of clean soft flannel; 
then rub them with flour alone on a clean piece of flannel. 

PARCHMENT AND VELLUM. 

Benzine, applied with a sponge, will remove almost every stain, 
and does not injure the texture in the least. On no account must 
parchment be washed in very hot water, or held before a fire, as it 
will shrivel up provokingly. Acetic acid is sometimes used to take 
out stains, but it injures the gloss and leaves the parchment hard 
when dry, so that it is not a very successful plan. 

To M(d\e Parchment Transparent. — Soak a thin skin of it in a 
strong lye of wood ashes, often wringing it out till it becomes trans- 
jjarent; then strain it on a frame and let it dry. When dry, a coating 
on both sides with clear mastic varnish, diluted with spirits of tur- 
pentine, will improve it. 

WALL PAPER. 

Old paper should be removed from the walls before new is put 
on. It can be taken off easily by wetting it with saleratus water. 
Then brush over the walls with a weak solution of carbolic acid. 
The odor will soon disappear, and it will purify the walls and drive 
away insects. Should there be too much whitening on the walls, wet 
them with clear water, and scrape with a scraper. Then apply a thin 
coat of sizing made by dissolving common glue in water. 

In selecting wall paper striking contrasts should be avoided; 
choose neutral tints and colors which harmonize with the surround- 
ings. Good taste may be displayed even if the paper is cheap. If 
the ceilings are low, paper with figures running perpendicularly will 
make them appear much higher. Before laying on the paper, if dirt 
or grease spots appear on the wall they should be washed off with 
weak lye. After papering a room no fire should be made in it for 
several days, or until the paper is perfectly dry. In buying paper 
get an extra roll — it will be useful later for repairs. 

For suitable pastes to use see our article elsewhere on "Pastes." 

To Clean Old Wall Paper.— {!) Blow off the dust with a bel- 
lows, and then take a loaf of stale bread (rye is best) cut it into 
pieces and, beginning at the top, go around the room, using the soft 
side of the bread and rubbing downwards, about 2 feet at a stroke. 
Rub lightly or you will rub the dirt in. Keep going round in this 



BOOKS AND PAPER 809 

way, and working down, until the paper is all gone over. This will 
remove dust, smoke, whitewash, etc., and make the paper look almost 
like new. (2) Another excellent way to clean wall paper is to put 
about 2 quarts of wheat bran in a coarse flannel bag, and rub the 
wall as above directed. (3) Rubbing old wall paper with a flannel 
cloth dipped in dry cornmeal, or oatmeal, will much improve its ap- 
pearance. 

A long handled brush, long enough to reach the ceilings, is as 
important to a good housekeeper as a broom. Brush the walls over 
in straight lines befcjre sweeping; use either the l)rush itself, or have 
it covered with a clean soft cloth. This will keep the paper fresh 
and clean a long time. When the paper is only slightly soiled brush- 
ing it over with a broom or brush covered with clean calico cloth will 
make it look fresh and bright. It is easier than the use of stale bread 
which is best when the paper is vei'y dirty. Change the cloth as 
often as it gets dirty. 

To Bemove Grease Spots. — Lay blotting pai3er over them and 
press with a hot flatnron; this melts the grease, and the blotting 
paper absorbs it. Do not have the iron too hot. Or (2) treat as in 
the following paragraph. 

To Remove Oil Stoiiis or Marks Where People Have Rested 
Their Heads. — Mix iDipeclay or fuller's earth to the consistency of 
cream, lay it on the si^ot, leave it till the next day, and remove it 
with a penknife or brush it off. If any trace remains repeat the op- 
eration. 

To Make a Size for Wall Paper. — Break up some glue small 
and put it into a pail; pour water over it and let it soak for a day. 
Then add more water and boil up till dissolved; strain it through a 
cloth and try it on the paper. If it glistens it is too thick; if it soaks 
in it is too thin. Have plenty of size on the brush and apply very 
lightly for the first coat. Give 2 coats of size, and when dry, varnish 
with pale varnish. 

To Detect Arsenic in Wall Paper. — (1) Turn down an ordinary 
gas jet to a pinpoint, until it is wholly blue; then take a strip of the 
suspected paper onesixteenth inch wide, and 2 or 3 inches long; 
when the edge of this paper is brought in contact with the outer edge 
of the gas flame a gray coloration (if arsenic is present) will be seen 
in the flame. The paper is burned a little, and the fumes given off 
will have a garlic like odor, due to the vapor of arsenic acid. Now 
look at the charred end and it will be a bronze red. Place the 
charred end a second time, not too far in the flame, and the flame will 
be colored green. By this simple means, without apparatus, the 
presence of arsenic may be detected. (2) Or another method is to 
put a little strip of the suspected paper in a small saucer and cover it 
with ordinary household ammonia; after standing a few minutes a 
piece of lunar or stick caustic (nitrate of silver) should be dropped 
in; if a yellow precipitate forms, arsenic is present, and the paper is 
not fit to use. It is generally thought that only green colors con- 
tain arsenic, but in fact joaper of any color may contain it. The only 
safe way is to take a sample and test, or have it tested before buying. 



810 LEATHER 

If there is any question, refer it to a chemist, and make the dealer 
pay the fee. You can't afford to run risks in such a matter. Arsenic 
XJapers are certainly very injurious to the health. 

An Edsfj Way io Repair Small Breaks in Wall Paper. — A 
better and more satisfactory way than patching the paper, is to touch 
in the broken spots with ijaint. A set of children's paints is good 
for this i)urpose. Mix the tints until the same shade is obtained as 
the broken spot in the paper, and it will hardly be noticed. Several 
colors can be worked in if needed. 

Holes Broken in the Plaster. — These may be repaired by taking 
•equal parts of plaster of paris and the common white sand used in 
families for scouring purposes; mix them to a paste with water. Fill 
the holes with this, and smooth it off with any flat or ordinary 
kitchen knife; it will speedily dry, and can then be i^apered over. If 
mixed with vinegar instead of water it will not "set" so quickly. 

Fill cracks with the wall cement given among our " Cements." 

To remove the smoke of a kerosene lamp from a ceiling see 
" Lamps." 

GILT CORNICES— 7^0 Clean.— Wash them with warm milk, 
and polish with chamois skin. 



LEATHER. 

f'YASTOR Oil for Leather. — Old leather can be partially reno- 

I v/ vated by being impregnated with castor oil, and new leather 

I a) preserved thus, better than by any other jjrocess. It will 

^^ render old boots soft and pliable and will not prevent them 

from taking blacking. It will double the wear of driving 

belts used on machinery, and will make old fire hose soft as new. It 

will also iDreserve the leather from the attacks of rats and insects. 

Moldy Leather. — Remove the surface mold wnth a ch-y cloth, 
and with another cloth apply pyroligneous acid. 

Mildeiv on Leather. — Rub it gently with vaseline, to remove it. 
To Clean Buff Colored Leather. — Dissolve 1 oz. oxalic acid in 
1 pint of water; wash well with this, and then rub on a little clean 
tallow. 

To Clean Morocco Leather. — (1) Sponge the leather over with 
warm, soapy water to remove all dust and dirt, and then rub it over 
with a piece of clean cloth dii3ped in glaire. (2) Strain the leather 
well over a board, and scour well with a stiff brush, using tepid 
water and soft soap, made slightly acid with oxalic acid; do not sat- 
urate the leather, but keep the board inclined, to let the water run 
off'; when done, unstrain the leather and dry it in a cool i^lace; when 
dry, rub a little oil lightly over the surface with a rag. 

To Restore the Lustre of Morocco. — Take a sponge, dip it in 
the white of an egg, and varnish the leather over. 



■ LEATHER fill 

To Make Lecdher Vermin Proof. — Apply castor oil mixed with 
tallow. 

Acids on Lecdhe)'. — All acids and acid preiDarations destroy the 
life of leather. Foi- preserrimj its life nothing better has ever been 
found than castor oil. 

Pofeid a}id e)ianieled leathe)- icill stick togctiwr if the glazed 
sides are x^laced together in warm weather. To separate them when 
thns stuck place the leather in a drying or other hot room; when hot 
they can be separated without injury; or spread them on a tin roof 
on a hot day and they will soon heat enough to separate. Any at- 
tempt to separate them without heating to a high degree will spoil 
them. 

To Ton or Cure Small Skins icith the Fur o«.— (1) Clean off 
the llesh thoroughly, and then spread butter all over the flesh side, 
and then tramp on them or otherwise work the butter tJiorouf/hlij 
into the skin, until it is pliable and thoroughly cured. vSkins thus 
treated are soft, pliable, and very satisfactory. (2) Take ^ lb. alum, 
^ lb. sulphate of soda, 2 oz. sulphur, 2 oz. sulphate of potash, 3 oz. 
salt; mix all in 1 quart of water. Spread this on the flesh side, fold 
the skin in the middle, flesh to flesh; leave thus 3 or 4 days, and then 
hang up to dry. It will be soft, pliable, and well tanned. The above 
amount will do for 1 dogskin, sheepskin, calfskin, etc. Double the 
amount for a siiiall hide for a robe; heavier hides in proportion. (3) 
For a sheepskin for a rug, boil the skin in a suds containing a little 
sal soda; then. soak over night in a solution of I- lb. each of alum and 
common salt, with just enough water to cover. Then tack it to a 
smooth surface, flesh side out, to dry, and while damp sprinkle it 
with powdered alum and saltpetre. In a few days scrape it with 
pumice stone, when it will become soft and pliable. Line with 
heavy flannel, and scallop the edges, allowing these to project enough 
to give a pretty ornamental finislx to the rug. 

To Make Glaire. — (1 ) Whip up the white of eggs and allow it to 
stand; ijour off the clear liquid and that is what is used. (2) Beat 
the whites of eggs with an equal quantity of water, and add a little 
sugar candy. 

To Make Lecdher Wcderproof. — Coat it with a solution of 
India rubber and boiled linseed oil. 

CHAMOIS SKIN, TO WASH.— Rub plenty of soft soap into the 
skin, and then soak it for 2 hours in a weak solution of soda and 
warm water; then rub till it is quite clean, and 
rinse well in a weak solution of warm water, 
soda, and yellow soap. If rinsed in clear water 
alone it will become hard; it is the little soap 
left in the leather which enables it to become 
soft like silk. After rinsing, wring well in a 
rough towel, dry quickly, and then pull and 
brush it thoroughly. It will be better than 
most new leather, and this i^ the best way to 
clean it. CJiamois jackets or fnrj/ chamois arti- 
cle can be cleaned this way. 




CHAMOIS. 



812 LEATHER 

The Chamois is a species of antelope about tiie size' of a large goat. It is 
found in the Alps and in the mountains in tlie west of Asia. The flesh is higiily 
esteemed, but it is jirinci pally prized for its skin. The skin was dressed with oil 
and made very pliable, but now the skins of goals, deer and sheep are treated in 
the same way and sold for chamois skin. Tlie leather is very useful. 

CARE OF BOOTS AND SHOES.— By taking a little care of 
boots and sIkx's tlu^y can be made to wear much longer, and they 
will always look better. Do not use much of the dressings so fash- 
ionable for ladies' and children's shoes — most of them crack the 
leather and ruin it. Do not leave shoes kicking about when not in 
use, but on taking them ofp, air them a while, brush oif the mud or 
dirt, oil or polish them, put them in a box or shoe bag, and when 
wanted they will be in good condition. The family shoe bill can be 
reduced ^ by a little intelligent care. 

Acid Blackings. — These are generally used for boots and shoes 
until every particle of oil in the leather is destroyed. To remedy 
this, wash off the blacking and apply castor oil; then set away for 1 
or 2 days. This will renew the elasticity and life of the leather and 
prevent its cracking. Oil hlackiin/s are best for boots and shoes, as 
acid blacking destroys the life of the leather. 

Care of Kid Booh. — For an excellent i^olish beat up the white 
of an egg with an equal quantity of water and a little sugar candy; 
if well made it is quite transparent and not at all sticky. It is good 
for all fine leather, especially kid. Touch up kid boots with a mix- 
ture of castor oil and ink. The ink blackens and the oil softens 
them, and keeps them in fine condition. Or, to restore the color, mix 
a little good polish blacking with the white of an egg, and apply. 

To Clc((ii White Satin SJiocs. — These should be kept closely 
wrapped in blue paper — they will not bear exposure to the air. 
When slightly soiled, they may be cleaned with stale bread or corn 
meal; if very dirty, wipe lengthwise of the satin with a clean flannel 
dipped in spirits of wine, or with gasoline. 

To Clean Patent Leattier Sliocs. — Wipe off mud, etc., with a 
sponge moistened with lukewarm water and afterwards rub with a 
soft cloth or old silk handerchief. Eub occasionally with a little 
milk, or sweet oil, and soft cloth. Black and polish the edge of the 
sole in the usual way, but without covering the patent leather top. 
Patent leather cracks easily when cold, so it should be kept warm. 

To Clean Tan Stioes. — Dissolve a tablespoon of salt in warm 
water; mix with it 1 pint cold water, in which 1 oz, salts of lemon 
has been dissolved. Wash the boots or shoes with a little of this 
preparation and dry them icell. Polish them ofP afterwards with soft 
flannel, or an old silk handkerchief. 

To Clean Top Boots. — Clean the lower part in the usual way, 
but protect the top by inserting a fold of cloth under the edges and 
bringing it up over them. When cleaning the top let this covering 
fall down over the lower part. Clean the top by washing with soap 
and flannel, and rub out any spots with pumice stone. If the tops 
are wanted whiter, dissolve 1 oz, of oxalic acid, | oz, of muriatic 



LEATHER 813 

acid, I oz. of alum, ^ oz. of gum arable, aud ^ oz. of spirit of lav- 
eudar^ in 1^ pints of skimmed milk " turned." Apply by means of a 
sponge, and polish when dry, with a rubber or soft flannel. 
. Brown Leather may be cleaned with this last preparation. 

Wash for Boot Tops. — Mix in a j)hial 1 drachm of chlorate of 
potash with 2 oz. distilled water, and, when the potash is dissolved, 
add 2 ox. of muriatic acid. Then shake well tog-ether in another 
phial, 8 oz. of strong spirits of wine, with \ oz. of essential oil of 
lemons; then unite the contents of the two phials, and keep the 
licjuid thus prepared closely corked for use. This liquid should be 
ai^plied with a clean sponge, then dried with a gentle heat, and pol- 
ished with a soft brush. The tops will appear like new leather. 

To Besfore Color io Leafher. — Take a small quantity of good 
black ink, mix it with the white of an egg, and apply with a sponge. 

To Soften the Leather. — To make the leather soft and j)liable 
castor oil is better than any other. A teaspoon of castor oil rubbed 
into shoes by the fire when they are new, and repeated occasionally 
afterwards, will add greatly to their wear. 

To Ease Boots Slighthj Tight at the Heel.— 'Ruh the inside of 
the heel with dry soap. 

To Tie a Slioestriug. — First tie a single (not double) bow=knot; 
then using the long end of the string, and the loop or bow already 
formed, tie them into a bow-knot. A firm knot will result which will 
not untie of itself. 

To Malxe Boots and Shoes Wear. — Turn the boots or shoes 
bottom upwards and see that the soles are dry. If new, scrape the 
black off the bottom of the heel. Then apply, a few hours apart, as 
many coats of thin varnish as will soak in. The second day after 
applying the last coat begin to wear the boot so that it Avill shape 
itself to the foot while moist. This will make the soles waterproof 
and greatly increase their wear. For the uppers, apply while warm, 
4 parts of lard to 1 of resin, well mixed. 

If two pairs of shoes are worn alternatelij, allowing 1 pair to 
rest while the other is worn, they will wear much longer than if 1 
pair is worn continually. Taking off the shoes worn in the street, 
when in the house, is both restful, and gives the shoes a chance to 
air and dry. 

D)-ijiii<j Wet Boots. — Fill them with oats, instead of drying 
before the fire. These absorb the moisture and keep the l)oots in 
shape. Shake out the oats next day. Or, stuff them with paper to 
keep them in shape. Never dry wet boots or shoes quickly before 
the fire — it hardens them. Dry them slowly. 

To Soften Wet Boots and Shoes. — Take 1 gilL linseed oil, 1 oz. 
spirits of turpentine, ^ oz. Burgundy pitch, and 1 oz. beeswax; melt 
together, and rub into the leather, when quite dry, before the fire. 
Good also for preserving leather from rain and sea water. Applying 
castor oil is also excellent; kerosene is sometimes used, but is not so 
good. 



814 WOODENWAKE 

To Stop Sqnedldng. — (1) Soak the soles for a couple of hours in 
linseed oil. (2) Drive a couple of pegs in the middle of the soles. 
(8) Shake a little French chalk through a small hole made in the 
inner sole. 

Waterproof Soles for Shoes. — Melted beeswax, thinned with 
sweet oil, and poured with a spoon onto the soles of shoes or boots, 
warmed before the fire, until no more will soak in, will make them 
waterproof and much more durable. 

Shoe Dressing. — Take 1 oz. gum shellac, ^ oz. borax, 1 packet 
slate Diamond die, and 1 jjint boiling water; cut the shellac in a 
little alcohol, or put it in a dish and set it over boiling water till dis- 
solved. Moisten the dye in a little cold water, then jjour over the 
boiling water and dissolve the borax in the same; then add this, while 
hot, to the dissolved shellac, and thoroughly mix them together; 
bottle for use while warm. A good dressing and easily made at 
home. 

Waterproof Dressing. — Take 1 pint of drying oil, 2 oz. yellow 
wax, 2 oz. turi3entine, | oz. Burgundy pitch; melt together over a 
slow fire. Apply with a sponge and the boots will be waterproof, 
and will never shrivel. 

Waterproof Blacking. — Put ^ 11). of shellac in a large nosed 
bottle, and cover it with alcohol; cork it and Icjave for a few days 
until fully cut Then add | oz. of lampblack, and a heaping table- 
spoon of gum camphor, and let stand 8 or 4 days, stirring it occasion- 
ally until well dissolved. Apply with an old cloth to the leather. 

Japan Blacking for Boots and Shoes. — Take 8 parts of mo- 
lasses, 1 part of lampblack, 1 part of sweet oil. 1 part of gum arable, 
1 part of isinglass, 82 parts water, 1 oz. spirits of wine, and a little 
oX'gall. Mix the molasses, lampblack, sweet oil, gum and isinglass 
in the water; set over the fire to heat, stirring it well; add the spirits 
of wine and ox^gall, and bottle as soon as possible Apply with a 
sponge, and warm the bottle before using. 

Polish. — Take of ivory black and molasses each 4 oz., sulphuric 
acid 1 oz., best olive oil 2 spionfals. best white wine vinegar 8 cup?; 
mix the ivory d)lack and molasses well in an earthen jar; then.adcl 
the sulphuric acid, continuing to stir the mixture; next pour in the 
oil: and lastly add the vinegar, stirring it in by degrees until thor- 
oughly incorporated. A good i^olish —better than many sold in 
stores, but it is an acid blacking. 



WOODENWARE. 

\\ f O Take the Woodij Taste Out of New Woodenware. — Scald 
W I it out first with boiling hot water, and leave it in until it 

SJ I 19 gets cold; then empty it out. Next make a lye of warm 
water and soda (say 1 lb. soda to ^ barrel of soft water) and 
to this add a little lime; wash out the article thoroughly 

with this mixture. Then take clear hot water and scald it out again, 

and finally rinse it out well with clean cold water. 



WOODENWARE 815 

To Sicceten Woodemrarc. — ^An excellent thing to sweeten 
woodenware is hay water; charcoal is also good. 

New Woodenware. — New wooden articles should be prepared 
for domestic use by a thorough soaking in cold water, and scalding 
them afterwards. A new wooden bowl jDut into a large kettle of cold 
brine and heated to the boiling point and then allowed to cool, will 
be less likely to crack. It is an excellent plan to grease a new 
wooden bowl inside and out, before it is used at all; let it stand 1 or 
2 days to soak in, and then scour well until cpiite clear from grease. 

Washing Woodenware. — Wash utensils made of wood at once 
after being used, because if grease and dirt are once allowed to soak 
into the wood it may be impossible to restore them. Wash wooden- 
ware with lukewarm water and soap, adding a little soda; then rinse 
with cold water, and wipe as dry as possible. In M'ashing a wooden 
bowl dry it well with a cloth, and then set it away in a cool place. 
Never dry it near the fire, as that cracks it. 

Drijing Woodenware. — In drying anij woodenware, like mold- 
ing-boards, chopping bowls, etc., never jDut them near the fire after 
being washed. Dry them with a cloth and then put them in a cool 
place, as they may crack and warp if exposed to dry heat while damp. 

Pails and Tubs. — These may be kept from shrinking by saturat- 
ing them with glycerine. A pail of water put into a tub as soon as 
you are through using it M'ill keep it from warping. Scald out 
woodenware often, say once a week for pails in active use, using boil- 
ing hot water and soda. Two or three coats of copal varnish applied 
to the inside of new wooden pails will keep them from water soaking, 
or from flavoring the water. 

Wooden Sjwons. — These can be kept from splitting if as soon as 
bought, and before being used, they are greased thoroughly with lard 
or butter; let it soak in well, laying them near the fire to effect it. 
Treat wooden forks the same way. 

Incomhusiihle Varnish for Wood. — Make a solution of equal 
parts of isinglass and alum, apply it to the wood and let dry. Fluids 
can be boiled over an ordinary fire in a wooden vessel thus coated. 

Casks. — Before being filled these should be scalded out with 
boiling water, allowed to cool, and examined as to their cleanliness. 
If a cask smells sour, especially in summer weather, put in dry lime 
through the bungdiole, breaking it up into small pieces, and put in 
perhaps 4 lbs. to a barrel; then put in about 4 gallons oi boiling 
water, bung it up, and leave several hours, occasionally rolling it 
about. Then empty it out, wash out the cask \vell, steam it, let it 
cool, and it will be fit to contain anything. Another way to treat a 
musty cask is to burn a little sulphur in it while empty, close the 
bung, and let it stand a day or so. 

Casks in vliich the inside has been charred will preserve water, 
salt meat, etc., for some time. 

To Clean Cider Casks.-- (1) Half fill with boiling water, add ^ 
lb. pearlash, bung up, turn over occasionally for two days, empty, 
and wash with boiling water. (2) Scald out with boiling water; if 



816 FEATHERS AND HAIR 

the heads are out put the cask over a fire of straw for a few minutes 
so as to slightly char the inside. If you have a steam boiler, partly 
fill the cask with water, put a steam pipe through the bung hole into 
the water, turn on the steam, and so boil it. 

Ban-els, to Clean. — Put into the barrel a few lbs. of unslacked 
lime, add water and close tight; let stand awhile, then put in more 
water and roll the barrel; then empty it and rinse out thoroughly 
with clean water. 

To Clean Old Vinej/ar Barrels.— ^F\\\ them with milk of lime 
and leave it in for several months; then rinse them out thoroughly 
with warm water, and steam the inside for ^ hour. Old vinegar bar- 
rels become so imi^regnated with acetous substances that it is diffi- 
cult to render them lit for storing other liquids. 



FEATHERS AND HAIR 

FEATHERS. 

T-^EATHERS, To Clean and Purify. -Put the feathers from 

U(^ beds, pillows, etc., in bags, soak them | hour or so in boiling 

I 7i hot water containing soda, then rinse them well through 2 or 

8 waters and put them through a wringer; shake them up 

and dry in the hot sun, turning occasionally and drying them 

as raiaidly as possible, until apparently dry, and then lay them in a 

warm oven on a board or paper till light and dry. 

Feather jnlloios laid out on clean grass till thoroughly wet 
through during a heavy rain storm will be made fresh and light; dry 
in the shade, but never expose them to the direct rays of the sun. 

A Hint. — Bed ticking which is so thick that the air cannot pen- 
etrate it readily should have a goose quill sewed in each corner to 
admit the air, and thus ventilate the feathers. 

To Clean FeatJiers from tlieir Own Animal Oil. — Steep them 
in 1 gallon of water mixed M'ith 1 lb. of lime; stir them well, and 
then pour off the water, and rinse the feathers in cold spring water. 
To clean feathers from dirt, simply wash them in hot water with 
soajo; rinse in hot water, and dry them. 

Neio goose feathers ivhich have a disagreeable odor may be 
freed from it by washing them in water with baking soda; then rinse 
them in water containing anmionia, then twice in clear water; run 
through the wringer, and dry, 

Swansdo.ivn. — This may be cleaned by tacking strips on a piece 
of muslin; then wash it well, using the best white soap and warm 
water. Rinse in clean cold water, and dry in the wind. Then soften 
the feather by carefully rubbing it between the fingers, after taking 
it ofp from the muslin. It will look like new. 

To Clean White Ostrieh Feathers.— Fveimre a thick, warm 
htther of white soap; let the feathers soak in this a few nnnutes 



FEATHERS AND HAIR 817 

(have a pan long enough to let the feathers lay straight), and then 
draw the feathers through the fingers, using a moderate degree of 
pressure, and repeating until they are clean; rinse in clear, warm 
water to take out the soap, and then in another water containing a 
little bluing, and a few drops of spirits of salt; then draw through 
the fingers to squeeze out all the water possible, shake well, and dry 
before a moderate fire, shaking occasionally. When dry, curl them. 
For crecihi colored fcaflievs wash as above, but omit the l)luing 
and add a little coffee to the last water in which they are rinsed. 
Afterwards the edges may be very prettily 
tinted by using an old red rose leaf, moistened y^^ 

Ihd'ker coloi'ed feathers can be washed in /;# 

the same way, but neither bluing nor coffee '.^^ j^^fe-- K 

should be used in the rinsing water. . ^^ .^TO 1^1^^^^^ 

Grebe Feathers.— These may be washed ^"IflL^ft^^™"^^ 
with warm soft water and white soap, much like j^ ^^-'"^"^ 

white ostrich feathers, but do not shake them ■^^1^^^^\4lii^!^ 

until quite dry. • ^J^- ^^^>f^'^ 

The Gkebe is widely distributed over both the old ^^^-^—■^K./f 

and new world. Its shape is peculiar, the legs being at- gkebe. 

tached so far back that when on land the bird assumes an 

erect posture. The great crested grelje is highly 2">i'ized for the beautiful, shiny, 
silvery feathers on the lower part of its body which are in great demand. 

To Curl Ostrich Plumes. — (1) Heat them over a hot stove or 
flat=iron, and, using a bone, ivory or dull silver blade, draw -the fibers 
of the feather between the finger and the dull edge of the blade; 
begin at the point of the plume, and take not more than 3 fibers at a 
time; curl \ of them the opposite way. If the stem needs bending, 
hold it around a warm stove pipe or lamp chimney. (2) Another 
and easy way to curl plumes is to put sugar or salt on a hot stove, or 
corn cobs and salt on a pan of coals, and hold .the plume in the 
smoke, shaking it about, and turning every j)art to the smoke; the 
more you shake the plume the better it will look; be careful not to 
scorch it. 

BroIxCii Feathers. — A broken feather may be repaired by sewing 
bonnet wire along the under side nicely, choosing silk thread that 
matches the color of the plumo, and using a long buttondiole stitch. 

CJeatiiiuj the FeatJieis on Stuffed Birds.— (1) Naturalists clean 
the feathers of stuffed specimens of Inrds l)y covering them over with 
a thin paste made of common starch and cold water. Let it dry a 
couple of days, and then "fillip" it off gently, beginning at the bircfs 
head and going on regularly down to the tail, which leaves the feath- 
ers beautifully '"plumed." (2) Feathers on stuffed specimens are 
also cleaned by putting on them a paste made of jjipeclay and water, 
rubbing them one way only; M'hen quite dry shake off the powder. 

^^ Setting"' Feathers. — Feathers on stuffed birds may be "set" by 
merely arranging them naturally with a needle, or any pointed instru- 
ment. 

52 



818 CLOTHING AND CLOTH 

To Bleach Feathers. — (1) First remove the oily matter by im- 
mersiiii: them for a short time in iiaptha or benzine; then rinse them 
in the same a second time, and thoroughly dry them by exposure to 
the air. Then bleach them by exposing them to the vapor of burn- 
ing sulphur, in a moist atmosijhere. This process will not injure the 
feathers. (2) Prepare a warm soapsuds (at 175° to 185°) and soak 
the feathers in it a few hours; then suspend them on a thread and 
expose them to the direct rays of the sun, moistening them fre- 
quently. 

Dijing Feathers. — Feathers may be dyed beautifully by using 
the aniline dyes that are put up for dying Easter eggs, etc., and 
which can be bought at the stores. Various colors can be bought, 
and many shades may be produced by combinations of them, and by 
diluting them more or less with water. To produce grey feathers, 
with white spots, fasten thick paper on the places designed to be 
white, and spatter the balance nicely and evenly with India ink or 
brown aniline. 

CURLED HAIR. — To clean this, select a j)leasant day and take 
the hair out of the mattress carefully so as not to be choked with the 
dust. Pick it over thoroughly and wash it through strong soapsuds 
several times, doing only a little at a time. Then rinse thoroughly; 
wring as dry as possible, and spread it out thinly between 2 sheets of 
muslin. Then baste the ends, and quilt it in a few places in the 
middle, and hang it out to dry. Choose an empty room to do it in, 
because of the dust it makes. 



CLOTHING AND CLOTH. 

A"^LOTHING of any kind will last very much longer when prop- 
I \y erly cared for, than it will when carelessly handled and neg- 
Ia] lected. It is surprising how heedless some people are about 
^^ the care of their clothes, and how much can be saved in the 
clothing bill of a family by a little intelligent care. 

The quantity of clothes should be considered. It is a great mis- 
take to think that in order to dress well it is necessary to have a very 
large wardrobe. Too many clothes, are worse than useless. They lie 
unused, soon go out of style, and no benefit is derived from them. 
To dress well at moderate expense, get what clothes you need, and no 
more; take good care of those you have, and when they wear out, 
buy more. This is equally true of underclothing and outside gar- 
ments. Sensible i3eople no longer pride themselves on x^ossessing 
larger stocks of any garments than they really need. 

In caring for clothes as in so many other things, it is of the first 
importance to have a i^lace for everything, and to put everything in 
its place. This is at times a little difficult in small houses where one 
is crowded for room, and yet even here a little planning and manage- 
ment will often accomplish wonders. Any one with the spirit of 
order will find vastly more room than a disorderly and thoughtless 



CLOTHING AND CLOTH 819 

person would think possible. Devise shoe bags, and the many other 
conveniences which the ingenious housewife can make herself and 
utilize so well. 

Never put clothing of any kind away without first cleaning it. 
Look it over also, and make any little repairs that may be needed. 
Clothing which is i^ut away in good condition will come out fresh 
and bright, but if j)ut away dusty and dirty, the dust will take hold 
of it, and it will soon look seedy and ill cared for. On taking off 
woolen goods, see that they are well shaken and brushed; let velvet 
and silkbe wiped with a flannel, and let merino, serge, cashmere, and 
similar fabrics be thoroughly brushed. Put a clothes brush in every 
bedroom, or jirovide enough so that there will be no excuse for any 
member of the family who neglects to use one. Silk dresses should 
never be brushed, but rub them with a soft piece of merino or 
flannel, kej^t for the purpose. 

If caught in ilie rain or when clothing becomes damp for any 
reason, give it immediate attention. Do not carelessly hang it vl]), 
but spread it out to dry, after shaking it well. If creases appear 
when it is dry, iron them out, but on no account put clothing away 
at all damp; that speedily causes mildew. As rain and damp speed- 
ily take the freshness and beauty out of garments, it is always wise 
to wear one's older clothes in unpleasant weather, reserving the best 
garments for pleasant days; the best clothes are not expected in 
unpleasant weather. 

Putting Away ClotJiing. — The manner of putting away clothes 
is important. All skirts, jackets, and waterproofs should have loops 
attached by which they can be hung. The bulging out occasioned 
by hanging directly on a hook si:)oils the appearance of a garment. 
If a skirt is provided with 8 bands— 1 on the right side, 1 on the left, 
and 1 at the back to hold up the drapery (as it should be) it is much 
better to hang it up, than to fold it and lay it away. The best way 
to deal with good dresses is to hang them by their loops in large 
bags made of old sheets. Make these bags to button down the front 
so that the dresses can be put in easily. Stutf out the bows and 
busts with papers — royal ladies always have their dresses put away 
thus, it is said. This will obviate all necessity for turning a dress 
inside out before hanging it up — a process which makes creases, 
spoils trimmings, and tends to make a skirt lie flat. 

When packing away silk or woolen goods which you fear may 
turn yellow, break up a few cakes of white beeswax, fold these pieces 
loosely in old thin handkerchiefs, and i3lace them among the goods 
Pin the goods in old white linen sheets if you have them; if not, use 
cotton. 

Mantles, bodices and waistcoats should be neatly folded, so as to 
keep them as straight as possible, and laid flat on a shelf, covered 
with paper or muslin, to keep them from the dust. They should 
never be hung up. 

Cotton and muslin dresses should not be put away with the 
starch in them, as that tends to make them rot. Leave them rough- 
dried when they are not to be worn for some time, 



820 CLOTHING AND CLOTH 

If silk garments are laid away wrapped in paper, do not use 
white, as the color of the silk may be impaired by the chloride of 
lime^ which is used for bleaching white paper. The best paper to 
use is probably the yellow India paper, and next to that is brown or 
blue. Do not l)uy silk intended for dresses, long in advance of its 
use, as it is liable to crack or split, if kept lying in folds long, espe- 
cially if it is stiffened with gum. 

Bibbons. — The best way to keep ribbons is to roll them round a 
block and then wrap them in soft pajjer. 

Creases. — These can usually be removed with a little effort. If 
a garment is hung before a fire they will often disapj)ear. If not, 
dampen them a little, lay on a jjiece of paper or muslin, and press 
with a cool iron, 

At the close of each season go over the articles which have been 
worn, and sort out and dispose of them, instead of i^acking them all 
away together. Articles which can be worn again should be brush- 
ed, repaired, and put away; those which are to be pulled to pieces, 
should be so treated at once, and cleaned or dyed, as the case may 
be. If left as they are they will deteriorate in condition and occupy 
valuable room. Articles of no further use to you should be given to 
some poor person, or sold to the rag man. 

Having sorted out and cleaned the clothing, pack it away for the 
season. Fold it carefully so that no needless wrinkles will be 
formed, and pack it away in a chest or trunk. Put the heaviest 
articles at the bottom, and lay the others on carefully. A good way 
to pack them is to lay out a sheet in the trunk and lay on a news- 
paper; then lay in the clothing, sprinkling it well with camphor, 
cedar shavings, or any other moth preventive (see our article on 
insect pests), and then, covering it with a newspaper, draw the sheet 
together and pin it so that the edges all overlap each other. Then 
shut and fasten the chest or trunk. 

Men's Clofhiiif/. — This is quite as much benefited by care as 
that of ladies. Coats are best kept in shajje by hanging them on the 
wire frames wdiicli are now so easily obtained, and are so cheaj). 
When a frame is not used hang them by a loop, and not directly on 
the hook by the collar. Brush the coat carefully on taking it off, and 
before putting it away. 

On taking off trousers which have been worn in wet weather, 
and, iDossibly, turned up at the bottom, shake them, pull them out 
lengthwise, and dry them under pressure. Keep them hung up on 
the wire frames, made for the purpose, like the coat frames. A 
trousers stretcher will take out wrinkles and creases and is a good 
investment. If that is not used, nor the wire frames, fold them as 
the tailor folds them before they are laid away. Trousers, like shoes, 
wear longer, and keep in shape better, if 2. pairs are kept and worn 
alternately. Frequent changing and stretching between times, will 
keep them from becoming baggy at the knees. Another good plan 
for hanging them up is to have a pair of suspenders for each pair of 
trousers and, on taking off a pair, to hang them by the suspenders on 



CLOTHING AND CLOTH 821 

2 hooks about as far apart as a man's shoulders. This keeps them in 
shape. Turning them inside out before hanging them up is another 
good plan. 

BnriiiiKj Cloth iitg. — When the clothing takes fire the first im- 
pulse of the victim is to rush somewhere, but that is the worst thing 
to do, as it caus(\s a draught and increases the fiames. A bystander 
should throw the victim on the ground and then try to smother the 
fiames by wrapping her in anything at hand, like a coat, rug, blanket 
or table cover. Try to keep the fiames from the neck and face, 
and from l^eing breathed, so wrap first at the shoulders and then 
work down. A lady who is alone in a house, and whose clothes take 
fire, should sieze anything at hand and at once lie down, wrapping 
herself in it and rolling over. In this way the flames may be extin- 
guished, liut if she runs out intcj the air it will only make it worse. 
If the house was on fire she uiiglit run into the yard and throw her- 
self on the ground, but should go no further. 

At once throwing some fiour, when it is convenient, on the 
clothing which is set on fire by an exploding lamp or the spilling of 
oil, may put out the fiames and prevent a terrible accident. 

Firrpi-oof Clofliiiig. — The following plans for rendering cloth- 
ing uninflammable are the results of many experiments, and are 
taken largely from French and German authorities. Children's 
clothing and muslin dresses, should be fireproofed when laundered. 
( 1 ) Put 1 or 2 oz. of alum in the last water used in rinsing chidren's 
clothes, it renders them less inflammable. (2) Take 8 parts sul- 
phate of ammonia, 2^ parts carbonate of ammonia, 2 parts boracic 
acid, If parts borax, 2 parts starch, and 100 parts water; mix, and 
starch the dresses with this compound, (o) Take 5 parts boracic 
acid, 15 parts sal ammoniac, 5 parts felspar, 1^ parts gelatine, 50 
parts starch, and 100 parts water; mix, and apply with a brush. (4) 
Mix 5 parts alum, 5 parts ammonium phosphate, and 100 parts water. 
(5) Take 8 parts borax, 2| parts E^jsom salts, 20 parts water. (6) 
Use a more or less concentrated solution of sulphate of potassium 
and alum. (7) If fabrics are steeped in almost any saline solution, 
such as alum, borax, sal ammoniac, etc., they will not take fire read- 
ily, and if ignited will not burst into fiames. A simple plan is to 
add aliout 1 oz. of alum to the last water used to rinse a dress, or set 
of Ijed furniture; even a less quantity added to the starch used to 
stiffen them will answer, and may prevent a painful accident. 

Waterproofing Cloth. — (1) Dissolve, sej)arately, equal parts of 
alum, soap, and isinglass, in sufficient water to make a tolerably 
strong solution. Then mix all together, and ai)ply the mixture on 
the wrong side, thoroughly saturating the cloth; then dry it. Then 
brush the cloth thoroughly, first with a dry br^ish, and afterwards 
lightly with a brush dipped in a little water. (2) Cloth coated with 
linseed oil, to which a little wax and litharge have been added, will 
be waterproof. 

To Prcpore OiJed Silk. — Melt and mix well together, 1 part 
beeswax, 3 parts ground litharge, 15 parts boiled oil; add 8 parts of 



822 CLOTHING AND CLOTH 

some coloring matter if desired. Stretch the silk out tight in 
breadths, and apply the mixture with a brush till it is well saturated; 
when dry, the silk will be i^erfectly waterproof. 

Velvet. — Make up articles in velvet the reverse way of the jjile, 
that is so the pile inclines upwards; this will prevent their looking 
white. 

To Restore Crushed Velvet. — Crushed velvet may be restored, 
that is, the pih may be raised when it is crushed or flattened, by 
well steaming the wrong side over the spout of a boiling tea-kettle; 
or, cover a hot flat=iron with a wet cloth, and hold the velvet, nap 
outside, firmly over it, thus steaming it; then gently comb up the 
nap. 

Cuts or faults in velvet or plush are concealed by very careful 
seaming on the wrong side. Insert the needle half the thickness of 
the material, leaving no stitches visible on the upper surface, and 
the sewing is drawn till the edges just meet, and no more. Be care- 
ful to work in all stray filaments, so that no fluffiness disturbs the 
smoothness of the pile. 

Faded Plush or Aniline Dijed Articles. — When, from expos- 
ure to light, plush goods, or any articles dyed with aniline colors, 
become faded, if they are sponged over with chloroform their color 
will be fully restored. Use commercial chloroform, which is cheaper 
than the purified. 

Marks on Plush. — These may be removed by holding the 
wrong side over steam, and combing up the pile. 

Dress Mending. — Instead of patching a round hole in a silk or 
woolen dress, carefully smooth the frayed parts about the tear, spread 
thin mucilage or the gum tragacanth paste given among our pastes, 
on the under side, lay on a piece of the same cloth, place on a heavy 
weight and let it dry. The patch can hardly be noticed. 

GLOVES — Care of Gloves. — When taken off they should be 
smoothed out lengthwise and laid away flat. Keep them dry, and 
away frcjm the light and air. Gloves rolled together after being 
taken off will soon look shabl)y. If gloves do not go on readily, 
breathe in them, or warm them gently before the fire, or lay them for 
3 or 4 minutes in a dami) (not wet) towel. Do not attempt to j)ut 
on the thumb until the fingers are in, working them quite to the end. 

To Clean Kid Gloves. — (1) White and light colored kid gloves 
may be cleaned by putting them on, and, filling a bowl with corn- 
meal, dip in the hands and rub them thoroughly with the meal, as 
though washing the hands; or dip a piece of fiannel in the meal and 
thoroughly rul) it on the gloves. It cleans them nicely. Undressed 
kid may be best cleaned in the same way. (2) Dip a piece of fiannel 
in milk, and then rub it on good glycerine or yellow soap, and, be- 
ginning at the wrists, rub towards the tips of the fingers; first, how- 
ever, lay the gloves out smoothly on a clean cloth. Leave till dry, 
then pull gently in all directions till soft. If the gloves have been 
made too wet, they must be fitted on the hands again when half dry. 



CLOTHING AND CLOTH 823 

(3) Put the gloves on, and wash the hands in gasoline or benzine. 
This cleans kid well, especially white, but fades some colors. * The 
unpleasant odor soon evai^orates. (4) Rubbing v^'ith stale bread 
crumbs cleans gloves sufficiently sometimes. 

To Renovaie Black Kid. — Mix a little good black ink with a 
little castor or salad oil; apply it with a sponge or flannel, and dry in 
the sun. 

Dijiug Glares. — Light colored kid gloves may be dyed black as 
follows: Take a bowl, put in ^ cup of logwood chips, cover them 
with alcohol, and let stand 24 or 48 hours. Then put on the gloves, 
take a piece of flannel and dip it in the solution, and rub it on the 
gloves over every part; let it dry, and re^jeat the operation. To clije 
yellow. — A simple decoction of onion peel is said to produce upon 
glove leather an orange yellow superior to any other. Aniline col- 
ors can be employed without any previous preparation of the leather. 
The bluish tin I so much liked in black gloves, is obtained l)y wash- 
ing the finished article with a solution of sal ammoniac. White 
gloves may be given a pretty shade, by dipping them in strong 
coffee. 

Buckskin Gloves. — To clean: (1) Wash 3 times in clean (not 
hot) soaj) lather. Put in a little blue, wring them well, and put 
them in as good form as you can; when nearly dry, but sufficiently 
damp to form to the hand, put them on (if difficult to get them on 
dampen a little); then press or push them off, dry, away from the 
fire, and they will be as good as new. (2) Take ^ lb. Paris white, ^ 
lb. scraped pipeclay, and 3 oz. best isinglass; boil all together, stir- 
ring while boiling. Lay this compound on thick; when dry, beat it 
out by clapping the hands well together, brushing, etc. Then care- 
fully iron the gloves with a hot smoothing iron. 

Washleather Gloves. — Take out grease spots by rubbing with 
magnesia or cream of tartar. To wash ( 1 ) make a strong lather with 
curd soap and warm water; lay the glove flat on a board or other un- 
yielding surface; dip a piece of flannel in the soap lather, and rub 
the glove thoroughly, in every part, till all the dirt is out, then rinse, 
first in warm water and then in cold. Dry in the sun or before a 
moderate fire. (2) Put the gloves on the hands and wash them with 
soap and lukewarm water. When quite clean, pull them off care- 
fully, and lay them in the sun to dry; put them on before they are 
quite dry, and stretch them to keep them from getting hard. 

Suede, Buch'skiii or Cha))iois Gloves are sometimes cleaned by 
rubbing them with stale bread crumbs. Or mix powdered alum and 
fuller's earth, dip a stiff brush in the mixture and rub the gloves 
with it. 

Clotli Gloves. — To clean these, pour in a bowl a little of the 
cleaning compound No. 3, given elsewhere, and wash the gloves in it; 
when nearly cleaned rinse them in a clean lot of the same solution; if 
very dirty rinse again; then rub with a soft flannel cloth to smooth 
out the wrinkles, and dry them. 

Gloves of all kinds are better and more shapely if put on wood- 
en hands or glove trees to dry, when wet by washing them. 



824 CLOTHING AND CLOTH 

BONNETS AND HATS.— To Clean Strmu Bonnets.— They may 
be washed with soap and water, then rinsed in clean water, and dried 
in the air. Afterwards wash them over with white of egg, well beat- 
en. The wires must be removed before washing. (2) Wash white 
straw hats with a citric acid sohition, as directed for men's white straw 
hats (which see). {'A) Black hats can he washed with clear strong 
coffee, then apply 3 coats of good liquid shoe polish or blacking, let- 
ting each coat dry before aijplying the next. The hat will look like 
new. 

To Dtje Stroiv Bouiwis.^For BhicJx: l)oil 2 lbs. logwood and | lb. 
fustic together for 4 hours; remove all wires, and boil the bonnets in 
this first; then atld ^ lb. green copperas, and reboil the articles 1 hour 
longer, expose them to the air for 10 minutes, then place them in the 
liquid again for 1 hour; then dry and brush. This will suffice for 12 
bonnets. For Bi'owii : take h Ih. iuntic chips, ^ lb. of peachwood, | 
oz. of madder; boil these for 4 hours; add -| lb. of green copperas; boil 
for 2 hours; dry and brush. For Gray: boil f oz. of cudbear for 3 
hours; add 2 oz. blue paste; mix with as much water as will cover the 
bonnets; let them remain in soak 10 clear days; rinse and dry, and 
they are ready for blocking. This is sufficient for 6 bonnets. For 
red: prepare a potash lye, and boil in it some ground Brazilwood, 
making it strong or weak to suit; then put in the straw goods, and 
boil them. 

Size for Colored Straw Bonnets. — Break up 1 lb. best glue, put 
into a vessel with 4 quarts cold water, and let soak for not less than 
12 hours. Then pour it, water and all, into a sauce^pan, and put it 
over the fire to dissolve; keep it well stirred, and be careful not to let 
it boil. When it is all well melted strain it into an earthenware pan, 
and use it while scakling hot. The bonnets as they are taken* out of 
this size must be sponged as dry as possible, the shape regulated, 
and then hung ujj to dry. This quantity is sufficient for 12 bonnets. 

Parchment Size for Straw Bonnets, Silks, Etc— Well wash 1 lb. 
of parchment shavings or cuttings, in 2 or more lots of cold water; 
then put them into a sauce pan, or other vessel, with 4 quarts of cold 
water, and let them simmer gently until the quantity is reduced to 2 
quarts. Strain through a fine sieve and it is ready for use. One tea- 
cup of this is sufficient to stiffen 1 bonnet, or to mix with 1 quart of 
water for finishing silks. 

To Bleach Cliip and Straw Goods. — First clean, by washing in 
warm soap liciuor; brush them well, both inside and out, then rinse 
them well in cold water, and they are ready for bleaching. To 
Bleacli. — (1) Put a small quantity of oxalic acid into a clean i3an, 
and iwur on it sufficient scakling water to cover the bonnet or hat. 
Put the article into this liquor, and let it remain in it for about 5 
ininutes; keep it covered by holding it down with a clean stick. Dry 
in the sun or before a clear fire. (2) Having first dried the bonnet 
or hat put it, together with a saucer of burning sulphur, into a box 
with a tight closing lid, Cover it over to keep in the fumes, and let 
it remain a few hours. The disadvantage of bleaching with sulphur 
is that articles so bleached soon become yellow; when bleached by 



CLOTHING AND CLOTH 825 

oxalic acid they do not. To Finish or Stiffen.— AHer cleanine: and 
bleaching; white bonnets should be stifiFened with parchment size. 
Black or colored bonnets are stiffened with a size made from the best 
glue. 

Straw or chip plaits, or Jjcghorn hats and bonnets may also be 
cleaned and bleached, and finished as above. 

Blacti Varnish for Cliip and Straw Goods. — A good black var- 
nish is easily prepared for chip and straw goods \^dlich gives them a 
fine gloss. Crush 2 oz. good black sealing wax, and put it in a bottle; 
add 8 oz. 95° alcohol. Cork and set in a warm place, shaking it 
from time to time until the sealing-wax is cut. When it is applied 
have both the article and varnish warm. 

Felt Hats. — Wash them with a hot solution of soda, or sesqui- 
carbonate of anunonia. Then, if white, cover the hat with a paste 
made of pipeclay and water, tempered with white precipitated chalk. 
When dry, rub and brush off. See also the cleaning compound No. 
3, given elsewhere, for a good article to use. Grease and paint 
stains can be removed with turpentine; if the turpentine leaves a 
mark, rub with alcohol or benzine. 

To MaJce Felt Hats Waterproof. — Remove the lining, and jjaint 
the inside of the hat with Canada balsam, made hot. Hats made 
waterproof and not ventilated will bring on premature baldness, so 
j)unch a few small holes in the side. 

Men's Wilde Straw Hats. — These may be readily cleaned by ( 1 ) 
using a nail brush and brushing them over quickly with soap and 
water, then press them into shape and they will be stiff when dry. 
(2) SjDonge them with a solution of 1 part citric acid to 20 parts 
water (some people rub them with a lemon cut in two); then rinse 
thoroughly with clean water and dry in the sun, and they will be 
beautifully l)leached. Stiffen, if needed, with gum water. 

Black straw Jiats in being cleaned should be dusted and brush- 
ed; they Yfiay then be rubbed all over with a mixture of good black 
ink and liquid glue. 

To Renovate Hcd Bands. — Take 8 oz. alcohol and dissolve in it 
2 oz. aqua ammonia, 2 oz. sulijhuric ether, and 3 oz. white castile 
soap; rub this on briskly with a tooth brush or cloth, and then rinse 
off with soft water, and dry. 

A Wet Silt: Hat. — Shake off the surplus water, and, with an old 
soft silk handkerchief, rub it gently the way of the nap; then hang it 
up in a warm room, away from the fire, to dry. When dry, brush it 
with a soft brush, and with a moderately hot flat=iron smooth it 
around the way of the nap. 

Biilf/es or indentations iji a s//A' liat may be removed by warm- 
ing it (by steam is preferable) and pressing them out with a hot iron; 
attempts to restore the shape by other means will probably result in 
cracking the hat. 

Label children's Jtats plainly with the name and place of resi- 
dence of the wearer; then if the child is lost it can be readily return- 
ed to its home. 



826 CLOTHING AND CLOTH 

UMBRELLAS. — Wet umbrellas slioukl be placed handle down- 
ward to dry. In that way they dry uniformly. If stood handle up- 
wards the water will gather at the lowest point and the lining will 
hold the moisture and cause the silk to rot. Do not leave them open 
to dry; the tense condition stitfens the silk and it cracks sooner. If 
tightly rolled and put in umbrella cases, the friction of the case 
wears many tiny holes. Many an umbrella is ruined by being 
wedged into a crowded umbrella stand. Keep your umbrella in 
your own room, out of the case, and stood handle down; thus you will 
get the most possible wear out of it. To clean ivorij and metal hand- 
les see our articles on "Ivory" and "Metals." 

PARASOLS. — To renovate them, sponge with warm soap and 
water, and iron them, while damp, on the inside, with a smoothing 
iron. If the silk is very dirty it will be better to sponge it with gin, 
or spirits of wine; in this case, iron on the right side, first spreading 
on thin paper to prevent glazing. 

FUR. 

To Clean. — (1) Soap and water will 
spoil fur. Get some clean common 
whiting (powdered, and plenty of it) 
and put it in a damp place for a day or 
so, but on no account let it get wet; 
rub it into the fur with the hand, and 
don't be afraid to rub it; then leave it 
till next day, and give it another good 
rubbing; then shake out all the whiting beavek. 

you can, and give it a good brushing 

with a clothes brush. It will now be quite clean, except the skin at 
the bottom of the fur. To remove the dirt from thence, get the fur 
over the back of a chair, and brush very briskly with the point of 
the clothes brush, giving a jjutf of wind with every stroke of the 
brush. With a little patience every trace of whiting, grease and dirt 
can be removed. Lastly, pour a little spirits of wine on a plate, dip 
the point of the clothes brush in this, and pass it lightly over the 
fur, moving the brush the way the fur lies. (2) Take equal parts of 
flour and powdered salt (which should be well heated in an oven) 
and thoroughly rub the fur. It should afterwards be well shaken, to 
free it from the flour and salt. (3) Lay the fur on a table, and rub it 
well with bran, made moist with warm water. Rub until quite dry, 
and afterwards with dry bran. The moist bran should be put on 
with flannel, and the dry with a piece of book muslin. (4) Rub 
light colored furs, in addition, with magnesia after the bran process. 
Dry flour may l)e used instead of the wet bran. Rub the wrong way 
of the fur to clean; then smooth the right way. 

The Beaver is found throughout North America. It is usually about 2 feet in 
length. Its fur is of a chestnut brown, and is very thick, short and soft. Its flesh 
is very oily, but is much esteemed for food. 




CLOTHING AND CLOTH 



827 





Ermine may be renewed and 
cleaned by rubbing it from time 
to time as it becomes soiled, with 
cornmeal. It is also cleaned 
sometimes by rubbing in dry 
powdered starch. 

The Ebmine is a little animal much 
like the weasel. The best skins come 
from Russia, Norway and Sweden, The 
ermine is about 10 inches long, exclu- 
sive of its tail. In summer it becomes 
a reddish brown color and is then called 

Stoat. Ermine was long considered as the royal fur. It is very serviceable, as it 
wears well and can be cleaned many times. It looks particularly well for child 
ren's wear. 

Sealskins — If a sealskin has been unfor- 
tunately wet, do not attempt to rub olf the 
moisture with the hand nor with soft cloths or 
any thing else, and do not j)ut it in a aro-ni room 
to dry — that will flatten it. Merely spread it 
out in a cold room until it is dry, before at- 
tempting anything else. Beat the fur thor- Siiifli- 
oughly, and be sure it is perfectly clean before seal. 
it is put away for the summer. Camphor should uol be placed near 
sealskins, as it causes grey streaks to appear in it. 

The Seals from which the fur is obtained are found principally near Green 
land and Newfoundland. The skins are dyed a rich Vandyke brown, that hue being 
considered preferable to the natural color, which is of a yellow or golden shade 
The fur is very warm and very durable. 

In piitHiuj (tuji furs away 
for the siniDiier they should be 
perfectly clean — that is of tlie,^'/'s/ 
importance. Brush them, shake 
them, beat the firmer sorts with a 
cane, air them, and wrap them first 
in linen bags, and afterwards in 
brown paper bags, j^asting up all 
openings carefully. Newspajjer is 
not strong enough for the outside 
wrapper, but may be used inside. 
Put with them either a little camphor, cedarwood or cloves, or best 
of all, dust them over freely with good fresh insect powder. (Never 
put camphor near sealskin.) Chinchilla is too perishable to be' 
shaken. Furs may be put in paper boxes, but the cracks should be 
tightly pasted over with paper. Any article of fur previously at- 
tacked by moths, should be carefully examined in July, to see that 
none are present, notwithstanding the other precautions. Lavender 
put wnth furs is one of the best protections against the attacks of in- 
sects. 

The CniNcniLLA is a little rabbit like animal found only in South America. 
The fur is not very serviceable as it fades quickly, and it will not bear long or 
rough usage. 




CHINCHILLA. 



TO EEMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 

To Restore CriisJied Fur. — Fiii^s, after having been put away 
for the summer, sometimes look rough and crushed. To correct this, 
take a hair brush, wet it, and brush the fur the wrong way; then dry 
for about 30 minutes, after which beat it well with a light cane, on 
the right side; then use a coarse comb and carefully comb down the 
fur the right way. 

To Dye Fur. — For blue, -take 1 part blue vitriol^ 7 ijarts log- 
wood, 22 iDarts water; mix and boil. For Brown, use logwood (the 
tincture only). For Purple, use 6 parts alum, 11 parts logwood, 29 
parts water. For red, the ingredients are, 1 oz. cochineal, 1 lb. 
ground Brazilwood, and 3 quarts water; the mode is to first put the 
Brazilwood in the water and boil an hour; after which strain, and 
put in the cochineal, and boil again \ hour. 

To Clean fJie Fur on Stuffed Aninials. — First, give the animal 
a good brushing with a stiff clothes brush. After this, warm a quan- 
tity of new bran in a pan, taking care it does not burn, to prevent 
which keep stirring it. When warm, rub it well into the fur with 
your hand. Repeat this a few times, then rid the fur of the bran, 
and brush it sharply until free from dust. 



TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS. 

NE of the common perplexities of the housekeeper is to re- 
move spots and stains from different articles. The great dif- 
ficulty often is to remove the stain without injuring the deli- 
cate tints of the fabric. Stains may be divided into 3 classes. 
(1) Simple stains, produced by 1 substance, and which may 
be removed by 1 agent. (2) Mixed stains, produced by 2 or more 
substances conjointly, and requiring the application of several clean- 
ing agents. (3) Stains j^roduced by substances which alter or de- 
stroy the color. Following we give a synopsis of the best plans in 
use for removing stains, arranged for convenient reference. 

In rul)l)ing fabrics to remove stains be careful to always rub 
the way of the stuff, and not indifferently backwards and forwards. 

If colors have been changed by vegetable or dilute mineral acids, 
they can usually be restored with dilute annnonia. If that is not suf- 
ficient the spot must be wet with a mordant and the requisite dye 
Ijainted in, in which case the spot must be continuously rubbed with 
a pledgit of wool, so as to spread it equally and leave no sharp line of 
demarkation. 

Before attempting to remove a stain from colored goods, experi- 
ment on some unseen part and see if the artilce you expect to use 
affects its color. 

Injured Co/ors.— Colors (excejDt • some shades of red) which 
have been destroyed by acid, can usually be restored by first apply- 
ing ammonia to neutralize the acid, and then apj)ly chloroform which 
will restore the color. Colors injured by alkalies, should be treated 
first with dilute acid to neutralize the alkali, and then with chloro- 
form. 



TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 829 

Any color damaged by ammonia, used to neutralize acids, can be 
restored by applying chloroform. 

Articles died with aniline colors, when faded by exposure to 
light, may be restored by sponging- them over with chloroform. 
Connnercial chloroform, which is cheaper than the purified, can be 
used. 

A Hint.— In using benzine, turpentine, or other solvent for 
grease, people generally make the mistake of wetting the cloth with 
the benzine, or whatever is used, and then rubbing it with a sponge 
or cloth. This dissolves the grease, but spreads it over a greater 
space without removing it. The best way is to place a piece of blot- 
ting paper underneath, then saturate the cloth with the benzine, or 
whatever is used, then lay another piece of blotting paper on top and 
press it with a tlat=iron. The grease will be dissolved by the solvent, 
then absorbed by the paper, and so all removed. 

We explain below the properties of some of the more common 
and useful cleaning agents. 

Alcohol.— This is always obtained from the fermentation of sugar, starch, or 
other saccharine matter. It readily dissolves fats (although less readily than ben- 
zine or ether) resins, iodine, salts, alkaloids, etc., making it a useful cleaning 
agent. 

Ammonia.— This is a transparent, pungent gas, formed of nitrogen and hydro- 
gen. Water will take up 750 times its bulk of this gas, forming aqua ammonia or 
hartshorn. It has so many domestic uses that a bottle should be kept in every 
family. It is especially valuable for removing grease spots from clothing, etc. It 
is one of the best antidotes for mineral poisons. When the stronger kinds are 
used for cleaning, etc., care should be taken not to breathe it too freely, lest it in-' 
jure the delicate lining of the nose and lungs. It is an alkali, and will neutralize 
acid stains. Before applying it to any colored article, try it first on some unseen 
part to see if it affects the color. 

Benzine. — This is also called benzole and phene. It is known in chemistry as 
hydride of phenyl. It is a hydrocarbon, obtained from coaloil. It is sold under 
the name of "benzine collas''' for 3 or i times its real value. It has many domes- 
tic uses, being an excellent solvent for India rubber, wax, camphor, fats and oils. 
It is extremely volatile, and should on no account be used by lamplight, or near a 
fire. Iveep it tightly corked at all times. As a cleaning agent for grease spots, 
etc., it hardly has an equal; but it does not remove sweat stains, nor stains from 
alkali, acids, sugar, milk, etc. It does not injure the most delicate fabric. 

Chloride of Lime. — This is extensively used for bleaching textile fabrics, 
and for removing fruit and red wine stains. Its action on the fabric may be 
checked by immersing it in aqua ammonia or in a solution of hyposulphite of 
sodium. 

Chlorofoem. — This is a colorless liquid which evaporates readily, but it is not 
inflammable like ether and benzine. It readily dissolves fats, fatty oils, resin, 
wax, India rubber, etc., making it a valuable cleaning agent, but great care should 
be taken not to inhale its fumes on account of their well=known stupifying effect. 

Citric Aoid. — This will remove blue or crimson spots on scarlet, and it 
revives certain colors, like yellows and greens; it also neutralizes alkalies. Acetic 
or tartaric acids are cheaper, and can always be used in its place for all cleaning 
purposes, which our readers will do well to remember. 

Ether. — This is prepared from a mixture of alcohol and sulphuric acid or 
vitriol. It is colorless and very volatile, audits vapor mixed with a large amount 
of air is very explosive so that it should never be used near a light or Hame. It 
readily dissolves fats, resins, wax, balsams and bitumen, making it a useful clean- 
ing agent. Great pains should be taken not to inhale its fumes. 

Glycerine. — This is a colorless, viscid fluid, of a sweetish taste. It is soluble 
in water or alcohol, but not in ether, benzine or chloroform. It is a solvent for 
alkalies, alkaloids, dye^stufifs, etc. 



830 TO KEMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 

Hydrochloeio Acid. — This is also called muriatic acid and spirit of salt. It is 
composed simply of chlorine and hydrogen. It is a powerful acid, but is one of 
the most useful acids known, enormous quantities being used in the arts. It should 
be kept in a bottle with a ground glass stopper, plainly labeled, kept from child- 
ren, and used with care, but it has many domestic uses, such as removing stains 
from furniture, glass and other ware, clothing, etc. It is alluded to many times in 
our pages. 

Oxalic Acid. — Tliis is one of the vegetable acids. It much resembles Epsom 
salts, and is sometimes mistaken for it. It is an active poison, and should be kept 
in a glass bottle, clearly labeled and carefully guarded. It is used to remove spots 
of ink and iron, the stains of urine, fruit, astringent juices, etc. It is best used on 
light goods, as it attacks light and fugitive colors. It should be diluted in cold or 
lukewarm water, as it attacks the texture of the cloth if undiluted. 

Ox=GALL,. — It is best to purify this before using it. Mix it with an equal 
amount (by weight) of alcohol; let stand a few days, shaking it occasionally, then 
filter, and evaporate it down to the consistency of syrup. It readily dissolves fats, 
and cleans woolens better than soap. It should be used cautiously, as it gives 
light and delicate colors a green or greenish yellow tint if used too strong. For 
cleaning silks, etc., it is often mixed with yolk of egg, fuller's earth, honey, turpen- 
tine, alcohol, etc. 

Salts of Sorrel (often improperly called salts of lemon). — This is really 
binoxalate of potassium, and is formed by combining oxalic acid and potassium 
carbonate. It is used to remove ink stains. 

Spirits of AYine is the same as alcohol, but it contains more water. 

Turpentine. — This is distilled from the sap or juice of the pine or fir tree. 
It readily dissolves fats and resins, but is not equal to benzine for general clean- 
ing. The idea that it increases the luster and softness of silk fabrics is a mistake. 

Yolk of Egg. — This if kept too long loses its value as a cleaning agent. Its 
cleansing properties are similar to those of ox=gall. Sometimes it is mixed with 
the oil of turpentine for use. 

Acid stains. — Most acids produce red stains on blacks, blues 
and violets, made from vegetable colors (except indigo). The best 
treatment for all acids is to at once apply some strong alkali, like 
ammonia, soda, or potash — (ammonia is best). Afterwards wash 
with water. Red stains can thus be removed. If the acid was very 
strong, the fabric will probably be destroyed, as well as stained. 
Then there is no remedy. The brown stains of nitric acid are nearly 
hopeless. Repeated moistening with a very strong solution of potash 
permanganate (or as a weak substitute use Condey's fluid), followed 
by rinsing with water, is the best thing. A color injured iDy an acid, 
which is not restored by the ammonia (or other alkali) used, can fre- 
quently be restored by using chloroform afterwards. 

Alkaline Stains. — (1) For white goods wash merely. For col- 
ored woolens, cottons, silk or satin, moisten the stain first, and then 
cautiously apply dilute acetic acid with the finger=end; when the 
stain disappears wash well in clean water. (2) If delicate colors are 
injured by soapy or alkaline matters, renew the dye by applying col- 
orless vinegar of moderate strength. 

Albumen. — Merely wash the article in clear water to remove it. 

Alizarine Ink. — On linen, use a solution of tartaric acid; the 
older the stain the stronger the solution nmst be. On cotton, woolen, 
or silk, use dilute tartaric acid, if the colors will bear it, but use 
great care on silk. 

Aniline Stains. — For aniline inks, or other aniline stains (1) 
wash with alcohol containing some acetic acid; if, however, the col- 
ors of the fabric will not stand acetic acid, use alcohol alone. (2) Try 



TO EEMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 831 

a solution of sodium sulphite. (3) Same as "Alizarine Ink" (which 
see." 

Beer. — Wash in soa^jy, and then in clear, water. 

Blood. — (1) Merely wash with clean water. (2) Make a thick 
paste of cold water and starch and apply it to any article you do not 
wish to wash, and place it in the sun for 2 hours; then brush off, and 
if any trace remains, repeat. 

Coffee and Chocohdc. — (1) Apply a mixture of glycerine and 
yolk of egg; then wash out with warm water, and while still dami^, 
iron on the reverse side with a moderately hot iron. (2) Wash them 
in very hot water, soai) carefully, and then expose to sulphur fumes. 
(3) On woolen goods, mix 1 oz. glycerine, 9 oz. water, ^ oz. aqua 
ammonia; apply repeatedly, press between a cloth, and rub with a 
clean rag. Steam a little if needed, and the stain will be gone. .(4) 
Delicate colored silks are more difficult. Mix 5 parts of glycerine, 
5 parts of water, and J part of ammonia. Apply it, to test it, on 
some unnoticeable place; if, after drying, it atfects the color, leave 
out the ammonia; if not, apply to the stain with a brush, leave on 
over night, and then rub with a clean cloth; then remove the dry sub- 
stance with a knife, brush over with clean water, and press between 
cloths, and dry. Now, if needed, rub with dry bread. Restore the 
finish with a thin solution of gum arable. 

Dust. — Beating and brushing merely, will remove these stains 
from white and colored cotton goods. For old dry stains on colored 
silk and woolen goods, apply alcohol mixed with yolk of egg, let dry, 
and scrape off; wipe away remaining traces of the egg with a linen 
rag dipped in warm water. 

Fruit. — (1) Most spots may be removed without leaving a stain 
by rinsing in cold water containing a little ammonia, before the sjjot 
has dried. (2) For colored cottons or woolens, wash with tepid 
soapsuds or ammonia. Silks the same, with gentle rubbing. For 
linen (table cloths, etc.) or while cotton, use warm chlorine water, or 
submit to the fumes of bur;iing sulphur (strike a match and hold it 
so that its sulphurous vapors will be diffused over the stain — using 2 
or more if necessary). After washing, the stain will vanish. (3) 
Spread the stained fabric on the ground in the open air; smear the 
spot with soap, and sprinkle on common salt; wet, and as it dries, 
re=wet. Wash after 2 or 3 hours, exposure, and the stain will usually 
be gone. (4) Rub the spot on each side with hard soap; then lay 
on a thick mixture of starch and cold water, and rub it well into the 
spot; afterwards expose to the sun and air; after 3 or 4 days repeat if 
necessary. (5) Apply salt of sorrel, or a solution of soda hypochlo-, 
rite; wash it out carefully when the object is attained, the latter 
particularly. (6) Wash fresh stains in kerosene as you would in 
water. 

For sour and acid fruits, see vinegar. 

Grass. — (1) Rub on molasses thoroughly; then wash with clean 
water. Repeat if necessary. (2) For white goods wash in boiling 
water. For colored goods, whether cotton, woolen, silk, or satin, 



832 TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 

damp with a solution of tin chloride; then wash out at once with an 
abundance of clear water. (3) Eor light dresses wet the stained 
part with alcohol; rub well, and the green will be removed. 

Grdvif. — For these stains on delicate silks, first use soap and 
water to take out the salts and vegetable matter; then turpentine or 
benzine to take out the grease and oil. After taking out a stain the 
gloss may be restored to silk by sponging it with gum water, made 
with either gum arabic or gum tragacanth; stretch out the cloth 
smoothly to dry. 

Grease. — (1) For linen, use soapsuds or alkaline dyes. For 
cotton, use lukewarm soapsuds. For woolen use soapsuds or am- 
monia. For silks, use benzine, ether, ammonia, chalk, magnesia, or 
yolk of egg with water. (2) For very delicate fabrics, ether or chlor- 
oform will take out grease, but the more lightly and briskly they are 
applied the less danger of injury to the goods; as both quickly evap- 
orate it is needless to use water afterwards. (3) In applying chalk, 
magnesia, etc., to a delicate silk do not wet them; apply them dry to 
the spot, rub them lightly with the finger, and after a time brush off. 
On other goods they can be applied as a wet j)aste, and rubbed off 
when dry. (4) Use turpentine or benzine. A very old or thickly 
crusted spot, may often advantageously be softened by a warm flat= 
iron, shielded by a thick paper, before applying the turpentine or 
other solvent. (5) Spread down blotting paper or chalk, lay on the 
goods, cover with the same, and apply a hot iron — not hot enough 
to scorch, however. 

For Wagon Grease: On linen use soap or turpentine, alternating 
with a stream of water. On cotton or woolens, rub with lard or but- 
ter, then soap well; wait a little and wash alternately with turpentine 
and water. On silk, same as for cotton, but use benzine instead of 
turx^entine, and let the water fall on it from some height. 

Machine Grease or Oil: This generally contains, besides the 
grease, oxide of iron worn off the machinery, etc.; therefore, first re- 
move the grease with benzine, turpentine, or ammonia, then treat 
the spot with oxalic acid, chloride of lime, or, on delicate materials, 
with lemon juice, to take out the iron. After using these agents 
always rinse the fabric well with water. 

Gelatine and Glue. — ( 1 ) Merely wash in clean water. (2) For 
glue, moisten in steam, immerse in hot water, and rub. 

Green Nuf SJiells or Tannin. — On linen, use warm chlorine 
water, javelle water, or concentrated solution of tartaric acid. On 
cotton, woolen, or silk, wash several times alternately with water and 
chlorine water, diluted more or less according to the colors. Use 
care on silk. 

Glim. — Cut it with alcohol or benzine; or treat it like wax 
(which see). 

Ink. — For black or nut gall ink: (1) Put at once into milk; 
while there, rub gently for a few minutes. If allowed to dry, ink 
is more difficult to remove, but can be with a little effort, but use 
hot milk. (2) Soak the spot with ripe tomato, rub a little, and 



TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 883 

then wash. The stain does not entirely disappear until after the 
washing. (3) Pour on kerosene oil and rub with the hand; repeat 
the operation if necessary. (4) Apply pure melted tallow and leave 
1 or 2 days; then wash out the tallow and the ink will come with 
it. (5) On cotton, M^oolen, or silk, saturate with turpentine, leave 
on several hours, and rub between the hands; the ink will crumble 
away. On linen, use tartaric acid. (6) Stretch the article over a 
warm flat^ron, and squeeze on a few drops of lemon juice. (7) 
Moisten it with strong salt water, and then sponge with lemon juice. 
(8) Treat old ink=stains first with proto chloride of tin, to deoxidize 
the iron, and then with dilute oxalic acid. On white goods, touch 
the part stained with a dilute solution of chloride of lime; then 
wash thoroughly. (9) On white goods, use warm oxalic acid or di- 
lute muriatic acid with little pieces of tin. On fast dyed woolens 
and cottons apply acetic acid carefully and repeatedly. On silks, 
efforts are nearly useless. (10) Delicate colors will be injured by 
oxalic acid or similar articles. For these, carefully apply a weak 
solution of pyrophosphate of soda, using a small brush ; repeat sever- 
al times, and the ink will be removed without injuring the article. 
Then rinse out with clear Water. 

Remove any ink spot before washing the article, or the soap will 
"set" the stain and make it very difficult of removal. 

Aniline inks: Treat the same as "Aniline Stains" (which see). 

Indelible or Marking Inks: (1) Mix 1 part cyanide of potassium 
in 4 parts water; soak the spot in this a few hours and it will fade 
out. (Highly poisonous, so handle carefully.) (2) Steep about ^ 
hour in chlorine water; then wash with ammonia; then with clear 
water. (3) First soak in strong salt water; then wash with am- 
monia. (4) With a small brush (camel's hair) apply a saturated 
solution of cyanurate of potassium; then wash in clean cold water. 
(5) To a solution of strong cyanide of potassium add a few grains 
of iodine. Repeated applications will remove any stain caused by 
nitrate of silver. 

Printer's Ink: Put the stained parts of the fabric into a quantity 
of benzine; then use a fine, rather stiff brush, with fresh benzine; 
dry, and wash clean with warm water and curd soap. The benzine 
will not injure the fabric or dye. 

Red Ink: (1) -Same as number 2 given for "Fruit" (which see). 
(2) Moisten the spot with strong alcohol acidulated with lytric acid. 

Iron Mold and Rnst. — (1) Wet the spot with lemon juice, 
sprinkle on salt, and hold over the spout of a boiling tea=kettle, or 
expose to the sun. (2) On linen dip the spot in sour buttermilk and 
dry in the sun; rejjeat several times if necessary. (3) Wet the spot, 
place the linen over a pan of hot water, and put a little salts of lemon 
on the spot; as soon as the stain disappears, wash it in clean water. 
(4) Wet the spot and lay on powdered oxalic acid or cream of tartar; 
rub in well, and then wash off with clean water. The cream of tartar 
is effective only on stains of recent date. (5) Same as number 9 
given for "Ink Stains" (which see). (6) On silk or satin goods 
53 



834 TO KEMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 

moisten with strong vinegar, leave covered for some time with beech- 
wood ashes, and finally wash in strong soapy water. (7) Wash the 
soiled spot in kerosene as you would in water; apply before using 
soap, or it is useless. 

Lime and Lye. — Same as " Alkalies" (which see). 

Lubricah'ng Oils. — See " Machine Grease." 

Mildew. — (1) Soak the spots in sour milk or buttermilk, and 
then exjjose to the hot sun; then rinse in clear water. (2) Moisten 
both sides with lemon juice, cover with a paste of soft soap and chalk, 
and sun for ^ hour; repeat till gone. (3) Dilute hartshorn will take 
mildew from woolen goods. (2) On cotton or linen first wet with 
soapsuds; then mix equal quantities of soft soap and chalk, and ap- 
ply it; then spread it out on a tin dish, and expose all day to the hot 
sun; repeat if necessary. (5) Dip the s^jot into a weak soluti(m of 
chloride of lime, and expose to the sun a few minutes; repeat till it 
disappears, and then rinse thoroughly in clean water. On almost 
any fabric chloride of lime will remove mildew, but as this turns most 
colors it must be used with care. (6) Mix soft soap with powdered 
starch, add half as much salt, and the juice of a lemon; a^jply it to 
both sides of the cloth and expose to the hot sun. 

Mercurial Ointment. — This produces very persistent stains. To 
extract them, wash the spot with a hot solution of soda (1 part soda 
to 50 of water), and when the grease is removed rub over with a 
rather strong solution of clear chloride of lime. If the article is col- 
ored or delicate, benzine must be used instead of the soda solution. 
Apply to both sides of the material. 

Mtlk. — For white goods, wash thoroughly in soapy or lye water. 
For colored cottons or woolens, use benzine or turpentine; wash 
afterwards in soapy water if needed. For silks or satins, use the 
purest benzine. See number 4 for " Grease." 

Molasses. — Same as "Sugar" (which see). 

Mud. — (1) In many cases the best treatment is to let the mud 
dry without brushing; when fully dry, brush oif. (2) For mud stains, 
first remove the vegetable matter with soap and water; then use 
cream of tartar to remove the iron often present in mud; then wash 
with clean water. (3) Oxalic acid is often used to remove traces of 
mud which do not yield to other agents. 

Rust. — Same as "Vinegar" (which see). 

Nitrcde of Silver. — (1) Apply chloride of copper; then touch 
with a crystal of hyposulphite of soda; then wash with water. This 
can be applied to colored woven cotton tissue. For white cottons 
and linens, use dilute solutions of j)ermanganate of potash and hy- 
drochloric acid, followed by the hyposulphite of soda and clear water. 
(2) Moisten the spot with a solution of bichloride of mercury. (3) 
Moisten repeatedly with a weak solution of cyanide of potassium, and 
rinse thoroughly in clear water. 

0//.— Same as "Grease" (which see). 



TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 835 

Paint. — (1) For new stains, saturate as often as necessary with 
equal parts of turpentine and ammonia; when quite softened, wash 
out with soap and water. (2) For old, dry stains, apply olive oil or 
butter; when softened use chloroform; or, instead of chloroform, use 
turpentine first, and then benzine, (o) Patient, continuous rubbing: 
with chloroform, will remove paint from black silk or other material. 
(4) For silks and satins, spread on a thin paste of ether and carbon- 
ate of magnesia; after the ether evaporates, brush away the magne- 
sia, or rub with crumbs of bread (5) Use turpentine to remove the 
oil, and oxygenated water to oxidize the lead, and finish with dilute 
acetic acid; if the paint contains oxide of iron, oxalic acid can be 
used, while copper colors must be treated with ammonia. 

Peach Sf(ti)is. — These may be removed from a table cloth by 
holding it over a basin and pouring hot water through. See also 
" Fruit." 

Perspiration. — (1) Apply first weak ammonia; then bichloride 
of tin. If the color is not altogether destroyed this will restore it. 
If the color is permanently affected the only remedy is to apply the 
appropriate mordant, and then paint on the requisite color. (2) Ap- 
ply a solution of hyposulphite of soda, and then bleach if the goods 
are white. 

Pitch.— See " Tar." 

Punch Stains. — Wash in soapy, and then in clean water. 

/S'co?'c/ies.v— Apply soapsuds and let them lie in the sun. If that 
fails, put 1 lb. white soap in 1 gallon milk, and boil the articles in it. 
See also " The Laundry." 

Sauce. — Apply benzine or turpentine to remove the grease or 
oil; then ammonia to neutralize the juice or vinegar in the gravy; 
finally clean water to take out the blood, etc. 

Sealing Wa.jc.—{1) Warm and apply strong methylated spirits. 
(2) Use strong alcohol. 

Soup. — Same as "Milk" (which see). 

Sfearine or Spermaceti.— Use strong 95^ alcohol to cut it, on 
any kind of goods. 

Sug((r. — Wash in clean warm water. 

Tannin or Tanning Juices. See '' Green Nut Shells." 

Tar and Pitch.— {1) Rub well with clean lard; then wash with 
warm water and soap. (2) xA.pply olive oil: then benzine or turpen- 
tine. (3) Use strong alcohol. (4) On silk or satin, rub with clean 
lard; then soap well, and leave it on some time; then wash alter; 
nately with benzine, and water falling on the underside from some 
height. Treat carefully. (5) Mix turpentine and yolk of egg and 
apply; when dry, scratch it away, and wash thoroughly in hot water. 
(6) For silk or satin, moisten and then rub with ether or chloroform; 
then lay on chalk or pipeclay; then blotting paper, and pass a hot 
iron over it. 

Tea Stains. -~{l) Place a bowl under the fabric and pour clear 
boiling water through the stain. (2) Apply equal part§ of ammonia 
and alcohol; then wash in tepid soapsuds. 



836 TO REMOVE SPOTS AND STAINS 

Urine. — (1) Wash out with alcohol or dilute citric or acetic acid. 
(2) Same as number 1 given for "Perspiration" (which see). 

Varnish or Ecsin. — (1) Warm; ai)ply strong methylated spirits. 
(2) Use chloroform, l)ut with care. (3) Use turpentine or benzine, 
and then soapsuds. For silk, use benzine or ether, and then soap, 
but with care. 

Vegetable Dyes. — Same as number 2 given for " Fruits " (which 
see). 

Vinegar and Acid Fruits. — (1) For white goods, wash in clean 
water to which ammonia has been added; or, if a fruit stain accom- 
panies the acid, wash with water, and follow with chlorine water, 
(2) For colored cotton, woolen, silk or satin, moisten carefully with 
dilute ammonia; then wash in clean water. (3) Apply a thin paste 
made of prepared chalk and water; this will be preferable for delicate 
colors. 

Walnut Stains. — Same as "Green Nut Shells" (which see). 

Water. — If water falls on ■ some kinds of silks, satin, or woolen 
fabrics, it dissolves away a part of the dressing, causing a dull spot on 
the glossy ground; to remedy this, steam the material till it is all 
equally moistened; it may then be hot=i)ressed, or if small, ironed 
with a hot, but perfectly clean iron. 

Wax. — Remove what you can with a knife; place a wet linen 
beneath, cover the stain with several layers of blotting paper; and 
pass a hot iron over; the heat melts the wax, and the paper absorbs 
it. Remove any remaining trace with benzine. 

Whitewash Stains. — Wash at once in vinegar; that will usually 
restore them. 

Wine. — (1) Dip the stained part into boiling milk; keep the 
ihilk boiling until the stain disappears. (2) For port and claret 
stains, apply a little salt, and then moisten with sherry. (3) SoajD 
the stain; then burn sulphur under the large end of a i^aper funnel, 
and direct the small end to the spot on the cloth. (4) For sour wine, 
same as "Vinegar" (which see). (5) On white goods, rinse with 
water, apply a weak solution of chloride of lime, and rinse again 
freely. Restore the dressing by steaming, starching, and pressing. 

Red Wine Stains: Same as number 2 given for " Fruit" (which 
see), 

CLEANING COMPOUNDS.— A^o. i.— Take | oz. oil of sassafras, 
^ oz. chloroform, | oz. ammonia, 1^ oz. alcohol, 1 teaspoon pulverized 
borax; mix, shake well, and add 1 quart of deodorized gasoline; then 
bottle for use. This is a splendid cleaning compound to keep in the 
house. It will clean ribbons, neckties, ruching, carpets, greasy 
clothing, etc. For paint, soak the spot in kerosene oil, and then 
apply this mixture. 

No. 2. — Scrape \ oz. Castile soap, dissolve it in 1 quart warm 
water, and as it cools add ^ oz. glycerine, ^ oz. sulphuric ether, and 1 
oz. alcohol; keep in well corked bottles. Excellent for grease spots, 
etc. 



CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. 837 

No. 3. — Take 1 drachm alcohol, h drachm chloroform, ^ drachm 
sulphuric ether, 1 pint deodorized benzine; mix, and add enough 
cologne to give a x^leasant odor. This is excellent for cleaning cloth 
gloves, felt hats, coat collars, etc., and is useful to keep on hand for 
removing grease spots, etc. Make double the quantity if desired. 

No. 4. — Take fresh calcined magnesia, and mix it into a thick 
paste with pure benzine. Kee^) in a wide mouthed, tightly corked 
bottle. Apply to grease spots, etc., and, when quite dry, brush off. 

No. 5. — Equal parts of ether, alcohol and strong ammonia form 
an excellent cleaning compound. 

No. G. — Grate a i)otato to a pulp, and add water in the propor- 
tion of a pint to a joound; let stand, and when clear pour off the clear 
part, and bottle. Apply to grease spots, etc., with a linen rag, and 
follow it with spirits of wine. 

Lifjhfuiiif/ Ei-adic(dor. — Into 3 cups warm water put 2 oz. finely 
shaved castile soap, 2 oz. strong annu: nia water, 2 teaspoons pow- 
dered saltj^etre; mix well, and let stand 4 days before using, keeping 
it in a wide mouthed, well stox)ped bottle. Rub it well into a grease 
spot, and rinse then with clean water. Useful also for washing deli- 
cate colored articles. Diluted with water and sprayed on plants it will 
kill any insects which infest them, and act as a fertilizer as well. It 
may also be added to the water for shampooing the head. 

Sco!(ri)ifj Balls. — Dissolve ^ lb. white soap (shaved fine) in spir- 
its of wine; add 8 J- drachms of turpentine and the yolks oi 4 eggs; 
add enough magnesia to make it stiff enough to form into balls. 
Moisten the stain, rub with the ball, let dry, and wash with soft 
water; repeat if needed. 

Black Berivcr. — (1) Take 1 quart of water, and add 2 oz. pow^- 
dered Aleppo galls, 2 oz. logwood, and 1 oz. gum arable; boil till re- 
duced ^; then add 1 oz. sulphate of iron. Useful to renovate faded 
mourning dresses, old black coats, trousers, etc. (2) Put a quantity 
of fig leaves in water, and boil till the liquid is reduced ^; apply it 
with a black cloth. Useful to take stains out of black cloth. 



CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. 

EjMENT for (t)i Aqiiariinu. — Take by measure 10 parts of 
litharge, 10 parts of plaster of paris, 10 parts dry white sand, 
and 1 part finely i^owdered resin. Mix them with boiled lin- 
seed oil into a pretty stiff putty wdien wanted for use. This' 
will stick to wood, stone, metal or glass, and harden under 
water. Do not use the tank for 3 days after cementing it. 

General Ufilili) Cement. — A splendid cement is made by mixing 
together litharge and glycerine to the consistency of syrup. It will 
resist acids, water, heat and cold. Let the cement fully harden be- 
fore using the article. It is a general utility cement, and will hold 
lamp tops, stone jars, stop cracks in iron kettles, etc. 



888 CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. 

Cement to Attach Glass and Metal. — Mix together 1 oz. spirits 
of turpentine, 2 oz. linseed oil varnish, and 4 oz. of thick glue; then 
put them in a close vessel and boil. Apply to the glass and metal, 
fasten them firmly together, and let dry for 3 or 4 days. 

All Eitra Cciiieut. One of the strongest cements known is 
made by mixing powdered flint glass, ground to an impali^able pow- 
der, with the white of an egg. 

Colored Glass Cement.— li finely pulverized chalk is stirred into 
a solution of soluble glass until the mixture is fine and plastic, a ce- 
ment is obtained which hardens in G or 8 hours and possesses remark- 
able durabilty. It may be used for about the same purposes as plas- 
ter of paris, but is much harder and stronger. If some coloring 
matter is substituted for part of the chalk different colored cements 
result. Thus vermillion will make a splendid red cement; carmine, a 
violet; cobalt blue, a blue; carbonate of copper, a bright green; 
gray antimony, a dark cement; zinc gray, a hard gray cement, which, 
burnished, appears like metallic zinc, and can be used to mend 
zinc vessels. The cement also sticks to stone, wood and metals. 

Cement for China, Etc. — Mix plaster of paris into a strong solu- 
tion of gum arable until it attains the right consistency. Apply with 
a brush to the fractured edges, and let it dry for 3 days. This 
cement is white and very strong. 

Transparent Cement for China, Glass or Earthen Ware. — A 
transparent cement can be made by dissolving Russian isinglass in 
gin with a gentle heat, and when it is fully melted and well mixed 
strain through a thin cloth; then bottle and cork tight. It will 
easily dissolve with a little heat, and should be warmed before using. 
Apply with a small brush to the edges of the broken ware, and then 
tie them together, letting it dry for several days before using. 

Cement for Porcelain. — (1) Take 1 part of pulverized gum ara- 
ble, and 2 parts of finely=powdered oyster shells, and mix them 
together thoroughly. Keep in a tightly corked bottle. For use, rub 
up enough of this wnth the white of an egg to make a thick i3aste, 
apply it to the broken edges, and dry with a gentle heat. (2) An- 
other cement for porcelain is simply thick whitelead paint. 

Cement for Stone and Marhle Slahs. — Mix hydraulic cement and 
water glass together to a thick dough; apply to the broken edges and 
bind together until dry. It soon hardens, so that very little should 
be made at a time. 

Cement for Glass. — Dissolve fine glue in strong acetic acid to 
form a thin paste. 

Cemeid to Fasten Glass Letters Upon IVindoivs, Etc. — Take 1 
part India rubber, 3 parts mastic, and 50 parts chloroform. Let the 
mixture stand several days in a closed vessel, and apply rapidly. 

Cement for CrocJcerij, China, Marlde, or Glassn-are. — Thor- 
oughly mix lime and the white of an egg. Apply quickly to the 
edges, place them firmly together and it soon sets. Mix but little at 
once as it hardens quickly. This is rci-y sli'oiig and easily made. 



CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. 



839 



Cement for Stoneware. — Take a strong solution of cold alum 
water and mix plaster of f)aris into it. It sets slowly, but becomes 
very hard. Useful also for many other articles. 

To Cement Wood to Stone. — Take 4 parts pulverized chalk, 4 
parts pitch and 1 part beeswax. Melt and mix; warm before using. 
Apply thinly to the places to be joined. 

To Cement Plaster of Paris. — Cover the broken surfaces with 
melted shellac, press firmly together, and leave till cold and hard. 

Cement for Rnhher. — (1) Dissolve strips of India rubber in 
naphtha, or sulphide of carbon, to a stiff paste. Naphtha should not 
be used in doors, or near a fire. Or (2) dissolve small pieces of gut- 
ta-percha in benzine to a thin paste. This makes an admirable 
water= tight cement for bottles by simply corking them and dipping 
the stoppers in it. It dries in a few minutes, and will mend rubber 
overshoes, etc., fasten backs on books, or rips in upholstery, and is 
generally useful. Keep in a tightly=corked bottle. 

Cement for Hard Rubber. — Fuse together equal parts of genu- 
ine asphaltum and gutta-percha. Apply hot to the edges, and press 
together immediately. 

Cement for Fastening Rubber, Gutta- 
percha, Leather or Cloth to Metal. — Take 4 lbs. 
of the best glue, 4 "oz. of saltpetre, 4 oz. gum 
ammoniac. Warm the glue over a fire till it is 
all dissolved, then add the gum ammoniac and 
thoroughly mix. Now put in the acid and thor- 
oughly mix. Have the metal surface warm and 
dry when applied. 

GuTTA=PEBOHA is the dried milky juice of a tree found 
in the tropics. The method of gathering it is similar to 
that used for India rubber, but it differs from rubber in 
being almost non«elastic. It, however, has many commer- 
cial uses. 

Cement for Rubber, LeatJier, Cloth or Metals. — Fuse together 
equal parts of gutta-percha and pitch. Use hot. A valuable cement 
for various uses. 

Cement for Leather or Rubber. — Dissolve 1 oz. gutta-percha in 
\ lb. chloroform. To apply, clean the parts with benzine, apply the 
cement to each part and let stand 20 or 30 minutes; then warm both 
by a candle flame, and squeeze together until dry. 

Cement for Closing CracJcs in Stoves. — Get finely pulverized 
iron at the druggist's, and mix with liquid water-glass to a thick 
paste. Coat the cracks with it and the hotter the fire the more com- 
pletely will the crack be closed. 

A Fireproof Cement. — Mix 2 parts sifted wood ashes, and 1 part 
air slacked lime, with sufficient boiled linseed oil to make a smooth 
paste. It hardens quickly to the solidity of stone, and can be used 
around fireplaces, stovepipes, chimneys, etc. It is waterproof also. 

Waterproof Cement. — Take 4 oz. shellac and 1 oz. borax; boil 
in a little water until dissolved, and concentrate to a paste by heat. 




GUTTA=PEBOHA. 



840 CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. 

Cement for Cracks in a Plastered Wall. — Take equal parts of 
water and silicate of potash; then mix in ordinary whitini^ to the 
right consisteney. It may be applied with an old case knife; let it 
harden about 50 or ()0 minutes; then smooth it ofp. 

CcDunit to Resist Petroleum. — Boil 1 part of caustic soda and 3 
parts of resin in 5 x^arts of water; afterwards mix in half its weight 
in plaster of paris or precipitated chalk. The j)laster hardens in 
about 40 minutes. 

Acid Proof Cement. — Take a concentrated solution of silicate of 
soda, and mix to a paste with jjowdered glass. 

Rice Cement, Paste or Glue. — Mix equal quantities of rice and 
Hour thoroughly in water and gently simmer the mixture over a clear 
tire. It forms a delicate and durable cement. 

Japanese Cement. — Take rice flour or powdered rice and mix it 
intimately with cold water; then boil it to form a thin paste. It will 
be beautifully white, dries almost transparent, and is adapted for 
work requiring any strong and colorless cement. Also, much less 
water can be used, and in this way a preparation can be formed thick 
enough for modeling figures, ornaments, busts, etc. 

Diamond Cement. — Place a tin dish in a pan containing boiling 
water, and put in it 1 lb. white glue and 1 quart soft water; when 
this is dissolved stir in 4 oz. white lead and boil till all is well mixed. 
Then take off the stove; after it is cold stir in | pint alcohol. Bottle 
at once; keep tightly corked. 

Cement for Bone and Ivory. — (1) Boil colorless isinglass in 
water till it forms a thick solution; then make to the consistency of 
honey by adding washed zinc white, and use. (2) Melt together at 
moderate heat, resin, white wax and oil of turpentine, till a thick 
fluid mass is formed. Color, if desired, with red lead, ultramarine 
blue, etc. 

Cement for Ivory or Mother of Pearl. — Dissolve 1 oz. of isin- 
glass and 2 oz. white glue in 30 oz. water; strain and evaporate to 6 
oz. Add ^ drachm of gum mastic dissolved in ^ oz. of alcohol; add 
1 oz. white zinc. For use, warm and shake well; also warm the 
broken edges. 

Cement for Meerschaum. — Use quicklime mixed to a thick 
cream with the white of an egg. 

Cement for Bottle Corks. — Use pitch, hardened by the addition 
of resin and brick dust. 

To Weld Horn. — Pieces of horn may be joined by heating the 
edges until they are quite soft, and pressing them together until 
they are cold. 

Waterproof Glue. — A glue which will be impervious to water 
may be prepared by boiling -| lb. glue in 1 quart of skimmed milk. 

To Strengthen Glue. — (1) Mix powdered chalk into it. (3) It 
is said that white lead added to glue makes it waterproof, and 
strengthens it. 



CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. 841 

Liquid Ghie. — Dissolve 2 oz. good glue in 4 oz. cider vinegar. 
If too thick, add more vinegar; if too thin, more glue. Easily made 
and good, but use genuine vinegar. 

Liquid Glue for Labeling on Tin.— Take 1 quart boiling water, 
2 oz. pulverized borax; add 4 oz. gum shellac and boil till dissolved. 

Prepared Glue. — Take a wide=mouthed bottle, and put in 8 oz. 
best glue and \ pint of water. Set in a kettle of water and heat until 
the glue is dissolved ; then stir in slowly 2| oz. of strong nitric acid. 
Keep tightly corked and it will be ready for use always, and very 
strong. 

Marine Glue. — (1) Dissolve 20 grains of caoutchouc and 2 fluid 
ounces of chloroform, and add 4 drachms of powdered mastic; let it 
macerate for a week. Keep cool and cork well. (2) Dissolve by 
heat 2 oz. of pure India rubber in naphtha; when melted add 4 oz. 
shellac; melt until mixed; pour while hot on metal plates to cool; 
when required to use, melt and apply with a brush. 

Glue to Resist Fire. — Mix a handful of quicklime in 4 oz. of 
linseed oil; then sj)read on tin ijlates in the shade and it will become 
exceedingly hard, but may be easily dissolved over the fire and used 
as ordinary glue. 

MUCILAGE AND PASTE. 

Preserving Mucilage and Paste. — A few drops of oil of cloves, 
or of alcohol, or any essential oil, will preserve a quart of the muci- 
lage of gum arable or gum tragacanth from turning sour. A little 
dissolved alum will jjreserve flour jDaste. Adding a little carbolic 
acid, will prevent mold in pastp or mucilage. Anything strongly 
odoriferous, like bergamont, clove oil, etc., mixed in paste preserves 
it iudefinitely from the attacks of insects. 

Best Mucilage. — Dissolve gum tragacanth in water; then add a 
few drops of oil of cloves and a pinch of alum. 

Mucilage for Labels, Etc. — Mix 2 oz. of dextrin, 1 drachm of 
glycerine, 1 oz. of alcohol with 6 oz. of water. 

Fastoiing on Labels. — For attaching labels to tin and other 
bright metallic surfaces, first rub the surface with a mixture of muri- 
atic acid and alcohol; then apply the label with a very thin coating 
of i3aste and it will adhere almost as well as on glass. Labels that 
are exposed to acid fumes or damp may be attached with any good 
paste, and, when dry, coated wilh copal varnish. If neatly done the 
appearance is very good, and the moisture and acids have no actionr 
on them. 

A Strong Mucilage, which keeps well, is formed by mixing equal 
parts of powdered gum arable and gum tragacanth, and dissolving 
them in dilute acetic acid. 

Postage Stamp Mucilage. — Take 2 oz. dextrin, 1 oz. of acetic 
acid, 5 oz. water; dissolve them by the aid of heat, and add 1 oz. 
spirits of wine. 



842 CEMENTS, PASTES, GLUES, ETC. 

A Paste Thai Will Keep for 3fonths.^{l) Take 4 oz. flour, 
^ oz. finely powdered alum, and mix very smoothly; then add water 
and boil i>ently. When taken off the fire stir in a drachm of essential 
oil of cloves. Put in a jar, cover over, and it will always be ready 
for use. (2) Boil gum tragacanth in water until thin enough for 
paste. Add a little cologne to prevent its molding. Excellent and 
strong; will stick to leather or cloth as well as paper. 

Paste That Will Adhere to Whitewash and All Plastered 
Surfaces. — Soften 9 ll)s. of finely=powdered bole in water; next boil 
f lb. of glue, adding it to the above, with 1 lb. of gypsum. The 
whole is to be diluted to a thin paste. When putting fine paper on 
old walls it is well to coat them with a foundation paper, using this 
paste. 

Paperhanger's Paste.— (1) To each pound of sifted flour add a 
teaspoonful of crushed alum, and mix with boiling water in the usual 
way, stirring constantly. (2) Use 1 pint of rye flour to 1 gallon of 
soft water; put it into the water while cokl, put over the fire, and stir 
till boiling hot. Have ready 1 oz. of alum and h oz. white glue, dis- 
solved in water, and stir them in. t>hould the paste become thick as 
it cools, stir in boiling soft water till it is very thin. Excellent for 
everything but the most delicate papers. (3) Use clear corn=starch 
prepared the same as for starching clothes. A little carbolic acid 
added will guard against vermin. 

A Hint. — Adding either copperas or cayenne pepper to the paste used for 
hanging paper will jireserve it from the attacks of mice. Alum added to the paste, 
injures crimson colors in " flock papers," and should not be used for such. 

Strong Paste for Pasteboard. — Mix 30 parts of starch and 20 
parts of cold water till it becomes a laerfectly smooth paste. Gradu- 
ally add to this an equal amount of very thin hot glue, which must 
])e kept at the boiling point. Add a little carbolic acid, and heat the 
whole mass for a few minutes. 

Scrap-hook Paste. — (1) Dissolve a piece of common glue, 
inches square, in water; add as much pulverized alum by weight as 
there is of glue; then mix ^ teaspoon of flour in water, stir it in, and 
boil all. When nearly cold stir in 2 teaspoons of oil of lavender. 

(2) Dissolve 1^ teaspoons of powdered alum in enough water to 
make 1 pint of paste; when dissolved, pour it onto flour enough to 
thicken it as stiff as common paste; bring to a boil, stirring it all 
the time; when done add a few drops of oil of cloves. Excellent. 

(3) Take ^ pint of water, 3 drachms gelatine, 1 oz. rice starch; heat, 
with constant stirring, till the milky liquid becomes thick and 
glassy; add a few drops of oil of cloves. Keep in a tight bottle. 

Paste to Mount Photographs. — Mix good starch with cold 
wa-ter enough to moisten it, and thin down to the proper consistency 
with boiling water; add a little camphor to keep it good; strain 
through a fine cloth to prevent any lumps. 

To Stick Paper to Metal. — Dip the metal into a strong and hot 
solution of washing soda, and rub dry with a clean rag. Then apply 
onion juice to the surface of the metal and any paper or label will 
adhere very firmly. 



INKS, STAMPING PREPAEATIONS, ETC. 843 

To Make Sealing Wax.— Red.— Melt 1 lb. shellac and 2 lbs. 
resin; mix in | lb. of Venice turpentine and red lead. Same propor- 
tion for less quantity. Black, the same, but color with lampblack 
instead of red lead. 

Sealing Wax for Fruii Owis.— Take 8 oz. resin, 2 oz. gum 
shellac, | oz. beeswax; melt all together. Melt and use as wanted 

Shoemaker's iro.r.— Take 4 lbs. resin, 1 lb. pitch, 4 oz. bees- 
wax, 3 oz. best sperm oil. Boil and pull. 



INKS, STAMPING PREPARATIONS, ETC. 

f RESERVING /«/r. — Adding a little carbolic acid will 
prevent mold in ink; so will adding a few cloves; besides 
which the latter will impart an agreeable odor to it. 

Ink Potcder. — Take 7 oz. copperas, 7 oz. gum arable 
and 1 lb. nut galls; pulverize and mix. This amount of 
powder will make 1 gallon of good black ink. To i^revent its mold- 
ing, add 2 or 3 powdered cloves to each pound of powder. 

Red Ink. — Half a drachm of jjowdered lake, and 18 grains of 
powdered gum arable, dissolved in 3 oz. of ammonia water, makes 
one of the finest red or carmine inks. 

To Improve the Color of Ink. — To 1 pint of common black ink 
add 1 drachm of impure carbonate of potassa. In a few minutes it 
will become jet black. Be careful the ink does not run over during 
the effervescence caused by the potassa. 

Cai-hon Ink. — Use genuine India ink rubbed down with good 
black ink until it will flow easily from the pen. This ink resists 
chlorine and oxalic acids. 

Drawing Ink. — Dissolve shellac in a hot water solution of 
borax, and rub up in this solution a fine quality of India ink. Dip 
the pen in alcohol and wipe dry after using. Very black, and indel- 
ible. 

India Ink. — Take thin gum water, or a thin size of isinglass 
and water, and work into it enough of the finest lampblack to make 
a thick paste; scent it, if desired, with a few drops of musk, mold it 
into sticks, and leave it to dry. For common purposes it will equal 
India ink. 

Blue Wriiing Fluid. — Dissolve basic or soluble Prussian blue in 
pure water. This is the most permanent and beautiful ink known. 

Indelible Ink. — A strong solution of Prussian blue, dissolved in 
distilled water, with good' ox^gall, makes an ink which turns black 
and cannot be erased. 

Indelible Ink for Marki)ig Cloth. — Take 1 oz. of rain water 
and dissolve in it 2 drachms gum arable, 5 scruples nitrate of silver, 
and 1 scruple of indigo. Nothing better made. After marking the 
goods, heat with a hot iron or dry in the sun. 



844 INKS, STAMPING PREPARATIONS, ETC. 

Ink for 3I(irl-iit(/ Packages. — Take lampblack and mix it thor- 
oughly with sntficient turpentine to make it flow freely from the 
brush. Powtlered ultramarine instead of lampblack makes a flne 
blue mixture for the same purp)ose. 

Invisible Ink. — (1) A solution of chloride, or nitro=muriate of 
cobalt turns green when heated, and disappears again on cooling. 
(2) Write with sweet milk or a solution of 1 teaspoon of white sugar 
dissolved in 1 cup boiling water. On heating it turns brcnvn. 

(rold Ink. — Take equal parts honey and gold leaf; triturate until 
the gold is reduced to the finest state of division possible; agitate 
with 30 parts water and allow it to settle. Decant the water and 
repeat the washing several times; finally dry the gold and mix it with 
a little weak gum water for use. 

Silver Ink. — Use silver leaf instead of gold leaf and proceed as 
above. 

Copying Ink. — Add 2 parts of glycerine to 4 parts of common 
violet ink. With good copying paper it will copy without a press. 

Enduring Ink. — Take 1 gallon rain water, 6 oz. powdered nut- 
galls, 4 oz. copperas, 2 oz. gum arable, 2 oz. brown sugar; powder, 
mix thoroughly, and shake occasionally for 10 days. Will endure for 
centuries and may be used for records, etc. 

Indestrucfihle Ink. — Mix 4 parts oil of turpentine and 1 part 
genuine Trinidad asphaltum; color with plumbago for black, or ver- 
million for red. Will resist fire, etc. 

To Erase Ink. — To erase black ink use oxalic acid or javelle 
water. To erase ruling inks mix 1 oz. acetic acid and 1 oz. saturated 
solution of chloride of lime; use when fresh. 

Note. — If in erasing ink the blue lines on writing paper are taken out also, 
they can be marked in again with a solution of common bluing such as is used in 
washing clothes, adding a litttle ox=gall to make it flow well. 

To Restore Obliterated Iid{. — (1) With a brush apply a solu- 
tion of potassium ferrocyanide ; if any of the iron of the original ink 
is left the writing will appear in blue. (2) If the paper has been 
immersed in sea or salt water, remove the salt by washing in warm 
water, and then soak it in a weak solution of gallic acid, say 3 grains 
to the oz. (3) Wash in clean water, and soak in a solution of photo- 
sulphate of iron (10 grs. to the oz. ). 

To Prevent Ink from Son ring. — Add to each pint bottle a few 
drops of clove oil or carbolic acid. 

To Preserve Steel Pens. — The acid in inks eats steel. If some 
pieces of iron or steel (like old i^ens, nails, etc.,) are put in the ink 
the acid exhausts itself on them, and will not thereafter attack the 
pens used. Pens stuck in lime or pearline when not in use, will be 
kept from rusting. 

Stencil Ink. — Dissolve in a little boiling water 1 part borax and 
1 part shellac; dilute to the consistency of thin syrup with hot water. 
To produce a red ink add logwood; for a blue ink add Prussian blue. 



INKS, STAMPING PREPARATIONS, ETC. 845 

Ink for Leather. — Dissolve 1 ijart gum arable and 1 part cop- 
peras in a little boiling water; add a little extract of logwood. 
Dilute with hot water if it gums. 

TuJx for Glass. — Rub up with strong gum arable equal parts of 
iron scales (hammer scales) and lampblack. Can al.so be used on 
earthenware or china. 

Ink for Zinc. — (1) Take 1 dr. sal ammoniac, ^ dr. lampblack, 
1 dr. verdigris, and mix with 10 dr. water. This is indelible on zinc 
Or, (2) take 1 part gum arable, 1 part dry bichloride of platinum, 10 
parts distilled water; mix. This ink is black and resists acids or 
water. 

To Mark Silver With a Black That Will Never Go Off.— 
Pulverize burnt lead; then incorporate it with sulphur and vinegar to 
the consistency of a paint, and write with it on silver plate. When 
dry, heat it a little before the fire and it is complete. 

To Mark On Steel. — (1) Warm it and cover with a thin layer 
of wax or tallow. Then write with a pointed Instrument which will 
penetrate through the wax to the steel. Then joour nitric acid over 
the surface and leave a few minutes, and wash off with water. Clean 
off the wax and the writing will appear engraved on the steel. (2) 
Another method is to dissolve sulphate of copper in water so as to 
make a liquid, like ink, and add a little sulphuric acid; write with 
this, using a quill pen; copper letters will be formed on steel or iron. 

Copijing i)aper. — For a hlactx paper make a thick paste by mix- 
ing cold lard and lampblack; spread the mixture on the paper with a 
cloth, and then rub with flannel until no more color comes ofP. For 
a i'ed paper proceed in the same manner, but use Venetian red in- 
stead of the lampblack. For blue, use Prussian blue. For green, 
use chrome green. By using alternate sheets of writing pajjer and 
any of these sheets, and writing on the top sheet with a solid pen, 
several copies may be produced at once. 

Copijing Paper (German Process). — Soak 4 parts of the best 
glue in a mixture of 5 parts of water and 3 parts of liquor of ammo- 
nia till the glue is thoroughly softened. Warm it till the glue is 
dissolved, and add 3 parts of granulated sugar and 8 parts of glycer- 
ine, stirring the whole well and letting it come to the boiling point. 
While the mixture is hot, paint it with a broad brush on clean white 
blotting paper until the latter is thoroughly soaked and a thin coat- 
ing remains on the surface. Let it dry for 2 or 3 days and it will be 
ready for use. The writing or sketch to be copied is done with ani- 
line ink on writing pajjer. Before transferring it to the blotting 
paper, wet the latter with a sponge or brush and clean water, and 
allow it to stand for 2 minutes. Place the written side on the blot- 
ting pajjer, and press out air bubbles; after a fev.- moments of gen- 
tle pressure, remove the written paper. A number of copies can then 
be taken; when the Impressions grow faint, damp the surface of 
the blotting paper again. It works like a hectograph, and makes a 
fair substitute for that. 

Powder for Slawjn'iig Velvet. Plush and Felt.— {1) Take 1 oz. 
English resin, 1 oz. gum demar, 1 oz. gum copal, 1 oz. gum sandarac, 



846 A FEW USEFUL ARTICLES 

3 oz. dry white lead. Mix. After stanipini,^ the goods wring a cloth 
out of gasoline and lay over the stamping for about half a minute; 
then remove, and let it dry in. New and excellent. This makes a 
white powder. Blue powder may be made the same way, except 
leave out the white lead, and substitute 1 oz. gilding powder and 8 
oz. ultramarine blue. (2) Take equal parts of pulverized gum demar 
and white resin, and add enough Persian blue to color to suit. 

To Gild upon Silk, Saiin, Etc.— Mix together 8 parts distilled 
water and 1 part nitro=muriate of gold in solution; dip a brush in 
this fluid, and trace out on the silk or satin, the pattern or design; 
while still wet, expose it to a stream of hydrogen gas; then wash in 
clean water and the gilding will be finished. 

Common Soin' is prepared by stirring into clean water sufficient 
oil of vitriol to make it taste sharp. Used in working various textile 
fabrics. 

A Luhi'icator. — Mix 1 part fine black lead ground perfectly 
smooth, with 4 parts of lard. 



ejj^t) 



A FEW USEFUL ARTICLES. 

HE following list is not intended to be complete, but is de- 
signed to call attention to a few very useful articles which 
may to advantage be kept on hand by housekeepers. All 
miscellaneous articles should be very clearly and plainly la- 
beled, so that no mistakes can occur in their use, and most 
of them should be kept locked up in the storeroom, if there is one. 
See also the articles given under " Removing Spots and Stains." 

Alum. — This has some medicinal properties, being good to stop 
nose bleed, check diarrhea, etc. A hot solution of alum makes a 
most excellent insect destroyer, as elsewhere explained. It is useful 
for some cements, and if mixed with starch lessens the intlammabil- 
ity of clothing. It is a powerful astringent, and is used in medicine 
as such. 

Borax. — This is a compound containing boracic acid and soda. 
It has many domestic uses. It will soften hard water, and is very 
useful in washing clothes, and if i^roperly used will greatly reduce 
the amount of soap required. It does not injure the texture of the 
cloth like sal soda. If added to the water in which the hands are 
washed it keeps them soft and white. It will drive away many in- 
sects, and will be very useful to keep in the house. It is also used 
for setting mineral dyes. 

Charcoal. — This has so many uses that it should be kept on 
hand in every family. Both the wood and animal charcoals are use- 
ful. The best wood charcoal is not made from either the hardest or 
softest woods. It should be pulverized while still hot, and kept in 
closely stoppered, wide mouthed bottles, as it is nearly valueless 
unless fresh. It is an excellent deodoi'izei', makes a good tooth4)ow- 
der, is valuable in preserving meats etc.. purifies water, and it has 
many medicinal virtues, especially for diseases of the digestive sys- 
tem. Its use is often referred to in our pages. 



A FEW USEFUL AKTICLES 847 

Disiiifccfaiits. — We have elsewhere discussed the merits of 
the more common disinfectants. The great value and impor- 
tance of their use is now so well understood that every family 
storeroom should contain at least one or two of the more useful 
kinds, like carbolic acid and copperas or chloride of lime, and they 
should be freely used when occasion calls for them. Common salt 
is a great disinfectant. SoajDSuds with salt added until it is a 
strong brine should be used for the first water when clothing is 
washed which has been used by a person sick with a contagious 
disease. 

Javelle Water. — Dissolve 1 lb, saleratus in 1 pint soft water; 
then mix 4 oz. fresh chloride of lime in 1 pint water, stirring it to 
remove all lumps. It may not all dissolve. Pour the 2 mixtures 
together, stir and shake thoroughly; set aside and when settled pour 
off the clear liquid and bottle for use. Use glass or earthen vessels 
in preparing it. Useful for bleaching or washing and removing 
various stains. The part which is left after pouring off the clear li- 
quid can be used in cleaning the sink, white floors, wood tables etc. 

Lime Water. — Take a 2=gallon jar of pure soft water, and put in 
about 8 lbs. of unslacked lime; shake it well, and allow it to settle; 
pour off and bottle the clear liquid. This can be done 2 or 3 times 
until it ceases to taste of the lime; then add more lime. Lime is 
twice as soluble in cold as in hot wa er, A little of this water added 
to cream or milk will keep it from "turnijig." Mixed with an equal 
quantity of milk, or much more, it is an excellent remedy for the 
bowel complaint in children, and irritability of the stomach, and, 
with a little of this added, milk will stay on the stomach when it 
would not otherwise. A little of it will prevent milk from " curd- 
ling " which would otherwise do so when heated, and it can thus be 
used for pies, etc. Bottles which have contained milk are sweetened 
by it. Li fact, it has many uses. Keep it in green glass bottles, 
and well corked, or it will soon lose its virture. 

Washiiuj Soda. — The carbonate of soda, or " washing=soda," is 
a strong alkali. This has so many uses that it should be bought by 
the quantity, when it can be obtained quite cheaply. Then keep it 
locked in the storeroom so that it will not be misused by the servants. 
To prepare it for use, jjut a pan on the stove and in it put 1 pint of 
the dry soda and 3 quarts of boiling water; leave it on the stove till 
fully dissolved, stirring it repeatedly; let it get cold, and then put it 
into preserve jars or wide-mouthed bottles, and label it plainly as 
''Washiufi Scnhi.'^ Some of this used in washing the sink, sink 
brushes, dish cloths, etc., will keep them delightfully clean and sweet. 
A hot solution of this poured down the sink pipe from time to time, 
will prevent the formation of greasy deposits, as explained under 
" Sinks and Drains."' For the value of soda in washing, see our arti- 
cle on " The Laundry." 

Polishing Materials.— ^Whiting, rottenstone, flour of emery, 
tripoli, and lime are the 5 articles most valuable for domestic uses 
and a small vial of each, plainly labeled, should be in every house. 
They are referred to and their uses more fully explained in our article 
on metal wares. 



848 INSECT PESTS 

Uses of Tea Leaves. — Keej) old tea leaves for a few days, then 
let them soak in a tin pail for ^ hour; strain through a sieve and 
use (ho lic^uor for all varnished paints; it cleans and makes it look 
equal to new. Do not use it on unvarnished jjaints. It will also 
clean windows, oil cloth, and looking glasses. The tea leaves, 
squeezed nearly dry, make an excellent thing to scatter on a carpet 
before sweeping it. 

Uses of Newspapers. — These may be put to many more uses than 
many people imagine. They are good to clean glassware, like lamp- 
chimneys, wind(jws, mirrors, etc., zinc, tinware, stoves and knives. 
The printing ink on newspapers acts as a defiance to moths; there- 
fore wrapping things in newspajjers is a first rate preservative. They 
are invaluable under the carj^et, laid over the regular carpet paper. 
They are also invaluable to keep out the air. Ice completely envel- 
o^Ded in newspapers, so that all air is shut out, will keep a very long 
time. A jug of ice water wrapped around in a newspaper with th(3 
ends of the ijaper twisted together to exclude the air will remain all 
night in any summer room with hardly any visible melting of the ice. 
In freezing ice cream, M'hen ice is scarce, pack the freezer f full of 
ice and salt, and finish with newspapers, and the difference in the 
time of freezing and quality of the cream is not perceptible from the 
result when the freezer is packed full of ice. Cover ice molds with 
newspajDers, and they w^ill retain the cold better than a packing of 
cracked ice and salt, M^hich must have crevices to admit the air. 

0/7. — To keep it from becoming rancid, add a few drops of ether. 
Rancid oil may be restored by boiling about 15 minutes with a little 
water and calcined magnesia; or filter through freshly burnt charcoal. 

To vnite oil and water, adding a little salts of tartar (?'. e., car- 
bonate of potash) is the best and cheapest medium to use. (An 
alkali will cut the oil into fine particles, and then they can be held in 
water as an emulsion.) 

Anii Corrosive Oil. — Put any quantity of oliveoil in a wide= 
necked bottle, and insert therein a few coils of very thin sheet lead; 
cork the bottle, and expose to the sun for 3 or 4 weeks; then pour off 
all that is quite clear. This oil will never corrode nor thicken, and 
can be used for clocks, sewing machines, and delicate machinery. 



INSECT PESTS. 

\ I /he many insects which infest a house are a great annoyance 
\\ [ to housekeepers. The following hints on the best ways to 
q] I l£ get rid of them will be helpful to our readers. 

Auls. — (1) Slices of cucumber scattered 
about will drive away any ants, as well as crickets, 
cockroaches, etc. (2) Wet a sponge with any sweet 
syrup; when the ants flock to the sponge i^lunge it in 
boiling water, thus killing them. Then sweeten and 
set again. ( '.\ ) For red ants, grease a plate with lard, 
as they prefer that to sugar; put a few sticks around white ant. 




INSECT PESTS 849 

the edge, and when they flock to the jAate turn it bottom up over the 
fire, and they will fall in with the melting lard. Then set the plate 
again. (4) Keeping a bag of sulphur in a drawer or cupboard will 
drive them away. (5) Cayenne i^epper blown into the cracks and 
scattered about repels them. (6) Apply with a brush to shelves and 
crevices where they congregate, very hot alum water, ijroportioned at 
1 lb. alum to 8 pints water. (7) For black ants, scatter a few leaves 
of wormwood about their haunts; or pour benzolene down their holes. 
(8) Quassia chips boiled in water, and a very little soft soap added, 
will destroy black ants. (9) Rubbing shelves with carbolic soap 
is often effectual, and this is a good disinfectant also. (10) Sweet 
fern or cloves scattered about repels them. (11) Put a little sweet- 
ened water in a dish and stir in a little tartar emetic — only a little is 
needed; set it where they congregate and it will finish them. Don't 
let children get at this. (12) Pennyroyal, either an infusion of the 
plant or the oil, is disagreeable to ants and all insects. (13) Wash- 
ing shelves, and while they are moist rubbing on salt thickly, drives 
away ants. 

To Exterminate Ants from a La ten or Garden. — (1) Pour 
carbolic acid water down their nests. (2) Boil 1 lb. of cape aloes in 
a gallon of water and add 6 oz. of powdered camphor. Excavate the 
ant hill and pour in a quart of this, covering as much si^ace as possi= 
ble, and then fill the nest again. Where the nests cannot be found, 
dilute this largely with water, and sprinkle it over leaves, etc., 
through the nose of a watering can. (3) Tobacco water is eflPectual 
if poured on for a few nights till they disappear. (4) Puffing Dal- 
mation insect jjowder into their holes every morning for a few days 
will usually clear out ants. (5) Another excellent exterminator is to 
take 4 oz. potash and i lb. flour of brimstone. Set them in an iron, 
or earthen pan over the fire until dissolved and united; afterwards 
beat to a powder. Infuse some of this in water and wherever 
sprinkled about the house or grounds the ants will die or leave. (6) 
Another plan is to punch a hole in the antdiill with a wooden stick 
or iron rod; pour a little bisulphide of carbon into this hole, and 
then fill it by pressing the earth around it; the fuines will penetrate 
the hill and exterminate the ants. As this is an explosive substance 
it must be used with care, but if kept away from the fire is compara- 
tively safe. It is a volatile liquid, and its fumes are very destructive 
to animal life. 

Anth)-enus Vctrins. — This is an insect which feeds on almost 
any dry animal substance; whalebone, combs, horn scoops, etc., are 
often attacked by them. They often appear in museums, drug stores, 
etc. Bisulphide of sulphur will kill them in all stages. The odor of 
camphor will keep non-infested materials from their attacks. 

Bedbugs. — Good fresh insect powder, freely used, will kill them. 
Either kerosene, benzine, gasoline or naptlia will be effectual if thor- 
oughly apiDlied to all cracks in bedsteads, etc. The foregoing 5 rem- 
edies are probably the best things, antl are effectual. A strong solu- 
tion of salt and water will kill them; then fill the cracks with salt. 
The alum solution given among the exterminators is effectual. So is 
54 



850 INSECT PESTS 

turpentine, and so is oil of sassafras thinned with a little alcohol — 
use the red instead of white sassafras oil. The above are much 
better to use than Paris green and other strong jjoisons. The eggs 
are laid early in March. Apply the remedy freely, once in March 
and repeat in July or August, and they can be exterminated. 

Bees.^{l) To destroy the black bees, place on the floor where 
they assemble 2 or 8 shallow tin vessels half filled with water, with 
strips of cardboard running horn the floor to the edge. They run up 
the cardboard and perish in a watery grave. (2) Cucumber peel 
scattered around is about the simijlest and best thing to use. 

Bites and Stiugs of Iiiscds.— For the stings of bees and wasps, 
first extract the sting and then apply a paste made of soda and water. 
It gives almost instant relief. For fleas, bugs, gnats and mosquitoes, 
apply a preparation of 1 oz. of glycerine to 50 drops of dilute carbol- 
ic acid; or use carbolizecl vaseline; or use a solution of borax and 
ammonia, or strong alum water and glycerine. The juice of an 
onion, or anything " strong," if aj^plied at once, will serve for any of 
these bites, always extracting the sting, hov^ever, of a beo or wasp. 
A paste of powdered ipecacuana in water is excellent for bites of 
scorpions, etc. 

Nettle Stings. — Examine the skin and remove all prickles, and 
treat the same as for stings of bees or wasps. 

Black Beetles. — (1) Throw a mixture of Per- 
sian insect powder and powdered wormseed around 
where they frequent. (2) Use powdered borax, 
about ^ lb. to each room. Scatter it about freely, 
and imrticidarly blow it in cracks and crevices 
where they can hide. It makes them emigrate. 
Those which it kills may be swept up afterwards 
without injury to carpets or furniture. Repeat once 
a week until they disappear. (3) Camphor dissolv- 
ed in spirits of wine and painted over their haunts 
is often an effectual remedy. (4) Cucumber peel ^„,„ 

, , . /i.1 • 1 i 1 1 J. BLACK BEETLE. 

scattered about is one or the simplest and best 
methods of getting rid of them. (5) Onions chopped up, mixed 
with borax, and spread on bread will fix them. The onion attracts 
them and the borax kills them. 

Bristle-Tail or Silver^FisJi.—Theae little silvery insects feed on 
silken clothing, tapestry, and often books. Good fresh insect i^ow- 
der will kill them. So will sulphur. 

Cabbage JVornis. — Dissolve | lb. saltpetre in 2 gallons of water, 
and apply with a sprinkler. If one ax^plication is not sufficient 
apply again. 

Caterpillars. — (1) Boil together equal quantities of wormwood, 
rue and any cheap tobacco. Make the liquid strong. Sprinkle it on 
young leaves and branches every morning and evening while the 
fruit is ripening. (2) Hang pieces of woolen rag on every tree and 
1 ush. The caterpillars will congregate on them, and are then easily 
destroyed, 




INSECT PESTS 



851 




The Carpet Beetle (also called Bujfalo Moth). — Gasoline, 
naptlia, kerosene and benzine are all efficacious — probably benzine is 
the best to use on tlie whole. When they once infest a house it is 
difficult to get rid of them wholly without energetic measures. Take 
up the carpets, steam them, or sjjray them well with 
benzine, and spray around the baseboards and in the 
cracks in the floors with benzine, or pour it from a can 
with a small nozzel — a stream the size of a knitting 
needle is enough, as only a little is needed. Then fill 
the cracks with a moderately thick mixture of plaster of 
paris and water before relaying the carpet. This will 
keep others out of the cracks. Pepper is disagreeable 
to the moths, and scattered on the floor before relaying 
the carpet will tend to keep them from laying a new batch of eggs 
there. Placing strips of tarred roofing paper around the borders of 
the room and using carpet lining furnishes probably the best protec- 
tion. Near the baseboards is the most vulnerable part. Apply the 
benzine there at once if they begin work. The steam generated by 
pressiug a very hot iron on wet cloths laid on a carpet also kills both 
moth and larvae. Benzine v/ill kill them on clothing, covered furni- 
ture, etc., and also apply it freely in chests or drawers in which 
infested clothing has been stored. 

The insect was introduced into America from Europe in 1872. The moth lays 
an egg which hatches into a larvae, and that does the mischief. Its worst work is 
done in June, July and August. The insect feeds on the pollen of various shrubs, 
and is particularly fond of spirea. "When this insect appears it is not best to have 
that plant near the home, as the-moth will fly from that to the house and lay. its 
eggs. 

Cockroaches. — (1) Sprinkle borax plentifully in their haunts, 
not 1 or 2 times, but renew every day for 1 or 2 weeks; it banishes 
them. ( 2 ) Lay the parings of green cucumbers at night where they 
congregate; repeat each night and in a short time they disaj)pear. 
(3) Sprinkle hellbore on the floor at night; it finishes them. (4) 
Camphor gum scattered where they frequent banishes them. (5) 
Sprinkle liberally where they rendezvous 37 j)arts borax, 9 parts 
starch, and 4 parts cocoa, thoroughly mixed. (6) Inject into the 
cracks, and apply with a brush to the woodwork about their hiding 
places, the strong, hot solution of alum given among the " Extermi- 
nators." It is good also for bedbugs and other insects. 

If a moveable wooden wash stand becomes infested, wash it with 
hot suds, dry it in the sunlight, and soak 
every joint with strong ammonia. To pre- 
vent their return spread mucilage lightly on 
squares of brown paper, dust on borax thick- 
ly, and scatter these around. For a station- 
ary stand pour some copperas or chloride of 
lime down the waste pipe 2 or 3 times a 
week, and scatter borax freely in the lower 
part of the stand. 

Croton bugs, which are only a species of 
cockroach, when thoroughly infesting a bath- 
room, are probably best exterminated by 




OOOKKOAOH, 



852 



INSECT PESTS 





DEATH WATOH. 



using a sulphur candle. These can be bought at a drug store or 
grocer's and bear on them full directions for their use. 

Crickets. — (1) Scatter cucumber parings 
about and they will disappear. Probably tlie 
simplest thing. (2) Trap them in a covered 
box with a perforated lid containing a little salt 
or oatmeal. (3) Half fill some jam pots with 
water and set at night as a trap for them. 

The ''Dedh Tro/cA."— This is a species of beetle 
which attacks furniture and sometimes food. The noise 
is made by rapping the wood with its head. Woodwork 
may be protected from their attacks by washing it with 
a solution of corrosive sublimate and alcohol, or car- 
bolic acid water. Books, etc., may be fumigated with 
the fumes of burning sulphur, or exposed to the odor 
of carbolic acid. Benzine will kill them. 

£'(rr«vV/s.— Place a length of hollow bean 
stalk or other hollow tube where the insects 
collect, and each morning empty them into boil- 
ing water by blowing though it sharj^ly. Their eakwig. 
favorite food is dahlias, roses, carnations, etc. For protection, place 
flowerpots on the top of stakes. Tie a piece of wool dipped in oil 
around the stake, and also around the flower stalk about a foot from 
the earth. This will prevent their climbing up. 

Fleas. — To drive from the bed, scatter dried comomile flowers 
about the bed, or sprinkle the bed or night dress with a little spirits 
of camphor, or a few drops of lavender. To keep from the person 
sponge yourself with a solution of | ounce camphor and | ounce 
tincture of myrrh in 1 quart water. Shake well before using. On 
animals, oil of j^ennyroyal will certainly drive them away, or where 
the herb abounds use a decoction. Wash or sprinkle them with it. 
Remove and burn old straw, litter, etc. On hogs sprinkle the above 
on their backs and ears while they are feeding. Carbolic acid is also 
good, and so is Persian insect powder, or cayenne pepper. 

Flies. — (1) Mix 1 part spirits of lavender 
with 5 parts water; scatter it around freely and 
persistently and it wnll drive away the flies. (2) 
A castor^oil plant or Japanese lily growing in a 
room wnll kill many and drive away the rest. (3) 
Laurel oil spread on picture frames, curtains, horse fly. 

etc., will afford protection. (4) Boill oz. of quassia chips in 1 pint 
of water for 10 minutes; strain and add 4 oz. molasses. This will 
attract and destroy them. (5) Insect powder if blown about will 
clear a room. (6) Wood ashes throM-n into drains and on heajjs of 
rubbish destroys the eggs. (7) On animals, a strong infusion of 
smartweed applied with a sponge or brusli M-ill keep them off for* 24 
hours. Or, apply soapsuds containing a little carbolic acid. (8) It 
is sa'id that a branch of elder brush hung in a room will keep out 
flies, as they detest its smell. (9) A mixture of sugar and borax will 




INSECT I^ESTS 853 

kill them. (10) A paste made of 1 pint of laurel leaves and ^ pint 
glycerine, and applied to window and door casings will rid a room of 
flies. Two apjDlications will keep a kitchen clear for two weeks, it is 
said. The smell is not deleterious to human beings; but the leaves 
taken into the stomach are poisonovis. (11) Stables can be freed 
from them by keeping the floor well swept and clean, and sprinkling 
on kerosene oil — using but little. 

A good sticlqj ,p!J poj^cr can be made by soaking paper in a 
strong solution of alum and drying it; then take boiled linseed oil 
and resin, melt it and add honey; then spread it on the prepared 
paper. (2) Equal parts, by measure, of castor oil and melted resin, 
thoroughly mixed, and spread on writing or other non=porous paper, 
will destroy them. 

Gnats. — Same as mosquitoes. Also the smell of turpentine is 
said to drive them away; saturate a rag and tie to the hat when fish- 
ing, or smear the hands and face with an ointment scented with it. 

Harvest Biir/s. — Smear the legs over with a decoction of colo- 
cynth; or apply 1 oz. insect powder macerated in 1 oz. weak spirit, 
and then diluted with 2^ oz. water. The insects will not attack the 
parts thus smeared. 

Insects on T)-ees, SJunibs, Etc. — These may be destroyed by 
tying brimstone (flour of sulphur) in a gauze bag, and sprinkling 
it over the plants. 

Lice. — (1) Wash the part affected with water containg 1 part 
carbolic acid to 20 of water. Or, (2) use 1 part of sulphurous ( v/o^ 
sulphuric) acid to 3 of water. The latter is excellent to destroy par- 
asites on furniture, dogs. etc. 

Mosqjiitoes. — (1) As a preventive, mix 50 parts of glycerine 
with 1 part of dilute carbolic acid, and rub it on the exposed skin. 
The smell of the carbolic acid may be disguised with a little lavender 
if desired. (2) Kerosene or any of the essential oils applied to the 
skin is a protection against these pests. (3) To keep from the bed, 
hang on the bedstead a few bruised leaves of pennyroyal, or a sponge 
dipped in camphorated spirits, or lay over the head of the bed a cloth 
moistened with a teaspoonful of carbolic acid. (4) To drive from a 
room, burn camphor in a tin dish over a lamp so that it evaporates 
without igniting; or burn a little insect powder {pyrethvum) on a 
hot shovel, or sprinkle a little of it on a piece of burning> camphor; 
or scatter oil of pennyroyal about the room. A bottle of pennyroyal 
left uncorked in a room over night will clear them out. (5) The 
castor=bean plant raised in tubs about the house or planted in the 
garden will rid the house of them. 

Moths. — Benzine or gasoline will kill both moth and eggs, and 
can be applied without injury to carpets, clothing, etc. Good fresh 
insect powder freely applied, will protect clothing, feathers, furs, 
etc., as they cannot live where it is, but it does not kill the eggs 
Moths in carpets may be killed by laying on a wet cloth and apjoly- 
ing a very hot iron; the steam thus generated kills both moth and 
eggs; or sprinkle on benzine or gasoline, which kills them both. 




854 INSECT PESTS 

Get English lavender from a florist, or buy the 
dried English lavender at a drugstore. Scattered on 
closet shelves, in drawers and in trunks it will pro- 
tect woolens from the attacks of moths. It is one of 
the best of all the odoriferous articles now known 
as a preventive. moth. 

A room infested with moths is sometimes fumi- 
gated as follows: Open drawers, spread out clothes, etc., so that the 
fumes can penetrate everywhere, and put a large piece of camphor 
into an iron vessel containing a few ashes; set this in a pan of water, 
wet the camphor with alcohol, light it, and leave the room, closing 
all doors and windows tightly. In 1 hour the room can be opened 
again and aired for 1 or 2 hours. Rooms are also fumigated for 
moths, sometimes, by burning Dalmatian insect powder in them. 

The olcl=fashioned plan for protection was to rely on strongly aromatic sub- 
stances, the value of which consisted in the fact that their odor was disagreeable 
to the moths. Camphor, cedarwood, tobacco, Russia leather, cloves and other 
articles have been used, and it is now claimed that lavender is the best of all. 
None of these things kill the eggs, however, while benzine and gasoline do effect- 
ually. If insect powder is used be sure it is fresh and good. If odoriferous sub- 
stances are relied on, use enough to make the odor reasonably strong, as that is 
their only merit, and renew them when they become weak. 

The Life History of Moths. — During the cold weather of the winter season 
the worms lie torpid; they are transformed into chrysalids early in the spring, and 
in about 3 weeks they hatch out into the winged state. They fly about for a time 
and then lay their eggs, when they at once die. They always seek out dark places 
to depo.^it their eggs, which are very small — too small for the unaided eye to 
detect. After about 2 weeks these minute eggs hatch out into small worms which 
do the mischief, and which begin their work at once. As all moths work in the 
dark, articles which are in the light are not so much exposed to their depredations. 

Slugs and Snails. — (1) Put salt on their trails {vat tails). (2) 
Take cabbage leaves, soften them in an oven, cover with fresh drip- 
ping, and lay where they frequent. The leaves will soon be covered 
with slugs and snails and they can be destroyed. (3) No slugs will 
approach the smell of garlic, and a few pieces placed near j)la.nts, 
etc., will keep them away. (4) A piece of haircloth tied around the 
base of a fruit tree will keep them off. (5) If a few slices of turnip 
are laid about in the evening the slugs will gather on them and may 
then be destroyed. (6) Garden walls with salt sprinkled on top and 
at the bottom will not be troubled with snails crawling over them. 

Was'ps. — Put 1 or 2 tablespoons of pulverized commercial potas- 
sium cyanide into the entrance of the nest without disturbing it or 
the insects. They enter, never to come out again. 

Weevils. — Weevils in beans, rice, wheat, and peas may be 
destroyed by subjecting the grain to a temperature of 130° to 145° 
for an hour. This does not hurt them for eating, but injures some 
of them for seed. Beans, etc., designed for eating can be treated to 
the hot bath. If a little bisulphide of carbon is put into the center 
of a bin, by means of a tube, the fumes will soon destroy all weevils 
or grain insects which may be within the bin. See what we say 
about the use of this substance under "Ants," 




INSECT PESTS 855 

A WORD ABOUT EXTERMINATORS.— Benzine and gasoline 
are among the cheapest and best insect exterminators known. They 
may be applied freely to clothing, carpets, upholstered furniture, 
mattresses, etc.; the odor soon evaporates, but (dl vermin, and their 
eggs also, are effectually destroyed. Their inflammability makes 
care necessary when ignition is possible. 

Insect powder kills moths, bedbugs, fleas, and small insects; the 
larger insects it does not kill. 

Hot alum water (1 lb. alum to 3 pints water) is death to all 
vermin where it can be applied, and is an excellent thing for com- 
mon use. All insects dread jDennyroyal; when 
the fresh herb cannot be gathered get the oil of 
pennyroyal; pour some in a saucer and steep 
cotton wadding in it, and place in bureau draw- 
ers, boxes, closet shelves, etc. Ants, cockroach- 
es, etc., will soon disappear. Also excellent for 
brushing off the seed tick. Applied to dogs, geassuopper. . 

sheep, horses, cattle and swine, it will keep off* 

fleas, flies and mosquitoes. Slices of cucumber scattered about will 
drive away ants, cockroaches, grasshoppers, etc. 

The smell of lavender is disagreeable to flies and moths, and it is 
one of the best things to use as a preventive. Use the dried sprigs, 
scattered around freely, for moths, and the spirits of lavender in 
water for flies, as explained for " Flies." Oil of pepipermint, in 
vapor, is destructive to cockroaches, etc. Oil of cedar repels moths 
and is destructive to vermin. 

The best disposition to make of dead insects is to sweep them 
up and throw them into the fire. 

To Clear Fruit Trees from Insects. — Into 3 or 4 gallons of 
water put | lb. tobacco, ^ lb. sulphur, ^ peck of unslacked lime; 
syringe the trees well with this mixture and it will effectually destroy 
blight. 

RATS AND MICE.— i?o/s.— Mix together 8 oz. strong cheese 
and 2 oz. squills, and place in the haunts of rats; they eat the cheese, 
the squills act at once, and the rats die immediately. Much better 
than the usual rat poison. Or, sprinkle cayenne pepper in their 
holes, or place a mixture of powdered glass and tar in their holes and 
runaways. It banishes them. If they infest an empty house, scatter 
chloride of lime on the top floor — they will retreat to the one below; 
then scatter it there, and they will retreat to the next lower story. 
Drive them thus to the cellar; scatter there and they will leave. Do 
not scatter in the lower stories first, however, as that only drives 
them up. After driving them out keep a little of the lime in the. 
cellar and they will not come back — it gives a permanent riddance. 
In using any poison, place a shallow basin of water near it; rats or 
mice will at once run to and drink it, dying there instead of in their 
holes. 

Mice. — Mix tartar emetic with pumpkin seeds, cheese, or some 
favorite food, and place for them. They will leave. Camphor gum 



856 INSECT PESTS 

mixed with seeds, or jilaced in drawers, trunks, etc., will iDreserve 
them from mice. They dislike the odor of camphor and keep away 
from it. Peppermint, or any other kind of mint, scattered about the 
shelves will keep them away, it is said. Pumpkin seeds make the 
best bait for mice traps. Cayenne pepper will drive them away 
where it is scattered. Chloride of lime is as effectual with mice as 
with rats. Saturate a rag with a solution of cayenne pepi^er and 
stuff it in a rat or mouse hole — they will not touch it. 



THE LAUNDRY. 



\ I /here is probably no part of the re<2;-ular home work which 
\\ I it is more difficult to have done right than that belonging 
(S) I tg) to the laundry. Many or most of the women who claim to 
be good laundresses disi^lay an appalling ignorance of the 
subject, and the woman who trusts her work to them will 
often be dismayed at the result. Those who do their own wash- 
ing will welcome every hint which will help them, and those who 
do not, should take pleasure in knowing how it ought to be done, for 
sooner or later it is sure to be of use to the possessor. The house- 
wife should know why one article has acquired a yellow tinge, and 
what will eradicate it; why another has suddenly and unaccountably 
fallen into holes; and what is left undone to her table linen that it 
comes home without the bright, glossy look, which it ought to have. 
By the improved methods of washing now known ^ the labor can be 
saved, and these we aim to explain, together with the best methods 
of handling various kinds of goods. 

The laundry should contain 3 or 4 tubs (the paper or saw^dust 
being the best, as they will not fall to pices if kept dry ) ; 2 or 3 i^ails 
for drawing water; a long, smooth stick for stirring the clothes 
while boiling; 1 medium sized tin pail; 1 large clijpper; 1 large and 
1 small basket ; 2 cotton bags, 3 feet long and 2 feet wide, in which 
the most deliciite articles can be placed before being boiled; 1 
or 2 high wooden clothesdiorses, and a line on which to dry 
clothes in bad weather; an ironing table; a closet for holding irons, 
ironing blankets, etc. In the closet should be kept 5 or 6 doz. 
clothes=i3ins (the wooden being much the best); starch and gum 
arable; bags for straining the starch; bluing; ^ doz. irons; 1 polish- 
ing iron; ironing blankets and sheets; a lump of beeswax wTajjped in 
cloth; a board 1^ feet long and 8 inches wide on which to iron 
shirt bosoms; a paper or cushion of pins; 1 bottle of kerosene or 
washing fluid, and 3 or 4 good irondiolders. The ventilation of the 
room should be especially attended to, so that the steam can be car- 
ried off without the necessity of a draft from an o^^en door or win- 
dow. Ventilators high up in the wall which can be oj)ened and 
closed at will are best. Water must be convenient; either drawn 
from i^ipes, or from a pump or well. Rain water is the very best for 
washing, and should be caiight and preserved if possil^le. Where soft 
water is used, only |- as much soap is needed for washing. We else- 
where explain how to soften hard water. 

WASHING CLOTHES.— By long custom Monday has become 
established as wash day. There are many advocates of Tuesday wash- 
ing, however, and the latter has many advantages, as Monday can lie 
devoted to sorting over the clothes, mending them, etc. Before 

857 



858 THE LAUNDKY 

being washed tlie clothes should l)e looked over, any needed mend- 
ing done, and any stains from fruit, grass, etc., removed, as stains 
are much more easily removed ])efore they are touched by soap (we 
explain elsewhere how to remove stains of all kinds). The clothes 
should then be arranged in lots, the laces and linens being put by 
themselves, the bed and body linen in another pile, table linen, 
towels and doilies, in another, colored dresses, socks and stockings 
together, and flannels by themselves. And now as to the washing. 
One of the best methods for reducing its labor is by the use of kero- 
sene, as follows. 

Kerosene for WasJiing. — Fill the boiler | full of soft water and 
shave in 1 lb. of good soap. When the water boils and the soap is 
dissolved, add 2^ tablespoons of kerosene oil. Now pick out the 
cleanest jjieces, put them loosely into the boiler and let boil hard 
for 10 or 15 minutes, turning them occasionally; then take them out 
and i^ut in the next cleanest, boil the same way, and so on until all 
are thus boiled. On taking out each lot look them over, and if there 
are any dirty spots on them rub them on the washl^oard, but usual- 
ly no rubbing is required; then rinse them in clear, Jiot rinsing water, 
then in the bluing water, and then wring out for drying. 

Do not put too many pieces in at a time. Should the water boil 
low, add more, and |- lb. of shaved soap and a tablespoon of oil. The 
kerosene takes out the dirt as if by magic, does not in the least in- 
jure even fine clothes, and leaves no trace of its odor when they are 
dry. Some people measure the water on putting it in the l)oiler and 
add 1 tables^joon of kerosene to each pail of water used, and that is 
a good XJroportion, producing excellent results. 

Washing Fluid. — The next best labor saving device is by the 
use of washing fluid, made as follows: In \ gallon of water dissolve 
1 lb. of washing soda; add 1 gallon of clear lime water (have it from 
freshly slacked lime), stir together, let it settle, and then pour off the 
clear water; to this add 3 oz. borax dissolved in 2 pints boiling 
water; let it get cold and add 3 oz. pulverized carbonate of ammonia; 
when fully dissolved pour off into bottles, and cork tightly. To use, 
add 1 cupful to each 6 gallons of water; let the clothes soak in it 
over night, in the morning rub them a little if they need it (many 
of the cleanest ones will need no rubbing), run them through the 
wringer, then put them in the boiler and scald, then put them 
through the wringer again, jpass through the rinsing water and hang 
out to dry. This saves half the work of washing, and is much less 
injurious to the clothes than most washing fluids (it is not nearly 
as hard on clothes as the old method of rublnng on the wash board 
which wears them out) and is greatly liked by those who use it. 

Washing Fluid No 2. — Take 8 oz. of unslacked lime, borax the 
size of an egg, 1 lb. sal soda, and 1 gallon of water; bring it to a 
boil, remove from the fire, let settle, pour off the clear liquid and 
bottle for use. For use, into a boiler of cold water put soap and 1 
teacup of this fluid. Put the clothes in dry, and when they come 
to a boil they are ready to take out; wet the next boiler of clothes, 
and put into the same suds; let them come to the boiling point, l^ut 



THE LAUNDRY 859 

do not boil; then rinse through hot water, and then in the Ijluing 
water. Some of these improved methods should be tried by house- 
keepers, and washing day will be robbed of half its terrors. 

Soaking Clothes. — Thoughtful women often ponder the question "To soak or 
not to soak?" The first action of soaking is to soften the dirt so that it is re- 
moved with less wear and tear to the clothes, but when soaked all night the objec- 
tion is that it does too much. While the first action of the soap or alkali is to 
cumbine with the dirt and render it soluble, if allowed to stand 12 hours or so it 
forms new compounds, less apparent to the eye, but harder to remove. This is oft- 
en the reason that clothes have a dead, heavy smell after being done up. This is 
particularly apt to be the case if washing powders or washing fluids are used to 
soak them in. 

Washing Fluids and Powdeks. — The washing fluids on the market usually 
contain ammonia or chloride of lime, and a proportion of borax, and the pow- 
ders are usually made of soap too hard to dissolve readily, which is dried, crushed, 
and mixed with powdered potash or borax. If proper care is taken they can, 
however, be used. A tablespoon of either, stirred into a tubful of hard water be- 
fore putting in the clothes, will soften it. But never on any account put any such 
powder into the water while the clothes are in it. as the strong alkalies they usually 
contain instead of at once dissolving in the water may settle on the clothes and 
eat holes in them. 

Washing With Turpentine. — Turpentine has been sometimes recommended 
as an addition to washing fluid. When applied in hot water to the bare arms of 
the laundress it is liable to be absorbed through the pores of the skin and cause 
illness, and hence it is best not to use it. Although it possesses some value as a 
detergent, the above fact should be borne in mind when its use is recommended. 

The Height of Tubs. — It will save many a backache if the tubs are fixed at 
the right height. If you are tall, raise the tub; if short, have a little box or stool 
to stand on. Many women are careless about these little points and suffer in con- 
sequence. 

SOAPS A cheai) hard soap can be made by shaving 4 large 

bars of yellow soaj) into thin slices; j)ut it into 2 gallons of rain or 
soft water, and when nearly dissolved add 3 oz. borax and 2 lbs. sal 
soda; stir till all is melted, and pour into a shallow pan or large tub; 
when nearly cool stir in slowly 1 oz. liquid ammonia, mixing it well. 
Let stand 1 or 2 days, cut into cakes or bars, and dry in a warm 
place. It can be made for 3 cents a lb., and in less than \ hour, and 
is good for all household i^urposes. This recipe has often sold ft)r $5. 

Soap No. 2. — In 3 pints cold water dissolve a 1 lb. box of pul- 
verized lye; melt 5-^- lbs. of clean grease, and strain it through cheese 
cloth; when the lye water is cool, and the grease cool enough to bear 
the hand, jjour together and stir thoroughly until thickened. Pour 
into a box or drijoping pan lined w^ith greased xjaper, and let stand in 
a warm place for 24 hours; then cut into bars. Good. 

Soft Soap.—'^heve lye is not readily made from wood ashes, 
commercial potash is used. Dissolve 8 lbs. potash, broken small, in 
an iron kettle containing about 12 quarts of boiling water; melt the 
same weight of clarified fat in another iron kettle; into a clean barrel 
put 3 or 4 gallons of hot soft water, and then put in alternately a 
ladleful each of fat and lye. stirring it well each time to mix it thor- 
oughly; when it is all in, fill the barrel with hot water, stirring it in 
a ladleful at a time, and then stir till it is all creamy. Now let it 
stand in a cool place for 12 or 13 weeks, and it can then be used, 
making good soft soap. 



860 THE LAUNDRY 

Substitiife for Soft Soap. — Put thin shavings of hard soap in 
water, simmer slowly until thoroughly dissolved, and remove from 
the stove while very thin; if just right it will be of the consistency of 
thick soft soap, is excellent for laundry j)urposes, and can be used by 
those whose hands are roughened by soft soap. 

Soap Borlx. — This is not appreciated by most women. It can 
be bought at any drug store, and is one of the best cleaning materials 
known and is suitable for almost any dark colored cloth; but it is lia- 
ble to stain delicate colors, as it contains a little color itself. To 
prei^are it for use; pour 1 quart of boiling water over about 5 cents 
worth of the bark, let it l)()il gently 2 hours, strain it through cheese 
cloth, and it can be used at once, or bottled for future use. Sponge 
out grease spots, etc., with it, and then sponge or rinse with clean 
water. Its cleansing power comes from the vegetable principle 
saponlnc which it contains. 

About Soaps. — The fats of which soaps are made are composed of fatty acids, 
combined witli glycerides. When boiled with an alkali the fatty acids unite with 
the alkali and form a compound called soap, and the (ilycerine is set free. In soap 
factories this glycerine is saved and sold, and the glycerine of commerce comes 
largely from soap factories, which obtain it in this way. The soap owes its cleans- 
ing power to its ready solubility in water, and the fact that its alkali will then 
readily unite with the greasy matters which usually constitute "dirtiness," and 
they will then be soluble in water, so that the cleansing power of soap depends on 
the amount of alkali which it contains. Pure alkali would be injurious to both the 
skin and the fabric, but it is milder in its action when combined with the fatty 
acids (forming soap) although retaining its cleansing properties. Soft soaps are 
made with potash and hard soaps with soda. The cleansing power of soft soap 
results from its excess of alkali. Curd soap is the purest soap of commerce. It is 
made of tallow, with a little olive oil to impart softness. It enters into the com- 
position of many fancy soaps. Windsor soap (when genuine) is made with olive 
oil and tallow. Castile soap is made of soda, olive oil and water. When marbled, a 
little sulphate of iron and sulphuretted lye are added. Carbolic soap contains 
some carbolic acid, and possesses some disinfecting power. Cheap soaps are often 
"loaded" with teri'a alba (white earth), resin etc. The latter, although it makes 
soap "lather" profusely, does not increase its cleansing properties, and is used as 
an ad alterant. 

Soap is best purchased in quantities and allowed to dry, as it then wears much 
longer. If dried too fast it will crack and break. The best way to cut cakes of 
soap in two is with strong thread or small twine, drawing it across and pressing it 
on the cake. It cuts it better than a knife, but a knife must be used to shave soap. 

Hyposulphite of Soda. — This is a colorless, transparent salt, and is sometimes 
recommended for use instead of washing soda. It possesses peculiar bleaching 
properties, and for fabrics bleached with chlorine it is used as a dechlorizing 
agent. If used in washing linen and cotton their appearance is much improved. 

RINSING — The great object in .rinsing clothes is to extract the 
soap, and they should l)e thoroughly rinsed until all the suds is 
removed. The water they are first rinsed in should be hot, as that 
extracts the soap much better than cold water evei' will. If the soaj) 
is not all extracted it will combine with the bluing and give a yellow 
tinge to the clothes. On being taken from the rinsing water the 
articles are wrung out, and those to be starched are put in one bas- 
ket (it is a good idea to first spread a large, clean cloth in it); the 
others are put in another basket and hung out to dry at once 

Bhiiijf/. — The amount of bluing used shoiild be merely enough 
to overcome the yellow tinge. Put enough in the water to give it a 



THE LAUNDRY 861 

pale blue color when a little is held up in the hollow of the hand, 
thouojh some laundresses use more than others. Never let clothes lie 
in the bluing water; take 1 article at a time, dip it in once or twice, 
and wring it out, and so continue until all are done. Add a little 
blue from time to time to keep up the shade. 

White goods, by the constant application of soap, and from other causes in 
the course of wear, manifest a tendency to turn yellow. The use of bluing is 
merely to overcome this and increase the apparent whiteness. For a good bluing; 
(1) Buy 5 cents worth of indigo blue at the drug store, powder and put it in a 
quart bottle, and fill it with clear rain water. (2) A ball blue can be formed by 
mixing finely=powdered indigo with an equal amount of starch, or less if a very 
deep color is desired; then make it into a paste with warm water, and form it into 
small lumps or cakes. (3) In 10 oz. water dissolve 1 oz. indigo=carmine and % o^. 
gum arabic. 

Clothes wkingebs shoulfl be oiled carefully every week. Keep a little oiI=can 
filled with machine oil for this purpose. Clothes will run through easily when the 
wringer is well oiled; but otherwise it will go hard and waste the strength. If 
color gathers on the rubber rollers it can be taken off by washing them with a 
small cloth wet with kerosene oil, and then with soapsuds. 

DRYING CLOTHES.— Before hanging clothes out to dry fold 
them to remove the creases of the wringer, and they will dry much 
better. Pocket handkerchiefs should be folded double and hung up, 
3 or 4 above each other, taken down when half dry, rolled up tightly, 
clapped, and they are ready to iron. Table linen is treated the same 
way, taken down when very damp, carefully folded ready to mangle, 
first to give it a line gloss, and afterwards ironed. Body linen is 
dried much more; if too dry it must be sprinkled with clean water 
very slightly, and rolled up for inming or starching. Never allow 
articles to be pegged singly to the lines on a windy day; let them be 
doubled, or even quadrupled, and much trouble from dilapidated cor- 
ners will be saved. Never, except in fine hot weather, dry starched 
articles out of doors, or they will lose half their stiffness. If the 
clothes are dried in the house try to manage so that they dry 
mainly during the night, when the laundress is out of the room, as 
the moist, heated room is quite injurious. 

Grass bleaching is the best way to whiten clothes that have become yellow from 
any cause. Spread them out on the grass, and if the sun is very hot, sprinkle them 
2 or 3 times with water from the nose of a watering pot. It is best to take up the 
clothes every night and put them in a tub of cold water. The sun and air have a 
magical effect in whitening linen. After bleaching, they can be rinsed, blued, and 
done up. 

Chtlics Lines and Clothes Pins. — A galvanized wire clothes line 
is the best to use, as it need not be taken down, and there is no dan- 
ger that it will break. Always pass a clean damp cloth along a 
clothes line to free it from dust, before hanging the clothes on it. 

Wooden clothes pins are the best to use. A clothes pin apron, 
made by facing a large square piece of cloth on the outside for a 
pocket, is much more convenient than a basket, as it allows free use 
of the hands. Clothes=pins will be more durable if boiled a few min- 
utes and dried quickly once a month or so. 

FOLDING CLOTHES.— Clothes are best folded the night before 
ironing day, as there is then time to attend to all the little details, 



862 THE LAUNDRY 

Skilful sprinkling makes ironing much easier. The water should be 
sprinkled on very evenly, not in great spots here and there. The 
quickest way is to take the articles as they come, without sorting 
them at all; sprinkle the first thing that comes to hand, then the 
next, and lay it on top, and so on until a pile is made; then push it 
away and make another, and so on. A small wisp broom, kept for 
that iJurpose, makes one of the best things with which to sprinkle 
clothes, as it scatters the water on evenly. When all are sprinkled, 
turn the first pile over, and carefully smooth and fold the garments, 
putting the diflPerent kinds together as far as possible. Roll up thin 
fabrics in muslin or a coarse towel to keep the outside from drying. 
Fold handkerchiefs and napkins but once, pull straight, lay them on 
toi3 of one another, and roll up tightly in yuislin. Roll towels the 
same way, but snap out the fringe beftjre rolling, having it quite 
damp, as otherwise it is soon broken and worn otf. Put the starched 
clothes by themselves, and do not turn them until just before iron- 
ing. The moisture is retained in the finer clothes by putting the 
sheets, etc., at the top of the basket. A thick cloth spread over the 
basket will keep it from drying. 

STARCHING CLOTHES.— For boiled starch use 1 heaping 
tablesi)oon of good starch to each pint of water. To make: Wet 2 
tablespoons of starch with 8 tablespoons of cold water, mixing it to a 
smooth paste; then add slowly, stirring all the time, 2 pints boiling 
water; then boil it (not simmer) 15 to 20 minutes, stirring it fre- 
quently (do not let it burn), and then strain it while hot through 
cheese cloth (it will have to be squeezed through). It should be 
used hot, and when you thin it use hot water. 

To starch shirts or collars, wet the bosom, cuffs and collars; 
wring very dry, and starch while damp; rub in the starch well so as 
to have it go clear through; wring them in a dry towel, wipe ofip all 
starch left on the outside, spread out evenly, rub down with a damp 
cloth, roll tightly together, let them lie 2 or I] hours, and iron. If a 
blister appears when ironing, dampen the finger and moisten it clear 
through; it will then iron out if the starch goes clear through, but 
not otherwise. 

Use thin starch for dresses, aprons, and children's clothing, and 
have it rather thin for skirts; for table linen have only the thinnest 
kind imaginal)le. To make clothes very stiff starch them and dry, 
then starch them ftuain and dry. This will make them very stiff 
and they will iron easily; it is better than to have the starch very 
stiff. 

To prevent a crust from forming over starch put a close cover 
over it as soon as made. 

There are hardly any 2 laundresses who proceed exactly alike in starching and 
ironing, and in hardly any department of housework is practice more essential to 
make perfect. Borax, salt, gum arable, kerosene, butter, lard, white wax, soap, 
spermaceti and turpentine are all used by laundresses to mix with starch to give a 
gloss to the linen and prevent the iron from sticking. We prefer kerosene, (l tea- 
sp ion to a quart of starch), and for shirts and collars a little sperm or white wax 



THE LAUNDRY 863 

also. Some use 1 teaspoon of strained gum arable water to a pint of starch, and 
there are numberless combinations, like salt and lard, sperm and borax, etc., advo- 
cated and vouched for by different laundresses. Any of these preparations liked 
best can be added to the clear starch given above, to give a gloss. 

" Cold Starching.''— This is not as much used as " hot starching.' 
To prepare cold starch allow 4 oz. starch to 1 quart of water; pour on 
a little water first, and let it stand, as it takes some time to dissolve; 
then add the rest, stirring all the time; strain through a muslin bag, 
and use. This would be thick, and would need diluting for many 
articles. A little borax and soap are sometimes added. Articles 
dipped in cold starch need no damping. They can be rolled up 
smoothly and ironed in about 10 minutes; if they get dry from being 
left too long they must be dipped in again. 

Flour Sf arch. —Mix 3 level tablespoons of flour to a smooth 
paste with a little cold water; then add, stirring constantly, 1 quart 
of boiling water, and boil hard ^ hour, stirring frequently; then 
strain through thin cloth and use. Many people use this for com- 
mon calicoes. 

Coffee Starch. — Make starch the usual way and add enough 
perfectly clear coffee to color it (about 2 cups); then strain it and 
add a piece of spermaceti the size of a pea. Use this starch for dark 
colored calicoes, muslins or joercales. 

IRONING. — In ironing it is a good idea to begin with some of 
the plain pieces, like sheets and pillow cases, which will get the irons 
in good condition for the starched articles; then iron the starched 
clothes, and then finish the plain pieces. Iron starched clothes until 
they are perfectly dry; they should be made very damp, but damp 
the other clothes but little. Iron dresses on the wrong side first, and 
finish on the right. Fine muslins are best ironed twice in opposite 
directions. Always iron laces and embroideries by the thread of the 
material. 

To iron a shirt use heavy, well heated irons. Lay the back of 
the sleeve smoothly on the table, and iron each side; then iron the 
wrist band, first the wrong side and then the right side. Next iron 
the shoulder strap, then the neck band or collar. Now double the 
back of the shirt and iron it on both sides; sijread the shirt out and 
iron all the front exce^jt the* bosom. Now comes the bosom. If the 
ironing board is covered with woolen it will not stick to it. Lay on 
a thin cloth the first time the iron is passed over it; remove it, rub it 
with a dami3 cloth, and iron until the finish is satisfactory. A 
smooth, rouncbedged iron should be used to gloss it. Then hang up 
to dry well, fold neatly, and put away. 

To iron a collar or cufp place it evenly on the table with the 
wrong side up, iron it lightly, turn it over and iron" the other side, 
lightly first, more heavily next, and then very heavily and smoothly, 
polishing it well at last. Then curl up and put aside to get firm and 
dry. 

Ftat4rons which are rough or rusty can be cleaned by i^utting a 
little salt on a piece of brown paper and rubbing the hot iron in it; 



8B4 THE LAUNDRY 

then rub the bottom of the iron with a little piece of beeswax tied in 
a i^iece of muslin and it will make it smooth. It is a good idea to 
rub each iron, before putting it back on the stove, on brickdust, 
sandpaper or salt, so that no starch may remain to be burnt on. 
Flat iron holders should not be any thicker than necessary to protect 
the hand, as it is tiresome reaching around one too thick. It is a 
good idea to keep 3 or 4 on hand; a piece of leather from an old boot 
top inserted in the holder x^rotects the hand well from the heat. 
Take irons from the stove and put them away as soon as the ironing 
is done; they are injured by being left on the stove. Always wipe 
irons thoroughly on taking them from the stove. 

Eiunnels for Shirt Bosoms. — There are many "enamels" in use 
and each laundress can make for herself the one she likes best. We 
give a few. (1) Take 2 parts si)ermaceti and 1 part white wax; heat 
moderately until they are melted together. To use, add a ^lecQ of 
this mixture (enamel), the size of a walnut, to each quart of starch. 

(2) Put in a cup and melt slowly \ oz. white wax, ^ oz. spermaceti, 

2 oz. hard stearine, and 2| oz. jjaraffine; then let it cool. Rub it 
over the article just before ironing. (3) Mix 8 oz. paraffine, ^ oz. 
kerosene, | oz. glycerine. Any of the foregoing enamels will pro- 
duce good results. 

SCORCHES, TO REMOVE.— (1) For linen, take the juice of 2 
onions, 2 oz. fuller's earth, \ oz. of white soajD, -J pint of vinegar; 
boil all together, and, when cold, sj^read on the spot; let dry, and 
then wash. (2) For white goods, dij) linen clothes in chlorine 
water, and rub well on. For cotton goods re=dye if possible, or on 
woolen raise a fresh surface. On silks, all efPorts are nearly useless. 

(3) For linen, mix the juice of 2 onions and | oz. of white soap, and 
spread it on. See also " Spots and Stains." 

Yclloiccd clothes can be whitened by soaking them in buttermilk; 
then wash them with soap in lukewarm water, rinse in cold water, 
and dry them. Repeat if necessary. Soak coarse articles longer 
than fine ones, and for very fine articles do not have the buttermilk 
too sour. 

A USEFUL HINT. — Always moisten with the tongue, on the 
wrong side, the button holes of starched collars, cutfs and shirts, just 
before attempting to l)utton them, or put in cufp buttons. That will 
soften the starch slightly so that they will button cnsih/, and the 
button holes will never tear out. Try it oiiC(\ and you will alwr.ys do 
it afterwards. 

WASHING FLANNELS The great difficulty in washing flan- 
nels, blankets, and all woolen goods is caused by the nature of the 
material. The fibers of the wool contain numberless little hooks, 
which, with rubbing and change of temperature become knotted to- 
gether, causing a shrinkage and thickening of the fabric. There are 

3 things to avoid in washing flannels. (1) Do not change the tem- 
perature of the water used from beginning to end, as it hardens the 
goods to take them from hot to cold water. (2) Never rub flannels 



THE LAUNDRY 865 

as linen articles are rubbed as that causes the fabric to knot to- 
gether. Soi3 the articles up and down in the water and pull through 
the hands, and after each water squeeze as dry as possible with the 
hands, as the wringer may tend to make them harsh. (3) Never rub 
soap on flannels. Make a suds of lukewarm water (do not have the 
water so hot but what the hand can be held in it comfortably), and 
add 1 tablespoon of borax for each pail of water, as there is nothing 
better for flannels (at least for white ones) than borax. After wash- 
ing, rinsing, and wringing as above directed, shake and i^ull the flannel 
into its original shape antl hang it out to dry, in a current of air if 
possible. AH flannel goods should dry as qiiickl/j as possible; if the 
weather is cloudy or gloomy it is better to dry them indoors. Take 
them in before they are quite dry, pull, fold them as evenly as possi- 
ble, roll up tightly in a clean towel or cloth, and leave a short time. 
If left too long they will shrink, so that it is better to iron them the 
same day if possible Iron them until they are quite dry, with irons 
which are not very hot. Flannels and blankets treated thus v/ill 
remain soft and white until they are worn out. It is not best to use 
bluing in the rinsing water for flannels. 

Never wash colored flannels with white ones. If the water is 
not too dirty they can be washed in the same suds after the white 
ones; otherwise prepare a separate suds for them. Never boil flan- 
nels. If the dye is inferior and the color runs, dissolve a handful of 
salt in the first water used. * 

Shriiil-i)i(/ Flauiicl. — Flannels can be shrunk before being made 
up, by soaking them first in cold and then in hot water. 

WASHING INFANT'S CLOTHING.— This should never be made 
too stiff, as infants are often caused much suffering by carelessness 
in this regard. The skirts of robes and long petticoats may be more 
stiff* than the bodices, as it helps them to hold their freshness longer, 
but the bodices themselves should, at the most, be wrung only out of 
water starch, and the bibs which come directly under the chin must 
have none at all. Trimmings of little skirts which should be of the 
softest lace must never be starched; they look jDretty starched, of 
course, but beauty should be sacrificed to the little wearer's comfort. 
Flannels unless carefully handled soon become shrunken and discol- 
ored. When laid aside, if wet, they should be plunged at once ' into 
a tub of cold soft water, without soap or soda, and left to soak a few 
minutes, then wrung out and dried gradually; or they can be sent to 
the laundry where, after this preliminary soaking they can be treated 
as ordinary flannel. 

WASHING STOCKINGS.— (1) Wash black stocjiings in strong, 
salt water; then dry them and wash again in another brine, finishing 
in clear water. If properly done the dye will not rub off. (2) Be- 
fore being worn soak black stockings, both cotton and woolen, in 
cold water over night; the next day wash in 2 tepid waters, making a 
lather with soap before putting in the stockings, and adding 1 table- 
spoon of ox^gall to the first water, then rinse, in lukewarm water 

55 



866 THE LAUNDRY 

first, until the dye ceases to come out; then stretch them and dry in 
the shade as fast as j)ossible. After once washing in ox-gall, borax 
will answer for future washings; use little soap. Do not leave the 
stockings long in any water. (3) Wash colored stockings in a lather 
in which a little alum is dissolved; do not rub soap on them, put 
them through 2 waters, and rinse in 2 more. A little vinegar or 
salt in the rinsing water will help to fasten and brighten the colors. 
Turn striped stockings inside out to dry, which will keep the color 
from running on the right side. (4) Wash black thread stockings in 
ox=gall; then rinse in vinegar and water. 

CLEANING SILKS. — Wash silk, or anything containing silk, in 
cool water; it is turned yellow by boiling water. Never let soap 
touch it, but a suds prepared with good soap can be used. Iron it 
between folds of linen; but do not let the irons touch the silk. Do 
not have the irons too hot. It turns dark if ironed wet, or even if 
very damp. 

Pongee silk can be washed in a warm suds of soap; rinse well, 
and pass through a wringer, but do not twist or wring with the hands. 
Iron when quite dry with a quite hot iron, laying it between 2 damp 
l^ieces of muslin. Never boil or scald it. The reason it turns dark, 
as ordinarily washed, is because it is ironed wxt; the hot iron turns 
the water to steam, and that scalds and darkens it. A silk which has 
changed color in washing can be partly restored by washing again as 
above directed. If a silk comes from the laundress covered with 
dark spots, it is because it was allowed to dry and then sprinkled, 
and the sprinkling shows; to remedy this, put it in water, dry it, and 
iron it when quite dry. 

Black silk if not very dirty can be freshened by sponging it 
with weak borax or alcohol; if very dirty sponge w^ith a decoction of 
soap bark and water; then hang out to dry. Iron it, when dry, be- 
tween 2 pieces of damp muslin. It can also be sponged with cold, 
strong tea, in which a little hartshorn has been put. 

Black silk is renovated by using a weak solution of coffee 
water. This is the French process. Do not wet the silk too much, 
and rub afterwards with a soft handerchief to restore the luster. 

Wliiie or lifjJtt colored silks of any kind can be cleaned (1) by 
rubbing them willi slightly moistened cornmeal; lay the silk flat on 
a clean blanket, and treat both sides. (2) Rub with a dry powder 
comioosed of fine starch and a little laundry blue; then dust thor- 
oughly. (3) Pink or cream colored silks can be cleaned by rubbing 
them with bread crumbs or chalk. 

Old silks of any color can be cleaned with alcohol; on 1 table- 
spoon of whisky or gin pour 2 cups boiling water; when cool sponge 
the silk with it. 

To Eenovcde Silk. — Potato water is good to clean all kinds. 
Grate the potatoes into cold spring water, say a large potato to each 
quart of water; 5 or 6 will do for a couple of dresses. If for very light 
silk, pare the potatoes; if for dark, mei'ely wash them clean. The 
pan of water must not be stirred in the least for 48 hours; then, very 



THE LAUNDRY 867 

steadily and slowly, pour off the clear liquor (but not a particle of 
the sediment) into a large open vessel; dip the pieces of silk into 
this liquid up and down a few times, without creasing them; then 
wii3e them on a flat table, with a clean towel, first one side, then the 
other. It is well to hang each one, after dipping it, on a li^ie, to 
allow the drops to drain off a little before wiping. Have a damp 
cloth to cover them with till all are done) then iron one way on the 
soiled side. 

Potato Watee. — This is excellent for cleaning cotton or woolen goods as well 
as silk. It can be made a little stronger than the above (use, say, 2 potatoes to 1 
pint water) and bottled for use at any time. The coarse pulp left after pouring 
off the clear liquid is excellent for cleaning carpets, curtains and other thick goods. 
Few people understand the value of potato water; it is one of the best things there 
is for light colored dresses, and no starching is necessary when it is used, because 
potatoes contain so much starch. 

Silk handkerchiefs should be first soaked 10 minutes or more in 
cold salt and water; then wash in the same water; iron, when nearly 
dry, between folds of muslin. They can be washed in a cool soap 
lather also, but never rub soap on them. The reason white silk 
handkerchiefs turn yellow when washed is because they arc boiled, 
or ironed wet. 

If soda has been spilled on black silk an application of acetic 
acid will usually restore the color. 

To RcDiove the SJu'nef'om Black Silk or Fine Black Diagomd. 
— Spread the article on a table or hard surface and rub the shiny 
place with a sponge wet with good cider vinegar until the shine dis- 
api^ears; then hang it up till dry in a shady place, and it will look 
nearly equal* to new. 

To Wash Silk Underclothinci. — Add 1 tablespoon of liquid 
ammoniato each gallon of warm soft water; put in the silk garments 
and let soak ^ to -| hour; then wash them with the hands, rubbing 
soajD only on those places which are soiled most (never resort to 
washboard rubbing); then rinse in lukewarm water, then in another, 
wring out thoroughly, and hang out to dry. Take them in before 
they are quite dry, fold, let lie a few hours only, and iron (the same 
day if possible). Cover the silk with a piece of cloth and iron over 
that, not using a very hot iron and never letting it touch the silk. 

Chamois skin underclothes we now sometimes worn, but we ex- 
plain elsewhere about washing them. 

SATIN. — This can be cleaned (1) with benzine if greasy, or with 
borax water or alcohol. Always sponge it lengthwise — never across 
the width. It will not be injured by having the iron come in contact 
with it, but press it on the wrong side. (2) Mix 2 parts white 
honey, 1 part white soap, and 4 parts whisky; sj^read the satin on a 
clean marble slab, bring the mixture to the boiling point, and apply 
it while hot with a soft brush. Rinse with cold water till it runs off 
clear; do not wring. Init jmt it between 2 linen cloths till nearly dry; 
while damp, iron with a hot iron. It will look like new. 



868 THE LAUNDKY 

LINEN. — Grey or biitf linens may be prevented from spotting 
by stirring 1 tablespoon of black ijejjper into the first water in which 
they are washed. 

To restore linen (1) apply a large handful of refined borax 
which has been diluted with 2 gallons of boiling water, and it will 
become a beautiful white. (2) If linen has turned yellow take 1 
gallon of milk, put in 1 lb. white soap, shaved fine, dissolve it over 
the fii'e, and then put in the linen, and boil ^ hour; take it out, wash 
it in a lather of soap and water, and rinse it through 2 cold waters, 
with a very little blue in the last. 

Wine stains can be removed from linen by holding them in milk 
which is boiling on the fire; many other stains can l)e removed the 
same way. 

To remove mildem from linen, rub on soap, scrape chalk on 
thickly, and lay in the sun; repeat till the spots disappear. 

TO WASH WOOLEN GOODS.— Careful experiment has estab- 
lished the following points: (1) The liquid used for washing should 
be as iiot as jxjssible. (2) For removing greasy dirt, sweat, etc., 
borax is useless. The best thing is soap lye and ammonia mixed. 
This dissolves the dirt, raises and revives the colors, and is most ex- 
cellent. (3) For white woolens, nothing else approaches borax. 
Soaj) lye and borax, applied boiling hot, give white woolens a beauti- 
ful looseness and dazzling whiteness. (4) To avoid shrinkage, Y)ress 
the woolens repeatedly between soft cloths to hasten the drying. 
They are best dried in a current of air, and in cold weather in a 
warm place not too near the stove. Never dry them in the sun, as 
they then become dry and hard. 

For colored woolens put on the stove 7 quarts soft water and ad I 
2 oz. best soft soap (the strength may be adapted to the dirtiness of 
the goods); when hot, and properly dissolved and stirred, divide into 
2 vessels; to 1 add 1 teaspoon of ammonia to each quart of the solu- 
tion, and while it is very hot put in the woolens; stir and x^ress them 
with smooth wooden stirrers, as the hand cannot bear the heat; then 
transfer to the other vessel, to which no ammonia is added, which 
will be partly cooled, and here press the goods with the hands, but 
do not wring or twist them; then remove, and press them between 3 
or 4 soft dry towels, until these no longer tjecome wet; then dry 
quickly in a current of air, but not in the sun. 

For white woolens proceed as above, but instead of the ammonia 
add 1 teaspoon of powdered borax to each quart of the mixture. If 
the second half of the solution is made too soapy, it may be diluted 
with a little hot water. 

If the washing is large, after thus washing 2 or 3 lots of woolens, 
heat the second half of the mixture again, add borax or ammonia, 
and use it to put the goods in first, i^reparing a fresh solution^ to 
serve as the second to which the goods are transferred; that which 
was before used as the first solution can be put away to settle. If 
you wash w^oolen goods thus you will be charmed with the results. 
The method is the result of much experiment. 



THE LAUNDRY 869 

To Clean A Woolen Hood. — (1) Use gasoline; dip in the hood 
and squeeze (but do not wrin^) until the g-asoline looks dirty; then 
dip it two or three times in clean gasoline, rub it between the hands, 
and when clean squeeze as dry as possible; then hang on the line, or 
shake till dry. As gasoline is very explosive never use it near a fire 
or lamp. (2) Rub it well between the hands with dry flour or corn- 
meal, shake well in the open air, and it will look like new. 

To' Clean Whife Woolen Sliaicls or Soiled Lace. — Put them in 
a steamer, over a kettle of strong soapsuds, and steam them in that 
way. 

Drij Cleaning of Flannel and Woolen. — Rub it well with dry 
cornmeal and it will look fresh and clean; white and light colored 
goods may be cleaned in this way. 

Zeplujv Shairh and other goods can be cleaned as above with 
either cornmeal or dry tlour. 

WASHING LACE. — Stitch a piece of muslin firmly around a 
bottle or piece of wood; baste the lace to this, winding it around the 
bottle, and cover with thin muslin; then let it soak for a time in 
melted soap and water, and then pour the water over it several times; 
if very dirty it may be steamed at the side of the fire, then rinse it 
well, blue, dip in the water in which a little rice has been boiled, and 
leave to dry. When unwound from the bottle it has only to be 
picked over a little, aiid either pressed between the covers of a book 
or ironed with a very cool iron on the wrong side. 

Colored Silk Lace. — This should be first soaked for an hour in 
cold soft water, containing a teaspoon of salt to the pint of water; 
then wash it in a cool lather made of soft water and good soap, like 
curd or white Windsor (if you have no soft water add borax to the 
lather), squeeze the lace through this several times until clean, and 
leave it in for a time; then rinse it in clear water containing salt as 
at first, but no soap. If you wish to stiffen it, rinse it in a weak gum 
water or sugar water. S(pieeze it as dry as possible, and iron it on 
the wrong side between folds of clean cloth. 

Lace Curtains. — These should have the dust shaken from them, 
and then put them into lukewarm soft water in which good white . 
soap has been dissolved. Wash gently with the hands, changing the 
water until it is no longer clouded with dirt; rinse them, i^ass through 
the bluing water, and put through a wringer or squeeze them dry; 
but do not wring by twisting with the hands. Before washing them 
measure the length and width of the curtains and as soon as they are 
starched (use boiled starch, und have it l)lued a little) pin them to 
clean sheets fastened to the carpet in some unused room, stretching 
them to the exact size they were before being wet. Do not iron them, 
but dry as quickly as possible. Conduct the whole process quickly, 
as lace shrinks on being wet a hmg time. Or they can be pinned 
to sheets stretched on quilting frames; set the same as for quilting, 
on four chairs set in the hot sun. Some sew up their curtains be- 
tween sheets, and boil them till clean, then rinse, blue, starch, and 
dry as above directed. 



870 THE LAUNDRY 

Many professional cleaners boil lace curtains until clean, in acids and other 
strong chemicals. They look beautiful when sent home, but their texture is 
ruined and they soon wear out, so that it is better when practicable to wash them 
at home. 

To Wash Ecru Lace Curtains. — Put 5 drops ox=gall in 4 gal- 
lons warm soft water; soak the curtains in this i hour, and then draw 
them through the hands a few times so that all parts will receive the 
same friction; rinse in another water prepared the same way, and 
run them through a wringer. Dry them pinned to sheets fastened to 
the carpet as directed alxn^e. When dry, fold them down the center, 
then again several times, and put them for two days under a weight. 
They will look like new. 

Thread and Valenciennes Lace. — This can be washed by let- 
ting it soak well in soft water in which castile soap is dissolved; sop 
it around in it occasionally. When w^ell washed, p;iss it through the 
]:)luing water, containing a little gum arable to stiffen it. Squeeze 
lightly with the hand, but do not twist it, and pin it on a stitf cloth, 
with a pin in each looi), and dry it in the sun. Do not iron it. 
Valenciennes can be tinted by rinsing it in weak coffee instead of 
clear water; have a little gum arable in it to stiffen. Saffron water 
can be prepared by pouring boiling water on saffron; by regulating 
its strength laces can be dij^ped in it and tinted any shade from deep 
yellow to x^ale cream. 

To Wa^h Black Lace. — Mix bullock's gall with sufficient hot 
water to make it as hot as you can bear your hand in it, and pass 
the lace through it; it must be squeezed, not rubbed. Rinse 
through 2 cold waters, tinging the last with a little blue. After dry- 
ing, put it into some stiffening made by pouring boiling water on a 
very small piece of glue; squeeze out, stretch and claj) it. After- 
wards, pin out on a linen cloth to dry, laying it very straight and 
even, and taking care to open and pin the edge very nicely. When 
dry, iron on the wrong side, having laid a linen cloth over the iron- 
ing board. 

To Starclt Lace. — Use a very thin boiled starch, or the liquor 
in which rice has been boiled. Dip the lace in the starch and 
squeeze out. Clap between the folds of a toM^el to i^artially dry it. 
It is always ironed on the wrong side. Lay it on the table, wrong 
side up, and slightly picked out, and place a piece of muslin over it. 
Rub a cool iron over it several times until a little dry. Take it up, 
and with the fingers pick it out to show the iDattern and the edge; 
iron again, pick out once more, carefully draw to each side and give a 
final ironing. The iron must be very cool, or the lace will be very 
stiff; moving it about in the hands and drawing it out tends to make 
it flexible. 

To Tint Curtains or Laces. — Put no bluing in the starch, but 
for ecru mix the starch with water tinted with coffee; for a yellow 
tint use saffron, and for a pink tint use a decoction of logwood. 

To Eevive BJacJc Lace. — (1) Make some black tea about the 
strength usual for drinking, and strain it clear from all leaves. Put 
the lace in a basin, pour on sufficient tea to cover it, and let it stand 



THE LAUNDRY 871 

10 or 12 hours; then squeeze it several times, but do not rub it; dip 
it frequently into the tea, which will at length assume a dirty appear- 
ance. Have ready some weak gum water, and press the lace gently 
through it; then clap it for \ hour; then pin it upon a towel in any 
shape you wish it to take. When nearly dry, cover it with another 
towel and iron it with a cool iron. The lace will now look as good as 
new, if it was merely discolored but sound. (2) AVash the lace thor- 
oughly in some good beer; use no gum water, then clap the lace, 
and dry and iron as in the previous recij)e 

To Clean and Renovate Black and Colored Veils. — (1) Use 
whisky, then stiffen with gum arable water, clap between the hands, 
and lastly iron between 2 moist linen cloths. (2) For black veils 
take 1 pint warm water, add a little ox=gall, and dip the veils into it; 
rinse them in cold water. Then make a weak size by pouring some 
boiling water onto a small piece of glue. Into this hot size dip the 
veils; draw them out quickly, clap them, and stretch them on 
frames, or pin them to dry. 

To Clean Black Lace. — Proceed as explained for cleaning black 
veils. 

Brussels lace should be kept away from perfumes, and from 
the air. 

TO WASH GINGHAMS, PRINTS AND SATEENS To wash 

ginghams, prints and sateens (but not light cambrics) proceed as 
follows: Use no soap, but for 2 dresses mix 1 cup flour in 2 cups 
cold water; then add 3| quarts boiling water and it will make 1 
gallon of flour starch. Into a tub containing 4 gallons of warm 
water put 2 quarts of this starch; then put in 1 of the dresses and 
wash it, rubbing it just as if soap was used; then rinse it through 2 
clean waters, wring out and hang out to dry. The cloth will be 
cleaned by the starch, and will retain enough of it to be stiffened 
sufficiently. Then wash the other dress the same way. Dry colored 
goods thoroughly, and only dampen them a few hours before they 
are ironed. Iron them on the wrong side. Put | cup of salt in the 
last rinsing water if the colors run. If the color is blue and faded, 
adding to the last rinsing water 4 tablespoons of vinegar or 2 of 
acetic acid, will sometimes restore it; but as the chemicals used in 
the dying are not always the same, it will not always work. Do not 
let the fabrics lie in the water but wash them out quickly. A piece 
of alum the size of a walnut added to each pint of starch is some- 
times used to ID reserve the colors of ginghams and calicoes; they are 
also sometimes dipped in salt and water before being put into the- 
washing water, to prevent their fading. 

TO CLEAN SATINS OR SARCINETS.— (1) Thoroughly mix 4 
oz. of soft soap, 4 oz. of honey, the white of 1 egg, and a wineglass of 
gin. Scour w4th a stiff brush, using the mixture; when clean, rinse 
with cold water. Do not wring the satin, but hang it up for a while, 
and iron it while still damp. (2) Scatter French chalk over them 
and brush it off with a hand brush once or twice, (o) Sponge on 



872 THE LAUNDRY 

the right side with dilute spirits of wine, sponging with the nap, not 
asross it. Iron on the wrong side, while damp, placing muslin be- 
tween the fabric and the iron. Do not clean at home satin which is 
to be dyed. (4) Mix sifted stale bread crumbs and powder blue, and 
thoroughly rub it all over the satin; then shake well, and dust it 
with clean soft cloths. Then if there are many silver or gold flowers, 
rub them with a piece of crimson ingrain velvet, which will restore 
them to their original luster. 

TO CLEAN VELVET, VELVETEENS OR PLUSH.— If only 
slightly soiled free them from dust by brushing, and then sponge 
them with benzine, or a weak solution of borax and water. If much 
soiled, S013 them up and down in benzine to which a little water is 
added; then brush over the hack with a strong solution of gum ara- 
ble and water; this stiffens it and prevents the pile from loosening; 
let it dry slowly but thoroughly, and then brush the pile smartly 
until it stands up, and in the right direction. Thus treated, faded 
and greasy dress trimmings may be made to look like new. 

TO WASH COLORED MUSLINS.— Use a lather of cold water 
and soap; if they are black, put in a little salt; if green, a little vine- 
gar, and if lilac, a small quantity of ammonia. Do not use warm 
water even for rinsing them. 

CRAPE, TO RESTORE— Skimmed milk with water, with a little 
bit of glue in it, made scalding hot, is excellent to restore rusty Ital- 
ian crape. If clapped and pulled dry afterwards, like muslin, it will 
look as good as new. Or, brush the veil till all the dust is removed, 
then fold it lengthwise, and roll it smoothly and tightly on a roller; 
steam it till it is thoroughly dampened, and dry it on the roller. 

To Make Old Crape Look Nearly Eqnal io Neic. — Hold it in 
both hands, and pass it backwards and forwards several times through 
the steam coming from the spout of a violently boiling tea-kettle; it 
will make it look fresh and new. 

To restore black crape when spotted by being wet, by the rain or 
otherwise, spread it out on the table with a piece of black silk under- 
neath the spots; then carefully paint over the stains with a soft 
camel's hair brush dipped in black ink; carefully wipe off the sujDer- 
fluous ink with a piece of black silk; when dry the stains will be 
gone. 

Crapes, hoinhazines (Did luoiiriiin;/ goods can be freed from 
stains by using a solution made by boiling a handful of fig leaves 
in 2 quarts of water until it is reduced to one pint. 

BLACK CASHMERE.— This can be washed in borax water; rub 
it with the hands merely, not on a board. Press out the water, but 
do not twist or wring it; or fold it evenly and pass it through a 
wringer; then hang out to dry. Press it out when dry. 

BLACK GRENADINE— This can be renovated by using cold, 
strong coffee, strained clear; wring it out tightly, shake well, and fold; 
to iron, put some black material under it and use a moderately hot 
iron. 



THE LAUNDRY 873 

NANKEEN. — (1) Wash nankeen garments with moderately hot 
soap=\vater; then boil them, rinse, but do not wring them out, and 
hang up to dry, inside out, in a shady place. (2) Let 1 oz. of green 
tea steep in the necessary amount of water 8 or 10 minutes; then, 
while hot, pour the decoction through clean linen cloth onto the 
nankeen article; let it stand till cold, take out, but do not wring out, 
and dry it in the shade. 

WASHING CHINTZ.— Wash it in a suds of the best soft soap, 
containing a pinch of salt and 1 tablespoon of vinegar to the quart; 
rinse quickly in water containing a little salt and 1^ tablespoons of 
vinegar to the quart. 

To Clean Glazed Chintz Curtains. — Shake off the loose dust, 
then lightly brush w^ith a small, long=haired furniture brush; then 
wipe it closely with clean flannels, and rub it with dry liread. If 
properly done they will look nearly as well as at first, and if the color 
be not light they will not require washing for years; fold in large 
parcels and put carefully away. While up they should be preserved 
from the sun and air. as much as possible — these injure delicate col- 
ors; the dust may be blown off with bellows. Curtains may thus be 
kept sufficiently clean to make up again with new linings. 

TO CLEAN CHENILLE PORTIERES OR CURTAINS — These 
are generally sent to a cleaning establishment, but to clean at home 
get 5 or 6 gallons of gasoline (worth about 15 cents a gallon) cover 
the curtain with the gasoline in a washing machine, if you have one, 
and wash about 10 minutes; if not, put in an ordinary tub and sop the 
curtain up and down in it till well cleaned; then squeeze dry, shake 
well to get out the wrinkles, and hang in the shade to dry. Gasoline 
is verij inflammable, and must not be used iiea)- a fire. A good place 
to use it is in the yard on a clear day. The gasoline can be allowed 
to stand and settle; then pour off the clear part and keep tightly bot- 
tled for further use. It will not injure the most delicate colors, and 
can be used to clean gloves, white shoes or silk. The curtains can 
also be cleaned by using equal parts of boiling water and benzine in- 
stead of the |3ure gasoline, if more convenient. 

FADED HANGINGS, TO RESTORE.— Beat out the dust and 
brush them; make a strong lather with castile soap, and apply with a 
hard brush; then with clean water wash off the lather, and then wash 
them over with alum water; let dry, and the colors will usually be 
restored. 

GOLD AND SILVER EMBROIDERY AND FANCY WORK. 

— This should not be cleaned with alkaline and acid solutions, as is 
so often done — it frecpiently destroys their l^eauty. Use instead, 
spirits of wine, either alone or diluted -| with water. 

BED=TICKS, TO CLEAN.— Apply poland starch by rubbing it 
on thick with a cloth; place it in the sun; when dry, rub it if neces- 
sary. The soiled part will be clean as new. 



874 THE LAUNDKY 

COAT COLLARS. — These, when greasy, may be cleaned by satu- 
rating them with l)enzine, and leaving it on until the grease is out; 
then wash off' with soap and water, or ammonia and water. Gasoline 
and turpentine also cut the grease readily. Another way is to apply 
ammonia with a sponge, and then rub well with a dry cloth; repeat 
the operation until the collar is clean. See also the cleaning com- 
pounds given elsewhere. 

BLEACHING— (1) Dissolve 1 lb. of chloride of lime and 1 table- 
spoon of sal soda in soft water, put in 30 yards of cotton cloth, leave 
^ hour, then take out and rinse flioroitc/hlij in soft water, as the solu- 
tion will rot it if not all removed. (2 ) In one (^uart of soft water dis- 
solve ^ lb. chloride of lime, bottle, and cork closely. To use, dilute 
what is needed with an equal quantity of water; it will remove stains 
from table linen which resists milder treatment. (3) Into 4 quarts 
of boiling water put 6 cents worth of oxalic acid; i^our it over the 
clothes, stirring them up well, and leave till the water is cold; then 
spread out to bleach on the grass, and they will soon whiten. Use 
oxalic acid carefully as it is very poisonous. (4) Chloride of lime 
acts with difficulty on animal substances, so that for woolen or 
mixed goods, after washing and while still wet, put them into a solu- 
tion of hyposulijhite of soda, and let them soak several hours; then 
take them out and put them into a solution of tartaric acid, which 
should be ready prepared; keep the vessel well covered, as the action 
of the acid on the hyposulphite develops sulphurous acid, which 
bleaches the articles. Then wash in water containing ammonia, 
which increases their whiteness. 

SETTING COLORS — Most colored fabrics are improved by soak- 
ing them for some time defore being washed in a solution of 1 table- 
spoon of ox-gall to each gallon of soft water. Ox gall sets any color 
in cotton, woolen or silk. 

French linens can have the colors preserved by putting them in 
a strong clean tea of common hay. 

Calicoes with blue or pink colors can have the colors set by put- 
ting soda in the rinsing water. Viiwijdv can be used the same way 
for pink or green. SdJt is good for all colors but blue, but it injures 
that. A little saJf poire in a pail of water will set the color in blue 
cambric. Soaking calicoes, cambrics or muslins for two hours in a 
solution of 1 oz. of sugar of lead to the pail of water is good for all 
colors but blue. Alum icater is used for setting greens and blues. 

Black goods can have the color improved by putting them into a 
solution of 1 teacup of lye to a pail of water. Dark hosiery, cambrics, 
etc., can have the colors set by soaking them two hours in a pail of 
water containing 1 tablespoon of black pepper. 

Scarlet napkins, red table cloths, and red bordered towels, can have 
the colors set by i:)utting borax in the water in which they are wash- 
ed. Putting colored napkins in a weak lye before washing them sets 
the colors. 



GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED 
IN COOKERY. 



Appitisants ( A-pay-tee-zan ). — Small 
savories served before or between the 
courses of a dinner. 

Aspic. — A savory jelly, used mostly for 
garnishing. 

Assiette (ass-yett). — Small entrees not 

exceeding what one plate will hold. 

At dessert, fruits, cheese, etc., if 

served on a plate, are termed ass- 

■ iettes. 

Attelets or Hdtelets (hay-t-lay). — Small 
skewers. When of silver or plated 
they are used in dishing up food. 

All Bleu. — (o-bleu). — Fish dressed in 
such a manner as to have a bluish 
appearance. 

An Gras (o-gra). — Dressed with meat 
stock. 

Au Gratin (o-gratin). — Prepared with 
bread crumbs. 

Au Jus (o-joo).^In the natural juice 
or gravy. 

All Naturel (o-na-tu-rel). — Plain, 
simple cookery; or anything served 
raw, like oysters. 

Bain - Marie (ban ma-ree). — A metal 
pan which has a loose bottom to 
hold hot water, into which small 
vessels can be set to keep their con- 
tents warm. 

Barde{har-d). — A thin slice of fat bacon 
used, when preferred, instead of lard- 
ing, to cover meat, poultry, etc. 

Barder (bar-day). — To bard. 

Barole (bar-oU). — A thin slice of fat 
bacon placed on steaks, fowls, etc., 
instead of larding. 

Baron of Meat. — Two sirloins, or hind 
quarters, not cut apart. 



Baste. — To sprinkle on flour and salt, 
or pour on butter or fat — as on meat 
when roasting. 

Batterie de Cuisine (ba-ter-ee-de-kwe- 
zi-n). — A complete set of cooking 
apparatus. 

Bechamel (bay-sha-mell). — A white 
sauce. 

Beignet (bain-yay). — Another name for 
fritter. 

Bisque (bisk).- — A shell=fish soup. 

Blanc (blanh). — White. Any process 

to give a more delicate appearance 

-as to whiten poultry, etc. Blan- 

chir. To whiten poultry, fruit, veg- 

taables, etc. 

Blanch. — To plunge anything into boil- 
ing water for a few minutes. 

Blanquefte (blaiih-kett). — Thin slices 
of white meat of any kind, warmed 
up in a white sauce and thickened 
with yolks of eggs. 

Blignir (bleen-yay). — To fritter any- 
thing in butter and egg and fry. 

Bonbon (bon-bon). — Sweetmeats. 

Bouchees (boo-shay). — Mouthfuls. 
Small patties filled with various 
preparations. 

Boudin (boo-dan). — Delicate dishes 
prepared from forcemeat, etc. 

Bouillabaise (boo-ya-base). — A fish 
soup. 

Bouilli (boo-ee). — Meat (usually beef) 
which is stewed a long time. 

Bouillie (boo-yee). — A French dish re- 
sembling hasty pudding. 

Bouillon (boo-yohn). — Broth or stock; 
the common soup of France; the 
liquor from the boilli. 



875 



876 



GLOSSARY 



Bouquet of Herbs (bo-kay).— Parsley, 
onion, thyme and a bay leaf tied to- 
gether; used for seasoning soups, etc. 

Bouquet Garni, or Assaisonn6 (as-sai- 
zon-ay)is the same as the foregoing, 
with the addition of cloves or aro- 
matic herbs. 

Braise (brayz). — To cook in a closely 
covered dish or braising pan. 

Braiser. — To stew meat in a braising 
pan. 

Braisiere (brayz-yair). — A pan used for 
braising. 

Brawn. — Flesh of a boar. Also the 
salted and prepared flesh or head of 
a pig. 

Brioche (bree-osh). — A very light bun= 
like cake. Baioche au, couronne is a 
broche in the form of a crown or 
ring. 

Brisket (bris-ket) — The breast of meat, 
or the part lying next the ribs. 

Brider (bree-day). — To pass a thread 
through poultry, game, etc., to keep 
the parts together. 

Brunoise (broon-warze), — Clear soup 
with vegetables. 

CafS au lait (ka-fay-o-lay). — Coffee 
with milk. 

Caf6 Noir (ka-fay-nwar). — Strong, 
black coffee. 

Caisse (kase). — A little case of paper 
or china in which various savories 
are served. 

Calipash (kal-e-pash). — The glutinous 
substance or meat found in the up- 
per shell of a turtle. 

Calipee (kal-e-pee). — The glutinous 
flesh found in the lower shell of a 
turtle. 

Canape (kan-nap). — A small savory; a 
round crouton with a puree in it. 

Cannelons (kan-lohn). — Little rolls of 
pastry variously filled. 

Capilotade (ka-pee-lo-tad), — A hash of 
cooked meat or poultry. 

Capon (ka-pon). — A chicken gelded 
and fattened for the table. 

Caramel. — Sugar heated to 420° F. 
when it loses its power of crystal- 



lization and acquires a dark brown 
color and a bitter flavor. 

Casserole (kas-role). — A crust of rice, 
potato, etc., which is to be filled 
with a ragout or other preparation. 
Also a stew pan. 

Caul (kaul). — A membrane surround- 
ing most of the lower intestines. 

Caviar (ka-ve-arr). — A preparation 
of the roes of certain fish. 

Charlotte (shar-lot). — Thin slices of 
bread steeped in clarified butter and 
placed in regular order and gar- 
nished. They are entremets. 

Chartreuse (shar-treuz). — A dish made 
in a mold which is lined in various 
ways. 

Chaufroids (show-fro-war). — Entrem- 
ets; a thick sauce for purposes of 
masking. 

Chine (kine). — A piece of the back 
bone of an animal. 

Choux (shoo). — Small French cakes. 

Civet (see-va). — A thick, rich stew of 
hare or rabbit. 

Clouter (klou-te). — To insert nail 
shaped pieces of tongue etc., into 
meat or poultry; to put cloves in 
meat. 

Collojy (kol-lop). — A small, thin, round 
slice of poultry or meat. 

Comfits (kon-fits). — Confections ; sweet- 
meats. 

Confitures (kon-fee-ture). — Preserves, 
sweetmeats, jams, etc. 

Compote (kom-pot). — A stew of fruit, 
vegetables, etc. 

Consomme (kon-som-may). — A strong, 
clear soup. 

CoquiUes (ko-kee-ye).— Shell^shaped 
dishes for serving oysters and other 
savories. 

Couronne, En (koo ron). — To serve 
anything like fritters, etc., in the 
shape of a crown or ring. 

Cover. — The place at table arranged 
for each guest. 

Crackling. — The rind of roast pork. 

Crepes (kreeps). — A kind of pan=cake. 



GLOSSARY 



877 



Croqiiantees (kro-kan-te). — A bright 
mixture of fruit and boiled sugar. 

Croquettes (kro-kets). — A preparation 
of minces of meat, etc., flavored and 
fried in any desired shape. The 
word signifies something crisp. 

Croustades (kroos-tard). — Rich pie 
crust or paste, baked in ornamental 
shapes and filled with minces, etc. 

Croiite (krou-t). — Crusts or cakes. 

Croutons (kru-tong). — Fried sippets 
of bread used for garnishing. 

Cullis (kul-lis). — A strong broth of 
A meat, strained and made clear. 
Also a savory jelly. 

Curacoa (kur-a-so). — A flavoring 
extract made from oranges. (See 
"Extracts and Flavorings"). 

Curry (kur-ry). — A kind of sauce con- 
taining pepper and other strong 
spices. Also a stew of fowl, fish, 
etc., cooked with curry sauce. 

Dariole (da-re-ol). — Custard, cream= 
cake, or a sweet tart baked in a 
dariole mold. 

Dartwois (dar-twor). — A French puff= 
paste cake. 

Daube (doe-b). — Stewed meat. En 
daube, is meat, fowl or game stewed 
in sauce. 

Daubiere (doe-bee-air).— An oval stew= 
pan. 

Dauphins (doe-fen). — Tartletts filled 
with preserves. 

Dtsosser (das-os-say). — To take the 
bones out of meat, poultry, etc. 

Doree (doe-ray). — Egg beaten up and 
brushed over pastry to give it a 
golden hue. 

Dorure (doe-roor). — Literally gilding. 
Well beaten yolks of eggs used to 
give surfaces a golden or yellow 
color. Dorer, to gild with the fore- 
going. 

Dresden Patties. — Same as croustades, 
which see. 

Eclair (a-klair). — A small, light cake. 

Entrees (on-tray). — The made dishes 
which follow the first course at a 
meal. 



Entremet (on-tre-may). — Small side 
dishes, usually ornamental, served 
during the second course. Entre- 
mets Sucre, are sweet entremets, and 
include cakes, puddings, etc. 

Epigramme or Epigram (ep-e-gram). — 
An entree in which two materials 
are placed alternately in a ring. 

Escallopies. — Same as coUops which 
see. 

Esjjagnole (es-pa-gnol). — A rich, 
brown, Spanish sauce. 

Fagot. — A small bunch of thyme, pars- 
ley, etc., tied together. 

Farce (fars). — Forcemeat or stuffing. 

Feuilletage (few-e-tazh). — Puff paste. 

Fillet (fil-let). — A piece of meat, game 
or fish cut into a string4ike form. 
Also the under cut of a sirloin of 
beef. 

Financiere (fee-nan-ce-air). — A highly 
flavored ragout or sauce. 

Flamber (flom-bay). — To singe fowl 
or game after being picked. 

Flan (flan). — A French custard. 

Fiance (flarn-s). — Side dishes for 
dinner. 

Flaun. — Small pastry, much like tarts. 

Florentines (flor-an-tin). — Light pastry 
meringued over. 

Flummery. — Originally a sort of pap 
made of flour or meal; now a light 
food made of various ingredients. 

Fondant (fon-dahn). — Literally melt- 
ing; a candy preparation to be 
melted when used. 

Fondue (fon-doo). — A dish made with 
melted cheese. 

Forcemeat. — Mixtures, principally of 
bread crumbs, herbs and suet, 
chopped together very fine and fla- 
vored. 

Frappe (frap-pay). — Meaning literally 
to pack in ice boxes; hence applied 
to beverages partly frozen by being 
packed \n ice. 

Frangipane (frarn-ge-pann). — A kind 
of pastry containing cream and 
almonds. 



878 



GLOSSARY 



Fricandeaux (free-kon-doe). — A piece 
of meat larded and braised; served 
usually as an entree. 

Fricassee (fric-as-say). — Fowls, etc., cut 
in pieces and fried. 

Fritter (frit-ter). ■ — Anything coated 
with egg, batter, etc., and fried. 

Friture (fri-ture). — The substance used 
for frying fritters; frying fat or 
pan; fried meat or fish. 

Galantine (ga-lan-tin). • — Fish, meat, 
poultry, etc., boned, stuffed, cooked, 
and variously garnished. 

Galette (ga-let). — A broad thin cake — 
a kind of muffin. 

Garniture (gar-ni-ture ). — The garnish- 
es or adjuncts to a dish. 
Gateau (ga-toe). — Cake, literally; used 
often to denote a pudding, or a kind 
of tart. 

Gavfres (go-fers). — Waffles; wafers; 
light, spongy biscuit. 

Genoiscs (ge-nwor-s). — Small cakes 
made of French paste. 

Giblets (gib-lets). — The parts of a fowl 
which are removed before cooking, 
as the heart, liver, gizzard, etc. 

Glace or Glaze (glass). — Anything iced. 
In confectionery to cover fruits, 
etc., with sugar which glistens when 
hardened. Also stock boiled down 
thick; used to improve the appear- 
ance of braised dishes. 

Glacer. — To apply the foregoing glaze. 

Godiveau (go-de-vo). — Savory force- 
meats, used for entrees, etc. 

Grenadines (gren-aw-din). — Stewed 
meat; also a dish similar to force- 
meat. 

Granites (grah-nit). — A beverage com- 
posed of light syru2> and the juice 
of various fruits. 

Gras (grah). — Fat. Au gras, means 
dressed with meat gravy. 

Gralin (gra-tin). — Meat, fish, etc., co- 
vered with crumbs and browned. 

Griskin (gris-kin). — The spine of a 
hog. 

Haricot (har-e-ko). — Beans. Also a 
6tew of vegetables and meat; origi- 



nally a dish of meat with harcots — 
hence the name. 

Harslet (hars-let). — The heart, liver, 
etc., of an animal. 

Hartlet (hart-let). — A small wooden or 
metal skewer. 

Hors d' ceuvres (hor-deu-vrr). — Small 
side dishes served after the soup or 
fish. They are considered as appe- 
tizers, and consist of sardines, an- 
chovies, cheese souffles, etc. 

Huckle. — The hip. The huckle bone is 
the thigh bone. 

Jardiniere (zhar-deen-yaire). — A mixed 
preparation of vegetables stewed 
down in their own sauce. 

Julieyine (ju-lien). — Clear soup, con- 
taining vegetables cut in strips. 

Jugged. — Boiled or stewed in a jug; 
thus jugged hare is a dish prejiared 
from stewed hare. 

Kirswasser (keersh-was-ser). — A liquor 
obtained from fermented black cher- 
ries. 

Knuckle. — The knee joint, especially 
of a calf, as a knuckle of veal. 

Kromeskies (kro-mees-kees). — A Rus- 
sian dish, prepared from croquettes 
wrapped in bacon and fried. 

Lard. — French for Bacon; hence to 
stuff bacon into meat, poultry, etc. 
The larding paa is the vessel used 
in larding. 

Lardoiis or Lardoons. — The pieces of 
bacon, pork, etc., used in larding 
meat. 

Liaison (le-a-zon). — Literally a bind- 
ing together; hence a mixture of 
cream, eggs, etc., used to bind and 
thicken soups and sauces. 

Legumes (le-gunie). — From the Latin 
legere, to pluck. Applied generally 
to vegetables which can be gathered 
by plucking, like lettuce, aspara- 
gus, etc. 

Lights. — The lungs of an animal. 

Lit (le). — Literally a bed or a layer; 
hence slices in layers, with seasoning 
between. 



OLOSSARY 



879 



Luting (lu-ting). — A paste used to 
" lute " or fasten the lids on dishes 
of potted game, etc. 

Macaroon (mak-a-roon). — A small, 
sweet cake. 

MacMoine (ma-see-do-an). — A mixture 
of fruits or vegetables. 

Madeleine, (mad-e-leen). — A cake similar 
to pound cake. 

Maigi-e (may-gre). — Dishes made with- 
out meat. 

Maitre d' hotel (me-ter-dotel). — The 
steward. A la maitre de hotel, is 
literally in the housekeeper's or 
steward's manner. 

Maraschino (mar-as-kee-uo). — A fla- 
voring extract made from cherries. 
(See " Extracts and Flavorings.") 

Marble. — To glaze any dish by sprink- 
ling with sugar and then burning it 
with a hot salamander or omelet 
shovel. 

Marinade (mar-e-nadej. — A liquor in 
which to steep meat, fish, etc., to 
heighten the flavor. 

Marinate. (mar-e-nate). — To steep 
anything in a marinade. 

Marmalade (mar-ma-lade). — A preserve 
made of quince or other fruit. 

Mask. — To entirely cover an article 
with any preparation. 

Matelot (ma-t-low). — A fish stew, with 
wine. 

Maw. — The stomach of one of the 
lower animals. 

Mayonnaise (may-on-aze). — A sauce or 
salad dressing, made of oil, etc. 

Mazarines (ma-zar-reen). — Same as 
"turbans," which see. 

Menage (me-nazh). — Family; house- 
hold; housewife. 

Menu (men-oo). — The bill of fare. 

Meringue (mer-rang). — A kind of icing 
made of sugar and eggs beaten to- 
gether. 

Mereijoix (me-ra-pwah). — Essence of 
meat and vegetables. 

Mirleton (meer-le-ton). — Tartlets made 
of chocolate, almonds, pistachio 
puts, or with preserves and jams. 



Mirotin (me-ro-ton). — Slices of meat, 
larger than collops; the meat served 
in a ring. 

Montglas (mon-glar). — A preparation 
of poultry, game, etc., chopped, 
mixed with mushrooms, etc., and 
thickened with sauce. 

Mouiller (moo-yay). — Literally to wet; 
to add water or broth during cook- 
ing. 

Mouse (moose). — The piece of beef cut 
from the part next below the round; 
also called the mouse=buttock. 

Mousse (moose). — Literally moss; a 
preparation of cream, sugar, etc., 
frozen; much like ice cream. 

Nougat (noo-ga). — A cake made of al- 
monds and sugar. 

Noodles (nu-dles). — A mixture of flour 
and eggs cut in strips and boiled. 

Noyau (nwa-yo). — A flavoring extract 
made from almonds. (See " Ex- 
tracts and Flavorings .") 

Nudels. — Same as noodles. 

Omelette (om-let). — Derived from the 
French oeufs meler, meaning ming- 
led eggs. Omelette souffle is a puffed 
up omelette. Omelette aux confi- 
tures, contains jellies and other 
sweets. 

Orgeate (or-zha). — A beverage made 
with sugar, almonds and water. 

Panada (pa-na-da). — A mixture of 
bread, milk, etc., used in making 
forcemeats. Also bread or crackers 
soaked in water or milk and season- 
ed. 

Paner (pa-nay). — To cover with egg 
and bread crumbs. 

Papillotes (pa-pee-yot). — Cutlets, etc., 
cooked and sent to the table in 
papers. 

Parmesan (par-me-zan). — Parmesan 
cheese. 

Parboil (par-boil). — To boil moder- 
ately or in part. 

Panure (pan-nure). — Cutlets, cro- 
quettes, etc., which are covered with 
bread crumbs. 



880 



GLOSSARY 



Pale (pa-tay). — A small pie. Pate de 
foie gras is literally a pie of fat liver. 

Patty or Patties. — Small pies. 

Paupietles (po-pe-et). Slices of meat, 
rolled. 

Petits Fours (pee-tee-foor). — Small 
cakes. 

Piccalilli (pik-ka-Iil-Ii).— An East 
Indian dish of pungent spices, etc. 

Pi^ce de Resistance (pace de ra-zis- 
tarnce). — The principal dish of the 
dinner. 

Pilaff (pe-laf). — Same as pilau. 

Pilau or Pillau (pil-low).— A Turkish 
dish consisting of stewed rice with 
meat or poultry. 

Piping (pi-ping). — Ornamenting pas- 
try, etc., with a piping tube. 

Piquer (pee-kay). — To lard meat. 

Pluck. — The heart, liver and lights of 
an animal. 

Poele (po-ell). — Stock used for boil- 
ing fowls, etc. 

Posset (pos-set). — To curdle; a bever- 
age compound of curded milk, etc. 

Potage (po-taj). — Soup. 

Pot'au'Feu (pote-o-few). — Literally the 
pot on the fire; hence the stock pot 
for soup; also now applied to the 
broth made in the pot. 

Printanier (prin-ta-ne-ay ). — Clear 
soup, with spring vegetables of 
various kinds. 

Puree (pu-ree). — Vegetables, meat, etc., 
reduced to a pulp and mixed with 
liquid to make a thick soup. 
Quenelle (kee-nel). — Delicate forcemeat 

formed into balls and poached. 
Ragout (ra-goo). — A rich stew of meats, 

etc. 
Raisine (ray-ze-nay). — A French jam 

compounded of fruits, etc. 
Ramequins (ram-kin). — An entremet, 

made from cheese, puff paste, etc. 
Ravigote (ray-ve-go). — A rich white 

sauce. 
Rechauffe (ray-show-fee). — Literally 
reheated; hence meat, etc., re warmed. 
Relieves (ral-ve). — Dishes, like roasts, 



which form the substantial part of 

the meal. 
Removes. — Same as relieves. 
Remotdade (rem-oo-lad). — A sharp 

sauce used for salad dressing. 
Rissoles (re-soll). — Puff paste filled 

with minces and fried. 
Roux (roo). — Fried or burnt flour used 

for thickening soups, etc. 
Salmis (sal-me). — Hashes of game. 
Saute (so-tay). — To fry in a frying pan. 

Sauter, is to fry thus in a sauce. 
Savories (sa-vo-rees).— Small dishes of 

cheese, etc., served at the close of 

dinner. 
Semole (see-mool). — A coarse, sand like, 

wheat meal. 
Serviette (serv-yet). — A napkin. A la 

serviette, is served up in a napkin. 
Sherbet (sher-bet). — An agreeable fla- 
vored beverage. 
Sippets (sip-pets). — Small pieces of 

bread, fried and used for garnishing. 
Skewer. — A pointed piece of wood used 

to hold meat in place while cooking. 
Sorbet (sor-bay). — A partly frozen, well 

flavored beverage. Saubeiiere, a box 

used for making sorbets. 
Soufle (soo-flay). — A light pudding. 
Stock. — The broth of which soups are 

made. 
Tamis or Tammy (Tam-my). — A fine 

sieve for straining sauces, broth, etc 
Timbale (tim-bal).— A sort of meat pie. 
Truffle (truf-fle). — A kind of mush- 
room. 
Truss. — To skewer; to prepare fowls 

for cooking. 
Turbans (tur-ban). — Ornamental small 

dishes made of fillets of fish, game, 
. etc. 
Veloide (ve-loo-tay). — A rich white 

sauce. 
Vobau^Vent (vol-o-van). — A crust of 

puff paste filled with a ragout, fruit, 

etc. 
Zest. — The thin yellow rind of orange 

used for flavoring. 



INDEX TO 
COOKERY DEPARTMENT. 



BEVERAGES AND SYRUPS. 



Chicory 562 

Clioea 563 

Chocolate 562, 563 

Cocoa 563, 564 

Coffee 556 to 562 

amount to use 559 

a simple method for 560 

boiled cofiPee 559, 560 

cafe au lait 561 

cafe noir 560 

caramel coffee 561 

coffee i)ot 558 

cream and suiiar for. ..... .558 

essentials of making: 559 

filtered coffee 559 

French coffee 560 

grindin.f? coffee .557 

iced coffee 561 

mixing coffee 562 

origin, etc 562 

over boiling 558 

roasting coffee 557 

settling the coffee 558 

steamed coffee 560 

substitutes for coffee 561 

the water used 55() 

Vienna coffee 561 

with cold water 560 

Mate, or Paraguay tea 561 

Tea, to make 554 

iced 554, 555 

essentials of making 555 

orange tea 555 

origin, etc 556 

the teai^ot 555 

the water used 555 

Miscellaneous beverages . 564 to 570 
about summer drinks ..... 576 
apple water 564 



56 



Miscellaneous beverages (Contin- 
ued ) . 

blackberry nectar 565 

cherry acid 565 

cider 569 

cocoanut beverage 565 

cream soda 565 

currant shrub 565 

currant water 565 

ginger beverage 566 

ginger pop 569 

goose])erry shrub 566 

grape juice and almonds. .565 

grape water 565 

jelly beverages 565 

Koumiss 565 

lemonade, 6 recipes.. .5fj(), 567 

lemon beer 569 

mead 567 

milk beer 569 

oatmeal drink 567 

orangeade 568 

orgeate 568 

Persian beverage 568 

pineapple beverage 568 

raspberry acid. 568 

rasjjberry shrub 568 

rasjjberry water 568 

spruce beer 570 

strawberry acid 569 

strawberry shrub. 568 

strawberry water 569 

tamarind water 568 

tisane 569 

tomato beverage 569 

tutti frutti.. 569 

vinegar water 567 

Honey, artificial 572 

Syrups, 16 recipes . . . 570 to 572 



881 



INDEX TO COOKEKY DEPARTMENT 



BILLS OF FARE. 



Bills of fare 615 to 628 

Breakfast 611 

Dinner, bills of fare for 612 



Purchasing provisions 611 

Vegetables to serve with 
meats etc 613 



BREAD, BISCUIT, GRIDDLE CAKES, MUFFINS, 
WAFFLES, TOAST, SANDWICHES, ETC. 



Bannock, Indian 279 

Biscuit, 14 recipes 273, 274 

Bread, 257 to 272 

baking of 259 

baking powder bread . 262, 268 
baking powder to make . , .265 

Boston brown 269, 270 

bread-box for 261 

brown 269 

buttermilk 269 

Oarolinia rice 271 

corn 270 

cornmeal for 261 

eating hot 261 

entire wheat 267 

essentials of making 258 

gluten r 271 

graham 271 

half and half 267 

keeping of 260 

Kentucky egg corn 270 

kneading of 258 

milk, 267,268 

mixing flours for 261 

mixing of 257 

oatmeal 271 

once raised 268 

oven for baking 259 

pans for 259 

pastry flour for 262 

prepared flour 262 

principles involved in mak- 
ing 262 

potatoes in 262 

pumpkin 272 

rice 271 

rising of 258 

rye 272 

salt rising 268 

squash 272 

stale, to utilize 272 



Bread, steamed corn 270 

sugar in 2(52 

time to bake 266 

water 266 

white 266 

white corn 270 

yeast for 258 

Brioches 275 

Buns, 3 recipes 274, 275 

Cakes, buckwheat, baked . . . 279 

Corn cake 278 

Cracked wheat 288 

Crackers, 4 recipes 276, 277 

Crackers, cheese 202 

Crumpets, 2 recipes 282 

Diamonds, graham 277 

Dodgers, corn 279 

Farina 288 

Flannel cakes 285 

Gems, 3 recipes 280 

Gems, egg 187 

Granula 288 

Griddle cakes, 18 recipes283to285 

Hasty pudding 289 

Hoe cake 279 

Hulled corn 288 

Imperial graiium 288 

Johnny cake, 5 recipes 276 277 

Mufhns, 14 recipes 280. 281 

Mushes. 10 recipes. . .286 to 288 

Oatmeal cakes 282, 283 

Patties, green corn 279 

Pone, corn .278, 279 

Pop overs 283 

Puffs, 2 recipes 283 

Rolls, 4 recipes 276 

Rusks, 2 recipes 275 

Sally lunn 282 

Sandwiches, 40 recipes 290 to 294 

Scones, 2 recipes 282 

Spider cake, 2 recipes 278 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



883 



BREAD, BISCUIT, GRIDDLE CAKES, MUFFINS, WAFFLES, 
TOAST, SANDWICHES, ETC — Continued. 



Toast, 7 recipes 289, 280 

Toast, tomato 253 

Wafers 273 

Waffles, 7 recipes 285, 286 



Wheat germ 288 

Wheatlet with dates 288 

Yeast, 5 recipes 263 264 



CAKES. 



Cakes 346 to 480 

Ahnonds, to prepare 348 

Baking powder 349 

Beating and stirring 352 

Baking cake 353 

Butter for cake 346 

Cake baked in paper 352 

Cake pans 352 

Cinnamon 348 

Citron, preparing for use. . .348 
Cocoanut, preparing for use. 348 

Cream of tartar 349, 350 

Crystallization 398 

Currants, preparing for use. 349 
Dates, preparing for use. . . .349 

Eggs for cakes .347 

Extracts, and flavorings 355 

Frosting, 12 recipes 393 to 395 

Icing, 4 recipes 395 

Ornamental icing. . . .395 to 398 

Paper cones for icing 396 

Piping 397 

Materials for cake 346 

Milk for cake, etc 348 

Molasses for cooking 347 to 351 

Flour, pastry 347 

Fruit cake, hints about 354 

Fruit for cake 348 

Gingerbread, hints about. . .355 
High altitudes, cooking in. .358 

How to mix cake 351 

Eaisins for cake 349 

Soda for cooking 349, 350 

Spices 348 

Sugar for cake 346 

The oven 353 

LAYER CAKES 359 to 372 

Fillings for layer cakes 359 to 363 
almond fillino- 359 



LAYER CAKE FILLINGS (Con- 
tinued. ) 

apple=filling 359 

banana filling 359 

caramel filling 359 

chocolate tilling 359 

cocoanut filling 360 

cranberry tilling 360 

cream filling 360 

cream chocolate filling .... 360 

custard tilling 360 

date filling... 360 

dried fruit tilling 359 

tig filling '. 360 

fruit cream tilling 362 

icing tilling 360 

jelly tilling 361 

lemon filling 361 

lemon honey filling 361 

maple tilling. 361 

mock maple filling 361 

mock whipped cream .... 3(iO 

nut filling .361 

orange tilling 361, 362 

peach filling 362 

plum filling .362 

prune tilling 362 

raisin tilling 362 

raspberry filling. . . .^ 363 

rhubarb filling 362 

strawberry filling. . . .362, 363 

tutti frutti filling.. 363 

whipped cream filling. . . .360 

LAYER CAKES.; ..363 

1-2-3 cake 363 

almond cake . ,- 364 

api^le jelly cake 364 

chocolate, 2 recipes 364, 365 
cocoanut cake, 2 recipes . . 365 



884 



INDEX TO COOKEEY DEPARTMENT 



CAKES — Continued. 



LAYER CAKES (continued.) 

cocoanut white cake 370 

corn=starch jelly cake 368 

cream cake, 3 recipes, 864, 365 

cream puflP s 371 

custard cake 366 

date cake 366 

Denver cake 366 

economical layer cake. . . .366 

fig layer cake 366 

Iroquois cake 367 

jelly cake 367 

Minnehaha cake 368 

nut layer cake 368 

orange cake 368 

oriental cake 369 

peach cake 367 

polonaise cake 370 

ribbon cake 371 

Rochester jelly cake 367 

rolled jelly cake 368 

strawberry cake 373 

vanity cake 372 

white cake 370 

LOAF CAKES 372 to 398 

almond cake 372 

angel's food 373 

apple cake, 3 recipes .... 373 

black cake 374 

blueberry cake 374 

bread cake 374 

buttermilk cake 374 

Cameron cake 374 

Canada cake 375 

chocolate cake 375 

cider cake 375 

citron cake 375 

clove cake 375 

coffee cake 375 

cold water cake 376 

Confederate cake 376 

cornstarch, 2 recipes . . . .376 

cream cake 376 

date cake 377 



LOAF CAKES (Continued.) 

delicate cake 376 

Dennison cake 377 

dough cake 377 

' feather cake 378 

fountain cake 378 

French cake 377 

fruit cake, 6 recipes, 378, 379 

Georgia cake 379 

gingerbread, 13 recipes 

388 to 390 

gingerbread, icing for . . .395 

ginger cake 388 

gold cake 379 

graham 380 

groom's cake 380 

hasty cake 380 

hickory nut cake 380 

huckleberry cake 374 

ice cream cake 380 

imperial cake 381 

lemon '. 381 

marble cake, 2 recipes. . . .381 

molasses cake 382 

mountain cake 382 

quick cake 383 

plum cake 382 

poor man's cake 383 

pork cake 383 

pound cake 383 

one egg cake 382 

orange cake 382 

raisin cake 383, 384 

raised cake 383 

silver cake 384 

snow cake 384 

spice cake 385 

sponge cake, 6 recij)es, 384, 385 

. sunshine cake 386 

Tennessee cake 386 

watermelon cake 387 

wedding cake 386 

white cake 387 

whortleberry cake 388 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



SMALL CAKES, COOKIES, JUMBLES, SNAPS, ETC. 



Almond drops 398 

Anise drops 398 

Cookies, 15 recipes . . 399 to 402 

Cookies, icing for 395 

Cream cakes 407 

Eclairs 405 

Ginger biscuits 402 

Ginger drops, 2 recipes .... 399 

Ginger nuts 899 

Ginger snaps, 4 recipes. . . .403 

Jumbles, 4 recipes 402 

Kisses 406 

Lady fingers 404 



Macaroons, 4 recipes . , 404, 405 

Maple sugar cakes 406 

Patty cakes 406 

Pastry bag, to make 404 

Putfs 407 

Putf s, cream 405 

Sand tarts 408 

Savoy biscuits 407 

Shrewsl^ury cakes 407 

Snaps. 6 recipes 403, 404 

Trifles 408 

Turtle cakes 408 

Vernon cakes 407 



HOME CANDY MAKING. 



Boiling sugar 448 to 450 i 

ball degree 449 

blow degree 449 

caramel degree 450 

crack degree 449 

feather degree 449 

pearl degree 449 

thread degree 449 

Coloring candy 448 

Flavoring candy 448 

"Greasing"' the syrup 450 

Keeping candy 450 

Materials and tools 447 

Pulling candy 448 

Testing the syrup 450 

Candies 451 to 463 

almond creams 453 

balls 453 

bonbons > . 456 

butternut balls 461 

butter scotch 458 

caramels 460 

chocolate creams 453 

cocoanut creams 453, 456 

corn=cake 462 

cough candy 458 

cream candies. . .451, 454, 455 

cream coated fruits 454 

cream nut candy 456 

cream walnuts, dates, etc. .455 

crystallized cherries 461 

crystallized fruits 462 

crystallized nuts 462 



Candies (Continued.) 

drops 459, 460 

fig candy 461 

fondant 451, 454 

French chocolates 461 

frosted or iced fruits 462 

fruit creams 458 

ginger drops 459 

glaces 456 

hoarhound candy 460 

honey candy 461 

lemon creams 452 

lemon drops 459 

lozenges 455 

maple sugar creams 453 

marshmallows 456 

molasses candy 457, 458 

nougat 456 

orange creams 452 

orange peel, candied 463 

patties 454 

peanut candy \ 461 

peppermint drops 459 

popcorn 461, 462 

raspl)erry creams 453 

ratafias 462 

strawberry creams 453 

sweet flag candy 458 

tafPy...; 457 

walnut creams 453 

white candy 462 

wintergreen drops 460 



88r, 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



CANNING FRUITS, VEGETABLES, ETC. 



A word of caution 520 

Breaking of jars 519 

Food value of canned goods. 520 

Improving the flavor 520 

Keeping canned goods 520 

Principles involved in can- 
ning 518 

Sealing the cans 520 

Softening hard fruits 519 

Using salicylic acid 520 

Using sugar 519 

Utensils used 529 

Fruits and Vegetables. 

apples 521 

apricots 522 

asparagus 524 

beans 524 

beets 524 

berries 520 

blackberries 522 

cabbage 524 

carrots 524 

cherries 523, 527 

currants 521,526,527 

corn 523 

damsons 521 

dewberries 521 



Fruits and Vegetables (Contin- 
ued. ) 

elderberries 521 

fruit juices 525 

grapes 522, 526 

gooseberries 521, 526 

greengages 521 

huckleberries 522,527 

juneberries 522 

lima beans 524 

nectarines 523 

jieaches 523, 527 

pears 527 

pears 523, 521 

pineapples 523 

f)lums 521, 523 

pumpkin 524 

quinces 522 

raspberries 521, 522, 527 

rhubarb 522,527 

strawberries 522, 523, 527 

succotash 525 

tomatoes 525 

Meat, Canning of 527, 528 

Canning Without Syrup 52(5 

Cold Proc^ss for Canning 526 



CARVING. 



Beef 636,637 

Calf's head 639 

Capons 645 

Cheese 648 

Ducks 646,647 

Fish 647, 648 

Fowls 645 

Goose 645 

Ham 642 

Lamb 641 

Meat pies 648 

Mutton 639 to 642 

Partridge 646 



Pigeons 646 

Pig, sucking 643 

Plum pudding 648 

Pork 642 

Rabbit 644 

Small birds 646 

Snipe 646 

Sweetbreads, etc , . .647 

Tongue 636 

Turkey 644,645 

Veal 637 to 639 

Venison 643 



COLORS FOR FROSTINGS, CANDIES, ETC. 
A caution 392 I Various colors 392, 393 



INDEX TO COOKEEY DEPARTMENT 



887 



DESSERTS. 



Preliminary Hints. 

ep^os, adding of 409 

molds, use of 409 

rennet, to prepare 410 

sonr cream, to restore .... 409 

Air balls 41(3 

Blanc mange, 7 recipes. 410, 411 

Blanc mange, 5 recijDes 588 

Charlotte russe 417 

Cracker dessert 41 7 

Creams, 7 recii^es 415, 416 

Custards 411 to 415 

almond 413 

apple 413 

arrowroot 413 

baked 412 

banana 413 

Bengal 413 

boiled 412 

chocolate 412, 413 

cocoanut 412, 413 

corn=starcli 412 

float 414 

fruit 413 

lemon 414 

ost kaka 414 

rennet 414 

souffle 414 

soft caramel 413 

steamed 414 

tapioca 415 

tomato 415 

various kinds 415 

Floating island 417 

Jelly and rice dessert 417 

Kiss pudding 417 

Layer pudding 417 

Mock lemon jelly 418 

Molded snow 418 

PufPs, dessert 418,424 

Rice dessert, 3 recipes 418 

Sago float 416 

Scandinavian rogrod 418 

Sponge biscuit for dessert. .419 

Fruit desserts 419 to 426 

apple float 419 

apple Kuclien 419 

apple snow, 2 recipes .... 419 



Fruit desserts (Continued.) 
banana dessert, 2 recipes. 420 

berry dessert 420 

bird's nest 421 

cocoanut corn=starch 420 

flummery 423 

French jellies 421 

fruit cups 420 

fruit desserts, 3 recipes 421, 422 

fruit on toast 426 

fruit puffs 424 

fruit trifle 425 

fruit whip 422 

lemon cream 422 

mock raspberries 425 

mock strawberries .425 

oranges and cocoanut .... 422 

oranges and rhubarb 423 

orange dressing 422 

orange float 422 

orange pudding 423 

peaches and rice 423 

pear meringue 423 

pineapple pudding 424 

prune whip 424 

puffs, fruit 424 

quince snow 424 

raspberry snow 420 

red currant snow 419 

sago with fruit 424 

snowed fruit 421 

strawberry foam 424 

strawberry snow 420 

tapioca nut cream 421 

tapioca with fruit 424 

thickened cream 421 

turon 425 

tutti frutti ^ 425 

Gelatine preparations . . . 427 to 433 

almond blanc mange 428 

apples in jelly 428 

bananas in jelly 428 

calfs foot jelly...' 429 

charlotte russe 429 

chocolate charlotte russe. 428 

chocolate cream 429 

cider jelly 429 

cocoanut cream 430 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



DESSERTS Continued. 



Gelatine preparations (Contin- 
ued.) 

cotfee jelly 429 

English cream jelly. .... .429 

frozen pudding 480 

gooseberry cream 429 

jelly of different colors . . . 428 

lemon cream 430 

lemon gelatine 429 

lemon jelly, 2 recipes .... 430 

lemon whip 430 

Macedonian jelly 431 

mock ice 430 

orange cream 431 

orange dessert 431 



Gelatine preparations (Contin- 
ued.) 
orange jelly, 2 recipes. . . .431 

peach cream 431 

pineapple cream 431 

pineapple jelly 432 

prune jelly 432 

rice cream 432 

Russian cream 432 

Russian jelly 432 

snow pudding 433 

Spanish cream 433 

strawberry jelly 433 

vanilla cream 433 

velvet cream 433 



DOUGHNUTS, FRITTERS, ETC. 



Preliminary suggestions. 

dough, hints about 339 

fat for frying 338 

fat, to clarify 338 

kettle to use 338 

Cannelons 345 

Crullers, 2 recipes 340 

Doughnuts, 6 recij)es . . 339, 340 

Fried cakes, 2 recipes 341 

Jolly boys 341 

Fritters, batter for 342 

apple 342 

banana 342 

berry 342 

bread 343 

cake 343 

carrot 343 

clam 343 



Fritters (Continued.) 

corn 343 

cornmeal 343 

cream 343 

fruit 343 

jam 344 

Jelly 344 

lemon 344 

meat 344 

orange 344 

oyster 344 

pork* 344 

potato 344 

rice 345 

salsify 345 

tripe 344 

various kinds 345 

veoetable 345 



EGGS. 



Egss.. 184 to 191 



Anchovied escss . 



190 



Baked eggs 185 

Boiling of eggs. ..114, 185, 186 

Breakfast eggs 186 

Cold fried eggs 187 

Coloring and dying of eggs . 185 

Creamed eggs 186 

Curried eggs 186 

Deviled eggs 187 

Dropped eggs on toast 187 

Egg gems 187 



Fried eggs 187 

Ham and eggs 190 

Omelets, 8 recipes 188, 189 

Omelet, beef 130 

Pickled eggs 534 

Poached eggs 189 

Poached in gravy 190 

Scalloped eggs 190 

Egg nests 188 

Eggs on rice 190 

Eggs on toast 191 

Escalloped eggs 187 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



889 



EGGS — Continued. 



Scotch eggs 191 

Scrambled eggs 190 

Shirred eggs 190 

Snowed eafws 191 



Spanish eggs 190 

Steamed eggs 191 

Stuffed eggs 191 



EXTRACTS AND FLAVORINGS. 



Allspice, essence of 855 

Almond extract 355 

Bedford flavoring 355 

Celery, essence of 355 

Cherry extract 356 

Coffee extract 35(5 

Curacoa 356 

Curry jjowder 108 

Flavoring sugar 393 

Flavored vinegars 109, 110 

Herb powder 108 

Lemon extract 356 

Laurel flavoring 356 

Maraschino 356 

Noyau 356 



Orange extract 356 

Orange flower water 358 

Orange peel, to grate 358 

Plum extract 35(5 

Ragout p(nvder lOU 

Ratafias 357 

Rose extract 357 

Rose water 356 

Sassafras powder 109 

Tea flavoring 357 

Vanilla extract 357 

Vanilla sugar 357 

Vanilla syrup 357 

Virginia flavoring 31 

Zest 358 



FISH AND FROGS. 



An gratin, fish 57 

Baking fish 55 

Boning fish 49 

Boiling fish 50, 53 

Broiling fish 53 

Broiled salt fish 54 

Caviar 60 

Cleaning fish 48 

Cold fish, utilizing of 58 

Creamed fish 58 

Crimping of fish 60 

Croquettes of fish 181 

Curry of fish 57 

Escalloped fish 58. 59 

Fillets of fish 56 

Fish balls 57 

Fish cakes 59 

Fish chowder 58 

Frying fish 54 

Garnishing of fish 50, 630 

Hints ..49 

Keeping fish 50 

Marinade for fish 54 

Methods of cookiuGf fish 50 



Muddy taste, to remove 49 

Pickled fish 57 

Pie, fish 59 

Potted fish 59, 179 

Redressed cold fish 59 

Sauteing fish 55 

Scaling fish 49 

Skinning fish 49 

Spiced fish 57 

Steamiug fish 52 

Stewed fish 53 

Stuffing for baked fish 56 

Thawing when frozen. 50 

To freshen salt fish 49 

Turbans of fish 57 

Fishes, Cooking of 60 to 81 

alewife 60 

anchovies . . . ; 60 

barbel 61 

bass 61 

blackfish 61 

bleak 61 

bloater 69 

bluefish 62 



890 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



FISH AND FROGS Continued. 



Fishes, Cooking of (Continued.) 

bonito 62 

bream 62 

burbot 69 

butterfisli 62 

carp 68 

catfish 63 

cliar 64 

chub 64 

coalfish 72 

codfish '. 64 

cod sounds 65 

codfish tongues 65 

cusk 69 

dace 66 

drum 66 

eels 65 

flounder 66 

grayling 67 

gudgeon 67 

gurnard 67 

haddock 67 

hake 68 

halibut 68 

herring 69 

lamprey 69 

ling 69 

mackerel 70 

menhadclen 70 

mullet 70 

muskellunge 71 

perch 71 

pickerel 71 

pike 72 

place 72 



Fishes, Cooking of (Continued.) 

pollock 72 

pompano 7H 

porgy 72 

ray 78 

red snapper 72 

roach 78 

roes 73 

salmon 74 

sardines 75 

scrod 65 

scuppaug 76 

shad...' 76 

sheepshead 76 

skate 78 

smelts 77 

sole 77 

sprats 78 

squeteaque 78 

sturgeon 78 

suckers 78 

sunfish 79 

swordfish 79 

tautog 79 

thornback 79 

tomcods 65 

trout 79 

tunny 79 

turbot 80 

weakfish 81 

whitebait 81 

whitefish 81 

whiting 81 

FroQ-s 66 



SHELL=FISH — OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TURTLES, ETC. 



Clams, 6 recipes 82, 83 

Crabs, 6 recipes 88, 84 

Crayfish, 8 recipes 84, 85 

Lobsters 85 to 88 

to kill 86 

au gratin 86 

broiled 86 

buttered 86 

canapes 86 

coral ..86 

coral, substitute for 633 



Lobsters (Continued.) 

creamed 87 

croquettes 181 

curry 87 

deviled 87 

•digestibility of 88 

patties 87 

stewed 87 

Oysters 88 to 92 

broiled 89 

creamed 89 



INDEX TO COOKEKY DEPARTMENT 



891 



SHELL=FISH— OYSTERS, LOBSTERS, TURTLES, ETC — Continued. 



Oysters (Continued.) 

croquettes 181 

deviled 89 

digestibility of 92 

escalloped 89 

fricassee of 90 

fried 89 

fritters 90 

on the half shell 90 

and macaroni 90 

omelet 90 

panned 91 

patties 91 

pickled 91 



Oysters (Continued.) 

pie.. 91 

pigs in blanket 91 

raw 91 

smothered 92 

steamed 92 

stew 92 

toast 92 

unshelled 92 

Prawns 85 

Scallops 93 

Shrimps 85 

Terrapin 93 

Turtles 93 



FOREIGN COOKERY. 



English cookery 589 

French cookery 589 to 592 

German cookery 592 to 59(3 

Italian cookery 596 to 598 



Jewish cookery 602 

Russian cookery 600, 601 

'Spanish cookery 598 to 600 

Turkish cookery 601 



FRUITS AND NUTS. 



Acids in fruits 

About eating fruit 

Apples 466, 

Apricots 466, 

Bananas 466, 

Barberry, the 

Berries 

Bilberry, the 

Blackberry, the 

Blueberry, the 

Cantelopes 

Cherry, the 325, 

Citron 

Cocoanut, the 304, 

Cranberry, the 

Currants 467, 

Dates 305, 

to prepare for cooking . . . . 

Dewberry, the 

Figs 467, 

Elderberry, the 

Gooseberries 467, 

Grapes 467, 

Grape fruit 



165 
464 
501 
500 
480 
507 
466 
511 
544 
466 
4138 
467 
475 
467 
494 
526 
467 
349 
521 
486 
545 
481 
510 
467 



(jruava 

Huckleberry, the 

Lemon, the 

Lime, the 

Mango 

Mangostan 

Melons 468, 

Mulberry, the 468, 

Olives 

Oranges 423, 

Peaches . . 

Pears 470, 

Persimmons .. ^ 

Pineapples 445, 

Plums 471, 495, 

Pomegranite 

Prickly pears 

Raspberries 471, 552, 

Rhubarb, origin^ etc 

Shaddock 

Sloe 

Strawberries 471, 

Tamarind 

Whortleberry, the 



468 

527 

567 

536 

468 

469 

476 

512 

468 

469 

469 

483 

470 

470 

515 

471 

472' 

571 

484 

467 

471 

504 

472 

466 



892 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



FRUITS AND NUTS— Continued. 



Compotes of Fruit 485 to 487 

Cooked fruits 477 to 485 

using sugar in cooking. . .477 

api^les, 7 recipes 477, 478 

apple butter 477 

apple sauce, 5 recipes. . . .479 

bananas, 3 recipes 480 

cranberry sauce 479, 480 

damson sauce 483 

date sauce 480 

dried berries, stewed 481 

fig sauce 481 

gooseberry fool 481 

gooseberry trifle 481 

lemon butter 481 

lemon jelly 481 

quinces, 2 recipes 483 

l^eaches, 3 recipes. . .481, 482 

Ijeach sauce 479 

peaches, to skin 481 

j)ears, 3 recipes 482 

plum charlotte 483 

prunes, 3 recii^es 483 

raisiiie 484 

rhubarl), butter 484 

rhubai'b, stewed 484 

tamarind sauce 484 

tomato butter 484 



Dried fruits 473 to 476 

ai^ples 474 

ajjijles, to skin 474 

blackberries 474 

cherries 474 

citron 475 

cooking dried fruit 474 

currants 475 

gooseberries 475 

keeping dried fruit 474 

peaches 47(5 

pears 474 

pineapples 476 

plums 476 

quinces 474 

watermelon rinds 476 

Nuts 472 

almond, the 321 

almonds, glazed 473 

almonds, salted 473 

almonds, sugared 472 

Brazibnuts 472 

chestnut, the 151 

chestnuts, roasted 472 

peanut, the 461 

peanuts, salted 473 

walnut, the 548 

walnuts, salted 473 



GARNISHING FOOD. 



Anchovies, for garnishing. . .633 
Aspic jelly for garnishing.. .633 

Beefsteak . . . /. 632 

Bread crumbs, for garnish- 
ing 633 

Bread, fried, foii garnishing. .633 

Chops "..632 

Cold meats (533 

Cutlets 632 

Ducks 632 

Entries 633 

Fish (530 

Fowls 632 

Game 632 

Geese 632 

Glaze, to make 633 



Hash 633 

Hints 633 

Joints 631 

Lemon, for garnishing 634 

Lobsters 631 

Lobster coral, substitute for 633 

Oysters 631 

Parsley, for garnishing ()34 

Roast beef (531 

Roast lamb 632 

Roast veal 631 

Rump steak 631 

Salads 633 

Soup (529 

Tongue 632 

Turkey 632 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



893 



HASH AND CROQUETTES. 



Croquettes ..179 to 182 

baked 180 

brain 180 

chicken 180 

chicken and oyster ....... 180 

fish 181 

hominy 181 

konftas . 183 

kromeskies 182 

lobster 181 

meat 181 

oyster 181 

potato 182 

rice 181 

Scotch collops 182 



Croquettes (Continued.) 

veal 181 

HASH 176 to 178 

baked 177 

corned beef 177 

French 177 

garnishing of 633 

ham 177 

pie 178 

pilaff 179 

Scotch 177 

turkey 178 

veal 178 

vegetable 178 

Scrapple 178 



ICE CREAMS, WATER ICES AND SHERBETS. 



Frappes 444 

Granites 444 

Ice cream 434 to 443 

arrowroot for 434 

canned fruits for 435 

coloring of 437 

condensed milk for 434 

cream for 434 

freezing the cream 435 

ice for 434 

molds for 437 

packing down 436 

principles involved in mak- 
ing 436 

salt for 435 

sugar for 434 

syrujj for 437 

Ice Creams. 

almond 440 

baked aj)i3le 440 

banana 440 

bisque 440 

brown bread 441 

burnt almond 440 

caramel 440 

chocolate 441 

coffee 441 



Ice Creams (Continued.) 

frozen fruit 443 

fruit 441 

fruit juice 441 

fruit UKjlds 443 

gelatine 441 

iced strawberry i3udding..443 

lemon 441 

macaroon 441 

macedoines 442 

mousse 443 

Neapolitan ice ' cream, 

4 recipes 438 

nesselrode pudding 442 

nut 442 

orange 442 

pineapple 442 

pistachio 442 

Philadelphia ice cream, 

3 recipes 438 

tea 441 

tutti frutti 442 

vanilla 442' 

Sherbets 444, 445 

Sorbets 446 

Water ices 444, 445 



894 INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 

INVALID COOKERY. 



Appetite, the 579 

Apple water 583 

Arrowroot 585 

Asses' milk 585 

Barley water 583 

Beef juice 582 

Beef tea. 582, 583 

Beef tea, value of 577 

Bilious tendency 579 

Blanc mange, 5 recipes 588 

Bread jelly 576 

Broth, 2 recipes 581 

Broth, value of 578 

Buttermilk, use of 577 

Cocoa, for invalids 579 

Coffee, for invalids 579 

Consumptive tendency 579 

Cream, use of 577 

Diet, its importance 580 

Elm jelly 587 

Egg drinks, 3 recipes 584 

Eggs for invalids 582 

Eggs, use of 577 

Essence of meat 581, 582 

Fats and oils 580 

Fats for the system 577 

Fat, to remove from broth . . 581 

Fever cases. . 576 

Fine flour bread 578 

Flaxseed tea 584 

Flour, baked or boiled 58(i 

Frangipane 586 

Goat's milk 585 

Goat's mitk, artificial 585 

Gout 589 

Gruels, 7 recipes 586, 587 

Iceland moss 588 



Jellies 587, 588 

Jelly, gelatine and isinglass. 578 

Juice of fruits 579 

Lemonade, hot 583 

Licorice tea 584 

Lime 580 

Lime water 584 

Linseed tea 584 

Meat patty 582 

Milk porridge 587 

Mutton, toasted 582 

Oatmeal jelly 587 

Panada, cracker 588 

Porridge 587 

Rennet whey 584 

Restorative jelly 587 

Rice and milk 585 

Rice jelly 587 

Rice water 583 

Sandwiches, raw beef 582 

Scrofulous diseases 580 

Sippets 586 

Slippery elm tea 584 

SouiJ, milk 581 

Steak, broiled 582 

Stomach and bowel disorder.576 

Suet and milk 586 

Swiss cream 585 

Tapioca jelly 587 

Tea, for invalids 579 

Toast, milk or cream 586 

Toast, value of 578 

Toast, water 583 

Vegetables, for invalids 579 

Wine jelly 588 

Whey, use of 577, 584 

Wine whey 584 



JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, PRESERVES, FRUIT PASTES 
AND FRUIT CHEESES. 



General suggestions 488 

coloring preserves, etc.. . .490 
keei^ing preserves, etc... 490 

mold, what it is 490 

pectose in fruits 489 

principles involved 489 



General suggestions ( Con- 
■ tinned.) 

putting in jars 490 

the sugar used 488 

the water used 489 

utensils used 489 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



895 



JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, PRESERVES, FRUIT PASTES 
AND FRUIT CHEESES— Continued. 



Fruit cheeses, 4 recii^es, 499, 500 
Fruit pastes, 8 recipes 500 to 502 

Jams 502 to 504 

api^le ginger 502 

apple jam 502 

barberry jam 503 

blackberry jam 502 

cherry jam 503 

currant jam 503 

gooseberry jam 503 

grape jam 503 

quince jam 504 

pineapple jam 503 

pineapple parings, to uti- 
lize ^ 503 

plum jam 503 

raspberry jam 504 

rhubarb jam 504 

strawberry jam 504 

tomato jam 504 

vegetable marrow jam . . . .504 

Jellies 491 to 49G 

Hardening jelly 492 

Jelly bags 492 

Making jelly 491 

Removing jelly from a glass 492 

Testing jelly ":.... 492 

apple jelly 493 

blackberry jelly 493 

cherry jelly 493 

crab apple jelly 493 

cranberry jelly 493 

currant jelly 493 

damson jelly 495 

dried apple jelly 493 

gooseberry jelly 495 

grape jelly 495 

guava jelly 494 

mango jelly 495 

quince jelly 495 

peach jelly 495 

pear jelly 495 

plum jelly 495 

plum and apple 493 

raspberry jelly 493 

rhubarb jelly 496 



Jellies (Continued.) 

strawberry jelly 493 

tutti frutti jelly 496 

various jellies 493 

wild plum jelly 496 

Marmalades 496 to 499 

making marmalade 496 

testing marmalade 496 

aj^ple marmalade 497, 498 

apricot marmalade 497 

blackberry marmalade .... 498 
crab apple marmalade .... 498 

grape marmalade 497 

orange marmalade 497 

quince marmalade . . . 497, 498 

peach marmalade 497 

pear marmalade 497 

plum marmalade 498 

raspberry marmalade 498 

rhubarb marmalade 497 

strawberry marmalade .... 498 

tomato marmalade 499 

various fruit marmalades. 497 

vegetable marrow 499 

Preserves 505 to 517 

Canned fruit for preserves . . 505 

Cooking the fruit. 505 

Graining of syrup 506 

Hardening fruit 505 

Keeping preserves 505 

Syrup for preserves 506 

Time to boil fruits 506 

apple i^reserves 506 

apricot preserves . . . .507, 514 

barberry preserves 507 

bilberry preserves ....... 511 

blackberry preserves .... 507 

cantelope, preserved 517 

cherry preserves 508 

citroii preserves 508 

crab apple preserves 507 

cranberry preserves 509 

currant preserves .... 508, 509 

damson preserves 511 

dewberry preserves 508 

. fig preserves 509 



896 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



JAMS, JELLIES, MARMALADES, PRESERVES, FRUIT PASTES 
AND FRUIT CHEESES— Continued. 



Preserves (Continued.) 

tj^inyer preserves 510 

•jjooseberry preserves 510 

greengage preserves 511 

grape preserves 510 

huckleberry preserves. . . .511 

lemon preserves 512, 513 

limes, iH'eserved 51H 

nectarine jDreserves 514 

orange preserves 513 

mulberry preserves 512 

muskmelon preserves. . . .512 



Preserves (Continued.) 

loeach preserves 518, 514 

l^ear preserves 514 

pineapple preserves 514 

plum preserves 515 

pumpkin preserves 515 

quince preserves 516 

raspberry jjreserves 516 

strawberry preserves 515 

tomato figs 509 

tomato preserves 516 

watermelon, preserved .... 517 



MEATS, GAME, POULTRY. 



Baking meats 112 

Barding 122 

Basting 112 

Boiling meat 113 

Boning meat 122 

Braising 120 

Broiling meat Ill 

Burning fat 125 

Canning meat 527, 528 

Cold meat 125 

Daubing 122 

Drippings 123 

Fats and oils : . 117 

Fat, to clarify 118 

Flour, to brown 127 

Fricasseeing 116 

Frozen meat, to thaw 125 

Frying 116 

Garnishing meat 127, 631 

Glazing . .^ 122, 633 

Gravy, to make 125 

Grilling Ill 

Larding 121 

Odor of boiling, to overcome 125 

Meat pie 153 

Meat pies, dangerous gases in 153 

Potted meat 179 

Preserving of meat 135 

Ragouts 116 

Roasting meat 112 

Salt, its action on meat 124 

Salt meat, to cook 114 



Sauteing 119, 121 

Steaming 120 

Stewing meat 114 

Tainted meat 149 

Thermometers, use of 123 

Tough meat, to make tender 124 
To Egg and Bread-crumb. . .122 

Washing meat 124 

Water, use of hard and soft. 124 

BEEF 127 to 135 

a la mode 130 

balls 128 

cheese 128 

daube 128 

beefsteak, 7 recipes . . 133, 134 

boiled dinner 134 

chipped beef 128 

corned beef 128 

deviled beef 128 

dried beef 128 

dried beef relish 129 

fillet of beef 129 

frizzled beef 129 

Hand)urg steak 134 

heart, to cook 129 

hunter's beef 129 

kidneys, to cook 130 

liver, 2 recipes 130 

location of parts in beef . . 165 

minced beef 134 

mock duck 130 

mock sausage 135 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



897 



MEATS, GAME, POULTRY— Continued. 



BEEF (Continued.) 

omelet, beef 130 

pot pie 131 

pot roast 131 

pressed beef 131 

roast beef 132 

roast ribs of beef 132 

Salisbury steak 133 

sausage roll 135 

spiced beef 132 

tongue, broiled 132 

tripe 133 

Yorkshire pudding 132 

MUTTON AND LAMB. . .140 to 143 

kid, to cook 143 

lamb, escalloped 143 

lamb's fry 169 

lamb, grilled 143 

lamb, leg of 141 

lamb's liver, curried 143 

lamb j)ie 141 

mutton and rice 141 

mutton and tomatoes 142 

mutton, boiled 140 

mutton chops 141 

mutton ham 141 

mutton i^atties 141 

mutton pies 141 

mutton rechauffe 142 

Irish stew . . 142 

location of parts in mutton 168 

roly poly 143 

scrambled mutton 142 

Scotch stew 142 

sheep's brains 143 

tongues, boiled 142 

PORK 141 to 148 

brawn 148 

chines 145, 146 

cooking of pork 146 

cutlets 146 

fried salt pork 147 

ham, 5 recipes 144, 145 

head cheese 148 

location of jDarts in pork . . 167 

pig's feet, boiled 145 

pig, roast 145 

pork and eggs , , . , 146 

57 



PORK (Continued.) 

pork, rechaufPe 146 

roast pork 145 

salt pork dinner 147 

pork steaks 146 

spare-ribs 145 

Sausages, to cook 148 

Souse, 2 recipes 147 

Worst, pork 148 

VEAL 135 to 140 

breakfast veal 136 

calf's brains 136 

cheese, veal 128 

creamed veal 136 

cutlets, breaded 136 

fillet, roast 137 

liver, fried 136 

liver, stewed 137 

location of parts in veal. ..166 

mayonnaise 137 

.molded veal 137 

old veal 135 

pot^pie 137 

pot^pie crust 138 

roast veal pie 138 

scalloped veal 138 

smothered veal 139 

spiced veal 139 

veal and ham pie 138 

veal loaf 137 

veal stew 139 

veal toast 139 

Sweetbreads, 3 recii3es.l39, 140 

GAME 158 to 164 

Garnishing for game . . . 159, 632 

Keeping game 159 

Tainted game, to restore. . . .159 
Wild flavor in, to overcome. 159 

bear 164 

black=bird pie 160 

buffalo 164 

cranes 159 

duck, wild...' 160 

grouse 163 

herons 159 

opossum 163 

partridges 160 

pigeons, to cook- 159, 160, 161 



898 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



MEATS, GAME, POULTRY— Continued. 



GAME (Continued.) 

jjlovers 159, 161 

prairie chickens 159, 162 

quails 159, 162 

rabbits 163 

raccoons 164 

small birds 162 

snipes, to cook 159, 162 

squabs 161 

squirrels 164 

venison 164 

woodchucks 164 

woodcocks 159, 162, 163 

POULTRY 148 to 158 

Boned poultry 150 

Breakfast dish, a 158 

Dressing for poultry 150 

Onions, use of 149 

Strong smell, to overcome . . .149 
Stuffing for poultry . . . 150, 151 

Tainted meat 149 

Chicken and oysters 152 

and rice '. 153 

and tomatoes 154 

boiled 151 

cheese 152 



POULTRY (Continued.) 

Chicken, loaf 152 

escalloped 152 

fricassee 151 

patties 152 

pie 153 

gases in chicken jne 153 

pressed 153 

shortcake 1 54 

supreme 154 

tarts 154 

Ducks 156 

Fowls, fried ..154 

garnishing, fowls 149, 632 

minced 155 

rechauffe 155 

steamed 155 

to make old tender 155 

to draw 149 

to truss . . . .» 150 

Guinea fowls 155 

Geese ..156 

Giblets 155 

Giblet gravy 157 

Turkey, 4 recipes 157, 158 



CUTTING UP AND CURING MEATS. 



Beef, Hamburg , 172 

parts in 165 

spiced corn 171 

to corn 171 

to cure 170 

to dry 172 

Bladders, to prepare 173 

Curing meat I'^Q 

Hams, 4 recipes .170, 171 

Lamb, to cut up 169 

Lard, to keep sweet 175 

Lard, to make 175 

Mutton, parts in 168 

Pickle for meat . . .169, 171, 173 

Pig's feet, pickle for 173 

Pork, cutting up 167 



Pork, parts in 167 

Rennet, to prepare 173 

Sausages, to make 173, 174 

Smoking meat 174 

Suet . .175 

Tallow, to clarify 175 

Rennet, to prejiare 173 

Sausages, to make 173, 174 

Smoking meat 174 

Suet 175 

Tallow, to clarify 175 

Tongues, to cure 172, 173 

Tripe, to clean 173 

Veal, parts in 166 

Venison, to cut up 169 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



899 



MILK, BUTTER AND CHEESE. 



Butter 193 to 197 

anchovy 291 

clarified or ghee 194 

mustard 291 

fats, a word about 195 

rancid 196 

substitutes for 194, 195 

to cream 317 

to keep hard 197 

to keep sweet 196 

to make quickly 193 

to salt 194 

various butters 99, 100 

washing of 194 

Butterine 194 

Oleomargarine 194 

Cheese 197 to 202 

and macaroni 200 

boiled 199 

cottage 199 

cheese crackers 202 

cream . . . , 199 

Devonshire cream 199 



Cheese ( Continued. ) 

cheese fondue 200 

fritters 199 

home scallop 200 

Italian curds 200 

mode of serving 198 

Parmesan 198 

polpetti 200 

potted 201 

smear case 201 

straws 201 

rennet for 198 

welsh rarebit 201 

with potatoes 243 

with rice 248 

with toast 201 

Milk 192 to 193 

buttermilk 193 

cream, substitute for ....317 

canned or condensed 192 

solidified 192 

sour 193 

suarar of 192 



PASTRY PIES, SHORTCAKES, TARTS. 



Pastry....... 295 to 314 

Baking tins for pastry 298 

Butter for pastry 297 

Cornmeal for pastry 300 

Doree 300 

Flour for pastry 295 

Gilding .300 

Meringue 300 

Method of making paste . . . 295 

Oven, the 298 

Paste, 4 recipes for making. 301 
Principles involved in mak- 
ing 299 

The two crusts 298 

To prevent juice from run- 
ning out 299 

Pies, crust for, 2 reclines .... 301 

time to bake 302 

apple, 6 recipes for 302 

apple cobler 309 

banana 303 

carrot 803 



Pies (Continued.) 

cherry, 3 recii^es 

chocolate 

cocoanut, 2 recipes . . 303, 

corn= starch 

cream, 4 recipes 304, 

currant 

custard, 3 recipes. . . .305, 

date 

elderberry 

fish 

fried 

fruit 

gooseberry 

grape 

hash ^ 

hickory=nut . 

huckleberry 

lemon, 2 recipec 

mince, 6 recipes 307, 

orange, 2 recipes 

oyster 



303 
303 
304 
304 
305 
305 
306 
305 
306 

59 
306 
306 
306 
306 
178 
306 
307 
307 
308 
308 

91 



900 



INDEX TO COOKEKY DEPAKTMENT 



PASTRY — PIES, SHORTCAKES, TARTS— Continued. 



Pies (Continued.) 

peach -.309 

pear 309 

pineapple 309 

potato 309 

prune "310 

pumpkin, 2 recipes 310 

raisin 310 

rice 311 

rhubarb 310 

squash 311 



Pies (Continued.) 

strawberry 311 

sweet potato 310 

tomato 311 

transparent 311 

vinegar 311 

Washington 311 

Shortcakes, 10 recipes. 313, 314 

Tarts 306 

Tarts, 7 recipes 312, 313 



PICKLES, CATSUPS, SOYS, SPICED FRUIT. 



Catsups 546 to 548 

ajji^le 546 

cherry 546 

crab apple 546 

cucumber 546 

currant 546 

elderberry 547 

gooseberry' 547 

grape ' 547 

lemon 547 

mushroom 547 

oyster 547 

pepper 548 

tomato 548 

walnut 548 

Pickles 530 to 544 

A caution 530 

Alum, use of 530 

Brine for pickles 531 

Coloring pickles 530 

Keeping pickles 531 

Kettle, the, to use 531 

Parboiling 530 

Spices 531 

The vinegar 530 

Sour pickles 531 to 540 

artichokes 532 

beans 532 

beans, in salt 533 

beets 531 

butternuts 539 

cabbage 532 

carrots 532 

cauliflower 532 



Sour pickles (Continued.) 

celery 532 

cherries 532 

chili sauce 539 

chow chow 540 

cucumbers, 6 recipes 

533, 534, 535 

cucumbers, salted 534 

corn 533 

eggs 534 

French pickles 539 

gherkins 534 

Jersey pickles 535 

lemons 535 

limes 535 

martynias 536 

mango 536, 537 

mixed pickles 536 

mushroom 537 

mustard 637 

nasturtium 537 

onions 538 

ornamental pickles 539 

oysters 538 

parsley 538 

peppers 538 

piccalilli 538 

Russia pickles 539 

tomato 538, 539 

turnips 539 

walnuts 539 

Sweet pickles 540 to 544 

method of making 541 

apples 541 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



901 



PICKLES, CATSUPS, SOYS, SPICED FRUIT— Continued. 



Sweet pickles (Continued.) 

beets 541 

blackberries 541 

blueberries 541 

cabbage 541 

cantelope 541 

cauliflower 542 

cherries 542 

citron 544 

crab apples 541 

cucumber 542 

figs 542 

grapes 542 



Sweet pickles (Continued.) 

peaches 543 

pears 543 

pineapple 543 

plums 542 

quinces 543 

raisins 543 

raspberries 541 

strawberries 541 

tomato, 3 recipes 543 

watermelon rind 544 

Soys, 6 recipes 548, 549 

Spiced fruit, 1 1 recipes .... 544, 545 



How to plan, 



PICNICS. 

603 I Things to carry , 

PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS. 



.603 



Dumplings, 6 recipes 336, 337 

Pandowdy 337 

Puddings, baking of 316 

boiling of 316 

cloth for 315 

creaming butter for 317 

steaming of 316 

almond 321 

apple 321 

apple, Indian 322 

berry 322 

bird's nest 322 

black 322 

bread, 4 recipes 323 

bread crumb 322 

cake, 3 recipes 323, 324 

California 324 

canned 324 

charlotte 324 

cherry 325 

chocolate 324 

Christmas 325 

cocoanut 325 

corn 229, 326 

corn=starch 326 

cottage, 3 recipes 326 

cracked wheat 327 

cracker 326 



Puddings (Continued.) 

cranberry 326 

date 327 

Delmonico 327 

Dover 327 

English 327 

farina 328 

feather 328 

fig 328 

fruit 328, 331 

ginger 328 

gold 329 

gooseberry 328 

graham 329, 331 

Hanover 329 

huckleberry 329 

iced strawberry 443 

Indian, 5 recipes . . . .329, 330 

lemon, 2 recipes 330 

Lowell 330 

minute 330, 331 

nesselrode 442 

orange 331 

Oxford 331 

peach, 2 recipes 331 

l^lum, 2 recipes 332 

l^otato 331 

princess 332 



902 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



PUDDINGS AND DUMPLINGS -Continued. 



Puddings (Continued.) 

prune 332 

putf 332 

queen 332 

raisin 333 

raspberry 333 

ratafia 333 

rhubarb 333 

rice, 3 recipes 334, 335 

roly poly 334 

sago 334, 335 

sponge 334 

steamed 335 

suet, 2 recipes 334 

tapioca, 4 recijDes .... 334, 335 
whortleberry 335 

Pudding sauces 317 to 321 

acid 317 

berry 318 

brown 318 

caramel 317 

caramel syrup 317 

cider 318 

cream 318 

cream, substitute for 317 



Pudding sauces (Continued.) 

delicate 318 

Dutch 318 

egg ._ 318 

foaming 318 

fruit juice 319 

golden 319 

jelly 319 

lemon, 3 recipes 319 

lombard 319 

maple 319 

maple sugar 319 

milk 320 

mock whipped cream 360 

molasses 320 

orange 320 

pineaiDple 320 

plain 320 

plum, 2 recipes 320 

sweet 320 

vanilla 319, 320 

vinegar 321 

whipped cream 318 

white 321 



SALADS. 



Introductory explanations. 

Oils, to use 203 

To fringe celery 204 

To marinate salads 204 

Salad dressings 204 to 206 

boiled dressing 205 

cream dressing 205 

dressing without oil 205 

egg dressing 205 

French dressing 204 

mayonnaise dressing 204 

Swiss dressing 205 

Salads. 

aguacate 213 

apple 213 

asparagus 206 

barberry 214 

beef 211 

beet 206 

boiled 206 



Salads (Continued.) 

cabbage 206 

carrot 206 

cauliflower 206 

celery 207 

cheese 212 

cheese and egg 212 

chervil .' 208 

chicken 211 

chicory 207 

cold slaw 206 

cold slaw, dressing for. . . .'207 

crab 212 

cranberry 214 

currant 214 

creamy 207 

cream slaw 207 

cucumber 208 

dandelion 208 

egg 212 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



903 



SALADS— Continued. 



Salads (Continued.) 

endive 207 

escarole 207 

fetticus 208 

fish 212 

French fruit 214 

fruit. 213 

gelatine 210 

gooseberry 214 

grape fruit 214 

ham 211 

hot slaw. 207 

in jelly 209 

lamb 211 

lamb's lettuce 208 

lemon 214 

lettuce 208 

lime 215 

lobster 212 

melon 214 

nut 215 

okra 208 

orange , , . . , 214 

oyster 212 



Salads (Continued.) 

peppers 208 

potato 209 

red vegetable 210 

Russian 209 

salmon 213 

salsify....... 209 

sardine 213 

shrimp 213 

slaws 20(3, 207 

spinach 209 

string bean 206 

sweetbread 211 

sweet potato 210 

summer 209 

tomato 210 

tongue 211 

various vegetable 210 

veal .\ 211 

walnut 215 

water cress 210 

watermelon 214 

winter 210 



SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELLFISH AND MEATS. 



Coloring for sauces 96 

Herbs, etc 95 

Roux, to make 97 

Thickening for sauces 95 

The utensils used in making 

sauce. 95 

Flavored vinegars 109, 110 

Sauces. 

Anchovy sauce 99 

Asj)ic jelly 98 

Bechamel sauce 99 

Bordeaux sauce 98 

Bread sauce 98 

Brown sauce 99 

Butters, 6 recipes 99, 100 

Caper sauce 100 

Capers, mock 100 

Cauliflower sauce 100 

Celery sauce 100 

Chestnut sauce 101 

Chutnee sauce 101 

Cranberry sauce 102 



Cream sauce 101 

Cucumber sauce 101 

Currant sauce 101 

Curry powder 108 

Curry sauce 102 

Drawn butter sauce 99 

Egg sauce 102 

Fennel sauce 102 

Fish sauce 102 

Herb powder for flavoring. . . 108 

Hollandaise sauce • • • • 102 

Horseradish sauce 102 

Lemon sauce 103 

Lobster sauce 103^ 

Mandram sauce 103 

Matelote sauce^ 103 

Milk sauce 104 

Mint sauce 104 

Miss Maitland's mayonnaise 104 

Mushroom sauce 104 

Mustard, 4 recipes 104, 105 



904 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



SAUCES FOR FISH, SHELL=FISH AND MEATS Continued. 



Navy sauce 105 

Nut sauce 105 

Olive sauce 105 

Onion sauce 106 

Oyster sauce 106 

Parsley sauce 106 

Pepper sauce 106 

Pickle sauce 106 

Potato sauce 106 

Raisin sauce 106 

Ragout powder 109 

Sassafras powder 109 



Sauce piquante 106 

Sauce Robert 106 

Sauce supreme 107 

Sauce tartare 107 

Sauce Velonte 107 

Shrim J) sauce 106 

Tartar sauce 107 

Tomato sauce 107 

Walnut sauce 108 

White sauce ." 99 

Worcestershire sauce. .107, 108 



SOUPS. 



Broth 24 

Browned crackers 31 

Caramel for soup 31 

Clarifying soup 27 

Colorings for soup .28 

Croutons 29 

Egg^balls.. 31 

Fat, to remove from souid .... 22 

Fish stock 27 

Flavorings 23 

Forcemeat 29 

Hints 24, 27 

Lobster butter 28 

Noodles 29 

Onions, use of 23 

Principles involved in mak- 
ing 20 

Quenelles 28 

Salt, to modify taste of 24 

Seasonings 24 

Soup=boquet 30 

Soup^bunch 30 

Stock 21, 24, 27 

Suet dumplings 29 

Thickening 30 

Utensils used 19 

Veal stock 26 

Virginia flavoring 31 

Soups. 

alma mata 39 

almond 32 

asparagus 32 

barley 32 



Soups (Continued.) 

bean, 3 recipes .32 

beef 39 

bisc^ue of lobster 45 

Boston 45 

bouillon 39 

cabbage 33 

carrot 33 

celery 33 

chicken 40 

chicken and gumbo 40 

clam ■ 46 

clam chowder 46 

clear 40 

salt codfish 46 

Canadian pea 36 

consomme . .-.41 

green corn 33 

cream celery 33 

cucumber 34 

duchess 41 

Qcnr 41 

every day 41 

.fish 46 

Flemish 34 

Florence 42 

game 42 

gumbo 34 

hotch=potch 42 

Italian 34 

Julienne 35 

macaroni 37 

meat broth 42 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



905 



SOUPS — Continued. 



Soups (Continued.) 

mock bisque 35 

mock turtle 38, 44 

mullagatawny 43 

mushroom 35 

mutton broth 43 

noodle 35 

okra 34 

onion 36 

oxtail 43 

oyster 47 

Palestine 36 

pea 36 

potato 37 

pumpkin 36 



Soups (Continued.) 

rabbit 44 

rice 37 

sago 37 

semolina 37 

Spanish 47 

tapioca 37 

tomato 37, 38 

turkey 44 

veal 45 

vegetable marrow 38 

vermicelli 37 

Victoria 38 

white 39 



TABLES. 



Nutriment in foods 7 to 10 

Table of proportions 17 



Time for cooking 14 to 16 

Weights and measures. .11 to 13 



THE TABLE AND ITS APPOINTMENTS. 



Breakfast table 655 

Breakfast, serving of 657 

Dinner 649 

Dinner, serving of 653 



Dinner table, setting of 649 

Plans of Set Tables': . 650 to 656 

Napkins, folding of 663 to 669 

Table decorations 659 to 663 



TIMES WHEN FOODS ARE IN SEASON. 

Different foods 604 to 606 | In season by months . 607 to 610 

VEGETABLES. 



How to boil 217, 219 

Odor of boiling, to overcome 218 
Principles involved in boil- 
ing 218 

Time to boil 218 

To restore their freshness . . . 220 

Washing of 219 

Water, effects of different 

kinds 219 

Artichokes, 4 recipes. . . 220, 221 
Asparagus, 4 reciijes. . .221, 222 

Beans, 5 recipes 222, 223 

Beets, 3 recipes 223, 224 

Brocoli 226 

Brussels sprouts, 2 recipes . . 224 



Cabbage, 5 recipes 224, 225 

Cardoon, the 221 

Carrots, 2 recijies 227 

Cauliflower, 2 recijDes.. .... .226 

Celery 227,228 

Colcannon 225 

Corn, 10 recipes 228, 229 

Cucumbers, 3 recipes 230 

Egg plant : 231 

Endive 231 

Greens 231 

Greens, beet 224 

Kohlrabi 232 

Lettuce, 2 recipes 232, 233 

Macaroni, 5 recipes 233 



906 



INDEX TO COOKERY DEPARTMENT 



VEGETABLES— Continued. 



Mushrooms 234 to 236 

Okra 236 

Onions, 6 recipes 237. 238 

odor of, to overcome 237 

to peel 237 

Spanish 238 

Parsley 240 

fried 634 

Parsnips, 4 recipes 238, 239 

Peas 239, 240 

Potatoes, a la maitre d'hotel . 244 

and eggs 244 

baked 242 

balls 242 

boiled 241 

Boston chii3s 243 

broiled 242 

cake 242 

creamed 243 

escalloped 243 

fried 244 

frozen 241 

Lyonnaise 244 

mashed 244 

pufiP 245 

quirled 245 

salted 245 

Saratoga 243 

solanine, in 246 

stew 245 

stuffed 245 

turnovers 245 

warmed in gravy 244 



Potatoes (Continued.) 

warmed over 246 

with cheese 243 

Pulses, the 223 

Pumpkins 247 

Radishes 249 

Rice, 4 recipes 248 

Salsify, 3 recipes 249 

Sauerkrout 250 

Sea=kale 249 

Scotch=kale 249 

Spaghetti 233 

Spinach 250 

Squash, 4 recijaes 251 

Succotash 229 

Sweet potatoes, 6 recipes, 

246,247 

Tomatoes and cream 252 

baked 251 

canned 253 

croutes 252 

escalloped 252 

fried 253 

raw 252 

salted 253 

stewed 253 

stuffed 251 

toast 253 

with macaroni 253 

Turnips, 3 recipes 254 

Vermicelli 233 

Yams, 2 recipes 254, 255 



VINEGAR. 



Vinegars 550 to 553 

Aromatic vinegar 553 

Flavored vinegar 109, 110 



Mother of vinegar 550 

Spiced vinegar 553 

To make, 16 recipes . . 551 to 553 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. 



/^CCOUNT book, keepin<r 

i*4- of .675 

/^^ Acetic acid 829 

Acid stains 830 

Acid, test for 691 

Air, hints abont 708, 704 

Alabaster 735 

Albumen 20 

Albumeji, stains from 830 

Alcohol 829 

Alizarine stains 830 

Alkaline stains 830 

Alkali, test for 691 

Allspice 355 

Alum 846 

Alum water, to make 855 

Aluminum 673, 749 

Altering recipes 18 

Amber, hints about 731 

Ammonia, uses of, etc 829 

Aniline stains 830 

Anthrenus varins 849 

Ants, to exterminate . . . 848, 849 

Arrowroot, origin, etc 585 

Arsenic in wall paper 809 

Aspic jelly 98 

BACTERIA 518 
Bain=marie 115 
Baking dishes, care of 681 

Baking powder 265 

Barding 122 

Barrel, garbage 686 

Barrels, to clean 816 

Baseboards, painting of 720 

Basil, the 23 

Baths, care of 726, 727 

Bay, the 45 

Beans, weevils in 854 

Beaver 826 

Bedbugs 849 

Beds, hints about. . . .700 to 702 



Bedroom, the, hints about.. 700 

Bed ticks, to clean 873 

Beer, stains from 831 

Bees 849 

Beetles 850 

Benzine 829 

Benzine collas 829 

Benzole 829 

Bisuliahide of carbon . . 849, 854 

Bites of insects 850 

Blacking, for shoes, etc. 812, 814 

Blacking, for stoves 760 

Black reviver 837 

Bleaching 824, 861, 874 

Bleaching powder 706 

Blood, stains from 831 

Bluing, for clothes 860, 8(U 

Blue vitriol 708 

Board floors 711, 712 

Boiled dinner 134 

Bone, hints about 731, 732 

Bonnets, hints about . . . 824, 825 

Books, hints about 805, 806 

Boots, care of 812 to 814 

Borax 846 

Bottles, hints about .... 744, 745 

Brackets, to clean 752 

Braising 120 

Brass and copper for cooking 673 
Brass, hints about . . . 749 to 751 

Brawn 148 

Brioches . . 275 

Bristle tail 850 

Brittania metal 751 

Bronze, hints aliout 751 

Brooms, care of 676 

Brownstone ....:. 735 

Buckskin gloves 823 

Buffalo moth 851 

Bullock^s gall 717,830 

Burning buildings 763 

Burners, lamj) 747 



907 



908 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 



Burnett's disinfectine: Huid . .707 



r^ABBAGE worms 

lA Cake tins, care of . . . , 

^^ Calcimine 

Candles, hints about , 

Candlesticks, care of 

Cannelons 

Capers 

Capsicum, the , 

Carafes , 

Caramel 31, 2G3, 317, 

Caramel, prej^ared 

Caramel syrup 

Carbolic acid 

Carbonic acid gas in wells . . 

Carbonic acid, test for 

Carpet^beetle, the 

Carpets 71G to 

acids on 

beating of 

cleaning of 717, 

grease on 



gum on 

ink on, to remove . . . 

insects in 

laying of 

oil on 

paint on 

soot, to remove 

spots on 

stair 

sugar on, to remove , 

sweejjing of 

varnish on , 



wax on 

whitewash on 

Cashmere 

Casks, to clean 

Cassava 

Catch basins, care of 

Caterpillars 

Caviar 

Ceilings, smoked 

Cellars, care of 

Cellar windows 

Celery, to fringe . . 

Celluloid . . . . ; 

Cements,various kinds 837 to 
Chair seats, cane 



850 
681 
.767 
749 
749 
.345 
.100 
537 
743 
450 
393 
,317 
705 
688 
691 
851 
720 
719 
716 
718 
718 
719 
718 
720 
719 
.719 
719 
718 
.719 
.719 
718 
716 
719 
.719 
.719 
872 
815 
.385 
684 
850 
60 
.748 
684 
685 
204 
.732 
840 
724 



Chamois skin 811, 812 

Chandeliers 752 

Charcoal 706,846 

Chemical heater 763 

Chenille, to clean 873 

Chervil 208 

Chicory 207, 562 

Chimneys, hints about. 763, 764 

China, hints about 743 

Chinchilla 827 

Chintz 724, 823 

Chive, the 24 

Chloride of lead 709 

Chloride of lime 685, 706 

Chloride of zinc 707 

Chloroform 829 

Chocolate stains 831 

Choke damp 688 

Chromos, hints about 802 

Cider casks 815 

Cinnamon 348 

Cisterns, hints about 689 

Citric acid 829 

Cleaning compounds . . .836, 837 

Clinkers in stoves 761 

Cloth, hints about. . .818 to 822 
Clothing, hints about 818 to 822 

Clothing, men's 820 

Clothes wringers 861 

Clove, the . . '. 98 

Coat collars, to clean 874 

Coblers 309 

Cockroaches 851 

Coffeepots 682 

Cotfee, stains from 831 

Coins, to clean 752 

Collars, coat, to clean 874 

Collops, Scotch 182 

Colors, injured, to restore 

828, 829 

Colors, to set 874 

Compotes 485 to 487 

Condiments 97 

Condy's fluid 707 

Cooking in high altitudes .. 358 

Copperas 708 

Copper, to clean 751, 752 

Copying paper 845 

Coral 759 

Corks, hints about 745 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 



909 



Cornices, gilt, to clean 810 

Corn=starch 326 

Corrosive sublimate 707 

Cottolene 119 

Cotosuet 119 

Crape, hints about 872 

Cream, mock whipijed 360 

Cream of tartar 350 

Cream, substitute for 317 

Crickets 852 

Crockery, ornamented 746 

Croton l3ugs 851 

Croutons 29 

Cruets.. ......744 

Cups, discolored 743 

Curry powder 108 

Curtains, to clean, etc . . 869, 870 

VriATES, to xarepare for 

1^1 cooking 349 

^^■^ Daubing 122 

Death watch 852 

Decanters 743, 744 

Deodorizers 710 

Dextrin 263,289, 578 

Diamonds, to clean 759 

Dishwashing 676 to 678 

Disinfectants ... 704 to 710, 847 

Doors, hints about 695 

Door plates, to clean . . . 695, 752 

Doree 300 

Double boiler, the 673 

Drain pipe, care of 683 

Drawers 727 

Dressers, wooden, to clean. .675 

Dress mending 822 

Dust, stains from 831 

Dusting, hints about 699 

Dyes, vegetable, stains of . . . 835 

MARTHENWAEE.743, 746 
Earwigs 852 
Ebonized floors 715 

Ebonizing wood 715, 731 

Ebony 729 

Egg, yolk of 830 

Elderberry, the 545 

Egg and Breaderumbing. . .122 

Emeralds, to clean 759 

Emery, flour of 847 

Enameling floors 715 



Enamels for shirts 864 

Endive 207 

Engravings, hints about 803, 804 

Ermine..". 827 

Eschalot, the 24 

Escarole 207 

Ether 829 

Exterminators for insects . . . 855 

rAGGOTS 166 

Fats and oils 117 

^^ Fat, to clarify 117, 118, 338 
Feathers, hints about 816 to 818 

Felt hats 825 

Fenders 761 

Fennel, the 102 

Fetticus 208 

Files, to clean 754 

Filter, to make 692 

Fires, hints about 762, 763 

Fire kindlers 763 

Fire grenades 763 

Fireproof solution 763 

Flannels, to wash 864, 869 

Flatirons 863 

Fleas 852 

Flies, to exterminate 852 

Floors,wood,hintsabout711to716 

cleaning wood 711, 712 

> cracks in, to stop 713 

ebonized 715 

enameled 715 

grease on 712 

hall 715 

ink on 712 

musty 712 

oil on 712 

oiled 715 

paint for 715 

joolished 714 

sand for 711 

sawdust for cleaning 713- 

sizing for 715 

soap for . . . . ^ 711 

soot on 713 

stains for 714 

stained 713 

stains on 711, 712 

tiled 723 

to keep ground dry 716 



910 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 



Floors, varnish for 714 

waxed 713 

whitewash on 712 

Flour, pastry 347 

Flour, to brown ^ 127 

Fly=paper, to make 853 

Fondant 451 

Fondue 200 

Forks, care of, etc 678, 679 

Forcemeat 29 

Frames, for pictures . . . 802, 803 

Freezing mixtures 687 

French polish 728, 730 

Fruit, stains of 831 

Fruit trees, insects in 855 

Frying=I)ans, care of . . . 680, 681 

Furnace pipes .762 

Fur, hints about 826 to 828 

Furniture 723 to 728 

bruises in 727 

cane chair seats 724 

care of 723 

chintz on 724 

chips broken fiom 727 

dark stains on 725 

dull, to restore 724 

dusting of 724 

ebonized 725 

filling for 727 

finger marks on 725 

hair cloth on 724 

ink stains on 726 

insects in 727 

leather chair seats 724 

mahogany 725, 726 

moths in 724 

oiled walnut 725 

polishes for 728 

rosewood 726 

satin 724 

scratched 724 

scratches on 726, 727 

silk 724 

spots on 724, 725 

upholstered 724 

willow 725 

worm eaten 727 

ALVANIZED IRON 

>,l' 754, 755 

Garbage pail, care of .686 



Garlic, the 43 

Gas fixtures 752 

Gases in meat pies 153 

Gas, sewer 684 

Gelatine 20,427 

Gelatine, stains from 832 

German silver 752 

Ghee.. 194 

Gherkins 534 

Gilded articles 753 

Gilding 300 

for silk, etc 846 

to restore 803 

Ginger 566 

Ginghams, to wash 871 

Gilt mountings 752 

Glaire 811 

Glass, hints about. . .742 to 746 

ink for 845 

stopi^ers, to remove 745 

to pulverize 746 

to cut 745 

Glassware 678, 742 to 746 

Glazing 122,633 

Globes, glass, to clean 743 

Gloves.. \ 822, 823 

Glue, stains from 832 

Glues, 7 recipes 840, 841 

Glycerine 829 

Gnats 853 

Goatskins 720 

Gold, to clean 753 

embroidery, to clean 873 

lace 753 

tarnished 758 

Grained wood, to clean 766 

Granite ware, care of 680 

Grass stains 831 

Grates, steel 761, 762 

. Gravy, stains from 832 

Grease, stains from 832 

Grebe feathers 817 

Grenades, fire 763 

Grenadine, to clean 272 

Griddles 681 

Grindstones, care of 738 

Ground floors, to keep dry . . 716 

Gum, stains from 832 

Gutta percha 839 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 



911 



SAIR, curled, to clean . . .818 
Hall floors 715 
Haiigins^s, to restore 

faded ^ 878 

Hard water, test for 691 

Hard water, to soften 691 

Harvest bugs 853 

Hats, hints about 822, 823 

Hearth rugs 721 

Heaters, chenjical 763 

Hinges, to stop creaking. . . .692 

Honey, artificial 572 

Hoods, to clean 869 

Horn, hints about 733 

to weld 840 

Horseradish, the 103 

Housecleaning 697 

Household topics 670 

Hydrochloric acid 830 

fCE, hints about 687 
Ice house 686 
Iceland moss, origin, etc. 588 

Indelible ink 843 

Ink, 20 recipes 843, 844 

stains from 832, 833 

to erase 844 

to restore faded.. 807, 808, 844 

Insect pests 848 to 856 

Insects, bites and stings of. .850 
Insects on trees, shrubs, etc. 853 
Intoxicating liquors, use of. . 18 

Irish moss, origin, etc 588 

Iron, hints about 753, 754 

Iron, test for 691 

Iron mold, stains from 833 

Iron pots 680 

Isinglass 427 

Ivorine 732 

Ivory, hints about 731, 732 

aAPAN, for tin 757 
Japanned ware 734 
Japanese cement 840 

Jasper 735 

Javelle water, to make 847 

f et jewelry 759 

Jewelry, care of 758 

'EROSENE, for wash- 
ing 858 

test for 747 



Kerosene, use of for fires . . . 763 
Kettles, hints about. . . .680, 681 

Kid boots, care of 812 

Kid gloves 822, 823 

Kitchen, the.. 671, 672 

Kitchen door, facing of 675 

Knives and forks, hints 

about 678, 679 

Kouftas 183 

Kromeskies 182 

T^ ABARRAQUE'S solu- 

14 ^^°^^ ^08 

-■-^ Lace, to wash, etc. 869, 870 

Lacquers 751, 757 

Lamp chimneys and shades. 748 

Lamps, hints about. .746 to 748 

substitute for 748 

Lamp tops, cement for 748 

Lamb's lettuce 208 

Larding 121 

Lardoons 121 

Larnande's mixture 708 

Laundry, the 857 to 874 

bed ticks, to clean 873 

bleaching 861, 874 

bluing 860,861 

button holes, a hint about 864 

cashmere, to clean 872 

chamois skin 867 

chenille, to clean 873 

chintz, to clean 873 

clothes lines 861 

clothes pins 861 

clothes wringers 861 

coat collars, to clean 874 

crape 872 

curtains, to clean 869, 870, 873 

drying clothes . . . . 861 

enamels for shirts 864 

flannel, to clean dry 869 

flannel, to shrink 865 

flannels, to wash 864 

flat=irons . . . . 863 

folding clothes 861 

ginghams, to wash 871 

gold embroidery, to clean. 873 

grenadine 872 

hangings, to restore faded 873 

hoods, to clean 869 

infants' clothing 865 



912 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 



Laundry, the, (Continned.) 

ironing 863 

kerosene for washing 858 

lace, to clean, etc 869, 870 

linen, cleaning, etc 868 

muslins, colored, to wash. 872 

nankeen, to clean 878 

plush 872 

portieres, to clean 873 

potato water, use of 867 

prints, to wash 871 

rinsing clothes 860 

sarcinets 871 

sateens 871 

satin, cleaning of . . . .867, 871 

scorches, to remove 864 

setting colors 874 

shams, to clean 869 

silks, cleaning of 866 

silk, to renovate 866 

silver embroidery, to clean 873 

soaking clothes 859 

soap bark 860 

soaps _ 859,860 

soda, hyposulphite of 860 

starching clothes 862, 863 

stockings, washing of 865 

tubs, height of... 859 

turpentine, use of 859 

veils, to clean, etc 871 

velvet, to clean 872 

velveteens 872 

washing clothes 858 

washing fluids 858 

washing powders 859 

woolens, washing of 868 

yellowed clothes 864 

Lavender, for insects. . .854, 855 

Leek, the 35 

Lemon peel, to grate 358 

Leather, hints about. . .810, 811 

ink for 845 

Lice 853 

Lightning eradicator 837 

Lightningrods 69(3 

Lights, the 166 

Lime, chloride of 685, 829 

for polishing 847 

stains from 834 

test for 691 

water, to make 847 



Linen, cleaning of, etc 868 

Linoleum 722 

Liquors, intoxicating 18 

Locks 695 

Lubricator, a 846 

Luminous paints 766 

Lye, stains from 83 

TTfiir ACE 30 

Vm Macedoines 442 

-•^ A^ Mackintoshes 739 

Magnesia, test for 691 

Mahogany, hints about 725, 726 
Manuscripts, illegible, to re- 
store ' 807 

Maple tree 672 

Marble, hints about.. 735 to 737 

Marinade 54 

Marinate, to 204 

Marine shells 733 

Marjoran, the 108 

Matches, hints about. . .748, 749 

Mats 720 

Mattings, hints about . . 722, 723 
Mercurial ointment, stains 

of 834 

Mercuric chloride 707 

Mercury, effect of on metals. 756 

Mercury, perchloride of 707 

Meringue 300 

Metals and metalware 749 to 759 
Mezzotints, hints about 803, 804 

Mice, to get rid of 855 

Microbes 518 

Mildew 868 

stains from 834 

Milk, stains from 834 

Mint, the 104 

Mirrors, hints about 742 

Molasses 347, 351 

stains from 834 

Mold 490 

stains from 833 

Monks beard 207 

Morocco leather 810 

Mosquitoes 853 

Mother of pearl 733 

Moths 853, 854 

Mousse 443 

Mucilage, 5 recijjes 841 

Mud, stains from . , 834 



SUPPLEMENTAEY INDEX 



913 



Muriatic acid 350, 830 

Muslins, to wash 872 

Mustard 105 

T-\AILS, hints about 730 

\\J Nail holes, to fill 740 

-■^A Nankeen, to clean 873 

Nasturtium, the 537 

Nettle stings 850 

Newspapers, uses of 848 

Nickel, to clean 755, 761 

Nitrate of silver stains 834 

Noise, to deaden 730 

Nutmeg, the 412 

Nut shells, stains of 832 

0DORS, disagreeable, to 
emove.. 681 
Oilcloths, care of 721 

Oiled silk 821 

Oils 117 

Oil, anti=corrosive 848 

to keep 848 

to unite with water 848 

stains from 832, 834 

Oleomargarine 194 

Osmazome 21 

Ossein 21 

Ostrich feathers 816, 817 

Oxalic acid 830 

Ox=gall 830 

FAILS, hints about 815 
Paint, hints about 
, 764 to 766 

Paint brushes 766 

Paintings, care of 801 to 803 

Paint, stains from 835 

Pans, care of 681 

Pantry, care of 675 

Paper, cojjying 845 

hints about 806 to 808 

stains on 806, 807 

Paper, wall 808 to 810 

Parasols . . . • 826 

Parchment 807, 808 

Parian china 743 

Pasteboard, to make water- 
proof 807 

Pastry bowl, care of 681 

Pastes, 7 recipes 842 

58 



Patent leather 811, 812 

Peach stains 835 

Pearl, mother of 733 

Pearls, care of 758, 759 

Pectose 489 

Pepper, origin, etc 592 

Peppermint 459 

Permanganate of potassium. 707 
Perspiration, stains from . . . 835 

Pewter 755 

Phene 829 

Pianos, care of 727, 728 

Pictures, care of 801 

Picture frames, hints about 

802, 803 

Pie plates, care of 681 

Pilaff 179 

Pilau 601 

Pipes, flushing of 683 

hints about 693, 694 

to detect leaks in 684 

Piping 397 

Pitch, stains from 835 

Plaster casts 734 

Plaster of Paris 734, 735 

Plaster, to mend holes in . . . 810 

Plate powder 758 

Plated ware, hints about, 755, 756 

Pluck, the 166 

Plush, to clean 872 

to restore 822 

Polishing materials 758, 847 

Porcelain, hints about 743 

Porphyry 735 

Potato water, for washing . . .867 

Portieres, to clean 873 

Pots, iron, care of 680 

Powder, for stamxaing 845 

Preserve jars 743 

Prints, to wash 871 

Privies, to disinfect 709 

Pumps, hints about 693 - 

Punch stains 835 

lUENELLES 29 

^' Quicksilver, effect of 

on metals 756 

lAISINE 484 

Rainwater, to clarify. 691 
Raisins 310 



914 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 



Ragout 116 

Range, the 674 

Rats, to get rid of 855 

Refrigerators, care of . . .(582, 683 

Rennet 11)8, 410 

Ribbons, care of 820 

Rice 248 

Rice cement 840 

Rocambole, the 24 

Roofs, hints about 694 

Rope 740 

Rottenstone 847 

Roux 97 

Rubber, hints about. . ..738, 739 

Rugs 720, 721 

Rumford, Count 20 

Russia iron 753 

Rust, stains from 833, 834 

fAGE, the 182 
Sago 424 
Salamander 674 

Saleratus 350 

Salmis 176 

Sahsoda 350 

Salt, for disinfecting 847 

Salts of lemon 830 

Salts of sorrel 830 

Sap pans, lime in 751 

Sandstone 737 

Sanitas 707 

Sarcinets, to clean 871 

Sarsaparilla 572 

Sateens, to clean 871 

Satin, cleaning of 867, 871 

Satin, etc., gild for 846 

Satin shoes, to clean 812 

Sauce ]Dan, care of 681 

Sauce, stains from 835 

Sauteing 119,121 

Sawdust for floors 713 

Scale pans, to clean 750 

Scorches, to remove .... 835, 864 

Scouring balls 837 

Screws, hints about 730 

Sealing wax, stains from 835 

Sealing wax, to make 843 

Sealskins 827 

Setting colors 874 

Sewer gas 684, 704 

Shallot, the 24 



Shawls, to clean 869 

Sheepskin rugs 720 

Shells, marine 733 

Shells, nut, stains of 832 

Shelves, wooden, to clean . . . 675 

Shoes, care of 812 to 814 

Shoe dressing 814 

Shoemaker's wax 843 

Shoestrings, to tie 818 

Sieves, care of 681 

Silk hats 825 

Silk, oiled, to prepare 821 

Silks, cleaning of 866, 867 

Silver embroidery, to clean . .873 

Silver fish 850 

Silver lace 753 

Silver, nitrate, stains of 834 

Silver, to mark with black . . 845 
Silverware, hints about. 755, 756 

Sinks, care of 683 

Sizing 715,824 

Skins, to tan small 811 

Slate 737 

Slops, emptying of 702 

Slugs 854 

Snails 854 

Soap bark 860 

Soaps 859, 860 

Soapstone 737 

Soapstone griddles 681 

Soda 350 

chlorinated 708 

hyposulphite of 860 

washing 847 

Soft soap 859, 860 

Solanine 246 

Soldering fluid 757 

Sorrel, the 37 

Sound, to deaden 730 

Soup, stains from 835 

Sour, common 846 

Spaghetti 233, 234 

Spectacles, care of 746 

Spermaceti, stains from. . . .835 

Spices 97 

Spirit of salt 830 

Spirits of wine 830 

Sponges, hints about 739 

Spoons, wooden 815 

Spots and Stains, to remove 
828 to 837 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 



915 



Squeaking of shoes, to stojp . 814 

Stains for floors 714 

Stains, to remove . . . , 828 to 837 

Stair carpets 719 

Stamping powder 845 

Starch, cooking of 826 

Starch, for clothes. . . .862, 863 

Stearine, stains from 835 

Steel, hints about 753, 754 

Steel pens, to preserve 844 

Stencil ink 844 

Stings of insects 850 

Stone 737 

Stoneware 746 

Stoppers, glass, to remove . . 745 

Storeroom, care of 67() 

Stoves, hints about . . 759 to 762 

Stovepipes 762 

Stovepolish 760 

Stove urn, the 761 

Straw goods, to bleach, etc. 

.....824, 825 

Sublimate, corrosive 707 

Sugar, stains from 835 

use of in cooking 477 

Sulphate of copper 708 

Suli^hate of iron 708 

Sulphate of zinc 708 

Sulphurous acid gas 708 

Swansdown 816 

Swords, to clean 754 

YJYABLES, wooden, to 

A I L clean 675 

^ Tallow, to clarify.... 175 

Tanning small skins 811 

Tannin, stains of 832 

Tapioca 335 

Tar, stains from 835 

Tarragon, the 110 

Tartaric acid 829 

Teakettle, care of 681 

Tea leaves, uses of 848 

Teapot, care of 682 

Tea, stains from 835 

Theine 556 

Thermometers, use of 123 

Thyme, the 38 

Thymol 708 

Tiled floors 723 



Tiles, care of 738 

Tin ware, hints about. .756, 757 

Tobacco pipes 740 

Tonka beans 358 

Tortoiseshell 733 

Trichina 144 

Tripoli 847 

Tubs, hints about 815 

Tumblers, to clean 743 

Turpentine 830 

for washing 859 

T-fMBRELLAS, care of . .826 
I >- 1 Urine, stains from . . . 835 
^~^ Useful articles, a few . 846 

3^ANILLA 357 

Xi^ Varnish brushes 767 

^ Varnish, hints about. 767 

Varnish, for floors 714 

for straw goods 825 

incombustible 815 

scratches in 727 

Veils, to clean, etc 871 

Vegetable marrow, the 38 

Vegetole 119 

Vellum 808 

Velvet, to clean 872 

to restore crushed 822 

Velveteens 872 

Ventilation, hints about .... 702 

Vermicelli 233, 234 

Vinegar cruets 744 

Vinegar, stains from 836 

Violins, cleaning of 728 

Violin bows 728 

Vitriol, white and blue 708 

Ts^AFERS 273 

fli/^iyfe Wagon grease, stains 

^^ from." 832 

Walks, hints about 696 

Walls, hints about 695 

Wall paper 808 to 810 

Walnut stains .. .- 836 

Washing fluids 858, 859 

Washing powders 859 

Washing soda 847 

Wasps 854 

Water, hints about. .690 to 693 
absorbing power of 692 



916 



SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 



Water, effect of on vegetables 219 

filtering of 692 

for cooking 691 

stagnant, to purify 692 

tests for 690, 691 

to clarify 691 

to keep cool 692 

to soften hard 691 

Waxed floors 713 

Wax, stains from 836 

Wells, hints about. .. .688, 689 

gas in 688 

Weevils 854 

Whalebones 740 

Wheat, entire 267 

Whiting for polishing 847 

Whitewash stains 836 

Whitewash, to make .768 

Wicks, lamp, care of 747 

Williams, Mattieu 216 

Willow furniture 725 

Willow ware, to bleach 725 

Windows, hints about 741 

Wine, spirits of 830 

Wine, stains from 836 



Wire table ware 757 

Wood, hints aboot 729, 730 

polishes for 730 

stains for 729 

to ebonize 729 

to fill cracks in 730 

to harden 730 

to make it fireproof 730 

Woodenware, hints about 

814 to 816 

Woods, cleaning of 766 

Woolen goods, cleaning of 

868, 869 

Wringers, clothes 861 

Wringing machine rollers . . 738 
Writing,'to restore faded 807, 808 

¥ARDS, to disinfect.... 709 
Yeast 263 to 265 
Yorkshire pudding. ..132 

7^ ANTE currants 340 

e/f Zest 358 

-^-^ Zinc, to clean 758 

Zinc, ink for 845 



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